Eastern Algarve

Musings at sunset

Ponte Romana, Tavira

How many times have you seen this image, or one very like it, on my site? I make no apologies. It holds for me many happy memories and I hope to return to Tavira later this month to make a few more. Today’s photo was prompted by Sylvain who asks for something classic and simple- a sunset- for this week’s challenge. He has some beauties, so do go and look.

It was a beautiful evening

This month is very busy for me. Today I’m heading to the Lake District. I thought I might capture a little window of sunshine but the forecast is wet! wet! wet! So, that waterfall I planned to see will be full! full! full!

Next week Lumiere comes to Durham. The last show in 2013 was fabulous. This year I’m excited to see where Stuart’s sea glass wave fits in.

And then Tavira! No matter what the weather throws at me, I’m determined to enjoy November. I hope you do too.

Jo’s Monday walk : Fabrica to Cacela Velha

Fabrica, our start point

If there’s one place in the Algarve that always works its magic on me, it’s Cacela Velha. I’ve taken you there before on my walks (remember Mind that hole!?) but today we’re taking the boat ride from Fabrica. In all my Algarve years I’d yet to see the ferry across to the beach operating, but a reference to it in Spanish ‘Conde Nast’ left me determined. Described as ‘one of the best 15 beaches in the world’, I’ll leave you to judge for yourself. How many beaches can there be in such a location?

But I’m getting ahead of myself, as usual. Taking a Cacela Velha turn off from the E125, you will first come to a sign pointing to Fabrica. This will bring you to a tiny harbour with a couple of very laidback bars and a restaurant. Out of season it’s a place for fishermen and locals, but on the last day of my holiday in September it was almost bustling. The tide was out and flipflops or bare feet were the best way to squidge across to the boat.

Leaving the harbour

We scoot out to meet the sea, the boatman deftly following preordained paths through the water. Running aground would be all too easy.

You have two choices for disembarking- the first stop is opposite to Fabrica. The second, further along the sand bar, is opposite Cacela Velha. Let’s get out at the first, then we can have a bit of a beach comb before catching the boat back from the second stop.

Looking back at the shoreline

And just in case you thought I had the beach to myself…

I’m always intrigued by beach ‘art’

Natural and otherwise

Even a little wistful

The lagoon is a great meeting place for birds

There’s the boatman heading back to base

A rod hopefully standing guard

A flag of surrender?

Behind you lie the salt marshes

And sparse, wind blown grasses

Ahead, the open sea

The sky was very hazy and the sea a milky blue as I wandered with my camera. What makes this beach special, though, is the view back across the lagoon to the fortress on the headland. There’s an almost mystical quality, to my mind, in being out there on the lagoon. The tide was low enough to plodge across to the shore, but the sea creeps in stealthily here and you can be caught out.

The fortress across the bay

A handful of people in the water

The fortress reflected in the salty puddles

The fortress reflected in salty puddles

I carry on beach combing as the tide flows gently back. Joyful cries and laughter reach me from the family on the sandbar. The Portuguese families revel in their beautiful surroundings. And I do, too.

Molluscs clinging tightly

Dried out sea thistles

Pearlescent shells

More beach ‘art’

And a delicate shimmer

Can you see the family on the sandbar?

Their boat, bobbing in the bay

I should explain that this beach stretches all the way back to Tavira. You can reach it by catching the ferry from Cabanas, and the beach will be much busier nearer to that resort. A very long beach walk would eventually bring you to this spot. In the winter months that or swimming across would be the only way to get here. Or a boat taxi, of course.

In the opposite direction, the beach rolls all the way to Spain, but first you have to cross over a channel. A boat is a very useful thing to own in this part of the world. Speaking of which, here comes the ferry.

We leave Cacela Velha behind

And head back to Fabrica

The end of our walk? Well, first we might have a snack at one of the beach bars. Then I’m going to show you the view from Cacela Velha over to ‘our’ beach, just to give you a sense of place. It’s only a half hour walk along the road to Cacela Velha or, if the tide’s not too high, you can walk the strip of beach that hugs the cliff. You’d then have to climb the steps to the village.

