Portugal

Six word Saturday

An escape from all the madness

So many images I’ve yet to share with you from my April trip to Tavira! I’m returning, for another week, on Wednesday. Beautiful though Britain is, I can’t pretend it won’t be a relief to escape for a little while. Even grey days over there are greeted with a sunny smile and a wave.

It will be hot, so there won’t be much walking, but almost certainly a little toe dabbling, and lazily watching clouds gather on the horizon.

Early mornings and long warm evenings will be the best times, when I can look out on the world at peace, or enjoy a little quiet companionship.

I will still be walking with you on Monday, but I haven’t decided where yet. Then I’ll quietly disappear. Maybe it will all make sense when I return.

Do enjoy your weekend. I’m off to zumba, as soon as I’ve checked in on Cate. Share your six words?

Jo’s Monday walk: Mertola

In a week or so of very mixed weather, we drove north from the Algarve in radiant sunshine. I was certain that luck would desert us as we crossed the border into the Alentejo. For a little while hazy clouds veiled the sun, but then Mertola was displayed in all her glory.

If ever you want to step back into Portugal’s Moorish past, this is a fine place to do it. I don’t intend to do a lot of talking, partly because I don’t have the time, but also because these cobbled streets cast their own magic. All you really need to do is follow.

Your first sight of the town, as you cross the bridge over Ribeira de Oeiras, is the castelo perched high above you. It’s enough to whet your appetite. There is parking on Estrada de Circunvalacao and from there Alves Redol leads quietly upwards, until you reach the viewing point in the photo above. Below, tables are laid at a riverside restaurant and the Guadiana squirms away into the distance.

On Largo Vasco da Gama, the blue and white of ‘Casa Guadiana’ is tucked into a corner where you melt in summer. Needing to stretch our legs first, we pass by the tiny Mercado and the Tourist Information centre. (where you can acquire a town map) A remarkable walled street invites you to follow it’s contours. Could you decline?

The doors, balconies and mysterious chimneys captivate. Each one a story in itself. I stop to watch a lady shaking and pegging out a tablecloth. And then there’s the beautiful clock tower, Torre do Relogio. Alluring, isn’t it?

Rua Combatentes da Grande Guerra follows the river. Just another clue to the turbulent history reenacted here, in this serene and peaceful setting.

I’ve passed by the Camara Municipal, with its stylish red balconies. Red and ochre compliment the white so well, the shabby blending well with the chique. Turning up Rua Dr. Antonio Jose de Almeida, I am but following my nose, not sure where to look next.

The decision is made for me when I spot this playful graffiti on a peeling wall. Isn’t it beautiful? And on the other side of the narrow street, an elegant vermilion door, with a single flower tucked into the window. Never forget to look up too! Overhead, ornate drain pipes open mouths wide.

Intent on the lovely distractions, almost without realising it you’ve climbed up to the castle walls and are looking down on the Oeiras tributary of the River Guadiana. Time to inject a little history as we approach the castelo and the lovely Igreja Matriz. The Mother Church began life back in the 8th century as a mosque. In 1238, Christian knights conquered the town, led by Santiago ‘Mata Mouros’.(the Moor killer) The Koran was replaced by the Bible, and the mosque converted to Nossa Senhora da Assuncao. A keep was added to the castle, but the church retains its ‘mihrab’ (prayer niche) to this day.

New pathways and landscaped gardens have been added since I was here last, and a huge project is ongoing to excavate the ruins of the town and elaborate mosaics. In May every odd year a Moorish festival takes place in Mertola. I must ensure to attend in 2017 to inspect progress.

I peered with interest at the ruins and promised myself to find the site online when I got home. Here it is. For us it was time to head back down, past Igreja Matriz, and search out somewhere to relax. Ever alert, my other half had noted a cafe at the back of the small Mercado. ‘Cafetaria Manu’ has a tiny terrace overlooking the Guadiana, and you can buy cake or a simple sandwich to accompany an excellent glass of wine.

