Portugal

Cork or costume, in São Brás de Alportel?

The Museu do Traje, or Costume Museum, in São Brás de Alportel is quite a fascinating place. Housed in a beautiful nineteenth century palace, I was aware of it’s existence but had never before managed to be in the right place at exactly the right time. A cool, but sunny, Sunday afternoon proved just perfect. At 2.15pm a cheerful gentleman wielding a huge metal key unlocked the graceful gates and the voyage of discovery began.

Elaborate high ceilings and chandeliers stop me in my tracks. I’m not sure what I was expecting but the style and shape of the doorways pins an instant smile to my face. In the first small foyer an exhibition, ‘The Wheels of Time’, sets the scene. Beyond this I step into the fashion plates of an old world magazine. I know that my daughter would be in her element here, and try to capture some of the details for her.

In a darkened alcove I find two stunning Art Nouveau pieces. A corridor leads from here to a kitchen, laid out with local produce for sale.

But for me the detail that I most enjoy is the way that the shutters fold open over the delicate glass panels above the doors. The sunlight through the windows makes those shadows sing. And don’t miss the keyhole, will you?

Just when I think that I’ve seen all the delights available and am about to step outside, the curator beckons me in some agitation. I have missed something crucial. You see, this isn’t only a costume museum. It is also the home of cork.

I’m led out of a side door and across to a large barn. A screen is suspended in the centre and at the push of a button a film begins. It demonstrates the whole process of cork production, from the growth of the oaks, the periodic cutting of the bark, the boiling to kill tanins and the pressing and cutting into the final products. It is an incredible tribute to man’s ingenuity. Within the barn are a variety of displays. A huge press presides over a selection of harnesses and carriages. Outside, a pleasant garden offers more.

A modern auditorium has been added to the grounds and Sunday evenings host a programme of concerts. A jazz musician is setting up as I depart. In addition there are lessons in everything from making bobbin lace to bridge classes and choir throughout the week. It’s good to see the local community getting behind the upkeep of this lovely property. I hope you’ve enjoyed looking around with me and, for those who might be interested, I’ve enclosed a video telling a little more about the life of cork.

P.S If you’d like to know a little more about the history of the building take a look at Becky’s post. She managed some great research.

Jo’s Monday walk : Lagoão Trail

I do like to have a bit of fun on a walk, and for me that invariably means water. When the guide book says that the river might not be fordable after heavy rainfall, I picture great torrents. But this is, after all, the Algarve, and the prospect of being swept away downstream is not huge. The only way to find out is to follow the trail and see.

So it was that we parked up, between the football ground and the fire station, in the wonderfully somnolent village of São Marcos da Serra. Our destination that day was the hilltop village of Alferce, site of yet another magnificent Presepio de Natal, this one with life-sized figures. The Lagoão Trail was almost en route, so it was decided to ‘make a day of it’.

This is a nicely level, circular 10km walk, initially following the river. Much of the scenery has a soft Autumn tinge to it on this January day. A great billow of smoke announces a farmer, burning off dead wood and shrubs. The delicate pink of a rose bush delights my eye.

Before too long we approach the ford, which I’m happy to say is fordable. Mick goes first, in his sturdy boots. While I’m fiddling about taking my shoes off, a car splashes through, catching me completely by surprise.

I linger to gaze into the swirling waters, lapping clear and cool at my bare toes. The river is moving quite swiftly, creating gurgly pools in its midst. Satisfied with my brief plodge, I follow the trail, admiring the wispy fronds of toffee-coloured tamarisk.

Soon a junction is reached. Consulting the map it’s obvious that the walk can be shortened, but the reservoir beautifully reflects the umbrella pines and it’s too tempting to continue to walk beside it.

The trail winds away from the reservoir and past a couple of tired-looking farms. A posse of cats try to outstare me, in that way that cats do. Distracted by them, and trying to photograph a heap of drying cork, I fail to notice the dog till it’s leaping and snarling at my side. My protector has his toe boot at the ready, and fortunately it backs off.

Hurrying on around the bend, I catch the tinkling of a bell. I anticipate goats, but it is in fact another dog. A much more laidback character, this sheepdog scarcely looks in my direction, but he has an ear cocked for his charges. They watch me with curiosity, from the other side of the wall.

The final stretch of the walk turns back beside the river. I’m quite surprised to find a railway track ahead but, checking my map, it appears the line runs north to Beja in the Alentejo.

As often happens, the road back into the village involves a bit of uphill, but there are gleaming white chimney pots to distract, and even an iris, peeping out of foliage. A couple of villagers sit on the steps of their houses, in the sleepy warmth. In the main square a few benches are occupied, next to the pretty little church. I peer into a shop window at a Nativity scene made entirely of cork. Not easy to photograph! A sign at the community centre indicates a main display inside, but it won’t open until 3.00, and I’ll be gone.

