Algarve

Jo’s Monday walk : São Brás circular

Fancy living in a windmill?

Fancy living in a windmill?

Enough of nostalgia!  I think we’ll do one last Algarve walk before I get stuck into a British winter. This one’s a country walk, led for me by Georgie, a lovely lady who lives in the inland village of São Brás de Alportel.  If you’re ever in the Algarve at Easter, this village hosts a beautiful parade through lavender strewn, cobbled streets.  It’s a treat for all the senses.

It was a glorious morning when we set out, but I was informed there was a 40% chance of rain! We had driven up above the village to the site of the former pousada, with wonderful, wide-ranging views all around.

Looking out to the surrounding hills

Looking out to the surrounding hills

It was soon obvious we were heading for a windmill

It was soon obvious we were heading to a windmill

This tree seems to have a sense of humour!

This tree seems to have a sense of humour!

We had already discussed the fact that on breezy days, the wind whistles around the hilltops. Someone who had once stayed in the pousada recollected that the shutters had banged and rattled ferociously throughout the night.  No sign or sound of that today, but weather up in the hills can change frequently.

A windmill conversion should not have been surprising

A windmill conversion, ready to occupy

Starting at so high a point, it was fairly obvious that we would be going down and then, at some future point, back up again.  Georgie assured us that, taking your time, it wasn’t especially taxing.  The cobbled path gave way to a rough track, and we paused frequently to take notice of our surrounds.  Soon we came to a fonte or spring, used for laundry purposes in former times.

The trail follows a stream and reed beds before climbing up into the hills.  In Spring these would be carpeted with cistus and wild flowers.

Did I mention changeable weather?

Did I mention changeable weather?

The blue is rapidly disappearing from the sky!

The blue is rapidly disappearing from the sky!

A couple of years ago forest fires ravaged the gullies around here, and evidence of the burnt out trees was starkly visible.  Nature is quick to regenerate and we were more concerned with the clouds that seemed to have zipped in from nowhere.  A few spits and spots of rain were laughed off as we hastened towards our coffee stop.

What a treat this little place was!  Tesouros da Serra means ‘treasures of the sierra’. Nobody was arguing! The produce on display looked delicious, but we knew that in a short while we would have a lunch stop.  We settled for sharing some alfarroba biscuits, but made a mental note to come back another day.

One of the really delightful things about this cafe, in an out of the way spot at the back of São Brás, was its garden. Not widely accessible to the public, when Georgie asked if we might see the olive tree, claimed to be 2000 years old, we were assured that we could go in.

The sun was shining brightly again and we turned right along a path that led us through a forest of cork oaks.  Huge gnarled creatures, standing their ground as they had for generations. Cradled beneath them lay extraordinary fungi.

Coming out of the woods, we were back on the trail up to the pousada, which didn’t seem anything like as steep as expected.  Maybe it was the prospect of lunch!  I’ll give you a little peek in our restaurant, shall I?  ‘O Marques’ is in Gralheira, on the back road from São Brás to Loule.

I haven’t fully captured the beauty of this area.  Georgie assured me that in Spring it is quite magical, and I have no cause to disagree.  There are signboards along the way, giving details of the flora and fauna, and if you look at my links you will find more.  To find the pousada, take the N2 signed Alportel from the village and head to the top of the hill.  The cobbled path is off on your right, just after a bend in the road.  The distance covered was around 6 miles and took us 3 hours, including our half hour coffee stop.

I owe huge thanks to Georgie for guiding this walk and for being such good company.

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Time to draw breath, put that kettle on, and see where our walkers have got to this week.  As always, I’m really thrilled with all the contributions.  For details of how to join me, click on the logo above.  Many thanks to you all!

First up, Violet Sky treats us to some fascinating family history in a village in Fife  :

‘Muchty

Drake has a bit of a theme going on with his Monday walks.  Have you noticed?

Do you wanna dance?

Join Amy in a watery green world in Texas.  You may be surprised at the scenery.  I was!

