Travel

Piotrków Trybunalski

I’d like to spend just a little more time with my Zawady family, before returning you to the big city sights of Kraków.

We sat out, on my last night, under the stars and beside a roaring bonfire. Myself and Jadzia, with husband Andrzej and sister, Ewa. I was quiet, letting the conversation flow around me, while Jadzia and Andrzej took turns to stoke the fire, the kiełbasa bursting and sizzling on the grill. My head was still full of the day’s excitement, with Meg in Łódź.

Broad smiles and hugs had greeted me when I pronounced the day ‘fantastyczny’ on my return. Ewa was quick to produce a bottle of something soothing to rub on my black eye, which was rapidly developing after the previous night’s misadventure. How is it possible to walk into a lighted porch lamp? I’ve no idea, but I knew that an early start was intended next day.

If you look closely you’ll see Andrzej, sitting on the hammock. For the past 50 years he has wanted a motor bike. Finally, as he approaches retirement, Jadzia is considering letting him buy one. And so we went to the Saturday morning market at Piotrków Trybunalski. The last place it would have occurred to me to go looking for a bike, but sure enough, bikes there were. And just about every other conceivable thing too. We stowed our purchases (but not a bike- they were all too old!) in the car, and drove into the town centre.

Seldom have I seen a sleepier Saturday morning than at Piotrków Trybunalski, yet the grandeur of the main square hints at its illustrious past. Medieval Piotrków was an important trading centre, and much later became the seat of the Sejm, the Polish Parliament. In between times it was home to the Polish prince’s tribunals or law courts, including the Royal Tribunal, the highest court in Poland. I knew little of this, as I strolled through the peaceful square.

Under Austrian occupation in World War 1, Piotrków became a centre for Polish patriotic activity and a headquarters of the voluntary troops, the Polish Legions. The town had a large Jewish population, and in October 1939 became the site of the first Jewish Ghetto of World War 11. Fierce fighting took place but the town was subsequently occupied by the Germans for 6 years. The Great Synagogue, listed as one of Poland’s most notable architectural buildings, was destroyed by the Nazis, but renovated after the war.

As we wandered, Jadzia pointed out the school she used to go to, catching the early bus from Zawady each morning. She was proud of the connection with Copernicus, and I was happy to be there with her.

It was time to return to Zawady, but first a very swish motor bike shop, and a stop to collect cake. Just one last coffee before we set off to meet Dad, for the journey south. And then the hugs, goodbye.

Paula has a new approach to Thursday’s Special this week. I think I might just squeeze this under the heading of Transience, don’t you? Family meetings and former glory.

Jo’s Monday walk : Bełchatów

I may have misled some of you, but I’m staying in Central Poland for this week’s walk. I expanded on a little of the family saga last week in Zawady, the village where Dad was born. Today we’re taking a stroll around Bełchatów, the county town, some 7kms and a bus ride away.

B is for Bełchatów covers much of the town’s history, so we can simply concentrate on how the place looks today. (Bew-ha-toof is very roughly how it’s pronounced) The Tourist Information office is small but friendly, and perfectly placed for our start, on Ul. T. Kościuszki. Ignoring the map in my hand, I’m drawn to a passage beside the TI, with a glimpse of green space beyond. I follow it and find myself in rather a nice park.

I cross the bridge over the lake and notice a canal leading off through the park. The imposing building in my opening shot proves to be Muzeum Regionalne, a late Baroque listed manor. I wonder about its contents, but my curiosity about the water is greater. I follow it, out beyond the park. On the map it’s shown as Rakówka, and Olszewski Park.

I wander a little way to see where it leads but, when it seems I’m getting too far from the centre, I double back through the houses. A street corner church thankfully looks familiar, and I’m back at the junction of 9 Maja and Kościuszki.

I look at the signs on shops for clues as to what I might buy there, hoping to purchase a few small gifts for the family. My niece Ania and husband Hubert are shopping at the new shopping gallery and Tesco’s, but this has little appeal for me. I prefer the more traditional shops, but they can be a little mystifying. I’ve come full circle now and am back at the museum.

Opposite the TI stands Kościół Narodzenia, the church where Ania and Hubert were married. I remember it as being very beautiful inside.

Beside the church, a new addition, Park Narutowicza, provides entertainment with it’s ever changing fountains. And a little street art, too.

From being a beautiful balmy day, the sky has begun to darken, exactly as the forecast had indicated. I look for shelter, just in case, and am drawn to a sign, ‘Giganty Mocy’. Not at all sure what I’ll find, in I go. The gallery space is a revelation.

