A relaxed moment, chatting and looking out on the stillness of the lagoon.
Not at all like the intensity of Paula’s Thursday’s Special. You will love it!
Photography
Jo’s Monday walk : Legends of Marim
I’m turning the tables on Becky this morning and putting my own slant on one of her walks. Exploring the delightful Legends Way will supply all the details you need, so I can quite simply enjoy myself.
The Algarve abounds in legends. In Olhão they have been brought to life in sculpture. The stories are a little naive, but no less lovable for that. Alina and Abdala, above, are star-crossed lovers in the traditional sense, and I love the way that her hair flows around him.
I started my wanderings (with Becky, I might add, but more of that later) at the beginning of Caminho das Lendas, or Legend’s Way. I paid due attention to the maps but, inevitably, then followed my nose. The little chap above was one of my favourites. So poised and graceful in the way that young boys have, with a ball at their feet.
Beware who you invite into your game though. He might just bewitch and spirit you away! It’s such a ‘lived in’ looking place, Olhão! The ravages of time have certainly got to some of it but you could be kind and describe it as full of character.
I really don’t much care for the Boy with Big Black Eyes, so I couldn’t resist having a little fun with him. I thought I looked my best all wobbly, but he doesn’t look very amused, does he? Distinctly bad-tempered, in fact!
The next character struck me as rather sorrowful, but who wouldn’t be, if swallowed by a whale? The wonder of it is that Arraul survived! But I’m glad that he did as he allegedly created the sand barriers that protect the Algarve to this day.
There’s one other character you ought to meet, but I was feeling rather wilful and the boats moored in the marina were demanding my attention.
Bom Sucesso, the caravel that sailed the Atlantic to Brazil, always draws my admiration. I usually meet Becky close by here, her husband Robert having cast a discerning eye over the day’s catch in the fish market. Both are lovers of fish and they had a treat in store for me. I’d been hearing about Vai e Volta and was keen to try out this ‘all you can eat’ fish restaurant.
For just 10 euros, the fish kept on arriving! I sampled salmon, sea bass, sardines, and tuna among others. It all depends what the boats bring in that day. In addition there was delicious cornbread, salad, potatoes and a tasty dip. What more can you want? Simply amazing for the price! And don’t forget to ask for the sweet menu, especially if you like carobs and figs. I would show you, but I was so full that I was sharing mine with the other half. I daren’t stop to take the photo, else it disappeared! I’ve given you the link to their Facebook page to help you find your way there. Not everybody is lucky enough to go with Becky!
I almost forgot to mention Floripes, a voluptuous lady in white who was stranded far from her Moorish home.
That’s it for legends, and back to boats! I never can resist them for very long.
The sun was starting to set and it was time to leave. In writing this I had cause to look back at O is for Olhão and remember what a very interesting maritime history this Eastern Algarve town has. It’s well worth a visit.
Legend of Marim
Lovers entwined in metal
Lost to the river
Feeling quite poetic. Must be time to put that kettle on and read a few posts!
Thank you so much for keeping me company on my rambles. It is very much appreciated. I’d love you to join me with a walk of your own and it’s very easy to do so. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Please find some time to visit these walks. You won’t regret it!
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I’m always thrilled when a great photographer joins my walks! Thank you, Tobias!
That bit of blue makes all the difference, and it’s beautiful where Eunice lives :
Lady Lee keeps on coming up with places on my list of dream destinations :
A friendly chat in Dollar and a money mushroom. That’s what I call value, Anabel :
What’s that about diamonds and best friends? Sadly, Woolly can’t afford these!
Jackie doesn’t think money matters in Vegas. It costs nothing to look, after all!
On the other hand, safaris don’t come cheap. But just look at what Geoff got for his money!
It’s always an artistic look at life with Jesh :
People will keep showing me fabulous places I’ve never been! Thanks, BiTi 🙂
Part of Hanna’s personal history, I loved this walk with her :
Vikings, The Sea Stallion from Glendalough and Roskilde Cathedral
My friend Drake knows a thing or two about Vikings, past and present :
I always like to share pretty places, and Rosemay seldom lets me down :
Strolling Round the streets of Potsdam
Splendid isolation with Paula, another very special photographer :
And just in case you didn’t follow the link earlier on, here’s lovely Becky!
