Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Beside the Tees

An elusive sun over the Tees

An elusive sun hovers over the River Tees

Crisp, frosty mornings in the Christmas holidays.  What do you do?  Lie in bed, wallowing in the warmth?  Well, that’s one option.  But you know that this is Jo’s Monday walk, and really, you’ll feel so much better if you get out for a bit of fresh air.

A scarf would be good, and maybe a hat.  Let’s not loiter and you’ll soon warm up.  I have a nice spot for you, and there’s even a Victorian tea room to round things off in.  Bet that got your attention, didn’t it?

I’m going to Preston Park this morning, beside the River Tees.  There’s ample free parking and a good playground, if any of you have children. (or surplus energy)

Isn't there something about water and reflections?

Isn’t there something about watery reflections?

And cloud reflections

And clouds!

There’s not much activity down at the landing stage today, but in summer there are boats to hire. A couple of regal swans gaze disdainfully at the ducks.  Well, they are rather common!

The landing stage

The landing stage

The path runs alongside the Tees in both directions, so spin a coin or follow your instincts.  You can loop back into Preston Park when you’ve seen enough.  The Teesside Heritage Trail will take you all the way to neighbouring Yarm, but you have to leave the river bank and follow a stretch of road to join it.  This morning we’ll stay close by the river.

The Tees looks pretty full right now

The Tees looks pretty full right now

The trees are looking quite sparse

But the trees are rather forlorn!

The sun casts interesting shadows

The sun casts some interesting shadows

And it's a great place for dogs to romp. Can you see him?

And the dogs just love to romp here.  Can you see one?

The dogs are having their own excitable game of ‘tiggy’ and it’s not easy to track one down with the camera.  There are lots of dog walkers out and about, and a relaxed, happy, holiday feeling.

Aren't those wispy clouds lovely?

Aren’t these wispy clouds really lovely?

But I bet that water's cold!

But I bet that water’s cold!

Let's head back up into the park

Let’s head back up into the park

Anyone feeling active?

Anyone feeling active?

Or there's a skate park?

Or there’s a skate park, if you fancy?

You’ll remember I suggested a cuppa in the Victorian tearooms?  I’d promised my husband a toasted teacake (hoping to get him out of bed on a chilly morning) but it didn’t quite work out that way.  It was fine, though.

The Victorian Street was looking very festive

The Victorian Street was looking very festive

Chocolate anyone?

Chocolate anyone?

But there's a welcoming light on in the tearooms

But there’s a welcoming light on in the tearooms

It was fresh outside and I could see a smiling face beckoning from behind the counter.  Two smiling faces, in fact, and no customers except us.  Because it was the holiday period, the tearooms were being run by volunteers from the museum staff. You’ve guessed it- no toasted teacakes, but there were complimentary mince pies or biscuits with our mug of coffee.

Plenty of spare tables

Plenty of spare tables

And a beautifully decorated mirror

And a beautifully decorated mirror

You know how these things work.  Seeing us cosily inside, people began to drift in from the courtyard.  A couple with a toddler were encouraging her to play skittles, but the warmth lured them too.  Time for us to move on.

You may remember, I’ve visited Preston Park museum before.  It was back in February and I was given a ticket valid for a full year (for only £1!) so I thought I’d have a look and see what was new. I found an interesting exhibition, which I’ll share with you another day, but you can get a flavour of the museum from my link.

The conservatory was closed to the public, for a wedding reception later in the day, but I still managed a bit of a peek.

There were paper stars suspended from the ceiling

There were paper stars suspended from the ceiling

Pretty, isn't it?

Pretty, don’t you think?

But the best bit was the polar bears and penguins!  I borrowed a couple of photos from the museums’s Facebook page.  I’m sure they won’t mind.

Our last walk of 2014!  It wasn’t too strenuous, was it?  I do hope you’ll join me next year.  I so look forward to your company.

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First, I have some lovely walks to share.  If you’d like to contribute, it’s very straightforward. Take a look at my Jo’s Monday walk page or click on the logo.  Many thanks to everybody for this week’s efforts.  Let’s put that kettle on and have a read, shall we?

Drake is taking me somewhere new this week.  And watery!  It looks fabulous…

Eau de Vologne

And here’s one worth waiting for!  Part 2 of the Botanic Gardens with Jude  :

The Royal Botanic Garden Sydney, and the Domain, part 2 

Aren’t they stylish in Canada?  I love these door decorations from Violet Sky  :

Ring in the holidays! 

And Colline has shared some beautiful windows from Toronto.  I know you’ll love them!

Christmas windows

It just remains to wish you all a joyous and peaceful New Year.  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Auckland Castle

The Deer Lodge

The Deer House

I’ve visited the Deer House and park at Auckland Castle many times, but seldom have I seen it lit by the sun.  I felt especially privileged to have timed my arrival, intending to view the castle, with a glorious, blue-sky, December day.

Known locally as the Bishop’s Palace, Auckland Castle has been a seat of power since the time of the Norman Conquest in the 11th century.  The original building was a manor house or hunting lodge constructed in the late 1100s, but 100 years later it was to become the seat of the Prince Bishops.  The king had granted the Bishop of Durham enormous power.  As the Prince Bishop, it was his job to protect the north east of England from Scottish marauders.  In order to do this, he could raise money from taxes, mint his own coins and lead his own army, so long as he remained loyal to the king.

The then Bishop of Durham, Bishop Beck, established himself at Auckland Castle because he preferred the vast hunting grounds, that went with the estate, to Durham Castle.   Today the park and grounds are open to the public and still retain elements of the Medieval deer park.  Have you ever seen a Deer House?  Well then, let’s go!

We start from the Market Place in Bishop Auckland

We start from the Market Place in Bishop Auckland

Bishop Auckland is a small market town in County Durham, 12 miles south-west of the city of Durham.  It sits at the confluence of the River Wear and its tributary, the River Gaunless.  Entry to the castle grounds is through the 18th century gatehouse, just off the Market Place.

