Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Souter Lighthouse

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My part of the north east coast of England is littered with lighthouses!  The jagged coastline traditionally needed the big guys to flash a warning to passing ships.  Times have changed, but the coastline remains as rugged as ever.

Souter Lighthouse was the first in the world to be designed and built specifically to use alternating electric current.  The lighthouse opened in 1871, and was decommissioned in 1988.  It continued as a radio navigation beacon until 1999, when it was finally closed. Today the National Trust own the property and open it to the public.

It’s only a couple of weeks since I was at Roker lighthouse, on a properly murky day.  This walk heads north from there, along the cliffs to the magnificent lighthouse at Souter.  There’s a long promenade backing the fine stretch of beach, perfect for galloping horses.  A straggle of charming houses follow the bay.  I’m tempted to take a seat.

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Did you spot the fish restaurant sign?  Latimers boast smoked haddock, leek and potato pasties.  Noted, for later.  A sign on the cliff top claims 6 and three-quarter miles to the Tyne Ferry.  We won’t be going that far.  The smooth expanse of beach left behind, below us rocks scatter the shoreline. Fascinating grooves and grottoes hug the cliff’s base.  The potential for shipwreck is easy to see.

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Ahead, in the grass, a stone circle has been formed, not unlike a maze.  I don’t understand its significance, but there are old military bunkers nearby. The track is a little slippy from recent rain and, peering at the rock formations below, I lose my footing.  No damage done!  But, looking at the seat of my jeans, I realise that I’m not quite presentable enough for a restaurant.  I hope you weren’t looking forward to that pastie.

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My favourite part of the walk lies ahead.  The stacks teeter at the water’s edge, harbouring only gulls on lookout duty.  A first glimpse of Souter’s flamboyant red appears on the horizon.  Nearing, I can see the indentations in the rock face, and the stranded islets, clinging to shore.

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And then the cove known as The Wherry.  In former times there was a Lad’s Wherry and a Lassie’s Wherry, for fishing expeditions and picnics in the bay.  A central rock split the bay in two.  Nowadays, in part due to erosion, the sea separates the rock from the shoreline at high tide.

Souter lighthouse is about 3 miles south of the River Tyne.  Beyond the river, 7 miles to the north, St. Mary’s lighthouse at Whitley Bay is a sister Victorian lighthouse to Souter.  With good visibility, the one can be seen from the top of the other.

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I love the sound of a foghorn but, were I married to a mariner, the sound would fill me with dread.  The Souter foghorn has seen several incarnations, and is still occasionally sounded on special event days at the lighthouse.

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Souter lighthouse was revolutionary.  Quoting from Wikipedia, “the 800,000 candle power light was generated using carbon arcs and not an incandescent light bulb, and could be seen for up to 26 miles.  In addition to the main light a red/white sector light shone from a window in the tower below the lantern, to highlight hazardous rocks to the south; it was powered using light diverted (through a set of mirrors and lenses) from the landward side of the main arc lamp.”  As Souter was never automated, it remains pretty much in its original operational state.  I thought that this might make a good subject for Paula’s Traces of the Past.

The grassed area north of Souter was once a thriving mining community of 700 people.  It was completely demolished after the mine closure in 1968, and the population rehoused in new council housing in Whitburn.  A brief history of Souter can be found on the National Trust website, along with details of opening times and how to get there.

Now I know that you will be worrying about your stomach by now.  Latimers having been ruled out, I’m glad to inform you that the lighthouse has its own very pleasant cafe.  Would you like to try a ‘Singing hinnie’?  A warm griddle scone.

Sadly I cannot take you into the lighthouse.  It was half term on my visit and very busy, I’m pleased to say.  Maybe another time?  You might also like my Roker Pier walk.  I’m up to my second cup of coffee this morning, after a spectacular sunrise. Please put the kettle on and join me in a visit to some great blogs.walking logo

Many thanks to all of you who contributed this week.  I’m really happy you can still find time to join me.  For any newcomers, you can find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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Benches or snow?  Which is it to be?  Let’s start with a Gallivant in the woods!

Cashel Forest

I’ve never been to Mexico, but Jackie’s making up for me.  Puerto Vallarta this week :

Sunday Photo and Monday Walk

Amy finds the perfect bench for Jude, while I just laze on the beach!

Monday Walk : A Beach Walk and February Garden : Monochrome

I was blissfully happy with Drake this week, even wearing my gloves!

Cool art in winter mood

Turns out I couldn’t even say this correctly, but now I’ve had lessons from Smidge :

Culross, Fife

I just about managed to avoid getting splashed by Debbie this week :

Broadstairs to Margate : an easy coastal walk

Or absolutely drowned by Jaspa!

Rough Seas Off Land’s End, Cornwall

Wild water doesn’t seem to stop life from happening Down Under, with Pauline and Jack :

Amazing sights at the beach

Finishing with spectacular beauty in Hawaii!  I’ve told Carol I’m green  🙂

Eyeing the Needle

Thanks again, everyone!  I love having your company.  Have a great week!  If you’re needing some travel inspiration, pop over to Monday Escapes. See you there!

Jo’s Monday walk : Rocha da Pena

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Some walks are a really hard act to follow.  After last week’s Almond Blossom Trail, in blissful sunshine, I was really looking forward to taking you to the heights of Rocha da Pena.  I envisioned the landscape, dropping away below me, and my eyes gazing far out to sea. Unfortunately, the dismal cloud wrapped around the rock had other ideas.  Every day in the Algarve cannot be paradise, can it?  But what I can offer you is good company, some wonderful plant species, and… oh, yes- cake!  What’s a little drizzle between friends?

The drive out into the Algarve countryside is beautiful in itself.  A little challenging, and you do have to like hairpin bends.  This is another walk that features in the Walking Trails in the Algarve, (p.72) and once you arrive the signage is good.  The walk begins beside a cafe, Bar das Grutas, and a strong coffee is just the thing to set you up.  Don’t expect a smile from the proprietor, however.  Or maybe it was just the weather!  Taking a look at those clouds, I think we’d better get going!

