Photography

Simply beautiful blue and white

One of my earliest memories is of the blue and white Willow pattern plate that sat on a shelf of my grandmother’s Welsh dresser.  It was side by side with a heavy glass plate, with The Lord’s Prayer etched around the rim.  Commonplace in those days, I expect, but I loved them.

I don’t know if it’s that memory, or my lifelong embrace of the sparkling colours of the sea, but I’ve always loved the simplicity of blue and white.  Imagine then, my response, on arriving in Portugal and finding that so many of it’s buildings have been lovingly clad in blue and white tiles.

Porto?  Well, that was just the icing on the cake!  Stepping out of Bolhao Metro, I turned down Rua de Santa Caterina.  Immediately in my vision, the Capela das Almas, a solid wall of blue and white.  It was late evening and dark, so the church was floodlit.  What a welcome!  I knew right then that coming to Porto was going to be all that I had hoped for.

The road dips gently down, passing famous Cafe Majestic (pinch me, I really am here!) and into Praca de Batalha.  I just stood and stared, and stared.

Hauntingly lovely Igreja de Santo Ildefonso

After a night’s sleep, it just got better and better!  Well, you’ve all heard of Sao Bento railway station, haven’t you?  It was just around the corner.

I wasn’t so sure at first about the Se, or Cathedral.  It has the Rose Window and the sturdy pillars of my own Durham Cathedral, back home, but step into the cloisters and you’re in a magical world.  Climbing to the Royal Apartments and viewing terrace, I couldn’t imagine ever attending to the affairs of state with such a view on hand.

The view from the terrace above the cloisters

Stepping in to a fragile and wonderful world

Those courtly days

A cherub or two

A few more?

And one by the window, ready to steal a peep

A room fit for a king

Even the ceiling is gorgeous

But nothing surpasses blue and white

Of course, it doesn’t end there.  There’s the Carmo Church in the University Quarter,  a tile wall that I adore in Rua das Flores, and many others.

Just a glimpse of the Carmo Church, behind the Lion Fountain

Lovely Rua das Flores

But I don’t want to wear you out.  We still have to travel up the Douro together.  There was no shortage of azulejos there either, and the most stunning scenery I’ve seen in some time.  So do come back, won’t you?  I’m looking forward to it.

Six word Saturday

Stunning!

Spectacular Sao Bento railway station in Porto

Fabulous!

Port side!

Serene

Sailing on the Douro

Blissful

Tavira Island

Wonderful

A Portuguese Water Dog arrives to perform

In action in the Water Dog Trials, Lagos

Portugal

Pretty Guimaraes, European City of Culture 2012

Just six words? Sorry- quite impossible!

Some of the highlights?  Undoubtedly, sailing back to Porto from Peso da Regua on board a beautiful barco rabelo- the wooden boats used originally for carrying port downstream to mature in casks in Vila Nova de Gaia.  The company of two young Americans, on the last day of their honeymoon, made it extra special.

The free walking tour we took around Porto, with Iris and 22 internationally varied others, was pretty good too.  After 2 and a half hours of ups and downs, the Francesinha (a lavish cheese and meat toastie in a piquant sauce), and exchanged life histories, were also pretty great.

A glass of port in the surreal surroundings of Lello’s bookstore (sorry, no photos allowed)- it doesn’t get much better.  The highly entertaining antics of the Portuguese Water Dogs, followed by a trip round the grottoes in a small water taxi- well, you know how I feel about water!  You’re right- there will be more posts to follow…. I took over 570 photos.

For now I need to say thank you to Cate of Show My Face for welcoming me back again, and rush off to check what you’ve all been up to in my absence.  Hope to see you all back here next week.  Follow the links for more information.

My Algarve Insider Tips

Call me mean if you like but I’m always reluctant to share too many tips, for fear that my favourite Algarve places become over popular.  In general I like my beaches to be empty.  But Easyjet have tempted me to share a few things that might make your Algarve experience that little bit more special.  I’m always glad to promote Portugal – it’s a beautiful place.

