That seems to be the theme of my week so far. In case you missed it, I raised a smile with a square on Thursday. Today I’m going for beauty. Becky is determined to turn our March Square. Why fight it? And, with a little thought, you can describe it all in six words.
Have a happy weekend!
It’s impossible not to be dragged into one of Becky’s challenges, isn’t it, no matter how gloomy you may be feeling? I only wish I had a Mad March Hare, though I probably shouldn’t have said that. Someone’s sure to come up with one.
Go on! Take part! It only takes a few minutes to find a March Square.
Feeling a little fragile as I write this- too much dancing, wine and excitement!- so please excuse me if I just stroll gently with you in the Algarve sunshine. São Bras de Alportel makes an excellent base for walking, surrounded as it is by softly rolling countryside. Allow me to indulge my current obsession with chimney pots…. and blossom, of course.
Starting from the former pousada, with grand views to the hills, you can follow a couple of simple trails. Notice boards will advise what you need to be watchful for, or you can simply enjoy being there, drenched in the soft colours of Spring.
At a crossroads the sign points towards the ‘miradouro das castanhas’, the viewing point of the chestnuts. Curiosity would have me look, but the group I’m walking with turn in the other direction. I make a mental note to return, and patiently follow. Minutes later we pause at a fonte- one of many underground springs in the Algarve. A poem enhances the old stone and one of our group attempts a translation. A squeal of laughter interrupts. Another of the ladies has twirled the handle of the ‘nora’ (well) with a little too much energy, and is treated to a swift gush of water.
There was very little water and a lot of dry riverbeds when I walked in this area, but since then a day or three of torrential rain has brought the countryside alive again. Flipflops or sandals and a towel may be needed. Better still a sense of balance or a walking stick.
Rounding a hill it’s often possible to come upon a herd of sheep, with their faint air of apprehension and surprise. Washing flutters appealingly on a line, while lemons ripen and flowers I don’t recognise make patterns on a wall.
This is cork territory and some of the trails lead beneath these gnarled beauties. Someone has a sense of humour, but I’m not sure that I approve. The ‘knight’, on the other hand, can only be greeted with a smile. But I did promise you chimney pots, I remember.
Every village has it’s own variations, some crumbly with age, some new. The village of São Romão has a lovely church and a deep sense of serenity.
It also has a a restaurant that we favour very often. I’ll leave you with a little something sour and a sweet treat, to enjoy with your cuppa.
Excuse me for rambling this week. I’m so looking forward to the frigid air of the north east tomorrow evening. Please read and share the following walks, and join me with one of your own, if you’d like. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.
Jude does take us to some beautiful places! And did you spot a few circles in a square?
And quite often, Drake excels himself too :
For those of you craving warmth, why not join Elaine in the desert?
Jackie always likes a large one of these!
And just look what Irene’s found for us this week!
But this one from Ting simply has to be my walk of the week. Don’t miss it!
That’s it for now. Not too many to read. Hope you have a great week, wherever you are.
Hot stuff, to keep you warm!
I’ve never been closer to the action and the evening was all a bit of a blur. I’m sorry that my photos can’t do it better justice but I hope that they convey a little of the heat and passion in Jerez during the Flamenco Festival. What a show!
Debbie’s sheep has lots of hair to keep it warm. Join her with Six Words to sum up your week?
Meet Serpa! Small town Alentejo at it’s very finest. You may think I’m leading a slothful life, induced by food, wine and intoxicating sunshine, here in the Algarve, but I do occasionally stir myself to take you somewhere special.
It’s an easy whizz up the IC27 from Castro Marim, on a switchback road of magnificent views. Suddenly you reach the extremity of the Algarve, glide across the border and hit a narrow country road. Straights, twists and turns, endless eucalyptus trees, nesting storks and lazy cows. Almost no people, and often you can see for miles, beyond an isolated farmhouse. This is rural Alentejo. A searing hot place in Summer, but a good place to be on a sunny Spring day. Skirting around Mertola, a right turn and gentle persistence (known as N265) will bring you to sleepy Serpa.
Don’t you love these heroically gnarled olive trees? Following signs to the historic quarter, I note the unusual chimney pots. Narrow streets, with deep pools of shade, cutting off the sun’s glare, are very typical of this region.
It’s always a surprise to step out of the shadows into the magnificense of Praca da Republica. Bathed in sunlight, the grey and white loses its solemnity. Meanwhile Cafe Alentejano dispenses food to all comers, especially when it’s lunchtime for those in the grandiose council offices. I recline, with wine, happily adjusted to this pace of life, and then nonchalantly wander, pausing to appreciate window delights.