It’s uphill, of course, but not too steep, and there’s plenty to hold your interest.  Plants nestle in unsuspected places.  I’m walking with a group and every now and then a voice sings out ‘don’t miss this one!’  I’m being teased a little, but I like it.  The challenge is to keep up with the group, yet still record my individual delights.

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There are a few signboards, pointing out things of interest, and I’m reminded of the fires that swept this mountain range, soon after we’d bought our Algarve home.  Driving along the coast, or even down on the beach, a black pall of smoke could be seen on the horizon.  It must have been terrifying to be up here, as the fires raged for 4 days, in 2004.  Hard to imagine on this moist day, when so much has renewed and revitalised.

I’m soon on the hunt for the wild bee orchids which, I discover, like this predominantly calcareous outcrop.  I can’t be cross with the weather when I learn that late January/early February is the perfect time to see them, rain or shine.  The plateau rises to a height of 479 metres at Talefe, which roughly translates as ‘trig point’.  All this richness and diversity has led to the Rocha being a ‘Special Protected Area’, by law.

The boards also refer to narcissus calcicola, which I take to be a simple daffodil. I’m wildly excited when I come upon a carpet of these tiny beauties, so much smaller than any I have seen before.  I think I probably have more than one variety here.

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Up on the heights, with the daffodils, lie the remains of a defensive stone wall, believed to date back to the Iron Age.  It’s been attributed to Celtic people who lived on the Iberian peninsula in pre-Roman times. (6th-1st century BC)

There are caves you can explore, currently inhabited by two locally endangered species of bat.  The largest cave, known as ‘Moor’s Grotto’, was used as a final desperate refuge in the 13th century, according to legend.  The Almohad Moors tried to hide there, before being slain by the Portuguese troops of King Afonso III.

After a speck or two of drizzle, a tantalising glimpse of hazy sunlight appears in the distance, as we drop back down the trail.  I look wistfully towards the open door of an unlikely ‘Mini Museum’ in the village of Penina, quietly going about it’s business.  But my walking friends have lunch firmly in mind.  No loitering allowed!  I guess I’ll have to come back, on a sunnier day, and perhaps do the walk in reverse.

If you’re thinking you’ve seen that door before somewhere, it was one of many in Life is full of choices.  Within a matter of minutes we’re back to our start point, and not a moment too soon as the skies open.  The Bar das Grutas supplies food, but we hop into cars and head for the village of São Romão, near São Bras de Alportel, where we have a reservation.  A warm welcome awaits us at Cafe Correia.  And cake, of course!

I’m including a link to an excellent website, Walk Algarve, where you will find full details of the geology, and flora and fauna to be found at Rocha da Pena, with a little more history.  And now, that cake’s made me thirsty.  Time to put the kettle on.

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Thanks everybody for keeping me company on my walks, and for entertaining me with yours.  I hope you enjoyed this one and, if you have a walk you’d like to share, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walks page.  Just click on the logo above.

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I’m not a huge fan of snow but if anything could persuade me… Anabel just might :

Canadian Rockies : Lake Louise

And Colline gave it a good try!  Canada definitely seems to be the place for it :

A Walk in the Snow

Come over to the ‘dark side’ with Drake?  He does it beautifully!

Abandoned walk

Congratulate Jesh?  She deserves it!

A Short Diversion

Me and Jackie, still singing, down Mexico way!  And why wouldn’t we?

Monday walk : Guadalajara

Jaspa does go to some fascinating places!  I’d really like to visit this one :

The Templar Tunnels of Acre, Israel 

A little summertime warmth, Down Under, with Rosemay would be good too :

The French Connection : Bunker Bay

Geoff and his dog go bounding through the sand dunes!

Life’s a Beach#glorioussuffolk 

While Snowdon Student takes a break from his studies to head for the hills again :

Relaxing by Llyn Idwal

Jude is busy getting ready to move to Cornwall, but still found time to share.  That’s a friend for you!

Scrobbesbyrig/Shrewsbury : Town Trail Part 1 

It looks a bit busy in Macau, for me.  Anyone been there?  Thanks, Lee Ann!

A stroll through the Old Town of Macau

Pauline gave me an early morning nudge this morning!

Early morning beach walk

I’m well and truly re-acclimatised to the UK again.  Not sure where to take you next week, but I’m pretty sure we’ll be walking somewhere.  Many thanks again, and I hope you all have a great week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Amendoeira (Almond) Trail

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True sign of Spring, and a sight to gladden the heart- almond blossom.  This is what the Algarve in February means to me, though the sky may not always be so blue. (but that’s next week’s walk)  Again I’m taking you up into the hills, and you’ll need a map to follow. Our start point is the village of Cruz de Alta Mora, inland from the River Guadiana.  The road dips and sways through unheard of villages.  There are occasional bus stops along the way, but nary a person waiting.  Does this look like an inviting place to start a walk?

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I rather thought so.  The sign pointed towards the village of Soalheira, and a trail led off through the welcoming carpet of false yellowhead.

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You might have noticed a tendency I have to find walks with hills in them?  The walking guide I was using gives an indication of the ‘ups and downs’, and I always look to see how strenuous it might become. (but then often do the walk anyway, if it’s not too long)  In this case the steepest incline comes right at the end of the walk.  One of the signboards in the village of Alta Mora described the trail as the way of the cabra Algarvia– the Algarvean Goat- so I shouldn’t have been at all surprised to come upon a pen full of them.

Did you spot the ruined windmill on the top of the hill?  Or the ginger cat in that sparse grass? ( you can click on the photo to make it easier)  I was headed upwards, but initially it wasn’t too steep.  If you wanted the view from the top, that comes at a cost…

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And then it’s far behind you, and you can see the next village ahead.  Looking back at my photos I can see I got a little carried away on this walk, but it was quite hard not to.  Aside from the blossom, I am enamoured of the wild cistus.  I find this countryside almost impossible not to love.

