Whenever I pass by this house I have to stop to admire. Well, you would, wouldn’t you?
Chimney pots to coach and horses
Found in Quarteira bus station, though I wasn’t waiting for a bus. Have a happy weekend, all, and don’t forget to play 6WS!
This is a bit of a spoiler for next Monday’s walk. And who doesn’t love azulejos? Any ideas where it is, Becky? More hints to follow.
Don’t miss today’s #SquareTops. It’s fabulous!
Most of the UK will have their share of blueness this weekend. I’m just contributing a little more. It was actually a cool, damp day in the Algarve when I wandered into the museum and church of Igreja da Misericordia de Tavira. I had the place entirely to myself and spent a very pleasant hour browsing. I’d say that the pretty blue ceramic tiles, azulejos, are Prolific in Portugal, wouldn’t you?
Enjoy whatever blue skies and sunshine come your way, but don’t forget to share Six Words with Debbie. You may be bamboozled!
Beautifully square, or not so square?
That seems to be the theme of my week so far. In case you missed it, I raised a smile with a square on Thursday. Today I’m going for beauty. Becky is determined to turn our March Square. Why fight it? And, with a little thought, you can describe it all in six words.
Have a happy weekend!
I wanted somewhere suitably elegant to end my daughter’s visit to the Algarve, and they don’t come any more elegant than the Estói Palace. In A palace in warm sunshine, back in November 2014, I suggested that it might make a good venue for afternoon tea. Do you remember it, Paula? Long overdue, I think. The sun was just sliding down the sky when we got there and the terrace looked so inviting.
What a study in opulence this place is. No need to introduce you to azulejos after Monday’s post but I can never resist sharing a few more beauties.
More restoration work had been carried out since my last visit. The small summerhouses were a picture, with their vibrant stained glass and painted walls and ceiling. The grotto was open and my son-in-law, who has a particular interest in ironwork, studied the details with interest.
Enough of admiring our reflection. It’s time to go indoors for refreshment. Truth be told, it really couldn’t compete with the decor.
Does that window look familiar, Becky? You’ll be happily ensconced in your Algarve life by now. I’ve taken liberties with your Past meets Present. I’m sorry! You did such a nice job on the Palacio not long ago. Paula- I thought you might like an update for Traces of the Past?
Oddly enough, the waiter said they only had cheesecake. Ah well! Cake’s cake, isn’t it? There wasn’t a crumb left when son-in-law had finished.
There were two main reasons for my visit to Lisbon last October. I’ve already shared with you the first- the Jerónimos Monastery. This is the second- the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. It’s not normally recommended to walk there, but it’s not a great distance, and there’s a very nice restaurant when you arrive. So, why not?
My start point was Praça do Comércio, always an interesting space, where Lisbon fronts the water. Some people can sleep anywhere, can’t they?
I even found a tiny strip of beach, but let’s not get distracted. The road threads along the riverfront, beneath Alfama. Roadworks were a bit of a nuisance, as was a chap on a bench, who misdirected us for the price of a euro. That’s cities for you! I had it in my head that along the way I might stop off at São Vicente de Fora, for the cloisters, a coffee, and a view. Don’t try it on foot! A tuk-tuk ride would be a much better idea.
Google Maps showed that it was only 1.2 miles from the Praça to the museum, but I found myself hugging shade as it was remarkably warm for late October. Interesting rather than scenic is how I would describe the route, as we passed the cruise terminal and then Santa Apolónia railroad station. At a bridge spanning railway and docks, a tourist bus sped past. And then, amazingly, there it was!
What a wonderful use for an old monastery. Tile lovers, you are in for a treat! The convent of Madre de Deus was founded in 1509 by Queen Leonor. Over time, many azulejo panels were stored there, and in 1957 it was decided to have an exhibition commemorating 500 years after Leonor’s birth. The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation undertook the restoration work needed. When the exhibition ended, in Jauary 1958, a wealth of tiles were available and it was proposed to transfer the Ceramic Section of Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga to the building. It was finally opened to the public as a museum in the 1970s.
First things first! It was into the restaurant for some recovery time with delicious salads, in a prettily tiled setting, or a leafy outdoor courtyard if you preferred. Fully fortified, it was time to tackle three floors of azulejos.
The museum surrounds the courtyard and cloisters, and has an incredible collection of azulejos, dating from 16th century to present day.
The magnificently restored church is incorporated into the museum. You will be advised not to miss it and I could easily see why. The decor includes rich, gilded woodwork, fine paintings and, of course, azulejo panels.
Time to climb to the next level. There are interesting distractions along the way, but if you really can’t manage it then there’s a lift.
The azulejos change style and era on the next floor. I tried to keep track of the accompanying details but it was too difficult. Much easier to simply admire. The museum website has an App to help you identify the pieces.
One of the most thrilling aspects of my visit to the Jerónimos Monastery was the moment when I stepped through a doorway to find myself looking down into the body of the church. The same thing happens with Madre de Deus on the second level of the museum. I love the feeling of omniscience. A seat in the Gods.
There is just one more level. The exhibition culminates, at the top of the building, with an amazing 40 metre panorama of Lisbon, dating from 1730. I have to admit, my eyes were starting to glaze over by the time I’d looked my fill.