On the other side of the river
I think I’ll be back to grey skies and an English walk next week. You’ve been warned! Have yourselves a great week.
Six Word Saturday
Not easy to find in Seaham?
You’d think that a bleak north eastern beach would be a good place to find a little Solitude, wouldn’t you? Strangely enough, that isn’t the case. This particular beach has become a mecca for sea glass hunters and gatherers. 
You could hide out in the caves with a fair chance of solitude, but they’re not very safe. Erosion has created some fascinating shapes, though.
So your best bet is to head as far down the beach as you can go, without getting your feet wet, that is. Even there, a far from home Devon artist was determinedly hunting through the pebbles, looking for sea glass.
This is the lure, at the end of the beach. A solitary and beautiful rock, leaning out to sea. Seeking its own solitude.
There’s always a way to find solitude, if you crave it. For me, it’s an essential part of life. A bit like the Weekly Photo Challenge.
I hope this weekend brings you whatever you require. Cate usually requires six words on a Saturday, but often she gets more.
From Radiant to Remote
Radiant
Alimentary
Frontal
Arboreal
Remote
It’s time to Pick a Word in February with Paula. You will be astounded at how special Thursdays can be.
Jo’s Monday walk : Ribeira de Algibre
The first place you would think to look for a captivating mural is a sleepy Algarvean village in Portugal, isn’t it? No- me neither! But it was one of the highlights of a recent walk in Ribeira de Algibre. Situated north west of Loule and not far from the village of Boliqueime, this is walk no. 17 in Julie Statham’s book, “Let’s Walk Algarve”.
The chief criteria for this walk was that it was level, and not too long, the other half having sustained a limp. I could, of course, have left him with his feet up, reading a book, but he insisted on being gallant. There’d be ample time to read later. Out past the quarry we went, left through the village of Parragil, then left again. We parked, as instructed in the book, just past the bridge, and slap bang next to the most amazing wall.
The owner of Vila Dias must have an artistic nature, and a sense of humour. Reluctantly I turned my back on it to follow the trail, just before the bridge. We are in an area of olive groves and vineyards, with lofty bamboo screening off the narrow river.
The path twists and turns, revealing shallow riverbed on one side and regimented rows of vines on the other. I pounce with glee on a small clump of white flowers- early narcissi, cushioned in luxuriant green, and guarded by ancient olives. 1000 years of age is not uncommon for these gnarled beauties, weatherbent by the sharp winds.
The soil is it’s usual, rich red and deep puddles occasionally surprise. Neither of us can remember any rain. All is still and calm when, out of nowhere, the carefree sound of pop music on a radio. We exchange smiles and hum along, peering to see where the sound is coming from. Around each bend we gaze expectantly, but there is no sign of the music maker, and gradually the sound fades into the distance.
One of the advantages of this walk is that it is split into two halves, circles that begin and end in the village. Each takes only about 45 minutes, and there is a cafe where you might linger before starting the second half. Except that, of course, Cafe Ribeira is closed. Perhaps later in the year? Not a soul is stirring, though a horse gives us a good long look.
I consult the other half, who has limped gamely along. We might as well do the other half, he says, and so we do. The path leads behind a house, on the other side of the road, and the book directs us to look for an abandoned mill.
The trail continues, partly by the river and then into more woodland. Deep in a thicket of olives we spot a herd of goats and I try to edge nearer without giving the alarm. Not entirely successful, but I manage a couple of shots.
All is tranquillity. We are passed, twice, by the same cyclist, obviously doing his morning rounds. In the vineyards we see 3 or 4 people working, clearing and burning dead branches. It’s a wonderful, pastoral scene.
As we approach the river again, suddenly the sound of the transistor radio fills the air. We gaze all around expectantly, but still, no-one is to be seen. A shy picnicker, perhaps? Smiling we return to the village. The sun has changed position and I’m drawn again into the world of the mural.
Even the bus shelter was pretty! That’s it for another week. I hope you enjoyed walking with me. Let’s get the kettle on and enjoy that cuppa now. And for you sympathetic souls, let me reassure you that ‘the limp’ was much better next day.
Thanks everybody, for keeping me company again, and for your generous support and contributions. Anyone can join in with a walk of their own, long or short. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. You’ll be more than welcome.