Sitting at a Fabrica beach bar

And there you have it- the view from the fort

And here you have it- the view from the fort!

Across to ‘our’ beach

And there’s even a bench to enjoy the view

Thanks for humoring me with this boat ride and saunter along the sands. My earlier walk gives you a land-based version, if you’re not a lover of boats. In either case, the views won’t disappoint. In the world’s top 15? I think there’d be strong competition. But I enjoyed it very much, and I hope you did too.

Thank you very much for all your support, and lovely comments. I have a fine time walking with you every week. If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page or just a click on the logo above. Next comes the good bit. Put the kettle on and get ready for a good read!

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Humble apologies are due! I forgot to include this walk last week, so please rush over there first :

Urban Walk 2- Toronto Cityscape

Totally opposite in every way- beach shots to die for with Anabel!

Faraid Head

You can walk, or take the train. Either way, you’re bound to love the views!

A Walk in the Cinque Terre

Amy’s world is beautiful! Have you noticed?

Monday Walk : Architecture Walk, Austin, part 4

I’ve heard so many good things about Berlin. Let’s take a look, shall we?

Day 1- Dublin to Germany

A trip back in time with Drake this week? Any trip with Drake is good!

Yesterday, nowadays

And now for something completely different. Many thanks, Elena!

Renaissance Fair in Las Vegas

You wouldn’t get this level of activity on a UK beach ever, I don’t think! Lazy, aren’t we, Pauline?

Early Morning Beach Activities

Ruth has a totally fascinating tour for us this week. One not to miss :

Port Arthur Convict Settlement

The highlight of Geoff’s post for me is Wimbledon Park tube station. A blast from my youth!

Capital Ring- Earlsfield to Richmond

Jude always shares beautiful walks but she has really blown me away with this contribution!

A Walk on a Wild Ridge

If you really want to test your fitness levels, this could be the place :

A Tale of Two Peaks- Part 2

Once in a while I find something a bit different. For the foodies among you- say ‘hi’ to Ishita :

Iva’s Yummy Ljubljananjam Food Walk

Talking about unusual, thanks for these ‘wild’ animals in the city, Becky!

Panthers in Pittsburgh

I haven’t had a stroll with my friend Esther for a while. Sing along, won’t you?

Walk- Down the Canyon

The title of this next post could really have described mine, but they couldn’t be more different!

Walking, Sailing, Walking, Wading

And you can always rely on Gilly to find the beauty in life :

A Green Circle Walk

Or maybe a stroll in sunny Munich will suit? Thanks, Rosemay!

Nymphenburg The Summer Palace

Lastly, Denzil does his very best to give us a smile on a grey day :

Grey day in Grez-Doiceau

Lots this week, aren’t there? I do hope you can find the time to visit, and many thanks to all of you for keeping me such good company. I have one more Algarve walk in reserve, but next week I’m going to hurl myself into an English Autumn, before it passes me by. I’d love for you to join me. Have a great week, won’t you?

Castro Marim Medieval Fair 2015 (1)

The castelo at Castro Marim

Seldom have I seen such a sleepy little place so transformed, and yet you have only to look at these fortifications to know that Castro Marim has a turbulent past. Situated at the cut and thrust of the Portuguese border with Spain, the Medieval Fair brings back to life the mighty fortress of São Sebastião. In the 14th century the castle was a stronghold of the Knights Templar, but it fell into disuse when additional fortifications were built on the hill opposite, in the 17th century. The fortress is seldom open to the public so I was delighted to find it playing a major role in the festival.

If you’re interested in the history of Castro Marim the link will tell you more. For myself, I’m going to take a quiet stroll, before the crowds descend.

The church is looking wonderfully festive

You can click on any of the galleries below to see the photos in more detail.

The town banner proudly displayed

The stalls almost ready for action

With everyone keen to join in

These steps won’t be empty for long!