The Ria Formosa from the castle walls of tiny Cacela Velha

So shall we start with the beaches?  They’re hard to ignore, and why would you?  My personal favourites are those that you reach by boat.  Watching the sun glint off the water as you glide towards your beach of choice is my idea of heaven.  I’m an Eastern Algarve lass, and Tavira Island beach is my natural habitat.  It’s in the Ria Formosa so you’ll be able to spy out egrets and heron as the boat heads down river.  Looking back, pretty Tavira fills the skyline.

Tavira’s iconic Ponte Romana bridge, church and water tower

Tavira Island ferry, surrounded by an international sailing regatta

If you happen to be a landlubber, you can reach a stretch of the same beach by land train from Barril, a little further west.  I usually ride out and walk back, depending on the time of day.  Tiny crabs scuttle in the salt marshes and wispy pines shade the varying blooms.

My lazy husband loves to catch the land train over to Barril on Tavira Island

I’ve already hinted that I love boats, and the harbour at Olhao is the perfect jump off point for the islands of Armona and Culatra.  The ferry loads up with all manner of goods from the local market before slipping past the yachts in the marina and across the limpid sea.  Armona, my favourite, is a bare 20 minutes away, but it’s a different world.  In Summer the beach houses that line the narrow paths across the island may be lazily occupied, but it’s still not hard to find your very own stretch of sand.  If the heat becomes too much, a cluster of restaurants provide welcome shade.  Youngsters cool off rather more dramatically by plunging off the pier.

Looking across Armona to the mainland

Culatra is slightly further distant.  Chances are you’ll have seen the lighthouse at Farol as the plane banked in the skies over Faro airport.  As with Armona, a small community lives on the island, and you can wander the sandy paths down to the sea.  The ferry makes two stops on Culatra so it’s possible to disembark at the first and paddle along the shoreline to Farol, then pick up a later ferry back to Olhao.  A couple of cafes offer shade with a sea view.  The sun sliding down the sky on a golden evening is the perfect ending to a day by the water.  You might even spot a dolphin or two, playing in the waves as you sail home.

Farol, the lighthouse on Culatra

If your base is further west in the Algarve, you can sail out of Faro to reach Culatra, or to Barreta, popularly known as Ilha Deserta.  Don’t go without your sunscreen- the reflection off the sea will tan you instantly, and the only shelter is at O Estamine, the Algarve’s most southerly restaurant.

Peace and calm at the end of the day, just the tinkle of masts

As well as bobbing about in boats, I very much like to walk.  The Algarve has some truly beautiful countryside, and one of the best ways to see it is to join a walking group.  These are advertised each week in the “Portugal News”.  You benefit from the local knowledge of the walk leader, and like-minded people to chat to along the way.  People are always keen to share tidbits like the best places to eat and drink cheaply.  The walks usually include a stop off at a restaurant as a reward for your walking efforts.

Really keen walkers might like to check out the Via Algarviana, an inland walking trail which stretches all the way from Alcoutim at the Spanish border out to the very tip of the Algarve.  It’s possible to walk just a small section, or to book accommodation along the route in local farmhouses.  It’s an Algarve many people never glimpse, or even dream of.  You might be lucky and spot some of the spectacularly pretty bee-eaters, swooping low over the water, or a hoopoe hiding in the trees.

Looking out from Alcoutim across the river to Sanlucar de Guadiana, in Spain

Bikers are not neglected either.  Cycle tours are also featured in the “Portugal News” (grab one free at the airport on your way in).  There’s a coastal cycle path which is great for getting the wind in your hair on one of those warm Algarve days.  Bike hire is widely available throughout the area.

To really add some Algarve flavour to your holiday, you should try to seek out a festival.  The Portuguese are often quite serious natured, but they love to celebrate.  Carnaval in February is one of the year’s major events, and the parades are full of joy and laughter.  The town of Loule hosts the main one, but many of the villages have their own celebration.  I was lucky enough to catch the one in Paderne, not too far from Albufeira, this year.  The children delighted in wearing their fancy dress and skipping along behind the main procession.  If you do visit Paderne, don’t forget to check out the Corte Real art gallery.  It’s a lovingly restored very special farmhouse.

