Algarve

Cee’s fun foto challenge : water

Do I need a logo?  I’m not sure.  I’ve never taken part in Cee’s fun foto challenge before.  But I do know that I love water, and that’s this week’s subject.  So I’m going to shower you with a few of my damper moments.

Ooh, look Mum!

Ooh, look Mum!

Water feature in the Rynek (market square), Wroclaw

Water feature in the Rynek (market square), Wroclaw

A little warm rain in the botanic gardens

A little warm rain in the botanic gardens

The moorhen doesn't seem to mind

The moorhen doesn’t seem to mind

Japanese water gardens always look so serene

Japanese water gardens always look so serene

Or you can have dancing waters and a musical accompaniment

Or you can have dancing waters, with a musical accompaniment

Especially pretty on a night

Especially pretty by night

I like my water on the wild side too

I like my water on the wild side too

Or lapping gently at a shoreline

Or lapping gently at a shoreline

With a few bubbles in it

With a few bubbles in it, for fun

Or the odd branch

Or the odd branch, dangling down

Or stunningly,as part of a "waterfall" light installation

Most stunningly, as part of a “waterfall” light installation

I probably should stop now.  My eyes are tired, and maybe yours are too.  But I’m not good at doing things by halves, so maybe just a couple of my lovely Portugal to finish with.

Tickling a sunny square in the Algarve

Water tickling a sunny square in Lagos, the Algarve

And sparkling in the Douro at Porto

And sparkling in the Douro at Porto

So many shots I have of that Douro

So many lovely shots I have of the Douro

Time to let the sun set, at Peso da Regua

But it’s time to let the sun set, at Peso da Regua

I did say that I love water, didn’t I?  And I know that I’m not on my own, so visit Cee’s page to join in with the challenge, or view the many other great entries.

I is for Ilhas (islands)

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Landing stage on Tavira Island

Landing stage on Tavira Island

This is where it all began for me- the knowledge that there were islands off the southern shore of Portugal.  And ever since, it has been one of my special delights, whenever I’m in the Algarve, to seek out an ilha, or island, to explore.

As you fly into Faro, often the plane will follow the coastline and dip low over the Ria Formosa, a natural habitat of salt marshes.  Still, it does not really prepare you for the fact that there is an island life out there, just waiting for your approach.

If you’re staying in Tavira, of course, it immediately becomes apparent.  “Where is the beach?” you enquire, knowing full well that the Algarve boasts some of Europe’s finest.  You will be directed to the ferry terminal, and there begins your adventure.  If it’s summertime you can catch the ferry from the town, and chug away from Tavira’s beguiling skyline through the salt marshes.  In winter you will have to be a little more independent and make your way to Quatro Aguas, on foot or bike.  It’s a half hour walk, and not one that you would happily undertake in the heat of summer.

The quayside at Quatro Aguas

The quayside at Quatro Aguas

Chugging out past the salt marshes

Chugging out past the salt marshes

And then you arrive

And then you arrive

If you’re feeling lazy, you can just plonk down on the river beach and watch the to and fro-ing of the boats.  Occasionally a jet ski might zip past, disturbing the calm, but more often it’s the sailing school, out to practise manouvres.  For the wider expanse of the ocean, you can cross over the island, beneath fragrant pines, running the low key gamut of a few restaurants, ever open for business.

On the shoreline, simply stroll, with the tongues of water teasing and licking at your toes.  Look back over your shoulder and you will see the ilha of Cabanas.  I have a gentle love/hate relationship with Cabanas.  To me it represents that commercial face of the Algarve that I came east to escape.  Yet poke about in the back streets and the character is there still.  In the off season you might even regard it as perfection.  The fishing village is undeniably eroded, but catch the water taxi across to the island and all is forgiven.  I have walked and walked till I could barely stand, until finally the beach begins to undulate and break up into sandbars.

A Cabanas water taxi

A Cabanas water taxi

Ilha de Cabanas from the boardwalk

Ilha de Cabanas from the boardwalk

Ria Formosa

Ria Formosa at Cabanas

A Cabanas sunset

A Cabanas sunset

Cabanas is the most easterly of the ilhas.  Tavira Island comes next as you head west, and can also be accessed from Santa Luzia and Barril.  Yes, it IS that big.

