Eastern Algarve

Tavira House Hotel

The lounge with its extraordinary ceiling

The ballroom, with its extraordinary ceiling

Having a home in Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve, I don’t normally devote space to local hotel reviews. But there’s always an exception, isn’t there, and this is it.

I was leafing through the East Algarve Magazine when an article on Tavira House Hotel caught my eye. I didn’t recollect seeing it and no address was supplied, but it was stated to be within the old castle walls of the town. It looked very beautiful and my curiosity was piqued. A stroll through Tavira is never a hardship, especially one with a purpose, and the hotel wasn’t too very difficult to find.

The front door was closed and I stood gazing up at the balcony, trying to get some impression of the inside. Rather taking me by surprise, a young man appeared at the window. “Would you like to come up?” he enquired. I couldn’t have been more delighted!

At number 47

I could just make out the dim outline of a chandelier

The reality was beautiful

And the gilded swans, a complete masterpiece

Casa Alice, as the house was originally called, was built in 1860 for a high-ranking Portuguese army officer. It was a maze of corridors and false walls, allegedly for hiding his many mistresses. When it was purchased by the present owner it had been uninhabited for 20 years and was in a poor state of repair. By 2006 permission had been obtained to renovate this listed and protected building. The work, over 8 years, was laborious but the finished result is a triumph.

Nuno Reis, the young hotel manager, was extremely pleasant and happy for me to look around and take photos. The only exception was the bedrooms, because the hotel was fully occupied, but an offer was extended for me to come and view one the following week. The Mediterranean Diet Fair was in full swing in the town, and the 9 bedrooms were all needed.

The folk troupe, in ‘full swing’!

Being fully engaged in the fair, I never managed a return, but the website gives a very good impression of the bedrooms, and I’m sure they’ll be of a standard with the rest of this immaculate building. They are named for flowers that grow locally and range from a small double, accented in gold, the Mimosa, to the Geranium suite at the top of the house. Beamed ceilings and a view over the rooftops of Tavira makes the latter rather special.

The dining room, with a touch of flamboyance

A snippet of the outside space

Fireplace and paneled walls

And that wonderful ceiling detail, again

Spend a little time on the website. It will tell you about the preservation of the Algarvian arched walls and the painstaking reconstruction of the unique ballroom ceiling. In the ‘Explore Tavira’ section, there’s also a link to an engaging Daily Telegraph article about the town. You don’t just have to take my word for it- it’s a beautiful place! And I would be more than happy to stay at Tavira House Hotel.

Jo’s Monday walk : Santa Luzia

The patron saint of the village

I could wander around Santa Luzia all day and every day. So many of the houses are clothed in beautiful azulejo tiles. Just 2 km west of Tavira, this fishing village has an identity all of its own. Modern housing has been added, and a new seafront promenade since my first visit, more than 10 years ago. Yet somehow this village is timeless and defies outsiders to change its true nature. Would you like to share it with me? We’ll take just a slow walk today. There’s plenty of time.

The waterfront is where I usually start

It’s an easy place to spend time

The palm trees don’t provide much shade, but there are plenty of cafes lining the waterfront. It’s a place where you could idle away many an hour, just watching and wondering. Avenida Duarte Pacheco is the village’s main street and behind it there are only a handful of others. Getting lost really isn’t an option, but you’re welcome to try.

A typical house on Duarte Pacheco, next to a cafe

Every street has its patterns

Some adorning lovely old houses with balconies

And a protective saint

Or a family name

The street signs are lyrical (Baker’s St.)

Isn’t this just beautiful?

I’m going to be a very lazy tour guide today and simply let you wander. The details that appeal to each of us are different, aren’t they? I think you should have time to choose where to linger.

Choose a street and head inland

There’s a small square with the church

Some of the tiles have seen better days

While some houses are grander

And newly whitewashed

The whole seems to me to blend together. The locals go about their business, paying little heed to the tourists. I always venture a smile and ‘Bom dia’ and without fail there is a response.

Splashes of colour call out to me everywhere

And those details that I love

The tiles not always to my taste

But so many things please the eye

I’m going to be just a little naughty now. You remember my fondness for boats? For just 3 or 4 months in Summer a ferry runs from Santa Luzia across to the ilha, Tavira Island. It’s only a 10 minute crossing, so just about time to get comfortable. One of the nice things, though, is the opportunity it gives you to observe Santa Luzia from the water. Would you like to see? And if you’re full of energy, you can have a swift stride down the beach. I’ll be right with you!