A glint of sunlight draws me towards the Christmas tree. It’s made from recycled plastics. A brilliant idea, and one we could all copy.

The only restaurant appears to be closed, but there’s a tiny cafe where a tumbler of wine and a cake costs very little. Duly fortified, it’s down through the village and back across the river. The empty car park is now overflowing and it appears it’s ‘match day’. Young, fit bodies mill about and it’s time to reluctantly move on.

This walk features at page 100 of the Walking Trails in the Algarve, where you will find a map and details. Time to put the kettle on?

Many thanks to you all for continuing to share your walks with me, no matter what the weather. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, and everyone’s welcome!

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I rarely turn down a good scone. I guess Anabel knows that :

A stroll in the grounds of Scone Palace

Say hello to Eunice, please? A Meccano bridge and Mandarin duck make a pleasing combination :

A New Year canal walk

A familiar theme- Capability Brown- from Lady Lee :

Stowe House

Going prospecting with Liesbet!

Things to see in the Northern Gold Country

Jackie explores an inspiring garden :

Albin Polasek Sculpture Gardens

A boat, a beach hut and a lighthouse with Stephanie in Puget Sound :

A Walk through Point No Point County Park

I really enjoyed looking at Brugge with Woolly. Have you missed any of his posts?

Jo’s-Monday-Walk 17-Brugge-4

Just a tiny bit jealous of Becky, who’s back in the Algarve, walking, on my behalf!

More than a glimpse of the Guadiana

It won’t be so warm in this country! Play a game with Biti?

Guess what country?

London Wlogger is doing a grand job of hosting walks around our capital, including part of my old stomping ground :

Mile End Park to London Fields : Exploring Parks of the 19th and 21st Century

And are you familiar with When in my Journeys? This is a lovely walk!

A walk on the streets of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Sometimes photography can be pure poetry. Paula is surely mistress of the art form :

Braving the Elements with Grace

We’ve had some ferocious weather this month. Drake examines the debris around the Baltic :

Day after a hard stormy day

Denzil tells a sorry tale, but all’s well that ends well :

Sint-Agatha-Rode and the patron saint of breast cancer

And Carol finds something really rather mysterious in Cornwall :

A Secret Place

Not so much a walk as a seal fan club, with beautiful photos. Thanks, Susan!

Seal Walk

That’s it for another week. I hope you enjoyed sharing. Take good care of yourselves!

Six word Saturday

Just one last ‘Presepio de Natal’

In the hilltop village of Alferce, in Portugal’s Algarve, a gathering is taking place on the streets.

Wise men, shepherds and curious onlookers, they have come to see the Nativity scene at the heart of the village. And who can blame them?

Isn’t it beautiful? If graceful can be said to be “full of grace”, I think this qualifies for the Weekly Photo Challenge. Don’t you agree?

Pop in and see Cate if you have six words to share, too.

The Church of São Francisco

Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve, has a reputation for restoring her many churches. In the years I have been visiting I have marvelled at some of the changes wrought. Still it is a thrill to turn a corner and find another, ripe for renovation. If you look closely at the gallery below, you will see what I mean. Exposed bare plaster scars the walls and alcoves.

Previously I had only been into the gardens, the church being always locked. Just occasionally the gardens would be padlocked too, and I’d feel a sense of deprivation. A quiet bench, the overgrown trees dappling patterns onto ruined walls, somehow they provide a warm and soothing space.

Still, it was a revelation to venture inside this church. First appearances can be deceptive. A curtain veiled the entrance to a side chapel. Stepping through a little cautiously, I was utterly unprepared for the figures that greeted me there.

The Church of São Francisco has met with it’s share of disasters. Since construction in 1272 it has suffered 2 earthquakes (in 1722 and 1755), a landslide in 1843 and a fire in 1881. Perhaps it’s time it had a little luck. Should you find yourself in Tavira and the church happens to be open, please deposit a few coins in the collection box. It may help speed the recovery.

This might not be what Paula had in mind for Traces of the Past this week, but it’s an opportunity to share with you Thursday’s Special.

Jo’s Monday walk : Enchanting Castro Marim

The period just after Christmas can be an enchanting time to be in the Algarve. Especially if you are lucky and the skies are awash with blue. Each of the towns and villages have their own Presepio de Natal or Nativity scene, and these vary from life size models to much simpler displays in a church, or a shop window. I hope to share a few of these with you, but today we’re taking a short walk to find a rather special one.

You may remember Castro Marim as the scene of a remarkable Medieval Fair each August. The town lies right at the border with Spain, looking out over the River Guadiana. Alongside the river lie a series of centuries old salt pans. A high quality salt is harvested here and, for the first time ever, 3 tons of it have formed the basis of the local Nativity scene. It is a startling and beautiful sight.