Skipping on along the coast, you come to the village of Fuseta.  From here it’s an easy ride across to the easterly tip of the next ilha in the chain, Armona.  What will you find?  Very little other than endless beach, and in some places an interesting perspective back to the mainland.

Fuseta from the ferry terminal

Fuseta from the ferry terminal

The salt marshes at Fuzeta

The salt marshes at Fuzeta

Looking back at Fuzeta from Armona

Looking back at Fuzeta from Armona

The main access to Armona is from the bustling fishing port, Olhao, which will be the subject of a later A-Z post.  If I were ever to take up residence on one of the islands, it would be Armona.  For me, it has everything I would need.  A pretty little harbour, lots of shallow inlets for paddling, charming beach houses, a couple of restaurants, a shop and a church.  All I would need would be my little boat, and the dream would be complete.  Meanwhile, the ferry does a fine job.  Saturday mornings, when the islanders come over to Olhao market for provisions, all kinds of everything are transported.

Looking across Armona to the mainland

Looking across Armona to the mainland

Armona beach houses

Armona beach houses

Culatra is the next ilha we meet.  Ferries make the round trip out of Olhao, calling first at the easterly tip of the island, and then at Farol, whose namesake, the lighthouse, can be seen from far and wide.  Not dissimilar to Armona in style, you will have to judge for yourself where your preference lies.  I gather that it’s a great spot for fishing.  Myself, I just like to get off at one stop and potter along the beach to the other.  Whether you do this on the landward side or by the ocean will affect what you are likely to find at your feet.

Farol, the iconic lighthouse on Culatra

Farol, the iconic lighthouse on Culatra

Faro, the capital of the Algarve, also provides access to Armona and Culatra, both by regular ferry and excursion.

The last of the ilhas is only accessible from Faro, unless you have your own boat.  Barreta, or Ilha Deserta as it is commonly known, is the most southerly of the islands.  Do not attempt a visit here without full sun protection.  There is no shelter, other than the restaurant “O Estamine”, from the sun’s blistering rays, although you might not always be aware of this due to a cooling breeze.

The view from Ilha Deserta

Ilha Deserta

That’s as far as my explorations have gone, so far.  Until I get that boat, I won’t be able to visit any of the smaller ilhas.  Be assured, when I do, you’ll hear of it.  Meantime if you have any questions or want details on getting there, you only have to ask.

Many thanks, as ever, to Julie Dawn Fox for providing the opportunity to share this post on the Personal A-Z Challenge.  To join in, and read related posts, click on the link or the banner below.

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Sunday Post : Wonderful

Jake’s back, and how wonderful that is!  In case you’re “wonder”-ing, yes, I did go to the fireworks last night.  The tide was coming in as I walked along the promenade, and there was a delicious whoosh as the sea met the shore.  The white caps in the darkness were beautiful- just one of the many wonderful sights that make up this world of ours.

I’ve never witnessed any of the spectacular world-renowned sights that fill our world with wonder- the Grand Canyon, the Great Wall of China, Macchu Pichu…  I’m going to start small, with the things that are wonderful to me.

Lisa, on the beach at Scarborough

My wonderful firstborn child.  I make no apologies for the quality of the photo, which is 38 years old.  What you can’t see from this shot is the absolute fear which gripped me that day, as I thought I’d lost her, there on the beach.  Or the relief when she was returned to me, wailing, as I frantically combed the beach.  Or the wonder that she is now a fullgrown and beautiful woman.

James, by the lakeshore at Fuschl, in Austria

Nineteen years behind his sister, James brought his own wonder.  Here, I think he’s wondering which piece to move next?

When it comes to family, it doesn’t get more wonderful than the reunion that brought my Dad together with his brothers and sisters in Poland, after 64 years of separation.

Together, at last, in Poland

So that’s the sentimental part.  For me, it’s always wonderful to wake to the sun, rising in the sky.  The sky and the cloud formations are endlessly fascinating as the sun climbs up through them. 