From the eastern end of the Algarve, Mertola is easily reached on the virtually traffic free IC27, which leads north from Castro Marim. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit, and hope that you did too.

This is a scheduled post and I won’t actually be home until Thursday, so I apologise if my responses are a little scanty at first. I didn’t want to leave the gap between walks for too long, and needed to write this while it was fresh in my memory. Thank you all for your lovely company and support. I only have a few shares this week but I’m hoping you’ve been saving them for my return.

As usual, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.

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I’m starting with a lovely man in Hamburg and an unusual look at life – thanks, Tobias!

U3: Landungsbrucken- St. Pauli

A head for heights will help but is not essential to accompany Anabel, but money could be!

Toronto: an island walk

And Jackie tells me that Chinatown is great for food :

Spadina St

Geoff’s rambling again! I think we should humour him, don’t you?

K is for Kensington and Khelsea #atozchallenge

This next is a bike ride so I’m afraid you’ll have to jog to keep up with Kathrin!

My weekly ramble

Hope this finds you happy and well. I’ll be back in person soon. Roving temporarily suspended….

Spring balls

Mimosa vibrates

With colour, to lift the gloom.

Small beacons of bright.

For years I’ve admired these small balls of Spring fuzz in the Algarve, not knowing what they were. I guess the knowledge is worth a celebratory haiku. Gilly is feeling rather sad this week, so I hope this might cheer her up.

I don’t know how much laptop time I’ll have this weekend, as I’m eagerly anticipating the arrival of my daughter. I’ll be around if I can, but in case I miss you, I wish you all a peaceful and happy Easter.

Drama on the streets

I”m so pleased to see that the subject of this week’s Thursday’s Special is Urban Art. Wandering through the back streets of Faro a few weeks ago, I came upon this down-at-heel, ramshackle building. It stopped me in my tracks. I’ve been wanting to share it ever since.

It’s a total jewel, transforming the corner of a drab street. I hope Paula likes it. I love a bit of drama. Don’t you?

Six word Saturday

An explosion of colour and fun

After flirting with Monochrome this week, I though it time to inject a little colour into our lives. It seems ages since I waved and cheered with the crowd as the Carnival floats passed me by in Loule, but it’s only a couple of weeks. After 110 years of celebrating the event, this Algarve town really knows how to party. Can you shimmy? Or make like a pirate? Or maybe, be a mermaid?

Whatever you choose, you need to be good with paper flowers, and happy to smile and wave for three hours. That’s a lot of waving!

There’s always a Pierrot, and lots of dancing girls. The children are spellbound; many of them in costume and eager to be a part of it all.

There’s a large political element to the whole festival. The Portuguese love an opportunity to have a ‘dig’ at their politicans and celebrities. They have a valid point because money is very hard-earned in this country. But this is a time of celebration and it’s all done in a wonderful, family oriented spirit. And, of course, there are a few jiggling ladies for the dads.

The pirate theme is highly appropriate. Most people would agree that politicians rob and plunder. And if all else fails, there’s always Pinocchio.

I hope you enjoyed your trip to this year’s Carnival with me. Next year, maybe come along and we’ll party?

Meantime, it’s the weekend again. Hoping you’ll have a good one. Don’t forget to pop in on Cate at Six Word Saturday. And save some energy to come walking with me on Monday!

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha da Pena

Some walks are a really hard act to follow. After last week’s Almond Blossom Trail, in blissful sunshine, I was really looking forward to taking you to the heights of Rocha da Pena. I envisioned the landscape, dropping away below me, and my eyes gazing far out to sea. Unfortunately, the dismal cloud wrapped around the rock had other ideas. Every day in the Algarve cannot be paradise, can it? But what I can offer you is good company, some wonderful plant species, and… oh, yes- cake! What’s a little drizzle between friends?

