Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Guadiana dreaming

Although I love a good walk I would almost never turn down a boat trip.  This one came with the option of an hour’s guided walk at our destination, Foz de Odeleite.  But it was hot and I was feeling lazy, so I declined.  Put your feet up and ride along with me?

We leave from the quayside at Vila Real de S. Antonio, at the mouth of the mighty Guadiana river.  Briefly we head towards the ocean, passing the glossy marina, while our guide relates a few facts and figures.  Midstream we turn to head up the Guadiana, with Portugal on our left hand side and Spain on the right.  Ayamonte, with its plazas and tapas bars, sits directly opposite to Vila Real.

Soon we are passing the inlet that leads to Castro Marim, with its fine duet of castles and church.  A wonderful Medieval Fair in late August usually brings the town to life, though not this year, of course.

Ahead lies the road bridge that links the Algarve with Spain, closed for a while when Covid-19 was at its peak.  A small car and passenger ferry also shuttles to and fro between Vila Real and Ayamonte.

As we approach the bridge it becomes less attractive, swaddled for protection while repairs take place.  The water is flat calm and smooth, but we are astonished at the apparently endless fleet of jellyfish streaming past us out to sea.

The first of several former customs offices maintains a sleepy vigilance on the shoreline as the gentle hills drift past us.  These hills never seem so gentle when you are on foot, but now we are at leisure to observe.  Perched high in a tree, someone spots an eagle and we crane eagerly to see it.

And then we are approaching our mooring at Foz de Odeleite.  Another boat docks ahead of us and we hover, waiting our turn.

An ugly, half constructed building has overlooked the tiny, picturesque village for as long as I can remember, and we wonder if it will ever be completed or removed.  A short walk takes us uphill to our restaurant, where we can swim or sit in shade while a few energetic people take the hour long walk.  It’s an area we have walked before and it’s much too hot to feel guilty.

I have to say here that organised trips, with entertainment, are not normally our thing, but we were a group of 8 friends, happy to be together, and we all agreed that this was a great way to spend a day.  The food was excellent and our hosts did their utmost to give us a good time.  Everyone, kitchen staff and our guide included, joined in with the singing.

We booked online with Riosultravel and were made very welcome at Quinta do Rio.  I would recommend it.  Both on board and in the restaurant it was easy to maintain social distancing.  Soon enough we returned to our boat and the journey back downstream.  The atmosphere was mellow, and singing and dancing continued for a while, till we subsided to watch the world glide by.

And then we were approaching the end of our trip, with Ayamonte on our left hand side.  Hardly any walking this week, and our dessert was a healthy chunk of melon!  Sorry to disappoint  🙂

This is as good a time as any to announce a rest from my walks.  Over the spring and summer I felt unable to discontinue.  It’s a popular feature and I wanted to stay in touch with you all.  It’s been a strange one, hasn’t it?  I will continue to walk with a small group of friends, as restrictions on numbers currently apply in Portugal, but the routes are unlikely to be new.  There is still a lot of uncertainty regarding all our futures, but I’d like the freedom to post as and when I choose.  I hope you’ll understand.

walking logo

I have a wonderful selection of walks to end with.  Please enjoy these, and thank you everybody for all your support and encouragement.

…………………………………………………………………………

I always like to introduce somebody new (to me), and this is such a beautiful part of the world.  Meet Vanessa :

Berchtesgaten, Germany/7 day itinerary for a hiking holiday in the Bavarian Alps

Also in Germany, Ulli shares a few observations on life :

Objets trouvés

It’s a while since I’ve been in Italy, and never to this lovely place :

Ostuni: la cittá bianca

Drake often prompts me to song.   ‘You must remember this, A kiss is still a kiss, A sigh is still a sigh…’ :

As time goes by

Let’s go rambling and ambling with Albert in North Korea :

Pujon Stone River and Revolutionary Site

Can we find Rupali, in the fog?

Wordless Foggy Walk

I hate grey skies!  Mutter, mutter!  But not with Margaret :

Wild-ish Walking in Wensleydale

Eunice hit the jackpot with blue skies and a lovely canal path this week :

Lancaster Canal – Garstang to Catterall

Not always the best weather but you’re spoilt for choice with Anabel.  Got a favourite?

Blairgowrie: the walks

Prickly pear are the subject of Janet’s walk.  Ouch!  🙂

Monday walk…Careful where you step!

If you ever find yourself in Belgium you could do much worse than try one of Denzil’s walks :

Three walks in Hainaut Province

And if you can’t find something to delight here, with Lynn, you’re really not trying!

Local Walks: Two Walks by the Water

The last word, from Carol, in Oz :

It’s a Sign

Don’t worry- I’ll be back, in one form or another.  This week I celebrated 9 years of blogging.  It’s addictive, isn’t it?  Take care till then!