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After Caldeirao, the trail idles through the greenest of valleys, then rises somewhat surprisingly to a tarmac road.  There, nestled in the landscape and unmentioned in the guide, a tiny cafe awaits.  This is the point at which all thoughts of walking might well disappear out of the window.  Or, more appropriately, off the enticing balcony.  Laundry dangles over the valley below.  The scene is only despoiled by a cacophony of compounded dogs.  A puppy in the cafe garden twitches its nose at visitors, while Mum snoozes determinedly in the sun.

I know that many of you will be disappointed at the non-appearance of cake.  I will humbly make amends in my next walk.  For now, I need to head on to the idyllic, though partially abandoned, villages of Funchosa em Cima and de Baixo. (upper and lower)

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It’s a steep climb back out of the valley and then roll down into the next, Ribeira do Beliche.  I spot a donkey in a courtyard, his back firmly turned to me.  I edge closer, but pause when my husband reminds me they do a wicked back kick.  A shot under cover of planters will have to do!

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There are river crossings to be made.  A few uneven stones straddle the water, and I end up with one wet foot.  No matter- it’s a warm day. Crouched by the side of the water, I spot some tiny delicate orchids.  Funny how similar they are to some I’ve seen on the cliffs at home.  Alas, my shots are horribly blurred, so I’ll simply tell you that next week I have a different orchid, which I found very exciting.

I cross the stream a second time, a little more successfully, and then begins that last, long slog up the hill, which leads, eventually, back to our start point.   Not for the feint hearted!  You don’t want to watch me, so I’ll end with a delicacy of blossom.  Is it ever possible to have too much?

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Phew!  I have to say I’m rather tired after all that, and just have the energy to point you towards Walking Trails in the Algarve, where this walk appears, right near the end, at p. 144.   Full details of how to get there are given in the guide.  And now, the kettle on, I think! 

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Thank you all for your tolerance while I was away.  I tried to keep up as best I could, but managed to miss a few of you.  Amends made here, I hope. Once again I have some wonderful contributions.  If you possibly can, please find the time to read them.  And maybe even join me on a walk next week?  Shorter, I promise!  Details on Jo’s Monday walk page or the logo above.

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Drake’s timing was simply wonderful!

Hit the road

Tobias always makes such good use of his ‘props’  :

Walk on Beach

Debbie just can’t resist a shot or two on the way to work!  Or anywhere, really…

Misty Walk Along the Thames

Fancy making your own Tequila?  You just need blue agave plants!  Cheers, Jackie!

Monday Walk : Tequila, Mexico

Amy takes us back to visit the exotic Ringling home.  What a beauty!

Monday Walk : Ca’ d’Zan

The national parks in the States look larger than life, don’t they?  I’d love to visit!

Arches National Park, Utah

Somewhere else I wouldn’t mind to try- Hawaii!  Have a wander with Carol :

A Walk Along Front Street

Waking to snow is not my idea of fun, but in the Rockies you’d expect it, and Anabel looks pleased :

Canadian Rockies : Num-ti-jah Lodge

My daughter spent her birthday and 3rd wedding anniversary in Edinburgh, and fully endorses Smidge’s recommendations :

Edinburgh ‘must do’ : Edinburgh Castle

Gilly would like my goats, wouldn’t she?  Her dogs might not be so keen :

Walking the Goat to the Bowling Green

And Jill just scraped in, in the early hours of this morning.  I haven’t even had time to read it yet, but I will!

Biking the shores of Inle

I woke to snow this morning, looking oh, so pretty, outside my window.  I haven’t had time to ‘enjoy’ it yet, but hopefully?  Once again, my thanks to all.  For those of you I saw on Saturday, Vincent and Flavia were fabulous!  Have a great week, and see you soon.

 

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : São Lourenço Trail

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Nothing special this week.  Just a short walk in the Algarve and a reminder that I will not be here to post a walk next week.  I probably won’t have time to respond to many of you before I go, either, so I’ll have to crave your indulgence.  You know I’ll catch you up when I’m back, don’t you?

In all honesty, I was a little disappointed in this section of the São Lourenço Trail but there were compensations.  It borders affluent Quinta do Lago, and appears to be used largely by joggers and cyclists, between rounds of golf.  I approached the trail from the beach, crossing over the salt flats via the Ponte de Ancao, an extremely long foot bridge, easily visible when you fly over the Algarve.

The last time I was in this neighbourhood I had turned left after the bridge, and been astounded at the beauty of the saltwater lake stretching before me. So I had high hopes on my return.  A right turn after the bridge had me skirting the edge of a golf course, the salt marsh squidging at my toes. The tide was out, but it was obvious that when it came in, some of the trail would be underwater and a little paddling might be required.  A good reason not to loiter, but it was not very obvious to me which was the trail.

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It was immediately apparent that I should have stuck close to the golf course, on a much more beaten track.  I retraced my steps and headed into a stand of pines.  Beyond them, a small lake was overlooked by a two-storey bird hide.

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I spent a little while in the bird hide, enjoying the antics of the waterfowl, but I forgot to look for the two species of native terrapin. Azure-winged magpie are a common enough sight in Portuguese woods.  The trail ends at some rather unprepossessing Roman ruins, former salting tanks used for the preservation of fish.  A signboard describes the process.

Time to retrace my steps the brief distance back to the bridge, the tide not having advanced too far.  It was a warm day for late November and I had neglected to bring water.  The price of my folly was high.  I did say that this was wealthy Quinta do Lago, didn’t I? The cost of my glass of white at Gigi’s bar made me wince, but there was nowhere else in sight.  I stayed as long as possible to gain maximum value from the view.

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This is walk no. 42 from Walking Trails in the Algarve, a book I’ve used previously.  Remember Carrapateira?  Full details of how to get there, complete with maps, are shown in the guide.