The drive out into the Algarve countryside is beautiful in itself. A little challenging, and you do have to like hairpin bends. This is another walk that features in the Walking Trails in the Algarve, (p.72) and once you arrive the signage is good. The walk begins beside a cafe, Bar das Grutas, and a strong coffee is just the thing to set you up. Don’t expect a smile from the proprietor, however. Or maybe it was just the weather! Taking a look at those clouds, I think we’d better get going!

It’s uphill, of course, but not too steep, and there’s plenty to hold your interest. Plants nestle in unsuspected places. I’m walking with a group and every now and then a voice sings out ‘don’t miss this one!’ I’m being teased a little, but I like it. The challenge is to keep up with the group, yet still record my individual delights.

There are a few signboards, pointing out things of interest, and I’m reminded of the fires that swept this mountain range, soon after we’d bought our Algarve home. Driving along the coast, or even down on the beach, a black pall of smoke could be seen on the horizon. It must have been terrifying to be up here, as the fires raged for 4 days, in 2004. Hard to imagine on this moist day, when so much has renewed and revitalised.

I’m soon on the hunt for the wild bee orchids which, I discover, like this predominantly calcareous outcrop. I can’t be cross with the weather when I learn that late January/early February is the perfect time to see them, rain or shine. The plateau rises to a height of 479 metres at Talefe, which roughly translates as ‘trig point’. All this richness and diversity has led to the Rocha being a ‘Special Protected Area’, by law.

The boards also refer to narcissus calcicola, which I take to be a simple daffodil. I’m wildly excited when I come upon a carpet of these tiny beauties, so much smaller than any I have seen before. I think I probably have more than one variety here.

Up on the heights, with the daffodils, lie the remains of a defensive stone wall, believed to date back to the Iron Age. It’s been attributed to Celtic people who lived on the Iberian peninsula in pre-Roman times. (6th-1st century BC)

There are caves you can explore, currently inhabited by two locally endangered species of bat. The largest cave, known as ‘Moor’s Grotto’, was used as a final desperate refuge in the 13th century, according to legend. The Almohad Moors tried to hide there, before being slain by the Portuguese troops of King Afonso III.

After a speck or two of drizzle, a tantalising glimpse of hazy sunlight appears in the distance, as we drop back down the trail. I look wistfully towards the open door of an unlikely ‘Mini Museum’ in the village of Penina, quietly going about it’s business. But my walking friends have lunch firmly in mind. No loitering allowed! I guess I’ll have to come back, on a sunnier day, and perhaps do the walk in reverse.

If you’re thinking you’ve seen that door before somewhere, it was one of many in Life is full of choices. Within a matter of minutes we’re back to our start point, and not a moment too soon as the skies open. The Bar das Grutas supplies food, but we hop into cars and head for the village of São Romão, near São Bras de Alportel, where we have a reservation. A warm welcome awaits us at Cafe Correia. And cake, of course!

I’m including a link to an excellent website, Walk Algarve, where you will find full details of the geology, and flora and fauna to be found at Rocha da Pena, with a little more history. And now, that cake’s made me thirsty. Time to put the kettle on.

Thanks everybody for keeping me company on my walks, and for entertaining me with yours. I hope you enjoyed this one and, if you have a walk you’d like to share, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walks page. Just click on the logo above.

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I’m not a huge fan of snow but if anything could persuade me… Anabel just might :

Canadian Rockies : Lake Louise

And Colline gave it a good try! Canada definitely seems to be the place for it :

A Walk in the Snow

Come over to the ‘dark side’ with Drake? He does it beautifully!

Abandoned walk

Congratulate Jesh? She deserves it!

A Short Diversion

Me and Jackie, still singing, down Mexico way! And why wouldn’t we?

Monday walk : Guadalajara

Jaspa does go to some fascinating places! I’d really like to visit this one :

The Templar Tunnels of Acre, Israel

A little summertime warmth, Down Under, with Rosemay would be good too :

The French Connection : Bunker Bay

Geoff and his dog go bounding through the sand dunes!