Jo’s Monday walk : Street art spotting in Sáo Brás

Leaving the sea behind for a little while, one of my favourite roads in the Algarve is the N270.  It winds steadily up into the hills, a series of twists and turns, with glimpses of small villages in the valleys below.  As the road levels out you come to the market town of Sáo Brás de Alportel.  It’s a nice peaceful spot for a wander.  Come with me and we’ll see what we can find.

As with most traditional towns in Portugal, the streets are mainly cobbled.  Claiming a convenient patch of shade, a snowy white cat regards me solemnly with its one green and one blue eye.  Is it my imagination or does that lady on the wall look more anxious as I look back at her?

Around the corner, the entrance to the episcopal palace gardens, beyond which sparkles the municipal pool.  This lovely outdoor facility was renovated last year and I expected to see it busy on this warm summer day.  Another casualty of Covid-19, I suspect.

Much of Sáo Brás is a little dog-eared and worn, but resourceful locals have done their best to brighten the shabbiest walls.  The local tourist information office and art gallery was open and I popped in to examine current trends.  An interesting perspective on a corn field?

The town has a lovely church, the scene of devout and colourful celebrations at Easter.  The streets are decorated with a multitude of flower heads and floral torches are paraded through them to a chant of ‘Hallelujah’.  Not this year, of course, but at least they can’t take away the beautiful view.

Somebody must have had a job lot of paper swallows, because they appear on several of the artworks.  How many swallows make a summer?

But the town is not short of more conventional beauty.  The azulejos are as fine as any you will see.  This cheerful scooter picks out the lemon of the background tile rather nicely, don’t you think?

The central square had a makeover a couple of years ago, and has become home to several modern art pieces.  I was happy to find this metal family in a nearby street.  Very appropriately, wearing their masks.

Perhaps you’d like to see the town in happier times, Celebrating life at Easter.  We have to believe they’ll come again.

walking logo

Meanwhile, just a few walks to share this week, which inclines me to think I could make Jo’s Monday walk a fortnightly feature, and confuse everyone!  Today I’m going to join Sami, who shares street art every week on Monday Mural.

……………………………………………………………….

Ducks and dragonflies… I’m smitten, Janet :

Monday walk…Sweetwater Wetlands

He’s home again!  Not such a terrible place to be, Drake :

Back in town

Is anything more splendid than this?  A Cornish garden, much loved by Jude :

Herbaceous borders

While Albert goes in search of another splendid view :

Sherwood Homestead (Former) Walk via Mountain Creek Road (Plus)

Ending with Janaline in exotic Shanghai :

Monday Walk in Century Park

Wishing you all a good week, though I know life is difficult right now in many places.  Take care till next time!

Jo’s Monday walk : a sea breeze

A week or two ago I caught the very busy ferry from Olháo across to the barrier island, Culatra.  The sea was flat calm and a limpid blue and the air scarcely moved, such was the heat.  Alighting at Farol, I followed the path across the island, passing chalet houses, a couple of cafés and the lighthouse for which it is named, to the beach.

A cluster of people were relaxing there, but I was surprised at how rapidly the ferry’s full load had disappeared.  My aim was to walk along the beach, catching whatever breeze I could, until I reached the small hamlet, Culatra.  There I would have a light meal while waiting for the ferry to carry me back to the mainland.

It’s a relaxed place, and I sat watching a youngster entertaining himself by throwing hoops, beside the church.

I sat for an hour or so, and in that time the wind steadily increased.  The umbrellas began to flap and sway and, as I looked out across the water, white horses began to prance and the boats to bob wildly.  A galleon at anchor in the bay had started to unfurl her sails, but must have thought better of it, for soon they were neatly stowed away.

In 1941 catastrophic gales hit this coast, wiping out much of the lowrise property and beach huts, and rearranging the sand spits and channels of the Ria Formosa.  This is the front line, which protects the Eastern Algarve from the ferocity of the Atlantic Ocean.  It comes as no surprise that the islanders, despite seemingly carefree ways, have huge respect for the nature that surrounds them.

Each August the whole island takes part in a thanksgiving ceremony to Nossa Senhora.  Maybe you have to be fearless if you’re born here.  By the ferry departure point the next generation lounge in the sun.  Minutes earlier they had been leaping with gay abandon into the choppy waters.

For a closer look at the island, let me direct you to an older post of mine, Ilha da Culatra.  Meanwhile, there’s cake!

walking logo

Many thanks for your company again this week.  Temperatures are starting to abate a little, and gentle walks will continue for the time being.  Join me whenever you like here on Jo’s Monday walk.

…………………………………………………………………………………

Never mind the weather!  Mention food and Debs will be there!

A Borough Market wander for foodies

Come and count cacti with Janet?