And that’s it from me.  I’m publishing this a little early to give me a head start, but I hope you’ll still put the kettle on and settle in for a good read.

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As always, huge thanks to my contributors, and to those of you who just enjoy keeping me company.  Details of how to join in can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page, with a click on the logo above.  Remember though, I’ll be missing next week.

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Lots of snow about the blogs this week!  Start us off, Anabel!

Mugdock in the snow

But we can hop aboard the Royal Yacht and keep warm with Smidge :

The Royal Yacht and Gormley’s 6 times

Or head for San Diego with Amy :

Monday Walking: Ringling Museum

Jackie’s still got plenty of sunshine too :

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Meet Susan, everybody!  She’s new to my walks so please make her welcome :

Discovering Street Art in Astoria, Queens 

This week Debbie brings us a fascinating tower and observatory in Copenhagen :

A Short and Winding Walk

No matter how often you see Banff National Park, it always looks spectacular!

Snow Decor

Some pretty wonderful rime ice leaves from Jude!  Brrrhh  🙂

Monthly Photo Challenge : Frosty January

More of the white stuff, anybody?  You could snowboard with Drake!

Snow time

Or stroll peacefully with Jaspa in the evening sun :

Villa Doria Pamphili Park

Not so much a garden as a torture chamber but this one’s very colourful.  Thanks, Lee Ann!

Haw Par Villa- Chinese Mythological Garden

Shall we end with a nice English resort?  Gilly still manages to make it look inviting, even on a gloomy day :

Winter by the sea

Many thanks, everybody!  I love your walks.  I hope to be back with an Algarve walk on Monday, 15th February.  Take good care till then.

Jo’s Monday walk : Saltburn in Winter

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Some towns work really hard at making the best of what they have.  Saltburn-by-the-Sea, on the North Yorkshire coast, is certainly one of those. The second you step out of the railway station, you are welcomed by a frieze of mosaics, colourfully depicting many of the town’s landmarks.  The towering cliffs of Huntcliff Nab form a constant and beautiful backdrop at the end of the street.

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A saunter through majestic Victorian architecture will bring you down to the Valley Gardens.  A miniature steam train, ‘Prince Charles’, chuffs the length of the valley in the summer months.  Then there’s the beach, promenade and cliff lift, all offering their entertainments.  The pier stretches out to embrace the salt spray of the North Sea.  Parasols a-twirling, return to gaze upon Huntcliff Nab.

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I love the whimsical nod to days gone by in these mosaics.  It’s an easy enough stroll.  Come with me and I’ll show you how it all looks this winter.

Followers of this blog will be no strangers to Saltburn.  We’ve walked here together before.  I hadn’t really intended to take you there today, but my husband was measuring the garden of a lovely old Grade II listed house, in the town.  With a couple of hours to kill, I wasn’t going to waste an opportunity, now was I?

Let’s start with a look at some of the quirky shop fronts.  Browsing here is seldom dull.  See anything you like?

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That’s quite enough of indulgence.  Keep that pie and mash shop in mind for later.  The owner looks very welcoming.  First we need a little bracing air.  It’s not too cold today, evidenced by the numbers on the beach.   The cliff lift stands lonely in silhouette, steps taking us down to the shoreline.

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 No yarn bombing on the pier, as yet, but I’m sure that it will arrive in the summer.  Remember Alice, from last year?

The beach stretches off into the distance.  Children stamp and twirl gleefully on the sand.  Dog walkers are out in abundance.  A couple of opportunists sweep the beach in search of treasure.  Their find, multi-coloured pebbles, unwinking, except where caught in a flowing stream.  A life scored deep within their grooves and whorls.  Strands of seaweed, unfurling briny curls.

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It’s time to turn and head back beside the crumbling cliffs.  Filigree patterns beneath the pier, and above, a bench to read on or simply watch the ebb and flow of tide.

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There’s a lovely corner cafe, beside Cat Nab, just before you reach the brig.   You can watch the stream gushing into Valley Gardens from the outdoor terrace.  It’s a little muddy through there today.  So much rain in recent times!  It’s a steep pull back up to the cliff top, where you’ll be welcomed by the Victorian wicker family.  Some kind soul has knit them poppy buttonholes.

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That’s it for another week!  Pie and mash, or did you indulge at the corner cafe?  Time to put the kettle on now, and join my walking friends.

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Huge thanks, as always, to my contributors, and to those of you who simply like to keep me company.  If you’d like to join in at any time, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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Anabel goes in search of sunshine this week :

Bermuda : Somerset to the Dockyard

Geoff’s in Dulwich, looking at the definition of village :

Village Life

Amy’s found the most beautiful restaurant!

Monday Walk : Ybor City

Funny how some names always conjure up a song.  Any Steely Dan fans out there?

Day 1- Guadalajara

Good to welcome somebody new to the walks, so please head for Scotland and say ‘hi’ to Smidge :

Winter in the Botanics

Jude’s left her plants, temporarily, for a bit of a tongue twister this week :

Scrobbesbyrig/Shrewsbury : a look at stone buildings

Among many other talents, Nicole is an accomplished hiker.  Just take a look!

Best Hikes in Tucson : Bear Canyon’s hike to Seven Falls

Drake is in romantic mood.  Who wouldn’t be, in Venice?

L’atmosphere noire

A head for heights and a sense of humour are what you’ll need on Esther’s walk :

Walk on a Tightrope

Or, if you’re still feeling romantic?

Walk of Love

What might you expect to see in Panama?  Jaspa’s your man!

The Real San Blas Islands

I learnt a little more Welsh today, with Student in Snowdonia.  ‘Yr Aran’ – The Peak :

The Peak

I like the idea of tapestries on my walls.  Maybe I should try life in a castle :

Bunratty Castle- Home of an Irish King

A great selection, aren’t they?  I had intended to close my walks for 2 weeks, but my lovely husband pointed out that we don’t leave for the Algarve until next Monday afternoon.  Plenty of time for another, he said!  It’s not the walking that’s hard.  It’s keeping up with the responses.  We’ll see! Have a wonderful week, meantime.