Steeped in history, Serpa dates back to the pre-Roman era and has, at various times, been occupied by Celts, Romans, Moors and the Spanish. Just 30 kilometres away, Beja (known to the Romans as Pax Julia) was their southern capital of Lusitania. Near to the Guadiana river and the border with Spain, Serpa was a defensive stronghold, belying its current peaceful nature.
Leaving the square, I’m confronted by the bell tower of a church and a mighty flight of steps. Mounting them, I am level with the rooftops.
But the surprises don’t end there. Turn a corner, and how about this for a castle entrance?
A nervous glance overhead and I’m into the castle forecourt and gazing around. Plinths display remnants of gleaming stone frieze and a flight of steps leads tantalisingly aloft. Since I was here last work has been carried out to make the castle walls more accessible (including a lift). I climb with mounting excitement until, finally…. I can see for miles!
The castle keep was damaged by Spanish invasion, and in 1295, following the Reconquista, King D. Dinis ordered the reconstruction of the castle and a walled fortification. These were added to in 17th century. I stay up there for a long time, examining each and every angle, entranced by all that I can see. Can you spot my final destination?
Eventually the aqueduct lures me off the wall. I can really do no better than let Becky tell you all about it. She and her husband are enthusiasts.
My idea of a grand day out, I hope you’ve enjoyed it. Our road home through the Alentejo was enhanced by a brief visit to Mina de S. Domingo, with it’s striking church and lakeside walks. An adventure for another day.
It’s a stormy prospect in the Algarve this week. Part of me hopes that it won’t disrupt tomorrow’s challenging walk, but part of me won’t mind if it does. Becoming lazy in my old age! Not sure if I will share a walk with you next week as I’m off to the lovely city of Jerez on Wednesday. When I return I’ll only have a few days left in the Algarve, and plan to enjoy them. Meantime, thanks to all my contributors. It must be time to get that kettle on and settle in for a good read.
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Starting our walks with Anabel this week. A little damp but lots of diversions :
You could say that Jackie has a fondness for food, as well as sunshine :
Lady Lee loves both of those. This is a wonderfully colourful post :
It’s a white world, in Irene’s eyes, whichever way you look at it :
Something completely different from Geoff (and his Dad) :
The Old Road (with random pictures…) #dad’spoems
And from my lovely friend, Drake, who recently lost his Dad :
Becky’s walk last week ended in tears, or certainly a great degree of discomfort. Hope you’re back to normal, Robert!
Sunbathing goats, snakes and Little Owls
Staggeringly beautiful in the sunlight, join Carol, Down Under :
Eunice was losing sleep over this one. Last Drop Village sounds tempting :
That’s it from me, for now. Take good care, and join me soon for another Jo’s Monday walk!
It seems that storks, like my good friend Sue, don’t mind a spot of dereliction. This wouldn’t be my chosen residence, but they do have a good view from up there, out across the River Guadiana to Spain. There’s not a great deal of respect for these poor, forlorn warehouses, often fallen victim to street art, like these below, in Tavira.
Most of my week has been cloudless. Hope you can say the same. In six words please.
Something a bit different this week. We’ve often remarked that we seldom see Portuguese people out walking, as we stride around the countryside. Maybe they don’t regard it as a leisure pastime, or are simply too busy earning a living and looking after their families. It obviously hasn’t gone unnoticed because, a few months ago, we came across an initiative called ‘Todos a caminhar’- walking for everyone! Sponsored by local councils, it aims at promoting better health in the community.
Each Sunday morning, at 10.00, a different venue across the Algarve hosts the walk. A couple of Sundays ago we turned up for the one at Castro Marim, a beautiful village right by the River Guadiana. I had visions of tramping through the salt pans with flamingos wings beating the air all around me, but it was not to be. Coaches had arrived from all across the Algarve and, there in front of the sports pavilion, a sea of people did variations on a ‘warm up’. Unphased, we joined them, and off we all surged, on the road out of the village, but nowhere near the salt pans.
Almost immediately we were in open countryside, in an area unfamiliar to us, and surrounded by chattering groups of Portuguese. Determined older ladies and their gents, who were keen to show they still had what it takes, groups of giggling teens, singles striding away, everyone using up those calories so they could enjoy a really good, late Sunday lunch.