St. Benedict's Gate

The Robinson Clock Tower and Gatehouse

Pass by the castle gates. We'll come back later

Pass by the castle gates.  We’ll come back later!

The Bishop's Stroll

The Bishop’s Stroll

The River Gaunless meanders through the estate, and is crossed by several bridges.  In 1760 the park’s most charming feature was built.  The Gothic Revival style folly was built to provide shelter for the deer and a place for them to be fed.  Guests could watch from a viewing area.  Today sadly there are no deer, but the folly is a romantic backdrop for strolling and picnics.

The path drops away from the castle walls

The path drops away from the castle walls

And suddenly you can glimpse it through the trees

And suddenly you can catch a glimpse, through the trees

Isn't it beautiful?

Isn’t it beautiful?

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Within the grounds there is also an Ice House.  Ever practical, after they’d been hunting, the Bishops needed to keep their meat chilled.  On this occasion I didn’t walk far as I was eager to see inside the castle, but there is a network of paths to enjoy throughout the park.

I was particularly keen to see inside the palace.  I knew very little about the contents, but the one thing I did know was that some very special religious artwork resided there.  The 13 paintings by Spanish master Francisco de Zurbaran have hung in Auckland Castle for 250 years.  They were painted between 1640 and 1644 and 12 of them were bought by Bishop Richard Trevor in 1756, for £125.  He was outbid at auction for the thirteenth, but commissioned Arthur Pond to produce an exact copy of ‘Benjamin’.

The paintings hang in the Long Dining Room, which was redesigned specifically to house them. They depict chapter 49 of the Book of Genesis, and represent Jacob’s death-bed blessings to his 12 sons.  Each son would become a founder of the 12 Tribes of Israel, the beginnings of the Jewish faith.  This was a very deliberate act by Bishop Trevor. Religious tolerance, especially towards the Jews, was in short supply in the 18th century.  Displaying the paintings publicly was an appeal by him for greater consideration of our fellow men.

In 2001 the Church Commissioners planned to sell off the artworks, whose estimated value was £20 million.  A staggering £15 million donation from Yorkshireman and investment banker, Jonathan Ruffer, secured their future, and the Auckland Castle Trust came into being.  Exciting plans for the castle are afoot.

Shall we go inside?

Shall we go inside?

Not wishing to tease, but the first place I’m going to take you to is St. Peter’s Chapel.  Widely acknowledged as the largest private chapel in Europe, it started life in the 12th century as the Banqueting Hall, with buttery, wine cellar and minstrel gallery.  The original chapel was demolished following the English Civil War, but when the Prince Bishops were restored to power, Bishop John Cosin set about the rebuild, in 1660.  Isn’t history a roller coaster?

From the chapel you enter the castle proper.  This has been decorated for Christmas in the old style, with dried fruits and foliage.  Mounting the stairs to the first floor, my eye is drawn to the lovely view framed in the elegant window. Throughout the house, the views to the parkland and beyond command attention.

The entrance hall

The entrance hall

Something of a surprise next!  The Paradise State Bed, used by the Tudors, and an elaborate and unique piece of 15th century oak carving.  Click on the link for more details.

A surprise bed!

The Throne Room follows, and a feature that made me smile.  The 200 year old windows (designed by James Wyatt) are of very pale green and pink tinted glass, ‘to make the ladies appear less pale in the bright sunlight’.  I’ll just flutter my fan a little!

The view to the lawns

The view to the lawns

The moment has arrived- the Long Dining Room and Zubaran’s paintings.  I cannot pretend to do them justice.  You need to see them yourself.  The links give more detail.

Four of Zubaran's masterpieces

Four of Zubaran’s masterpieces

While I browsed around the room, one of the guides approached with a tray.  Ginger wine with apple juice and warm mince pie (a Medieval recipe) seemed a nice seasonal gesture.

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The guide explained that the size of the cake related to power and prestige.  There was obviously no shortage.  I am delighted to have been able to feature Auckland Castle in my Monday walk this week.  I was lucky enough to catch the last weekend of the year and it will now be closed to the public until February.  The grounds are still open if you fancy an invigorating walk meantime, and, of course, there’s a tearoom.

I realise that this post is a little long, but hope that you have enjoyed it, and can find time to check the links to see how special this place is.  I feel sure that it will repay time and investment.

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It’s my last chance this year to thank everybody for making Jo’s Monday walk a success.  I have had some really wonderful contributions and hope that they will continue next year.  Let’s have one last cuppa and a good read :

With all that was happening in Sydney I was so relieved to find Jude fit and well in the Botanic Gardens :

The Royal Botanic Garden Sydney and the Domain, Part 1

While Paula showed me the glory of the Ginkgo tree in Autumn :

Daily walk to Work

Drake always has a sunny disposition, even in the fog!

Foggy, raw- cosiness 

Lovely to have Suzanne join us, with a rather unsettling walk.  Please do welcome her!

The hawk

Amy’s doing a blogging round up of her walks.  There are some real beauties :

A Walk through my Monday Walks

I wasn’t at all familiar with Portsmouth, till Ana took me on a guided walk :

A self-devised and self-guided walk round Portsmouth 

Forest walks are always popular and it’s wonderful to have Indah (and her dog Dante) show us a Rotterdam park. Welcome to the walks, Indah!

Winter walk in Kralingse Forest  

And where better than NYC for a walk at Christmas time?  Thanks, Suze!

New York City- Falling for the High Line

Or for a dash of culture, join Joan, in London  :

A walk at The Wallace

Want to see how they celebrate in Canada?  Then join Colline!

A festive walk

If you’re not too tired (and full!) I hope you manage to get out for a walk over the Christmas period.  I plan to!  Till then, have a wonderful Christmas.

Jo’s Monday walk : A Stokesley Circular

Looking towards Roseberry Topping on the Yorkshire Moors

Looking towards Roseberry Topping

Stokesley is an attractive market town, situated on the River Leven, on the northern edge of the Yorkshire Moors.  It also has the advantage of being surrounded by a flat bit of terrain, so it was greeted with delight as our last walk of the year by my walking group.  The fact that we were ending at a garden centre, with coffee and cake, influenced nobody. (honestly!)