Carnaval carry-on at Paderne

A small ladybird gleefully joins the procession

Further inland, Alte has a great Carnaval celebration too, but more than this, there’s a superb Folklore Festival in May, and in September a traditional Wedding Ceremony.

Alte’s wedding ceremony is like no other

You can even pop very easily over the border to Spain from the Eastern Algarve.  Sanlucar de Guadiana has a beautifully costumed gypsy romeria the first weekend in May.  I came upon this quite by accident and it’s one of the delights of time spent in the Algarve that you can happen upon a local festival at almost any time of year.

There are lots of reasonably priced places to stay across the Algarve, but if you like the sound of the Eastern Algarve and don’t mind being just a little way from the main towns, newly opened Fazenda Nova will give you a warm reception.  Their “things to do” page will give you lots more ideas too.

The end of another lovely day in Tavira

These are my tips for tourists visiting the Algarve.  If you wind up in Tavira you may even find me, sitting with my evening glass of port, outside Anazu, watching the tiny swifts dart up to their nests above the cafe.  The riverside setting is perfect.  If I’m eating out, I could be round the corner at A Taska, just off Praca Dr. Padhina.  It’s the prettiest little restaurant I know.

If you need any more details, just ask. Many of my posts relate to the Algarve.  https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2012/01/23/b-is-for-beaches/ will give you a flavour of the area.

How fitting that I’m flying south again tomorrow.  Hope to see you there soon.

Sunday Post : People

“People.  People who need people, are the luckiest people in the world…”  I love this Barbara Streisand song.  Here I go again.  It’s sing-along-a-Jo Sunday and I’m taking part in Jakesprinter’s Sunday Post, while gently humming People to myself.

The funny thing is that though I consider myself a “people person”, when I saw Jake’s theme for this week I immediately thought “oh,no!” – I don’t have any people photos.  I’m one of those who waits patiently for someone to turn the corner or move out of range before I take my shot.  I don’t photograph well myself.  The smile never looks natural.  And when it comes to capturing someone on camera, I simply don’t have what it takes to draw out the best of them.  A beach or a tree don’t scowl at you, do they?  So I’m quite envious when I see shots full of character and personality.

Well- you didn’t think you were going to get out of it that easily, did you?  I suddenly remembered when it is that I’m more than happy to point my camera at people : the many occasions when people are lost in celebrations and abandon themselves quite happily to the moment.  Here are just a few:

Crowds line the streets, and even the rooftops, for the Festa dos Tabuleiros at Tomar.

Not an empty balcony or window frame in sight.

Impossible to take this shot without people in it! The flower-filled streets of Tomar.

Drummers at the Medieval Fair in Obidos

See what I mean? He was definitely scowling at me!

Come to think of it, they weren’t so happy either.

Lots of smiley faces on this Carnaval float at Paderne, though.

Not sure if these guys at Loule Carnaval come into the category of “people”?

Or these!

But they certainly know how to have a good time at Alte’s Folk Festival

I even slipped over the border into Spain to watch people having fun there.

So maybe I do take a few photographs of people, after all.  Many thanks to Jake for reminding me.

I won’t be able to join in with the challenge for the next couple of weeks because I’ll be pointing the camera at bridges in Porto and vineyards in the Douro valley.  I’m sure you’ll all keep Jake company, and I’ll find time to see what you’ve been up to when I get home.

Wonder what I’ll be singing next Sunday morning?  I won’t have Jake to prompt me.  I’ll leave you with some lovely entries from this week’s challenge.  View the others on the links or the flying dragon logo.

http://naomibaltuck.wordpress.com/2012/09/22/924/

http://firstandfabulous.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/sunday-post-people/

http://canoecommunications.wordpress.com/2012/09/22/sunday-beaches-and-music/

http://motherwifestudentworker.wordpress.com/2012/09/22/weekly-sunday-post-people/

http://speakcheats.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/sunday-post-photo-challenge-people/

http://bopaula.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/sunday-post-people/

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/people-need-people/

http://seraphim6.me/2012/09/23/sunday-post-people/

Six word Saturday

Six Word silence for two weeks

Cheers of celebration!  You might have enough time to read everybody else’s Six word Saturday (mine are notorious for being a bit lengthy).