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The rain is spotting when I come out again. A nearby florist provides the first of my presents, and I pause to read the synagogue sign. I backtrack a little way to a small indoor shopping centre, where chocolates and brandy are easily purchased.

The sky gets blacker and the rain starts to bounce. People scurry for cover. Nothing for it but to seek shelter until Ania and Hubert have finished their shopping expedition. ‘Degustacja’ meets my requirements perfectly. There’s cake, of course!

Bełchatów has become a big town, with numerous housing estates, largely due to the proximity of the power station. My walk today centres on the older part of town, and nearby there’s also a huge outdoor market. I think it’s fairly typical of many Polish towns.

This website will give you a few facts about the area, including my recently featured Zbiornik Wawrzkowniza. I have one more small town to show you before heading south to Kraków. I hope you’ve enjoyed the series and can come along with me. Meantime, coffee, I think. Don’t you?

Many thanks to all my contributors this week, and to my readers too. As always, there are some great walks featured below. If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo.

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I remember Peebles covered in snow and freezing! Lovely to see it through Smidge’s eyes :

The Tweed Valley and Neidpath Castle, Peebles

Jackie goes into a little history of an art form :

Tattooed

Roll up! Roll up! Get your tickets here!

T is for Theatreland#atozchallenge

Becky reminds me just how beautiful the Algarve can be in Springtime :

A quick stroll near Olhao da Restauracao

While Jude is having such a fine time in Cornwall! Almost makes you want to move :

Walking around Trencrom

I am in awe of this lady! Tish, doing ‘qi gong’, surrounded by dappled lushness. Wouldn’t you want to be there?

The power of green and dappled sunlight this morning on the Linden Walk

From nature to architecture, with Jaspa :

The remarkable houses of Bello and Reborati, Montevideo, Uruguay

Do be careful Drake’s green-eyed monster doesn’t get you!

Airborne walk

And please help Esther up the hill, should you see her struggling :

Misty Morning Walk

Pauline gives us lots of reasons to visit Brisbane, and even goes interactive!

Final few hours in Brisbane

I knew about Dumbo in NYC, but I had no idea about this wonderful walk :

Brooklyn Bridge Park

I’m rounding off with a blog that’s new to me, but a place I’ve long wanted to visit. Great photos, too :

Wye Valley: Symonds Yat Circular

That’s it for another week. The weather here has turned dreary, but that’s Bank Holidays for you. I have much catching up to do. See you soon, and happy walking!

Six word Saturday

Good time on a grey day

The sun doesn’t have to shine to make me happy. Being with people I love in a beautiful place does the trick too. Thursday had me slip-sliding about at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park (in the wrong shoes, again!) But it was worth it when I found the rhododendrons in full flower in the woods.

I will be taking you there on one of my Monday walks, but I just had to share this beauty. I half wondered if it would qualify as a wildflower for Jude’s Garden Challenge. Then I decided it didn’t really matter. She’ll love it anyway.

Happy Bank Holiday weekend to all you Brits! Hope you find some sunshine somewhere. Cate is having problems at Six Word Saturday.

Zbiornik Wawrzkowizna

Life is pretty busy for my Polish family, so when I was bundled into the car for a swift outing, between shifts of work, I didn’t know quite what to expect. Staying in rural Zawady, I seldom did. Language so often seemed to get the better of me.

With interest I gazed out of the window as we passed through our local town, Bełchatów, and soon after that turned down a path signed Zbiornik Wawrzkowizna. I know! Not the easiest place name you ever saw. Dad insists that Polish is simple. You just spell out each letter, slowly. Mystified, I followed, as we left the car in woodland parking. A complex of buildings sat off to one side, and a gate led to a small animal farm and stables.

My cousin, Jadwiga, smilingly explained that she sometimes comes here to ride, and pointed out her favourite horse. It was dimly lit in the stables, so I can’t show him to you. Soon though we were out in bright sunlight, beside a swiftly flowing canal and heading towards a vast expanse of water.

Nestled in amongst the trees were a series of tall, green Toblerone-shaped chalets, several of them occupied. A few youngsters lounged on the steps, idling the day away. It felt a little like ‘Center Parcs’ and I realised that it was, in fact, a sports and recreation centre. In Summer there would be an admission charge, but in low season it was free to wander, and we did.

It was wonderfully peaceful, with just the odd angler, casting a line. Fishing competitions are held here sometimes, and in high season there are kayaks and pedaloes for hire. A small child, well-wrapped up despite the warm temperatures, was digging in the sand on the man made beach. Her Dad hovered indulgently nearby. Looking out across the lake at a certain point it becomes impossible not to see what everyone takes for granted around here. Smoke rising from the chimneys of the power station that brought employment to this area. A blot on the landscape.

