In short supply, the winter sun sets over Whitby harbour
I’ve taken you walking along the Whitby cliff tops in summer time, but winter can be a very different proposition. Yet I was amazed at how many people thronged the narrow cobbled streets, leading to Whitby Abbey, on New Year’s Eve day this year.
It was bitterly cold, but I expected the numerous steps around Whitby would soon warm me up. And on such a day, fish and chips would be almost compulsory. Anyone fancy joining me?
James Cook has a beautiful, if chilly, view
The road across the York Moors had the merest dusting of snow- delicious and crisp, though I don’t know if the sheep would be impressed. I didn’t stop to ask. Stepping out of the car on West Cliff, the air was bitingly brisk. The good news, though, was that parking, often scarce in this town, was free of charge until the end of March.
My destination was St. Mary’s Church, clearly visible on the cliff top across the bay. That meant either steps down, a meandering road downward, or a combination of the two, and then steps up the other side. I paused for breath, and to admire the view, alongside the statue of James Cook, who served his apprenticeship in the town. HMS Endeavour, commanded by Captain Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby, in 1764.
I started down the steps from the Whalebone Arch, symbolic of the town’s whaling past. A ‘halooo’ in the ‘Screaming’ tunnel, allegedly associated with Bram Stoker’s Dracula, just had to be done. Childish, I know! If ghost walks are your idea of fun, it’s possible to tour the town with a guide who will point out all the Dracula connections.
The iconic Whalebone Arch
Looking out from the ‘Screaming’ tunnel
Through the tunnel, the steps continue on down, winding between the backs of houses until you reach the quayside. Easy going from here, as you make for the Swing Bridge.
The Swing Bridge spanning the River Esk
There are plenty of shops and cafes to distract you in the cobbled streets beyond the bridge, but inevitably you will arrive at the foot of 199 steps. The Abbey, and St. Mary’s Church, await on the cliff top above. Take your time. It doesn’t matter if someone overtakes you. There is space, and opportunity, to loiter and enjoy the view of Whitby harbour down below. Fill your pockets with goodies from Justin’s before you start. It might help!
Justin’s can tempt at any time of year
And take your mind off the climb
But soon you’ll be looking down
You may think I’m a sadist dragging you up here, but there is a purpose. Originally the Church Stairs were wooden steps leading to St. Mary’s. The church can be reached by road, by a circuitous route, but more often a coffin would be carried up the steps for burial in the churchyard. There are resting places to make this an easier passage.
Our journey today is not so sad. I’m climbing the steps to see the Christmas trees donated to St. Mary’s by local businesses each December. Schools take part as well, and it is a lovely enterprise. I noticed this year a Prayer tree where you can tie on a shred of ribbon to leave your personal prayer. My Six word Saturday featured many of the tree decorations so here I’ll concentrate more on the church.
There was a lovely atmosphere as people came and went, and the volunteers shared their knowledge of the church, some of which dates from the 12th century. The link will give you much more information. Meantime, I had a rendezvous with the pier in mind. The decision whether to have your fish and chips before or after is up to you. I should tell you that Rick Stein favours The Magpie Cafe, over on Pier Street, but I have a preference for Hadleys, which is just around the corner from here, at 11 Bridge St.
At the bottom of Church Stairs there is a right hand turn into Henrietta St., a row of fishermen’s cottages. If you follow it past the Smoke House, where you might catch the delicious aroma of smoking fish, it will take you down steeply to one arm of the pier. This is the point at which you will need that warm hat!
The steep descent to the pier
Beware people doing a crazy dance (to keep warm?)
And turn your attention to the view
The sun is starting to set so you don’t have long
You can see right into the estuary
Spot a fossil or two
Or look out to Saltwell Nab
But I think it must be time to go
Retrace your steps to the Swing Bridge and you will see a narrow street ahead of you, rising towards the West Cliff. It’s a little steep for the first few yards, but then you can distract yourself by looking in the shop windows as you follow the gentle curve back around to the car park.
NB. You can walk out along the other arm of the pier, which is less strenuous but just as chilly!
I hope you have enjoyed our outing today. I know some of you will have seen parts of this walk before, but I thought that it was a story worth telling. As time goes by I will probably need to revisit a few old haunts, but they look different as the seasons change. I will try to keep them fresh for you.
Over the festive season, people have been too busy to do much walking, but I’m happy to say that I still have some walks to share with you. If you’d like to share a walk in the future, that would be great! My Jo’s Monday walk page gives you the details, or you can just click on the logo.
Extra special thanks to my contributors this week. Let me just pop that kettle on and we’ll start.
It was so peaceful with Jude this week, I was compelled to sit a while. Yes, even me! :
Garden Portrait : Harmony and Balance
Meanwhile, Drake has excelled himself, again! Don’t miss his beautiful mill in Samso :
The Walking Mill
Gilly has a gentle riverside walk for us and you’ll love it!
Strolling the Byes
Anyone chased their grandbaby round a zoo lately? And in the heat of the day, too! Thanks a lot, Rosemay :
Zoo tales from Perth
Hope to see you all out walking again next week. Till then, take care!
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