Time to ascend the steps to the fortress

Time to ascend to the fortress, above the village rooftops

You can see it was built on solid ground!

The view across to the castle, and in the distance, Spain

This guy looked very fierce, so I only took a back view!

The horses were sheltered from the hot sun

The people too, planning the day ahead

Or maybe it’s time for tea?

It was a sultry day and not hard to get into the mood. From within the fortress came grunts and clangs, the ‘masters’ putting the youth through their paces. A smattering of people looked on, choosing a favourite.

Who will come off best?

I was astounded by the thickness of the walls

Surmounted by a lookout

With views of the salt pans and beyond

A plan of the layout

The bridge across the River Guadiana to Spain is just visible, behind the castle

I’m ready to saunter back down into the streets, where the parade is about to start. Before I do, I’d like to link this post to Ed Mooney’s Capturing History Challenge, which I’ve been meaning to join for a week or two. He’ll explain how it works to you, and I’ll be back tomorrow with the parade and a look inside the castle. Join me then?

Six word Saturday

The view that draws me back…

Looking down the years of our Portuguese home, there’s an image that appears over and over. It’s the bridge, Ponte Romana, in Tavira, with its lovely backdrop. Many’s the evening I’ve idled, with a glass of port, watching the dip and swoop of the swifts. Trying hard to catch their flight on camera, in an unsuspecting moment.

It’s just one reason to keep me going back.

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This week Brie Anne at The Daily Post asks if you have a ‘muse‘. Something to which you are drawn again and again.

Meanwhile Cate has just six words at Show My Face. How about you?

In response to The Daily Post’s weekly photo challenge: “Muse.”

Santa Maria do Castelo

Such a gentle invitation

Tavira, in Portugal’s Algarve, has so many churches that I often walk by without a backward glance. Taking our customary first day stroll back in April, I spotted a sign outside the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo. An invitation to a temporary exhibition of Sacred Art. My curiosity piqued, nothing for it but to step inside.

Photos were not allowed within the exhibition space, so I contented myself with absorbing the atmosphere of the empty church.

Peaceful in her alcove

The Church of Santa Maria do Castelo is a 13th century building, rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755. Believed to be on the site of a former mosque, as the name suggests, it is perched up on the hill beside the castle. All that remains of the castle are a few walls and an evocative garden.

Within the church lies the tomb of the seven knights of Santiago who, according to legend, were killed defending the town from an ambush by the Moors. The wood carving is exquisite.

The wood carving is outstanding

One of more than 30 churches in and around Tavira, this link will give you a brief introduction, if you are at all interested. Until the end of August, 12 of the towns churches will be open during the week, so now is a good opportunity to take a look.

The azulejo panels are also incredibly beautiful

Some of the artwork is overly decorative and not to everyone’s taste but it is set in a serene and beautiful white space, and the ceilings are wonderful.

As I slipped out of the door I paused to capture an angelic wood carving, and incurred the wrath of the curator. I had forgotten to take the flash off my camera. Be warned!

I left feeling very guilty, but I hope that, if you’re in the neighbourhood, you’ll stop by.

Six word Saturday

What time do you call this?

Silly o’clock in the morning?

But this makes it all worthwhile

And this guy made me smile!

My feet have barely touched the ground since I got back from Tavira yesterday afternoon, and before you know it I’ll have gone again! Just time to gather up six words and a few photos, and to crave your indulgence as I try to catch up with you all. Thank you so much for the wonderful comments and visits you have made. Very ‘early doors’ on Thursday I’m heading to Poland with Dad, so sharing my happy memories will have to keep for a while.

Just time for a bird’s eye view, from the Castle walls

And there’s always time for flowers

From one of my very favourite places

I will be fitting in one very English walk on Monday, before I go, so please join me then, if you can. In the meantime, have a great weekend, and I’m sure you can find six words to share with Cate at Show My Face.

Jo’s Monday walk : Just boats!