Monday walk…Saguaro National Park

Alice certainly has some beautiful property on her doorstep.  Take a wander with her :

Harleston Village

Brambles or a story?  Take your pick with Susan :

Walking with a book in hand

Walking for blackberries

What is it about Drake and tractors?  Sark looks delightful :

In a way sailed back time

No traffic jam

Aseem might prefer crowds and big cities :

Photography: Daytime

But Sue has the beauty of nature right on her doorstep :

Brown Lowery Provincial Park – Calgary Day Trip Secret Gem

And Rosemay tackles the new block editor on our behalf.  Got to be worth a visit!

Torpedo Trail Yallingup

Another day, another dollar!  Well, hopefully, anyway.  Funny how Mum’s old sayings stay in your head.  Have a good week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Alcácer do Sal

We had two choices for places to stay on our anniversary.  Alcácer do Sal was somewhere we bypassed on the way to Lisbon a few years ago.  What made it remarkable and worthy of a visit was the setting, and accompanying rice fields.  Fairly uncommon in Portugal.

You’ll notice a cloud or two in the sky?  When we awoke it was positively grey and the view we’d enjoyed of the castle at Santiago do Cacém had completely disappeared in swirling mist.  By the time we’d had breakfast, gazing hopefully into the gloom, it was sprinkling the finest rain.  I smiled determinedly through an endless succession of damp cork trees as we headed north.

I sometimes wonder if I was a princess in a former life, because I have this tendency to head for castles.  And so it was, in Alcácer.  We approached on the N120, from Grandola, crossing the Rio Sado on a metal bridge, which opens to allow passage of sailing boats, before the river widens into the estuary.  Directly ahead, overlooking the tumble of streets, the castle.  And the good news- it had stopped raining!

One of us wanted to find the TI and obtain a map, for the best way to ascend.  The other wanted to follow her nose.  Any of a number of narrow streets headed upwards, and I was impatient to get there, before the castle closed for lunch at 12.30.  We dithered, and dawdled, but the TI didn’t appear to be where my 16 years old Rough Guide alleged.  No help for it but to head on up!

A straggle of streets yielded fountains, lovely old azulejo tiles and dwellings old, and not so old.  Portugal’s usual blend of colour and character.  Alcácer comes from the Arabic word for palace, Al-qasr, and in 1191 the Almohad Caliph Ya’qub Al-Mansur gave orders to build his palace.  For many years it was a stage for fights between Christians and Muslims.

Easy to see that it was a strategic position for the defence of the area, evidence of building on this site dates back to Neolithic times.  The current structure is a rare example of a military rammed earth fortress, and what remains looks extremely solid.

But, of course, it was the views down onto the town that delighted me.  Fit for a princess!

Sometimes things go to plan.  Sometimes they don’t.  It had been my intention, by way of celebrating our anniversary, to venture into the former convent, now a luxurious pousada, to quaff a glass of their finest.  But I was thwarted by a sign at the door, announcing that, due to Covid-19, only hotel guests were permitted entry.  In my annoyance I almost certainly missed a trick, because I spurned the Archaeological Crypt, which adjoins the pousada.  I’m not fond of underground excavations, but sometimes they hold vital clues to the past.  Wilful head on, I determined that a quayside café would suffice in the quest for refreshment.

Meandering back down the hill, we chanced upon the perfect little getaway, complete with pool and view.  We’ve never had the bottle and determination needed to tackle a renovation project in Portugal, but there were opportunities aplenty on this hillside.  A small dog looked back at us, cocking his leg beside one, highly likely, possibility.  Down on the quayside, we at once spotted the missing Tourist Information office, right beside the bridge we had crossed into town.  A very willing assistant eagerly pointed out the high spots of Alcácer, including, of course, the Crypt that we really shouldn’t miss.  She did, though, direct us to the fishing village at Carrasqueira.

Meanwhile, we searched for the perfect confection, but it wasn’t till much later in the day that we finally succeeded, back in Santiago do Cacém.

You could say that we searched high and low.  But he was delighted with his chocolate cake.  As was I.  It didn’t last long!

All’s well that ends well, or so they say, and we certainly had an interesting few days in the Alentejo.  Hope you enjoyed them?

walking logo

A bumper collection of walks this week!  Hopefully I haven’t missed anybody, though looking in the Reader this morning there are lots of goodies.

………………………………………………………………………………..

I keep the very best company around here, don’t I, Jude?

Another Hill, Another View

Let’s go ghost busting with Debs!  In broad daylight, so you’re all safe!

Ghostly creep around Greyfriars Cemetery

Janet cheats a bit, but very beautifully.  Why not let horses take the strain?