The reason for my absence?  As usual, my answer is in pictorial form.

Porto by night, courtesy of Wikipedia Commons

And in case that’s not enough of a clue, here’s a link to a previous post of mine.

https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2012/02/16/d-is-for-douro/

You’ve guessed  it!  The time has finally come to make that dream a reality.  I don’t travel with any sort of gadgetry (not even the laptop- I sense withdrawal symptoms coming on already).  It’s just me, the husband and the notebook, and not necessarily in that order.  So there’ll be a lot of catching up to do when I get back, but I promise to come and see you all and check out what you’ve been up to.  Might even have the odd photograph!

Till then, stay safe, and don’t forget to visit Cate at Show My Face.  Her weeks aren’t always easy, but they’re always interesting.  If you miss me at all you can check out some of my previous 6WS’s on the button below.

Sunday Post : Autumn

“The falling leaves drift by the window
The autumn leaves of red and gold
I see your lips, the summer kisses
The sun-burned hands I used to hold…”

Delicious Nat King Cole.  Oh, that voice!  And then there’s another, wistful “Autumn Leaves” by Ed Sheeran- also a favourite of mine.  Sad songs, nostalgia… Autumn seems always to be about letting go.

I’m in denial!  Jakesprinter’s theme for this week is Autumn and beautiful though it is, I always approach the season regretfully.  It’s no secret, I’m a Summer bird.  Yet the lovely Virginia Creeper on the side of our house has no regard for my feelings, and is subtly, gently taking on those rosey hues.  It must know it gladdens my heart when I turn the corner of my street to be greeted by a wave of colour.

Nowhere better for walking in Autumn than the North Yorkshire villages.  Richmond is a wonderful place for kicking those leaves, beside the mighty River Swale.

Just a tickle of colour

Richmond Castle with a golden frame

The village green at Richmond

The rush of water that I love, the colours so subtle yet

The fine bright days are sometimes overshadowed by the cling of mist and damp, and I rely on the splash of colour from berries and leaves to revive my flagging spirits.

Kildale Abbey swathed in mist

Kilburn Village touched with dark rose

But then, as Autumn progresses, it turns cold and I’m tramping quickly through the woods to keep warm.

The woodland trail

Thankfully we’re not there yet, and I can enjoy some lingering warmth from the sun.  Or, like the birds, I’ll have to fly south for the Winter.

Many thanks to Jake for what is undoubtedly a beautiful theme.  I haven’t begun to do it justice here, but I’m sure you’ll find many inspiring photos if you click on the links or the fabulous flying dragon logo.  Perhaps he’d take me south?

Six word Saturday

Sparkling sea, clouds, boats and adventure?

The seafront at Hartlepool

A bright, clear day like this one always propels me to the sea shore.  On the horizon the chimneys of industry and the Power Station pump smoke into the atmosphere.  But on a day like this the sparkling water captures the eye and just won’t let go.

The sea is kept at bay by a defensive wall of rocks

It’s not the prettiest seafront.  The concrete defences are a sad necessity these days.  The local tip is just across the road, behind a low fence.  Sea coal often coats the beach- gritty reality.  Still the sun and the waves have the power to transport me beyond the merely physical.

Heading back to the harbour, the distant Headland peaks over the sea wall

The lock gates open to embrace the sea

Boat repairs and the sales office live side by side with the Coastguard

And then you’re into the marina proper

And every variety of boat is there

Mostly they’re white

If you’re lucky, the water goes on sparkling

And the adventure?  How could the high seas not offer adventure?  But my adventure is of a different nature this week and it’s time I paid tribute to Life is a Journey.  Reena has honoured me with the Adventurous Blogger Award.  I am constantly amazed at how far and wide my readers range these days.  Reena hails from the Philippines and is a relative newcomer to blogging.  If her photos of Rome by night are any indication of her talents, we have some treats in store.

In accepting the award I need to answer a few simple questions:

1. Where would you like your next adventure to be?

I’ve mostly only adventured in Europe and I have a serious hankering after the Far East.  All those temples and pagodas hold me in totally in thrall.  One day…one day.  Anyone out there want to offer me an assignment? (I know- get in line!)