A right turn took us up a hill, in the direction of Vista Real, and so it was, a royal vista. Once we’d gained height, far across the fields I could just make out the outline of the mighty castle at Castro Marim, with the Guadiana beyond. As the hill dipped again there was an option to collect a free orange and a bottle of water, and complete a shorter circuit of 3.5km. Fitter individuals could tackle the longer 10km course. Well, what do you think? In for a penny…
It was a blustery day, with rain threatened, the scudding clouds encouraging us to pick up the pace. The group was well spread by now and we were keen not to be last. There were arrows marking every junction and cheerful helpers riding back and forth, ensuring no-one had come to grief. After another steep climb, with views of the salt pans, there was a second opportunity for water and an orange.
A couple of horses, probably bored with the sparse grazing, took an interest in us motley passersby. The route climbed through the village of Monte Francisco, a few characterful older properties and a sequence of mostly new villas. Locals nodded a polite ‘Bom dia’.
The best views of all were afforded to the Castro Marim Country Golf Club, a swish establishment with as extensive and beautifully laid out golf links as any I’ve seen. However, nothing surpassed my first sighting this year of a cistus in flower.
Smiling down the home strait, the blossom twirling in the breeze, I enjoyed the placid cows and the ruin. Soon we’d come full circle, and finally I sighted my first flamingo. And where there’s one, there’s often another, isn’t there? Not quite as I’d hoped.
It took us about an hour and a half to complete the 10km. We marvelled at the scale of the operation. Not all are as big as this one. There were ambulances on hand, in case anyone over exerted themselves, and everywhere, smiling, happy faces. Best of all, the rain held off, the clouds blew away and afterwards we treated ourselves to delicious tapas on a lovely sunny corner in nearby Vila Real de S. Antonio. Life could surely be worse!
So much variety, here in the Algarve! I hope you enjoy sharing it with me. Come back next week because I have something rather wonderful to share. Meantime, thank you very much for your company, and if you have a walk you’d like to share with me, please feel free. Details, as always, are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Please do visit as many of these walks as you can.
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Mosaics, history and emerging Spring in Israel from Lisa this week :
Meg takes us time traveling through the twists and turns of her beloved Australian landscape :
Let Amanda take you back in time with the amazing Pergamon Museum in Berlin :
Finding Heine and Treasures in Berlin
Still shivering with Irene in the Midwest!
And heavens, Janet almost disappears in the snow!
How about some warming stew with Jackie?
And you can usually rely on sunshine from Lady Lee :
My good Danish friend is giving us an easy option this week. Thanks so much, Drake!
But Cathy doesn’t know the meaning of easy. Go along with her and Mike, and just enjoy yourself!
Prague, Czech Republic : exploring Mala Strana
This one won’t take long. You have to love Tobias’ sense of humour!
Thanks again to you all for spending time with me. I have another busy, but sometimes lazy, Algarve week ahead. Take good care!
….or oldest, but Carnaval, Altura style, is still a whole lot of fun. At this coastal village in the Eastern Algarve, the audience, and especially the children, are every bit as much a part of the show as the cast of characters, both on and off the floats. The enthusiasm is hugely infectious.
I found it equally impossible to resist the boisterous charms of Carnaval at Loule, the big one, but I have shared most of my photos on my Restlessjo Facebook page. I was invited along on a photographic walk with Dave Sheldrake, a successful Algarve photographer and a very nice chap. If you want to see how the professionals do it, have a look on his wife Alyson’s Algarve blog.
Meantime, have a great weekend, and don’t forget your six words for Debbie. I’ll be back with a walk on Monday.
I’m often asked if it’s possible to enjoy the Algarve and its natural beauty without the use of a car. My walk today gives you one example of how to do just that. In much of the Eastern Algarve the railway tracks run quite close to the shoreline. As well as a hands free ride through pleasant countryside and that age old delight of peering into passing gardens, you can hop off the train and pursue a gentle walk. After my brief absence, I’m taking it slowly.
The place I’ve chosen to start is Fuseta, a very laidback town 10km east of Olhão, with an active fishing fleet and a natural harbour. You can easily while away an hour or two here and I’ll give you some thoughts on how later, but first let’s catch that train. There are two railway stations in Fuseta, though I’ve only just discovered tiny Fuseta ‘A’. It’s at the top of a hill, behind the restaurants at the western edge of town. If this doesn’t appeal, Fuseta-Moncarapacho, the main station at the eastern end of town, will serve you just as well for the purposes of this walk.
It’s only a couple of stops from Fuseta to Luz de Tavira, a sleepy little spot if ever there was one. Dismounting from the train you cross directly over the railway tracks. A word of warning- there is no official gated crossing, but it’s a very flat area and you can see far along the track in both directions, so please do look both ways. Safely over, turn right at the first corner and follow a leafy lane, passing a couple of country homes. Prickly pear and almond blossom will vie for your attention in this early stage of the year.
