Portugal

Castro Marim Medieval Fair 2015 (1)

The castle at Castro Marim

The castelo at Castro Marim

Seldom have I seen such a sleepy little place so transformed, and yet you have only to look at these fortifications to know that Castro Marim has a turbulent past.  Situated at the cut and thrust of the Portuguese border with Spain, the Medieval Fair brings back to life the mighty fortress of São Sebastião.  In the 14th century the castle was a stronghold of the Knights Templar, but it fell into disuse when additional fortifications were built on the hill opposite, in the 17th century.  The fortress is seldom open to the public so I was delighted to find it playing a major role in the festival.

If you’re interested in the history of Castro Marim the link will tell you more.  For myself, I’m going to take a quiet stroll, before the crowds descend.

The church is looking wonderfully festive

The church is looking wonderfully festive

You can click on any of the galleries below to see the photos in more detail.

These steps won't be empty for long!

These steps won’t be empty for long!

Time to ascend the steps to the fortress

Time to ascend to the fortress, above the village rooftops

You can see it was built on solid ground!

You can see it was built on solid ground!

The view across to distant Spain

The view across to the castle, and in the distance, Spain

It was a sultry day and not hard to get into the mood.  From within the fortress came grunts and clangs, the ‘masters’ putting the youth through their paces.  A smattering of people looked on, choosing a favourite.

Who will come off best?

Who will come off best?

I was astounded by the thickness of the walls

I was astounded by the thickness of the walls

The bridge to Spain is just visible

The bridge across the River Guadiana to Spain is just visible, behind the castle

I’m ready to saunter back down into the streets, where the parade is about to start.  Before I do, I’d like to link this post to Ed Mooney’s Capturing History Challenge, which I’ve been meaning to join for a week or two.  He’ll explain how it works to you, and I’ll be back tomorrow with the parade and a look inside the castle.  Join me then?

Jo’s Monday walk : Carrapateira

A nice way to travel?

A nice way to travel?

Don’t get too excited- we’re walking, of course!  On our recent trip to the Algarve, we picked up a guide to walking trails in the local Tourist Information Office.  It’s available to download online, but with more than 30 walks and over 100 pages, it’s much easier to pay 7 euros for your own copy.  I’ve included the link, just so you can see what you’re missing.

Today’s walk is based on ‘Trail of Tides’, a shortened version of no. 16 in the guide.  I didn’t undertake the whole 19kms, not because I’m lazy, but because we had already, that day, driven down the coast from the Alentejo and a riverside walk there.  Nothing too strenuous was planned.

A paddle might be nice before we get started

A paddle might be nice, before we begin?

The walk starts in the tiny village of Carrapateira, just off the west coast of the Algarve.  A cluster of cafes, a surf shop and a church- who needs more?  Oh, and there’s an old windmill too!  At the southern end of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentina protected nature park, a small stream, the Ribeira da Carrapateira, flows out through the dunes.

You walk out of the village through a straggle of houses, in the direction of the coast.  It’s a tarmacked road initially, and as it winds up the hill you could be forgiven for wondering why you hadn’t brought the car.  My husband did!

But then, you'd miss views like this

But then, you’d miss views like this

And even better, this!

And more importantly, this!

As you crest the brow of the hill you begin to appreciate

As you crest the brow of the hill you begin to appreciate just where you are

On top of the world, with the whole of the Portuguese coastline rolling away from you on either side.  At this point you exchange tarmac for dirt track, but still occasional cars continued to bump past us.

There are plenty of boardwalks to get closer to the cliff edge

There are plenty of boardwalks to take you closer to the cliff edge

The glint

Where the tantalising glint of the water beckons

The coast curves invitingly

And the coast curves invitingly ahead

Despite the beauty of the views the sun was beginning to lower in the sky, and it still felt like a long way back to our beginnings. Perhaps it would have been a wise move to bring the car, and park at each of the viewing points, as many seemed to do?  But that would have been cheating, wouldn’t it?

