Writing

Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby in Winter

In short supply, the winter sun sets over Whitby harbour

I’ve taken you walking along the Whitby cliff tops in summer time, but winter can be a very different proposition. Yet I was amazed at how many people thronged the narrow cobbled streets, leading to Whitby Abbey, on New Year’s Eve day this year.

It was bitterly cold, but I expected the numerous steps around Whitby would soon warm me up. And on such a day, fish and chips would be almost compulsory. Anyone fancy joining me?

James Cook has a beautiful, if chilly, view

The road across the York Moors had the merest dusting of snow- delicious and crisp, though I don’t know if the sheep would be impressed. I didn’t stop to ask. Stepping out of the car on West Cliff, the air was bitingly brisk. The good news, though, was that parking, often scarce in this town, was free of charge until the end of March.

My destination was St. Mary’s Church, clearly visible on the cliff top across the bay. That meant either steps down, a meandering road downward, or a combination of the two, and then steps up the other side. I paused for breath, and to admire the view, alongside the statue of James Cook, who served his apprenticeship in the town. HMS Endeavour, commanded by Captain Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby, in 1764.

I started down the steps from the Whalebone Arch, symbolic of the town’s whaling past. A ‘halooo’ in the ‘Screaming’ tunnel, allegedly associated with Bram Stoker’s Dracula, just had to be done. Childish, I know! If ghost walks are your idea of fun, it’s possible to tour the town with a guide who will point out all the Dracula connections.

The iconic Whalebone Arch

Looking out from the ‘Screaming’ tunnel

Through the tunnel, the steps continue on down, winding between the backs of houses until you reach the quayside. Easy going from here, as you make for the Swing Bridge.

The Swing Bridge spanning the River Esk

There are plenty of shops and cafes to distract you in the cobbled streets beyond the bridge, but inevitably you will arrive at the foot of 199 steps. The Abbey, and St. Mary’s Church, await on the cliff top above. Take your time. It doesn’t matter if someone overtakes you. There is space, and opportunity, to loiter and enjoy the view of Whitby harbour down below. Fill your pockets with goodies from Justin’s before you start. It might help!

Justin’s can tempt at any time of year

And take your mind off the climb

But soon you’ll be looking down

You may think I’m a sadist dragging you up here, but there is a purpose. Originally the Church Stairs were wooden steps leading to St. Mary’s. The church can be reached by road, by a circuitous route, but more often a coffin would be carried up the steps for burial in the churchyard. There are resting places to make this an easier passage.

Our journey today is not so sad. I’m climbing the steps to see the Christmas trees donated to St. Mary’s by local businesses each December. Schools take part as well, and it is a lovely enterprise. I noticed this year a Prayer tree where you can tie on a shred of ribbon to leave your personal prayer. My Six word Saturday featured many of the tree decorations so here I’ll concentrate more on the church.

There was a lovely atmosphere as people came and went, and the volunteers shared their knowledge of the church, some of which dates from the 12th century. The link will give you much more information. Meantime, I had a rendezvous with the pier in mind. The decision whether to have your fish and chips before or after is up to you. I should tell you that Rick Stein favours The Magpie Cafe, over on Pier Street, but I have a preference for Hadleys, which is just around the corner from here, at 11 Bridge St.

At the bottom of Church Stairs there is a right hand turn into Henrietta St., a row of fishermen’s cottages. If you follow it past the Smoke House, where you might catch the delicious aroma of smoking fish, it will take you down steeply to one arm of the pier. This is the point at which you will need that warm hat!

The steep descent to the pier

Beware people doing a crazy dance (to keep warm?)

And turn your attention to the view

The sun is starting to set so you don’t have long

You can see right into the estuary

Spot a fossil or two

Or look out to Saltwell Nab

But I think it must be time to go

Retrace your steps to the Swing Bridge and you will see a narrow street ahead of you, rising towards the West Cliff. It’s a little steep for the first few yards, but then you can distract yourself by looking in the shop windows as you follow the gentle curve back around to the car park.

NB. You can walk out along the other arm of the pier, which is less strenuous but just as chilly!

I hope you have enjoyed our outing today. I know some of you will have seen parts of this walk before, but I thought that it was a story worth telling. As time goes by I will probably need to revisit a few old haunts, but they look different as the seasons change. I will try to keep them fresh for you.

Over the festive season, people have been too busy to do much walking, but I’m happy to say that I still have some walks to share with you. If you’d like to share a walk in the future, that would be great! My Jo’s Monday walk page gives you the details, or you can just click on the logo.

Extra special thanks to my contributors this week. Let me just pop that kettle on and we’ll start.

It was so peaceful with Jude this week, I was compelled to sit a while. Yes, even me! :

Garden Portrait : Harmony and Balance

Meanwhile, Drake has excelled himself, again! Don’t miss his beautiful mill in Samso :

The Walking Mill

Gilly has a gentle riverside walk for us and you’ll love it!

Strolling the Byes

Anyone chased their grandbaby round a zoo lately? And in the heat of the day, too! Thanks a lot, Rosemay :

Zoo tales from Perth

Hope to see you all out walking again next week. Till then, take care!