The good news is that you don’t have to walk all the way back to the centre. There’s a bus stop directly outside the museum and in 10 minutes you can be whizzed back to Rossio, and a different world.
Thanks for your company again this week. It’s much appreciated. I hope you can join me with a walk of your own soon. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Meantime please do enjoy these :
Powder white, fresh snow makes for the most beautiful scenery. Thanks, Drake!
I think Pauline might be grateful for a handful or two :
Becky will be enjoying this in a week or so’s time :
You could get the impression that Jackie doesn’t do anything but eat!
And Woolly? He’s visiting War Graves again :
An old friend takes us on a hike, California style. Thanks, Kongo!
Ending with something simply splendiferous! Don’t miss this from Jude :
Whatever the week has in store, I hope you enjoy it. I’m off out with my English walking group today. See you soon!
I always try for variety in my walks. Sometimes I have to look back to see where I’ve taken you, as was the case with Loulé . The attractive tile panel of the Arab market, shown above, was hidden away in a Pingo Doce supermarket. (I was looking for a birthday cake at the time, strangely enough) Loulé is one of those places you can go when the Algarve weather is not all that you might have hoped for. (yes, it happens! Though not often, in my experience.) There’s always something of interest to see and do there.
Despite the urban sprawl, it has a rather elegant old quarter, resplendent with calçadas, so I’m sure my friend Madhu would enjoy it. Billowy panels fluttered above the streets, evidence that it had been consistently hot and sunny. Meandering on Rua 5 de Outubro, I had an urge to go and see Nossa Senhora da Piedade. It’s an uphill climb to the church, but I think it’s worth it.
As luck would have it, I was diverted before I could even begin my climb. A banner on the side of a church building proclaimed the closing days of an art exhibition, by João Garcia Miguel. A smile from the receptionist, just inside the doors of Convento de Santo Antonio, invited me inside.
But what an extraordinary sight greeted my eyes. I’m afraid the art exhibition took second place. The central nave of the church had been restored, in a plain and simple style, while retaining the crumbly but beautiful arches and alcoves of the side chapel.
A solitary, beautiful fresco vied with the artwork. The most joyful experience! The cloisters were barriered off and in poor condition, but restoration appeared to be ongoing. I will return, for sure. But first, a hill for us to climb…
I won’t dwell too long on Nossa Senhora da Piedade, as we’ve been there before, but I’m sure you can see the attraction. The tiny chapel was built in 1553, almost survived the earthquake of 1755, and has been restored in all its exquisite detail since then.
Overshadowed by the huge dome of the 2oth century addition, you might never know this chapel exists, but it’s been bringing the crowds here for the Easter procession since the 16th century.
I must have had my religious head on that day because, wandering back into town, I found myself drawn to Nossa Senhora da Conceição. Sitting in a quiet corner on Rua Paio Peres Correia, there’s often a queue outside this small chapel with its beautiful 18th century azulejos. I was lucky!
So many riches in my walk today! I think we’ll just tootle past the bandstand and head for home. But, wait a minute! I’ve not treated you to cake lately, have I? Better put that right. Please, be my guest!
I hope you enjoyed returning with me to Loulé today. Next week I plan to take you to Cascais, on the Lisbon coast. A change is as good as a rest?
Thanks so much for the lovely response I got last week. I’ve got some great walks to share, so let’s get that kettle on and settle in. Join me with a walk of your own any time. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.
Anabel starts us off with a walk around a delightful Scottish island I’d never even heard of!
Cathy wanders in all sorts of fascinating places. Some day I’ll catch up!
And closer to home :
This week Jackie is being disgustingly lazy. I know- I’m jealous!
And Ellen only breaks into a saunter now and again :
Not our Sue, though! Energy is her middle name :
Hikeminded! Isn’t that a great name? I hope you’ll read her post too :
I think Carol deliberately set me up with this one. May not be quite what you expect :
Shazza stays close to home, and braves the weather :
And talking of weather, these seas look awfully cold, Drake!
Australian beaches are a sight to behold, especially in the company of Meg :
Woolly tells me that there are more than 2,500 Commonwealth War Grave cemeteries on the Western Front. So much sadness!
Come boardwalking in the sunny south with Pauline! It’ll set you up for the week ahead :
Another sunny city that I’ve always wanted to see (and don’t miss the Transporter Bridge)- thanks Cadyluck Leedy!
That’s it for another week. I have my last pre-Christmas walk with my walking group today, so I expect mince pies will follow.
Some posts seem to just glide effortlessly onto the page. Others don’t! They kick and bite and scratch. You can’t find just that photo that you wanted, lost in the annals of untidy folders. Too many thoughts collide in your head, often at silly times like 5 in the morning. And then there are those that miss the deadline by a smidgeon. Just enough to be annoying. I’ll leave you to work out which this is.
Rustle and tussle
A backlit ballerina
Twirling in the wind
And whilst I have been known to cheat occasionally, in the interests of a beautiful azulejo or two- can you spot these people sitting on benches?
I’m off out to kick a few leaves now. You never know- I might spot somebody loitering on a bench. If I do I may even share it with Jude.