Life can’t be total perfection so we were advised to anticipate a little mud.  And we found some! But not too much. Come along and see.

The fields are just a little bit muddy

The fields are just a little bit muddy

We parked at Strikes Garden Centre, a mile or so from Stokesley.  Walking towards the town, we took the first ‘public footpath’ sign on the left, and crossed the field towards the farmhouse above.  The path swings off to the right and follows a little stream all the way in to Stokesley.

It might be a nice place to live, with that lovely backdrop

It might be a nice place to live, with that lovely backdrop

But, of course, you'd have to like farming!

But, of course, you’d have to like farming

I'm much better at walking!

And I much prefer walking!

Stokesley was granted a charter to hold fairs by Henry III, as far back as 1223.  To this day a weekly market takes place on The Plain, the main square, every Friday, and on the first Saturday of each month there’s a Farmer’s Market too.  Tying in with the Agricultural Show, a four day fair takes place each September, and spans the full length of the High St.

The stream leads us towards Stokesley

The stream will lead you towards Stokesley

At this point we duck down underneath a road bridge.  Careful- it’s a bit slippery!  There was a hard frost the night before and there’s still a little evidence on some of the leaves.

The path curves to the right and in a little while you’re passing between cottages and out onto Levenside.  There is always a flurry of ducks hereabouts on the River Leven.  Sorry guys- no bread today!  We’re eating cake.

Follow the river around to your left and you come to the Pack Horse Bridge, which dates back to the 17th century.

The Pack Horse Bridge and a couple of walkers

The Pack Horse Bridge and a couple of walkers

There are several bridges close together at this point.  Any one of them will take you across the Leven and into the High St., where gracious Georgian buildings are part of a pleasing blend of architecture.  The oldest building in town, the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, has a medieval tower and chancel.  It contains some woodwork carved by the locally famed Mouseman of Kilburn.  His Visitor Centre at Kilburn is not too far away.

Meanwhile, Christmas has come to Stokesley.  But I didn’t see a tree in the main square!

Our steps begin to quicken as we realise that we’re now on the home straight.  Taking the right hand option at the junction, in no time Strikes Garden Centre is back in sight.  I’ll leave the walkers to queue in the cafe while I show you a few of the Christmas sights.  Lots of trees in here!

But you can almost certainly guess who my favourite is

Bet you can guess who my favourite is?

Just one more Monday walk and it’ll be Christmas!  I’ve no idea where we might wander next week, but I hope you’ll keep me company?  If you’re too busy, I’ll understand.  As the sign says, ‘Tis the season to be jolly!’

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I also hope you’ll make time to visit these wonderful walks this week.  Get that kettle on and we’ll take a stroll together, without leaving our armchairs.  If you’d like to join in, details are on my Jo’s Monday walks page, or click on the logo above.  Very many thanks to all my contributors.

Drake’s getting festive in lovely Strasbourg this week  :

Cool impression through cold walk

And Amy has a message, beautifully shared  :

Egret on the lake

When Jude mentioned Clovelly I thought we were in Devon.  So wrong!  :

Clovelly Beach to Bondi

Sue’s taken me to a city I’ve always wanted to see.  Brownie points to Sue, but I’ll skip breakfast!

Spain- Bilbao, the Basque Country, with eels and sherry for breakfast

Meg, meanwhile, has given me a glimpse of a Newcastle in Australia.  No sign at all of ‘fog on the Tyne’.

Visiting an old friend

Thanks a lot for sharing, everybody.  I so enjoy it!  Have a happy, healthy, walking week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Ray Wood and Polar Bear walk

Cherub fountain in the Rose Garden, Castle Howard

Cherub fountain in the Rose Garden, Castle Howard

Some of you may remember that around this time last year I met my daughter for a Grand Day Out, at Chatsworth House in Derbyshire?  The house was beautifully decorated for Christmas, and I would have loved to do the same this year.  Instead I had to settle for a visit to another of England’s beautiful historic homes, Castle Howard in Yorkshire. It’s every bit as fine as Chatsworth, but I had to substitute a husband for a daughter.  Fortunately, he doesn’t mind a walk in beautiful gardens.

The more observant among you will have noticed a reference to a Polar Bear Walk.  Now don’t get too excited- I didn’t find any!  Which was a source of disappointment as it was certainly cold enough for them.  Set within 1,000 acres of beautiful landscape in the Howardian Hills, the house is described by Lonely Planet as ‘one of the world’s top ten greatest mansions’.  That’s quite a claim!   Come with me and see what you think.

The rose garden was looking sadly bare

The rose garden was looking sadly bare

So it was time to go hunting for polar bears

So it was time to go hunting for polar bears

The zigzag of trees climbing the slope was referred to on the map as Polar Bear Walk.  It didn’t seem too much to expect, but I could see neither hide nor hair of one.  Nor could I find an explanation of the name.  Oh, well!

But there was a nice view across the lake.

There was a nice view across the lake.

The sky was an unrelenting shade of gloom but, undaunted, and in the interests of getting warmed up, a scramble up Polar Bear Walk was called for.  It leads to the Reservoir in Ray Wood. A reservoir of sorts has existed in these woods since the 18th century.  Filled from a nearby stream, it supplies the two main fountains in the grounds below, using the force of gravity to drive the fountain jets.

The Reservoir

The Reservoir

With 25 acres of woodland, many of the trees and shrubs in Ray Wood are original species, brought from around the world by the great plant hunters of the 19th and 20th centuries.  The acidic soil supports a variety of thriving rhododendrons- one of my favourite plants.

 

But look what I managed to spot- in December!

But look what I managed to spot- in December!