Get on the museum trail!

Tea, anyone?

It may be January, but that’s no reason to sit at home. I’ve already seen my first snowdrops of the year but, if you don’t like the cold and the great outdoors, there’s plenty of entertainment to be found in museums. My Monday walk Beside the Tees took me to a local favourite, Preston Park. Best known for its Victorian Street, the museum is also packed full of titbits of history.

It’s quite fascinating to wander through your past. My childhood was unexceptional but I rediscovered, with delight, a hand puppet of Muffin the Mule, and cardboard cutout dolls that kept a younger me engaged for many happy hours. Baby dolls were so ugly in those days, with their nubbly heads and screwed up faces!

The rag rugs were all too familiar from our hearthside, and that modern contraption, a television set, had me chuckling. The wavy lines on the screen just about made identifiable images, yet I remember being glued to a similar wiggly picture(or even the test card!) Of course, you younger people won’t have a clue what I’m talking about.

Victorian cutout doll

Does Muffin look familiar?

Or maybe you had a bike like this?

Or perhaps this record collection?

Many a parent was engaged in the ‘how and the why’ of the exhibits, and I was not the only one to exclaim in joy over a recognition. I featured many of the museum pieces in a previous post, so I won’t dwell too long on the past. What I do want to show you is the exhibition space.

This is devoted to the Cleveland College of Art and Design and I found it fascinating to view the screen sets and the student’s work. This intriguing creature greeted me at the entrance.

What a work of imagination and craftsmanship! Step inside with me.

Isn’t this backdrop lovely?

The detail was beautiful

There was a lady friend for our ‘horse’ too

And then some miniature screen sets

Absorbing in their detail

And a little offbeat

With amazing intricacy

I hope that you like what you’ve seen so far, but now it’s your turn. You must have a local museum or two? I’d love to see inside. After all, I can’t hang about in the open all Winter, now can I?

You might have seen A little something extra? It gave all the details of Cleveland College of Art’s connection to the museum. Some of the work is amazing.

Well, I’m off out into the cold again now. See you soon!

Jo’s Monday walk : Auckland Castle

The Deer House

I’ve visited the Deer House and park at Auckland Castle many times, but seldom have I seen it lit by the sun. I felt especially privileged to have timed my arrival, intending to view the castle, with a glorious, blue-sky, December day.

Known locally as the Bishop’s Palace, Auckland Castle has been a seat of power since the time of the Norman Conquest in the 11th century. The original building was a manor house or hunting lodge constructed in the late 1100s, but 100 years later it was to become the seat of the Prince Bishops. The king had granted the Bishop of Durham enormous power. As the Prince Bishop, it was his job to protect the north east of England from Scottish marauders. In order to do this, he could raise money from taxes, mint his own coins and lead his own army, so long as he remained loyal to the king.

The then Bishop of Durham, Bishop Beck, established himself at Auckland Castle because he preferred the vast hunting grounds, that went with the estate, to Durham Castle. Today the park and grounds are open to the public and still retain elements of the Medieval deer park. Have you ever seen a Deer House? Well then, let’s go!

We start from the Market Place in Bishop Auckland

Bishop Auckland is a small market town in County Durham, 12 miles south-west of the city of Durham. It sits at the confluence of the River Wear and its tributary, the River Gaunless. Entry to the castle grounds is through the 18th century gatehouse, just off the Market Place.

The Robinson Clock Tower and Gatehouse

Pass by the castle gates. We’ll come back later!

The Bishop’s Stroll

The River Gaunless meanders through the estate, and is crossed by several bridges. In 1760 the park’s most charming feature was built. The Gothic Revival style folly was built to provide shelter for the deer and a place for them to be fed. Guests could watch from a viewing area. Today sadly there are no deer, but the folly is a romantic backdrop for strolling and picnics.

The path drops away from the castle walls

And suddenly you can glimpse it through the trees

And suddenly you can catch a glimpse, through the trees

Isn’t it beautiful?

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Within the grounds there is also an Ice House. Ever practical, after they’d been hunting, the Bishops needed to keep their meat chilled. On this occasion I didn’t walk far as I was eager to see inside the castle, but there is a network of paths to enjoy throughout the park.

Trevor’s Bridge

And in profile

The river, from the Deer House

I was particularly keen to see inside the palace. I knew very little about the contents, but the one thing I did know was that some very special religious artwork resided there. The 13 paintings by Spanish master Francisco de Zurbaran have hung in Auckland Castle for 250 years. They were painted between 1640 and 1644 and 12 of them were bought by Bishop Richard Trevor in 1756, for £125. He was outbid at auction for the thirteenth, but commissioned Arthur Pond to produce an exact copy of ‘Benjamin’.

The paintings hang in the Long Dining Room, which was redesigned specifically to house them. They depict chapter 49 of the Book of Genesis, and represent Jacob’s death-bed blessings to his 12 sons. Each son would become a founder of the 12 Tribes of Israel, the beginnings of the Jewish faith. This was a very deliberate act by Bishop Trevor. Religious tolerance, especially towards the Jews, was in short supply in the 18th century. Displaying the paintings publicly was an appeal by him for greater consideration of our fellow men.

