Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk: Mertola

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In a week or so of very mixed weather, we drove north from the Algarve in radiant sunshine. I was certain that luck would desert us as we crossed the border into the Alentejo. For a little while hazy clouds veiled the sun, but then Mertola was displayed in all her glory.

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If ever you want to step back into Portugal’s Moorish past, this is a fine place to do it.  I don’t intend to do a lot of talking, partly because I don’t have the time, but also because these cobbled streets cast their own magic.  All you really need to do is follow.

Your first sight of the town, as you cross the bridge over Ribeira de Oeiras, is the castelo perched high above you.  It’s enough to whet your appetite.  There is parking on Estrada de Circunvalacao and from there Alves Redol leads quietly upwards, until you reach the viewing point in the photo above.  Below, tables are laid at a riverside restaurant and the Guadiana squirms away into the distance.

On Largo Vasco da Gama, the blue and white of ‘Casa Guadiana’ is tucked into a corner where you melt in summer.  Needing to stretch our legs first, we pass by the tiny Mercado and the Tourist Information centre. (where you can acquire a town map)  A remarkable walled street invites you to follow it’s contours.  Could you decline?

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The doors, balconies and mysterious chimneys captivate.  Each one a story in itself.  I stop to watch a lady shaking and pegging out a tablecloth. And then there’s the beautiful clock tower, Torre do Relogio.  Alluring, isn’t it?

Rua Combatentes da Grande Guerra follows the river.  Just another clue to the turbulent history reenacted here, in this serene and peaceful setting.

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I’ve passed by the Camara Municipal, with its stylish red balconies.  Red and ochre compliment the white so well, the shabby blending well with the chique.  Turning up Rua Dr. Antonio Jose de Almeida, I am but following my nose, not sure where to look next.

The decision is made for me when I spot this playful graffiti on a peeling wall.  Isn’t it beautiful?  And on the other side of the narrow street, an elegant vermilion door, with a single flower tucked into the window.  Never forget to look up too!  Overhead, ornate drain pipes open mouths wide.

Intent on the lovely distractions, almost without realising it you’ve climbed up to the castle walls and are looking down on the Oeiras tributary of the River Guadiana.  Time to inject a little history as we approach the castelo and the lovely Igreja Matriz.  The Mother Church began life back in the 8th century as a mosque.  In 1238, Christian knights conquered the town, led by Santiago ‘Mata Mouros’.(the Moor killer)  The Koran was replaced by the Bible, and the mosque converted to Nossa Senhora da Assuncao.  A keep was added to the castle, but the church retains its ‘mihrab’ (prayer niche) to this day.

New pathways and landscaped gardens have been added since I was here last, and a huge project is ongoing to excavate the ruins of the town and elaborate mosaics.  In May every odd year a Moorish festival takes place in Mertola.  I must ensure to attend in 2017 to inspect progress.

I peered with interest at the ruins and promised myself to find the site online when I got home.  Here it is.  For us it was time to head back down, past Igreja Matriz, and search out somewhere to relax.  Ever alert, my other half had noted a cafe at the back of the small Mercado.  ‘Cafetaria Manu’ has a tiny terrace overlooking the Guadiana, and you can buy cake or a simple sandwich to accompany an excellent glass of wine.

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From the eastern end of the Algarve, Mertola is easily reached on the virtually traffic free IC27, which leads north from Castro Marim. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit, and hope that you did too.

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This is a scheduled post and I won’t actually be home until Thursday, so I apologise if my responses are a little scanty at first.  I didn’t want to leave the gap between walks for too long, and needed to write this while it was fresh in my memory.  Thank you all for your lovely company and support. I only have a few shares this week but I’m hoping you’ve been saving them for my return.

As usual, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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I’m starting with a lovely man in Hamburg and an unusual look at life – thanks, Tobias!

U3: Landungsbrucken- St. Pauli

A head for heights will help but is not essential to accompany Anabel, but money could be!

Toronto: an island walk

And Jackie tells me that Chinatown is great for food :

Spadina St

Geoff’s rambling again!  I think we should humour him, don’t you?

K is for Kensington and Khelsea #atozchallenge

This next is a bike ride so I’m afraid you’ll have to jog to keep up with Kathrin!

My weekly ramble

Hope this finds you happy and well.  I’ll be back in person soon.  Roving temporarily suspended….

Jo’s Monday walk : Lambkins and bikes!

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Just before I made off for the Algarve I had time to squeeze in one last walk.  I’ve been to the North Yorkshire village of Great Ayton many times, and had not really expected to share with you another walk there.  150 photos proved me wrong, and I think you might like to share one or two of them.  Who can resist wobbly, white lambs?

I almost didn’t get there because our walk leader’s car was sick, but I bestowed the walk leader badge on my other half, and off we went.

It was a bit fresh, and misty, but with the bunting flapping wildly, we crossed over the narrow bridge and headed up the side street out of the village.  More about the bunting later.  There’s a sign pointing out a public footpath, which leads between houses and a big hawthorn fence, round past the cricket pitch, over a field and down to a stream.  Are you still with me so far?  It’s tricky!

This is where you should end up.  Cross over the little bridge and you come out into a country lane.  More bunting and a bridge with a scruffy sign, pointing to Easby and Kildale.  You don’t want either of those options today, so proceed gently uphill past Brookside Farm.

The goose, though handsome, is the honkiest, noisiest creature.  The cow, much more placid.  At about this point we were joined by a young ex-army man, out looking for fresh air and exercise.  Hadn’t he come to just the right place!  We chatted pleasantly along the lane.  The conversation was of Pisa and travels abroad, and I totally missed the fact that the farm cafe was open.  Not like me, at all! The husband was more alert but didn’t point it out till after we’d parted company with our walker friend.  We directed him uphill towards Captain Cook’s Monument.  A much sterner test for the legs, and one that we declined that day.

IMG_5109The daffs were everywhere, and a sprinkling of primroses too.  As we hailed the morning rider, White Cottage came into view, with a stunning fanfare of rhododendron.  The crossroads here lead down to Little Ayton, and continue on into Great Ayton itself.  Probably the recommended route for strollers but, if you choose to puff and pant uphill, you will find a footpath off to your left.  This takes you across a field.  If you’ve timed it right, you could be in for a real treat.