It’s rather sad, isn’t it? But no-one seems to mind. Jadzia had happy memories of distant summers, spent splashing around in those waters. And we had no time to linger. Her husband was off to work- at the power station, of course.

A warm glow

Still in Zawady, this is where I lay my head on an evening, before waking to that lovely view. I had a post almost in readiness for today, when Paula whispered ‘glow’. Her wish is my command- if I’m able. Go and worship the sun over at her place. It’s beautiful.

P.S. Grateful thanks to Lunapic– an old pal.

Jo’s Monday walk : Zawady

In total contrast to my last, extremely urban walk in the city of Łódź, I’m taking you out into the Polish countryside today. I’m going right back to where my Polish story began, in the village of Zawady, around 60kms south of the big city. It’s a different world! Dad was born in this village, more than 88 years ago.

As you can imagine, changes have taken place, but not too many. The original farmstead is still there, but much of the land has been divided up between the family. The photo above is the view I woke up to from my bedroom, on my first day back in the village. Early morning mist burnt off to a beautiful day, and it was time to feed the week old ducklings.

I had been staying in the suburbs of Kraków, so the difference was considerable. The daughter of a farmer, with memories of driving the tractor with her Dad, Zygmunt, when she was young, my cousin Jadwiga loves her garden. But growing vegetables and keeping hens has to come second to her day job, and more especially to her dearly loved grandchildren. They are seldom far away, as daughter Ania lives in a self build bungalow within the grounds. Meet Kinga and Nadia, with mum, Ania, and Babcia, Jadzia.

For those of you who might have wondered, ‘what is Poland like?’ let’s slide the gate open, and we’ll step outside and see. Poland is a big country and land is cheap. It’s not uncommon to see ‘land for sale’ signs in the woods that surround most villages.

The houses vary considerably, some still old farmhouses, others in a far more modern style. I peep over the fence at the pond which once belonged to Aunt Lusia. Now her daughter Graźyna and husband Marek have built a home there, among the cherry trees.

You don’t have to walk far before you’re at the end of the village, and the woods beyond. I retrace my steps, on the other side of the road this time, passing by cousin Marysia’s beautifully modern home, and a sign that cautions of the ‘good’ dog that bites!

A crossroads points to Ławy, 1.3kms away, and I am tempted to follow it out into open countryside. But first I need to complete the circuit, back to the main road through the village. These decorated crosses are found on many corners, scattered throughout Poland. Number 16F is Ania and Hubert’s house, and the garden design business she runs from home.

As the sun droops in the sky and the children play out on their bikes, I cast one more look at the cherries, and then head off down the lane.

Don’t worry! I do return, but I wanted to show you the ‘whole’ of Zawady. It’s not very big! I hope you enjoyed meeting the place, and my family.

I’ve decided to link this post to My personal A-Z of Poland, which has been sadly neglected in recent times. Much of what appears there is relevant and will provide good background, for anyone who’s interested. Time to put the kettle on now, for this week’s shares.

Many thanks to all of you who make Mondays a bit special for me. Your support and encouragement sees me through the week. If you have a walk to share and you haven’t joined me yet… well, what’s stopping you? Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above. You’ll be made more than welcome.

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Let’s start the ball rolling with Laura, in Costa Brava’s wild spaces this week :

A taste of salt and honey

Pauline treats us to a glimpse of an Eye, through floral abundance :

A Walk through sunny Southbank, Brisbane

Hop off your bike and take a walk in equally sunny California!

My weekly ramble- John Nicholas Trail

Yvette has her own unique and stylish way of doing things :

Jubilant Walk with Jo (Nature Day 1)

And you know that Drake does too! Welcome to Kayserberg :

Home sweet home

Geoff spent his April engrossed in a challenge. King’s Cross? Well, he might be!

X is for Crosses#atozchallenge

I don’t often think of hill climbing and Jude in the same sentence, but… she did it!

Conquering Godolphin Hill

Thanks a lot for your company, and for your friendship. I know that this was a very low key walk, but I wanted to share a little more than just a pair of boots. In the coming weeks I hope to give you a flavour of Poland, seen through my eyes. Take good care, and enjoy your walking!

I almost forgot my good friends over at Monday Escapes. Maybe something for the Bank Holiday weekend?

Six word Saturday

Thursday’s still Special on a Saturday

Last Saturday you accompanied me to a rather wonderful cake shop in Kraków. Just so you don’t think that I spent the entire two weeks eating cake, I think you should come with me on a little stroll to the park.