In 2001 the Church Commissioners planned to sell off the artworks, whose estimated value was £20 million. A staggering £15 million donation from Yorkshireman and investment banker, Jonathan Ruffer, secured their future, and the Auckland Castle Trust came into being. Exciting plans for the castle are afoot.

Shall we go inside?

Not wishing to tease, but the first place I’m going to take you to is St. Peter’s Chapel. Widely acknowledged as the largest private chapel in Europe, it started life in the 12th century as the Banqueting Hall, with buttery, wine cellar and minstrel gallery. The original chapel was demolished following the English Civil War, but when the Prince Bishops were restored to power, Bishop John Cosin set about the rebuild, in 1660. Isn’t history a roller coaster?

You enter this imposing building

And your eyes are drawn up

To the heraldic shields on the ceiling

And the shadows the light casts on the angels

There are six of them

Stained glass of Benedictine Monks

and Lindisfarne

Beautiful, isn’t it?

From the chapel you enter the castle proper. This has been decorated for Christmas in the old style, with dried fruits and foliage. Mounting the stairs to the first floor, my eye is drawn to the lovely view framed in the elegant window. Throughout the house, the views to the parkland and beyond command attention.

The entrance hall

That beguiling view of parkland

Dried fruit arrangement

Beautifully framed

Something of a surprise next! The Paradise State Bed, used by the Tudors, and an elaborate and unique piece of 15th century oak carving. Click on the link for more details.

The Throne Room follows, and a feature that made me smile. The 200 year old windows (designed by James Wyatt) are of very pale green and pink tinted glass, ‘to make the ladies appear less pale in the bright sunlight’. I’ll just flutter my fan a little!

The view to the lawns

The Bishop’s Throne

Can you see the tint?

The grand fireplace and very special tables

The moment has arrived- the Long Dining Room and Zubaran’s paintings. I cannot pretend to do them justice. You need to see them yourself. The links give more detail.

Four of Zubaran’s masterpieces

While I browsed around the room, one of the guides approached with a tray. Ginger wine with apple juice and warm mince pie (a Medieval recipe) seemed a nice seasonal gesture.

Bishop Trevor’s coat of arms

More Zubaran

And beautiful ceilings!

One last lovely windows shot

And a BIG cake!

The guide explained that the size of the cake related to power and prestige. There was obviously no shortage. I am delighted to have been able to feature Auckland Castle in my Monday walk this week. I was lucky enough to catch the last weekend of the year and it will now be closed to the public until February. The grounds are still open if you fancy an invigorating walk meantime, and, of course, there’s a tearoom.

I realise that this post is a little long, but hope that you have enjoyed it, and can find time to check the links to see how special this place is. I feel sure that it will repay time and investment.

It’s my last chance this year to thank everybody for making Jo’s Monday walk a success. I have had some really wonderful contributions and hope that they will continue next year. Let’s have one last cuppa and a good read :

With all that was happening in Sydney I was so relieved to find Jude fit and well in the Botanic Gardens :

The Royal Botanic Garden Sydney and the Domain, Part 1

While Paula showed me the glory of the Ginkgo tree in Autumn :

Daily walk to Work

Drake always has a sunny disposition, even in the fog!

Foggy, raw- cosiness

Lovely to have Suzanne join us, with a rather unsettling walk. Please do welcome her!

The hawk

Amy’s doing a blogging round up of her walks. There are some real beauties :

A Walk through my Monday Walks

I wasn’t at all familiar with Portsmouth, till Ana took me on a guided walk :

A self-devised and self-guided walk round Portsmouth

Forest walks are always popular and it’s wonderful to have Indah (and her dog Dante) show us a Rotterdam park. Welcome to the walks, Indah!

Winter walk in Kralingse Forest

And where better than NYC for a walk at Christmas time? Thanks, Suze!

New York City- Falling for the High Line

Or for a dash of culture, join Joan, in London :

A walk at The Wallace

Want to see how they celebrate in Canada? Then join Colline!

A festive walk

If you’re not too tired (and full!) I hope you manage to get out for a walk over the Christmas period. I plan to! Till then, have a wonderful Christmas.

A return to Castle Howard

Looking down on the Great Hall

What finer place to start today than where I left off my tour of Castle Howard at Christmas, in the Great Hall? The fire was roaring in the grate, and it needed to be, to heat this vast space. I had completely forgotten the chill outdoors, in the sumptuousness of my surroundings. Looking up at the dome, I could only marvel at the skill and resourcefulness that had repaired the enormous damage done by the 1940 fire.

The story of the fire and the Brideshead connection are the subjects of the exhibition in High Saloon, where my tour takes us next. These rooms were completely destroyed in the fire, including painted frescoes by Pellegrini from 1709. New joists and flooring were installed in the 1970s, but the interiors were still burnt-out shells in 2007. It was maybe a stroke of genius to turn these rooms into a film set for the filming of Evelyn Waugh’s novel Brideshead Revisited. In 1981 and again in 2008, Castle Howard became Brideshead, with a cast of stars.

The casting for the dome fresco

Castle Howard has been used for a number of film productions, the most recent of which was Death comes to Pemberley in 2014. Is it really any wonder?