And the occasional statue

And a statue or two

I loitered for quite a while, watching some grey squirrels frolic.  They kept a playful eye on me, and easily managed to stay out of camera shot.  I always have that kind of relationship with squirrels!  Consulting the map I’d picked up at reception, it was time to leave the woods and press on to the Temple of the Four Winds.  Would this be as draughty as it sounds?

It was certainly a little bleak on this grey old day

It was certainly a little bleak on this grey old day

Originally known as the Temple of Diana, it was designed by Vanbrugh, but remained unfinished at the time of his death in 1726.  Ten years later the interiors were finally decorated by the stuccoist Franceso Vassalli.  The temple was used as a place for reading and refreshment, and beneath it is a cellar where servants prepared food for the family. The temple can be entered on one of the free guided tours, which take place between March and October.

It's quite a vantage point, isn't it?

It’s quite a vantage point, isn’t it?

Even set against such grey skies!

Even set against such grey skies!

There are a number of monuments within the estate, and heading down to the gently curving New River Bridge, the Mausoleum becomes visible on the horizon.  Designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, it stands 90 feet tall and is supported by a colonnade of 20 pillars.

The Mausoleum, on the horizon

The Mausoleum, on the horizon

And in a little more detail

And in a little more detail

The bulrushes don't seem to mind the mist

The bulrushes don’t seem to mind the mist

Statuary dot the grounds and it’s a shame that the sky is not brighter because they really don’t look their best.  The forecast was for a little blueness between 2 and 3 o’clock.  ‘A little’ was all I saw.  The following day dawned bright and blue, but I was elsewhere.

Visible from the house and by far the grandest sculpture in the grounds, the Atlas Fountain is beautiful.  The 3rd Earl of Carlisle, now interred within the Mausoleum, started the creation of the waterways which give the estate its character.  There are lakes on both sides of the house, and in Summer you might even go boating on the Great Lake.

The Atlas Fountain, with its patina of age

The Atlas Fountain, with its patina of age

I hope you enjoyed the walk, despite the dreary skies.  I did, but I’m pretty sure that I will be back to join a guided walk in the Spring, when the rhododendrons are in full bloom.

The Castle Howard website is full of information, including details of how to get there.  The photos show it at its glorious best.  Later in the week I’ll be taking you inside the house and I can promise you a lot more colour.

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You might need the kettle on for a ‘warm up’, then sit back and enjoy the walks I have to share. Details of how to join in are on my Jo’s Monday walks page.  Many thanks to all my contributors, far and wide.  It wouldn’t be the same without you.

Shall we start in paradise, with Jude?

Home and Away

Here’s a different, but still lovely, shoreline with Drake  :

Walk the line, the coastline

Next stop, Toronto, for a ‘mum’ show!  :

The sport of Mums

Then a hop ‘down the way’, to Dallas, to enjoy Amy’s beautiful photography  :

The Dallas Arboretum

It’s snowing on Gilly’s blog, but not in her world!  :

It may be December, but…

In Switzerland you have a good chance of snow!  And idyllic scenery- thanks Rosemay!

Weggis by the Lake

Did you ever think you’d get chance to visit Mount Krakatoa?  No- me neither!  Amazing, Noe!

Mount Krakatoa

And, just to put you all to shame, here’s my lovely mate, Cathy, in China.  Don’t miss it!

5 hour trip to the Longji Rice Terraces

Hope to see you all later in the week.  Have a good one!

Jo’s Monday walk : the marina

Shadows lengthen in Hartlepool marina

Shadows lengthen in Hartlepool marina

I’ve been scrolling back through my Monday walks, trying to decide where to take you next.  I still have a few, unshared, Algarve memories, but I think today we’ll just have a peaceful stroll around our marina.  I’m continuing my hassle free mood.  The Christmas rush will arrive soon enough.

Though the last few days here have been damp and dreary, last weekend the sunsets were liquid and beautiful.   Perfect for a stroll!  Dusk comes early at this time of year and, with the sun so low in the sky, the light and shade has a magic all its own.

The view from Jackson's Landing

The view from Jackson’s Landing

Looking down towards the marina

Looking down towards the marina

The colours reflect so well in the still water

The colours reflect so well in the calm water

The sun bounces from the flats to the water

The sun bounces off the apartments

And then fades!

And then fades!

You’ve probably noticed, I can always loiter by boats.  And with the sun descending into a liquid pool, the temptation is even greater.  I succumb every time!

The sun, lending highlights to the boats

The sun paints highlights on the boats

Caressing the red  lovingly

Lovingly caressing the red

And lighting up the water

Then sinking gently towards the water

Isn't it magical?

Magical, isn’t it?

I linger till the light's almost gone

I struggle to tear myself away!

Light is a deceptive thing because, as I look back, the boats appear still well lit.  I look towards the sea, and wonder if I might make it to the sea wall in the time remaining before sunset.

Looking back across the marina

Looking back across the marina

Beyond the lock gates, two overgrown, ramshackle piers reach out to meet their mate across the water.  There is a poignancy to them, with their neglected grassy tufts.  The new sea defense walls make them look very shabby, but it’s atmospheric out there, with the evening shadows.

Can you see the fishermen, huddled against the rocks?

Can you see the fishermen, huddled against the rocks?

The sun has almost set

A last dazzle of sunlight

A cycle path leads around the back of the apartment blocks, and back to Jackson’s landing, where we started out.  A smokey haze rests on the water as the final clouds drift up and away.

The clouds drift up and away

Dying light!

I hope you enjoyed my very local stroll this week.  No place like home?  I’ve had the saddest weekend and would like to extend huge thanks to my blogging friends.  They’re always there when I need them.  Spending time on this post helped a little to distract me from the sudden and tragic death of a dear friend and neighbour in the Algarve.

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If you’d like to join me on a walk, short or long, you’d be more than welcome.  The logo above will take you to my Jo’s Monday walks page.  Meanwhile, many thanks for all these great contributions.  Time to put the kettle on, and enjoy.