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : High Force and Gibson’s Cave

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It’s almost like a watercolour, isn’t it?  The light was so beautiful on that late December day in Teesdale, and the sense of freedom was intoxicating. The days on either side of it had sheeted with rain, and there was little doubt in my mind that the Tees would be in full spate.  Where better to head than spectacular High Force waterfall, situated within the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Beauty?

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From the car parking at High Force, you can walk down to view the falls and then follow the river downstream to Low Force, pictured in my first photo.  A sign at the top of the path grabbed my attention- a reminder that the power of nature is nothing new at all.

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High Force formed where the River Tees crosses the Whin Sill– a hard layer of igneous rock.  The waterfall itself is comprised of three different types of rock.  The upper band is whinstone, or dolerite- a hard igneous rock which is slow to erode.  The lower section is carboniferous limestone- much softer and easily worn away.  Between the two, carboniferous sandstone was baked hard when Whin Sill was molten 295 million years ago.  This combination means that the waterfall is slowly moving upstream as the rock wears away.

I had no sense of this, as I stood there, enveloped in a world of water.  The temporary fine weather, and the respite between Christmas and New Year, had brought the crowds to gaze in wonder.  I edged as close as I could, happy to worship alongside them.

As I walked back up the path, the rocks streamed with water, and the frailty of the trees was visible all around me.  It’s many years since I was last at High Force, and I had to ask myself why.  The countryside is so beautiful!

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Looking at the map in the car park, I followed the river along to Bowlees Visitor Centre, and my attention was caught by a short walk to Gibson’s Cave.  Something new to me!  My husband knew from the glint in my eye that this was my next target.

I was delighted to find that the somewhat muddy path followed a tributary of the river, and that there were more waterfalls in store.

The route bypasses abandoned Bowlees Quarry and I stopped to read the signs.  It was too wet underfoot to do more.

The drystone walls and even the fences were covered in spongy, green moss, but it was the bed of the river that captivated.  The rock formation was unlike anything I’d seen before- an intricate scratching of patterns .

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You can see the path, running alongside the falls.  It was a little slippy in places and I had to scramble through a fallen tree, but the end was in sight- Gibson’s Cave.  But who was Gibson?  A ‘lovable rogue’, apparently.

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Did you read the explanation of the patterns on the river bed?  Layers of grey limestone, sandstone and dark shale, in a tropical sea about 330 million years ago.  Quite incredible!  And Gibson?  A happy, 16th century outlaw.

That wasn’t the end of my adventures for the day, but I think that it’s a good point at which to stop.  The Bowlees Visitor Centre is nearby and, if you’re lucky, it might be open.  Cake, or something more substantial?

Next week we’ll carry on to Low Force.  It’s just as lovely, so I hope that you can join me.

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First things first- let’s put the kettle on and get settled for a good read.  Huge thanks to my lovely contributors!  If you have a walk you’d like to share I’m always happy to have you along.  Details of how to join in are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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Let’s start with Debbie, and some beautiful views of Edinburgh :

Up Calton Hill

Jackie is still enjoying Mexico!

Monday Walk- La Noria

And Amy takes me to a beach I remember from long ago :

Monday Walk : Clearwater Beach

There’s one thing my friend Drake has for sure!

Independent Mind  (And a love of beautiful places too)

Back to the rain forest with Lee Ann for two super walks, in quite different places!

O’Reilly’s Tree Top Walk

MacRitchie Trails Rainforest Walk

Anyone ready for a snowy walk yet?  Not too much snow, I promise!

Alone in the Snow : Mynydd Mawr

Surely one of the prettiest walks from the festive season!  Many thanks, Jude :

Christmas Glow

Meanwhile, Richard is topical (and maybe a bit windswept!) :

There’s more to Boscastle than floods

And Denzil is eating blackberries :

Masbourg : How Green is my Valley

If you had a garden like Pauline’s, you would never mind coming home :

Back Home in the Garden

That’s it for another week!  My walking group will be out today, weather permitting.  First walk together after the New Year, and we’re sticking to footpaths- no boggy fields!  Take care of yourselves!

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Newstead Abbey

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Newstead Abbey in Nottinghamshire is the perfect setting for a Victorian period drama.  Yet I was unprepared for the small characters chattering excitedly in the grounds.  The Abbey itself, formerly the home of poet Lord Byron, was closed to visitors, but I had come seeking fresh air and a stroll in the lovely grounds. I had company, and naturally my daughter was fittingly dressed for the occasion. To the manor born, without a doubt.

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A long drive sweeps up to the house, thick with rhododendrons and camelia.  There are over 300 acres of parkland and gardens, and cars can park quite near to the house.  Let’s save a little energy and sashay straight into the gardens.  A former monastic residence, the priory dates back to 1274.  I showcased the house and the Byron connection on a previous visit (and got to meet Santa!) if you’d like to know more.

The Garden Lake swells out in front of the house, and you can walk all around it.  The lakes, ponds and cascades that ornament these gardens are fed by the River Leen.  Pass by the unappetisingly named Monk’s Stew Pond (probably once a fishpond for the monks) to delve into the Fernery.

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The grotto has an interior made from Derbyshire tufa, whilst some of the old carved stones used in the Fernery probably came from the ruins of the priory church.  Built into the wall with the alcove were terracotta stands, for the display of potted ferns.

Bright berries gleam from the foliage and a drift of lemon whispers its presence in among the shrubs.  For all that this is a garden in winter, there is no lack of interest.  The rolling hedges are clipped pleasingly to the eye.  It’s so easy to meander among them, beguiled by shapes and shadows.

The formal shapes of the Rose Garden and Small Walled Garden invite closer inspection.  Both were once part of a two and a half acre kitchen garden.  In heated glasshouses, now demolished, grapes, melons, peaches and winter cucumbers were grown.  Even in a mild December, roses were few, but I liked the quirky mesh gardeners who kept us company.