The lookouts are at strategic points

The lookouts are at strategic points

Pontal was a danger for sailing ships

In the distance, the rocks at Pontal

Carrapateira point, or Pontal, has a jutting headland that made it a likely place for shipwrecks in the past.  The rock formations look deceptively similar to Cabo de S. Vicente, the south west tip of Portugal, eleven miles further south.  The rapid southbound current that adds to the danger also creates perfect conditions for surfing.

Today the water is

Today the water is deceptively calm

Alluring Amado in the distance

Alluring Amado, in the distance

Some days everything goes to plan, and some it doesn’t.  The famed surfing beach at Amado was still far ahead.  We knew that following the trail would take us there, but then we’d have to head inland, back to the village, in gathering gloom.  The joy of this particular trail is that there are alternatives.  Just beyond the headland the trail splits in two.  The left hand path will fairly swiftly bring you back to the village, or you can carry on down the coast.

The red cliffs tumbling away

The red cliffs tumbling away

Reassuringly Carrapateira appears ahead

Reassuringly, Carrapateira appears ahead

Another day I might take you to Amado, but you need to get there early.  The little car park soon fills up.  Carrapateira itself lies directly on the N268 coast road.  The link to the walking trails guide at the top of the page will give you full details, and a few other ideas besides.

Time to relax and put that kettle on!

walking logo

Yet again I have some wonderful walks to share with you this week.  Many thanks to all my contributors.  I greatly appreciate your loyalty, and I get enormous pleasure from sharing our walks together.  For anyone who doesn’t know the format, my Jo’s Monday walk page will tell you how to join in.  Just click on my logo.  You’ll be warmly welcomed.

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

What better way to start a new week than with a walk from Jude?

Garden Portrait: More from Nymans

Who knew Texas was this beautiful?  Thanks, Amy!

Monday Walk: Walking along the lake

Drake brings so much pleasure with his little insights and views on life :

Raid into the fall

Up hill and down dale- Geoff takes us to the Bec :

The Capital Ring: Crystal Palace to Tooting

I always have fun with Pauline, no matter where she wanders  :

Bangalow, a country gem

Time to get a little adventurous with Ruth.  Not too scary- you’ll like it!

Airwalk, glider and swing bridges

Deeply honoured to have Sonel joining us on the walks this week.  Don’t miss!

500px Fujifilm Global Photo Walk : Damwall and Schoemansville Oewerclub

Step back in time beautifully with Suzanne (and I DO mean back!)

A walk in the bush

Pauline’s garden is a tropical paradise!  No wonder she doesn’t mind going home  :

Home from the Hills

Look- the tide’s out!  Come on, be quick- follow Anabel!

Marwick Head and Birsay

And lastly, my favourite walk of the week.  I’m sure you’ll know why!

Cobbles and Blue Sky, a Tavira stroll

I have a slight dilemma facing me this week.  I hope to be with you to share more walks next week, but there may be problems.  No worries!  I’ll keep you informed.  Meantime you might like to give those guys at Monday Escapes a shout.  Have a great week, won’t you, and happy walking!

Six word Saturday

6ws-participating-in-banner

Waiting for a little night music!

The sun begins to set over FIESA in the Algarve

The sun starts to set on FIESA, in the Algarve

Click on any photo to view the gallery

What ARE they thinking?

What ARE they thinking?

Willy Wonka!

Disapproving of Willy Wonka?

The musical

It’s Show Time!

What did I say?

What?  What did I say?

Not late again!

Not late again!

I’ve visited the International Sand Sculpture FIESA, at Pera, several times, but never in the evening. This Summer I arrived just as the sun was starting to fade.  At first I wandered, nodding and smiling in recognition, and admiring the craftsmanship.  Choosing favourites.  Gradually the sand sculptures took on colour.  Just a spotlight or two at first.

Time to sit in the cafe with Laurel and Hardy and wait

Time to sit in the cafe with Laurel and Hardy, and wait

For the colours to deepen

For the colours to deepen

With great drama!

Enhancing the drama

And a smile or two

With a smile or two

And a frown!

And a frown!

A thoughtful d-j

Don’t knock the d-j!

And that inimitable group again!