The ferry’s in!

And away we go

Past the fishing fleet

And working boats

Across the channel of water

And we’re there!

Pulled up at the ‘ilha’

Looking back towards Tavira as the ferry departs

There’s plenty of space down at the beach

Or you could collect up umbrellas

Or maybe a quick paddle?

And then it’s back on board

And return to Santa Luzia

Not so bad, was it? Just one last look at Santa Luzia and you’ll want to eat. Casa do Polvo, at the eastern end of the front, is great if you’re an octopus fan. On some evenings you can listen to fado there too, and even join in and sing a little if the fancy takes you. Away from the front there are a number of small restaurants. Most will feed you well. It’s just a matter of taste.

Another lovely street sign

And yet more tile patterns

A collection of quirky chimney pots

And a letter box I love!

I’m hoping you enjoyed this week’s walk. Not too strenuous, was it? And the Eastern Algarve is easy on the eye, I always think?

Next week will be an English walk and very different. I’m going to my daughter’s in Nottingham next weekend and will be travelling back on the Monday. I’m going to attempt to schedule a walk. I’ve never done that before but am hoping it’s easy. If all else fails, I will be home by teatime and will post the walk then. Wish me luck!

Wow! What a week! So many fantastic entries. You’re definitely going to need a cuppa, or even two, to read your way through. I’m off to put the kettle back on. Thank you so much, everybody, for joining Jo’s Monday walk. The details are in my logo.

I simply love Drake’s Beatles walk! :

Let it be

The Botanical Garden in Zagreb is beautiful! Thanks for sharing, Paula :

Monday Walk in the Botanical Garden

And, in case you missed it, atmospheric castle ruins near Bratislava, also in Paula’s delightful company :

A walk around Devin Castle

Meg tackled a tricky one this week. All in a good cause! :

On Nerrigundah Ridge

My lovable friend Cathy is finding her way around Nanning in China. Go and say ‘hi’ please? :

A Monday morning walk on Campus

A water lily from Israel! And incredibly beautiful, thanks, Cardinal :

Water Lily Porn

Gardens! Gardens! And more lovely gardens! Thanks, Jude :

Garden Portrait : Westonbury Mill Water Gardens

Garden Portrait : Sezincote

Fabulous, aren’t they? And wait till you see Amy’s playful walk beside the river! :

Walking along the river

A town with less than 1000 residents but lots of history is Yvette’s contribution :

A walk in Scotsville, VA

And from California, please give a warm welcome to Elena :

Big Bear Lake

With a destination that keeps getting higher on my ‘must see’ list, Debbie’s sharing a real beauty! Treat yourself- say ‘hello’ :

Walking on Top of the World in Marseille

And in this topsy turvy world of ours, Pauline is beautifully immersed in Spring. Don’t miss it!

Totally immersed in the splendour of Spring

That’s it for now, folks. Have a very splendid week and happy walking!

Six word Saturday

The tents were up- show time!

The row of white tents transform the riverside

Whenever there’s a fair or an event, a sea of little white tents mushroom along the riverside at Tavira. Usually it’s confined to one bank of the river, alongside the gardens. When I saw tents lining both river banks, I knew something big was happening. The second Mediterranean Diet Fair had come to town!

Time to eat healthy!

Some of the products on display didn’t quite fit with my idea of healthy eating, but it’s all about selling as much as you can of locally produced goods. You’ll see what I mean.

Anyone got a sweet tooth?

As the sun goes down the atmosphere builds

The tents look so cute

But most people just want to eat!

Maybe sample a little chocolate?

I tasted- it was delicious!

And of course there’s cake!

And more cake!

And you’re bound to try the ginja liqueur, in a chocolate cup

It’s not just food. There are all kinds of things to buy. Owls, for instance!

Anyone have a weakness for owls?

In cork?

Or as tealights?

The cork was used for larger products too

And there were some rather strange things!

The local shopkeepers are not always so keen on these events. They take away precious customers. But most people are happy to browse a little.