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I don’t think I ever saw such bright, white, new ones!  One of the little fellas had managed to find his way out of the field, and away from the safety of his mother’s side.  He was scrambling frantically to find a way back in, while Ma looked on in exasperation.  I stood politely and quietly by, holding the gate just a little ajar for him.  I didn’t want any adventurous brothers or sisters skipping out to join him. But I need not have worried. With a twitch of his stubby tail, he was under the gate and gone, with barely a backwards glance.

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For us, the trail led on, very muddily, over the railway tracks and back down into the village.  Where finally all of that bunting was explained.

The Tour de Yorkshire is coming to the village on May 1st, and the villagers were out in force, bedecking and festooning with bunting and bikes.

And I’m not done yet!  Past the cascades and along by the river, romantically trailing willows, still there’s more bunting and bikes to see.  I think they’re going to have a high old time on 1st May, don’t you?  I almost wish I could be there.

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As we returned to our car, parked by the riverside, my husband spied a rather lovely magnolia.  I couldn’t quite get close enough for a decent shot, but I found a reward of a different kind.  A tiny raised gate led into the churchyard beyond.  I had stumbled upon James Cook’s childhood church, All Saints, dating from the 12th century.  In this lovely spot, his mother and siblings are buried.

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If you happen to be in the area on May 1st, Stage 3 of ‘Tour de Yorkshire’ starts in Middlesbrough and races down over our beautiful Moors, ending at Scarborough on the north east coast.  Myself, I will be in Poland, but I might just catch a glimpse on the sports news. A map and full details of the route are contained in the links.

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I’m glad I managed to fit in this post, not least because it gives me the opportunity to showcase some amazing walks.  Where else will you find Korcula, the Shropshire Hills and Katmandu, all on the same page?  Please don’t miss any of them.  Huge thanks to all my contributors, and to all of you for your patience in my absence.

I’m going to have to take liberties again, because very early on Thursday I’m off to Poland with Dad.  I don’t return until 12th May and will have only limited internet access whilst there.  If you would like to share a walk in the meantime, you’re very welcome to do so. Details are, as always, on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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If I had to shortlist places to see before I finally vanish, Hawaii might well be on it.  You will enjoy this!

My weekly ramble

And just to totally convince you, Carol’s taking us to a waterfall :

Manoa Falls

Geoff took me to familiar and much loved haunts with this walk :

G is for the Greenwich#atozchallenge 

Becky gave me the gentlest of nudges before I set off for the Algarve.  Isn’t this walking bliss?

On the trail of Nightingales

Anabel finds the loveliest chateau, and a little bit of mud!

Chatelherault

Shakespearean sonnets make for an interesting garden stroll with Trav Trails :

Sonnets and Flowers

And Jackie is out looking for signs of Spring in Toronto :

A Walk along the Humber

Another walk I’d really love to take for myself one day.  Say hello to the folks on this lovely island :

Top Views of Korcula- Walking Route

I love a walk that’s a bit different, and Karen provides exactly that!

The Goods Line

While Gilly takes us for a lunch time romp among the bluebells :

A lunchtime escape

Seriously good ‘value for money’ from Denzil, with a city walk and boat trip too :

How to spend a day in Ghent

A lovely welcome home arrived from Susan.  So like one of my own Tavira beach walks :

Rock Walk 2

And what can you say about Tish?  An astoundingly beautiful return visit for me, which I thoroughly enjoyed :

Happy Earth Day from the Shropshire Hills, some of the world’s Oldest Rock Formations :

I would not have believed it possible to have so much delight on a homecoming.  My cup runneth over, Badfish!

Last Supper in Katmandu

So there we have it, for a couple of weeks.  I have some lovely Algarve walks to share with you, but they’ll have to wait for a little while.  I might try to schedule a post for May 9th, the Monday before I come home, but it would probably be more sensible to wait until 16th.  In the meantime, I will visit and share as much as I can.  Do look after yourselves, won’t you?  And very happy walking!

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Back on the beach

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Whenever we go walking on our north east England coastline, we keep an idle eye open for sea glass.  Usually it’s in milky soft hues, but bottle green and turquoise are not unknown . The little chap above had us well fooled.  He’d obviously swum out of a child’s bucket, to twinkle up at us from the beach.

I won’t be walking with you next week, so I’m determined to leave you with some sunny images.  Last week was a little glum, wasn’t it?

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The other half wanders through the shot, distracting me from getting a level horizon.  The one below is better. (and minus my shadow!)

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The tide was advancing rapidly that day, and I had to do my famous teetering on rocks act, camera stowed safely in my pocket.  Why is it that he has so much better a sense of balance?  He kindly came back to hold my hand, or we might never have got there.

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It’s a coastline with an industrial past, so the rocks are always interestingly speckled and battered.  And there’s the sea glass to enjoy.

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Not forgetting the occasional sea monster!  There’s one structure that always draws the eye.  Rotting timbers and frayed stumps simply add to the appeal of the magnificent remnants of Steetley Magnesite’s pier.

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I never tire of shooting it, from all angles.  The last shot is a good example of convergence, isn’t it?  Sonel pointed one out to me the other day.  If you’re looking for photographic skill combined with creativity, hers is a great place to visit.

At this point you have a choice.  So long as the tide cooperates you can carry on along the craggy coastline, towards Crimdon Dene.

Sometimes the wind whips up, swirling the sands around you.  Click on the last photo in the gallery above and you’ll be able to make out the pier, in the far distance.  We’ve walked quite a way.  You can continue through the Dene, catching a bus back down the coast road, or you can retrace your steps along the beach.

Eventually you come back to Hartlepool Headland, with it’s proudly standing town walls. It’s been a safe haven for me for many a long year.  Look beyond the harbour, and on the horizon you can just make out the industry along Seal Sands Road, where we went seal spotting last week.

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On the Headland, Mary Rowntree’s tearooms have a lovely view across the harbour.  But I feel I know you well enough to invite you back to mine.  I’ll just pop the kettle on.  See you soon!

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My posting will be haphazard, to say the least, for the next month.  I’m deserting this safe haven for my familiar Algarve one, where I usually switch off from the world and its worries.  I hope to have another walk for you on Monday, 25th April, but just a few days after that I will be accompanying Dad to Poland for 2 weeks.  Another family visit and lots of smiles.