Monday walk… for the horses

It’s always a privilege to walk alongside Cee (and finally, she has a fridge!  🙂  )

Jo’s Monday Walk and Which Way Challenges – Swan Island Dahlia in Canby, Oregon

Meet Tina!  We’ve decided to find joy together :

Finding joy

Colline savours the last of her freedom before it’s back to school :

Walking Under the Bridge

Drake dines in the nicest places, and always with coffee :

Uphill lunch

History blows in the wind

Prepare to be dazzled!  This is purely beautiful :

Songdo: In the City of Blinding Light

Or visit the lovely Ardenne in company with Denzil :

Walking around the megaliths of Wéris

I have something to share with Tish, as well as a walk :

After the Storm: Big Skies on Wenlock Edge

 

Carob beans

From carob beans to daffodils.  Now there’s a leap for you!  Thanks, Albert :

Sherwood Homestead (Former) Walk via East-West Road

Rupali has found the perfect place to spend a day, high in the mountains :

Weekend 104: Just in time

And in Shanghai, Janaline shares a little of the earth’s laughter :

Monday Walk among the Blossoms

Whilst Ulli has found himself a small piece of heaven :

Feldberg in Mecklenburg-West Pomerania

That’s me worn out for another week!  Not sure that I’ll be walking with you next Monday, but I’ll keep you posted.  Have a good one, and take care!

Jo’s Monday walk : Miróbriga

Last week we took a look at the town of Santiago do Cacém and its lovely castelo.  With only a couple of nights away from home there was little time for putting our feet up so, having checked in to our hotel, it was hot foot to the Roman ruins of Miróbriga.

One kilometre north west of the town, it would have been an easy drive, but some people like to do things the hard way.  When we finally arrived the site did not look too imposing, but the Romans seldom got it wrong so, bypassing the small museum, we set off to explore.

Wikipedia tells me that these Roman baths are among the best preserved in Portugal, and I do have a bit of a fondness for baths.  The settlement here appears to date back to the Iron Age, the Romans occupying and extending the site from the second half of the 1st century.

I talked about mood the other day, and how some places affect you more than others.  Although this is a sizeable site, with very visible paved Roman roads and the remnants of many shops and residences, it didn’t whisper to me as these places sometimes do.  It shouldn’t have been hard to picture a toga-less Roman or two lolling at their ablutions, discussing politics and which wench they had an eye for.  But somehow I couldn’t tune in to the gossip, as I might have done at beautiful Ammaia, near Marvão.

Information boards were plentiful and specific, giving details of the hypocaust system which heated the floor of the baths.  To the east of these is a small, single arch bridge which leads to the forum and temples.  It was here, if anywhere, that I felt the weight of history, crumbling in the cracks and uneven surfaces of the crazed paving slabs.

There were not many other visitors this late in the day, and it was easy to slip into the lodging house to examine the remains of ancient wall paintings, and finally to the elevated position of the forum and Imperial temple.

I gazed in vain for the Hippodrome, the only one in Portugal whose entire ground plan is known.  It was left to me to imagine the thunder of chariots, echoing in the silent Alentejo countryside.

Can you believe that in all this long day not a morsel of cake had passed our lips?  Where’s the justice, I hear you cry!  Where’s the cake?

A small café looked across to the ruins and we rested our weary legs there, listening to a couple of locals discuss their day.  Pickings were slim, as we might have been, because it wasn’t easy to find a restaurant to accommodate us that evening.  So, I’m afraid I’m going to have to keep you dangling till next week, when Michael finally gets his chocolate cake.  But I can leave you with a fine windmill and a heap of cork, observed on our walk back to the hotel.

walking logo

Thanks everyone, for keeping me company.  Time to share a few walks.  I shall have one last for you, from the Alentejo, next week.  Feel free to join me there, on Jo’s Monday walk.

………………………………………………………………………………….

Fishing quotas can have disastrous effects, but they take Eunice on a really interesting walk :

A walk to Fleetwood wrecks

Go adventuring with Alice!

Fort Morris State Historic Site

Janet is home from the Wyoming she loves.  Lots of choices to share :

Monday walk…walk, ride or drive?

Which path will you choose?  Yvette would like to know :

Pathways – Monday Walk with Jo

Wondering how Drake’s feeling this week?

Blue mood

A walk through a very sad period in history, with Denzil :

The Reconstruction of Ypres

Sharing the beauty of this world, with Rupali :

Weekend 103: Trees and Trees

And finally, blow a few cobwebs away as we tramp across the Moors with Margaret :

A Bleak Walk is Just Perfect

Take care, all!  It’s a funny old world out there, isn’t it?

Jo’s Monday walk : Santiago do Cacém

‘Where shall we go for our anniversary, hon?’  Greeted with the usual shrug and ‘anywhere you want’.  After 31 years I know he doesn’t mean this literally, and current circumstances are such that even I hesitated to suggest anywhere too exciting.  Chicago, Japan and the Isles of Scilly passed fleetingly through my mind, before I settled on a more practical choice, the Alentejo.  Not too far, in driving terms, from our Algarve home, and much of it, for us, still uncharted territory.