Cibolo Nature Centre

Rarely, if ever, have I seen anywhere more beautiful than the beaches Noe shares in South Sulawesi  :

West Coast of Gusung Island

But just to prove that English beaches can hold their own, Suzanne’s been to St. Ives  :

St. Ives, Cornwall- beaches, boats and the Old Green Door

Such a treat I have for you next!  A magic carpet ride  🙂  If you don’t know Lisa, you must!

Magic Carpet Airlines Special- for Subscribers only

Stay on the carpet and we’ll fly to the Antipodes to join Meg!  :

The River Road 9- grandeur and a  river crossing

And Pauline is ‘stamping about’, just down the road!  :

Rediscovering my stamping ground

Tobias is here with some lovely Hamburg curves and woods.  Say hello, won’t you?  :

Downtown strolls

Home Range

And in a last mad scramble, Shan has made it!

New York State Museum

Fantastic times, all round!  I hope you enjoy reading these as much as I enjoy the sharing.  Happy walking!

Six word Saturday

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Could a week be more different?

Halloween, Algarve style

Halloween, Algarve style

You might wonder what a random bunch of Algarve kids are doing in my Six word Saturday. Lovely Colline in Toronto was kind enough to link a Halloween walk to my Monday walks feature. When I said I’d seen some small ‘trick or treaters’ whilst out walking in the Algarve, Colline, who is a teacher, said that she’d love to see them.  I thought that you might too.

The skyline that I love

The skyline that I love

Truthfully, it’s not been much of a week.  I’ve sniffled and snuffled my way through it, looking out of the window hopefully for blue skies, of which there have been few.  To be fair, we are clinging on to random bursts of Autumn colour, which I witnessed yesterday at t’ai chi, after a day of miserable rain.  The sun burst forth at teatime, just in time to set, and this morning a soupy grey fog is pushing up against the windowsill.  Soon I shall determinedly make my way out into it.  I’m tired of being cooped up.

I'm missing my empty beaches

I’m missing my empty beaches

 

But it’s not all doom and gloom.  I finally managed to activate my new smartphone last night and am looking forward to playing with Instagram (don’t hold your breath!).  Maybe my old friend will be waiting for me on that shoreline, refreshed from it’s swim.  Time will tell!

I'll look forward to next year's 'trick or treaters'

Meanwhile I’ll look forward to next year’s ‘trick or treaters’

Happy weekend to you all!  Don’t forget to visit Cate at Show My Face to share your Six word Saturday. I’ll be cosied up watching ‘Strictly’.  See you on Monday, for my walk!

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A palace in warm sunshine

Restored to glory- the fountains at Estoi Palace

Restored to glory- the fountains at Estoi Palace

One of my treats to myself on my visit to the Algarve was the Garden Fair, being held at Estoi Palace for the first time this November.  When I came here 10 years ago, the palace was a down-at-heel ruin, but with enchanting grounds that cast their own spell.  The past was cupped in the chipped and empty fountains, and breathed through the azulejos adorning the walls.

I was half delighted, but half concerned to hear of a proposed restoration that would turn the palace into a pousada, one of Portugal’s elite hotels.  The transformation took many long years but, when the hotel finally opened its doors, I was hugely impressed.  The grand salon was grace and elegance, with incredible ceilings, and the gardens had been given a modern twist, yet retained the features that had made them so beautiful.  The new ‘add on’ for the hotel guest rooms was not so pleasing, but I was simply grateful that this lovely ruin had been given a life.

At this stage there was still much to do, and the ongoing work on the fountains and flights of stairs had placed them ‘out of bounds’.  I remembered wistfully when I had been able to wander at will, conjuring with dreams.  So it was, with a flutter of excitement, that I returned to Estoi for the Garden Fair.

The side gate to the palace

The side gate to the palace- the lion is genially on guard

I didn’t expect that tiny Estoi would be playing host to so many people that day, but as the sun beamed with unseasonable heat, it became clear that this was to be a popular event.  I was glad that I had arrived promptly for the 11am opening.  As one of the wardens pointed out to me, this is the Algarve’s only historic garden.

