walking

Jo’s Monday walk : Carrapateira
A nice way to travel?

A nice way to travel?

Don’t get too excited- we’re walking, of course!  On our recent trip to the Algarve, we picked up a guide to walking trails in the local Tourist Information Office.  It’s available to download online, but with more than 30 walks and over 100 pages, it’s much easier to pay 7 euros for your own copy.  I’ve included the link, just so you can see what you’re missing.

Today’s walk is based on ‘Trail of Tides’, a shortened version of no. 16 in the guide.  I didn’t undertake the whole 19kms, not because I’m lazy, but because we had already, that day, driven down the coast from the Alentejo and a riverside walk there.  Nothing too strenuous was planned.

A paddle might be nice before we get started

A paddle might be nice, before we begin?

The walk starts in the tiny village of Carrapateira, just off the west coast of the Algarve.  A cluster of cafes, a surf shop and a church- who needs more?  Oh, and there’s an old windmill too!  At the southern end of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentina protected nature park, a small stream, the Ribeira da Carrapateira, flows out through the dunes.

The main square
A pretty corner
And a church
The windmill
And Don Quixote?

You walk out of the village through a straggle of houses, in the direction of the coast.  It’s a tarmacked road initially, and as it winds up the hill you could be forgiven for wondering why you hadn’t brought the car.  My husband did!

But then, you'd miss views like this

But then, you’d miss views like this

And even better, this!

And more importantly, this!

As you crest the brow of the hill you begin to appreciate

As you crest the brow of the hill you begin to appreciate just where you are

On top of the world, with the whole of the Portuguese coastline rolling away from you on either side.  At this point you exchange tarmac for dirt track, but still occasional cars continued to bump past us.

There are plenty of boardwalks to get closer to the cliff edge

There are plenty of boardwalks to take you closer to the cliff edge

The glint

Where the tantalising glint of the water beckons

The coast curves invitingly

And the coast curves invitingly ahead

Despite the beauty of the views the sun was beginning to lower in the sky, and it still felt like a long way back to our beginnings. Perhaps it would have been a wise move to bring the car, and park at each of the viewing points, as many seemed to do?  But that would have been cheating, wouldn’t it?

The lookouts are at strategic points

The lookouts are at strategic points

Pontal was a danger for sailing ships

In the distance, the rocks at Pontal

Carrapateira point, or Pontal, has a jutting headland that made it a likely place for shipwrecks in the past.  The rock formations look deceptively similar to Cabo de S. Vicente, the south west tip of Portugal, eleven miles further south.  The rapid southbound current that adds to the danger also creates perfect conditions for surfing.

Today the water is

Today the water is deceptively calm

Alluring Amado in the distance

Alluring Amado, in the distance

Some days everything goes to plan, and some it doesn’t.  The famed surfing beach at Amado was still far ahead.  We knew that following the trail would take us there, but then we’d have to head inland, back to the village, in gathering gloom.  The joy of this particular trail is that there are alternatives.  Just beyond the headland the trail splits in two.  The left hand path will fairly swiftly bring you back to the village, or you can carry on down the coast.

The red cliffs tumbling away

The red cliffs tumbling away

Reassuringly Carrapateira appears ahead

Reassuringly, Carrapateira appears ahead

Another day I might take you to Amado, but you need to get there early.  The little car park soon fills up.  Carrapateira itself lies directly on the N268 coast road.  The link to the walking trails guide at the top of the page will give you full details, and a few other ideas besides.

Time to relax and put that kettle on!

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Yet again I have some wonderful walks to share with you this week.  Many thanks to all my contributors.  I greatly appreciate your loyalty, and I get enormous pleasure from sharing our walks together.  For anyone who doesn’t know the format, my Jo’s Monday walk page will tell you how to join in.  Just click on my logo.  You’ll be warmly welcomed.

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What better way to start a new week than with a walk from Jude?

Garden Portrait: More from Nymans

Who knew Texas was this beautiful?  Thanks, Amy!