Casa das Portas is ever popular

And Karisma always looks very inviting

With its pretty ceramic tiles

The chimneys are very popular tile patterns

But l especially liked this piece! How about you?

I hope you enjoyed your Saturday browse round the shops and stalls. The fair was accompanied by entertainment every evening too. What a treat! The Eastern Algarve usually is, I find.

Don’t forget to play Six word Saturday will you? Cate at Show My Face is our hostess and will tell you the ‘rules’. Have a happy weekend!

Jo’s Monday walk : Ilha da Culatra

Shall we start with a ferry ride?

This week’s walk is on the island of Culatra, so you’ll have the added bonus of a ferry ride- always irresistible to me. But for those of you who are poor sailors, let me assure you of gentle, calm waters. I referred briefly to Culatra in my I is for Ilhas (islands) post and I thought it might be time to take a closer look. I think you might like it.

Departure points for the ilha are from the city of Faro, the Algarve’s capital, or from the nearby fishing town, Olhão. It’s a short 30 minute sailing from the latter. The ferries depart at 9.00, 11.00, 15.00 and 17.00, so what are we waiting for? Don’t forget your sunscreen, and flip-flops will be just fine for this trip.

Is this water flat enough for you?

There's always someone who likes to make waves!

There’s always someone who likes a little fun!

Here we are, at the first port of call already!

The ferry docks first at the eastern end of the island, with a busy little marina, the church and a couple of restaurants. If you like you can get off here and walk along to Farol, but I like to stay on till the second stop, 10 minutes later. As the ferry chugs alongside the island, the lighthouse for which the settlement is named looms larger. Often your flight path into the Algarve will carry you over the islands and you have an aerial view of Farol.

Almost there…

Closer!

And we’re disembarking!

Ok, so you’ve indulged me the watery stuff. Thank you! Now it’s time to stroll a little. You’ve probably guessed what we’ll be going to see, haven’t you?

It’s visible wherever you look

Not quite hiding behind the beach houses

Even on the tiles!

Unless you deliberately look the other way

There are plenty of beguiling sights

Palms and pretty houses

And pathways to explore

But eventually you come face to face!

The lighthouse is situated on a rocky headland, above a small beach, crowded with locals on a weekend. Continue past that and you have seemingly endless sand. Off with those flip-flops and away you paddle!

A good situation?

Are you paddling?

I think that’s a wreck out at sea?

After a while you will see a sign board pointing inland and a boardwalk. This is your cue to put the flip-flops back on and follow it, over some low dunes. You will see the first port where the ferry docked ahead in the distance. Arguably the best bit of the walk starts now. As you approach the village the path becomes lined with an array of beach houses and their gardens. All shapes and colours are represented- some tasteful, others… well, let’s say interesting.

The boardwalk

Across the dunes

It’s not as far as it looks

Till you come to the Social Centre

And the first of the beach houses

Closely followed by…

Many more

With their attendant bougainvillea

Did I mention tasteful? Quirky, maybe

Lots of pink

And assorted pots

Now you’re back at the marina, with its host of little fishing vessels. There are several small bars and restaurants where you can blend in with the locals while you await your return ferry. The ticket office only opens 10 minutes before the boat is due, but you might well have bought a return- ide e volta. The ferry will stop again at Farol so you can do this walk in either direction, or both ways if you’re keen!

A motley medley of containers

And numerous working vessels

Some very nifty ones

And the odd bike

It’s a busy spot

The church is at this end of the island, too

Watched over by Our Lady of Fatima

Then it’s farewell to Culatra

And hello Olhao!

I hope you didn’t mind the boat ride too much? One of my favourite things about the Algarve is the number of ferry rides I can take. My husband rather meanly keeps count and sometimes I’m rationed! There were 8 boat rides this visit. (that’s there and back, of course)

Many thanks for your time and your company. Will you join me next week on a Monday walk? The details are on my walks page or just click on the logo below.

Now for the good stuff! Time to put the kettle on and read my ‘shares’.