What else to enjoy the sunshine but cacti?

What better to enjoy the sunshine than cacti?

 

 

I have to admit that I didn’t linger as long as I might, delightful though it all was.  I could not wait to move on from the plant stalls and into the gardens.  The former coach house had been transformed into a magnificent exhibition space, with gleaming floors and chandelier embellishments.  Air plants nestled amongst the crafts, with potions made from herbs, and exquisite mosaics.  I eased myself past temptation and out into the garden.

Dappled shade led to the grand staircase

Dappled shade led to the grand staircase

The azulejos were as beautiful as I remembered

The azulejos as beautiful as I remembered

The details quite beguiling

The details quite beguiling

Looking back at my photos I don’t think I did the palace gardens justice, but you will have a general impression which I hope might tempt you to go there some day.  The palace itself is beautiful.  Perhaps I might take afternoon tea there one day and show you inside.

The palace and parterres

The palace and parterres

It may not reflect quite the type of warmth that Paula was thinking of, but I think this post might sit nicely on her Thursday’s Special.  Come with me and admire.

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Jo’s Monday walk : Algar Seco

Algar Seco

Algar Seco

Going back to places isn’t always such a good idea, but in this instance it definitely paid off.  It must be 10 years since I first set foot in Carvoeiro. The location, possessively hugging a small cove, fishing boats pulled up on shore for safety, was always idyllic.  Unfortunately too many people had discovered its charms.  Parking was something of a nightmare, and the overall impression was definitely ‘tacky’.

I’m not one to give up on a place so easily, and I felt I owed it a second chance.  As it happened, it provided the perfect location for my November birthday.  Crowds weren’t an issue and some of the parking problems appeared to have been solved.  The ‘tacky’ aspect is still there, but  the spectacular scenery of the surrounding coast is justifiably a magnet.  ‘High end’ villas and smart restaurants have moved in.  Best of all, a beautiful new boardwalk has been installed along the cliff top east of town, making a walk to Algar Seco pure exhilaration.

The boardwalk, heading towards Carvoeira

The boardwalk, heading towards Carvoeiro

Magnificent, isn’t it?  I was totally unprepared for the sight, but so often it seems to me that the Algarve ‘gets it right’.  The cliff tops are subject to erosion and the boardwalk helps to protect them from the curious, while enabling safe and easy access to their dramatic beauty.

You can see the frailty of the rocks

You can see the frailty of the rocks

Algar Seco is the name given to a rock formation carved into the cliffs by erosion and the action of the waves.  Steps lead down into a natural amphitheatre, where the fit and sure-footed can view at close quarters how the sea seductively sculpts the shore.

I am not known for my affinity with goats, and wearing smart sandals was perhaps a mistake.  A squidgy yellow puddle wasn’t exactly what they were designed for, but they survived.  Wet wipes are a wonderful invention, aren’t they?

The scenery was worth it!

I thought the scenery was worth it!

Especially from inside the caves

Especially from inside the caves

Amazing to be so close to nature

Amazing to be so close to nature

Even if a little scary

Safer on the boardwalk!

But much safer up on the boardwalk!

Now let’s follow the boardwalk towards Carvoeiro.  It isn’t very far and the views will keep you enthralled.  There are benches set in at intervals if you want to simply sit and feast your eyes. Looking back you have the beach of Marinha, with Benagil’s tiny cove beyond.  Ahead , an extravaganza of coast!  Soon you arrive at Capela da Nossa Senhora da Encarnacao’s so pretty chapel.

The church square

The church square

With a pretty roof

With a pretty roof

Affording calm views to sea

Affording calm views to sea

Beyond this, the road starts to dip into the cove which is Praia da Carvoeiro. The sea wall is planted with hardy flowers but the chances are you won’t be able to take your eyes off the bay.

Determined to bloom in the salt air

Determined to bloom in the salt air!