The Troia peninsula, just south of Setúbal, holds great appeal, but it’s high summer and the beach hotels are expensive and likely too busy.  So, pointing my nose in that general direction, I settled on slightly obscure but potentially interesting, Santiago do Cacém.  A castle and a church, perched high on a hill.  What could be better….?  Yes, that was the spouse’s reaction when he saw the height of the hill in question.  But we started slowly, chancing upon the TI, beautifully located in gardens, and with an adjoining café.

I freely admit that I had little idea of what else there might be to see, but the gentleman in the TI was very helpful.  We had already passed signs for the Roman ruins of Miróbriga, on the outskirts of town. Time to start a gentle ascent to the castle.  There’s nothing I like better than a meander through quirky streets of crumbling houses, shored up by their smart neighbours, and with a smattering of compelling street art.

A towering pink fire station, dangling laundry, a neglected church with chorus of cherubs and Manueline doorway, a square with pelourinho (or pillory) and magnificently rusted door handles.  Not a bad haul for a couple of streets.  And the tiny courtyard with the shrine to a beloved pet.

So many distractions, I had scarcely noticed the gradient of our climb but finally we reached the Castelo de Santiago do Cacém, built by the Moors.

Originally the castle had 10 square towers and semi-cylindrical turrets, externally defended by a barbican, some of which have survived.  The ancient church of Santiago is integrated into the south east wall.  I had forgotten that the castle, abandoned in the 1700s, had become the town’s cemetery in the 19th century.  Glancing through the archway I saw the tombs and hesitated, not wanting to be disrespectful.  The palace and gardens of the Condes de Avillez adjoin the castle, and for a while I wandered in their atmospheric shade.

Then realisation dawned, and we entered the grounds of the ruined castle.

Rarely have I been in a more serene and lovely place.  I wandered among the tombstones, marveling at the details, and then climbed to the castle walls.  A solitary caretaker was busy removing and tidying, and gave us a cheery wave.

Reluctantly I made my way back through the stone archway, but there was another treat to come.  The door to the Santiago Church was ajar, and I stepped quietly inside.  A lovely young woman beamed at me and gestured that I should come in and enjoy the beautiful surrounds.

The gilded wood carvings told of hours of craftsmanship.  We exchanged smiles again, behind our masks, complicit in our appreciation.  Heading downhill, there was still a colourful surprise in store.  An art gallery, maybe?  I wasn’t sure.

I hope you enjoyed today’s wander.  We had the best view from a hotel room that I can remember in quite some time, and we made it to the top of the hill.  Next week I’ll take you to Miróbriga and the Roman ruins.

walking logo

Thanks again everyone, for the appreciation and for keeping me company on my rambles.  Not too many walks to share this week, so please find time to visit.  And if you have a walk you’d like to share, feel free!

………………………………………………………………………………………..

Gentle humour and a beautiful landscape, with a flurry of facts.  Thank you, Margaret!

In Search of a Druid or a Trout – Revisited

Do you know Lisa?  These photos are simply stunning!

Sunsets after work

It looks like life goes on as normal on Lîle de Ré, and very lovely it looks, too.  Thanks, Drake!

Forwards and backwards

Perle de l’Atlantique

Hooked on

Maybe even more serene and beautiful, Ulli shows us :

Sunny Stechlin – On the Trails of Theodor Fontane

Anabel is always hot on the trail, unless it’s raining, of course :

East Dunbartonshire: Trails + Tales

Susan is taking very mindful steps these days :

Walking small

While Rupali takes a hike, under the sun :

Weekend 102: Hiking again

Another week gone.  Halfway through an Algarve summer, where I sometimes feel the need to escape the heat.  Santiago do Cacém was rather a lovely place to do it.  Have a good week and see you next time!

Jo’s Monday walk : Castelo Velho de Alcoutim

Discarded hilltop ruins are ten a penny in Portugal.  Truth be told, I had no idea that this one even existed.  Numerous times I’ve been to Alcoutim and admired the castle, sitting solidly on its hill, protecting the town and looking out over the Guadiana River.  Little did I know that there was a predecessor, whose ruins I could still see.  Castelo Velho de Alcoutim came as a complete surprise to me.

What else does one do on a Sunday morning with the temperature climbing towards the 30s?  ”Just a short walk” was how he sold it to me.  A pleasant drive up to Alcoutim, with its lovely views across the river, and a mere 4km stroll.  No mention was made of a castle on a hill.