Life’s a Beach#glorioussuffolk

While Snowdon Student takes a break from his studies to head for the hills again :

Relaxing by Llyn Idwal

Jude is busy getting ready to move to Cornwall, but still found time to share. That’s a friend for you!

Scrobbesbyrig/Shrewsbury : Town Trail Part 1

It looks a bit busy in Macau, for me. Anyone been there? Thanks, Lee Ann!

A stroll through the Old Town of Macau

Pauline gave me an early morning nudge this morning!

Early morning beach walk

I’m well and truly re-acclimatised to the UK again. Not sure where to take you next week, but I’m pretty sure we’ll be walking somewhere. Many thanks again, and I hope you all have a great week!

Six word Saturday

There is a season,

Turn, turn….

In Faro old town, in the Algarve, it was mating season for storks. Everywhere you looked, they were swooping through the sky, calling and shrieking to each other. The cacophony had everyone riveted to the spot, staring upwards. Try as I might, I couldn’t capture a good photo of these magnificent creatures in flight. I was always a wing beat, if not two, behind them.

Fortunately, the architecture almost compensates. Have you noticed the seasons changing? The Weekly Photo Challenge would love you to share. Me, I’ll probably be singing ‘that song’ all day!

And popping in to see Cate at Six Word Saturday, of course. Enjoy your weekend! Hope to see you on Monday, for a walk.

Jo’s Monday walk : Amendoeira (Almond) Trail

True sign of Spring, and a sight to gladden the heart- almond blossom. This is what the Algarve in February means to me, though the sky may not always be so blue. (but that’s next week’s walk) Again I’m taking you up into the hills, and you’ll need a map to follow. Our start point is the village of Cruz de Alta Mora, inland from the River Guadiana. The road dips and sways through unheard of villages. There are occasional bus stops along the way, but nary a person waiting. Does this look like an inviting place to start a walk?

I rather thought so. The sign pointed towards the village of Soalheira, and a trail led off through the welcoming carpet of false yellowhead.

You might have noticed a tendency I have to find walks with hills in them? The walking guide I was using gives an indication of the ‘ups and downs’, and I always look to see how strenuous it might become. (but then often do the walk anyway, if it’s not too long) In this case the steepest incline comes right at the end of the walk. One of the signboards in the village of Alta Mora described the trail as the way of the cabra Algarvia– the Algarvean Goat- so I shouldn’t have been at all surprised to come upon a pen full of them.

Did you spot the ruined windmill on the top of the hill? Or the ginger cat in that sparse grass? ( you can click on the photo to make it easier) I was headed upwards, but initially it wasn’t too steep. If you wanted the view from the top, that comes at a cost…

And then it’s far behind you, and you can see the next village ahead. Looking back at my photos I can see I got a little carried away on this walk, but it was quite hard not to. Aside from the blossom, I am enamoured of the wild cistus. I find this countryside almost impossible not to love.

After Caldeirao, the trail idles through the greenest of valleys, then rises somewhat surprisingly to a tarmac road. There, nestled in the landscape and unmentioned in the guide, a tiny cafe awaits. This is the point at which all thoughts of walking might well disappear out of the window. Or, more appropriately, off the enticing balcony. Laundry dangles over the valley below. The scene is only despoiled by a cacophony of compounded dogs. A puppy in the cafe garden twitches its nose at visitors, while Mum snoozes determinedly in the sun.

I know that many of you will be disappointed at the non-appearance of cake. I will humbly make amends in my next walk. For now, I need to head on to the idyllic, though partially abandoned, villages of Funchosa em Cima and de Baixo. (upper and lower)

It’s a steep climb back out of the valley and then roll down into the next, Ribeira do Beliche. I spot a donkey in a courtyard, his back firmly turned to me. I edge closer, but pause when my husband reminds me they do a wicked back kick. A shot under cover of planters will have to do!