Monday Walk: Walking along the lake

Drake brings so much pleasure with his little insights and views on life :

Raid into the fall

Up hill and down dale- Geoff takes us to the Bec :

The Capital Ring: Crystal Palace to Tooting

I always have fun with Pauline, no matter where she wanders  :

Bangalow, a country gem

Time to get a little adventurous with Ruth.  Not too scary- you’ll like it!

Airwalk, glider and swing bridges

Deeply honoured to have Sonel joining us on the walks this week.  Don’t miss!

500px Fujifilm Global Photo Walk : Damwall and Schoemansville Oewerclub

Step back in time beautifully with Suzanne (and I DO mean back!)

A walk in the bush

Pauline’s garden is a tropical paradise!  No wonder she doesn’t mind going home  :

Home from the Hills

Look- the tide’s out!  Come on, be quick- follow Anabel!

Marwick Head and Birsay

And lastly, my favourite walk of the week.  I’m sure you’ll know why!

Cobbles and Blue Sky, a Tavira stroll

I have a slight dilemma facing me this week.  I hope to be with you to share more walks next week, but there may be problems.  No worries!  I’ll keep you informed.  Meantime you might like to give those guys at Monday Escapes a shout.  Have a great week, won’t you, and happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Tyniec Monastery (a walk in two halves)
The Benedictine clifftop monastery at Tyniec

The Benedictine clifftop monastery at Tyniec

It was 8 years ago that I was first taken to Tyniec by my neice, Weronika.  Back then, it was all part of the newness of Poland in my experience, and my memories are indistinct.  I barely managed to grab a photograph!  Time to set that straight, but it was not quite so straightforward as I expected.

On a beautiful, sunny day I set out along the river bank of the Vistula, from Most Debnicki, in the heart of Kraków.  The route hugged the river closely and the name of the road, Tyniecka, seemed encouraging.  As I drew further away from the city, the path became quieter, with just the occasional jogger or cyclist for company.  It was wonderfully peaceful.  Too good to be true?

The river bank with Debnicki Bridge and Wawel in the background

The river bank with Debnicki Bridge and Wawel in the background

Looking across the river at St. Augustyna on the far shore

Looking across the river at St. Augustyna on the far shore

It looks imposing

It does look imposing!

I notice that the boats start to turn around at this point
Or just a little farther on
In the distance another bridge beckons

In the distance another bridge beckons

What I hadn’t allowed for is that soon after the above bridge, the footpath runs out.  The only option becomes a busy road with no footpath on either side.  For a while I carried on, trying not to mind the passing traffic, but a sign suggested it was still 9kms to Tyniec. The option?  A bus, of course!  No. 112 runs about every 20-30 minutes, and deposits you in the pretty village of Tyniec.  Signs point the way to the monastery.

This way to the monastery
Along this street
And you can buy a sheepskin on the way
Or something to wear
Then, look through the trees
And we’re there!

Tyniec lies 12km south west of Kraków in an area of limestone Jurassic hills, the highest of which is 293metres above sea level.  The first settlement here dates back to 3000 B.C.  In around 1040 a Benedictine abbey was founded by King Casimir the Restorer.  It was destined to have a long and turbulent history.  Aron, the first abbot of Tyniec , became a bishop of  Kraków, with the responsibility to restore order and cement the position of the Church in the newly formed Kingdom of Poland.  In 1259 the village was destroyed in the Mongol invasion of Poland. This was just one of a sequence of assaults.  In the Middle Ages the River Vistula was a political border. The Abbey would no sooner be repaired and extended than it was beseiged again.

When Poland disappeared from the map of Europe, divided between Austria, Prussia and Russia, the Abbey was used as a fortress to hold off the Russian troops.  In 1816 the Abbey was finally dissolved by the Austrian authorities and left to decay.  It wasn’t until July 1939, on the eve of World War II, that the Benedictines returned to their ruin.  Restoration was begun in 1947 and looking at the complex today it’s hard to imagine all that has gone before.