Jude’s having a great time in Australia!  Check this out  :

Dee Why Lagoon

Colline’s walk couldn’t be more different!  Brrrh!  🙂

A Walk through the Park

Drake’s a little early with his Christmas walk, but he’s off travelling soon  :

Early Christmas walk

Texan beauty is what we’ve come to expect from Amy.  You won’t be disappointed!

Enchanted Rock

Always nice to welcome someone new, especially on a waterfall walk  :

Handstands and Hiking

And loiter in some mysterious woods in Germany.  Thanks, Tobias!

Home Range II

Or you could go admiring clocks with Elena  :

Where is Solothurn?

You know Yvette’s always fun!  How about a train ride this week?

Triple Crossing Train Tracks

While Jill’s taking us where the trees are green  :

Eastwoodhill- a tree lover’s sanctuary

Have a great week of walking!  I hope your weather’s good.

Jo’s Monday walk : Nottingham Castle

Just what you'd expect from the entrance to a castle

Just what you’d expect from the entrance to an ancient castle

We’re not going to do too much walking in Nottingham this week.  Up to the castle to check out the view, of course, but after that I might treat you to a half in ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem’. It’s an interesting old place!

I know Nottingham quite well, because it’s my daughter’s home, but it’s years since I’ve been to the castle.  As in many parts of the country this year, there was a war-related exhibition- ‘Trent to Trenches’.  But first, we must climb up to the castle.  It’s not too steep and we can go slowly through the gardens, or even sit on a bench for a while.

Naturally, Robin's hanging out there!

Naturally, Robin’s hanging out there!

Once you reach Castle Rock, there’s a large viewing terrace with patio tables and chairs.  Another invitation to linger, with perhaps a pot of coffee and croissants.

The day I was there, we were constantly accosted by a swarm of ladybirds!  I have never seen the like.  Red and yellow ones, both, were on the tables and thronging the doorway to the museum.  I didn’t manage a photo because I was too busy rescuing them and guiding them on a better flight path.  I can only surmise the warm weather had brought them out to play.

The view from Castle Rock

The view from Castle Rock

The views are wide ranging

The views are expansive

Overlooking 'Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem' below.

Overlooking ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem’ below.

Time for a little history.  Nottingham Castle sits on a natural promontory, known as Castle Rock, with cliffs up to 40 metres high.  Back in the Middle Ages it was a major fortress and royal residence.  As all good castles are, it was strategically located, near to a crossing of the River Trent. Close to the royal hunting grounds at Tideswell and Sherwood, it once even had its own deer park.  Whilst Richard the Lionheart was away on his Third Crusade, it is thought that the castle was left derelict ,and was occupied by the Sheriff of Nottingham.  In the legends of Robin Hood, the castle often features in showdowns between the Sheriff and this popular outlaw.

Sadly the castle went into decline, and was largely demolished in 1649.  A mansion was built on the site, but this was burnt out by rioters in 1831.  The story of this and much of the castle’s intriguing history is told in the Castle Museum, opened in 1878- the first municipal art gallery in the UK outside of London.  Just before we step inside, let’s admire the elegant pebble mosaics set into the courtyard.

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I don’t intend to linger too long in the museum.  We each have our own pace and interests.  Let me just give you a small sample of what you might find inside.

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Several galleries were given over to the exhibition, documenting life in Nottinghamshire during the wars.  Even in black and white I found many of the images harrowing, and moved swiftly downstairs to learn of the castle’s history.  I won’t spoil it for you by giving away too many details but it is an atmospheric space, and a story well told.

You must be about ready for that half I promised you?  We’ll wander down the hill, past the place that was once a thriving Lace Market.  ‘Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem‘, dating back to 1189, must be one of the most unusual pubs I’ve ever been in.  It is set into the cliff face and is famous for its caves.  The rooms are unusual shapes, some with holes in the ceiling.  There was once a brewery in the lower caverns and there’s a route from there up into Nottingham Castle.  You can actually book a tour of the cellars, which are part of Nottingham’s extensive cave network. Affectionately known as ‘The Trip’, the name derives from a ‘trip’, meaning a stop or resting place on a journey.

The former Lace Market

The former Lace Market

But look!  A friendly face.  Cheers, Lisa!

But look! A friendly face. Cheers, Lisa!

As always, I have included links for those who would like more information, or might be near enough to visit.  I hope you enjoyed meandering around Nottingham Castle with me.  Not too strenuous, was it?

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I’m ready to put the kettle on now and enjoy the great contributions I’ve received to Jo’s Monday walk this week.  If you have a walk you’d like to share, do please join in.  For details, just click on the link or on my logo.  Many thanks to all my walkers this week.

Firstly, Noe takes us back to South Sulawesi.  The scenery is quite amazing!  :

West coast of Gusung Island 2

And for something completely different, how about Glasgow Necropolis, with Violet Sky  :

City of the Dead

Amy has saved us some delicious remnants of Autumn foliage  :

Lost Maples

While Drake is busy, just being himself, in Liverpool  :

Walking Sculptures

And, all the way from Australia, we have Jude joining us again.  A bit special!  :

A walk in the Blue Mountains

That’s it till next Monday.  Have a great week and happy walking to you all!

Jo’s Monday walk : São Brás circular

Fancy living in a windmill?

Fancy living in a windmill?

Enough of nostalgia!  I think we’ll do one last Algarve walk before I get stuck into a British winter. This one’s a country walk, led for me by Georgie, a lovely lady who lives in the inland village of São Brás de Alportel.  If you’re ever in the Algarve at Easter, this village hosts a beautiful parade through lavender strewn, cobbled streets.  It’s a treat for all the senses.

It was a glorious morning when we set out, but I was informed there was a 40% chance of rain! We had driven up above the village to the site of the former pousada, with wonderful, wide-ranging views all around.

Looking out to the surrounding hills

Looking out to the surrounding hills

It was soon obvious we were heading for a windmill

It was soon obvious we were heading to a windmill

This tree seems to have a sense of humour!

This tree seems to have a sense of humour!