It’s a very busy household I was staying in. Work in the bakery starts in the early hours and often Łukasz leaves home before 5. Ula combines study with learning the trade, sometimes in the cake shop till 10 at night. Their father, Adam, is at the helm of the bakery and machine manufacturing business all day long. Which leaves wife Marta at home, feeding and nurturing, whilst oldest daughter Weronika looks after eleven month old Bartek. So what was I to do?

Find a bench in the Park and watch the world at play. All was peaceful when I first arrived, but soon excited voices broke into my reverie. A posse of pre-schoolers were being coraled in the playground. Peace was gone, but a smile lit my face.

Paula makes Thursday special every week, and you know that’s still true on a Saturday.

Hope you have a great weekend. Why not share your six words with Cate, and I’ll be back on Monday with a Polish walk for you.

May wildflowers

I came home from Poland to a few days of lovely weather, which even saw me having breakfast in the garden one morning. The clouds are back now but I just made it to the cliff tops at Seaham in time to catch a few wild orchids to add to Jude’s collection of Wildflowers.

ul Piotrkowska with Jo

In case any of you missed this! I couldn’t let you, could I? Many thanks for your friendship, lovely lady. Smiles and hugs coming your way 🙂 🙂

12monthsinwarsaw

restlessjo has been a blogging friend for more than a year. She lives in England, I in Australia, but we both have Polish connections and here we are meeting in Łódź, a fact that has us hugging frequently in disbelief. What a day of talk and photography, as we stroll along Piotrkowska, delighted with each other, Łódź and the ease of speaking English.

A bit of Łódź background. It was one of the biggest European textile centres in the nineteenth century. Its city icon is a boat, which is what “łódź” (pronounced woodge) means in Polish: it appears on man hole covers, the base of lampposts, garbage tins, and trams, as the mermaid does in Warsaw. I wonder at the boat, when there is no sign of a river in my limited explorations. I discover that once upon a time, according to “Łódź in your pocket”, there were eighteen rivers…

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Jo’s Monday walk : Meeting Meg

If ever you need a sweet-natured soul to have a stroll with- or better still, a hug or five and a hoot of laughter- I have a peerless recommendation for you. I’m a little hesitant in writing this post because I’m not sure that I can do the lady full justice. If you saw Meg’s post, ul Piotrkowska with Jo, you’ll know that she has already done my job for me. And that is very typical of Meg. Swift to offer the hand of friendship, she turned my day in the city of Łódź into something quite extraordinary.

First, let me give you a little background. The key to Meg’s being in Poland is her wnuki, her grandchildren.( pronounced f-nooki, it’s another of those tricky Polish words) How many people do you know who would leave their beloved home (think ‘good for the soul’ quiet beaches, and Australian flora and fauna, all photographed by Meg in exquisite detail) to take up residence in Poland’s capital city, Warsaw, for a year? To be near those children. Speaking almost no Polish, and reduced, like myself, to a perplexed frown as conversations roll past her, Meg then agrees to meet with an English lady in an unknown city. To make it easier for that lady, she books 3 nights in the city, alone, almost immediately after a family trip to the Polish lakes.

And now for my part. I know all too well the frustrations of a lack of ability to communicate. Occasionally I have thought that ‘signing’ would be a better method than trying to speak the Polish language. I get by well on hugs and smiles within the family but that doesn’t go down so well with strangers. Understandably the family are not keen to let this nodding, smiling person go wandering in a big city, where few of them are keen to venture themselves. How can they know that it is in my nature to wander? That I thrive on it. I have even done a little research and know how to get to Łódź. And beyond that, I will have Meg!

It is with reluctance but great patience that Andrzej accompanies me to the bus stop, and we wait and wait. When I am almost convinced that it will not arrive, despite his phone call to the bus company and being told ‘Będzie’- ‘it will come’, a small white minibus hoves into view. Can you imagine the bubble of excitement inside me as the lush green of Springtime Poland slides past my window?

Enough! The audience awaits. I step off the bus almost into her arms and we make it to a corner cafe for much needed kawa (coffee, of course). And there I discover just how delightful a companion I am to have for my day of freedom. The cafe is situated on a corner of Poland’s longest street, Ulica Piotrkowska. With unfailing lack of sense of direction I point to the ‘top end’ of the street and suggest that we head that way. Meg smiles, and points the other way. Armed with a map from the TI and directions on how to find the bus stop from which I must later leave the city, cameras in hand and huge grins on our faces, we begin to walk.