An Algarve sky has a different quality.  The view from my Tavira rooftop is wonderful to me.

And the sky so often ends up purest blue, reflected in the sparkling sea.

Just now and then, I can capture some clouds.

Often they build towards the end of the day, then it’s over, as wonderfully as it began.

What do you find wonderful in the world?  There is so much to celebrate, and Jakesprinter works hard every week to share with us his talent.  He would love you to share your world too.  Don’t worry- he’s always kind.  Follow the flying dragon or the links to join us.

No song this week?  My friend Madhu says “What a wonderful World”, but I was singing that old Jimmy Ruffin song.

My Algarve Insider Tips

Call me mean if you like but I’m always reluctant to share too many tips, for fear that my favourite Algarve places become over popular.  In general I like my beaches to be empty.  But Easyjet have tempted me to share a few things that might make your Algarve experience that little bit more special.  I’m always glad to promote Portugal – it’s a beautiful place.

The Ria Formosa from the castle walls of tiny Cacela Velha

So shall we start with the beaches?  They’re hard to ignore, and why would you?  My personal favourites are those that you reach by boat.  Watching the sun glint off the water as you glide towards your beach of choice is my idea of heaven.  I’m an Eastern Algarve lass, and Tavira Island beach is my natural habitat.  It’s in the Ria Formosa so you’ll be able to spy out egrets and heron as the boat heads down river.  Looking back, pretty Tavira fills the skyline.

Tavira’s iconic Ponte Romana bridge, church and water tower

Tavira Island ferry, surrounded by an international sailing regatta

If you happen to be a landlubber, you can reach a stretch of the same beach by land train from Barril, a little further west.  I usually ride out and walk back, depending on the time of day.  Tiny crabs scuttle in the salt marshes and wispy pines shade the varying blooms.

My lazy husband loves to catch the land train over to Barril on Tavira Island

I’ve already hinted that I love boats, and the harbour at Olhao is the perfect jump off point for the islands of Armona and Culatra.  The ferry loads up with all manner of goods from the local market before slipping past the yachts in the marina and across the limpid sea.  Armona, my favourite, is a bare 20 minutes away, but it’s a different world.  In Summer the beach houses that line the narrow paths across the island may be lazily occupied, but it’s still not hard to find your very own stretch of sand.  If the heat becomes too much, a cluster of restaurants provide welcome shade.  Youngsters cool off rather more dramatically by plunging off the pier.

Looking across Armona to the mainland

Culatra is slightly further distant.  Chances are you’ll have seen the lighthouse at Farol as the plane banked in the skies over Faro airport.  As with Armona, a small community lives on the island, and you can wander the sandy paths down to the sea.  The ferry makes two stops on Culatra so it’s possible to disembark at the first and paddle along the shoreline to Farol, then pick up a later ferry back to Olhao.  A couple of cafes offer shade with a sea view.  The sun sliding down the sky on a golden evening is the perfect ending to a day by the water.  You might even spot a dolphin or two, playing in the waves as you sail home.

Farol, the lighthouse on Culatra

If your base is further west in the Algarve, you can sail out of Faro to reach Culatra, or to Barreta, popularly known as Ilha Deserta.  Don’t go without your sunscreen- the reflection off the sea will tan you instantly, and the only shelter is at O Estamine, the Algarve’s most southerly restaurant.

Peace and calm at the end of the day, just the tinkle of masts

As well as bobbing about in boats, I very much like to walk.  The Algarve has some truly beautiful countryside, and one of the best ways to see it is to join a walking group.  These are advertised each week in the “Portugal News”.  You benefit from the local knowledge of the walk leader, and like-minded people to chat to along the way.  People are always keen to share tidbits like the best places to eat and drink cheaply.  The walks usually include a stop off at a restaurant as a reward for your walking efforts.

