Portugal

Six word Saturday

Just one last ‘Presepio de Natal’

In the hilltop village of Alferce, in Portugal’s Algarve, a gathering is taking place on the streets.

Wise men, shepherds and curious onlookers, they have come to see the Nativity scene at the heart of the village. And who can blame them?

Isn’t it beautiful? If graceful can be said to be “full of grace”, I think this qualifies for the Weekly Photo Challenge. Don’t you agree?

Pop in and see Cate if you have six words to share, too.

The Church of São Francisco

Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve, has a reputation for restoring her many churches. In the years I have been visiting I have marvelled at some of the changes wrought. Still it is a thrill to turn a corner and find another, ripe for renovation. If you look closely at the gallery below, you will see what I mean. Exposed bare plaster scars the walls and alcoves.

Previously I had only been into the gardens, the church being always locked. Just occasionally the gardens would be padlocked too, and I’d feel a sense of deprivation. A quiet bench, the overgrown trees dappling patterns onto ruined walls, somehow they provide a warm and soothing space.

Still, it was a revelation to venture inside this church. First appearances can be deceptive. A curtain veiled the entrance to a side chapel. Stepping through a little cautiously, I was utterly unprepared for the figures that greeted me there.

The Church of São Francisco has met with it’s share of disasters. Since construction in 1272 it has suffered 2 earthquakes (in 1722 and 1755), a landslide in 1843 and a fire in 1881. Perhaps it’s time it had a little luck. Should you find yourself in Tavira and the church happens to be open, please deposit a few coins in the collection box. It may help speed the recovery.

This might not be what Paula had in mind for Traces of the Past this week, but it’s an opportunity to share with you Thursday’s Special.

My little town

I know! I know! I’m not supposed to be blogging but by the time I come back it will be too late to share this with you. The 5th January is traditionally the last day for Christmas decorations and soon I’ll be off to watch the parade of Kings in Vila Real de S. Antonio. Meantime I’ve found some lovely crib scenes here in Tavira… my little town. Where else does the fire station contribute in such style?

That’s all I’ve time for! Click on the gallery for a closer look. Blue skies beckon.

A fascination with…

All things Aquatic. How about you? I know that Paula’s partial. Pick a Word in December over at Thursday’s Special.

Jo’s Monday walk : Querenca to Fonte de Benemola

Another of the Algarve’s sleepy villages, Querenca was looking idyllic on the last day of my October holiday. Our walking group were meeting at the cafe on the left of the photo above. It’s quite a drive up into the hills and a ‘bica’ of coffee is always appreciated before we start walking.

Surrounded by rolling hills and leafy green scenery, Querenca breathes pure tranquillity. Excepting when the Festa das Chouricas takes place, at the end of January, and the waft of spicy sausage rouses the locals. In honour of St. Luis, the patron saint of animals, the celebrations give thanks for the pigs, bred locally, that feed the villagers throughout the year. I rather fancy trying chouriço à bombeiro, where the sausage is doused in brandy and set alight. Bombeiros are fire fighters, in case you wondered. Time to set forth.

We leave the village square in a downhill direction, over lovingly worn cobbles. I’m too busy admiring the scenery to realise that the return route could well be steeply uphill. There are 13.7 kilometres to cover first. I’ve walked to Fonte de Benemola in the past, but this route is unfamiliar.

Portuguese street names do sometimes seen inordinately long. And did you notice that cat, giving me such a baleful look?

Continuing downhill we find the beginning of the trail to the Fonte, or spring. A lush green valley leads beneath lofty cliffs, the arid red of the Algarve soil revealed in the fissures. It reminds me greatly of my trip to Rocha da Pena, but today the weather is impeccable.

The trail winds along dustily, and becomes quite rock strewn in places. In Spring these nooks and crannies will be dressed in the finery of rock roses and lavender, with the promise of wild orchids. This late in the year colour is harder to find.

When finally I reach the Fonte, the bamboo and rushes are bleached almost colourless. A soft shushing noise betrays the presence of the water, a sign ‘olho’ pointing hopefully. A young couple are balanced on the rocks, trying to capture on camera the bubble of water as it rises and swirls in an ‘eye’. I carry on, knowing that I’ve seen it in far less parched surroundings.

These natural springs prevail throughout Portugal’s hills. This is ‘the eye’ in Springtime.

As we follow signs back to the village I wonder if the cheery basket maker is still there, with his whistles and bird imitators. I had purchased a wicker bowl last time, feeling sorry for him as he sat alone in the woods. It serves as a slightly wonky erstwhile fruit bowl. Many new arrivals are enjoying the unseasonally hot weather, and I feel sure that he will be enjoying good trade in his shady dell.