Bear left and soon a glimmer of water will appear on the horizon. You are joining a stretch of the Ecovia Litoral, a cycle track which threads its way along the Algarve coastline, but which in many places makes for relaxed and enjoyable walking.
Often times the boats are marooned on these tidal mud flats, beautiful in their ugliness. If you are lucky the tide might be in. In any case, the sea will glitter in the distance. The ruins of a defence tower, Torre d’Aires, are largely ignored, lost in the pellucid landscape.
Along this shoreline, an elevated bungalow with a lovely tumble of garden calls to me, though my more pragmatic other half reminds me that mosquitos will be a severe nuisance in summer. This is the heart of the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve, and a winter haven for migrating birds.
Just past the midway point to Fuseta you will find a cafe, O Conquistador. Virtuously I did not sample them (I was to have a substantial lunch at the end of my walk) but the cakes did look extremely appealing. Following an arrow the path now crosses through the salt marshes, with Fuseta and a towering mound of salt on the horizon and butter yellow oxalis rippling at your feet.
I am delighted to observe, busily guzzling in the briney water, a large flock of flamingos. Their overhead flight makes a lovely ending to my walk.
And no, I didn’t manage to capture them, unless you wish to see a very blurred tail feather or three. But I can share that I ate at Crispins, almost impossible to miss as you walk back into town. The quayside makes a pleasant after dinner stroll, leading as it does to an expanse of river beach. Grab a bench and gaze out to sea, or watch the locals playing boules behind the green. In warm weather you can ferry across to Armona and an endless expanse of beach. Make sure to carry water with you as you are unlikely to find it at this end of the island.
Feeling like something a tiny bit more strenuous? You can climb up through the narrow streets, for a closer look at Igreja Matriz, the Mother Church. Notice the red lighthouse in the bell tower. Legend has it that many years ago, during a mighty storm, the women of Fuseta lit an enormous bonfire in the churchyard, the highest point of the village, to guide their fishermen husbands home. The men were guided safely back by the distant light and the image of Our Lady of Carmel, on June 16th, an event still celebrated every year.
It has its gritty areas but Fuseta is quite an interesting town. This video gives a fairly realistic view of it.
I hope you enjoyed my walk. I do try to include the details you would need if you found yourself in the area, but I can highly recommend Becky’s blog as a walking resource. Based at Olhão, she covers much the same territory as I do, with the very useful addition of an interactive map.
Sorry that I’m overdue in sharing some of these walks, but I do like to step back from the blog sometimes, especially here in the Algarve. I don’t stop walking but I do just relax into glorious scenery and good companionship. Many thanks to you all for your patience and support.
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Did you know that Drake is a steadfast Liverpool supporter? :
You need plenty of fuel in weather like this, but Jackie never has a problem :
No place like home, for Kathrin :
Monheim am Rhein : A walk through my home town
Lisa gives us a history lesson and some beautiful views (and warm sunshine!) :
While Lady Lee lives the high life!
Miriam shares a charming place and a snippet of Australian history :
Marsha has a tendency to cheat a bit, but look out for those Monarch butterflies :
Plan your Travel Itinerary to include the California Central Coast
Nobody does a garden justice quite so well as Jude. As a bonus, two gems, one old, one new :
Garden Portrait: Scotney Castle
Garden Portrait: Polesden Lacey
Yikes! It was snowing at home when I received this from Elaine :
A wintery walk beside Loch Achray
And Irene’s post looked even colder! Go and say ‘hi’ and warm her up :
If that’s not cold enough for you, Hiking Maine is sharing some stunning ice formations :
An amazing Winter Hike on the Cathance River Trail in Topsham
Finishing here in the Algarve, Becky shares one of her passions :
The Olhanese architectural promenade
I hope to share another walk with you next Monday but I’m not making a full return to blogging just yet. Take care of yourselves, and enjoy your walking, whenever and wherever you can.
I’m interpreting the Weekly Photo Challenge to suit myself this week. On Monday’s chilly walk I suggested that I still have a few warm Algarve images to share, and here they are in Variations on a Theme
Those of you who know me will have spotted that the theme is Tavira. I’m heading there this weekend and this will be my last post for a while.
I couldn’t leave without one more tribute to Paula. She works hard and still manages to bring us Thursday’s Special each week. Two views on the same subject. What do you think? Take care, till next time.
restlessjo 
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