So we walked out of town, following signs for the PR3.  Already it was hot and I loitered whenever I came upon a scrap of shade.  Rounding a corner, a hill rose in front of me and, perched on the top, the aforementioned ruins.  I hesitate to say that I was surly, but I was!  I’m as fond of ruins as the next person, but a cooler day for them might have been nice.  Uphill was no pleasure at all, especially when the views were left behind.  While the river was in sight there was the distraction of whoops and cheers from the zipline, which stretches over from Spain.

As I grumbled to myself, Michael paused and indicated a short uphill scramble.  It didn’t look like a promising access to me but, as we hesitated, a car drew up on the stony path and a young woman stepped out.  Our timing was good, for she had come to unlock the gate, promptly at 11.00am.  Apparently the old castle is regarded as unsafe if the wind is strong.  There was almost no trace of a breeze that morning, and after walking all around the site to ensure that we were safe, she left us to explore.

It did feel a little precarious in places, but the views were superb.  It would certainly have been a good place from which to keep a lookout on Spain.  Built in the 8th-9th century, this castle was once an important Islamic military structure.  Exactly why it was abandoned in the 11th century is not known, but the younger castle was constructed in the 13th century, a kilometre away, within the town of Alcoutim.  It stands proud to this day.

As so often, the way back down was much more easily achieved.  I’m not sure that all of the zipliners felt the same way.  I was very happy to have my head back in the shade, and a magnificent view stretching before me.

I can’t remember cake, but maybe there was?  You’ll have to imagine your own.

walking logo

A few more walks to share this week.  Many thanks to all of you.  Please enjoy!

………………………………………………………………………………….

Liesbet was happy to hit the road again, with a beautiful  destination :

Getaway to the White Mountains

Fancy counting butterflies with Sharon?  Hopefully there’s still time!

Salthill Quarry Nature Reserve

I love a seaport, and these are perfect examples from Drake :

Walk back time

The sunny side

Life at the beach isn’t always peaceful, as Alice can tell you :

Tropical Storm Isaias Passes By

Been a while since I shared one of Jude’s.  This is a beauty :

Summer on the Hill

Just time to slip in a little culture from Ulli :

Gothic Lady of Naumburg

Temperatures have seldom dipped much below 30C since we did this walk a few weeks ago.  Not walking weather, I’m sure you’ll agree.  I’m taking myself off for an anniversary jaunt into the Alentejo this week (correction- he’s taking me!).  It may, or may not be cooler.  Have a good week, whatever your weather!

Jo’s Monday walk : From Bay to Beautiful Bay

You’ll be happy to know that I was properly shod for this little expedition.  Relatively speaking, of course!  But then, I wasn’t going to The end of the world.  It’s amazing how far you can actually see, round this wonderful coastline.  The cliffs seem to roll on and on.  Here I’m standing, in the fresh wind I’d been longing for, looking down on Praia do Tonel.  Ahead lies the Sagres promontory.  Behind me, a modest little pottery shop.

The commanding fortress looks out to sea in all directions.  Built in the time of Prince Henry the Navigator, its most distinctive feature is the compass rose, a giant pebble compass, 43 metres in diameter.  Within the fortress, Nossa Senhora de Graca dates from 1579, replacing the original chapel built for Henry in 1459.  He spent much of his later life here, dying in 1460.

The sea sucks greedily at the cliffs, battering its way in on the calmest of days.  It’s a place to be in awe of nature, yet fishermen cast their rods with the nonchalance of familiarity, from the most precarious nooks and crannies in the rock face.

From the solid entrance to the fortress, Rua da Fortaleza gradually dwindles into Sagres, the cobbles culminating in a timeless square, the heart of the community.  My visit coincides with an easing of restrictions related to lockdown and Covid-19.  Caution is in the air and people are sparse, yet there’s a peace and calm to this sun-soaked spot.  It’s not hard to linger here, sheltered from the wind, and indulge and daydream a little.

Reluctantly I move on.  Curving round the cliff tops, views sweep down to Praia da Mareta and across the bay.  The sun is gaining strength as I follow the road past an old school, converted to a café, and a straggle of surf shops, eating establishments and a tiny post office.  The signs are leading me to Praia da Baleeira and the old port.

From here the lookout is to distant Praia do Martinhal.  The bay is protected by the four islets lined up on the horizon.  It’s a bustling port area, temporarily becalmed.  The small cove has tempted just a few to frolic on the sands.

I’m pleasantly tired now, and climb back up the steep cliff, passing the pretty tasca with the incomparable view, to a more modest eatery, where the locals happily pass the time of day.  I try to catch a few scraps of gossip while gazing out across the bay.

walking logo

I hope you enjoyed a wander across Sagres.  Even in high summer it’s a place where you need a warm jacket early morning, and certainly when the mist creeps in on an evening.  I’d love to see it with the sea raging and storming those cliffs.  For now I’m content to share a few walks.  Many thanks to all of you who keep them coming.

……………………………………………………….