A sea of boats, at Santa Luzia

Today’s walk is going to be pure self indulgence, so I apologise in advance if you’re not a lover of boats. I’ve taken you to the Algarve’s Santa Luzia before, and we’ve loitered in the tiled bliss of the back streets. One of the walks I did with my Stroller friends this past holiday was in territory very familiar to me. We started at a cafe (of course) in Santa Luzia, and walked across to Barril (remember the Anchor Graveyard?) on Tavira Island.

I was busy chatting and ‘catching up’ with people, so I forgot to wield the camera until we began to walk back. We headed through the holiday village Pedras d’el Rei and turned right, down a path I didn’t know, and suddenly I began to take notice.

The salt marshes at Barril

From the country lane

A snatched photo as we pass!

Walking with the group doesn’t really work well for photographs, especially once they get the bit between their teeth and are headed for lunch. We emerged on a back lane in Santa Luzia and bundled into the restaurant “Moura”. Plentiful food and wine was consumed, but then I was eager to get back into the sunshine. I deposited my husband on a bench, gazing at the salt marshes through half closed eyes, and I was off, camera in hand.

Mick’s view!

Not a bad place to sit, is it? But I prefer to wander.

I’m content to amble up and down the gangways, admiring the boats from every angle. Nobody seems to mind, and the few people not lazing after lunch simply nod and smile. The fishermen are too busy discussing the day’s catch to care, and I am careful to step over the coils of rope.

Are your eyes beginning to glaze over? I should have warned you that I can look at boats for hours. I expect Mick’s asleep on his bench by now. Not too many more and then I’ll head back.

Thank you so much for your patience. I enjoyed the indulgence. It was easy to sit in my armchair and turn the clock back. I hope you didn’t mind ambling in the sunshine. Or you could join me in the back streets of Santa Luzia?

Can you believe it’s a whole year since I started sharing walks? It all started here. I’ve led you on a merry dance since then and can only be grateful that so many of you have stayed with me.

Thank you again for all the lovely shares this week. If any of you have a walk you’d like to share, the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo or the link. All comers welcome! And now I really must put that kettle on. Coffee, anyone?

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Now, what have I got for you this week?

Drake first! Don’t miss his incredibly spooky photo in an abandoned orphanage!

The World in one City

Debbie’s on a mission to bring us canals. And she does it in style!

Milan’s Grand Canal

Who would have thought a Tokyo suburb would be so interesting? In like-minded company, of course.

Calling all Travellers

Geoff takes us back to his old London haunts and a host of memories :

My Kinda Town

Join Esther in the clouds. You know you want to!

Walk in the Clouds

Amy and egrets! A winning combination if ever I saw one :

Monday walk : A Race

And finally, please welcome Susan. Beaches are always a hit with me :

Walkin’ Wednesday

It just remains to wish you all a happy week, and I hope it’s full of pleasant walks.

Jo’s Monday walk : Farms of Cacela

Phew! Back to colour again! For a person who hates grey skies, monochrome is very hard work. Fortunately for me, my recent visit to the Algarve had its fair share of blue sky.

We’re leaving the beach behind and heading inland a little way today, to Vila Nova da Cacela. It’s quite an ordinary sort of place but I was inordinately pleased to be doing this walk. It was a case of third time lucky, because twice before I’d attempted to find the start point for the walk, unsuccessfully!

Let me explain. Often my Algarve walks are in the company of a group of walkers. The meeting point is always a neighbourhood cafe, designated by email. After all, who starts walking without a good cup of coffee first? Vila Nova da Cacela is one of those small towns in the Eastern Algarve that you’d have to detour to visit. The busy (by Algarve standards) E125 runs past it and many times I’ve whistled by without a care. Except, of course, when trying to find the designated cafe.

The town is not big, but just big enough that you might have doubts. The first time I and my husband tried to join the walk, ‘opposite the mercado’ seemed like clear instructions. But there was no sign of the walkers that day. I believe we gave up and went to the beach! The second time was a different cafe, and once again, with time in hand, we combed the streets of Vila Nova but could not find the walkers. It felt like some kind of conspiracy! We set off to explore the neighbourhood, sure that we’d bump into them round some corner, but it was not to be.

