An island escape
Goose stepping without the guilt
Free from all shackles
Fragile yet fearless
Fed on the ocean’s plenty
Simple paradise
Wistful
Portugal
Ascending
Ascending through grey
Slicing sad, foreboding clouds.
Miracle of flight
I’m struggling a bit with blogging at the minute. All the zap seems to have gone out of me. It’s natural enough, I suppose. I hate these grey skies and Dad’s loss has left an emptiness. The day I left Faro was one of the longest in my life. The sky itself felt full of sorrow, and I both wanted, but dreaded, to be home again. But down on the Praia life went on. A battle with the elements that held me captive for a few sweet moments.
If there’s one thing you can rely on it’s that Thursday’s Special, and that Paula will do her best to make it so. Thanks, lovely lady.
Jo’s Monday walk : The Masmorra Trail
In total contrast to last week’s walk, I’m taking you up into the Algarve hills today. Winding 43kms north of Tavira on a delicious roller coaster of a road, you will find the sleepy village of Cachopo. We can stop there on the way back, but for now we’re following signs for Martim Longo. High up, the scenery is beautiful, even though wearing its scorched autumn gown.
A left turn and you’re on barely surfaced roads that lead you, slowly, through three scarcely known villages to your ultimate destination, Mealha. Why so much effort, you might be wondering? Dolmens, or standing stones are the answer. I’m taking a step back in time to the 3rd millennia BC. But first, the village of Mealha, not without its own charms, including these witches’ hat buildings.
These circular buildings, with a conical roof, are known as ‘palheiros’ and are designed to store hay for cattle. Made of slate, the roofs are constructed of reeds from the river bed and ‘thatched’ with hay. Up to 6 metres in diameter and 2.5 metres high, it is not unknown for them to have provided dwelling places in the past. A little cramped, I think.
Distracted as I am, taking photos of the pointed huts and wells, I leave navigation to my partner. He’s usually reliable, but on this occasion it takes 3 false starts to escape the clutches of the village. Despite knowing smiles and hand signs from the villagers, we find ourselves scaling walls, only to end up in a cabbage patch. Not shown on the map! We cross the ‘ribeirinha’, the river bed, and fortunately dry, in entirely the wrong place. Eventually we manage to get back on track, but never with any great conviction. It’s a warm day and I am concerned to conserve our water rations.
Some of the confusion arises because there are 3 trails leading out of the village. We are attempting to follow PR8, which we take to be the Masmorra Trail featured in our guide book. Much of the route seems to be uphill, but the sky has cleared to that lovely blue again, with a nice cooling breeze. More uncertainty as the trails cross over each other, but upwards seems to be the right choice.
Not quite in despair, we are very relieved to spot, in the distance, a pair of ruined windmills. Thank heavens, we are still on course, and we know that the dolmens are close by. True to form, I almost pass them by.
“They’ll only be tiny” said the voice of reason. I hadn’t expected them to be huge, but I could quite easily have gone romping down the other side of the hill and missed them completely. Fortunately, one of us is paying attention. After all, how big does a burial chamber need to be? Somewhat irreverently I hop down inside, in hot pursuit of a dozing lizard. In seconds he is alert and shimmying off into a crevice.
The Masmorra ‘anta’, or burial chamber, is 3.20 metres in diameter and comprised of 9 vertically positioned slabs. The access would have been covered and was through a lower corridor, facing east and aligned to coincide with sunrise at the Summer Solstice. The coverings have disappeared but the slab for the chamber would have been very large. The ‘antas’ are always positioned on high ground, and often marking a territorial boundary. They helped to dissuade unwelcome visitors with their magical, religious aura.
The route back to Mealha was short, downhill and very straightforward, which had us wondering if we mightn’t have been better to tackle it the other way around. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. You might like to compare my account with that of Becky, who was there last year.
Did you realise that I was going to link this post to Paula? It’s perfect for Traces of the Past, isn’t it? Then we’ll have a swift look at Cachopo. The intention was to have a leisurely lunch and rest our weary feet. Palmeiras bar had the prettiest little vine covered garden, but no food. Trying her very best, the lovely lady behind the counter produced a dish of fresh monkey nuts to accompany our wine. Oh, well…
This walk is featured on page 104 in Walking Trails of the Algarve, should you decide to give it a go. If not you might prefer a little wander in the back streets of Cachopo. Now let’s get the kettle on, shall we?
Another bumper selection of wonderful walks this week. I know it takes time but do please find a moment to visit. So much effort goes into these walks and I’m very appreciative. If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. All are welcome.
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I know nothing about Williamsburg, but Jackie’s soon going to put that right!