If, in the meantime, you’d like to share a walk, please feel free to do so, but be aware that I might not be able to share it for a while. Many thanks for your continuing support.  As usual, the logo above will take you to my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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SO excited to kick off this week with a walk by Lucile!  If you don’t know her, you’re in for a treat (and if you do, you’ll expect the best, and not be disappointed).  AND she’s in Portugal!

Walking through Sights and colours of Lisbon

Introducing a blog called MyScribblez next.  All scribblers amongst you, please pop over and say ‘hi’ :

Quebec on Foot

Drake likes the ladies, especially in an artful pose :

Blooming nudity

The scenery around Greenock is a nice surprise.  Take a look with Anabel :

The Greenock Cut

You won’t be surprised to find that Jackie likes shopping :

St. Lawrence Market

Or that Ellen has a badly behaved dinghy?  Maybe it’s been reformed since this post :

Going for a Walk : Coromandel Town (or Coro pies are best)

Smidge has some nice romantic looking photos from the Scottish Borders :

Dryburgh Abbey & The River Tweed

And Susan… how about close encounters with a good-looking cow or two?

Sadie’s Walk

Denzil got up at the crack of dawn for this walk, so he deserves your appreciation :

GR571 Stage 4 : Trois-Ponts to Vielsam 

And getting me nicely in the mood for the Algarve- thanks a lot, Becky!   Your place or mine?

Exploring the Grande Rota do Guadiana

That’s it folks!  Thanks again for all the shares and for the pleasure you give me.  Take care of yourselves.

 

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Seal sanctuary

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Today’s walk brings us full circle with where my Monday walks began, just over 2 years ago, in Greatham Creek.  Doesn’t time fly? And have I worn you out yet?  There are days when I feel quite weary myself.

On Wednesday I woke with that restlessness upon me.  The sun was playing hide and seek with the clouds and I needed to be out.  My partner in crime suggested Saltholme, the local nature reserve, but somehow that felt too tame.  I don’t do compromise well, but we headed along the Seal Sands Road, in that direction.  It’s an area I find very depressing, and if you saw my Forbidding skies on Thursday, you’ll know what’s coming.

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Heavy industry crowds the skyline, and the power station’s ugly presence broods malignantly nearby.  If you can ignore that, there’s a world of wildlife to explore.  To give it it’s grandest title, this is Teesmouth National Nature Reserve, a site of more than 350 hectares.

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Natural England have recently extended the footpaths and installed bird hides.  Parking on Seal Sands Rd, you can cross over A178 (carefully- you don’t want to be run over by a bus!) and follow the path beside the creek, out towards the sea.  In the distance you can see the Transporter Bridge, in Middlesbrough.  Closer to hand, a family of swans usually enjoy the salt water.

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Looking back, A178 spans the creek, and on the far shore industry looms, threateningly.  But we won’t be intimidated.  A ragged sign on the fence gives a clue to the area’s past.  There are still defence structures to be seen, and if you are interested this document gives full details.

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The skies alternately boil and shimmer, as I follow the path beside the creek, and along to the first bird hide.

If you click on the last shot you might be able to make out the windmills of the offshore wind farm.  Here they look very distant, but it’s not so.

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This is a remnant of the military installations, but history goes much further back.  In Medieval times the area was important for its salt, which was extracted by boiling salt water until the liquid evaporated, leaving behind precious salt crystals.  For thousands of years, the sea swept across the Tees estuary, exposing mudflats and sand bars as it ebbed.  Defensive banks were built against the tides, changing the flow of the currents. Gradually the ground lost its saltiness and became fit for agriculture.  Sheep grazed on the salt marshes, growing the thick fleeces sold by medieval monks to much of Europe.

A second bird hide but a distinct lack of wildlife, though the sign tells us of plenty.  Maybe the birds are all at nearby Saltholme, where they will undoubtedly be better fed.  And then, the strangeness of the brine fields.

The landscape changed enormously after World War II.  In the 1960s the area east of A178 was intensively developed for brine fields and the storage of petrochemicals.  Pollution in the estuary had been heavy, but when Natural England became involved the site became a Special Protection Area.  Careful management and reclamation has helped to restore and maintain the natural habitat.

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Returning along the creek, my sharp eyed companion spots a grey mammal, paddling his leisurely way out to sea.  They are one of the great success stories of the nature reserve.  200 years ago a seal population of around 1000 lived in these mudflats.  A survey in the 1930s failed to reveal any.  They had been decimated by hunting and pollution.  Today there are about 100 seals, and several pups are born each summer.

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Thriving in the midst of all that ugliness.  It’s good to know, isn’t it?  The sign boards ask you to respect the seals privacy and remain behind the hide.  While this may not be the prettiest Landscape, I do hope that you found it interesting.

I know how you all like a cuppa after a walk.  RSPB Saltholme is just 2km south of this site, and the cafe has a panoramic lake view. The website includes a map and full details of the area.

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Two years and more of walking.  It must be time to put the kettle on!  Many thanks to all of you who’ve supported me along the way, and made such wonderful contributions.  Details of how to join me are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  You’ll be made very welcome.

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Riverside walks are among my favourites.  A smattering of history makes them even better.  Thanks, Anabel!

Bothwell and Blantyre

Denzil is leading us intrepidly, step by step, across Belgium :

GR571: Aywaille to Stoumont

Jackie combines sunshine with some rather intriguing sculpture this week :

Lenora Carrington

Liesbet takes us roaming about in Connecticut, just one last time :

A Walk in Housatonic Meadows State Park

Time spent with Drake is absolutely never wasted!

Actually needed more time

Ruth joins us again, amongst some beautiful tree ferns :

Fern Tree to Spring Falls

Something I know you won’t be able to resist!  A trip to Narnia, with Debbie :

From Narnia to Albert Bridge

Just a little optimistic this early?  Elaine goes looking for Bluebells :

In search of Bluebells

Miriam’s got herself great company for her rather cloudy walk :

Meandering in Mount Macedon

Jaspa’s walk was written with Easter very much in mind :

Via Dolorosa, Jerusalem

BiTi is in love with green.  Colour themed walks?  Not a bad idea!