The detail is extraordinary. The trees are delicately crafted from wisps of plants, and every conceivable craft is depicted in amongst them. Did you notice the pumpkin patch, and the birds protecting their eggs up on the rooftop? And the storks aloft upon the chimney? You probably need to click on the gallery for a closer look. If you like, you can throw a few coins, in appreciation.

The Presepio de Natal is very conveniently and easily signed from the main parking area in Castro Marim, and takes place on Rua 25 de Abril. Maybe a date for next year’s diary? But as we are here in the centre of town I’m sure you’d like a look around. Any potential kings among you?

Climb the steps to the Igreja Matriz and you have sweeping views of the town and its surrounds. You can peep through the grills of the church at the regal azulejo panel, and spy on the locals hanging out their washing.

A little meandering will bring you within sight of the gardens of Revelim de St. Antonio. You cannot miss them because they are crowned by a windmill. But first I have to warn you, there’s a bit of a climb.

I was delighted to find that the restaurant at the summit was open. Can you imagine a nicer spot to linger over a coffee laced with cream?

It made the climbing a few steps entirely worthwhile. I hope you enjoyed this gentle saunter. I’m saving the strenuous stuff for later.

Thank you all for your patience. I have tried to pop in on a few of you but, if I’ve missed you, please accept my apologies. I’m travelling back to the UK today so my responses won’t be immediate but I’ll get there as soon as I can. Meantime, pop that kettle on! You have some fine walks to enjoy.

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Nothing beats a canalside stroll in my book. Thanks for being so patient, Anabel :

Glasgow canal walks

Jackie’s been out and about chasing a bit of magic :

The Wizarding World of Harry Potter

And Woolly had a grand time ‘In Brugge’. There are some beautiful images!

Jo’s-Monday-Walk_16-9-Brugge

Jo’s-Monday-Walk 17-01-Brugge

It gets pretty cold in Bavaria but it’s so beautiful! Thanks for sharing, Lady Lee :

Freezing in Freising

Much warmer where lovely Becky was. We managed to meet up again in the Algarve :

It maybe midwinter but it doesn’t feel like it

I thought I’d lost Susan, but fortunately she has kept right on walking :

Walking with Vultures

And Violet Sky’s been busy looking for bargains at Honest Ed’s :

Honestly

What would a walk be without Drake for company?

Hjem til Aarhus

And the ‘other’ Susan has some lovely ideas for strolling in New York City :

Take a Stroll with Me Through Rockefeller Park

Isn’t it kind when people remember you when you’re far away? Thanks, Elaine :

Glen Finglas Reservoir

Hope the new year is progressing well for you. See you soon with more walks and reminiscences.

My little town

I know! I know! I’m not supposed to be blogging but by the time I come back it will be too late to share this with you. The 5th January is traditionally the last day for Christmas decorations and soon I’ll be off to watch the parade of Kings in Vila Real de S. Antonio. Meantime I’ve found some lovely crib scenes here in Tavira… my little town. Where else does the fire station contribute in such style?

That’s all I’ve time for! Click on the gallery for a closer look. Blue skies beckon.

A walking retrospective

You probably think you’re seeing double! This is the opening photo for my most recent walk, Boxing Day Blues. It’s hard to select favourites but my criteria is often that a photo takes you back to a moment in time. For me this was a clear, bright, quite unparalleled December day.

Would you believe that this one was taken in August, but how could I leave out such a winning smile? Gargrave in the rain was one of the most joyful moments of my past year. A wedding anniversary weekend!

By contrast, Autumn this year was a riot of colour, and I can still feel that warm November sun on my back as I stood in the churchyard, surveying the magnificent ruins of Flamboyant Autumn at Easby Abbey.

October was a time of great sadness for me. I never could have guessed that, as I looked up at this church in Alternative Ayamonte, my Dad had only hours to live. I was abroad in my beautiful Algarve, but my heart really wasn’t in it.

How could it only have been a couple of weeks before that I was so joyfully walking the Water of Leith, excited to meet for the first time with my lovely friend Jude? A landmark event!

Can’t help but share a moment of north eastern pride with the celebrated Tall Ships Regatta at Blyth in August. How proud Dad would have been of the Polish ships taking part. He was always a patriot.

Which transports me back to July, when I met a lady with a fabulous smile in the City of Birmingham. It was my first time in the city and I loved it. Thanks, Gilly! I know I made a friend for life.

It was a water lily Summer. They were everywhere! I visited many beautiful gardens, such as Newby Hall, in June. Funny how so many of you were more interested in the cake than the flowers!

I spent two wonderful weeks in Poland to coincide with the May Bank Holiday. My cousin Adam is a baker but always manages a few days off that weekend for his birthday. It was Dad’s favourite time to go, and I was so happy that I got to spend this precious time with him. Naughtily though, I did manage to escape, into the arms of another friend for life- Meeting Meg!