When we arrived on the third occasion (nobody can call us ‘quitters’) we were dumbfounded to find a traffic diversion bang smack in the centre of town. The directions we were carefully following were no longer valid, and worse, behind us were 2 cars containing walkers we recognised , following us with the conviction that we knew where we were going! Well, all’s well that ends well and we had at least found some walkers and, eventually, the cafe. I bet you need another cup of coffee before we set off, don’t you? I know I do!

As we left the town, the fields were a-tumble with yellow flowers, and an old well sat placidly looking on. A left turn brought us onto a track and soon we were approaching a lofty windmill, it’s sails still intact- quite rare these days.

The view from the top of the steps

Wild flowers growing carelessly by

The windmill up close

The walk is nothing special. Just a meander around the country lanes surrounding Vila Nova da Cacela. Even Wikipedia has next to nothing to say about the town. Still, it’s a pleasant place to be on a sunny February day, with the blossom tickling the trees.

A gentle flourish of blossom

Seen in the hedgerow

While the farmer goes about his work

One of the more prosperous looking farmsteads

I was sad to learn, from one of the walkers, that almond production is no longer profitable in the Algarve. Few new almond trees are being planted and the nuts are now widely imported. This in a country where sweet almond treats appear in the tiniest and humblest of cafes and on market stalls everywhere. I find it hard to understand.

Another ‘find’ in the hedgerows

Horses and a donkey, at leisure

The road less traveled

Crops germinate in the polytunnels

Traditional blue and white

And a few plates on a wall

We pass a few houses and a cafe or two, then we’re heading back into town. Little separates town from country, a flock of nosy sheep reminding us of that.

It’s goodbye to the orange trees

And hello to an inquisitive sheep

We’re heading back to ‘Cacela Mar’, our meeting place this morning. Tables are set out on the grass and for just 11 euros we enjoy a 3 course meal with wine. Our attention is caught by the glimmer of fungi in the grass. The waiter is quick to assure us that they’re not edible.

A gold-topped fungi

But I expect you’d rather have cake!

The walk took a couple of hours at a steady pace (and with a coffee stop thrown in). It wasn’t at all taxing but I felt a huge sense of achievement afterwards. I’d finally walked the ‘Farms of Cacela’! Triumph! I hope you enjoyed it too.

Next, it’s time to thank everybody for their kind contributions and to share this week’s walks. If you’d like to join in, the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or you can just click on the logo above. More coffee, before we start?

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Jesh is first this week, with what sounds like my ideal wander. Come and join us!

Tea Garden San Francisco

While Debbie has me California dreaming…

Walking the Grand Canal, California style

When you’re alone and life is making you lonely you can always go… to Esther!

Walk Downtown

Here’s Amy, talking to ducks again (smile)

Gotcha!

Drake is hoping they’ll soon be singing ‘We are the Champions’ :

Never walk alone!

Somebody else who doesn’t like to walk alone! Thanks, Geoff :

You’ll never walk alone, part 3

Gilly doesn’t mind a bit of solitude, especially if the surrounds are beautiful :

A Warren Walk

But if you visit Minou, you could indulge in some clog dancing!

Marken- a world away in 40 minutes

Finally, Jill sets the scene for a serene and mystical experience :

Tak Bat in Luang Prabang

Superb, weren’t they? You can have a fine walk and never leave your armchair. Many thanks for joining me. I wish you a happy week, and some good walking.

Six word Saturday

Burning the candle at both ends?

But such a pretty one!

My Christmas season has started already, with a dinner party and a zumba one! Barely just got the energy to post Six word Saturday, so here are a few restful images from the Algarve.

Peace and quiet at the Carmo Church

Gently stranded on the shore

Admiring that last glint

As the sun goes down

Maybe a stroll in the Praca

The first hints of an Algarve Christmas

A beautiful house sign

And a wise old owl, for Gemma

I haven’t posted in the week because I’ve been having conversations with Margaret-Rose Stringer about the best way to load an image to WordPress. I’m still not sure that I have it right, but you can read M-R’s thoughts here.