A Study in Green on my walk 

Coincidentally, Geoff is already ahead in this game :

Three Greens 

Please say hello to Patrick, who’s just starting a walking challenge :

52 Hike Challenge- No. 1

And to lovely Pat, ‘living life almost gracefully’, in Florida :

Walk in the Park

This week Susan goes looking for seals, (Snap!) and trying not to tumble over cliffs!

Estero Bluffs Walk

While Pauline captures all of nature with her camera.  Don’t miss this gem!

7 Day Nature Photo : Day 1- a walk in the national Park

That’s it for another week!  Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did.  I have one more walk for you next week and then I will be missing for a little while.  Have a great week everybody!

A note for Joanne : If you’re reading this, there’s a conversation between me and Bill Blackwell, who used to live on the creek, in the comments on my Greatham Creek post.  It starts- “I am one of the lucky kids whose family had a boathouse on the creek. At 80years old my memories go back to when in my opinion the creek was at its best, with more people than seals,yet I very much enjoyed the photos.”

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Wildfowl Waddle and Glide

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Bearing in mind how energetic we were last Monday, I thought that something a little more sedate might suit today.  Hardwick Hall Country Park in Sedgefield, County Durham, is just the place for a gentle stroll.  But that’s not the whole story.  You are probably familiar with my challenging friend, Jude.  Chided to nurture my photographic skills in capturing wildlife, and NOT cheat with inanimate objects, what else could I do?

Clutching the dregs of a box of cornflakes, off I went.  The helpmate had to come too, of course, to obligingly scatter the cornflakes as I poised for action.  And action there was, aplenty!  It seems that swans are extremely efficient hoovers when it comes to cornflakes.

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We used to come to this park when my son was small.  Many battles were fought in the crumbling old fort- some of them just to get him out of there, and home again.  Nobody much seems to clamber in it these days.  Just the odd duck.  A bit of a waste, really.

A park for all seasons, I’ve brought you here a time or two before.  Remember the duck decoy?  And there are quirky sculptures, too.  But fundamental to it all is the lake.  Canada Geese may pretend ownership, but the swans glide imperiously by, cocking a snooty beak.

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There are several smaller ponds, beloved of the coots playing hide and seek among straggling roots, and the soft shimmering reeds.  The Temple of Minerva hints at mystery through the trees.  Just one of the interesting sculptural aspects to this park.

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Crossing over the Serpentine Bridge, the path leads to fens and a boardwalk.  A new little bird hide has been installed, and our feathered friends are delighted to preen a little while they feast on nuts.  We are equally delighted to quietly spectate.

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I’m so used to seeing the folly of a Gothic Ruin that it no longer seems strange to me.  Designed in the Palladian style, by architect James Paine, the gardens are an unusual example of 18th century landscape design.  The cafe, however, is a stylish new build.  That doesn’t prevent it from doing a very creditable old fashioned Victoria Sponge and Bakewell Tart.  I did a good impersonation of those swans as I hoovered up my sizeable portion. Crumbs don’t make much of a photo, do they?

Hoping for a tiny morsel, a robin loitered nearby, teasingly out of camera range.  So, I had to settle for a couple of very cute ducks.

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You might have noticed that Jude has been breaking her own rules lately.  Who better?  Pop over and join in her Garden Challenge. You have until the end of March to post some Wildlife.  Meantime let’s put the kettle on.  Time to settle in for a good read.

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Huge thanks to all my contributors for joining me again this week.  I love having your company, whether you’re a walker or not. Please feel free to send me a walk.  The details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page or click on the logo above.

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Lots of happy and willing sharers again this week.  Let’s get Smidge to start us off :

A weekend in the Clyde Valley : New Lanark and the Elphinstone Hotel 

I don’t know why but paddles and Mersey come to mind?  Strange brain I have!  Sorry, Debs!

Across the Forth without a Ferry

Serene in New Zealand this week, with Ellen and a few cows!

Going for a Walk : Motutapu Walkway

South of the Border, one last time (sob!), with Jackie :

Bucerias, Mexico

To the beach with Amy, enjoying the beauty, as she always does :

Monday Walk : Rockport Beach, Texas

Being ‘sinister’ with Anabel in Scotland?  No, not really!

Irvine and the Scottish Maritime Museum

Liesbet doesn’t make the leap, so don’t worry!  Maybe another time?

A Walk in Lover’s Leap State Park, CT

Feeling social this week?  Please go along and say ‘hi’ to Joan :

Having a Social Hike with absolutely Blissful Views

Such a pretty sequence of images!  Meet BiTi from Pret-a-Vivre online magazine :

Our first walk together in 2016

And, as ever, along comes Drake to brighten the day :

Pics up last Summer

Closely followed by Elisa and Dumbo- not the Disney favourite!

Walking the Brooklyn Bridge

My friend Meg will love this next walk, so thank you, Susan, for making us both happy :

Rock Walk 

Richard is standing up for Cornish walks and beaches.  Jude will be very happy with that :

Best walks with a view : Trevone to St. Merryn 

And, in case you missed the link at the start of my post, here’s the lady herself :

Garden Portrait : Knightshayes Court

That’s it for another week.  I hope to have a post for you on Easter Monday but I haven’t quite decided where yet.  My daughter and husband are arriving on Thursday evening, so I’m busy and excited.  I hope the weather allows you to get out and about, but if not there’s always chocolate. Have a wonderful time!

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Through the Valley

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Handsome chap, isn’t he?  You’ll meet him later.  I often accompany my husband if he’s out on a job and it’s a nice day.  He goes to work and I go off to play. Almost fair, isn’t it?  This week he was back in Saltburn and after two dreary, wet days I was determined to find myself a walk. The day was still a little overcast but I had high hopes.

My walk started on Marske Mill Road, on the outskirts of Saltburn, where I had spotted a public footpath sign.  The path tumbled quite rapidly downhill and soon I was at a junction.  The branch to my left was clearly signed ‘Valley Gardens’, but the more tantalising option had no marked destination.  It’s obvious which I chose, isn’t it?  This was my reward.

Viaducts are always an arresting sight, especially when they appear unexpectedly.  The ground was quite moist, and I could hear the chuckling sound of water.  Intrigued and captivated, I followed a concrete path which led me beneath the viaduct.