Really keen walkers might like to check out the Via Algarviana, an inland walking trail which stretches all the way from Alcoutim at the Spanish border out to the very tip of the Algarve.  It’s possible to walk just a small section, or to book accommodation along the route in local farmhouses.  It’s an Algarve many people never glimpse, or even dream of.  You might be lucky and spot some of the spectacularly pretty bee-eaters, swooping low over the water, or a hoopoe hiding in the trees.

Looking out from Alcoutim across the river to Sanlucar de Guadiana, in Spain

Bikers are not neglected either.  Cycle tours are also featured in the “Portugal News” (grab one free at the airport on your way in).  There’s a coastal cycle path which is great for getting the wind in your hair on one of those warm Algarve days.  Bike hire is widely available throughout the area.

To really add some Algarve flavour to your holiday, you should try to seek out a festival.  The Portuguese are often quite serious natured, but they love to celebrate.  Carnaval in February is one of the year’s major events, and the parades are full of joy and laughter.  The town of Loule hosts the main one, but many of the villages have their own celebration.  I was lucky enough to catch the one in Paderne, not too far from Albufeira, this year.  The children delighted in wearing their fancy dress and skipping along behind the main procession.  If you do visit Paderne, don’t forget to check out the Corte Real art gallery.  It’s a lovingly restored very special farmhouse.

Carnaval carry-on at Paderne

A small ladybird gleefully joins the procession

Further inland, Alte has a great Carnaval celebration too, but more than this, there’s a superb Folklore Festival in May, and in September a traditional Wedding Ceremony.

Alte’s wedding ceremony is like no other

You can even pop very easily over the border to Spain from the Eastern Algarve.  Sanlucar de Guadiana has a beautifully costumed gypsy romeria the first weekend in May.  I came upon this quite by accident and it’s one of the delights of time spent in the Algarve that you can happen upon a local festival at almost any time of year.

There are lots of reasonably priced places to stay across the Algarve, but if you like the sound of the Eastern Algarve and don’t mind being just a little way from the main towns, newly opened Fazenda Nova will give you a warm reception.  Their “things to do” page will give you lots more ideas too.

The end of another lovely day in Tavira

These are my tips for tourists visiting the Algarve.  If you wind up in Tavira you may even find me, sitting with my evening glass of port, outside Anazu, watching the tiny swifts dart up to their nests above the cafe.  The riverside setting is perfect.  If I’m eating out, I could be round the corner at A Taska, just off Praca Dr. Padhina.  It’s the prettiest little restaurant I know.

If you need any more details, just ask. Many of my posts relate to the Algarve.  https://restlessjo.wordpress.com/2012/01/23/b-is-for-beaches/ will give you a flavour of the area.

How fitting that I’m flying south again tomorrow.  Hope to see you there soon.

Sunday Post : Morning

I’m humming away to myself this morning.  But then I’m a morning person, especially if that sun comes peaking over the rooftops, calling to me.  I mean, how can it be a hardship to get up and start a brand new day?

Jakesprinter’s theme for the Sunday Post this week is Morning.  I walk through a park very like yours on Saturdays, Jake.  I don’t have time to linger on a bench, but I always smile at the swans on the peaceful lake, the dog walkers, and sometimes an early morning toddler, kicking a ball with his dad.  Very often I’ll be singing Cat Stevens’ “Morning has broken”…  that most gentle celebration of the new day.

More prosaicly, my day always starts with a cup of coffee, and a book (though these days , the laptop sometimes wins).

Sparkling grapefruit?  A bit of toast, and I’m good to go.

That doesn’t vary much, even when I’m in the Algarve, but the scenery’s a whole lot different.  Often I sit up on the rooftop, gazing out over the salt marshes to the sea.  Sometimes I do a little t’ai chi, before it gets too hot.  Then maybe a stroll down to the bakery for fresh rolls.  I can seldom resist that early morning wander through the town.  Coming along?

There’s always a church spire, whichever way you look, in Tavira.

Irresistibly I’m drawn to the river, the boats tethered securely against the tide

It’s high tide beneath the Ponte Romana

The riverside houses need a touch of paint, but no less beautiful for that.

Looking back you can almost see Anazu, our favourite cafe, just out of shot.