Violet Sky has a real treat in store this week. Don’t miss this one!
Jesh always has something a little different for you :
30 years of walking sounds fearful! Only joking, Geoff :
Making the most of this lovely Autumn with Little Miss Traveler :
An autumn stroll around Burley-inWharfedale
And I have a lovely new contributor- welcome Woolly!
BiTi has more wonderful photos from Yosemite :
Yosemite National Park- between sunrise and sunset
And Jaspa trespasses on Jude territory. Understandably, he seems to like it!
Wheal Coates UNESCO Tin Mine, Cornwall
Tish Farrell is one of the most emotive writers I know, so it was a real pleasure to share a drowsy afternoon with her :
All Gold On All Hallows’ Eve in Bishop’s Castle
I love the west coast of the Algarve and I know you’ll enjoy seeing it with Jules. Please go and say hi!
Five days alone hiking the Fishermen’s Trail
Drake, meanwhile is in the very best of company, down on Mathew Street :
I’m sure most of you know Andrew, but if you haven’t had the pleasure…
Greek Islands, Amorgos and a Walk Through History
Denzil has a few ideas for keeping the family entertained on your walks :
The Fun of Finding and Photographing Fungi
Kathryn takes us on ramble no. 20, California style :
And Tobias bestows a little sparkle and shine this Monday morning :
I can’t imagine anybody less idle than my lovely friend Meg. Here’s another treat from her :
Fabulous, aren’t they? Thank you so much for your company, and I hope you all have a great week.
Barco Casa – the Boat House
It was purely by chance that I discovered Barco Casa, the Boat House. A neighbour gave me her copy of the ‘East Algarve Magazine’ and there on the front cover was my ideal of simple perfection on the water. I read the article, wreathed in smiles, and knew I had to follow it up. The Boat House is moored off the shoreline of Fuseta, in the unspoilt Eastern Algarve. The natural park, the Ria Formosa, surrounds the Algarve’s capital, Faro. It was a simple matter to arrange a viewing.
Tiago met me on the quayside and, with building excitement, I was ferried out into the lagoon. He patiently and thoroughly answered all my questions as he skippered the boat. This innovative project is a dream fulfilled for local architect Ricardo Badalo. He and his team at Passeios Ria Formosa have created a sustainable, eco-friendly, high quality home on the water. The surroundings are sublime, with a 360 degree view on this natural marine world.
Take a look at the promotional photo gallery. Imagine waking to watch the sun creep towards you across the water, and sunsets sitting on the sun deck, cradling your glass of wine. Perfect peace and calm, and a retreat from the clamouring world. A breakfast of fresh local fruits and pastries and the day is your own. Take the rowing boat across to the ilha and laze or swim. Snorkeling equipment is provided, for these waters are rich in sea life. A water taxi can take you ashore, if you want to venture further afield.
The Ria Formosa has been a protected natural park since 1987, with the aim of preserving the lagoon system. There is a huge diversity of flora and fauna, including the largest community of seahorses in the world. The area comprises 5 barrier islands and 2 peninsulas, the salt marsh and lagoon areas connected with a dense network of water channels. It has to be seen to be believed, and I’ve yet to discover a better way to observe it than from the Barco Casa.
You can make this a purely self catering experience, or opt to employ the services of a trained chef to add that touch of luxury. Tiago, who is passionate about the project, was formerly a chef in Lisbon, and can provide everything from oysters and champagne on the beach to a simple barbecue, with freshly caught fish.
Be as active or as lazy as you feel inclined. Ricardo has a keen interest in bird watching and marine biology and the company provide a full range of related tours. I’ve started to daydream about my romantic getaway. Maybe you will too.
I’m not given to writing promotional posts. This is my personal space and I like to keep it that way. But if I find something that excites me, it’s only natural to share, isn’t it? Further details can be found on the website http://www.passeios-ria-formosa.com.
Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha Delicada
I’m sharing another walk from the Walking Trails of the Algarve this week. You’ll find Rocha Delicada, or Elegant Rock, on page 30 of the guide. This is a bit of a walk on the wild side, but I think my bird watching friends will love it, and I loved the variety of the landscape.
It’s very easy to tootle past the exit on E125 for Mexilhoeira Grande railway station, where the walk begins. I know, because we did. Faded grandeur is too kind an expression to describe the station, reached along a bumpy track, but do persevere. It gets better.
That’s Mexilhoeira Grande, over the wall, but you won’t go anywhere near it. Instead you cross the railway tracks and follow the signs. It’s an 8km circular walk, following the edge of the salt marshes out to the estuary of the Ria de Alvor.