We had already discussed the fact that on breezy days, the wind whistles around the hilltops. Someone who had once stayed in the pousada recollected that the shutters had banged and rattled ferociously throughout the night.  No sign or sound of that today, but weather up in the hills can change frequently.

A windmill conversion should not have been surprising

A windmill conversion, ready to occupy

Starting at so high a point, it was fairly obvious that we would be going down and then, at some future point, back up again.  Georgie assured us that, taking your time, it wasn’t especially taxing.  The cobbled path gave way to a rough track, and we paused frequently to take notice of our surrounds.  Soon we came to a fonte or spring, used for laundry purposes in former times.

The trail follows a stream and reed beds before climbing up into the hills.  In Spring these would be carpeted with cistus and wild flowers.

Did I mention changeable weather?

Did I mention changeable weather?

The blue is rapidly disappearing from the sky!

The blue is rapidly disappearing from the sky!

A couple of years ago forest fires ravaged the gullies around here, and evidence of the burnt out trees was starkly visible.  Nature is quick to regenerate and we were more concerned with the clouds that seemed to have zipped in from nowhere.  A few spits and spots of rain were laughed off as we hastened towards our coffee stop.

What a treat this little place was!  Tesouros da Serra means ‘treasures of the sierra’. Nobody was arguing! The produce on display looked delicious, but we knew that in a short while we would have a lunch stop.  We settled for sharing some alfarroba biscuits, but made a mental note to come back another day.

One of the really delightful things about this cafe, in an out of the way spot at the back of São Brás, was its garden. Not widely accessible to the public, when Georgie asked if we might see the olive tree, claimed to be 2000 years old, we were assured that we could go in.

The sun was shining brightly again and we turned right along a path that led us through a forest of cork oaks.  Huge gnarled creatures, standing their ground as they had for generations. Cradled beneath them lay extraordinary fungi.

Coming out of the woods, we were back on the trail up to the pousada, which didn’t seem anything like as steep as expected.  Maybe it was the prospect of lunch!  I’ll give you a little peek in our restaurant, shall I?  ‘O Marques’ is in Gralheira, on the back road from São Brás to Loule.

I haven’t fully captured the beauty of this area.  Georgie assured me that in Spring it is quite magical, and I have no cause to disagree.  There are signboards along the way, giving details of the flora and fauna, and if you look at my links you will find more.  To find the pousada, take the N2 signed Alportel from the village and head to the top of the hill.  The cobbled path is off on your right, just after a bend in the road.  The distance covered was around 6 miles and took us 3 hours, including our half hour coffee stop.

I owe huge thanks to Georgie for guiding this walk and for being such good company.

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Time to draw breath, put that kettle on, and see where our walkers have got to this week.  As always, I’m really thrilled with all the contributions.  For details of how to join me, click on the logo above.  Many thanks to you all!

First up, Violet Sky treats us to some fascinating family history in a village in Fife  :

‘Muchty

Drake has a bit of a theme going on with his Monday walks.  Have you noticed?

Do you wanna dance?

Join Amy in a watery green world in Texas.  You may be surprised at the scenery.  I was!

Cibolo Nature Centre

Rarely, if ever, have I seen anywhere more beautiful than the beaches Noe shares in South Sulawesi  :

West Coast of Gusung Island

But just to prove that English beaches can hold their own, Suzanne’s been to St. Ives  :

St. Ives, Cornwall- beaches, boats and the Old Green Door

Such a treat I have for you next!  A magic carpet ride  🙂  If you don’t know Lisa, you must!

Magic Carpet Airlines Special- for Subscribers only

Stay on the carpet and we’ll fly to the Antipodes to join Meg!  :

The River Road 9- grandeur and a  river crossing

And Pauline is ‘stamping about’, just down the road!  :

Rediscovering my stamping ground

Tobias is here with some lovely Hamburg curves and woods.  Say hello, won’t you?  :

Downtown strolls

Home Range

And in a last mad scramble, Shan has made it!

New York State Museum

Fantastic times, all round!  I hope you enjoy reading these as much as I enjoy the sharing.  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Algar Seco

Algar Seco

Algar Seco

Going back to places isn’t always such a good idea, but in this instance it definitely paid off.  It must be 10 years since I first set foot in Carvoeiro. The location, possessively hugging a small cove, fishing boats pulled up on shore for safety, was always idyllic.  Unfortunately too many people had discovered its charms.  Parking was something of a nightmare, and the overall impression was definitely ‘tacky’.

I’m not one to give up on a place so easily, and I felt I owed it a second chance.  As it happened, it provided the perfect location for my November birthday.  Crowds weren’t an issue and some of the parking problems appeared to have been solved.  The ‘tacky’ aspect is still there, but  the spectacular scenery of the surrounding coast is justifiably a magnet.  ‘High end’ villas and smart restaurants have moved in.  Best of all, a beautiful new boardwalk has been installed along the cliff top east of town, making a walk to Algar Seco pure exhilaration.

The boardwalk, heading towards Carvoeira

The boardwalk, heading towards Carvoeiro

Magnificent, isn’t it?  I was totally unprepared for the sight, but so often it seems to me that the Algarve ‘gets it right’.  The cliff tops are subject to erosion and the boardwalk helps to protect them from the curious, while enabling safe and easy access to their dramatic beauty.

You can see the frailty of the rocks

You can see the frailty of the rocks

Algar Seco is the name given to a rock formation carved into the cliffs by erosion and the action of the waves.  Steps lead down into a natural amphitheatre, where the fit and sure-footed can view at close quarters how the sea seductively sculpts the shore.

I am not known for my affinity with goats, and wearing smart sandals was perhaps a mistake.  A squidgy yellow puddle wasn’t exactly what they were designed for, but they survived.  Wet wipes are a wonderful invention, aren’t they?

The scenery was worth it!

I thought the scenery was worth it!

Especially from inside the caves

Especially from inside the caves

Amazing to be so close to nature

Amazing to be so close to nature

Even if a little scary

Safer on the boardwalk!

But much safer up on the boardwalk!