Remember that climb back into the village? I confess I had forgotten all about it. It took a while before I was puffing and panting back into the village square. There just has to be a reward, don’t you think?

Much later I discovered a video of the Fonte that I thought you might like to see.

There are a number of routes around the natural springs. Walking Trails of the Algarve pages 76 and 80 will give you shorter variations on this walk, or you can simply follow the signboards. This video will give you a glimpse of the basket maker. Please ignore the advertising. I hope you’ve got the kettle on, ready to join my walkers from your armchair?

Thanks so much, everybody, for your kind contributions to my walks. I wasn’t at all sure where to lead you this week but in the end I opted for sunshine, as Winter wraps itself around us here in the UK. I hope you enjoyed it. If you’d like to contribute anytime the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.

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I do like a tinker in a museum and a browse round a market. Geoff can tell you a story or two as well :

From Paddington to Page#walking#london

Woolly likes a little stroll, with not too much effort and some classy cars :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Car-Show

But sometimes he gets a little further :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Geelong-Foreshore

Jackie’s by the York River, in Yorktown. Virginia, of course!

Day 6- Yorktown

Nothing like a good fumble around the Albert Docks with Drake. He’s in his element!

Come and get it

Does anyone know what Pargeting is? Jude does, and I really love it :

Love Lavenham

Becky’s counting to 6 this week, but there are lots more than that!

There are pomegranates in the tree

While Carol’s fossil hunting and has found loads!

Buried Treasure

Or you could join Kathrin for a delicious trip to the beach :

A day at Solana Beach

How do you follow the legend that is Badfish? Why, with devotion, of course :

ONE FINE DAY in BRATISLAVA : Part III

That’s it for now. I think I’ll be walking in the UK again next week. Feel free to join me but, more importantly, take care till then.

Six word Saturday

Lazy leaf or a beach ‘bum’?

Drifting to the end of Verena’s Festival of leaves. You have one more week for sharing. Join Cate if you have six words spare.

Have a great week, and don’t get stressed over Christmas. It’ll come and it’ll go.

Wistful

An island escape

Goose stepping without the guilt

Free from all shackles

Fragile yet fearless

Fed on the ocean’s plenty

Simple paradise

Barco Casa – the Boat House

It was purely by chance that I discovered Barco Casa, the Boat House. A neighbour gave me her copy of the ‘East Algarve Magazine’ and there on the front cover was my ideal of simple perfection on the water. I read the article, wreathed in smiles, and knew I had to follow it up. The Boat House is moored off the shoreline of Fuseta, in the unspoilt Eastern Algarve. The natural park, the Ria Formosa, surrounds the Algarve’s capital, Faro. It was a simple matter to arrange a viewing.

Tiago met me on the quayside and, with building excitement, I was ferried out into the lagoon. He patiently and thoroughly answered all my questions as he skippered the boat. This innovative project is a dream fulfilled for local architect Ricardo Badalo. He and his team at Passeios Ria Formosa have created a sustainable, eco-friendly, high quality home on the water. The surroundings are sublime, with a 360 degree view on this natural marine world.

Take a look at the promotional photo gallery. Imagine waking to watch the sun creep towards you across the water, and sunsets sitting on the sun deck, cradling your glass of wine. Perfect peace and calm, and a retreat from the clamouring world. A breakfast of fresh local fruits and pastries and the day is your own. Take the rowing boat across to the ilha and laze or swim. Snorkeling equipment is provided, for these waters are rich in sea life. A water taxi can take you ashore, if you want to venture further afield.

The Ria Formosa has been a protected natural park since 1987, with the aim of preserving the lagoon system. There is a huge diversity of flora and fauna, including the largest community of seahorses in the world. The area comprises 5 barrier islands and 2 peninsulas, the salt marsh and lagoon areas connected with a dense network of water channels. It has to be seen to be believed, and I’ve yet to discover a better way to observe it than from the Barco Casa.

You can make this a purely self catering experience, or opt to employ the services of a trained chef to add that touch of luxury. Tiago, who is passionate about the project, was formerly a chef in Lisbon, and can provide everything from oysters and champagne on the beach to a simple barbecue, with freshly caught fish.

Be as active or as lazy as you feel inclined. Ricardo has a keen interest in bird watching and marine biology and the company provide a full range of related tours. I’ve started to daydream about my romantic getaway. Maybe you will too.

I’m not given to writing promotional posts. This is my personal space and I like to keep it that way. But if I find something that excites me, it’s only natural to share, isn’t it? Further details can be found on the website http://www.passeios-ria-formosa.com.

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha Delicada

I’m sharing another walk from the Walking Trails of the Algarve this week. You’ll find Rocha Delicada, or Elegant Rock, on page 30 of the guide. This is a bit of a walk on the wild side, but I think my bird watching friends will love it, and I loved the variety of the landscape.

