Looking down on the Great Hall

What finer place to start today than where I left off my tour of Castle Howard at Christmas, in the Great Hall?  The fire was roaring in the grate, and it needed to be, to heat this vast space.   I had completely forgotten the chill outdoors, in the sumptuousness of my surroundings.  Looking up at the dome, I could only marvel at the skill and resourcefulness that had repaired the enormous damage done by the 1940 fire.

The story of the fire and the Brideshead connection are the subjects of the exhibition in High Saloon, where my tour takes us next.  These rooms were completely destroyed in the fire, including painted frescoes by Pellegrini from 1709. New joists and flooring were installed in the 1970s, but the interiors were still burnt-out shells in 2007.  It was maybe a stroke of genius to turn these rooms into a film set for the filming of Evelyn Waugh’s novel Brideshead Revisited.  In 1981 and again in 2008, Castle Howard became Brideshead, with a cast of stars.

The casting for the dome fresco

Castle Howard has been used for a number of film productions, the most recent of which was Death comes to Pemberley in 2014.  Is it really any wonder?

Just look what I’ve spotted! Haven’t owls always been popular?

Such an opulent dining room

And what a table setting!

A room recently opened for viewing by the public is the New Library, formerly the Canaletto Room, which also was destroyed by the fire.  Books have been collected on every conceivable subject relating to the estate, creating a warm and welcoming space.

Everything for the good Victorian child appears to be the theme of the next room.  See any old favourites?  Ooh, that rocking horse, please!

The Doll’s House is truly life-sized

Can you see inside?

A train set, of course!

A rocking horse or a bear?

Nor have the adults been knowingly neglected.

There’s a Music Room, naturally

And a Crimson Dining Room

With another roaring fire

But the Turquoise Drawing Room is rather a favourite

With a duck and a mince pie

And a wonderful swag of curtain

And how hard is it to pick your favourite tree?

I think we’re not too far from the end.  The Long Gallery comes next, 160 feet long, with an Octagon lined with books as its centrepiece.  Today a cellist is playing Christmas tunes.

The Long Gallery

With the Octagon at its centre

With fabulous tapestries

The most exquisite furnishings

And the prettiest baubles on the tree

Just a little venture into the Chapel, then I think we can go home.  Originally intended to be a dining room (another one!), in the 1870s the floor was lowered, a new entrance created and the now chapel was redecorated in the pre-Raphaelite style.  The Howard family were patrons of William Morris, and one of his works was a stained glass window for a nearby Reformatory. This has long since closed and the window is currently on loan to Castle Howard.

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I expect your eyes are tired of looking now.  Mine are, just a little, but I’ve so enjoyed putting together my experience of Castle Howard at Christmas.  I hope you’ve enjoyed it too.  The website is full of details and photographs and I’ve included a few links, in case you’re interested.

Last year I went to Chatsworth House in Derbyshire at Christmas time, and the two stately homes have much in common.  Both have hosted film crews for Brideshead and other period dramas. Where Chatsworth enthrals with its grand themes, Castle Howard seduces with a very traditional Christmas.  I have to say that I like both.  How about you?

From the moment I walked into Castle Howard, I knew that I was in for something very special. Lozenges of light filtered down the Grand Staircase, from the 74-paned skylight overhead.  It was almost like walking on hallowed ground.  Yet I knew that the Howard family were a very real presence, in this home that brims with history.

On Monday I took you for a walk in the magnificent grounds, and I promised you a little more colour than my grey skies.  Do you recognise the Mausoleum in this painting?

The passages and hallways are full of exquisite works of art.  Rarely have I seen so much wealth and beauty accumulated under one roof.  Furniture and porcelain collections are lavishly distributed throughout the house, and there are guides on hand, more than happy to engage with you and share the tales that surround each piece.

Around all this is woven the magic of a classical Christmas.  I will take you through the house in the order that it was revealed, with great pride, to me.

The Grand Staircase

And the first of many sculptures

Remarkable cabinetry

The mahogony cabinet, housing over 300 pieces of china, including Sevres

And the first of many Christmas trees

With the most magnificent of peacocks!

The Howards have lived almost continuously in this house ever since it was built by Charles Howard, 3rd Earl of Carlisle, at the beginning of the 18th century.  The current residents are the Hon. Simon Howard and his wife Rebecca, with their twins.

The Antique Passage leads to the first of the bedrooms

Lady Georgiana’s bedroom, with many family portraits

And another pretty tree!

You couldn’t accuse the house of being understated.  It’s very much a case of ‘if you’ve got it, flaunt it’, but with beautiful elegance.

How about this for a mirrored fireplace?

Or this beautifully marbled one?

Adornments are everywhere

Whimsically pretty

And full of smiles

Or ferociously savage!

Impressive it may be, but all this is but a prelude to the main feature.  The Great Hall is likely to provoke at least an intake of breath!  Astonishing to think that the lovely dome which crowns it crashed to the floor during the great fire of 1940.  The details of the ongoing restoration are contained in the ‘Brideshead Restored’ exhibition in High South.

The 70ft high restored dome in the Great Hall

The High South stairs offer dramatic glimpses of the Great Hall through the arches.

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I am only halfway through my tour of this magnificent house and, as I don’t want eyes to glaze over, I propose to stop here.  I hope you’ll return with me.  There is still much opulence to be enjoyed, including the Chapel, with stained glass by William Morris.

If you’d like to see Castle Howard in all its Christmas finery, you have until 21st December.  Just time, isn’t there?  Full details are on the website.