Our neighbourhood Dalmation, Louie
I’m feeling kind of mischievous this week. While I was in the Algarve, I did a little spying on the neighbours. I had to be careful though. Some of them were looking right back at me!
Have you spied on any windows this week? Dawn at Lingering Visions would love to see them (and so would I). So, why not share?
It’s an odd thing! Castro Marim is one of the most peaceful spots I’ve ever come across. Yet standing there, glowering, at the top of the hill, is a monumental castle. Part of the ramparts that once surrounded the town provide wonderful contrast in the domestic scene above.
Looking out from the battlements across the broad sweep of estuary, the town of Ayamonte, on the Spanish side of the River Guadiana, looks like many another. But as your eyes travel along the shore, you might spot the fortifications at the top of the town. This is the pattern all along this river, a natural boundary between Portugal and Spain. Like pugilists, ready to punch and counter punch, these two nations have squared up to each other down the years. But today, thankfully, all is peace.
The castle walls and main church of Castro Marim
Castro Marim is a sleepy place, with one ancient street that straggles up towards the castle. The nature of the shoreline and the shifting sands of the Algarve has much to do with this. The first settlement here was back in the Neolithic period when Castro Marim was much closer to the sea than it is now, and surrounded by shallow waters. For thousands of years Castro Marim was a port that offered shelter to the ships that sailed up the Guadiana to collect copper from inland mines. Romans and Phoenicians settled here and such was its prosperity that Castro Marim was connected to Lisbon by a Roman road.
The castle and fortified wall that surrounded the medieval town date from the 12th century, when border disputes had become commonplace. Castro Marim subsequently became the headquarters of the Order of Christ, but went into decline when these were transferred to Tomar in Central Portugal. The castle fell into disrepair and was replaced by the fort of São Sebastião on a hilltop on the opposite side of town. The shifting sands did little to help the economy.
Today tourism has found Castro Marim in a small way. New housing surrounds the old town. The Architectural Museum in the partly restored castle tells of a fascinating past. But essentially the town is as self contained as ever, only rousing from its slumber each August for the Medieval Fair.
A typical townhouse
Looking across the rooftops to the town wall
And down from the church steps
Gardens in the newer part of town, and the Chapel of S. Antonio
You may remember that I mentioned Castro Marim in A gift from the sea. You can gaze down on the salt pans of the nature reserve from the castle walls. And if you’re really lucky, you might catch a sight of the flamingos, stretching their wings in flight. For a better chance of seeing them, try my walk through the salt marshes.
Flamingos on the salt pans (courtesy of Mike Bradley)
Where to next? Maybe a tidal mill, or we could hop across the border. Or even join the smart set at Vale de Lobo. But not for golf. Come along and see.
I seem to keep leaving mine behind. It’s a bad habit!
Who wouldn’t love a place that looked like this?
With Nativity scenes like this
And this
And a pontoon bridge like this
Countryside like this
Washing on a line like this
Even with moody skies like this.
Or how about happy dogs on a sunset beach like this
Beside the ferry, abandoned for the Winter,
Or maybe a view like this would charm
Or even, like this?
I expect you can see why I keep leaving my heart behind? Each time, I say “Goodbye little house”, with a lump in my throat.
It’s Saturday again, and six words time. Cate at Show My Face is our hostess. Would you like to play?
A salt mountain, carefully harvested.
One of the best things about visiting the Algarve off season is being able to take long walks. The 12km circular of the salt pans at Castro Marim Nature Reserve was one of the highlights of my recent stay.
The sapal or salt marshes are a special feature of the Algarve. It is one of the few areas where harvesting sea salt, begun in Roman, or even Phoenician times, continues today. There is an art to skimming the salt crystals off before they grow big and heavy enough to sink to the bottom. The end product is mineral rich, though needing hours of toil in the heat of Summer. The distinctive sight of the salt pans, evaporating in the sun, always fascinates me.
The wide, flat landscape of the reserve
Then suddenly, a white stork takes off across the water…
Maybe, to visit this nearby nest?
The walk starts off, without too much promise, along an unsigned dirt track which doesn’t appear to lead anywhere. Olive and carob trees line the neighbouring field. In the distance, across the salt marsh, you can see the towering piles of salt and the refinery. As you head towards them a river appears on your right. Beyond it, in the distance, hovers the sleepy town of Castro Marim, its mighty castelo perched high on the hill. The twin peaks of the road bridge, which crosses the River Guadiana into Spain, are barely visible.
The salt mountains beckon across the lagoon
Can you see the flamingos in the foreground?
They were everywhere on the salt marshes
Seeming to be busy, and happy to be there.
In the distance, across the river, the hilltop fortress of Castro Marim
And just faintly you can see the bridge to Spain, crossing the Guadiana
I’m not very knowledgeable about birds, but you can’t fail to be impressed by the quantity of them, indulging in this salt spa. Heron, white storks, spoonbills and egrets are common sights. The landscape seems vast, but it is not until you reach “the gate”- the entry to the saltworks- that you begin to realise just how far you are from your start point. And to wonder how you will get back there.
The infamous “gate”.
This family of horses seem quite at home.