Just look what I’ve spotted! Haven’t owls always been popular?

Such an opulent dining room

And what a table setting!

A room recently opened for viewing by the public is the New Library, formerly the Canaletto Room, which also was destroyed by the fire. Books have been collected on every conceivable subject relating to the estate, creating a warm and welcoming space.

Everything for the good Victorian child appears to be the theme of the next room. See any old favourites? Ooh, that rocking horse, please!

The Doll’s House is truly life-sized

Can you see inside?

A train set, of course!

A rocking horse or a bear?

Nor have the adults been knowingly neglected.

There’s a Music Room, naturally

And a Crimson Dining Room

With another roaring fire

But the Turquoise Drawing Room is rather a favourite

With a duck and a mince pie

And a wonderful swag of curtain

And how hard is it to pick your favourite tree?

I think we’re not too far from the end. The Long Gallery comes next, 160 feet long, with an Octagon lined with books as its centrepiece. Today a cellist is playing Christmas tunes.

The Long Gallery

With the Octagon at its centre

With fabulous tapestries

The most exquisite furnishings

And the prettiest baubles on the tree

Just a little venture into the Chapel, then I think we can go home. Originally intended to be a dining room (another one!), in the 1870s the floor was lowered, a new entrance created and the now chapel was redecorated in the pre-Raphaelite style. The Howard family were patrons of William Morris, and one of his works was a stained glass window for a nearby Reformatory. This has long since closed and the window is currently on loan to Castle Howard.

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I expect your eyes are tired of looking now. Mine are, just a little, but I’ve so enjoyed putting together my experience of Castle Howard at Christmas. I hope you’ve enjoyed it too. The website is full of details and photographs and I’ve included a few links, in case you’re interested.

Last year I went to Chatsworth House in Derbyshire at Christmas time, and the two stately homes have much in common. Both have hosted film crews for Brideshead and other period dramas. Where Chatsworth enthrals with its grand themes, Castle Howard seduces with a very traditional Christmas. I have to say that I like both. How about you?

Castle Howard at Christmas

From the moment I walked into Castle Howard, I knew that I was in for something very special. Lozenges of light filtered down the Grand Staircase, from the 74-paned skylight overhead. It was almost like walking on hallowed ground. Yet I knew that the Howard family were a very real presence, in this home that brims with history.

On Monday I took you for a walk in the magnificent grounds, and I promised you a little more colour than my grey skies. Do you recognise the Mausoleum in this painting?

The passages and hallways are full of exquisite works of art. Rarely have I seen so much wealth and beauty accumulated under one roof. Furniture and porcelain collections are lavishly distributed throughout the house, and there are guides on hand, more than happy to engage with you and share the tales that surround each piece.

Around all this is woven the magic of a classical Christmas. I will take you through the house in the order that it was revealed, with great pride, to me.

The Grand Staircase

And the first of many sculptures

Remarkable cabinetry

The mahogony cabinet, housing over 300 pieces of china, including Sevres

And the first of many Christmas trees

With the most magnificent of peacocks!

The Howards have lived almost continuously in this house ever since it was built by Charles Howard, 3rd Earl of Carlisle, at the beginning of the 18th century. The current residents are the Hon. Simon Howard and his wife Rebecca, with their twins.

The Antique Passage leads to the first of the bedrooms

Lady Georgiana’s bedroom, with many family portraits

And another pretty tree!

You couldn’t accuse the house of being understated. It’s very much a case of ‘if you’ve got it, flaunt it’, but with beautiful elegance.

How about this for a mirrored fireplace?

Or this beautifully marbled one?

Adornments are everywhere

Whimsically pretty

And full of smiles

Or ferociously savage!

Impressive it may be, but all this is but a prelude to the main feature. The Great Hall is likely to provoke at least an intake of breath! Astonishing to think that the lovely dome which crowns it crashed to the floor during the great fire of 1940. The details of the ongoing restoration are contained in the ‘Brideshead Restored’ exhibition in High South.

The 70ft high restored dome in the Great Hall

The High South stairs offer dramatic glimpses of the Great Hall through the arches.

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I am only halfway through my tour of this magnificent house and, as I don’t want eyes to glaze over, I propose to stop here. I hope you’ll return with me. There is still much opulence to be enjoyed, including the Chapel, with stained glass by William Morris.

If you’d like to see Castle Howard in all its Christmas finery, you have until 21st December. Just time, isn’t there? Full details are on the website.

Jo’s Monday walk : Nottingham Castle

Just what you'd expect from the entrance to a castle

Just what you’d expect from the entrance to an ancient castle

We’re not going to do too much walking in Nottingham this week. Up to the castle to check out the view, of course, but after that I might treat you to a half in ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem’. It’s an interesting old place!

I know Nottingham quite well, because it’s my daughter’s home, but it’s years since I’ve been to the castle. As in many parts of the country this year, there was a war-related exhibition- ‘Trent to Trenches’. But first, we must climb up to the castle. It’s not too steep and we can go slowly through the gardens, or even sit on a bench for a while.

Naturally, Robin’s hanging out there!