Or the world’s greatest rock band

I imagine you’ve guessed that the theme this year is Music.  FIESA started in 2003 and runs from late March till October each year, so if you happen to be in the area, you just have time!  Full details are on the link.

Hope I’ve kept you entertained for a little while.  Have a great weekend and don’t forget to join me on Monday for a walk.  Better just pop in on Cate first, with your Six word Saturday.

6wsButton

Jo’s Monday walk : Vila Nova de Milfontes

Looking down from the castelo at Vila Nova de Milfontes

Looking down from the castelo of Vila Nova de Milfontes

I don’t know what it is about castles and beaches but they seem to me a very pleasing combination.  And the one above, in the Alentejo, isn’t the only one I found.  But we have to start somewhere so today I thought I’d take you over the Algarve border, and on up the western coastline of Portugal.  I have been to this area before but never so far as Vila Nova de Milfontes.

Situated at the mouth of the River Mira, the presence of the castle tells you that it was not always so peaceful here. Forte de São Clemente still has a drawbridge.  Dating back to 1485, the town had a key defensive role to play, and the wide estuary provided a safe harbour.  Today it’s not pirates we have to fear so much as tourists.  The town is part of the Southwest Alentejo and Costa Vicentina national park, which stretches all the way down the coast and into the Algarve.  As such it enjoys a good measure of protection, and development is largely low rise.

Not for nothing is this known as the windy coast, and in my short visit it was highly apparent that this could be a cool spot. (the wind sometimes whistled in the corners of my hotel)  But I also experienced some lovely sunshine, so let’s take a wander through the town.

We'll start here in the shade of the castle

We’ll start here in the shade of the castle

There’s a tiny square,  Praça da Barbacã, very atmospheric at night, which looks down on the ferry point.  A rather strange sculpture has pride of place.  It pays tribute to the role played locally in aviation between Portugal and Macau in the Far East.

This is the nicest part of town, as you wander gently uphill through a mix of older houses and new.  There’s a small, simple church and a few gift shops.  What appears to be a tiny cafe turns out to be a 3 storey Tardis, serving food to half the town, myself included!  I meander along, past ochre and immaculate blue and white, letting my eye drift, as it does.

But wait!  There are surprises in store.

I thought that there must be some kind of scarecrow festival going on, but this was the only evidence I found.  Just one ‘spooky’ street, with an interesting shop or two for delving.

Or a seahorse with attitude?

Maybe a seahorse with attitude?

This looks like a good place to stay

And on the street corner, a good-looking place to stay

Pausing, I look down to the right and catch a glimpse of water.  Like a magnet, I’m drawn.

Looking back you can see the road bridge spanning the River Mira which brings you into town, but ahead the estuary opens out. Locals race against the tide to winkle out errant shellfish. Beneath my feet, a shelf of lavishly coloured rock.

Gazing out to sea

Gazing out to sea

And here's the ferry point. It's lunch hour!

And here’s the ferry point, at lunch hour

A group of backpackers sit in the shade.  I wonder where they’re off to next.  It feels like a transient place, and I know that there are beaches aplenty, just waiting.

Time to mount the steps back to the castelo

Time to mount the steps back to the castelo- not too arduous!

And this is your reward!

And here you have your reward!

I hope you enjoyed our morning amble.  That fresh sea air always does me a power of good.  The resort has probably stayed so peaceful because it’s quite a distance from the nearest airport, Lisbon, and you would probably need to drive there.

Time to share some walks.  Got the kettle on?

walking logo

Some of these folks have had a long wait to be included this week, so apologies if you’ve already been there.  Please do visit them if you haven’t.  If you’d like to join in, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  You’ll be very welcome.

……………………………………………………………………………..

Let’s start the ball rolling with Bratislava.  Wouldn’t I love to accompany Debbie there?  This is SO pretty!

No Feeling Blue Here

Blue skies in the Shetlands for Anabel.  Lucky, or what?

Jarlshof to Sumburgh Head

Car boot sale anyone?  Actually Violet’s calling it a Farmer’s Market :

To market, to market

Random but very enjoyable rambles with Jackie and Frida Kahlo :

Monday’s Walk

Fairmont Banff Springs!  Sadly this luxury is not for me, but just look at Amy’s photos!