The horses are wearing bells round their necks, as were some cows we passed earlier. Maybe, because they have young? In 2000 hectares of salt pans, there’s a lot of wandering to be done!
According to the guide book, the next landmark is a pumping station, a far off speck on the horizon. Arriving here is when the adventure really begins! You turn left, into the salt pans themselves. The book warns that you must never deviate from the track to attempt a shortcut, as many are dead ends. If you tire and despair of making the end, you should turn around and retrace your steps.
This last section is a bit of a leap of faith, as it crosses the pans on an overgrown, narrow ridge, and does not appear to have an ending on dry land. It does, though, of course. It feels quite surreal being out there, surrounded by water and sky. It’s a little tricky underfoot- a mix of smooth, hardened mud and shrubs- but well worth the effort. Nor did I want to contemplate retracing my steps, by this stage!
All is peaceful and calm
And then, that magical moment when the flamingos take flight!
The ultimate magic, as you pick your way around the reserve, is that moment when you approach a flock of birds. Seemingly minding their own business in the salt pans, they obviously have one eye cocked for nare-do-wells. Panic, or simple good sense, sends one of them into the air, and in seconds the sky is full of beating wings. Those pallid-looking flamingos have the most glorious crimson underside to their wings, and the sight of them above me, at full stretch, is one I will never forget.
In a world where sky and water are one
And the horizon seems far away.
The book I was using was “Algarve Walks” by Julie Statham, walk no. 22. It has been revised and reprinted a number of times and I have quite an old copy, so there may be some variation. It’s not a difficult walk, but if you don’t fancy the last part you should retrace your steps from “the gate”. Don’t even think about doing it in Summer- there is no cover whatsoever. And don’t forget the bottled water!
I’ll be taking you to Castro Marim another day. You’ll like it there!
Hartlepool sea defences, softened by the setting sun
All of my life I’ve been a diarist and a chronicler. There’s nothing I like better than to tell a bit of a story. And these days, to illustrate it with a photo or three. How, and when, did it happen that my camera became an extension of my arm? I don’t really know, but I do know that I love putting captions onto the images of my life.
So maybe it’s no surprise that, in blogging, I feel as if I’ve come home. I’ve found an audience with whom I can share a smile (and the odd reflection). I try to keep it light. The world has enough sorrows. But I’m happy to listen, to encourage, and to give and receive lots of hugs. This walk around Hartlepool marina, as the sun sets, is my way of saying thank you, to all of you, for a wonderful year in your company.
I like the shape of our breakwater
Its arms stretch out to the sea in a big hug!
The boatyard looks great, backlit by the sinking sun
And the Headland is just out of reach, in the distance.
The light gently gilds St. Hilda’s church.
The boats are peaceful at their moorings.
But who’s that, up by the Harbourmaster’s Office? He’s a surprise!
Those boats aren’t the least bit disturbed by his presence.
The deer seems to sniff the air
And then the sun sinks, in a blaze of glory!
This is the last Hartlepool sunset of 2013 that I’ll share with you. On Thursday I’m up, well before the lark, and flying south to the Algarve. Naturally the camera will be as excited as me, and we’ll do our best to bring you back some lovely images.
I hope the New Year will be kind to you, and thank you again, for sharing, and enriching, my world.
But I’m one of the lucky ones- safe and warm! It must have been a horrendous Christmas for those who were flooded or without power. Nothing to do but try to smile and carry on.
Here, it’s been a mixed bag. I didn’t have much luck on the beach at Crimdon on Christmas Eve.
I should have kept my eye on those clouds!
The blue was disappearing at an alarming rate!
How about this for a mean and moody sky?
But I wanted to reach the end of the cove
I think that might be far enough!
Time to make a run for it!
Of course, we got wet!
But two minutes later, it looked like this.
Then we had a decidedly frosty day- our first this Winter! The park looked very pretty.
Crisp and bright!
The wildlife pond was looking rather handsome
(if cold)
And part of the pond was frozen
But I loved the dramatic light through the trees.
Since then the winds have been wild, but I have no reason at all to complain. I’m sitting tight with my little snowman friends.
Oh, the weather outside is frightful…
Hope you’re having a peaceful time in these days between Christmas and the New Year. I won’t be around for Six word Saturday for a week or two. Keep Cate company, won’t you? And a very happy New Year to you!
You know what’s coming, don’t you? Earlier in the week a delicious sunset drew me into Sue’s Word a Week Photo Challenge. Reflect was the subject, and as Sue seemed to be suggesting, time for a little nostalgia and a few reflections of my own.
It’s been a great year, from Barcelona in November all the way back to my daughter’s wedding in February. If you click on a photo it will take you back to the original post.
Sagrada Familia, reflected in the lake in Barcelona’s Gaudi Square
The tip of Holyrood Palace, Edinburgh, reflected in the pond
Girona was one of my favourite cities this year
One of Durham’s lovely bridges reflected in Autumn shadows
Reflections of Newcastle’s bustling city centre
I spent some lovely days in Whitby, North Yorkshire, this Summer
And with Aunt Lusia in Zawady- this is her garden pond.