Semprevirens form a display in the border

With a thrust or two of Cordeline

There’s a lovely summer house, with a bench or two for lingering

And I even spied an owl on guard duty!

Once you reach Castle Rock, there’s a large viewing terrace with patio tables and chairs. Another invitation to linger, with perhaps a pot of coffee and croissants.

The day I was there, we were constantly accosted by a swarm of ladybirds! I have never seen the like. Red and yellow ones, both, were on the tables and thronging the doorway to the museum. I didn’t manage a photo because I was too busy rescuing them and guiding them on a better flight path. I can only surmise the warm weather had brought them out to play.

The view from Castle Rock

The views are expansive

Overlooking ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem’ below.

Time for a little history. Nottingham Castle sits on a natural promontory, known as Castle Rock, with cliffs up to 40 metres high. Back in the Middle Ages it was a major fortress and royal residence. As all good castles are, it was strategically located, near to a crossing of the River Trent. Close to the royal hunting grounds at Tideswell and Sherwood, it once even had its own deer park. Whilst Richard the Lionheart was away on his Third Crusade, it is thought that the castle was left derelict ,and was occupied by the Sheriff of Nottingham. In the legends of Robin Hood, the castle often features in showdowns between the Sheriff and this popular outlaw.

Sadly the castle went into decline, and was largely demolished in 1649. A mansion was built on the site, but this was burnt out by rioters in 1831. The story of this and much of the castle’s intriguing history is told in the Castle Museum, opened in 1878- the first municipal art gallery in the UK outside of London. Just before we step inside, let’s admire the elegant pebble mosaics set into the courtyard.

I don’t intend to linger too long in the museum. We each have our own pace and interests. Let me just give you a small sample of what you might find inside.

Beautiful and original wrought iron gates

From around the county

Exquisite glassware

And extraordinary chess pieces

Regimental silverware

War memorabilia

And uniforms

Several galleries were given over to the exhibition, documenting life in Nottinghamshire during the wars. Even in black and white I found many of the images harrowing, and moved swiftly downstairs to learn of the castle’s history. I won’t spoil it for you by giving away too many details but it is an atmospheric space, and a story well told.

You must be about ready for that half I promised you? We’ll wander down the hill, past the place that was once a thriving Lace Market. ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem‘, dating back to 1189, must be one of the most unusual pubs I’ve ever been in. It is set into the cliff face and is famous for its caves. The rooms are unusual shapes, some with holes in the ceiling. There was once a brewery in the lower caverns and there’s a route from there up into Nottingham Castle. You can actually book a tour of the cellars, which are part of Nottingham’s extensive cave network. Affectionately known as ‘The Trip’, the name derives from a ‘trip’, meaning a stop or resting place on a journey.

The former Lace Market

The cliff face

‘The Trip’

Looking up!

One of the smallest rooms

What a strange ceiling!!

But look! A friendly face. Cheers, Lisa!

As always, I have included links for those who would like more information, or might be near enough to visit. I hope you enjoyed meandering around Nottingham Castle with me. Not too strenuous, was it?

I’m ready to put the kettle on now and enjoy the great contributions I’ve received to Jo’s Monday walk this week. If you have a walk you’d like to share, do please join in. For details, just click on the link or on my logo. Many thanks to all my walkers this week.

Firstly, Noe takes us back to South Sulawesi. The scenery is quite amazing! :

West coast of Gusung Island 2

And for something completely different, how about Glasgow Necropolis, with Violet Sky :

City of the Dead

Amy has saved us some delicious remnants of Autumn foliage :

Lost Maples

While Drake is busy, just being himself, in Liverpool :

Walking Sculptures

And, all the way from Australia, we have Jude joining us again. A bit special! :

A walk in the Blue Mountains

That’s it till next Monday. Have a great week and happy walking to you all!

Six word Saturday

“Reasons to be joyful- one…two…”

My lovely friend Sherri gave me my six words this week. I was still busy thinking along the ‘Joy is‘ lines when she left me this comment- ‘I now have Ian Drury’s famous words ringing through my mind ‘Reasons to be cheerful, one, two, three…’ ‘ Sherri always manages to make you feel good, even when she’s not feeling great herself. And I love the song!

The joy continued as I walked down the road. When did I last see so much colour, still in the trees at the end of November? It really is beautiful. How can it fail to lift the spirits?

Sunshine after the rain

Beautiful, isn’t it?

Even the ones lying in puddles are pretty!

And then you have lovely mopheads of hydrangea

During the week, I provided huge novelty value for a gentleman walking his dog in our local cemetery. I wasn’t visiting a grave, but passing through on my way into town. This old cemetery has a huge swathe of trees and I deemed it a fine opportunity to test out the camera function on my new smartphone. My face must have been a picture as I repeatedly produced ‘selfies’ of me scowling into the phone, totally incapable of switching to landscape mode, or whatever it’s called!

Eventually I ‘cracked it’, but the dog was not amused. He and his master had by then completed several circuits of the cemetery, each time the dog having a little snarl at my heels. I must have looked like a grave robber! I smiled apologetically at his owner, waving the ‘camera’. He then ventured near enough to point out a nice wood sculpture, just in case I’d missed it. When I’ve sorted out processing, I might be able to share some of the photos with you, but that’s definitely for another week! Meantime, let’s enjoy a Festival of leaves. It’s the last week for entries.