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A willow sculpture catches my eye, complete with bench.  Too late for THAT challenge, I’m afraid!

Behind the house, the Great Garden is a formal garden of terraced walks descending to a large rectangular pond.  Two swans splashed each other playfully, just out of range of my camera.  The adjacent French and Spanish gardens are among my favourites.  Every Spring in the 1830s and 40s the gardener laid fresh red and white sand, in intricate patterns, directly onto the soil in the French Garden.  It was affectionately known as the ’embroidery garden’.

The Boatswain’s Monument sits mournfully at the centre of the lawn, Byron’s tribute to his beloved Newfoundland dog.  The inscription speaks of ‘Beauty without Vanity, Strength without Insolence, Courage without Ferocity, and all the Virtues of Man without his vices’.

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Are you beginning to flag yet?  I believe the tearooms are open.  Muffins and gingerbread latte, before or after we tackle the lake?

The shadows are lengthening and there’s a hint of chill in the air.  Ominous clouds dot the sky so we won’t linger much longer.  It’s not the time of year to view the yellow water lily, wild angelica, water forget-me-not, corn mint and the many species that surround the Garden Lake, but it is still undeniably beautiful, don’t you think?

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The Japanese garden with its lovely cascades is looking a little bedraggled, but we can still cross the stepping stones to admire the lanterns.  There’s one more feature I’ve left deliberately till the end, and someone’s waiting there to say goodbye.  Accompany me to the waterfall?

The gift shop, with its pretty things, was calling to my daughter.  We lingered just a shade too long, and came out into a deluge of a different kind! Brollies aloft, we scurried to the car.  The day ended with a magical double rainbow and I felt truly blessed.  I hope you have enjoyed our company today. (and that of the children from Woodthorpe school)

The Newstead Abbey website includes a detailed garden tour, which you might like to follow, plus details of how to get there.

You may already know that Jude has chosen to abandon her benches.  Sigh!  The challenge has run for a highly successful year, but it’s time to move on.  My Winter garden, though not quite what she was hoping for, is my first contribution to the new challenge.  I’ll definitely have to be honing my skills (or trying!)  Her first post is a stunner, but I won’t spoil it for you.  Go and look!

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Meanwhile, it’s time to get the kettle on and share a few more walks.  I hope that all of you, walkers or not, have enjoyed their Christmas break. Many thanks for all your contributions but, more importantly, your friendship.  Join me whenever you like.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or the logo above.

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First, come beach combing with Drake on the lovely little Danish island, Samsø :

Stone-washed path

There’s a certain fascination about a lighthouse, isn’t there?

Cape Byron Lighthouse

Jackie was still ‘down Mexico way’, hopefully enjoying the sunshine :

El Quelite, Mazatlan

Let me introduce you to a Slovenian Girl abroad, in Switzerland.  Such pretty photos!

Zurich in December

And a lovely lady in another good-looking place.  Please welcome Mitza to my walks :

A walk through Hamburg in Winter

Debbie has found a nice little beach, somewhere you might not expect :

A Seaside Walk in Edinburgh

While Jaspa would have me galloping this week!

Best. Crossing. Ever!- Santiago, Chile

This next isn’t a walk, and might be better suited to Jude’s Garden challenge, but I want to share it with you, courtesy of Debra :

Huntington Botanical Gardens and El Nino Watch 2016 

Some people can just always be relied on!  Walk with Gilly.  She’s a sweetheart!

Another Quay Perspective 

Brisbane and the rainforest is my final destination.  Thanks Lee Ann!

Moran Falls – Sculpture by Nature

That’s it for now!  Breathes big sigh!  If I’m slow responding this week it’s because I have Polish family visiting for a few days (including a very special uncle) but normality (ha!) will be restored on Thursday.  Take care till then!

P.S  Those lovely ladies at Monday Escapes are back if you have 5 minutes to wish them Happy New Year.

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Salt marshes at Fuseta

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It’s that ‘betwixt and between’, Christmas time and the New Year.  The weather has been atrocious in so many places and some people will be spending it mopping up and repairing their homes.  I haven’t managed too much walking lately myself, but I do still have some happy memories to share.  Shall we take a little salt marsh stroll in the Eastern Algarve?  Nothing too strenuous!  At day’s end, we can even linger by the beach awhile.

The sky is blue, and that’s a good start!  I’ve taken you to Fuseta before.  It’s a little off the beaten track, but beloved by campers for the beachfront camp site.  New development unkindly overshadows the distinctive fishermen’s homes.  Prime location is key, after all, but the fishermen pursue their livelihood as they always did.  The settlement dates back to 1572, and the fishing boats still cluster together in the mouth of the Rio Tronoco.

Approximately 10km east of Olhão, you turn off the E125 and follow the narrow road, over the railway tracks and down past the river mouth to the shore.  Except in high Summer you will find ample parking beside the camp site.  With the sea on your left, walk between the fishermen’s houses and the new apartment blocks facing the sea.  The salt marshes open out where the road ends.

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It’s a distinctive landscape, and habitat for all kinds of birds.  I’ve grown to love it’s oft times, unkempt appearance when the tide is low. Spears of sunlight glinting on high water will reward my patience later.  Coots bob gently on the surface, while their longer-legged friends peck, and choose.

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Paths lead between the salt pans but you would be ill advised to follow any that are not obviously well trodden.  Cyclists zip past, some with a smile and a wave.  Looking back, houses randomly dot the marsh borders, and in the distance the new builds gleam, whitely.

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You can follow the cycle track all the way to Olhao if you wish, but I did promise you a shorter walk, so I’m meandering back, on the main path across the marshes.  I know of a good bench or three, where you can watch the locals play boules and still keep an eye on the sea.IMG_1198

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You’ll be wanting a stop at the beach cafe, but I might just tempt you to a stroll along the river mouth first?  You know I like a boat or two!