If I’m feeling very energetic, then maybe a climb up to the castle walls

More often it’s a stroll through the riverside gardens

Especially if the bandstand’s festooned for one of the many local festivals

In the side streets you encounter many of Tavira’s exquisite town houses

Admire the prettiest church facade in Tavira

Or loiter in the shady chapel gardens

Just time to play on the stepping stones when nobody’s looking

Then off to the bakery before they sell out! Just one quick look back.

I’m going again in a few weeks, so thank you Jake for reminding me what I’m missing.  Apologies to those of you who’ve seen some of these images already in Talking about Tavira.  I hope it’s worth a second look?

This started as a morning post and it’s teatime already!  The evening will be spent checking out the other entries in Jakesprinter’s brilliant challenge.  Click on the flying dragon logo or the links to come with me.

Sunday Post : From a Distance

How did Jakesprinter know that this was to be my 100th post, and that I hoped it would be a bit special?  I’m not at all sure, but he’s right on target with this week’s Sunday Post theme, From a Distance.

I’m starting with the words of Bette Midler :

From a distance
There is harmony
And it echoes through the land
Its the voice of hope
Its the voice of peace
Its the voice of every man.

The Ria Formosa from Cacela Velha

This photo speaks to me of harmony and peace.

In writing this, I’m far distant from the Eastern Algarve shoreline that I love so much. Of course, Jake is talking about distance as in perspective and long range photography, and I will try to select my photos accordingly.  Still I can’t help but yearn for faraway things.  It’s part of my “restlessjo” nature.  I sometimes wonder if the Algarve would be so dearly loved if it were everyday and familiar.  Someday I hope to retire there, and then I’ll find out.

One of those irresistible Algarve beaches, wandering off into the distance

Looking out from the town walls of Elvas on the endless plains of the Alentejo

The far distant Silver Coast, seen from Sintra’s Pena Palace

Nearer to home, but still a view from afar, I spent a great few days in the company of my lady friends, in riot torn London in August 2011.  Looking at this peaceful shot, who’d have thought it?

The Royal Naval College at Greenwich with Canary Wharf on the horizon

The peace and serenity that accompanies me when I’m out walking is precious.  My restlessness is soothed in wide open spaces.

Ambling downhill towards Robin Hood’s Bay

Distinctive landscape and a far off lake in Upper Teesdale

The pier at Whitby and a group of walkers, from a distance

I’ll finish with Bette :

From a distance
You look like my friend
Even though we are at war
From a distance
I just cannot comprehend
What all this fightings for
From a distance
There is harmony
And it echoes through the land
And its the hope of hopes
Its the love of loves
Its the heart of every man

It’s one of those songs that leaves a lump in my throat, so I hope that Jake doesn’t mind me sharing it in this post today.  Jake and Sundays.  They’re a winning combination.

To join in with Jake’s challenge and see what everybody else has made of it, click on the flying dragon logo or any of the links.  I’ve enjoyed post 100, and all of those that went before.  I’m hoping that you have too.  Thank you for reading.

Enjoying all the other posts reminded me that distance always seems to play a part in my relationship with my daughter, Lisa.  I love her dearly.  Many thanks to Gemma at First and Fabulous for this.

T is for the Tavira Vase

Now this may not be what you’re expecting, but I’m well aware that I’ve filled pages with the delights of Tavira, in Portugal’s Algarve.  So I thought I’d dedicate my “T” post to something I find quite intriguing- the Tavira Vase.

As I walk around Tavira I’m constantly aware of renovation work going on.  Many of the older buildings have been painstakingly restored, the Galeria Palace being a prime example.

At the reverse of the building, excavation has been in progress for some time.  A long promised museum, dedicated to locally discovered Islamic Art, finally opened in April last year.  On display are fragments of many of the mosaics originally incorporated into local buildings.

The centrepiece of the museum is the Tavira Vase, and I include the link as it explains the function far better than I am able to.  My husband describes it as a water feature, but then, he would!  http://www.discoverislamicart.org/database_item.php?id=object;ISL;pt;Mus01_C;9;en

The museum is situated behind the Tourist Information Office.  It’s a shame that the information displayed is all in Portuguese, however there is a video with English subtitles to give you a historical overview.  I found it moved at too rapid a pace, and would have liked a little more detail.  It’s a good start, however, and as I wander Tavira’s streets now, I’m more able to visualise how once it might have looked.