As usually happens, the dog barks ferociously, but wags his tail at the intruders. An equestrian centre is something of a surprise, as are the snails adorning the wayside shrubs. The ripe figs are no surprise at all. And then you’re out amid the salt marshes.
Did you spot my heron friend? He kept trying to give me the slip but I was persistent. I wasn’t so lucky with the red dragonflies, flitting always just beyond my focus. And then the landscape opens out in a broad sweep, right across to Praia de Alvor. It’s a mesmerising sight. All along the shore couples, families and solitary pickers spend back-breaking hours collecting shellfish.
Because it’s so flat you can see for miles. All the way back to Mexilhoeira Grande, and across the lagoon to the resort of Alvor. During the autumn and winter migrations there are large numbers of waders and passerines. I gather that raptors pass through, but I can’t claim to have spotted peregrine falcons, kestrels or little owls. My partner has much better eyesight. I make do with heron.
The shellfish seekers stay out until the tide rolls in. Far in the distance, my partner spots a sight that amuses him greatly. It’s very warm for October and a parasol flutters, providing just enough shade for the dog, while his owner works.
The walk is now heading directly towards Rocha Delicada and I wonder how steep it will be to climb. My attention is temporarily diverted by a flock of flamingos, initially just specks in the distance. I half expect them to fly away at my approach but I’m able to get quite close.
One adventurer steps out determinedly, in search of better foraging. After a slight hesitation, the others follow. I watch, fascinated.
I’m not on my own because a number of cars are parked at the back of the marshes, to observe the birds. As often happens, we could have driven to this point, but where would be the fun in that? I’m slightly relieved, though, to find that access to the Rocha itself is prohibited. The walk returns over gently undulating farmland, with the odd sympathetic ruin for company.
There’s still a little excitement en route. A small plane circles overhead, discharging paragliders as it goes. We pass the aerodrome on our way back to the E125. ‘Maybe next time?’ I ask. ‘No way’ says the husband. But think of the view!
I’m half tempted to take you into Alvor, across the estuary. There’s a wonderful boardwalk to enjoy, after you’ve had a bite to eat on the waterfront. That’s what we did, but perhaps I should save it for another day. If you go looking for it, the Mexilhoeira Grande station turn off is on the E125, between Portimao and Lagos.
Once again I’d like to say thanks for all the good wishes and kindness since Dad died. It’s slowly becoming real to me, but I’m lucky. I have so many happy memories.
There’s a bumper crop of walks for you this week. Please take time to read and share. As always you can join in if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Many thanks to all of you for taking part.
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Meg shares so much beauty in this post. You won’t be able to resist :
I really like Violet’s sculptures. Well, not hers personally… you’ll see what I mean :
Chairlifts, mountains and marmots- another winner from Anabel :
I’ve seen many sunrises but I’d love to see one in Yosemite. Thanks, Biti!
I’m a sucker for a lovely garden, as Becky very well knows :
There are so many trails to explore
And while I’m down south, how about an outing with a Rusty Duck?
Geoff and Dog- the perfect partnership :
Woolwich to Grove Park#capitalring#walking
Kathryn takes the kids for a bit of a jaunt. Why not join her?
How well do you know Wellington, NZ? Let Amanda show you some highlights :
Drake knows Alsace pretty well. Such atmosphere in these wonderful ruins!
Adding a little drama and adventure to the walks, don’t miss Jill’s latest episode :
Night time jungle walk, Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve
And there’s always space here for Becky. This is a less well known bit of Lisbon :
Still following Susan’s wanderings, but I’m a little behind :
That’s it for now. Happy Halloween to you! Hoping you have a great week.
Jo’s Monday walk : Alternative Ayamonte
It seems strange to be blogging again. The even keel with which I was sailing seems slightly out of kilter. When I visited Ayamonte I had no idea that Dad was ill. With my usual exuberance I was seeking out a less well known aspect of this intensely Spanish town, visible from the Algarve across the River Guadiana. The ferry journey is part of the attraction for me, and I love to watch as the white houses draw nearer and we nose into the quay. An hour has slipped away on the 10 minute crossing, and a different culture awaits.
Maybe you remember A little side trip to Spain ? This time I had my eye fixed on the church at the upper level of the town, San Salvador. Looking back, the road bridge follows me into Spain. The shoreline leads past an enigmatic statue and a severely embattled boat hull.
Beyond the boatyard a network of noisily inhabited streets open out. The Spanish greet and call out to each other in a tongue more harsh than I’m used. I exchange shy smiles and try to remember that ‘thank you’ is not ‘obrigada’ in Spain.