There are river crossings to be made. A few uneven stones straddle the water, and I end up with one wet foot. No matter- it’s a warm day. Crouched by the side of the water, I spot some tiny delicate orchids. Funny how similar they are to some I’ve seen on the cliffs at home. Alas, my shots are horribly blurred, so I’ll simply tell you that next week I have a different orchid, which I found very exciting.

I cross the stream a second time, a little more successfully, and then begins that last, long slog up the hill, which leads, eventually, back to our start point. Not for the feint hearted! You don’t want to watch me, so I’ll end with a delicacy of blossom. Is it ever possible to have too much?

Phew! I have to say I’m rather tired after all that, and just have the energy to point you towards Walking Trails in the Algarve, where this walk appears, right near the end, at p. 144. Full details of how to get there are given in the guide. And now, the kettle on, I think!

Thank you all for your tolerance while I was away. I tried to keep up as best I could, but managed to miss a few of you. Amends made here, I hope. Once again I have some wonderful contributions. If you possibly can, please find the time to read them. And maybe even join me on a walk next week? Shorter, I promise! Details on Jo’s Monday walk page or the logo above.

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Drake’s timing was simply wonderful!

Hit the road

Tobias always makes such good use of his ‘props’ :

Walk on Beach

Debbie just can’t resist a shot or two on the way to work! Or anywhere, really…

Misty Walk Along the Thames

Fancy making your own Tequila? You just need blue agave plants! Cheers, Jackie!

Monday Walk : Tequila, Mexico

Amy takes us back to visit the exotic Ringling home. What a beauty!

Monday Walk : Ca’ d’Zan

The national parks in the States look larger than life, don’t they? I’d love to visit!

Arches National Park, Utah

Somewhere else I wouldn’t mind to try- Hawaii! Have a wander with Carol :

A Walk Along Front Street

Waking to snow is not my idea of fun, but in the Rockies you’d expect it, and Anabel looks pleased :

Canadian Rockies : Num-ti-jah Lodge

My daughter spent her birthday and 3rd wedding anniversary in Edinburgh, and fully endorses Smidge’s recommendations :

Edinburgh ‘must do’ : Edinburgh Castle

Gilly would like my goats, wouldn’t she? Her dogs might not be so keen :

Walking the Goat to the Bowling Green

And Jill just scraped in, in the early hours of this morning. I haven’t even had time to read it yet, but I will!

Biking the shores of Inle

I woke to snow this morning, looking oh, so pretty, outside my window. I haven’t had time to ‘enjoy’ it yet, but hopefully? Once again, my thanks to all. For those of you I saw on Saturday, Vincent and Flavia were fabulous! Have a great week, and see you soon.

Six word Saturday

Carnival, for old and young alike

As always happens, I came back from Tavira with far too many photos and far too much to do! But I couldn’t let Six word Saturday pass without a wave from the kids at this year’s Carnival. I was a little greedy this year because we were there throughout the Carnival period, which starts with a children’s parade, on the Friday before Shrove Tuesday, in most of the towns and villages.

The main event in the Algarve takes place in Loule, where this year 110 years of Carnival were celebrated. I managed to go there on the Saturday and happily rain kept away for the day. Sunday in the small town of Sao Bras de Alportel was fine and sunny. On Shrove Tuesday the weather was less kind, but I managed to catch a few shots over the tops of the umbrellas in the village of Moncarapacho. We’d been walking that morning but I was still in the mood for some samba.

No one is left out- young, old or disabled, and it doesn’t matter if you’ve money to spend or not. Long may it continue!

I have some shots of the fabulous Carnival floats, but no time to post them here. I’m off to zumba and, later today, some real excitement! I have a ticket to see Vincent Sirmione and Flavia dancing in their Last Tango show. Fans of ‘Strictly’ will know how happy that makes me.

I hope you have a great weekend and can find time to join me for a Monday walk, when I’ll be taking you to see some beautiful almond blossom.