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It’s a little ragged around the edges, but Fuseta is a real and honest place, with a working population.  I hope you enjoyed accompanying me on my stroll.  Shall we head back to that cafe now?  I hear there’s cake!

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I’ve had a great time walking with you all this year.  Thank you for the support.  It has been amazing!  I worry sometimes that the formula is growing stale.  I know that I will carry on walking and sharing, because I love it, but I would hate for you to be bored.  You can say so, politely, in the comments, if you wish.  I promise not to take offense.  For now, I’m going to put that kettle on.

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Not many shares this week, as you’ve all been busy with Christmas!  Hopefully you’ll find time to read just a few excellent ones.  Many thanks to my contributors!  My Jo’s Monday walk page gives details of how to join in.

Drake’s post was wonderfully Christmassy!  Happy New Year to you, sir!

Walkaround

Over at Junkboat Travels they were making a proper holiday of it :

Mazatlan, Mexico

Why not visit Jaspa’s favourite city?  You may be in for a surprise :

Secret Itineraries Tour, Doge’s Palace, Venice

One of my joys on Christmas morning was this precious gift from Meg.  Please don’t miss it!

Eurobodalla beaches : Wasp Head 

And my lovely friend Gilly proves that murky weather doesn’t have to make you miserable :

A Boxing Day stroll

Please do join me on Jo’s Monday walk next week, when I’ll be celebrating the launch of Jude’s new Garden Photography Challenge.  I have a rather nice English garden to share.  But first,  I’d like to wish you a very happy and healthy New Year, and lots of walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Vaqueiros

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A dilemma this week!  Whether to take you back to those blue Algarve skies, or stay with reality, here in the UK?  Ever the escapist, I’ve opted to leave reality on hold, just a little while longer.  Vaqueiros is another of those pretty hill villages in the Eastern Algarve.  A quirky little walk, this time I had the company of my walking friends, so no need to worry about angry dogs.

Again, the drive up into the hills from Tavira was a test for the driver, but pure delight for the passenger.  Before coming to the Algarve I would never have expected to find hairpin bends and smoke coloured hills.  Every twist and turn looks down across another tiny village, or out across a lovely panorama.  With each bend I want to shout ‘stop the car’, and leap out with my camera.  But, of course, that isn’t a practical option, and the dedicated walkers in our group would have been less than impressed.  Coffee stops, however, are mandatory, and we congregate outside a miniscule cafe in Vaqueiros.  I’m eye to eye with a languid grey cat, sitting comfortably atop a heap of beer crates.  Raising my camera appears to be the signal for a sprint start.  Another wasted photo opportunity!  Nothing for it but to start walking.

Vaqueiros is one of the villages along the Via Algarviana, a 300km walking and biking trail which crosses the Algarve.  The walk today is a circular route of just 13km.  In late November the sun is shining brightly but walkers are scarce.  The olive trees are laden with fruits, soon to be harvested. Our route takes us out of the village, joining a gently rising track.  Gnarled olive trees and umbrella pines are our chief companions.

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Can you see Michael, in the deep shade, at the rear of the group of walkers?  They are quite fit and walk at a decent pace.  I’m always hanging back, looking for an interesting shot.  Unless I get engrossed in conversation, which can sometimes happen.  I try to maintain a balance between enjoying my companions and the landscape.

Red and yellow markers indicate that we are still following a trail, but we mostly rely on our group leader.  An Algarve resident, he has been walking these hills for many years.  His well-muscled legs handle the ups and downs with ease.  Some of us are not so lucky! Along the route we come upon a couple of fords, but water levels are notoriously low this year. The rain came all in one week and everywhere is tinder dry.

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A cluster of hens are happy in the shade.

I mentioned at the beginning that this is a quirky walk.  Up in these hills you unexpectedly come upon the remains of a theme park. ‘Parque Mineiro’ was a misguided idea which never actually came to fruition.  Copper was once mined in this area and was presumably the inspiration behind the theme park.  I wasn’t at all prepared for the sight of a little yellow train, and yet there it was, intact and still sitting on the rails.

I’m sorry to disappoint, but there isn’t a cake stop on this walk.  Groans all round!  The village doesn’t have one and in fact we took a picnic with us. We ended up back at Vaqueiros, outside the same little cafe.  The lads helped to empty those beer crates while my tumbler of red cost but 40 cents!

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It’s a lovely part of the world.  This promotional video of the Via Algarviana is a nice introduction.  There is a board near the cafe which shows way-marked trails, should you ever get that far.

And that’s my walking done till after Christmas, so may I take this opportunity to wish all of you a happy and healthy Christmas (yes, you are allowed cake!  You can walk it off afterwards).  Time to put that kettle on!

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A last round-up before Christmas.  Huge thanks to all of you who’ve followed along, up hill and down dale.  I’ve enjoyed your company so much, and thank you for helping to keep me trim.  Join me any time you like.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Quick off the mark last week, Drake was in thoughtful mood :

Space for reflection

Lovely to have Debbie back in our midst again!

A Winter Stroll on Beach Street

Lots of you seem to know my weaknesses now!  Many thanks, Elaine :

A canalside walk

It’s round up time with Amy.  Pick a favourite?

A Walk through my Monday Walks

I shall make it to Water of Leith one day- trust me, Anabel!

Edinburgh- everything is going to be alright 

Still walking in circles with Geoff!

The Capital Ring : Richmond to Greenford, via Osterley

Violet shows us how beautiful Christmas in small town Ontario can be :

River of lights

Then we can hop across the water to cosmopolitan Toronto :

Toronto…. waterscape walks

You might have missed this one last week?  I did!  Apologies!

Metal and Wood Trail

Jaspa takes us to South America again.  Such a beautiful cathedral!

Trujillo’s Colonial Heart, Peru 

Walk homewards with Ruth?  You won’t regret it :

Stroll home

And isn’t it always a pleasure to spend time with Pauline and Jack?

Farm walk

Gilly lives in a lovely part of the world.  She’s lovely too!