I didn’t have Alesund on my ‘list’ till I saw this post. I do now! Thank you, Cardinal :

The City Center of Alesund

Show me a walk by a river? I’m hooked! Thanks, Drake :

Other side of the river

Pauline keeps revealing interesting facets of Canberra :

Inner city chic : I’m loving Canberra

If you’re a lover of tranquility you can’t fail to love Amy’s garden :

Portland Japanese Garden

You’ll love this walk with Jude too. It’s on level ground for one thing! :

Wild Rye

One last nostalgic stroll with Sylvia… But, don’t worry- she’ll be back to visit family. Here’s to new beginnings, Ad! :

One last nostalgic walk before we leave this paradise

And now, meet Ana. I’m sure she’s known to many of you and I’m so happy she has joined us this week :

A guided history walk of Guildford

And last but never, ever least, Yvette is back! Have you been to West Point, Virginia? You’ll enjoy this visit. :

West Point, VA

Thanks again to all my contributors. Have a happy week!

Jo’s Monday walk : “Mind that hole!”

Isn’t this a view worth falling down a hole for?

Well, don’t worry! I’ve already done the falling, and you really won’t need to. The view above is at Cacela Velha, the midway point in a beautiful walk. Let’s proceed with caution, shall we?

It was a little cloudy and cool when we set off

Good walking weather! We started from behind the broad beach at Manta Rota, in the Eastern Algarve, and picked our way through the madly flowering sea broom. We were heading west, towards Cacela Velha, with plenty of distractions along the way.

Like the sandbars, out in the bay

Like the flowering cacti- almost as plentiful as the broom!

And flowering cacti, thriving in the sandy soil

There was a bit of a scramble at one rather steep point, but the men in the group shepherded us through, and then it was easy going again.

In an open stretch, we came upon a well

Well-rusted in close up, but still with water in the bottom

The clouds were beginning to break up as we skirted the stream

At this point, we trod quite carefully. Sandy, the walk leader, emphasized we should keep clear of the slippery rim. Normally the stream was forded by stepping stones, but they seem to have disappeared. It wasn’t particularly tricky, so long as you kept your eye on the path.

In any case, the village of Cacela Velha lay just ahead of us, and a coffee stop was planned. I make no secret of the fact that this is one of my favourite Algarve places, and that neither time nor man has been able to spoil it.

Though the addition of certain art pieces is questionable

Though the addition of certain art pieces could be questioned?

You might recognise that lamp in the corner of the shot. There are several about the village, and one made a very discreet appearance in my Lingering look at Algarve windows last week.

The view really doesn’t need any enhancement, does it?

Is it any wonder I like to linger here?

And linger some more!

The church was busy with a funeral, so we kept a respectful distance

At this point it had become quite hot, and it was wonderful to be going down the steps to walk further along the beach, in the direction of the next small village, Fabrica. Not so charming as Cacela Velha, but you probably wouldn’t mind owning the large property erected by a builder, right on the shoreline.

The oleander are lovely this year!

And the columbine are doing battle with the cacti. Losing, I think!

There are a LOT of steps, but down is ok!

And then you’re on an unremarkable bit of beach

With a dilapidated but very picturesque shack

Up ahead lies Fabrica (and most of our walkers)

Everywhere, boats bob in the water

Have I lulled you into a false sense of security yet? It’s so peaceful, isn’t it? Time to head for home.

There is only one road out of Fabrica, so we turned inland and followed it, back towards Cacela Velha. As walkers do, we were chatting away, discovering fascinating facts about the surrounds, and about each other. We pass a couple of horses and a donkey in a field, and turn back down to the coast. Crossing over the bridge, we are back on our original trail.

It looks innocent enough, doesn’t it?

See that lip of soil, at the forefront of the photo? Suddenly my feet shot off the edge and I was plummeting down, towards the stream! Fortunately, one of the men had the presence of mind to grab for me, and then I was dangling by a hand. As my feet scrambled for non-existent footing, another of the men grabbed my other arm and I was hauled unceremoniously out. Bruised, shaken, and the cream shorts a bit the worse for wear!

I can’t even remember whether I took that photo before or after my fall! It doesn’t really show the wicked little curve that I missed while I was busy talking. My husband was far ahead but said that when he heard the shout go up, he knew immediately who’d fallen! I was very lucky because I would certainly have broken something if they hadn’t halted my fall. As it was, I escaped with a wrenched shoulder and a few cuts and bruises.