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Ahead, a metal bridge crosses the churning stream.  Aged sleepers form steps and the path leads up, beside the viaduct.  A hint of blue had appeared in the sky and soon the bare woodlands are transformed.  I exchange greetings with a couple of dog walkers and stop to admire the tree patterns cast by the sun.  This little chap, sitting on the path, was most suspicious of my activities.

I fell into step with his owner and we began to chat.  I had assumed that the path would lead me back into Saltburn at some point. Completely wrong!  We were headed inland, in the direction of Skelton village, where she lived.  The notorious sense of direction working well again.  I enjoyed her company a little further, but then decided to retrace my steps the short distance back to the viaduct. By now the pale sunlight had begun to sneak into crevasses, and glint on the frothing water.

Back across the bridge I went, and up to the junction where the sign so clearly announced ‘Valley Gardens’.  I may have taken the wrong turn, but I was quite delighted by my little escapade.  The woodland gardens were now washed in gentle sunshine- that welcoming bench, not too far ahead.

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Joyful Spring burgeonings were everywhere as I followed the path through the woods.  Just above the formal Italian gardens, a quirky little corner is being developed by the Friends of the Valley- a Bumblebee Bistro.  It’s good to see the nurturing process continue in these Valley Gardens, which date right back to 1860.  The mischief in me wants to link this post to Jude and her Wildlife Garden, but I know I’ll get no thanks!

You might remember these beguiling mosaics from my last visit to Saltburn.  At the Woodlands Centre, created to encourage children to interact with nature, I managed to find some more.  Appealing to adults, too, I think.  Cute badger and bunnies!

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The Valley Gardens Tearooms is a nice little spot to sit beneath the trees, but I needed to press on through the valley.  I wasn’t too sure how much time I had, but you’ll be pleased to know that I did make a stop at Camfields.  It’s a favourite of mine for its friendly service, not to mention cakes.

A quick text message established that I had half an hour left to play.  Just time for one last treat.  I’m heading for the cliff top.  Can you keep up?

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The path leads up to the cliffs from just behind ‘The Ship Inn’.  There you can join the Cleveland Way, a superb 110 mile coastal walk. Just three and a half miles away, the first stop is Skinningrove.  But I think that’s enough for one day.  Don’t you?

I may have rambled a little today but this map from National Trails will give you an excellent overview of my walk.  I hope you enjoyed it?  Definitely time to put the kettle on, and settle in for a good read.

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Many thanks to all my lovely contributors.  My Monday walks wouldn’t be the same without you.  If you’re new here you can find details of how to join in on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.  You’ll be made very welcome.

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Last week, Paula gave me a beautiful start to the walks :

Live musically

LOTS of warnings accompany this one from Ellen.  For the brave (or a trifle  foolhardy)!

Going for a Walk : Tongariro Alpine Crossing (Or why do my legs hurt?)

If I said to you STILL in Mexico you’d know I meant Jackie :

Monday Walk- Puerto Vallarta

Make time for pelicans with Amy!  Well worth a wait :

Monday Walk : Making time for the Sunset

Not sure that I fancy ‘mouse water’ but I trust Anabel’s judgement :

Lanark and the Mouse Water

Morro Beach looks blissful!  Come and have a morning stroll with Susan :

California Coastal Walk

Always a smile with Drake!  How can you resist the man?

Let’s call it Sandy 

Some sterling Scottish vistas from Smidge (no, I didn’t say ‘Stirling’) :

Dawdling at Dawyck Botanic Gardens

And a wonderful panorama from Rosemay in Perth (no, not that one either!)

Checking Out Elizabeth Quay

So much colder in Canada!  Get your top coat out for this one :

Kananaskis, Alberta

But Gilly has found glorious Springtime for us :

The Day We’ve All Been Waiting For

Another week of fabulous contributions.  Thank you everybody and I hope you have a great week.

Note to Jude- there’s a dog, and he’s wild!  Well, quite cross, anyway.

Jo’s Monday walk : Springtime in Shincliffe

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“Where will I find a crocus walk?” I asked my garden expert husband.  “I’ve searched the web and can’t find one anywhere!”  He gave me one of those looks, and said “You can’t find one, because there isn’t one.  You’ll have to make do with snowdrops.”  Now, I have nothing against snowdrops. Most years I visit our local snowdrop walk, in Greatham village.  I simply felt a need for the uplifting surge of crocus colour.

Never one to let me down, as we drove towards Durham he said thoughtfully, “What about Shincliffe Village?”  It seemed like a good idea.  IMG_3922

We parked in Durham and walked out along the river- a direction we’ve taken many times before.  From nowhere, one of those sparkling Spring days had materialised.  Rowing teams skulled by vigorously, and the whole world seemed to have taken up sport.  A university town, Durham has no shortage of able-bodied youth to indulge in running, throwing and kicking a ball. 

One side of the river is still barriered off, following a serious landslide a year or so ago.  I was delighted to see that work has finally started on the precarious river bank.  The path will be open again to walkers.  A gentle sun filtered through bare branches, reflecting ethereally in the river.

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Out beyond the extensive sports facilities, the path meets the A177 at Shincliffe Bridge.  Cross over the busy road carefully and you reach ‘The Rose Tree’- a pub with an inviting beer garden.  A sign directs you to Shincliffe Village.  As you enter the village, you’ll see the Poplar Tree  garden centre.  Always busy, I’m never sure if the plants or the tea rooms are the main attraction.  Beyond this point no-one but the inhabitants of the village seem to venture.  Which is a great shame, unless of course you are a villager and value your peace and quiet.

Did I mention crocuses?  I had a real treat in store.  And not only the crocus, but a bevy of Spring beauty.

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Shincliffe is regarded as one of the most affluent villages in Durham, according to Wikipedia.  Which is a pity as I could quite see myself living there. I was surprised to find that the Anglo-Saxon origin of the name Shincliffe means ‘steep hill of evil spirits’.  The history of the village goes back to Roman times, when there is thought to have been a ford where Shincliffe Bridge now spans the River Wear.

In the Middle Ages Shincliffe belonged to the Prior of Durham Cathedral.  It was a largely agricultural community until coal mining came to the area, with a resulting expansion.  I was unaware that Shincliffe had had a railway station, but it was in fact Durham’s first. It opened in 1839, as part of the line to Sunderland, but closed again in 1893.  The closure of the colliery meant a dwindling population.  Shincliffe today is a gentle haven, seeming to have not a care in the world.