If you’re not familiar with Tavira, then please let me introduce you.  I fall in love with it all over again when I read this post.

I’ve been contributing to Julie Dawn Fox’s A-Z Challenge for some time now.  If you’d like to join in, click on the banner below, or view my previous entries on my A-Z pages above.

Sunday Post : Silence

My friend Jake has come up with the theme of Silence for this week’s Sunday Post challenge.  Hush!  I’m searching for the sound.

How rare is silence!  At home, with the TV and radio turned off, still there’s that intermittent ping of the fridge, a gurgle from the central heating, or the steady breathing of my laptop.  Walking down the street, my head buzzes with thoughts and words, never mind the rumbling of the traffic.

So where do you find silence?  For me, the gentle Algarve countryside is peace and quiet itself.  Bird song, or maybe the rustle of the eucalyptus, is all of the sound.

Rio Arade, with Silves in the far distance

Even the Algarve villages can be a place of refuge and silence.

Looking out from the village of Salir

A quiet corner in the village

Empty beaches on the Ria Formosa, with sandbars that stretch for miles, have no lapping tide to disturb the stillness.

Ria Formosa at Cacela Velha

Wide, open spaces characterise the west coast, but peace there can often be disturbed by the crash of the waves.

Still, there’s always an empty cove to be found, at the right time of the day.

The beach at Burgau

And as the day ends, sunlight, glinting on the water, carries no sound.

Algar Seco, near Carvoeira

Cliff tops have always held appeal for me.  High above the water, I revel in the silence.

Clifftop near Staithes, North Yorks

Far from the Algarve, the North York moors owe their restorative powers to the stillness of their ridges and valleys.

Ruggedly beautiful, the Moors can be a bit of a scramble

But so worth it!

Roseberry Topping in the far distance

And when the colours roll in…

August’s riotous colours

…there’s no place like it.  Even the bees hum quietly.

So where do you go to find your silence?  It’s something to be treasured.  Something that all of us need.

Jake has given so much pleasure in providing this opportunity to look at and experience our world.  Many thanks to him.  You will always be welcomed to Jakesprinter’s world.  Please, just follow the link.

Six word Saturday

Random moments from an Algarve week

Fonte Pequena (little fountain) at Alte

It had just bounced with rain and the bottle brush plant was sodden.

The Folklore Festival and Wedding Ceremony at Alte

 Then there’s one that would fit well in my recent post on “fontes”.

The fountain in Praca da Republica, Tavira

And an item that I was much taken with.  More to come in a future post.

The Tavira vase, on display in the new Islamic Museum

Then my little side trip with Flat Ruthie.

The village of Sanlucar de Guadiana, on the Spanish side of the Spain/Portugal border

A handsome caballero

Keeping watch over the Guadiana

Tangled in the orange blossom in Castro Marim

So now you know how I spent my week.  It was wonderful looking back and now it’s your turn.  To play Six word Saturday you need to visit Cate’s Show My Face so click on the link or the banner at the top of this page, and get started.  My Six word Saturday page will show you what I’ve been up to in the past.  Feel free to browse.  See you next week.

Six word Saturday

Seeking new memories, in the Algarve

Castle walls, Lagos

Old harbour, Lagos

Mertola

Over the garden wall, Mertola

Another fountain candidate? Silves

Pego do Inferno

Cascades nearby Pego do Inferno

Grab a table at Mesa do Cume

Palace gardens, Estoi

Look, but don't touch! Vilamoura

Waterside at Cabanas

Easy to see why I keep going back, isn’t it?  I’ll be in the Algarve next week, making new memories to share, so I’ll miss the next Six week Saturday.  Why not join in with Cate?  Everybody’s got a story to share.  Follow the link to see what it’s all about.  You can click on the button below to see my previous posts, and I’ll look forward to seeing yours.