In that early part of the year I was leading a charmed life. My visit to Poland was sandwiched with trips to the Algarve and many walking excursions. A day at Mertola in the Alentejo was particularly memorable.

April, always the time for lambs, I threw one little chap into total panic as I held a gate open for him. Lambkins and Bikes– a winning combination?

I was delighted to have my lovely daughter home for Easter, in March. The highlight of that weekend was the Butterfly Trail in nearby Preston Park. They are incredible creatures, and almost as exotic as my daughter.

February in the Algarve is synonymous with Amendoeira– Almond Blossom. And, of course, Carnival, but that’s an entirely different story.

And so we find ourselves in January, and Saltburn in Winter. It’s a lovely seaside town on the North Yorkshire coast, a place I like to stroll at any time of year.

What a year of highs and lows it’s been. I have Paula to thank for leading me back through the months. Thursday’s Special this week is Retrospective. Don’t miss it!

A fascination with…

All things Aquatic. How about you? I know that Paula’s partial. Pick a Word in December over at Thursday’s Special.

Jo’s Monday walk : Querenca to Fonte de Benemola

Another of the Algarve’s sleepy villages, Querenca was looking idyllic on the last day of my October holiday. Our walking group were meeting at the cafe on the left of the photo above. It’s quite a drive up into the hills and a ‘bica’ of coffee is always appreciated before we start walking.

Surrounded by rolling hills and leafy green scenery, Querenca breathes pure tranquillity. Excepting when the Festa das Chouricas takes place, at the end of January, and the waft of spicy sausage rouses the locals. In honour of St. Luis, the patron saint of animals, the celebrations give thanks for the pigs, bred locally, that feed the villagers throughout the year. I rather fancy trying chouriço à bombeiro, where the sausage is doused in brandy and set alight. Bombeiros are fire fighters, in case you wondered. Time to set forth.

We leave the village square in a downhill direction, over lovingly worn cobbles. I’m too busy admiring the scenery to realise that the return route could well be steeply uphill. There are 13.7 kilometres to cover first. I’ve walked to Fonte de Benemola in the past, but this route is unfamiliar.

Portuguese street names do sometimes seen inordinately long. And did you notice that cat, giving me such a baleful look?

Continuing downhill we find the beginning of the trail to the Fonte, or spring. A lush green valley leads beneath lofty cliffs, the arid red of the Algarve soil revealed in the fissures. It reminds me greatly of my trip to Rocha da Pena, but today the weather is impeccable.

The trail winds along dustily, and becomes quite rock strewn in places. In Spring these nooks and crannies will be dressed in the finery of rock roses and lavender, with the promise of wild orchids. This late in the year colour is harder to find.

When finally I reach the Fonte, the bamboo and rushes are bleached almost colourless. A soft shushing noise betrays the presence of the water, a sign ‘olho’ pointing hopefully. A young couple are balanced on the rocks, trying to capture on camera the bubble of water as it rises and swirls in an ‘eye’. I carry on, knowing that I’ve seen it in far less parched surroundings.

These natural springs prevail throughout Portugal’s hills. This is ‘the eye’ in Springtime.

As we follow signs back to the village I wonder if the cheery basket maker is still there, with his whistles and bird imitators. I had purchased a wicker bowl last time, feeling sorry for him as he sat alone in the woods. It serves as a slightly wonky erstwhile fruit bowl. Many new arrivals are enjoying the unseasonally hot weather, and I feel sure that he will be enjoying good trade in his shady dell.

Remember that climb back into the village? I confess I had forgotten all about it. It took a while before I was puffing and panting back into the village square. There just has to be a reward, don’t you think?

Much later I discovered a video of the Fonte that I thought you might like to see.

There are a number of routes around the natural springs. Walking Trails of the Algarve pages 76 and 80 will give you shorter variations on this walk, or you can simply follow the signboards. This video will give you a glimpse of the basket maker. Please ignore the advertising. I hope you’ve got the kettle on, ready to join my walkers from your armchair?

Thanks so much, everybody, for your kind contributions to my walks. I wasn’t at all sure where to lead you this week but in the end I opted for sunshine, as Winter wraps itself around us here in the UK. I hope you enjoyed it. If you’d like to contribute anytime the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.

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I do like a tinker in a museum and a browse round a market. Geoff can tell you a story or two as well :

From Paddington to Page#walking#london

Woolly likes a little stroll, with not too much effort and some classy cars :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Car-Show

But sometimes he gets a little further :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Geelong-Foreshore

Jackie’s by the York River, in Yorktown. Virginia, of course!

Day 6- Yorktown

Nothing like a good fumble around the Albert Docks with Drake. He’s in his element!

Come and get it

Does anyone know what Pargeting is? Jude does, and I really love it :