Just a hint at the beach below you

Just a hint at the beach below you

Invariably there will be a couple of boats, drawn up well away from the clutches of the sea.  And a burst of colour in the houses at shoreline.

Happy to be stranded!

Happy to be stranded!

How about this for 'beachfront'?

How about this for ‘beachfront’?

But you know that what will always lure me on is the thrash of the waves on the shore.  I cannot wait to get close!  Just a quick paddle!

Too close, sometimes!

Too close, sometimes!

But water like this is hard to resist!

But water like this is hard to resist!

After a play on the beach (yes, the wet bum incident, but the camera was safe!) and a few more shell shots, I opted to climb Rua da Paraiso.  I just had to see what ‘Paradise Beach’ offered.  The views down into the bay are equally lovely and you can complete a circuit which brings you back into the centre.  There are only two main streets, side by side, leading to the beach (and away, if you’re a driver).  Algar Seco is clearly signed, along the coast road and within the town, if you have left your car at the eastern end, as we did.

Thank you all for your patience.  I’ve struggled mightily this weekend but, in the week ahead, hope to get ‘back on track’.  As always I have some wonderful shares for you, so let’s get that kettle on and go armchair walking!

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First we’re off to Otatara Beach in New Zealand, with Jill  :

All Soul’s Day wander at Otatara PA

Then flying straight on to the States and the Hudson River :

Fort Lee Historic Park

A truly delightful Halloween walk next, with Colline.  I found some little ‘trick or treaters’ in the Algarve too.  Must show you sometime!

A Halloween Walk

Lamb burger anybody?  Then you can walk it off, with Yvette  :

Burger, Bach and a walk

Lovely Noe showed me another little piece of village life in South Sulawesi.  Don’t miss it!

The old village of Bitombang

Tobias is here from Hamburg!  A place I know little of, and am enjoying through his eyes  :

The steep approach to Baumwall

Of course, there’d be no Monday walk without Drake!  He always manages to stir nostalgia in me  :

Whistle down the Wind

And when there’s a walk from Tish Farrell, you know you’re in for a treat  :

Rambling Tales, My Little Pony, windmills, Olympian dreams

If Pauline ever invites you for a walk in her garden, say ‘yes’ immediately.  It’s fabulous!  :

Come walk with me in the garden

Nurturing and looking after swans sounds like a grand job, doesn’t it?  Sherri is at a swannery this week  :

A walk with swans

No Jude, you might have noticed?  She has her hands full of grandson in Australia.  Happy days!  I owe so many thanks to my contributors.  You have made my Mondays very special.  I hope I haven’t missed anybody this week?  Happy walking!

Six word Saturday

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Overwhelmed with wishes!  Thank you all!

I seem to've got myself in a hole at the moment!

I seem to’ve got myself in a bit of a hole!

You’ll be able to find out where on next Monday’s walk, but meanwhile I have some serious catching up to do!  I just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone who has left comments on the blog in the past week.  I’ll be visiting you as soon as I possibly can.

I had a wonderful birthday, and the smile on my face wasn’t even seriously dented when my mobile phone made a bid for freedom from the bottom of my bag and swam off beneath the ferry!  It did, of course, provide much amusement for the other passengers.  I hope you’ll excuse me if I simply post a quick gallery of highlights.

Rounded off nicely with a stroll by the river

Rounded off nicely with a stroll by the river

Such delightful memories!  Here’s wishing you all a wonderful weekend.  I’m off to visit Cate at Show My Face and check out Six Word Saturday. See you soon!

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Festival of leaves- week 2

Solitary on an Algarve bench

Solitary on an Algarve bench

Or an Algarve beach

Or even on an Algarve beach

Have you seen any lovely leaves lately?  This is an Autumn challenge I discovered just last week. Rather nice, isn’t it?  Just click on the link to start those leaves falling.  I was out kicking the English leaves about today.  Just as beautiful!  Join me next week and see.