Drama over, we continued around the bay

The skies the clearest of blues, with just a few wispy clouds

The sky the clearest of blues, with just a few wispy clouds

I have to admit, I was happy to arrive at the restaurant, on the edge of Manta Rota, where we gathered afterwards. I needed a steadying drink! In the shade of the vines, with good food and company, I was able to laugh about the entertainment I had provided.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s walk. The surroundings are lovely, aren’t they? Both Manta Rota and Cacela Velha are signed off the E125, the Algarve’s coastal road.

I have acquired a faithful little band of walkers, and I am extremely grateful for their company. Each Monday I share the walks posted in the previous week. Please join me and my friends if you would like to. Let’s go visiting, shall we?

This week, Drake shares a little more of his delightful birthplace, the island of Samso, Denmark :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/06/16/the-heels-of-village-people/

And you should see the lush gardens Amy found in Ronda! :

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/06/17/jos-monday-walk-a-garden-walk-in-ronda-countryside/

Speaking of gardens, are there any more beautiful than these in Cornwall? Thank you, Jude! :

http://smallbluegreenflowers.wordpress.com/2014/06/16/garden-portrait-trebah/

It was a late night for Sherri, but she still managed to take me to Barrington Court! :

http://sherrimatthewsblog.com/2014/06/20/june-in-england-glastonbury-stonehenge-and-a-country-garden/

Come to think of it, Yvette likes to be out in the dark :

http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/06/22/a-walk-on-dock-street-and-a-dozen-doors/

Have a great walking week, everybody, but do be careful, won’t you?

I just realised, this is my 400th post. No wonder I’m feeling tired!

Jo’s Monday walk : Barril beach

Barril beach

I’m sure that some of you will be delighted to know that this is a walk where you can cheat hugely. It’s definitely one to take the children along on, or maybe you have a husband who always wanted to be an engine driver?

Look what runs alongside the footpath- too tempting!

I can’t remember ever visiting the Eastern Algarve without a visit to Barril. Come along with me and I’ll try to show you why it’s such a favourite.

If the weather’s not too warm and you’re feeling fairly energetic, you can start in the nearby village of Santa Luzia and complete a circular walk. I’ll give you more details later. For now, we’ve tossed the coin and decided to do it the easy way, from Pedras d’el Rei. Your start point is beside the salt marshes and all you need to do is cross over the pontoon.

Looking back over the pontoon to Pedras d'el Rei

Looking back across the pontoon, to Pedras d’el Rei

There are distractions, of course. A box of ripe figs alongside the pontoon! I didn’t want to carry them with me on the outbound journey but I really hoped there might be a couple left on my return. One thing’s for certain- the sea broom will be your constant companion along the way.

The sea broome in delicate shades of lilac

The sea broom, flowering in delicate shades of lilac

Isn’t it pretty?

One of the big attractions for me is the variety of wild flowers you will find alongside the path.

Many of them, I don’t know the name of

This one has tiny red ants crawling all over it!

This one’s plain. It reminds me of broccoli!

The grasses and their seed heads fascinate me

Just bursting with life!

And then there’s this tiny, delicate flower

And the yellow guy again!

I know this will be a challenge for my friend Jude. She loves to identify flowers.

How about this one? An Aeonium?

And you know this is my absolute favourite! The Ice plant

Tiny crabs caper in the mud of the salt marshes. I stopped to watch two in a courtly dance, but I don’t have a photo for you. I’d left my ‘still ailing slightly’ camera back at the house, with the battery on charge, and I didn’t have the presence of mind to borrow Mick’s camera till we were part way there! (he didn’t offer till then, but he could see I was getting desperate)

I love the landscape

With the hump of Monchique always in the background

As you approach the beach the flowers I have been calling Livingstone daisies, but I now find are Ice plants, appear in the dunes. I featured a hot pink in my Six word Saturday, but in the Algarve they are more commonly lemon yellow.

Cacti and aloe vera begin to take over

And you’re onto the boardwalk, at Barril beach

A little detour to the anchors, of course! They always capture the imagination. A reminder of the days when the tuna fishing industry thrived in this area, the rusting “Cemetery of Anchors” provides a wonderful photo opportunity. I would love to be there are sunset.