It was a little cloudy for reflections- can you see the Transporter Bridge?
HMS Trincomalee, in the Georgian windows of Hartlepool Maritime Experience
A sparkling, clear day on Hartlepool beach- a “day in my life”
Haven’t seen this bridge for a while, have you? I’m returning soon.
I don’t know if you’ve noticed but recently WordPress has started to include links to “related posts” at the bottom of the page? I presume it encourages people to stay with you and wander through your site in a way that the page layout often doesn’t. I guess Be With Us found my Weekly Photo Challenge post A Day in my Life in this manner? However it happened, I was delighted to return with them to an April day this year and a stroll on my beach. It prompted me to write this post.
One of my New Year’s resolutions must be to introduce some changes into this tired old Restlessjo site, or even be bold and start a new blog. Hope you’ll stay with me for another year, good or bad. Meanwhile, huge respect to Sue for her challenge, and all the other folks who mount challenges throughout the year. Thanks for reflecting on 2013 with me.
Winter sunshine? Well, maybe!
After all the hustle and bustle, it’s nice to get out and about again, isn’t it? Especially if the weather cooperates. I can think of few nicer places to stretch your legs in the off season than Pooley Bridge, in England’s Lake District.
I was lucky enough to be there recently, and even though the day was grey, I managed to catch a hint of sunlight on the water. Pooley Bridge sits on the River Eamont, at the head of Lake Ullswater. The 7 mile-long lake slides off into the distance, and the temptation to follow is strong. From the village you can walk round to the ferry point, or follow the lakeside path along the shore.
Subject to the weather, of course, the ferry sails all year. A Round the Lake Pass gives you the option to hop on and hop off anywhere on the lake. The villages of Howtown and Glenridding lie at the southern end. If you time it right in December, you might even catch Santa and his Happy Elves on board. For details see Ullswater Steamers.
The sign is so long
I had to photograph it in two halves!
If you’re full of energy you can take the turn off in the village and head down to the lakeside path following the shore.
The village is well supplied with pubs so retrace your steps when you get hungry. The atmosphere in the “Sun Inn” (a natural choice for me!) was very convivial and the chicken curry quite spicy. Just right for a December day.
The waterproof jacket and pink scarf came too, but I was fortunate with the weather. Enjoy your Christmas celebrations and don’t feel guilty about that naughty pud. You can walk it all off later.
Have a very Merry Christmas!
I have to admit it. I have been so naughty this year, I really don’t think Santa will be coming to call. What should I do to make amends? I could start by acknowledging a few kind people who have bestowed awards on ungrateful me.
A good place to start, don’t you think? It made me smile and pretty well sums up my attitude to writing. Sandcastles in Portugal– isn’t that a lovely image? Alicia loves crafting so I’m sure many of you will enjoy her blog.
Whilst on the subject of Portugal, I’m long overdue a visit, and delighted to say that I’ll be back there on 2nd January, in time for Epiphany. Alyson Sheldrake of Algarve Blog is a powerhouse of activity, and the creator of the Blog of the Year 2013 award. If I don’t speed it up I’ll be just in time for 2014! Aly’s artwork is legendary in the Algarve and you can visit her at either of her blogs.
Now you might wonder why I have awarded myself one of the six stars that go with this award. Pure laziness is the answer! I did warn you that Santa had crossed me off his list, didn’t I? Michelle at Kidazzleink shone on me twice, giving me a star and the WordPress Family award too.
Do you like this cute snow fox?
I’m sure you all know Cee! She is an amazing lady who illustrates Cee’s Photography with a rainbow of colour, and produces challenge upon challenge. I owe sincere thanks for being included in her Sisterhood. And Valentina, a fashion concious lady at Low Rise, High Hopes kindly gave me the Best Moment Award.
Cuddly snow bunny companions
In the true spirit of naughtiness I have no intention of fulfilling all the rules in the above awards. Why should I bore you when you’d rather see another photo or two from Chatsworth House? But if you follow all the links you can introduce yourself to the people you don’t know, and surely that’s the point?
My awards all appear in my sidebar, or on my Awards page. Thank you very much to all concerned, and I do hope I haven’t missed anybody out. So now that poor old Award Fairy can have a nice rest. She must have earned some time off for Christmas!
Central Arcade in Newcastle-on-Tyne
When it comes to shopping, I’m a bit of an old-fashioned girl. I like nice surroundings. I can be totally seduced by a beautiful arcade, especially when it’s prettied up for Christmas.
Like this!
And this!
In fact, I might as well admit it, I’m a hopeless shopper! I much prefer to admire the buildings. As I put this post together, I’m watching the TV series on Libertys of London. Many years ago, when I was finding my feet in the city, I did some temp work in the store. It’s really beautiful and I’ve had a soft spot for it ever since.
These days “the city”, for me, is Newcastle-on-Tyne. The highlight at Christmas time is Fenwick’s Department Store and its window display. Click on a photo to see it in more detail.
My kind of shopping! The window kind. Which ties in very well with Dawn’s Lingering Look at Windows challenge. I bet there are some more Christmas windows to see this week. Click on the link to find out.
restlessjo 
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