Monday Walk : Castle in the Wilderness (2)

Drake pays a wonderful tribute to ‘strong women’ :

The shades of Joan of Arc

And, in my absence, he took a little walk with the Beatles!

Nowhere walk

While Jaspa takes us strolling ‘down South America way’ :

The Streets of Santiago, Chile

Jill takes us for a fun wander (and I think there’s street art too)

Auckland City on a good day

What do Errol Flynn and Hobart have in common?  Find out with Ruth!

A walk around Battery Point

Fascination and excitement from the Southern hemisphere!  You’ll find it with Laia :

Rotorua: Maori culture and geothermal activity

And please welcome another ‘fit person’ to my walks.  You may have difficulty keeping up!

Memories of Ireland: Mount Brandon

Jude has excelled herself in my absence, with 3 new walks!  The most recent one unfortunately ended with a limp.

Garden Portrait : RHS Wisley part 1

Garden Portrait : RHS Wisley part 2

A painful memory or two here from Jude- suffering for her art!

Garden Portrait : Painshill Park

Unfortunately I won’t be walk leading next Monday as I’ll still be recovering from a Polish wedding.  I’m only gone a few days and hope to be back on track after that.  Seriously!  Meantime you might like to keep an eye on those lovely lasses at Monday Escapes.  Take care, and enjoy your walking!

 

 

Six word Saturday

6ws-participating-in-banner

Hello, and how are you all?

The 'tents' return to Tavira

The ‘tents’ return to Tavira

What a fortnight, but what to select to show you what I’ve been up to?  In brief, of course.  More by luck than planning, the Mediterranean Diet Fair took place whilst I was in Tavira, which accounts for those little white tents and the variety of goodies within. It marked the end of an extremely hot Summer, in which the evenings were soothed by riverside entertainment.

The floodlit castle walls took on a magic of their own

The floodlit castle walls took on a magic of their own

And the churches opened their doors to show everyone the beauty inside

And the churches opened their doors to show everyone the beauty inside

Including the incomparable beauty of the Misericordia Church

Including the incomparable beauty of the Misericordia Church

With its wonderful azulejo panels

With its wonderful azulejo panels

The days were spent mostly wandering beaches.  I discovered a new obsession with buoys.  And I continued my exploration along the west coast of Portugal, up into the beautiful Alentejo.

Zambueira do Mar in the Alentejo

Zambueira do Mar in the Alentejo

Then there was the excitement that was the Medieval Fair at Castro Marim, with both castelo and mighty fortress an arena for combat, and an array of stalls and distractions.  Plus an evening of sand sculptures at FIESA.

Adding colour to Beethoven at FIESA

Adding colour to Beethoven at FIESA

I even managed to combine Morning Glory for Gilly with a hint of metal bench for Jude!  Yes, it was a fine holiday, and there are many tales to tell.  Gilly is going to the Algarve soon herself, and Jude always extends a warm welcome, so pop in and say ‘hi’ to them both.

A bench at Cacela Velha

A bench at Cacela Velha

I have to decide where to take you walking on Monday, and then I have a wedding in Poland, so I’ll miss Six word Saturday again next week.  I hope you’ve all had a great Summer, and if you’d like to share it with Cate I’m sure she’d be pleased.  See you soon!

6wsButton

Benches with a past

Bench 1In Largo 1 de Dezembro, a busy square near the river front in Portimao, traces of Portuguese history linger.  A series of benches commemorate events from the past.  Some depict the glory years, when Portugal had an empire and her explorers roamed the world. Others, significant turning points, like the foundation of the Portuguese nation, on 5th October, 1143, shown above.

Bench 6Not a peaceful scene to accompany a lunchtime sandwich, this bench commemorates the Battle of Aljubarrota on 14th August, 1385. One of many battles with Spain, here King Joao 1 and his general Nuno Alvares Pereira defeat the Castilians.Bench 5The Portuguese Empire spanned almost 600 years, from the capture of Ceuta in North Africa in 1415 to the handover of Macau to the People’s Republic of China in 1999- the longest lived of any of the European colonial empires.  The scene above shows the fall of Ceuta in Morocco, on 21st August, 1415.