Carol has shared some truly spectacular scenery from Australia :

Rain in the Rainforest

Cloud Shapes

A Walk in the Forest

While Marion treads carefully on limestone pavement in Yorkshire :

Malham Cove

And speaking of limestone, Drake introduces us to a rather special one :

Some answers blow in the wind

While, just across the water, we are…

Surrounded by horizons

An early start and a bit of a climb certainly didn’t daunt Albert :

Jerrabomberra Mountain Reserve-Summit Walk

Nor is there any reason to stay at home with local views like this!

A Walk in the Woods – or beating those stay-cation blues!

Walking doesn’t have to be restricted to Mondays.  Whatever suits you, Colline  🙂

A Sunday Stroll

Rupali enjoys taking us out for the day and exploring her beautiful world :

Weekend 101 -Hiking

Finding sanctuary in nature

While Susan finds delight in the simplest of pleasures :

Walking the urban forest

Natalie always manages to keep herself busy, no matter where :

Summer Week 4 :Trillium Park

It’s a long while since I’ve been to Morecambe Bay, and I’m happy to do it in Eunice’s company :

Morecambe promenade – south to north

How about this for a grand finale?  A fabulous post from Sheetal :

The Ultimate Guide to Florence

Rather a lot of shares this week.  Please visit where you can, and apologies for anyone I’ve missed.  I’m temporarily becalmed myself, after a wonderful family visit.  Take care all, and have a good week.

Jo’s Monday walk : The end of the world

What would you expect to find at the End of the World?  Certainly not a gift shop selling exceptional marine sculptures!  But I was very taken with ‘Nemo’ and his friends, even though I’d come all this way to admire a lighthouse and gaze out in the direction of the Americas.  Cabo de Sáo Vicente lies at the south westernmost tip of Portugal, and indeed of Europe, just 6 km around the coast from Sagres.  It’s a spectacular location, the cliffs rising almost vertically from the Atlantic to a height of 75 metres.

Peer hard at the clifftops and you might observe some tiny humans, just to give you some idea of scale.  Not being especially nimble of foot, I usually remain behind the camera on these occasions.  Opening time is at 10.00 and fortunately this seems to coincide with the time at which the sea fog starts to roll back, revealing the stacks in all their beauty.

As you round the bay approaching the lighthouse, your eye is snagged by the Fortaleza de Beliche.  I never can resist a good fortress, and as we were a little early for the lighthouse it made sense to go there first, though not quite sure what we’d find.

More enticing views, and a rugged path down the cliff, but my right flipflop chose this moment to part company with its sole.  Obviously a warning!  Running repairs meant that I could at least slow shuffle as far as the lighthouse.  Still, a 16th century fortress, once under attack by Sir Francis Drake, no less, was a welcome addition to my walk.  Access to the chapel is no longer possible as the site was closed due to erosion in the 1990s.  Seabirds glide around the cliffs and dolphins frolic in the water below.  Here, nature reigns supreme.

The promontory of Cape St. Vincent (Cabo de Sáo Vicente) was regarded as sacred ground as far back as neolithic times.  The Ancient Greeks dedicated a temple here to Heracles, and of course, the Romans were here too.  Naval battles aplenty were fought offshore, but it’s easy to imagine this tranquil place as having magical qualities.  The setting sun hissing into the ocean was once thought to mark the edge of the known world.

The present lighthouse is 24 metres high and was built in 1846 over the ruins of a 16th century Franciscan convent.  It guards one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, and is among the most powerful lighthouses in Europe.  Much later we could see it from our hotel in Sagres, as dusk fell.  But it’s time for a much needed coffee stop, a little more artwork and some great entertainment, watching people clamber onto the giant chair for a photo opportunity.  And yes, the coffee and pastries were extortionate, but they were awfully nice.

When we left there was a whole array of takeaway coffee and burger vans setting up in the parking space outside.  Understandable, but, as there was no admission charge on the lighthouse, I didn’t begrudge spending a little in the coffee shop.  If they’d sold flipflops in the gift shop I’d have bought those too.  My one disappointment was not to be able to ascend the lighthouse.

walking logo

Sagres was an interesting experience and I loved the sea breezes, but I’m keeping posts minimal for now.  Many thanks for your continued support.  Life remains hot, and busy.  Apologies if I’ve missed anybody from the following round up.  Enjoy!

………………………………………………………………………………….

Let Drake take you on a voyage of discovery :

Another day in paradise

When waiting turn idyllic

Slow walk

Carol shares the beauty of her native Australia :

A Walk to Remember

Up, Down, Up

And Rupali always shares the gift of love :

Weekend 99: To heal

Midsummer seems so long ago, but you’ll enjoy this offering from Ulli :

Prehistoric Midsummer at Woodhenge

Who doesn’t love poppies?  Margaret’s an early riser :

It’s Worth Going Walking Quite Early…

Janet’s away on holiday, but she left this treasure before departing :

Monday walk… castle walk

And it’s a while since Sandra wrote this.  The blackberries may be ripe now!