The Otter in August

Hope to see some of you next week, if you’re not too busy entertaining and having fun.  I’ll be looking forward to a bit of fresh air in that gap between Christmas and New Year.  Off I go, to wrap presents.  I still have some to buy!  Take good care till I see you again, and have a wonderful time with your loved ones.

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Barranco das Lajes

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My walk through Portugal’s Barranco das Lajes definitely comes in the category of ‘tales with a happy ending’, but for a while I wasn’t so sure.

Let me set the scene.  The skies were the clearest of blues.  I’d been in the Algarve for long enough to take this completely for granted (a week!). I’d ambled on beaches, and been out with my walker friends.  I’d even met up with a lovely blogger and her husband for coffee. (Hi Becky!)  I was in as relaxed a state as I ever achieve.  But those smoke blue hills on the horizon were calling me.  Much earlier in the year I’d been there and resolved to come back for a walk.

Out came the guide to Walking Trails in the Algarve , which you might remember from my walk on the cliff tops at Carrapateira.  This walk has a very different location.  From my eastern Algarve home in Tavira it is a lovely drive along the N270 to São Brás de Alportel. As Becky points out in her most recent walk, directions in this guide are a little vague.  Fortunately my husband has a good memory for roads.  North we went, through the villages of Alportel, Cova da Muda, Javali, Parises, and Cabeca do Velho, climbing higher and higher into the hills.  When it seemed we couldn’t go any higher, and my ears were popping, we reached the minute village of Cabanas- the start of the trail.

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A more peaceful spot you could not hope to find…. until!  Over a farm wall hopped two dogs, the leader barking ferociously and heading straight for me.  Barking dogs are a pretty common factor on any walk in the Algarve countryside.  Most farmers have an animal or two to protect their property.  Usually they are on a leash, or behind a sturdy gate.  In such an isolated spot, the farmer obviously did not expect company.  He shouted at the dogs, but not before the leader had reached me and leapt at the back of my knee. Ouch!  I have to admit I was shaken and not a little worried that it had broken the skin, but I was ‘lucky’.

The walk follows the asphalt road a very short distance through the village of Lajes, before turning down a trail.  I limped along feeling a little sorry for myself, and wishing I’d had a walking pole handy for defence.  But it was such a beautiful day, and my surroundings so serene, it really was hard to stay grumpy.

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The trail descended quite gently, but it soon became clear that I had made the wrong choice of footwear.  My grazed toes did help to take my mind off my sore leg.  Grateful for small mercies!  A pause for a little discreet padding.  Can you believe that I really was enjoying myself?  But I sincerely hope that you will learn from my bad example.  Meanwhile the trail passed through olive and fig groves, beneath numerous cork and holm oaks and down to a watercourse, with rustling bamboo.

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Climbing back out of the valley, I marveled at the early flowering fruit trees.  I couldn’t decide whether these were the famous Strawberry trees (known for their powerful liqueur, Medronho) or Loquats.  In Spring these valleys will sing with with wild flowers- the rose and white faces of Cistus, lavenders in lilac and green- but for now the predominant colour is green.

Another intriguing plant draped itself rather seductively through a Eucalyptus tree- a white variety of the bottle brush?

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Almost at the end of the 5.5km walk, there is an optional loop up to Cerro da Ursa- a bit of a climb to a panoramic view.  The good news is that having reached the summit you are then back at the level of the road.  Even better, the car was merely yards away.

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After all that trauma I’m sure you can guess what I did next?  A whizz back down the hills takes us to the lovely little cafe, Tesouros da Serra, on the outskirts of São Brás.  Fig and carob cake was exactly what I needed!  Sore bits quite forgotten.

Should you be feeling energetic, details and a map can be found on the link to the Walking Trails guide.  As estimated, the walk took around 2 hours, but we didn’t hurry.  It was too beautiful.

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I do hope you’ll read some of these great contributions, and I have to apologise for keeping some of them waiting rather a long time. I’m very grateful for your company and the lovely walks we share.  Please join us if you have a walk, long or short- I really don’t mind which.  Details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or just click on the logo above.

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Now, how did Esther know I loved John Denver?

Walk Down Country Roads

Aah, the memories!  A small boy I knew loved trains!  Thanks so much, Jackie…

Train of Thought

And this week, some beautiful gardens in Toronto :

Allan Gardens

It’s always a pleasure to accompany Drake, almost anywhere!

This way please..

An idyllic landscape next from Pauline (and a few cows) :

The Rural Heart of New Zealand

Elena took such delight in Rotterdam, it’s totally infectious!

Rotterdam in a Day (part 3)

I always love to welcome a newcomer to my walks, especially if we can meet for coffee:

New York- Coffee in Central Park

Or better yet, a beach!

Coolangatta- Classic Cars by the Beach

And if that won’t do, there’s treasure!  Please say hello to Lee Anne at ‘Just me please’ :

Eagles Nest- A abundance of treasure

Don’t you love Yvette’s new look?  And the way she looks at life too!

Walk with Jo (street photos)

Gilly took such a beautiful stroll in my absence.  Hope you didn’t miss it?

A field of brassica

And then when I got home she had this waiting :

A City Stroll at Christmas

You never know what you’re going to get with Tobias, but there’s sure to be an eye pleaser :

Uzes

Meantime, Jaspa takes us back to the days of slavery :

Bulow Plantation Ruins State Park, Florida

I can confirm what Becky says, but it was still warm.  I’m missing my Algarve already!

Not every day is a sunny day

It’s great to be able to close with another special lady.  I met Cathy, once upon a time :

A November rock scramble on Billy Goat trail

That’s all for now.  I’ll probably be on my way to Nottingham when you read this and I’m sure that you understand that time with my daughter is precious.  However, I hope to be able to reply to some of you whilst in transit and I’m an early bird so I can sneak some computer time in the mornings.  I’ll catch up with the remainder on my return on Thursday, and join you for another walk next week. Take care till then!