Bench 3Probably my favourite scene denotes the arrival of the Vasco da Gama in Calicut, India, on 28th May, 1489.  Below we have the discovery of Brazil, on 24th April, 1500.

Bench 2

Brazil provided a safe refuge for the Portuguese monarchy during the Napoleonic Wars but all good things come to an end and Brazil finally achieved independence in 1822.

Circle bench

The October Revolution in 1910 resulted in the overthrow of the monarchy, the expulsion of the Braganca dynasty, and and the founding of a Portuguese Republic.   Still, it makes a pleasant bench to sit a while and contemplate history.

Bench 4I hope you can enjoy a lunchtime linger.  Jude asked for Benches with unusual details this month. The condition and situation of these benches means I’ve had to employ a little artful disguise.

Like many people I thought that the name azulejos (the type of tile shown on these benches) came from the Portuguese word azul, or blue.  The name actually derives from the Arabic al zuleycha.  Just one of many delightful things I discovered while reading the online magazine Enjoy the Algarve.  You might like it too.

 

Jo’s Monday walk : a surprise, at Estoi

The mother church at Estoi

The mother church at Estoi

Do you remember the lovely palace gardens at Estoi in the Algarve?  I was there last November for a Garden Fair. Always on the lookout for somewhere new to walk, I sat up and took notice when, advertised in the ‘Portugal News’, I spotted a guided walk in the countryside surrounding Estoi.

The village of Estoi makes a pleasant enough wander in itself, and so, one surprisingly warm April Saturday, I joined up with the group of walkers.  A young man called Chris was our walk leader. After gathering up his flock by the church steps in the main square, he set off, at a fair pace.  A little too fair, in all probability, for someone who loves the distraction of wild flowers.  But I managed to keep up… mostly!

The sky patterns were bewitching that day!

The sky patterns were bewitching that day!

I was really taken with the views

I was really taken with the views

In no time we’d turned down a trail that threaded round behind the village.  I chatted companionably with several of the walkers, eager as always to exchange titbits of information. And then I became hopelessly distracted by the flowers.  The red soil appeared quite dry, but from beneath every rock there peeped a smudge of colour.

Growing wild and free

Growing wild and free

The occasional farmhouse appeared, with its noisy dogs, and we passed by a field of melons.  I don’t recall ever seeing melons grow, but was assured that this was a melon crop.  A wild iris stretched shyly in the gentlest breeze. But the stars of the show for me, the gaily abandoned hot pink of the small rock cistus.

How can you ignore this?

Who can ignore these?

Profusely growing wild sage, lavender (both green and lilac shades), not to mention the less flamboyant white cistus- each had found a place.  An Algarve Spring has a wealth of treasures.

Click any photo in the gallery to walk  with me 

I continued to chat whenever I fell in step with someone.  Hearing interesting stories.  We were nearing the end of the walk when my then companion said ‘ah, I remember this!’  A group of the walkers had gathered to look through a high wire fence.  What was the attraction?  Unfortunately, by the time I got there the creatures had turned their back, and I didn’t manage much of a photo.

Who'd have expected an ostrich farm in the Algarve?

Who’d have expected an ostrich farm in the Algarve?

I hope you enjoyed my walk around Estoi this week.  ‘Let’s walk’ advertises in the Portugal News.  It cost 5 euros to join the walk, which lasted about 2 and a half hours.  See Portugal Walks website for details.  The walks cease in the hot summer months.

Many thanks again for your company.  I hope you’ve got the kettle on for a good read!

walking logo

For details of how to join in with Jo’s Monday walk, please click on the logo to go to my page.  Thanks to everyone for all your wonderful contributions.

……………………………………………………………………………………………

First of all, Drake takes us back to the time when he was a baby duck!

Memory walk through the village

Then Meg meets a friend and shows us around Poznan, in Poland :

To Poznan

It’s years since I was in our Lake District, but Anabel’s posts make me want to go back!

Lake District walks : Silver How

Every now and then I let someone ‘cheat’.  Especially when the alternative is very wet!