Same place, different week

Eunice walks most weekends, in a lovely area, so if you visit her you’ll be spoiled for choice :

Heysham – a walk in three parts

Brinscall to White Coppice walk

I don’t know if you know Aiva, but she does some fabulous walks in Ireland :

A fantastic Walk of the Weekend : the Killaspugbrone Loop Walk in Sligo

And finally, out and about again, Cathy takes us on an irresistible tour of street art :

A mural walk in Washington on a hot July day

Wherever you are, I hope that life is treating you kindly.  It certainly has its ups and downs.

 

Jo’s Monday walk : a fishy tale!

I like a fishy story.  Don’t you?  Truth to tell this one isn’t much of a story at all, and it’s not what I had intended to post.  But if you can’t be spontaneous in your own space… well, it’s a poor show!  It all started with a seahorse…

‘Let’s go to Olhão!’, I said.  ‘There’s a new seahorse sculpture and some net things up in the streets’.  What more of an invitation do you need?  The Ria Formosa, just offshore from Olhão, is known for its seahorses, and you can take a very delightful trip over to the sandbars to hunt for them.  Stuff of dreams?  A little less exciting, the sculpture, looking out to sea.

But Olhão is one of those ‘love it, hate it’ places.  Full of character, if you want to be polite.  Desperately shabby in the back streets, but in the process of acquiring a shiny new waterfront for the visitors.  The marina is always a treat, as you watch the boats to and fro-ing to the islands, but the riverside gardens are currently being torn up and replaced.  Hopefully they will retain some of their character, and the wonderful azulejo benches.  So uncomfortable to sit on, but beautiful to behold.  But we’ve not come to sit, invitingly though the icecream van flutters its eyelids at the tables beside the water.  The Arab quarter is always beguiling, so long as you don’t mind getting a little lost in the narrow tumble of streets.  Spot the whale on the roof?  No, I didn’t see it either at first.

I’m heading for the pedestrianised shopping area- not to shop, but this is where I think I might catch a fish or two.  And certainly some street art!

Olhão has a fair claim to being the street art capital of the Algarve.  The work depicting the fishing industry is among my favourites anywhere.  But finally I find what I’m looking for, and yet it still comes as a surprise.  Fish cavort above my head, darting through nets and flipping their tails.  ‘Linda‘ says the sign over the shop- beautiful- and I have to agree.

I wander along, snapping and exclaiming, until I come to the main church square, where an exhibition catches my eye.  I read the text and take a pic or two, and then I notice that the other half is staring skywards.  He’s spotted the storks.  Attention completely diverted.

I circle around the building, happy to find so many at home.  Did you notice the time on the clock?  I did, simply because at 3 on a Saturday afternoon I usually attend a Zoom meeting with some lovely ladies.  Some of you will know that Becky spends most winters here in the Algarve, and that Olhão is her home of choice.  I wondered if she might like to share the moment.

Back we wandered to a favourite café, with a ringside view of the leaping life above our heads.  All was quiet in the heat of the afternoon.  At weekends in summer the Portuguese go to the beach, leaving the towns strangely empty.  Though empty in these days is not so strange!  We settle at a table, with a refreshing wine, and I make the call.  ‘Would you like to come for a walk?’  And so I retrace my steps, waving my phone at the sky in the hope that they might see the fish, and maybe a stork or two.

I did promise you a fishy story.  I hope you weren’t disappointed?

walking logo

And now some shares!  A lucky dip into my ‘likes’ introduced me to Helen.  Please stop by and say hello?

Quarantine Walks: The Bulford Kiwi

 

Drake has his own individual take on life, and he always makes me smile :

Away from home

As times go by

I always like to share stunning photos, and these from Mercedes are beautiful :

Hiking in green Appenzell

Rupali shows us the beauty of her world :

Daily Walk

Weekend 98: Moments from the Wilderness

And Indra takes me to a city I’ve always wanted to visit :

Hong Kong… An Eclectic Mix

Anabel is rightly proud of her heritage, despite ‘dreich’ weather :

Port Glasgow Heritage Walk

A daunder round Dundee

While Margaret juggles with words :

Six Words?  Twelve Words?  All nonsense

And Natalie joins in with my fishy theme :

Life and Fish-Themed Art

Becky and I share a love for the same places :

Where the Douro flows into the Atlantic

A bit of an aberration with the print in the shares!  Made me rather late publishing today.  Apologies if I’ve missed anybody.  It’s not so easy keeping track right now.  Too many distractions.  I won’t be walking with you next week.  It’s seriously hot!  Enjoy your summer/winter/life!  See you soon.