Thursday could be special

I love this tranquil time of day

An evening’s reflection

I love a bit of drama, and I rather think Paula does too, so I thought I’d post a couple of night time/evening shots from my recent Algarve visit. Every day is special in its own way, isn’t it?

Can you feel the warmth?

Can you feel the warmth?

Almost gone

Of the setting sun

Capturing those last rays of light

Gently captured in the windows

I love the patterns on the wall

Or the patterns on the wall

And the boats, stranded on the shore

While the boats lie stranded on the river bed

I hope your Thursday is special too.  You have the power to make it so.  Paula thinks every Thursday’s Special.  Visit her to see why.

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Six word Saturday

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I’m back, but where to start?

Maybe with where I've just been?

Maybe with where I’ve just been?

You recognise it, of course!

You recognise it, of course!

And a bridge you must have seen before

With a bridge you must have seen before

And its companion, the Military Bridge

And its companion, the Military Bridge

Now sporting a love lock or two

Now sporting a love lock or two

So pretty at sunset!

So pretty at sunset!

With a caipirinha, maybe?

With a caipirinha, maybe?

In the Praca da Republica

In the Praca da Republica

Or a meal at my favourite restaurant, 'A Taska'

Or a meal at my favourite restaurant, ‘A Taska’

Some fine entertainment in the square

Some fine entertainment in the square

And a whirlwind of folk dance!

And a whirlwind of folk dance!

Followed by a stroll home in the moonlight

Followed by a stroll home in the moonlight

And that’s just a beginning!  I hope you will excuse me but I have so much catching up to do this weekend, along with my normal chores.  I should just about be ready for our Monday walk.

Have a happy weekend, won’t you?  I’ll be round as soon as possible.  Meantime, are you playing Six word Saturday?  Visit Cate at Show My Face to see how it’s done.

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Six word Saturday and Summer Lovin’

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A fun day at the beach

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Hartlepool council have organised Seaton Celebrates , to mark the completion of major sea defence work and the extended promenade at Seaton Carew.  Activities are to include sand sculpture workshops.  Well, there’s no shortage of sand on our beach! Which is just as well, because world champion sculptress Nicola Wood will be creating a large scale sculpture.

I’m hoping it will be on a par with the amazing themed sculptures which feature each year at the FIESA festival in the Algarve.  To be fair, they have a whole team working on them.  We are also promised a roller skating display, and street theatre, which will include sea creatures and a mermaid.  There’ll be nautically themed craft stalls and the singing of sea shanties too.

How do I know this?  The White Crane t’ai chi group (I’m a member) will be giving a demonstration.  I expect to be there, camera in hand at least part of the time.  It’s on all Saturday afternoon, between 12 and 5pm.

Sand 3

What do you have planned for Saturday?  Can you describe it in six words?  Pop over to see Cate at Show My Face and see exactly how it should be done.  This post is just so Summer, I really think it could find a home in Summer Lovin‘.  Don’t you?

I must stop playing with Lunapic.  It’s becoming a bad habit!  Have a happy Saturday.

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Jo’s Monday walk : Fortaleza de Sagres

The Wind Compass in Sagres fort

The Wind Compass, inside the fort at Sagres

When we started our epic journey, I had the west coast of the Algarve firmly in mind.  Known for its cooling breezes on warmer days and its wild stretches of Atlantic facing beach, I planned a visit to the Costa Vicentina.  Unfortunately, by the time we had completed last Monday’s walk at the Barragem de Bravura and our sojourn at Figueira beach, it was already mid afternoon.

The uppermost thing in our minds was a drink.  Water, wine, orange juice- almost anything would have done by this stage!  So, what did I end up with?  A tin of Sagres, the locally brewed beer.  I am not, by nature, a beer or lager drinker, but the popping of the can was bliss to my ears. Parking the car on the clifftop at Sagres, we almost ran downhill to the nearest kiosk.  Michael selected his favourite, Fanta orange, and sat, staring vacantly at yet another beach.