Now, where shall I take you walking on Monday? That’s my next decision. Meantime, have a great weekend and don’t forget to pop in on Cate at Show My Face.

Jo’s Monday walk : Along the shore

Can you guess where?

I wasn’t sure what to post for this week’s walk. I haven’t yet taken you to Nottingham and I know that many of you like castles and history. But when this is published, I will be in the Algarve, and hopefully on my way to a Monday walk. It seemed only right to take you along.

My favourite kind of shell

The river beach on Tavira Island is rich with this type of delicate beauty. It never ceases to amaze me that, no matter how many are taken home, there are always more to discover. Come with me on a simple stroll along the beach and see what we can find.

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When you ride across to the ilha on the ferry, the river beach is where you land. Often enough I loiter here. There’s always a passing boat to wave at or admire. I like to follow the shoreline looking for ‘treasure’. There is a greater variety of shells on this side of the island, which seldom gets dashed by the Atlantic waves.

Looking back at Tavira from the river beach

Meandering

When I tire of looking, I head over the ilha to the main beach. There are a number of sandy trails crossing the island- some easier to follow than others. I sometimes get a little disoriented and wish I’d stayed with the main path, but eventually the sea always appears on the horizon.

Am I nearly there yet?

At last!

Depending how hot the day, I may just choose to collapse here for a little while. Down on the beach, someone has been creative with shells and two fish survey the world, just a little wearily. It is rather a warm spot to be out of the water!

Creative with shells

Keeping an eye on the beach?

Crochet detail

Knots!

An eyelid

Eyelid detail

Fish ‘scales’

Dangling!

Leaving behind the crazy fish, I simply have to kick off my flipflops and dip my toes in the surf. I know I’ve said it before but this beach really does stretch for miles. You have the choice of simply returning to the river beach by following the sea wall, or you can walk along the beach till you’re ready to flop. I’m sure you can guess which I’m inclined to do.

A bit of a splash by the lighthouse?

The beach bar at Barril acts as a powerful incentive. And there’s the beautiful Anchor Graveyard. Because sunset comes earlier at this time of year, this trip I may just manage those sunset images I’ve always coveted. For now, I’ll leave you with a gallery I took last time I was here. I think you can find your own way home? See you there!

I’ll be back in the UK for next week’s walk. Maybe we’ll do Nottingham, but we’ll definitely be walking somewhere. I hope that you’ll join me. If you have a walk that you’d like to share, it would be great if you could link to me, or leave a link to your post in my comments. The details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

Time to share this week’s walks. Kettle on and feet up! Many thanks to all my contributors.

Drake has me singing again as I stroll alongside him :

Here, There and Everywhere

High fashion and shoes this week with Violet Sky :

Shows who you are

Enjoy a change of pace and place with Cardinal :

Berlin Street 0741

Sharing comes naturally to Amy. Do join her and her delightful ducks :

Jo’s Monday walk

A very special garden from Jude. Enjoy it because it’s her last before she’s off to Australia!

Garden Portrait : Abbotsbury sub-tropical gardens

Dear Meg takes us to the Australian bush, on a serene walk with nature :

The river road 4

Noe is back this week, playing with the children on their island paradise :

Amazing journey to Rajuni Kiddi Island

Brilliant, aren’t they? I hope you enjoyed them all as much as I did. Happy walking!

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Eastern Algarve

Musings at sunset

Jo’s Monday walk : Fabrica to Cacela Velha

Castro Marim Medieval Fair 2015 (1)

Six word Saturday

The view that draws me back…

Santa Maria do Castelo

Six word Saturday

What time do you call this?

Jo’s Monday walk : Just boats!

Jo’s Monday walk : Farms of Cacela

Six word Saturday

Burning the candle at both ends?

Jo’s Monday walk : Along the shore

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The view that draws me back…

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What time do you call this?

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Burning the candle at both ends?

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