A few more damp leaves

Some clinging on!

Some not!

Who knows for how much longer?

But the beech hedges are lovely, aren’t they?

More joy when I bumped into a friend that I haven’t seen for the longest time. Following radical back surgery, he was looking great! One last little treat- I bought myself a bunch of tiny rosebuds for just £2. They’re beaming away at me from the hearth- red, lemon and peach. So- let’s have it! What brings you joy?

In all of this, I have to spare a thought for our American friends, fighting freezing temperatures and snow. In parts of Australia they have the opposite problem, sweltering heat! All in all, it’s not looking too bad to be here in England right now. If you can find time, don’t forget to say hello to Cate at Show My Face. Without her, what would I do with my Six word Saturday?

Jo’s Monday walk : a Durham footpath

Interesting reflections

Often I walk with company, and that’s very nice, but occasionally I get to do a bit of wandering on my own- just me and the camera. Nobody tapping their toes impatiently while I explore all the angles- ‘what IS she looking at?’ You might know the feeling. My husband travels quite a lot locally, visiting customers, and sometimes I go along ‘for the ride’. Durham is a favourite place.

The River Wear twines itself through the city, towing me along behind it. My sense of direction is abysmal but, with a river to hold on to, I stand a fighting chance. A bright Autumnal day was just the excuse I needed for an unfettered wander. I’ll let you look over my shoulder, shall I?

The river bank is a little overgrown in places

I’m starting off at Shincliffe Bridge, by “The Rose Tree” pub, on the A177 road, on the outskirts of Durham. There’s a path either side of the bridge and I linger for a while, contemplating which direction to take. I cross over the bridge and am lured by a footpath that I don’t know. It follows the river so there’s a good chance I’ll end up in the centre of Durham.

I don’t get very far when I spot some wildflowers by the path. The sun is strong for October so I spend some time trying to get a shot that I like. I catch curious looks from the occasional jogger. Two ladies, strolling, confirm that I can cross over a bridge further along. Subsidence and falling trees has closed some of the footpath off, but I already knew this.

Sycamore wings

This will have to do!

Or maybe this shot?

It has some paler friends too

A broken tree captures my sympathy

And those flowers again, in white

A peaceful stretch of river

And a ‘pop’ of yellow

After a while I come to the bridge which I must cross over. Now I’m on more familiar territory. There’s a large modern sports facility here, used sometimes for football training by Hartlepool FC. (ssh, sensitive subject- no comments please!)

Approaching the bridge

The treads are made of logs

Looking back across the river

Safely over the bridge, the path follows the river on the other bank, through dappled leafy shade. Frequent splashes of oars can be heard as the local rowing teams spin and twirl in the water, to the harsh calls of the cox. The odd, solitary oarsman glides past too.

This strange creature is ‘working out’ by the river

Dappled shade

Heave! Heave!

Solitary struggles

I cross over a path which leads to the boat club (members only), and shortcut across a field strewn with the remnants of Autumn. The wider expanse of river beckons.

Lingering Autumn

The river widens at this point, heading towards Durham centre

The bandstand

I take a seat in the bandstand. I have been carrying with me, since my visit to Nottingham, a postcard destined for Viveka in Sweden. I exchanged addresses with this lovely lady some time ago, and now I receive ‘surprises’ in the post. (one of which was a Paris t-shirt in black and gold! I don’t know anyone more generous than Viveka) I have always loved postcards and having one land on my doormat gladdens my heart. Now it’s my turn to reciprocate. There’s a post office in town and what nicer place to sit and write?

On towards the centre and another bridge

Along the riverbank to yet another bridge!

Durham Castle, beautifully framed

The path follows the river to the bridge with the green railings, shown above. (Baths Bridge) I cross over, approaching the boat hire beneath Elvet Bridge. This is a popular spot and, in Summer, paintings of the castle and many other Durham views adorn the nearby walls. You might want to pause here for something to eat, or a row on the river. There are plenty of places to eat in Durham, catering to all tastes and wallets.

I pause to admire all the boat names

Especially Shirley!

I’m going to continue into the centre, to post my card. Before I go, I’d better give you instructions on how to get back to the start point, hadn’t I?

Climb the steps up onto Elvet Bridge and cross over it. Turn right onto New Elvet, passing the Royal County Hotel, and continue uphill to Hallgarth St. Following Hallgarth will bring you to a roundabout with a junction signed A177. About 15 minute’s walk in this direction will bring you back to Shincliffe Bridge, where I began. I hope you enjoyed our wander.

Next Monday I will be in the Algarve, but I intend to schedule a walk, just so you don’t forget me. I can’t guarantee that I will be able to respond to your comments, as this will necessitate a visit to an internet cafe. Not something I often do, but Anazu does have a connection. Please just link to my post as usual, if you have a walk to share. My Jo’s Monday walk page will give you the details, and I will respond to you as soon as I possibly can. Meantime, let’s put that kettle on and settle in for some more great reads.