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A small green leads to a row of raised houses, set back from the road.  Originally the Durham to Stockton road ran right through the village.  The post office would have been a busy place then.  Now it’s a private residence.  In 1826 a tithe barn was consecrated to become a Chapel of Ease for the community.  It proved a little too cold and draughty, and in 1866 became the Rectory.

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John Wesley is known to have preached in Shincliffe in 1780, and in 1874 a Methodist (Wesleyan) chapel was opened- the pretty one in the photos. The parish church, St. Mary the Virgin, was  only completed in 1851.  Snowdrops swaddled the graveyard in a soothing white blanket.  I lingered, reading a few headstones and admiring the rose coloured church doors.

I peered through the windows of the Seven Stars Inn rather longingly.  It was already lunchtime but my husband had to get back for an appointment. Go and press your nose up against their menu.  You might be tempted.  Alternatively, try the Brambles tea rooms at the garden centre, or maybe The Rose Tree.  For me, it’s a swift walk back along the river, but not before I look for Shincliffe Hall.  A sign points to it, down a private road.  But it’s by invitation only.

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There are some interesting snippets of village history, if you’re minded that way, under the link ‘steep hill of evil spirits’.  Shincliffe is easy to find from the city of Durham.  Do you know of a ‘crocus walk’ near you?  I hope you enjoyed mine.  Spring is wonderful, isn’t it?

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Many thanks to all of you who keep me company each week.  I do appreciate you looking over my shoulder and enjoying the view.  If you’d like to join in with a walk of your own, you’d be very welcome.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walks page.  Just click on the logo above.

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The joy of having a son.  Ask Jesh- she’ll tell you!

Going The Distance

Anabel’s found a mural by one of my favourite street artists :

Saints and sinners : a Glasgow urban walk

Smidge had me packing my bags to head for the Borders with this post :

St Abbs, Scottish Borders

Jackie is STILL strolling around in Mexico!  Would you credit it?

Around Puerto Vallarta

Amy has some ravishing gardens for us this week :

Monday Walk : Selby Gardens

Two ‘newbies’ up next!  Please say a big hello to Liesbet :

Walking and Seeing the Real Berkshires in Connecticut

And then please meet slightly offbeat sailor Ellen!

Going for a walk in search of Wild Pigs

If you don’t mind getting awfully wet, you might like a ‘walk’ with Jaspa?

Climbing Jamaican Waterfalls

Or maybe an adventure in the desert with Drake would suit you better?

Amazing outskirts

Perhaps you’d like to see another side to Geoff?  You’ll have to go and look.  I can’t give the game away!

To the woods, to the woods

While Denzil tries his hand (or feet?) at long distance walking :

GR571 : Comblain-au-Pont to Aywaille

Paul does some amazing things with the Scottish countryside :

RAW around the edges.  A day at Loch Leven

And lastly, Lee Ann shows us some of beautiful Brisbane :

Southbank Gardens of Friendship

Hope you enjoyed all the contributions.  They’re fantastic, aren’t they?  Many thanks again for your lovely company.  Have a great week!.

Jo’s Monday walk : Souter Lighthouse

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My part of the north east coast of England is littered with lighthouses!  The jagged coastline traditionally needed the big guys to flash a warning to passing ships.  Times have changed, but the coastline remains as rugged as ever.

Souter Lighthouse was the first in the world to be designed and built specifically to use alternating electric current.  The lighthouse opened in 1871, and was decommissioned in 1988.  It continued as a radio navigation beacon until 1999, when it was finally closed. Today the National Trust own the property and open it to the public.

It’s only a couple of weeks since I was at Roker lighthouse, on a properly murky day.  This walk heads north from there, along the cliffs to the magnificent lighthouse at Souter.  There’s a long promenade backing the fine stretch of beach, perfect for galloping horses.  A straggle of charming houses follow the bay.  I’m tempted to take a seat.

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Did you spot the fish restaurant sign?  Latimers boast smoked haddock, leek and potato pasties.  Noted, for later.  A sign on the cliff top claims 6 and three-quarter miles to the Tyne Ferry.  We won’t be going that far.  The smooth expanse of beach left behind, below us rocks scatter the shoreline. Fascinating grooves and grottoes hug the cliff’s base.  The potential for shipwreck is easy to see.

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Ahead, in the grass, a stone circle has been formed, not unlike a maze.  I don’t understand its significance, but there are old military bunkers nearby. The track is a little slippy from recent rain and, peering at the rock formations below, I lose my footing.  No damage done!  But, looking at the seat of my jeans, I realise that I’m not quite presentable enough for a restaurant.  I hope you weren’t looking forward to that pastie.

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My favourite part of the walk lies ahead.  The stacks teeter at the water’s edge, harbouring only gulls on lookout duty.  A first glimpse of Souter’s flamboyant red appears on the horizon.  Nearing, I can see the indentations in the rock face, and the stranded islets, clinging to shore.

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And then the cove known as The Wherry.  In former times there was a Lad’s Wherry and a Lassie’s Wherry, for fishing expeditions and picnics in the bay.  A central rock split the bay in two.  Nowadays, in part due to erosion, the sea separates the rock from the shoreline at high tide.

Souter lighthouse is about 3 miles south of the River Tyne.  Beyond the river, 7 miles to the north, St. Mary’s lighthouse at Whitley Bay is a sister Victorian lighthouse to Souter.  With good visibility, the one can be seen from the top of the other.

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I love the sound of a foghorn but, were I married to a mariner, the sound would fill me with dread.  The Souter foghorn has seen several incarnations, and is still occasionally sounded on special event days at the lighthouse.

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Souter lighthouse was revolutionary.  Quoting from Wikipedia, “the 800,000 candle power light was generated using carbon arcs and not an incandescent light bulb, and could be seen for up to 26 miles.  In addition to the main light a red/white sector light shone from a window in the tower below the lantern, to highlight hazardous rocks to the south; it was powered using light diverted (through a set of mirrors and lenses) from the landward side of the main arc lamp.”  As Souter was never automated, it remains pretty much in its original operational state.  I thought that this might make a good subject for Paula’s Traces of the Past.