Ayamonte has changed hands between Portugal and Spain a number of times in its history. The name is thought to come from the mound on which the settlement was built. The Romans knew it as Aya Montis (or Mount Aya). Beyond the modern apartments The Templo de San Francisco beams indulgently. Once it belonged to a Franciscan convent, founded in 1417.
The street is nothing if not colourful, and my eyes wander from rooftops to doorways and back again. I am particularly taken with a fully tiled jade green building, balconies gleaming with cool elegance. I anticipate plenty of customers for the fish restaurant.
Turning the corner the street narrows and starts to ascend. Still looking up and down, the random delight of spouting gargoyles, serpentine door knockers, a subtle school and the indisputably Spanish window grills. A senhora pours water down the gutter and languid chat ensues.
Halfway up the street I encounter the mystery of El Boqueron. A chapel and a huge well denote the place where an underground tunnel links the former castle at Ayamonte with the Portuguese town, Castro Marim, on the other side of the Guadiana river. The passage is about 300 metres long and runs from the area of the well on Calle Galdames. It is part of a sewerage network, channeling rainwater and domestic water from homes. A large trough ripples gently in the bright sunlight.
I knew nothing of El Boqueron in advance and, not being fluent in Spanish, it wasn’t until I returned home that I could unravel this mystery. Incredible to think of this structure, used as a hiding place in war time, beneath these tranquil streets.
Continuing upwards, finally I reach Plaza del Salvador. The magnificent pink-belfried church of San Salvador dominates the square. All is silent and the church closed, so I cannot verify the lovely Mudejar ceiling from 1400, nor climb to the belfry for the fine views.
Beyond the plaza the modern world intrudes, overlooked by the remnants of a fortress. I make my way back down towards the waterfront and make one final discovery, on Calle Marte. The bull ring, resolute in its presence, though I could never have persuaded myself to witness its spectacle.
In Ayamonte eventually everyone gravitates towards Plaza de la Laguna, and so do I. The restaurants surrounding the striking square hum with Spanish lunchtime chatter. In a quiet corner, children choose an after dinner treat from the sweet shop. The assistant solemnly awaits the outcome of this most important decision.
For me it’s time to return to Calle Muelle de Portugal for the ferry crossing back to Vila Real de S. Antonio. I hope you enjoyed my visit to Ayamonte. Further details can be found in this Ayamonte guide, and in the link to El Boqueron.
Thank you so much for your kindness and for the many messages of support I have received. Dad had a fine ‘send off’ and I’m doing my best to adjust to life without him. It’s what he would have wanted.
I’m back in business for walks this week so if you have any you’d like to share I’d be grateful. As usual details are to be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above. Meantime please enjoy these select few :
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Becky does find interesting subjects for her walks. Don’t miss this one!
Unexpected and fascinating art on Howland Street
And equally unexpected and interesting from Yvette. I almost missed this one!
Walk with Jo : Food and cast iron (SC Flea Market Part 2)
I passed by this place on a long ago trip to America. Let Elaine show you around :
‘Your money or your life?’ Nope- that was Dick Turpin, wasn’t it, Becky?
Waylaid by Captain Kidd on the Thames Path
Take care of yourselves. I hope to be out and about visiting you all soon.
Elusive shadows
It was hot in the Algarve last month and I spent a lot of time searching for Shadow. Here on the waterfront at Olhao I found a good vibe.
The island of Armona is one of my idyllic places. Just a ferry ride away. Sangria anyone?
The palms don’t offer much shade, and I’d have to dress up for the pousada. Those cloisters do look inviting though.
Faro is an uber cool place for strolling. A little arts and crafts. Maybe even an ice cream?
When evening falls it’s still warm, and those shadows are ever more elusive.
Is it any wonder I’m planning my next trip? Thanks, Paula, for giving me another opportunity to share a place I love.
Six word Saturday
Out of the darkness comes light
It was a night of purest excitement and I haven’t really had chance to share it with you yet. Let’s wander the streets of Tavira on the night that Portugal won the European Cup, against all expectations. It was a great place to be.
I left the excitement briefly and climbed the back streets to look down on the town. There was a ghostly silence. But everywhere was clad in finery.
Suddenly a rousing cheer split the air, and I scurried back to be part of the action. Truly, a night to remember!
Have a great weekend, and make some memories yourself. Maybe share them in six words?
Six word Saturday
The devil is in the detail
Mistress of the beach
Drifting, swirling on the tide.
Fronds that tease tiny fish
Then lie stranded on the shore-
A frothy, green petticoat.
Jen’s photo in the Weekly Photo Challenge this week is a real beauty. I can’t hope to compete, but I did want to share with you a few of the details of my recent trip to the Algarve. As half expected, it was unbelievably hot, and much of the time was spent with my toes in the water.