The town beach at Sagres, with the Fortaleza in the distance

Mareta, the town beach at Sagres, with the Fortaleza in the distance

I had planned to call at Sagres on my way back from the Costa Vicentina.  The last time I had been, it was a chilly, overcast day, early in the year.  Not today!

The town has an interesting history and is closely linked to Henry the Navigator, who set up a nautical school locally.  He helped to finance the Portuguese voyages of discovery, and by the time of his death, in 1460, landings had already been made at Sierra Leone in Africa.  An amazing achievement for the tiny caravels!  The Sagres link above takes you to Wikipedia, for some details.

Having got a second wind, it was time to stroll through the town and along the Rua de Fortaleza, the approach to the mighty fortress.  Of course, Michael wanted to know why we couldn’t just have parked in the enormous parking bays beside the fort.  Where’s the drama in that?

The Rose Compass

The Rose Compass, or sundial

Inside the simple church

Inside the simple church

The purpose of the Rose Compass is a little uncertain.  It may well have been a navigational aid, or just a sundial.  The setting is undeniably powerful.  Soaring cliffs drop away on either side of you, as you gaze out at the open sea.

Work on the huge battlements is ongoing, and not entirely sympathetic, but I found myself moved my the place.  A path leads out around the headland, with majestic views.

The shoreline crumbles beneath you

The shoreline crumbles beneath you

The canon still poised, ready!

With canon still poised, ready!

In the far distance, Cabo S. Vicente lighthouse- the most westerly spot in Europe

Far distant Cabo S. Vicente lighthouse- the most westerly spot in Europe

The beacon, closer to hand

The beacon, closer to hand

Yellow polka dots strewn among the plummy aliums

Yellow polka dots mingle with the plumy aliums

The view back to Mareta, and beyond

The view back to Mareta beach

The feet were tiring as we headed back through the hefty tunnel entrance.  Tiny Praca da Republica, the main square, has a choice of restaurants with outdoor tables.  ‘A Cabana’ suited us nicely.  I imagined it would be a lively spot on an evening but it was time for the drive home.  It had been quite a day! walking logo

Even as I was taking this walk, I just knew it had to be one of my Jo’s Monday walks.  What I could never have imagined is what took place last week.  On Sunday, 30th June, I received a walk from Christine at Dadirridreaming, back in Australia after a wonderful European holiday.  She and Stuart had taken the walk up Glastonbury Tor one rainy day on their visit to England.   We joked about the weather!

In this virtual world of ours, it’s easy to miss comments sometimes.  Christine’s last comment to me, on 1st July, I didn’t spot.  She was advising me that I should link my walking logo to my Jo’s Monday walk page, as she had done.  I have, Christine.  I have!  How very typical of this dearly loved woman, and I’m in tears again as I share this with you.

http://dadirridreaming.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/glastonbury-tor/

It’s hard to follow that, isn’t it?  But when you have some time, please return here and share the walks of my other contributors last week.  There are some very fine ones.

Drake takes us to beautiful Berchtesgarten  :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/on-the-edge-of-the-bavarian-alps/

It was wonderful to have been joined this week by Laura.  And only 3 weeks after back surgery, that’s impressive!  : http://telltaletherapy.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/walkabout-1-st-margarets-to-rye-house-circular/

Jude took me down Memory Lane with a glorious evening stroll around Derwentwater  : http://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2014/06/30/a-lakeside-evening-stroll/

You will certainly not have ‘the blues’ when you see Elisa’s post!  It made my heart skip  : http://elisaruland.com/2014/06/29/hiking-shorts-the-pacific-blues/

A friend you may not know, Kat, has introduced me to beauty and thrills in Corsica.  It’s one not to miss  : http://www.thecorsicablog.co.uk/2012/09/hiking-la-restonica/

And last, but never least, Yvette has gone on a Summer break, but not without leaving me a great post : http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/07/02/walking-in-rva-street-portraits-3/

It’s been an emotional week, hasn’t it?  I’m off out walking very soon but will catch up with you all this evening.  Have a good week my friends.