I liked the crisp catamaran beside the aged anchors

I like the modern catamarans, beached beside the ancient anchors

And there are beach bars , for refreshments

And there are beach bars too , for refreshment

Here you have a choice. Remember I suggested a circular walk from Santa Luzia? If you turn left when you reach the beach, 20-30 minutes walk along it will bring you to a point opposite Santa Luzia, to which a ferry runs in Summer. Access is across a long boardwalk. My husband suggests that you should do this longer walk the other way around, starting with the ferry from Santa Luzia, to ensure that it is running. He is a very practical soul.

But you and me are going back the way we came. I still have those figs to collect, remember? We might even cheat and take that train. It’s a holiday, after all!

Who doesn’t love the age of steam?

It carries water, beer and anything else the ilha needs

The little train carries water, beer and anything else the ilha needs

Crossing back over the pontoon, I’m not very surprised to find the ‘fig man’ gone. But then I spot him, coming towards me, wheeling his bike with fresh supplies on the saddle. He sees me too, and stops, the bike propped against his leg. ‘Help me, please’, he says, in smiling English, and invites me to take a plastic bag from under his arm. In doing so, I catch the edge of his cardboard box and the figs start to tip! We both lunge for them and manage to stop all but one from crashing to the floor. Phew! They are 5 for 1 euro, and he pops an extra one into my bag. Thankfully all his customers are not as ‘helpful’ as me.

I haven’t even shown you the beach yet, but it’s a beauty. Barril is just a small area of Tavira Island, which starts at the mouth of the River Gilao and rolls westward. If you don’t have a car, a bus will take you from Tavira town centre to Santa Luzia, 15 minutes away, and continues on to Pedras d’el Rei, just a few minutes further west.

I guess I have to show you the beach!

Next week I think I might take you on the walk where I fell down a ‘hole’. Life’s seldom dull, is it?

I think I should maybe design a ‘rules’ page for the walks, too. Not that there are any rules really, but then I wouldn’t have to bore you with the details each time. Please spend a little while visiting these walks. They give me an enormous amount of pleasure and I’m very grateful.

Drake has us perilously climbing a French ruin :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/06/11/no-ordinary-forest-outing/

You know Yvette loves art? Meet Modigliani! :

http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/06/10/dinner-with-modigliani-monday-walk-wjo/

Alberta is staggeringly beautiful, until Sue almost comes nose to nose with a bear :

http://traveltalesoflife.com/2014/06/10/canmore-abandoned-coal-mines-and-a-black-bear-bonus/

I got really excited when a newcomer to my blog took me on a walk beside the Seine :

http://kanwalkwilltravel.com/2014/06/14/a-walk-along-la-siene/

And my plant expert, Jude, has excelled herself in the Lost gardens of Heligan :

http://smallbluegreenflowers.wordpress.com/2014/06/09/garden-portrait-the-lost-gardens-of-heligan-part-ii/

Paris is popular this week! Isn’t it always? Christine’s is delectable! :

http://dadirridreaming.wordpress.com/2014/06/17/walk-around-la-madeleine/

Happy walking, one and all!

Six word Saturday

Where

have

you

seen

this

before?

Don’t recognise it? It’s Tavira in the Algarve, but I’m home again, with that pocketful of memories. You know I love to share, so here I am, participating in Six word Saturday.

Have a beautiful weekend, wherever you are, and don’t forget to join Cate at Show My Face. Just click on the logo, or the links.

A little side trip to Spain

I never like to have things hanging about in my ‘Drafts folder’. I’m not an organised, scheduling sort of person though, heaven knows, it would be an improvement! But this little side trip keeps smiling sadly at me from it’s lonely position in there. Unfinished, until now. So, with a flourish, let me present Ayamonte.

Remember my kings, strolling through the streets of Vila Real de S. Antonio on the Algarve’s eastern edge? They were smiling and throwing sweets to their loyal subjects, as any good king should at Epiphany. And then they boarded the ferry for Ayamonte, in Spain. Just 10 minutes on the ferry, but a lifetime apart culturally and in temperament.

Ayamonte, seen from the ferry, is a simple whitewashed Spanish town. At close quarters it reveals its medieval side in narrow streets and historical buildings. This is Huelva province, and there is no shortage of Andalucian flamboyance.