Now let’s follow the boardwalk towards Carvoeiro.  It isn’t very far and the views will keep you enthralled.  There are benches set in at intervals if you want to simply sit and feast your eyes. Looking back you have the beach of Marinha, with Benagil’s tiny cove beyond.  Ahead , an extravaganza of coast!  Soon you arrive at Capela da Nossa Senhora da Encarnacao’s so pretty chapel.

The church square

The church square

With a pretty roof

With a pretty roof

Affording calm views to sea

Affording calm views to sea

Beyond this, the road starts to dip into the cove which is Praia da Carvoeiro. The sea wall is planted with hardy flowers but the chances are you won’t be able to take your eyes off the bay.

Determined to bloom in the salt air

Determined to bloom in the salt air!

Just a hint at the beach below you

Just a hint at the beach below you

Invariably there will be a couple of boats, drawn up well away from the clutches of the sea.  And a burst of colour in the houses at shoreline.

Happy to be stranded!

Happy to be stranded!

How about this for 'beachfront'?

How about this for ‘beachfront’?

But you know that what will always lure me on is the thrash of the waves on the shore.  I cannot wait to get close!  Just a quick paddle!

Too close, sometimes!

Too close, sometimes!

But water like this is hard to resist!

But water like this is hard to resist!

After a play on the beach (yes, the wet bum incident, but the camera was safe!) and a few more shell shots, I opted to climb Rua da Paraiso.  I just had to see what ‘Paradise Beach’ offered.  The views down into the bay are equally lovely and you can complete a circuit which brings you back into the centre.  There are only two main streets, side by side, leading to the beach (and away, if you’re a driver).  Algar Seco is clearly signed, along the coast road and within the town, if you have left your car at the eastern end, as we did.

Thank you all for your patience.  I’ve struggled mightily this weekend but, in the week ahead, hope to get ‘back on track’.  As always I have some wonderful shares for you, so let’s get that kettle on and go armchair walking!

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First we’re off to Otatara Beach in New Zealand, with Jill  :

All Soul’s Day wander at Otatara PA

Then flying straight on to the States and the Hudson River :

Fort Lee Historic Park

A truly delightful Halloween walk next, with Colline.  I found some little ‘trick or treaters’ in the Algarve too.  Must show you sometime!

A Halloween Walk

Lamb burger anybody?  Then you can walk it off, with Yvette  :

Burger, Bach and a walk

Lovely Noe showed me another little piece of village life in South Sulawesi.  Don’t miss it!

The old village of Bitombang

Tobias is here from Hamburg!  A place I know little of, and am enjoying through his eyes  :

The steep approach to Baumwall

Of course, there’d be no Monday walk without Drake!  He always manages to stir nostalgia in me  :

Whistle down the Wind

And when there’s a walk from Tish Farrell, you know you’re in for a treat  :

Rambling Tales, My Little Pony, windmills, Olympian dreams

If Pauline ever invites you for a walk in her garden, say ‘yes’ immediately.  It’s fabulous!  :

Come walk with me in the garden

Nurturing and looking after swans sounds like a grand job, doesn’t it?  Sherri is at a swannery this week  :

A walk with swans

No Jude, you might have noticed?  She has her hands full of grandson in Australia.  Happy days!  I owe so many thanks to my contributors.  You have made my Mondays very special.  I hope I haven’t missed anybody this week?  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Along the shore

Can you guess where?

Can you guess where?

I wasn’t sure what to post for this week’s walk.  I haven’t yet taken you to Nottingham and I know that many of you like castles and history.  But when this is published, I will be in the Algarve, and hopefully on my way to a Monday walk.  It seemed only right to take you along.

My favouurite kind of shell

My favourite kind of shell

The river beach on Tavira Island is rich with this type of delicate beauty.  It never ceases to amaze me that, no matter how many are taken home, there are always more to discover.  Come with me on a simple stroll along the beach and see what we can find.

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When you ride across to the ilha on the ferry, the river beach is where you land.  Often enough I loiter here.  There’s always a passing boat to wave at or admire.  I like to follow the shoreline looking for ‘treasure’.  There is a greater variety of shells on this side of the island, which seldom gets dashed by the Atlantic waves.

Looking back at Tavira from the river beach

Looking back at Tavira from the river beach

Meandering

Meandering

When I tire of looking, I head over the ilha to the main beach.  There are a number of sandy trails crossing the island- some easier to follow than others.  I sometimes get a little disoriented and wish I’d stayed with the main path, but eventually the sea always appears on the horizon.

Am I nearly there yet?

Am I nearly there yet?

At last!

At last!

Depending how hot the day, I may just choose to collapse here for a little while.  Down on the beach, someone has been creative with shells and two fish survey the world, just a little wearily. It is rather a warm spot to be out of the water!

Creative with shells

Creative with shells

Leaving behind the crazy fish, I simply have to kick off my flipflops and dip my toes in the surf. I know I’ve said it before but this beach really does stretch for miles.  You have the choice of simply returning to the river beach by following the sea wall, or you can walk along the beach till you’re ready to flop.  I’m sure you can guess which I’m inclined to do.

Fancy a paddle by the lighthouse?

A bit of a splash by the lighthouse?

The beach bar at Barril acts as a powerful incentive.  And there’s the beautiful Anchor Graveyard. Because sunset comes earlier at this time of year, this trip I may just manage those sunset images I’ve always coveted.  For now, I’ll leave you with a gallery I took last time I was here.  I think you can find your own way home?  See you there!

I’ll be back in the UK for next week’s walk.  Maybe we’ll do Nottingham, but we’ll definitely be walking somewhere.  I hope that you’ll join me.  If you have a walk that you’d like to share, it would be great if you could link to me, or leave a link to your post in my comments.  The details are on my  Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Time to share this week’s walks.  Kettle on and feet up!  Many thanks to all my contributors.