I don’t receive many walks from South Sulawesi! Many thanks for this treat, and welcome Noe :

Walking around Tinabo Island

Jerusalem and Cardinal seem to go together. This is very beautiful night photography :

Jerusalem

Combine good company with superb night time shots in Bologna, with Paula :

Music and lights of Bologna

There are lots of things that Drake knows. How to entertain has always been one of them :

Knowing its Autumn

Fall in Canada! Wouldn’t you love to share it with Colline? :

Familiar Streets

Climbing hills and hopping over stiles in Dorset. Can this really be Jude? :

Pilsdon Pen

More beautiful Autumn colour and a little shared knowledge, from Violet Sky :

A tree walk

Close up and personal with Milkweed Bugs? I don’t like bugs much, but I do love Amy’s company

Milkweed Bug walk

And finally, stop off at the market on the way to the beach with Pauline. You may need a sunhat!

A walk along beautiful Burleigh Beach

I hope you enjoy these walks as much as I did. Many thanks to all my lovely contributors. Happy walking! See you soon.

Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey seemed to me to be quite at home shrouded in mist. I’d chosen the riverside walk from Richmond, in Yorkshire, for its Autumn colour and had almost forgotten the sad story of the Drummer Boy. Legend has it that, towards the end of the 18th century, a tunnel was discovered beneath the keep of Richmond Castle. The entrance to the tunnel was very narrow, so a small regimental drummer boy was chosen, to squeeze through and investigate.

He was lowered into the tunnel and instructed to beat his drum loudly as he walked. The soldiers above could follow his progress from the drumbeat. He led them away from the castle and down to the River Swale, in the direction of Easby Abbey. Half a mile from the Abbey, the drumbeat ceased. The little drummer was never seen or heard from again!

The Drummer Boy stone

I think I can probably guarantee to guide us on this walk without disappearing. Are you game?

From Richmond Market Place, turn north on Frenchgate, and then right, along Station Rd. Just as you reach the bridge, with The Station on the far shore, you will find a turn off, pointing to Easby Abbey. The path climbs up from the riverside and will lead you to a junction, where the Drummer Boy stone is placed.

A popular landmark on Frenchgate

An Autumnal dew bathes the roses

Looking back towards the castle and St. Mary’s Church

Leaves strew the footpath

The river chortles along below, tantalising with glimpses through the trees. Soon you come to a field and across this you have St. Agatha’s House (a private residence) on your left and to your right, Easby Abbey. The Abbey of St. Agatha, as it is more correctly known, dates from 1152 but has stood abandoned since the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the late 1530s. The former inhabitants were canons rather than monks, members of the Premonstratensian (or Norbertine) order. The White Canons, known for the colour of their habit, were Roman Catholics.

It's a lonely spot but St. Agatha's Church is gentle company

It’s a lonely spot, but St. Agatha’s Church is good company

The Abbey from the church grounds

The site is maintained by English Heritage and is free of charge. I was a little surprised to find the church open and even more surprised at what I found inside.

Beneath the beamed ceiling, light flooded the walls

With traditional stained glass windows

But the painted arches were unexpected

And the coloured frescoes took me completely by surprise

Lit by the windows

With beautiful alcoves

And intimate detail

The church is known to pre-date the Abbey and the Medieval wall paintings date from 1250. It felt well-loved. In the grounds a small army of men were beavering away, removing overgrown trees. Retracing my steps through the church gate, I turned my attention to the Abbey.

The gatehouse, just across the lane from the church

The sturdy lines of the Abbey

Cloister detail

The window of the Refectory

Time to resume our walk. Turn right at the Abbey gate and follow the lane down. A gravel path beside the River Swale heads east and after about 300 yards comes to an old iron bridge. Cross over and take the former railway track, signed ‘Richmond, half a mile’.

Hips or haws?

The River Swale chatters along below

Once back at The Station, you can easily retrace your steps, but it seems a shame to me to leave the river when it’s about to reveal its might. How about we pop into The Station for a snack and a look at some art work before we continue?

The ham hock soup was delicious

And I always like a browse at the art

There’s always something that appeals

I’ve written about The Station before. In fact, I was there on my birthday, 2 years ago. Seems I have a weakness for this part of the world in the Autumn. Since I was last there a bakery has opened and the accompanying smells were delicious! Come on- just ten minutes more. I promise you, it’s worthwhile.

Cross over the bridge and turn left through a gate. The path follows the river quite closely or you can get nearer by walking on the grass. The tree roots are exposed in places so watch your step if you leave the path.

Here’s the bridge

See what I mean about the roots?

Don’t get too close to the river!

Autumn’s carpet is beautiful, isn’t it?

Just about ready to fall

Can you hear a rumbling sound? You might have caught sight of them through the trees. The river is very low this year after a dry Summer.

My first sighting always makes me smile!

Just a little closer

The power of the water is awesome

As always, I find myself entranced

I hope you will agree it was worth another 10 minutes walking? The hard part lies ahead because the road winds quite steeply back up to the Market Place, passing by the Castle. The circular walk from the Market Place to Easby Abbey and back is just 3 miles. Free parking is available at The Station, if you get there early enough. (and it saves you a climb)

Legend also links the Drummer Boy to Lewis Carroll, who grew up in Richmond. Allegedly ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ began life as ‘Alice’s Adventures Underground’. I rather like the idea that he took inspiration from this story.