The approach, by ferry

Such pretty tiles around the fountain

And on the seating

This little girl caught her jumper on the iron rails- but I missed the shot!

The pigeons weren’t impressed

But the flamenco goes on!

Life is so colourful

Even under a cloudy January sky

The bronze dome pierces the clouds

I love the colour and the tiles yet it always surprises me how very different Ayamonte feels from Portugal, just a wave away, across the water. The road bridge over the River Guadiana now links the two, for speedy access, but I prefer a gentler approach to the culture change.

The dome towers over the winding streets

Narrow to keep out the summer heat

Full of religious imagery

And a very distinctive style

Terribly smart for just a bank!

Does he look like he’d take care of your money?

Or maybe his friend is more reliable

A canal runs away from the Guadiana, around the old side of town and past a park at which I don’t look too closely. There are animals caged there in an environment I would never choose for them. A new boardwalk has been laid and there is an air that the town is thriving. Not the case in much of Spain, nor Portugal, for that matter.

Beyond the canal, the older side of town

Beyond the canal, in the distance, the older side of town

And so I’ve had my little flirt with flamenco. Back on the ferry now, and home to Portugal (and those crazy, likeable kings).

Quinta de Marim

The tidal mill at Quinta de Marim

This is the perfect Algarve walk when it’s too nice to be indoors, but not warm enough to sit on a beach. Doesn’t that boardwalk call to you? It does to me.

Quinta de Marim is part of the Ria Formosa nature reserve. A 3 km trail leads through the pines and around the salt marshes, taking in the lovely old tidal mill en route. The main purpose of the reserve is conservation and education. The best option is to buy a map for a couple of euros and go at your own pace, but a guided tour is also available for advanced bookings.

No putting out to sea in this, I don’t think!

In the distance you can see the island of Armona

But for me, the tidal mill is the highlight of the reserve

It sits proudly on the water

Looking out to sea

The views from the roof are captivating

Sky and sea blend into one

In a bird watcher’s paradise

A place where the spirit soars

I had never come across the concept of a tidal mill before and so was pleased that, inside the mill, display boards explain how it works.

Light floods in, illuminating the mill wheels

Light floods in, illuminating the mill stones

The ebb and flow of tide is what makes the mill work

I had never seen anything quite like it before

In season I believe the mill operates a small cafe, but it was closed when I was there. The rest of the reserve incorporates salinas (or salt pans), a traditional farmhouse, a bird hospital and several hides for birdwatching. Traditionally Portuguese water poodles were kept here- a special breed with webbed toes, once used in the fishing process. These days they are most often seen in public demonstrations.

A Portuguese water poodle in action

The reserve is close to Olhao Camping, and is signed off the E125 just before you reach Olhao, if you’re approaching from the east.

Six word Saturday

From here

Hartlepool, viewed from Christ Church tower, on a sunny day!

to here

Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve- not quite so sunny!

In fact, a little moody.

But with a strong promise of blue.

And back!

As you can see from the centre photos, the weather was quite temperamental when we were last in the Algarve. I suspect that will not be the case this trip, as it’s in the 30’s currently. Oddly enough the Summer has arrived in the UK too (yes, even the north east!) so I won’t have to feel guilty about leaving my English friends shivering. It’s a win! win! situation.

So looking forward to dabbling my toes, and sharing special birthday celebrations with my husband. (his- I’m just a youngster- secret smile ) I also have a treat in store. For a couple of days I’m playing hostess to Cathy or Catbird as some of you will know her. Having left Oman she is now romping her way around Spain, and then Portugal, before returning home to the States. Her exhausting itinerary is here, but won’t it be fun?

Enjoy Six word Saturday, as well as the weather, while I’m gone. Many thanks to Cate at Show My Face. Back soon!

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Eastern Algarve

Tavira House Hotel

Jo’s Monday walk : Santa Luzia

Six word Saturday

The tents were up- show time!

Jo’s Monday walk : Ilha da Culatra

Jo’s Monday walk : “Mind that hole!”

Jo’s Monday walk : Barril beach

Six word Saturday

Where

have

you

seen

this

before?

A little side trip to Spain

Quinta de Marim

Six word Saturday

From here

to here

And back!

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The tents were up- show time!

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Where

have

you

seen

this

before?

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From here

to here

And back!

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