A weekend at home in the UK will be an entirely different prospect. Perhaps I shall relish the cool. Whatever your weekend brings, I hope it’s a good one. Join me on Monday and we’ll find somewhere to walk. But first, pop in on Cate with six words?
Jo’s Monday walk : Boa Vista Trail
Becky will recognise this little chap straight away, but I’m not going to take her advice and walk the Boa Vista Trail the ‘other way round’. I would, however, suggest that you pay close attention to her post, if you one day find yourself up in the Algarve hills, with a little time to spare.
It was one of several grey days I encountered in April this year, not ideal for a trail named beautiful view, but pleasant enough for walking. From Vila Nova de Cacela in the Eastern Algarve, we left E125 and headed north on a minor road, EM509. A goatherd and his enthusiastic dog caught my eye as we headed for open country. At the village of Corte Antonio Martins, our 9km circular trail began.
There was a slight, blustery wind, setting the flowers to shiver and shake. As it died down, a spatter of heavy rain drops hit the ground. Up went the umbrella! (the other half, ever prepared) This is just like an English walk, you’re thinking!
But the flowers on the hillside told a different story. Cistus beamed at us- mostly the Montpellier variety, with their welcoming ‘face’, but large, plain white ones too. Tiny pink ones, and others resembling potentilla. Wild lavender and vivid yellow broom.
Looking over a cottage garden wall I tried to guess at some of the mysterious planting. Carobs and apricots, figs and aloes, I managed.
Just occasionally the sun peeped out, transforming our world. Well-marked paths rolled gently up and down the hills. Reaching a crossroads, we continued on past countryside wholely at ease with itself. Houses dotted the landscape, some, sadly neglected shells, others full of life. A cat gazed, unblinking, as we rounded a corner. A challenge in that glare!
The trail crosses the Ribeira do Rio Seco in a couple of places, ‘dry river’ a not entirely accurate description. Rather, a shallow stream, at this time of year, the surface liberally sprinkled with tiny white flowers. They seemed to link arms, reaching across the water.
Gently uphill again, cistus pointing the way. A sign for Pomar confirmed we were still on track. At a ramshackle old hill top cottage we came unexpectedly upon a family of small, brown goats. Engrossed as they were in giving a ‘short back and sides’ to the overgrown shrubs, suddenly we were eye to eye. After the slightest hesitation, we were dismissed us as unthreatening. Back to the job in hand!
We carried on, with huge smiles on our faces. Not far to go now. This is agricultural country, the hills green and vibrant with colour.
Our second crossing of Rio Seco produced still more delight. A shimmering green pool among the rocks. And more of those little flowers, holding hands as they stretch out on the cool water.
Over the hill and heading for home, that sky still looked very dark. I never did see a Eurasion jay, as the walking guide suggested I might. I think I’ll leave that to Becky. She’s so much better at that kind of thing than me.
This walk is on p. 156 in the Walking Trails in the Algarve guide, with a map and further details. If you saw my Saturday post, you’ll know that blue skies are more the norm in the Algarve. I’m off there, just to make sure, on Wednesday, so there won’t be a walk next week. Heaves sigh! Never mind- let’s put the kettle on, shall we?
Thanks everybody for your company and your great support again this week. I still have a fistful of gardens to share, but they’ll have to wait a little while. Meantime I have some wonderful walks to share with you. If you’d like to join me, you can post a walk at any time. I’ll catch up when I’m home again, because I don’t have Internet in the Algarve. Details are always on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or just click on the logo above.
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I hope you all have one of these. Drake does!
Or you could take a nice old-fashioned walk on the prom with Lady Lee :
Miriam’s a lovely lady but I’m so not ready for Winter yet!
A Canadian brewery tour with Jackie? Now that’s a different proposition :
I hope you’ve got your money handy? We’re shopping with Biti this week :
Or we could go looking for bluebirds and butterflies with Geoff. Hint- there are White Cliffs :
Carol’s been living it up again, in that delicious Hawaii place!
The big city beckons Jaspa. Look out for the graffiti fish!
A Stroll around Montevideo, Uruguay
I owe Susan humble apologies. She’s been diligently walking and I never even noticed! Not one small walk, but three!
Walking with Pelicans (sorry to show bias, but this is my favourite)
Kathrin is spending some wonderful beach time too. Watch out for the spray!
There you have it, for now. I hope you can find time to visit because I’ve included some wonderful walks. There’s really something for everyone. I’ll be back walking on Monday, 18th July. Take good care till then.
restlessjo 
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