Jo’s Monday walk : Salt marshes at Fuseta

It’s that ‘betwixt and between’, Christmas time and the New Year. The weather has been atrocious in so many places and some people will be spending it mopping up and repairing their homes. I haven’t managed too much walking lately myself, but I do still have some happy memories to share. Shall we take a little salt marsh stroll in the Eastern Algarve? Nothing too strenuous! At day’s end, we can even linger by the beach awhile.

The sky is blue, and that’s a good start! I’ve taken you to Fuseta before. It’s a little off the beaten track, but beloved by campers for the beachfront camp site. New development unkindly overshadows the distinctive fishermen’s homes. Prime location is key, after all, but the fishermen pursue their livelihood as they always did. The settlement dates back to 1572, and the fishing boats still cluster together in the mouth of the Rio Tronoco.

Approximately 10km east of Olhão, you turn off the E125 and follow the narrow road, over the railway tracks and down past the river mouth to the shore. Except in high Summer you will find ample parking beside the camp site. With the sea on your left, walk between the fishermen’s houses and the new apartment blocks facing the sea. The salt marshes open out where the road ends.

It’s a distinctive landscape, and habitat for all kinds of birds. I’ve grown to love it’s oft times, unkempt appearance when the tide is low. Spears of sunlight glinting on high water will reward my patience later. Coots bob gently on the surface, while their longer-legged friends peck, and choose.

Paths lead between the salt pans but you would be ill advised to follow any that are not obviously well trodden. Cyclists zip past, some with a smile and a wave. Looking back, houses randomly dot the marsh borders, and in the distance the new builds gleam, whitely.

You can follow the cycle track all the way to Olhao if you wish, but I did promise you a shorter walk, so I’m meandering back, on the main path across the marshes. I know of a good bench or three, where you can watch the locals play boules and still keep an eye on the sea.

You’ll be wanting a stop at the beach cafe, but I might just tempt you to a stroll along the river mouth first? You know I like a boat or two!

It’s a little ragged around the edges, but Fuseta is a real and honest place, with a working population. I hope you enjoyed accompanying me on my stroll. Shall we head back to that cafe now? I hear there’s cake!

I’ve had a great time walking with you all this year. Thank you for the support. It has been amazing! I worry sometimes that the formula is growing stale. I know that I will carry on walking and sharing, because I love it, but I would hate for you to be bored. You can say so, politely, in the comments, if you wish. I promise not to take offense. For now, I’m going to put that kettle on.

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Not many shares this week, as you’ve all been busy with Christmas! Hopefully you’ll find time to read just a few excellent ones. Many thanks to my contributors! My Jo’s Monday walk page gives details of how to join in.

Drake’s post was wonderfully Christmassy! Happy New Year to you, sir!

Walkaround

Over at Junkboat Travels they were making a proper holiday of it :

Mazatlan, Mexico

Why not visit Jaspa’s favourite city? You may be in for a surprise :

Secret Itineraries Tour, Doge’s Palace, Venice

One of my joys on Christmas morning was this precious gift from Meg. Please don’t miss it!

Eurobodalla beaches : Wasp Head

And my lovely friend Gilly proves that murky weather doesn’t have to make you miserable :

A Boxing Day stroll

Please do join me on Jo’s Monday walk next week, when I’ll be celebrating the launch of Jude’s new Garden Photography Challenge. I have a rather nice English garden to share. But first, I’d like to wish you a very happy and healthy New Year, and lots of walking!

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Portugal

Six word Saturday

An escape from all the madness

Jo’s Monday walk: Mertola

Spring balls

Drama on the streets

Six word Saturday

An explosion of colour and fun

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha da Pena

Six word Saturday

There is a season,

Turn, turn….

Jo’s Monday walk : Amendoeira (Almond) Trail

Six word Saturday

Carnival, for old and young alike

Jo’s Monday walk : Salt marshes at Fuseta

An escape from all the madness

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An explosion of colour and fun

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There is a season,

Turn, turn….

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Carnival, for old and young alike

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