It’s very easy to tootle past the exit on E125 for Mexilhoeira Grande railway station, where the walk begins. I know, because we did. Faded grandeur is too kind an expression to describe the station, reached along a bumpy track, but do persevere. It gets better.

That’s Mexilhoeira Grande, over the wall, but you won’t go anywhere near it. Instead you cross the railway tracks and follow the signs. It’s an 8km circular walk, following the edge of the salt marshes out to the estuary of the Ria de Alvor.

As usually happens, the dog barks ferociously, but wags his tail at the intruders. An equestrian centre is something of a surprise, as are the snails adorning the wayside shrubs. The ripe figs are no surprise at all. And then you’re out amid the salt marshes.

Did you spot my heron friend? He kept trying to give me the slip but I was persistent. I wasn’t so lucky with the red dragonflies, flitting always just beyond my focus. And then the landscape opens out in a broad sweep, right across to Praia de Alvor. It’s a mesmerising sight. All along the shore couples, families and solitary pickers spend back-breaking hours collecting shellfish.

Because it’s so flat you can see for miles. All the way back to Mexilhoeira Grande, and across the lagoon to the resort of Alvor. During the autumn and winter migrations there are large numbers of waders and passerines. I gather that raptors pass through, but I can’t claim to have spotted peregrine falcons, kestrels or little owls. My partner has much better eyesight. I make do with heron.

The shellfish seekers stay out until the tide rolls in. Far in the distance, my partner spots a sight that amuses him greatly. It’s very warm for October and a parasol flutters, providing just enough shade for the dog, while his owner works.

The walk is now heading directly towards Rocha Delicada and I wonder how steep it will be to climb. My attention is temporarily diverted by a flock of flamingos, initially just specks in the distance. I half expect them to fly away at my approach but I’m able to get quite close.

One adventurer steps out determinedly, in search of better foraging. After a slight hesitation, the others follow. I watch, fascinated.

I’m not on my own because a number of cars are parked at the back of the marshes, to observe the birds. As often happens, we could have driven to this point, but where would be the fun in that? I’m slightly relieved, though, to find that access to the Rocha itself is prohibited. The walk returns over gently undulating farmland, with the odd sympathetic ruin for company.

There’s still a little excitement en route. A small plane circles overhead, discharging paragliders as it goes. We pass the aerodrome on our way back to the E125. ‘Maybe next time?’ I ask. ‘No way’ says the husband. But think of the view!

I’m half tempted to take you into Alvor, across the estuary. There’s a wonderful boardwalk to enjoy, after you’ve had a bite to eat on the waterfront. That’s what we did, but perhaps I should save it for another day. If you go looking for it, the Mexilhoeira Grande station turn off is on the E125, between Portimao and Lagos.

Once again I’d like to say thanks for all the good wishes and kindness since Dad died. It’s slowly becoming real to me, but I’m lucky. I have so many happy memories.

There’s a bumper crop of walks for you this week. Please take time to read and share. As always you can join in if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Many thanks to all of you for taking part.

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Meg shares so much beauty in this post. You won’t be able to resist :

Poland- a land of folklore?

I really like Violet’s sculptures. Well, not hers personally… you’ll see what I mean :

Corydon Avenue

Chairlifts, mountains and marmots- another winner from Anabel :

Grand Teton National Park

I’ve seen many sunrises but I’d love to see one in Yosemite. Thanks, Biti!

Sunrise in Yosemite

I’m a sucker for a lovely garden, as Becky very well knows :

There are so many trails to explore

And while I’m down south, how about an outing with a Rusty Duck?

Blown Away At Boscastle

Geoff and Dog- the perfect partnership :

Woolwich to Grove Park#capitalring#walking

Kathryn takes the kids for a bit of a jaunt. Why not join her?

Winters, CA

How well do you know Wellington, NZ? Let Amanda show you some highlights :

Te Papa, Beach and Wind Walk

Drake knows Alsace pretty well. Such atmosphere in these wonderful ruins!

Left the door open

Adding a little drama and adventure to the walks, don’t miss Jill’s latest episode :

Night time jungle walk, Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve

And there’s always space here for Becky. This is a less well known bit of Lisbon :

Take a walk in the park

Still following Susan’s wanderings, but I’m a little behind :

Walking Helsinki, Finland

That’s it for now. Happy Halloween to you! Hoping you have a great week.

Six word Saturday

Out of the darkness comes light

It was a night of purest excitement and I haven’t really had chance to share it with you yet. Let’s wander the streets of Tavira on the night that Portugal won the European Cup, against all expectations. It was a great place to be.