Drake has me singing again as I stroll alongside him  :

Here, There and Everywhere 

High fashion and shoes this week with Violet Sky  :

Shows who you are

Enjoy a change of pace and place with Cardinal  :

Berlin Street 0741

Sharing comes naturally to Amy.  Do join her and her delightful ducks  :

Jo’s Monday walk

A very special garden from Jude.  Enjoy it because it’s her last before she’s off to Australia!

Garden Portrait : Abbotsbury sub-tropical gardens

Dear Meg takes us to the Australian bush, on a serene walk with nature  :

The river road 4

Noe is back this week, playing with the children on their island paradise  :

Amazing journey to Rajuni Kiddi Island

Brilliant, aren’t they?  I hope you enjoyed them all as much as I did.  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : a Durham footpath

 

Reflected beauty

Interesting reflections

Often I walk with company, and that’s very nice, but occasionally I get to do a bit of wandering on my own- just me and the camera.  Nobody tapping their toes impatiently while I explore all the angles- ‘what IS she looking at?’  You might know the feeling.  My husband travels quite a lot locally, visiting customers, and sometimes I go along ‘for the ride’.  Durham is a favourite place.

The River Wear twines itself through the city, towing me along behind it.  My sense of direction is abysmal but, with a river to hold on to, I stand a fighting chance.  A bright Autumnal day was just the excuse I needed for an unfettered wander.  I’ll let you look over my shoulder, shall I?

The river bank is a little overgrown in places

The river bank is a little overgrown in places

I’m starting off at Shincliffe Bridge, by “The Rose Tree” pub, on the A177 road, on the outskirts of Durham.  There’s a path either side of the bridge and I linger for a while, contemplating which direction to take.  I cross over the bridge and am lured by a footpath that I don’t know.  It follows the river so there’s a good chance I’ll end up in the centre of Durham.

I don’t get very far when I spot some wildflowers by the path.  The sun is strong for October so I spend some time trying to get a shot that I like.  I catch curious looks from the occasional jogger. Two ladies, strolling, confirm that I can cross over a bridge further along.  Subsidence and falling trees has closed some of the footpath off, but I already knew this.

Sycamore wings

Sycamore wings

This will have to do!

This will have to do!

After a while I come to the bridge which I must cross over.  Now I’m on more familiar territory. There’s a large modern sports facility here, used sometimes for football training by Hartlepool FC. (ssh, sensitive subject- no comments please!)

Approaching the bridge

Approaching the bridge

The treads are made of logs

The treads are made of logs

Looking back across the river

Looking back across the river

Safely over the bridge, the path follows the river on the other bank, through dappled leafy shade. Frequent splashes of oars can be heard as the local rowing teams spin and twirl in the water, to the harsh calls of the cox.  The odd, solitary oarsman glides past too.

I cross over a path which leads to the boat club (members only), and shortcut across a field strewn with the remnants of Autumn.  The wider expanse of river beckons.

Lingering Autumn

Lingering Autumn

The river widens at this point

The river widens at this point, heading towards Durham centre

The bandstand

The bandstand

I take a seat in the bandstand.  I have been carrying with me, since my visit to Nottingham, a postcard destined for Viveka in Sweden.  I exchanged addresses with this lovely lady some time ago, and now I receive ‘surprises’ in the post. (one of which was a Paris t-shirt in black and gold! I don’t know anyone more generous than Viveka)  I have always loved postcards and having one land on my doormat gladdens my heart. Now it’s my turn to reciprocate.  There’s a post office in town and what nicer place to sit and write?

On towards the centre and another bridge

Along the riverbank to yet another bridge!

Durham has such a pretty centre

Durham Castle, beautifully framed

The path follows the river to the bridge with the green railings, shown above. (Baths Bridge) I cross over, approaching the boat hire beneath Elvet Bridge.  This is a popular spot and, in Summer, paintings of the castle and many other Durham views adorn the nearby walls. You might want to pause here for something to eat, or a row on the river.  There are plenty of places to eat in Durham, catering to all tastes and wallets.

I love the boat names

I pause to admire all the boat names

Especially Shirley

Especially Shirley!

I’m going to continue into the centre, to post my card.  Before I go, I’d better give you instructions on how to get back to the start point, hadn’t I?

Climb the steps up onto Elvet Bridge and cross over it.  Turn right onto New Elvet, passing the Royal County Hotel, and continue uphill to Hallgarth St. Following Hallgarth will bring you to a roundabout with a junction signed A177.  About 15 minute’s walk in this direction will bring you back to Shincliffe Bridge, where I began.  I hope you enjoyed our wander.

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Next Monday I will be in the Algarve, but I intend to schedule a walk, just so you don’t forget me. I can’t guarantee that I will be able to respond to your comments, as this will necessitate a visit to an internet cafe.  Not something I often do, but Anazu does have a connection.  Please just link to my post as usual, if you have a walk to share. My Jo’s Monday walk page will give you the details, and I will respond to you as soon as I possibly can.  Meantime, let’s put that kettle on and settle in for some more great reads.

I don’t receive many walks from South Sulawesi!  Many thanks for this treat, and welcome Noe  :

Walking around Tinabo Island

Jerusalem and Cardinal seem to go together.  This is very beautiful night photography  :

Jerusalem

Combine good company with superb night time shots in Bologna, with Paula  :

Music and lights of Bologna

There are lots of things that Drake knows.  How to entertain has always been one of them  :

Knowing its Autumn

Fall in Canada!  Wouldn’t you love to share it with Colline?  :

Familiar Streets

Climbing hills and hopping over stiles in Dorset.  Can this really be Jude?  :

Pilsdon Pen

More beautiful Autumn colour and a little shared knowledge, from Violet Sky  :

A tree walk

Close up and personal with Milkweed Bugs?  I don’t like bugs much, but I do love Amy’s company

Milkweed Bug walk

And finally, stop off at the market on the way to the beach with Pauline.  You may need a sunhat!

A walk along beautiful Burleigh Beach

I hope you enjoy these walks as much as I did.  Many thanks to all my lovely contributors. Happy walking!  See you soon.