Bayous and swamps

Sometimes the beauty of our landscape just takes my breath away. See what I mean, with Amy :

Monday walk : Rainbow Bridge National Monument

Jude, meanwhile, is ‘at home’ in Cornwall.  Or hopes she soon will be!

Lizard Point

And in Scotland’s beautiful capital, Geoff climbs Calton Hill :

Fringe Benefits No. 3

Finally, say hello to a newcomer, Ruth :

On the Way

Yet again I’m scheduling this walk because when you read it I should be returning from the Norfolk Broads (no rest for the wicked!).  I should be back in time to chat with you on Monday evening.  Take care till then.

Santa Maria do Castelo

Such a gentle expression

Such a gentle invitation

Tavira, in Portugal’s Algarve, has so many churches that I often walk by without a backward glance. Taking our customary first day stroll back in April, I spotted a sign outside the Church of Santa Maria do Castelo.  An invitation to a temporary exhibition of Sacred Art.  My curiosity piqued, nothing for it but to step inside.

Photos were not allowed within the exhibition space, so I contented myself with absorbing the atmosphere of the empty church.

Peaceful in prayer

Peaceful in her alcove

The Church of Santa Maria do Castelo is a 13th century building, rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755.  Believed to be on the site of a former mosque, as the name suggests, it is perched up on the hill beside the castle.  All that remains of the castle are a few walls and an evocative garden.

Within the church lies the tomb of the seven knights of Santiago who, according to legend, were killed defending the town from an ambush by the Moors.  The wood carving is exquisite.

The wood carving is  outstanding

The wood carving is outstanding

One of more than 30 churches in and around Tavira, this link will give you a brief introduction, if you are at all interested.  Until the end of August, 12 of the towns churches will be open during the week, so now is a good opportunity to take a look.

The azulejo panels are also incredibly beautiful

The azulejo panels are also incredibly beautiful

Some of the artwork is overly decorative and not to everyone’s taste but it is set in a serene and beautiful white space, and the ceilings are wonderful.

As I slipped out of the door I paused to capture an angelic wood carving, and incurred the wrath of the curator.  I had forgotten to take the flash off my camera.  Be warned!

IMG_3508

I left feeling very guilty, but I hope that, if you’re in the neighbourhood, you’ll stop by.

Six word Saturday

6ws-participating-in-banner

Benches at the beach- for Jude

What's not to like?

Quite tropical looking, isn’t it?

I’m well aware that I haven’t taken you to the Algarve for a while.  Don’t worry!  The photos are there, in a folder.  A little laid back time on the beach would be lovely, wouldn’t it?

Today is just a glimpse.  I seem to have caught the Bench bug, and it’s all thanks to my friend, Jude.  May is her month for benches at the beach.  With just one day of May to go, I thought I should post these.  Jude will be happy as a sand boy, because right now she’s playing on Cornish beaches.  Do pay her a visit.  Maybe you have a bench for next month’s challenge?

This morning I have a little sunshine, too.  Got to make the most of it, before Sunday whisks it away!  Wishing you a happy weekend, and please don’t forget to share your six words with Cate.

6wsButton

Six word Saturday

6ws-participating-in-banner

What time do you call this?

Silly o'clock in the morning?

Silly o’clock in the morning?

But this makes it all worthwhile

But this makes it all worthwhile

And this guy raised a smile!

And this guy made me smile!

My feet have barely touched the ground since I got back from Tavira yesterday afternoon, and before you know it I’ll have gone again!  Just time to gather up six words and a few photos, and to crave your indulgence as I try to catch up with you all.  Thank you so much for the wonderful comments and visits you have made.  Very ‘early doors’ on Thursday I’m heading to Poland with Dad, so sharing my happy memories will have to keep for a while.

How about a bird's eye view?

Just time for a bird’s eye view, from the Castle walls

And there's always time for flowers!

And there’s always time for flowers

From one of my favourite places

From one of my very favourite places

I will be fitting in one very English walk on Monday, before I go, so please join me then, if you can.  In the meantime, have a great weekend, and I’m sure you can find six words to share with Cate at Show My Face.

6wsButton