And now it’s time to put the kettle on and join my fellow walkers this week. Click on the logo if you’d like to join in. You’d be more than welcome and there are always beautiful walks to share. Many thanks to everybody for their kind contributions. Here we go!

Drake always has the power to fire my imagination :

Emptiness with content

Of all the world’s beautiful cathedrals, I didn’t know this one, so thank you, Cardinal :

Berlin Cathedral

And for probably the best deer shot you’ve seen this year! Amy- you’re a treasure! :

O.P. Schnabel Park

We’re honoured this week to share a post from Lucy, in a very special place on the Northumbrian coast :

Marooned on Lindisfarne Island

If it’s scenery you’re after, it’s hard to beat County Tipperary. Many thanks to Joan for sharing :

Up in the hills

For the longest time I’ve been following Bespoke Traveller. Read this post and you’ll see why :

The long way down in Grand Canyon

If waterfalls and sky walks are your thing, follow Pauline to New South Wales :

A journey into the dawn of time

If you prefer shopping, Meg has her shopping baskets at the ready :

A Williamsburg walk

That’s it for another week. I hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Happy walking!

Giverny- not a walk, more of a linger!

What could be more lovely than a pond full of water lilies?

It was a very special day, for three reasons:

1. I got to ride upstairs on a ‘double decker’ train (twice!)

2. It was our Silver Wedding anniversary

3. We visited Monet’s fabulous Giverny!

Just a couple of weeks before we had watched Monty Don browsing the borders in splendid isolation (except for the camera crew). We joked that we might not find quite so much space on the iconic bridge, and so it proved. But I couldn’t honestly say that it detracted one bit from the occasion for us. It was, quite simply, fabulous!

Here’s just one example!

Based in central Paris, I had pre-booked train tickets from Gare St. Lazare to Vernon, the nearest railway station to Giverny. Apart from a few moments of anxiety when the ticket machine wouldn’t cooperate, all went smoothly. Soon I was safely ensconced upstairs on my SNCF super smart train, strong coffee and pain au chocolat et noisettes stickily in hand.

The train glided out of the station and I spent the first few minutes replying to all the messages of goodwill and trying not to get my phone sticky. 51 minutes later I was disembarking at Vernon and boarding a ‘navette’ or shuttle coach for the 15 minute ride to Giverny.

Bathed in gentle sunshine, I was pleased to discover that the queue outside Monet’s house was quite short (miniscule by Versailles standards!) I listened to different accents from around the world as I edged forward, with rising excitement. I almost had to pinch myself! Just a murmur of doubt- would it live up to expectations?- before I was at the ticket office.

You probably know how it looks from TV and books?

Little ‘pops’ of colour

And subtle beauties

As well as flamboyant creatures like this

Delicates like these

Classic beauties

And bronze-leafed flirts

Everywhere I looked, I fell in love! Wouldn’t you?

Just a world full of loveliness!

Then we meandered by the stream

And found another kind of beauty!

I had been enchanted by these two little girls since I saw them skipping across the road from the railway station, in pink wellies on a sunny day. I had tried to take a photo of them sitting, heads together, on a bench, but when I asked if I might, they took flight. Mother’s warning not to talk to strange ladies! So how could I resist when I found them with Mum, on Monet’s bridge?

You know what’s coming next, don’t you?

The water lilies, of course!

Captured from every conceivable angle

Beside a boat

And through a variety of pretty flowers

Like these

And as close as I could get

Without falling in!

Then, a threat of rain. We headed back towards the house, still marveling at the beautiful borders.

Full of plants such as these

And this burgeoning beauty

Of course, everyone had the same idea. While the gardens had been easy to admire, with a little patience and good timing, the house was the only shelter from the sudden downpour. Despite this, I was delighted with it and the light-heartedness of the gaily coloured rooms. Pretty pastel walls were adorned with the oriental pieces that Monet had loved. I snapped with enthusiasm until I was advised that photography within the house was not allowed. I don’t suppose I should but I’m going to share just one image. It might encourage you to make the journey, mightn’t it?

Don’t tell anyone, will you?

And after the rain? Glorious sunshine, causing the plants to lift their heads and smile.

A rain-kissed blossom

Among a sea of beauty

Such as this!

I hope you’ve enjoyed sharing our special day. Whenever anyone mentions Giverny from now on I will be able to return to this little bubble in time.

There’s still a little more to come but nothing can top Giverny for me. I’ll let you decide for yourself. Many thanks for reading and for your continuing support. My world would be a much emptier place without you.

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

Writing

Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby in Winter

Get on the museum trail!

Jo’s Monday walk : Auckland Castle

A return to Castle Howard

Castle Howard at Christmas

Jo’s Monday walk : Nottingham Castle

Six word Saturday

“Reasons to be joyful- one…two…”

Jo’s Monday walk : a Durham footpath

Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Giverny- not a walk, more of a linger!

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“Reasons to be joyful- one…two…”

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