As Meg has pointed out in her beautiful post, the architecture in Łódź is ravishing. There really is something for everyone, whether you favor shabby or chique. My tendency is always to beauty and elegance, but I can sometimes be won over by the forlorn and unloved. We are each other’s eyes, and at times it’s hard to concentrate, as smiles and snippets of conversation bob back and forth. I have never taken photographs in tandem like this, and it is a remarkable experience. Sometimes I pause to see what Meg has focused on, and later I realise that she was doing the same with me. How very wonderful to find someone who understands the joy of just being there.

Part of the reassurance I tried to give my Polish family was that I would not be straying far from Ulica Piotrkowska, and there truly was little need to. Our first landmark is Plac Wolnosci, where I dance in delight at the passing trams. Meg finds this funny. There is every kind of transport along this street, but trams always bring a smile to my lips.

Looking up, past a rusty old gate, cavorting weasels (or maybe rats?) catch my eye, but I have my sights on Palac Poznanskiego, Museum of the History of Łódź. Time is precious and the weather superb so, having found our target, we agree to bypass it in favour of a leafy green space. Meg takes huge pleasure in the soft shadows and gently waving trees. My best efforts for Jude are rather pathetic, and I start to giggle.

We are at the very top of Piotrkowska, and turn to head back. On a corner of Plac Wolnosci, the church of Zesłania Ducha Świętego is bathed in bright sunlight. The door is ajar, and we enter quietly. There are only a couple of people knelt in silent worship and I manage a few shots, trying hard not to be intrusive. ‘Are you any good at mosaics?’ asks Meg. I shrug and try.

Time to decide where to eat. There are plenty of choices and we are agreed that an outdoor table will do nicely. Ordering from the board outside our restaurant, I manage to confuse the waitress. Or does she confuse me? Soup, and then nalesniki (pancakes) with spinach, appear in rapid succession. I decide to ask again for some wine, and am greatly relieved when it arrives.

Many confidences were exchanged before we continued along this engaging street. Rubinstein with his piano vied for our attention with local born poet, Julian Tuwim. Whimsy there was aplenty, and some quite enchanting sculptures of children.

Nifty little archways and passages lead off Piotrkowska, some of them quite irresistible. Most lead to restaurants and quiet courtyards, but the art gallery and cafe Surindustrialle was one of our best finds. Metal art from industrial waste. Take a look at the website and you’ll see what I mean.

I have so many more photos that I could show you, but perhaps you are getting weary. Meg showcases many of them brilliantly so, if you haven’t already paid a visit, I hope that you will do so. One good thing about this walk- it’s almost impossible to get lost. But reaching the end of Ulica Piotrkowska is another matter altogether. I don’t know if we got even halfway along its 4.9km.

All too soon it was time to look for the bus stop that would take me back to the family. A landmark for Meg in finding her way around the city, the main tram station was chiefly a source of happiness for me. I had glimpsed it, with curiosity, from my bus window on the way into Łódź. Just look!

A block further south and our grand street was starting to look a little more humble. A colossal renovation project, it’s hard to know when it will be finished. But our time together was almost at an end. The bus stop was found too quickly and we looked for somewhere to conclude our meeting. Not a cafe in sight, we subsided onto the bench and continued to talk. There was so much to ask… so much to say! But 45 minutes later the bus revved its engine and I reluctantly got on board. One last hug and a wave and Meg was gone. I was both exhilarated and bereft!

I realise that this walk is of a far more personal nature than usual, but I wanted it to be a tribute to a very special lady. I do hope you enjoyed your walk with ‘us’, and I very much hope that she and I will meet again someday.

Should you be tempted by what you’ve seen, you will find the Tourist Information website in Łódź a valuable source of information.

Thank you for your patience everybody. Often I visited your blogs whilst sitting on the sofa, as Dad and my cousins watched TV, but my Smartphone has its limits (or the truthful version- I do!) ‘Normal service’ should be resumed now. Welcome to my walks! Join in if you like. The details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above. Time for a cuppa, isn’t it?

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It always tickles me how many of our place names are the same- Monteith St. for example. Thanks, Anabel!

Toronto: an urban walk

There’s no getting away from it- Susan is a lady after my own heart :

Just for the shell of it

Classical Glass

Yvette always supplies interesting people to compliment her doors (and walks) :

Thursday Doors (walk-ing)

I’m inclined to forget that Becky has an English blog. Come along with me and learn all about ‘navigations’ :

A lovely English stroll for a Monday

I have done this walk to the Algarve’s Fonte da Mesquita but, unlike Becky, I didn’t see the orchids. Sad face! :

A happy case of ‘orchidelirium’ on our walk to the spring!