The grassed area north of Souter was once a thriving mining community of 700 people.  It was completely demolished after the mine closure in 1968, and the population rehoused in new council housing in Whitburn.  A brief history of Souter can be found on the National Trust website, along with details of opening times and how to get there.

Now I know that you will be worrying about your stomach by now.  Latimers having been ruled out, I’m glad to inform you that the lighthouse has its own very pleasant cafe.  Would you like to try a ‘Singing hinnie’?  A warm griddle scone.

Sadly I cannot take you into the lighthouse.  It was half term on my visit and very busy, I’m pleased to say.  Maybe another time?  You might also like my Roker Pier walk.  I’m up to my second cup of coffee this morning, after a spectacular sunrise. Please put the kettle on and join me in a visit to some great blogs.walking logo

Many thanks to all of you who contributed this week.  I’m really happy you can still find time to join me.  For any newcomers, you can find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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Benches or snow?  Which is it to be?  Let’s start with a Gallivant in the woods!

Cashel Forest

I’ve never been to Mexico, but Jackie’s making up for me.  Puerto Vallarta this week :

Sunday Photo and Monday Walk

Amy finds the perfect bench for Jude, while I just laze on the beach!

Monday Walk : A Beach Walk and February Garden : Monochrome

I was blissfully happy with Drake this week, even wearing my gloves!

Cool art in winter mood

Turns out I couldn’t even say this correctly, but now I’ve had lessons from Smidge :

Culross, Fife

I just about managed to avoid getting splashed by Debbie this week :

Broadstairs to Margate : an easy coastal walk

Or absolutely drowned by Jaspa!

Rough Seas Off Land’s End, Cornwall

Wild water doesn’t seem to stop life from happening Down Under, with Pauline and Jack :

Amazing sights at the beach

Finishing with spectacular beauty in Hawaii!  I’ve told Carol I’m green  🙂

Eyeing the Needle

Thanks again, everyone!  I love having your company.  Have a great week!  If you’re needing some travel inspiration, pop over to Monday Escapes. See you there!

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha da Pena

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Some walks are a really hard act to follow.  After last week’s Almond Blossom Trail, in blissful sunshine, I was really looking forward to taking you to the heights of Rocha da Pena.  I envisioned the landscape, dropping away below me, and my eyes gazing far out to sea. Unfortunately, the dismal cloud wrapped around the rock had other ideas.  Every day in the Algarve cannot be paradise, can it?  But what I can offer you is good company, some wonderful plant species, and… oh, yes- cake!  What’s a little drizzle between friends?

The drive out into the Algarve countryside is beautiful in itself.  A little challenging, and you do have to like hairpin bends.  This is another walk that features in the Walking Trails in the Algarve, (p.72) and once you arrive the signage is good.  The walk begins beside a cafe, Bar das Grutas, and a strong coffee is just the thing to set you up.  Don’t expect a smile from the proprietor, however.  Or maybe it was just the weather!  Taking a look at those clouds, I think we’d better get going!

It’s uphill, of course, but not too steep, and there’s plenty to hold your interest.  Plants nestle in unsuspected places.  I’m walking with a group and every now and then a voice sings out ‘don’t miss this one!’  I’m being teased a little, but I like it.  The challenge is to keep up with the group, yet still record my individual delights.

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There are a few signboards, pointing out things of interest, and I’m reminded of the fires that swept this mountain range, soon after we’d bought our Algarve home.  Driving along the coast, or even down on the beach, a black pall of smoke could be seen on the horizon.  It must have been terrifying to be up here, as the fires raged for 4 days, in 2004.  Hard to imagine on this moist day, when so much has renewed and revitalised.

I’m soon on the hunt for the wild bee orchids which, I discover, like this predominantly calcareous outcrop.  I can’t be cross with the weather when I learn that late January/early February is the perfect time to see them, rain or shine.  The plateau rises to a height of 479 metres at Talefe, which roughly translates as ‘trig point’.  All this richness and diversity has led to the Rocha being a ‘Special Protected Area’, by law.

The boards also refer to narcissus calcicola, which I take to be a simple daffodil. I’m wildly excited when I come upon a carpet of these tiny beauties, so much smaller than any I have seen before.  I think I probably have more than one variety here.

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Up on the heights, with the daffodils, lie the remains of a defensive stone wall, believed to date back to the Iron Age.  It’s been attributed to Celtic people who lived on the Iberian peninsula in pre-Roman times. (6th-1st century BC)

There are caves you can explore, currently inhabited by two locally endangered species of bat.  The largest cave, known as ‘Moor’s Grotto’, was used as a final desperate refuge in the 13th century, according to legend.  The Almohad Moors tried to hide there, before being slain by the Portuguese troops of King Afonso III.

After a speck or two of drizzle, a tantalising glimpse of hazy sunlight appears in the distance, as we drop back down the trail.  I look wistfully towards the open door of an unlikely ‘Mini Museum’ in the village of Penina, quietly going about it’s business.  But my walking friends have lunch firmly in mind.  No loitering allowed!  I guess I’ll have to come back, on a sunnier day, and perhaps do the walk in reverse.

If you’re thinking you’ve seen that door before somewhere, it was one of many in Life is full of choices.  Within a matter of minutes we’re back to our start point, and not a moment too soon as the skies open.  The Bar das Grutas supplies food, but we hop into cars and head for the village of São Romão, near São Bras de Alportel, where we have a reservation.  A warm welcome awaits us at Cafe Correia.  And cake, of course!

I’m including a link to an excellent website, Walk Algarve, where you will find full details of the geology, and flora and fauna to be found at Rocha da Pena, with a little more history.  And now, that cake’s made me thirsty.  Time to put the kettle on.

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Thanks everybody for keeping me company on my walks, and for entertaining me with yours.  I hope you enjoyed this one and, if you have a walk you’d like to share, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walks page.  Just click on the logo above.

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I’m not a huge fan of snow but if anything could persuade me… Anabel just might :

Canadian Rockies : Lake Louise

And Colline gave it a good try!  Canada definitely seems to be the place for it :

A Walk in the Snow

Come over to the ‘dark side’ with Drake?  He does it beautifully!

Abandoned walk

Congratulate Jesh?  She deserves it!

A Short Diversion

Me and Jackie, still singing, down Mexico way!  And why wouldn’t we?