2. Where would you recommend for an adventurous time?

Strange though it might sound, the island of Madeira.  There are many more exotic locations, but the landscape of Madeira is spectacular and very accessible.  You can go canyonning and levada walking in quite challenging terrain, and be surrounded by natural beauty.

3. What do you regard as the most interesting culture?

There are many oriental cultures I would love to experience.  Japan I would really love to visit, and newly opened Burma looks incredible.

4. What is your favourite holiday activity?

Exploring, exploring and more exploring.  I hate to miss anything. (nosey, my husband says)

5. What is the most dangerous activity you’ve undertaken?

The donkey ride from the harbour up to the cliff tops in Santorini.  I’m a bit of a scaredy cat and looking down a donkey’s nose into the caldera way below was more than enough excitement for me.  I much preferred the cable car ride back down.

6. What is your favourite quotation?

Not strictly a quote, but my mother always used to say “never let the sun set on your anger” and I agree one hundred percent.

7. Happiness is?

For me, simply a sunny day.

There, I’m all done.  Six Word Saturday, huh?  I do go on a bit!

I’m not going to nominate specific people to receive this award.  You adventurous types all know who you are and are very welcome to take up the award and run with it.  A previous 6WS page explains it better.  Please do go and visit Reena and make her as welcome to the blogging world as you’ve made me.

Just remains to say thanks to Cate at Show My Face.  See you all later today as I check out what you’ve done with your week?  The button below links to my previous Six Word Saturdays.

G is for Grażyna

Grażyna is the daughter of Dad’s oldest living brother, my Uncle Włodek.  He lives in Zgorzelec, and this post just seemed to follow on naturally from that one.  Grażyna was born in Zgorzelec, but when she contacted me, one of the first of my 26 Polish cousins to do so, I was astounded to find that she was living here in England, in Norfolk, with her husband and 3 sons.  Jarek is a boat builder by trade, and has built his own beautiful little sailing boat, so whenever they can, they go sailing on the Broads.

Mariusz, learning boating skills from an early age

And having fun with younger brother, Arek!

Norfolk isn’t exactly on our doorstep, but it’s much closer than Poland, so we’ve had the opportunity to get together a few times.  They came to the North East for Dad’s 80th birthday, soon after he was reunited with his Polish family.  We went exploring Norfolk with them the following year.  And their visit when the Tall Ships were here in 2010 was a fabulous occasion never to be forgotten.

Alexander von Humbolt by Tony Dowson

Last night fireworks by Tony Dowson

We met up again in Zakopane, in Poland, for the occasion of Adam and Marta’s Silver Wedding.  That was my first opportunity to properly meet Grażyna’s brother Wojtek and his family, who live in Wrocław.  We had great fun entertaining the six youngsters in the hotel gardens in Poronin.

They don’t have too many opportunities to get together, but last year Wojtek and son Mateusz came to Norfolk to celebrate Grażyna’s two youngest boys First Communion.  We arranged then that my niece Basia, Wojtek’s oldest daughter, would come and stay with me here in Hartlepool this summer.  Of course, I got to stay with them in Wrocław first.  More than a fair exchange!

After the First Communion, Grazyna, Rafal, Mateusz, Jarek, Arek and Mariusz

Dad, the priest, and Grazyna’s family

So that’s how we came to be together again with Grażyna, just briefly, this August.  She came to collect Basia for her first visit to Norfolk, and return home to Poland. Our get togethers are always very emotional, but we have a lot of fun too.  We all love the sea and boats, and we have an excellent free museum, perfect for those not so sunny days.  The Museum of Harlepool was the source of lots of mirth, as well as painlessly imparted knowledge.

We went to the beach first, but rain stopped play

Not before we’d created the SS Polska gunboat though

So, the Museum of Hartlepool it was :

Father Mariusz and Father Arek search for suitable gowns for their mission

A nautical look might be better for Arek, affectionately known as “Blondie”

We weren’t sure if this was a good look, but Mariusz liked it.

And there was no way to keep Arek out of the act!