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A place with a whole heap of history. Let Lady Lee show you around :
You’ve all got time for this one! Thanks, Eunice :
Woolly has progressed to Amsterdam and windmills :
Something you do with a Silver Cross pram, Anabel?
Jackie’s determined to walk me into the ground this week!
Lisa has some interesting graffiti for you, in Tel Aviv :
Kate takes on a scary climbing challenge in Scotland :
Munro Bagging in the Arrochar Alps
Not so much a walk as a series of reminiscences from Geoff :
Drake knows I have a weakness for Samso. It’s so easy to see why :
Yvette has a fascinating art challenge going on so I’m chuffed she could make time for me!
Walk with Jo : Mom’s Siam Carytown (Day 54 0f 365 Days of Art)
Fancy another challenge yourself? Jaspa has all the details :
Sam’s Ses Challenge #5 : Mountain
I’ve done this one before, but not the right way around. Typical! Thanks, Becky :
Remembering Gilda amongst the Almond Blossom
Jude delights me with a walk in her neck of the woods. Could this be the year I get to Cornwall?
Have a great week! Here in the UK there’s just a chance that Spring is in the air. Wherever you are, try to get out and enjoy it.
Cork or costume, in São Brás de Alportel?
The Museu do Traje, or Costume Museum, in São Brás de Alportel is quite a fascinating place. Housed in a beautiful nineteenth century palace, I was aware of it’s existence but had never before managed to be in the right place at exactly the right time. A cool, but sunny, Sunday afternoon proved just perfect. At 2.15pm a cheerful gentleman wielding a huge metal key unlocked the graceful gates and the voyage of discovery began.
Elaborate high ceilings and chandeliers stop me in my tracks. I’m not sure what I was expecting but the style and shape of the doorways pins an instant smile to my face. In the first small foyer an exhibition, ‘The Wheels of Time’, sets the scene. Beyond this I step into the fashion plates of an old world magazine. I know that my daughter would be in her element here, and try to capture some of the details for her.
In a darkened alcove I find two stunning Art Nouveau pieces. A corridor leads from here to a kitchen, laid out with local produce for sale.
But for me the detail that I most enjoy is the way that the shutters fold open over the delicate glass panels above the doors. The sunlight through the windows makes those shadows sing. And don’t miss the keyhole, will you?
Just when I think that I’ve seen all the delights available and am about to step outside, the curator beckons me in some agitation. I have missed something crucial. You see, this isn’t only a costume museum. It is also the home of cork.
I’m led out of a side door and across to a large barn. A screen is suspended in the centre and at the push of a button a film begins. It demonstrates the whole process of cork production, from the growth of the oaks, the periodic cutting of the bark, the boiling to kill tanins and the pressing and cutting into the final products. It is an incredible tribute to man’s ingenuity. Within the barn are a variety of displays. A huge press presides over a selection of harnesses and carriages. Outside, a pleasant garden offers more.
A modern auditorium has been added to the grounds and Sunday evenings host a programme of concerts. A jazz musician is setting up as I depart. In addition there are lessons in everything from making bobbin lace to bridge classes and choir throughout the week. It’s good to see the local community getting behind the upkeep of this lovely property. I hope you’ve enjoyed looking around with me and, for those who might be interested, I’ve enclosed a video telling a little more about the life of cork.
P.S If you’d like to know a little more about the history of the building take a look at Becky’s post. She managed some great research.
Jo’s Monday walk : Lagoão Trail
I do like to have a bit of fun on a walk, and for me that invariably means water. When the guide book says that the river might not be fordable after heavy rainfall, I picture great torrents. But this is, after all, the Algarve, and the prospect of being swept away downstream is not huge. The only way to find out is to follow the trail and see.
So it was that we parked up, between the football ground and the fire station, in the wonderfully somnolent village of São Marcos da Serra. Our destination that day was the hilltop village of Alferce, site of yet another magnificent Presepio de Natal, this one with life-sized figures. The Lagoão Trail was almost en route, so it was decided to ‘make a day of it’.
This is a nicely level, circular 10km walk, initially following the river. Much of the scenery has a soft Autumn tinge to it on this January day. A great billow of smoke announces a farmer, burning off dead wood and shrubs. The delicate pink of a rose bush delights my eye.
Before too long we approach the ford, which I’m happy to say is fordable. Mick goes first, in his sturdy boots. While I’m fiddling about taking my shoes off, a car splashes through, catching me completely by surprise.