Monday walk : Guadalajara

Jaspa does go to some fascinating places!  I’d really like to visit this one :

The Templar Tunnels of Acre, Israel 

A little summertime warmth, Down Under, with Rosemay would be good too :

The French Connection : Bunker Bay

Geoff and his dog go bounding through the sand dunes!

Life’s a Beach#glorioussuffolk 

While Snowdon Student takes a break from his studies to head for the hills again :

Relaxing by Llyn Idwal

Jude is busy getting ready to move to Cornwall, but still found time to share.  That’s a friend for you!

Scrobbesbyrig/Shrewsbury : Town Trail Part 1 

It looks a bit busy in Macau, for me.  Anyone been there?  Thanks, Lee Ann!

A stroll through the Old Town of Macau

Pauline gave me an early morning nudge this morning!

Early morning beach walk

I’m well and truly re-acclimatised to the UK again.  Not sure where to take you next week, but I’m pretty sure we’ll be walking somewhere.  Many thanks again, and I hope you all have a great week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Amendoeira (Almond) Trail

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True sign of Spring, and a sight to gladden the heart- almond blossom.  This is what the Algarve in February means to me, though the sky may not always be so blue. (but that’s next week’s walk)  Again I’m taking you up into the hills, and you’ll need a map to follow. Our start point is the village of Cruz de Alta Mora, inland from the River Guadiana.  The road dips and sways through unheard of villages.  There are occasional bus stops along the way, but nary a person waiting.  Does this look like an inviting place to start a walk?

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I rather thought so.  The sign pointed towards the village of Soalheira, and a trail led off through the welcoming carpet of false yellowhead.

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You might have noticed a tendency I have to find walks with hills in them?  The walking guide I was using gives an indication of the ‘ups and downs’, and I always look to see how strenuous it might become. (but then often do the walk anyway, if it’s not too long)  In this case the steepest incline comes right at the end of the walk.  One of the signboards in the village of Alta Mora described the trail as the way of the cabra Algarvia– the Algarvean Goat- so I shouldn’t have been at all surprised to come upon a pen full of them.

Did you spot the ruined windmill on the top of the hill?  Or the ginger cat in that sparse grass? ( you can click on the photo to make it easier)  I was headed upwards, but initially it wasn’t too steep.  If you wanted the view from the top, that comes at a cost…

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And then it’s far behind you, and you can see the next village ahead.  Looking back at my photos I can see I got a little carried away on this walk, but it was quite hard not to.  Aside from the blossom, I am enamoured of the wild cistus.  I find this countryside almost impossible not to love.

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After Caldeirao, the trail idles through the greenest of valleys, then rises somewhat surprisingly to a tarmac road.  There, nestled in the landscape and unmentioned in the guide, a tiny cafe awaits.  This is the point at which all thoughts of walking might well disappear out of the window.  Or, more appropriately, off the enticing balcony.  Laundry dangles over the valley below.  The scene is only despoiled by a cacophony of compounded dogs.  A puppy in the cafe garden twitches its nose at visitors, while Mum snoozes determinedly in the sun.

I know that many of you will be disappointed at the non-appearance of cake.  I will humbly make amends in my next walk.  For now, I need to head on to the idyllic, though partially abandoned, villages of Funchosa em Cima and de Baixo. (upper and lower)

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It’s a steep climb back out of the valley and then roll down into the next, Ribeira do Beliche.  I spot a donkey in a courtyard, his back firmly turned to me.  I edge closer, but pause when my husband reminds me they do a wicked back kick.  A shot under cover of planters will have to do!

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There are river crossings to be made.  A few uneven stones straddle the water, and I end up with one wet foot.  No matter- it’s a warm day. Crouched by the side of the water, I spot some tiny delicate orchids.  Funny how similar they are to some I’ve seen on the cliffs at home.  Alas, my shots are horribly blurred, so I’ll simply tell you that next week I have a different orchid, which I found very exciting.

I cross the stream a second time, a little more successfully, and then begins that last, long slog up the hill, which leads, eventually, back to our start point.   Not for the feint hearted!  You don’t want to watch me, so I’ll end with a delicacy of blossom.  Is it ever possible to have too much?

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Phew!  I have to say I’m rather tired after all that, and just have the energy to point you towards Walking Trails in the Algarve, where this walk appears, right near the end, at p. 144.   Full details of how to get there are given in the guide.  And now, the kettle on, I think! 

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Thank you all for your tolerance while I was away.  I tried to keep up as best I could, but managed to miss a few of you.  Amends made here, I hope. Once again I have some wonderful contributions.  If you possibly can, please find the time to read them.  And maybe even join me on a walk next week?  Shorter, I promise!  Details on Jo’s Monday walk page or the logo above.

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Drake’s timing was simply wonderful!

Hit the road

Tobias always makes such good use of his ‘props’  :

Walk on Beach

Debbie just can’t resist a shot or two on the way to work!  Or anywhere, really…

Misty Walk Along the Thames

Fancy making your own Tequila?  You just need blue agave plants!  Cheers, Jackie!

Monday Walk : Tequila, Mexico

Amy takes us back to visit the exotic Ringling home.  What a beauty!

Monday Walk : Ca’ d’Zan

The national parks in the States look larger than life, don’t they?  I’d love to visit!

Arches National Park, Utah

Somewhere else I wouldn’t mind to try- Hawaii!  Have a wander with Carol :

A Walk Along Front Street

Waking to snow is not my idea of fun, but in the Rockies you’d expect it, and Anabel looks pleased :

Canadian Rockies : Num-ti-jah Lodge

My daughter spent her birthday and 3rd wedding anniversary in Edinburgh, and fully endorses Smidge’s recommendations :

Edinburgh ‘must do’ : Edinburgh Castle

Gilly would like my goats, wouldn’t she?  Her dogs might not be so keen :

Walking the Goat to the Bowling Green

And Jill just scraped in, in the early hours of this morning.  I haven’t even had time to read it yet, but I will!

Biking the shores of Inle

I woke to snow this morning, looking oh, so pretty, outside my window.  I haven’t had time to ‘enjoy’ it yet, but hopefully?  Once again, my thanks to all.  For those of you I saw on Saturday, Vincent and Flavia were fabulous!  Have a great week, and see you soon.