They were more themselves in a boat, of course

Grażyna is a loving and wonderful mother, and she makes the most delicious cakes.  She brought a huge carob cake with her this trip and it was gone in a blink.  She is also the most affectionate of cousins.

It has been a privilege and a pleasure to watch this new family of mine growing up.  If you’re not familiar with Dad’s story it’s told in more detail here.

This post is part of my personal A-Z of Poland.  The idea was Julie Dawn Fox’s and I am indebted to her for the opportunity to share my Polish story with you.  If you would like to join in, you can find the details on this link, or the banner below.

Sunday Post : Morning

I’m humming away to myself this morning.  But then I’m a morning person, especially if that sun comes peaking over the rooftops, calling to me.  I mean, how can it be a hardship to get up and start a brand new day?

Jakesprinter’s theme for the Sunday Post this week is Morning.  I walk through a park very like yours on Saturdays, Jake.  I don’t have time to linger on a bench, but I always smile at the swans on the peaceful lake, the dog walkers, and sometimes an early morning toddler, kicking a ball with his dad.  Very often I’ll be singing Cat Stevens’ “Morning has broken”…  that most gentle celebration of the new day.

More prosaicly, my day always starts with a cup of coffee, and a book (though these days , the laptop sometimes wins).

Sparkling grapefruit?  A bit of toast, and I’m good to go.

That doesn’t vary much, even when I’m in the Algarve, but the scenery’s a whole lot different.  Often I sit up on the rooftop, gazing out over the salt marshes to the sea.  Sometimes I do a little t’ai chi, before it gets too hot.  Then maybe a stroll down to the bakery for fresh rolls.  I can seldom resist that early morning wander through the town.  Coming along?

There’s always a church spire, whichever way you look, in Tavira.

Irresistibly I’m drawn to the river, the boats tethered securely against the tide

It’s high tide beneath the Ponte Romana

The riverside houses need a touch of paint, but no less beautiful for that.

Looking back you can almost see Anazu, our favourite cafe, just out of shot.

If I’m feeling very energetic, then maybe a climb up to the castle walls

More often it’s a stroll through the riverside gardens

Especially if the bandstand’s festooned for one of the many local festivals

In the side streets you encounter many of Tavira’s exquisite town houses

Admire the prettiest church facade in Tavira

Or loiter in the shady chapel gardens

Just time to play on the stepping stones when nobody’s looking

Then off to the bakery before they sell out! Just one quick look back.

I’m going again in a few weeks, so thank you Jake for reminding me what I’m missing.  Apologies to those of you who’ve seen some of these images already in Talking about Tavira.  I hope it’s worth a second look?

This started as a morning post and it’s teatime already!  The evening will be spent checking out the other entries in Jakesprinter’s brilliant challenge.  Click on the flying dragon logo or the links to come with me.

Six word Saturday

Our English Heritage – walk with me?

Well, the young uns are back at school and, as often happens, we’re enjoying a last glimpse of Summer.  Whoo- hoo!  Share with me a balmy day in Barnard Castle, Teesdale. 

A first peak at the River Tees, sparkling in the sunlight

And cascading over the rocks

I love the power of the water as it slaloms down the river

Around the bend and a hint of castle appears

And then the bridge

Isn’t this how a ruined castle should look?

While the river flows respectfully by

Over the bridge

My favourite shot

Stay close to the river and cross over another bridge

A strange one this, but you can sit in the middle and contemplate

Time to wander back up the High St

Maybe a little window shopping?

Choose between ancient pub and “ye olde tea shoppe”

Who are these little characters?

Back to the bandstand and turn right, signed Bowes

And a chateau awaits, now Bowes Museum

But who is the gargoyle waiting for?

The view from the terraces

The griffin’s spotted something

Much to our surprise, a Bengali wedding is taking place

Heritage of every kind.  Hope you enjoyed our little stroll?  It was too warm to hurry.

Still sunny today and I’m off to walk across the park to my zumba class.  That’ll tire me out for the weekend!  Have a good one, won’t you?

Many thanks to Cath of Show My Face, our lovely lady hostess.  Click on the link or the banner to see full details, and you can follow my activities on the button below.