I linger to gaze into the swirling waters, lapping clear and cool at my bare toes. The river is moving quite swiftly, creating gurgly pools in its midst. Satisfied with my brief plodge, I follow the trail, admiring the wispy fronds of toffee-coloured tamarisk.
Soon a junction is reached. Consulting the map it’s obvious that the walk can be shortened, but the reservoir beautifully reflects the umbrella pines and it’s too tempting to continue to walk beside it.
The trail winds away from the reservoir and past a couple of tired-looking farms. A posse of cats try to outstare me, in that way that cats do. Distracted by them, and trying to photograph a heap of drying cork, I fail to notice the dog till it’s leaping and snarling at my side. My protector has his toe boot at the ready, and fortunately it backs off.
Hurrying on around the bend, I catch the tinkling of a bell. I anticipate goats, but it is in fact another dog. A much more laidback character, this sheepdog scarcely looks in my direction, but he has an ear cocked for his charges. They watch me with curiosity, from the other side of the wall.
The final stretch of the walk turns back beside the river. I’m quite surprised to find a railway track ahead but, checking my map, it appears the line runs north to Beja in the Alentejo.
As often happens, the road back into the village involves a bit of uphill, but there are gleaming white chimney pots to distract, and even an iris, peeping out of foliage. A couple of villagers sit on the steps of their houses, in the sleepy warmth. In the main square a few benches are occupied, next to the pretty little church. I peer into a shop window at a Nativity scene made entirely of cork. Not easy to photograph! A sign at the community centre indicates a main display inside, but it won’t open until 3.00, and I’ll be gone.
A glint of sunlight draws me towards the Christmas tree. It’s made from recycled plastics. A brilliant idea, and one we could all copy.
The only restaurant appears to be closed, but there’s a tiny cafe where a tumbler of wine and a cake costs very little. Duly fortified, it’s down through the village and back across the river. The empty car park is now overflowing and it appears it’s ‘match day’. Young, fit bodies mill about and it’s time to reluctantly move on.
This walk features at page 100 of the Walking Trails in the Algarve, where you will find a map and details. Time to put the kettle on?
Many thanks to you all for continuing to share your walks with me, no matter what the weather. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, and everyone’s welcome!
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I rarely turn down a good scone. I guess Anabel knows that :
A stroll in the grounds of Scone Palace
Say hello to Eunice, please? A Meccano bridge and Mandarin duck make a pleasing combination :
A familiar theme- Capability Brown- from Lady Lee :
Going prospecting with Liesbet!
Things to see in the Northern Gold Country
Jackie explores an inspiring garden :
Albin Polasek Sculpture Gardens
A boat, a beach hut and a lighthouse with Stephanie in Puget Sound :
A Walk through Point No Point County Park
I really enjoyed looking at Brugge with Woolly. Have you missed any of his posts?
Just a tiny bit jealous of Becky, who’s back in the Algarve, walking, on my behalf!
More than a glimpse of the Guadiana
It won’t be so warm in this country! Play a game with Biti?
London Wlogger is doing a grand job of hosting walks around our capital, including part of my old stomping ground :
Mile End Park to London Fields : Exploring Parks of the 19th and 21st Century
And are you familiar with When in my Journeys? This is a lovely walk!
A walk on the streets of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
Sometimes photography can be pure poetry. Paula is surely mistress of the art form :
Braving the Elements with Grace
We’ve had some ferocious weather this month. Drake examines the debris around the Baltic :
Denzil tells a sorry tale, but all’s well that ends well :
Sint-Agatha-Rode and the patron saint of breast cancer
And Carol finds something really rather mysterious in Cornwall :
Not so much a walk as a seal fan club, with beautiful photos. Thanks, Susan!
That’s it for another week. I hope you enjoyed sharing. Take good care of yourselves!
Six word Saturday
Just one last ‘Presepio de Natal’
In the hilltop village of Alferce, in Portugal’s Algarve, a gathering is taking place on the streets.
Wise men, shepherds and curious onlookers, they have come to see the Nativity scene at the heart of the village. And who can blame them?
Isn’t it beautiful? If graceful can be said to be “full of grace”, I think this qualifies for the Weekly Photo Challenge. Don’t you agree?
Pop in and see Cate if you have six words to share, too.
The Church of São Francisco
Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve, has a reputation for restoring her many churches. In the years I have been visiting I have marvelled at some of the changes wrought. Still it is a thrill to turn a corner and find another, ripe for renovation. If you look closely at the gallery below, you will see what I mean. Exposed bare plaster scars the walls and alcoves.
Previously I had only been into the gardens, the church being always locked. Just occasionally the gardens would be padlocked too, and I’d feel a sense of deprivation. A quiet bench, the overgrown trees dappling patterns onto ruined walls, somehow they provide a warm and soothing space.
Still, it was a revelation to venture inside this church. First appearances can be deceptive. A curtain veiled the entrance to a side chapel. Stepping through a little cautiously, I was utterly unprepared for the figures that greeted me there.
The Church of São Francisco has met with it’s share of disasters. Since construction in 1272 it has suffered 2 earthquakes (in 1722 and 1755), a landslide in 1843 and a fire in 1881. Perhaps it’s time it had a little luck. Should you find yourself in Tavira and the church happens to be open, please deposit a few coins in the collection box. It may help speed the recovery.
This might not be what Paula had in mind for Traces of the Past this week, but it’s an opportunity to share with you Thursday’s Special.
Jo’s Monday walk : Enchanting Castro Marim
The period just after Christmas can be an enchanting time to be in the Algarve. Especially if you are lucky and the skies are awash with blue. Each of the towns and villages have their own Presepio de Natal or Nativity scene, and these vary from life size models to much simpler displays in a church, or a shop window. I hope to share a few of these with you, but today we’re taking a short walk to find a rather special one.
You may remember Castro Marim as the scene of a remarkable Medieval Fair each August. The town lies right at the border with Spain, looking out over the River Guadiana. Alongside the river lie a series of centuries old salt pans. A high quality salt is harvested here and, for the first time ever, 3 tons of it have formed the basis of the local Nativity scene. It is a startling and beautiful sight.
The detail is extraordinary. The trees are delicately crafted from wisps of plants, and every conceivable craft is depicted in amongst them. Did you notice the pumpkin patch, and the birds protecting their eggs up on the rooftop? And the storks aloft upon the chimney? You probably need to click on the gallery for a closer look. If you like, you can throw a few coins, in appreciation.
The Presepio de Natal is very conveniently and easily signed from the main parking area in Castro Marim, and takes place on Rua 25 de Abril. Maybe a date for next year’s diary? But as we are here in the centre of town I’m sure you’d like a look around. Any potential kings among you?
Climb the steps to the Igreja Matriz and you have sweeping views of the town and its surrounds. You can peep through the grills of the church at the regal azulejo panel, and spy on the locals hanging out their washing.
A little meandering will bring you within sight of the gardens of Revelim de St. Antonio. You cannot miss them because they are crowned by a windmill. But first I have to warn you, there’s a bit of a climb.
I was delighted to find that the restaurant at the summit was open. Can you imagine a nicer spot to linger over a coffee laced with cream?
It made the climbing a few steps entirely worthwhile. I hope you enjoyed this gentle saunter. I’m saving the strenuous stuff for later.
Thank you all for your patience. I have tried to pop in on a few of you but, if I’ve missed you, please accept my apologies. I’m travelling back to the UK today so my responses won’t be immediate but I’ll get there as soon as I can. Meantime, pop that kettle on! You have some fine walks to enjoy.
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Nothing beats a canalside stroll in my book. Thanks for being so patient, Anabel :
Jackie’s been out and about chasing a bit of magic :
The Wizarding World of Harry Potter
And Woolly had a grand time ‘In Brugge’. There are some beautiful images!
It gets pretty cold in Bavaria but it’s so beautiful! Thanks for sharing, Lady Lee :
Much warmer where lovely Becky was. We managed to meet up again in the Algarve :
It maybe midwinter but it doesn’t feel like it
I thought I’d lost Susan, but fortunately she has kept right on walking :
And Violet Sky’s been busy looking for bargains at Honest Ed’s :
What would a walk be without Drake for company?
And the ‘other’ Susan has some lovely ideas for strolling in New York City :
Take a Stroll with Me Through Rockefeller Park
Isn’t it kind when people remember you when you’re far away? Thanks, Elaine :
Hope the new year is progressing well for you. See you soon with more walks and reminiscences.
restlessjo 
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