A first look at the Abbey
The outer walls
The Abbey
But this is how it looked when it was repossessed in 1939

But this is how it looked when it was repossessed in 1939

And how bleak it must have been in Winter

And how bleak it must have been in Winter

A series of information boards showed the devastation.  I would have liked to take a tour of the Abbey, but these were conducted in Polish unless you had pre-booked an English tour.  I doubted that I would benefit much and opted to simply use my eyes.  The life of the monastery continues uninterrupted from 5.30 in the morning, with the awakening bell, until 20.30 and the beginning of ‘night time silence’.  The website gives details of how a monk spends his day, and much more.

Tyniec Angel- the only shot I retain from my previous visit
Inside the church
The Madonna
The well
The thickness of the walls
Ornate door
Tyniec Abbey

In the centre of a large courtyard sits a well, which reaches all the way down to river level below us. There is a wonderful sense of peace. The most recent additions to the complex include modern reception and shop but they are not intrusive. High on the wall, a small cafe, with beautiful views down to the river.  I know you would have liked to see my piece of szarlotka, but it melted into my mouth too quickly to be caught on camera.  Accommodation is available for guests, and I can’t help feeling that this could be a very special place to spend a few days.

The view from the walls
Out to peaceful countryside
Seen from the cafe

I had wondered if it would be possible to come to Tyniec by boat from Kraków.  Steps lead down through the trees to the river below, and there I found the evidence.  Sadly, only in Summer, on Saturdays and Sundays.  It would make a wonderful alternative route back.

The boat to Kraków
And a few ducks
But trying not to disturb the peace

Trying not to disturb the peace

The best view of the monastery would be from the opposite bank of the Vistula, but I saw all that I could.  The path threads beneath the mighty limestone crags and disappears off around the bend.  The temptation to follow it was strong, but ‘home’ lay in the opposite direction.

The limestone gleamed in the sun
While far above stood the monastery
Softened by Autumn colour
A colossus in white

A colossus in white

Beside the ferry point there’s a small cafe where you can enjoy a beer and a few Polish snacks.  A path leads back towards Kraków and I followed it for a while, not sure if it would rejoin the ‘main’ road through Tyniec.  A grand looking restaurant sits back beneath the cliffs, and in the distance, views of Bielany.

Satisfied with my outing, I retraced my steps up through the village and back to the bus stop. This time I stayed on the bus back to the centre.  The rest would keep for another day.

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Thanks to everybody for their patience and the kind contributions that still flowed in despite my wandering ways.  There are double rations from a few people this week, and you may have seen some of these but please be sure not to miss any.  If you would like to join me, now or in the future, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.  Now please grab that coffee and settle down for a good read.

Drake has two offerings- a beautiful moat and castle :

Royal architecture

Or maybe Lorelei would suit you better :

Between ruins and rivers

Anabel keeps on finding sunshine in Shetland.  A neat trick!

Lighthouses and cliffs: three Shetland walks

Who’s up for a little turtle spotting with Violet Sky?

Fairy Lake

A really good guided walk takes a lot of beating, as Laura will tell you :

Guided through the city

Elisa goes people watching in the rain, in that most beautiful of cities :

A Paris Habit

Lessons in geology, and pure beauty, from my pal Meg :

Eurobodalla beaches: Bingie Bingie headland 

While Ruth manages to combine beauty and practicality :

A bush walk with links to fire management

Whooshy water always appeals to me, and Rosemay is lovely company :

Wild Seas at Canal Rocks

You’ll enjoy this sunset with her too :

Sunset at Cape Naturaliste

Over the hill takes on a whole new connotation with Pauline and her four-legged friend :

Time for walkies 

And you can just picture Pauline and Jack pootling about these stalls :

Market Day at Mullumbimby

Then stopping for fish and chips (not greedy- sharing a portion of chips)

A walk along the river

Jesh shares some of her beautiful paintings :

The Tale of one of my Plein Airs and an Imaginary Walk

And Jill shows us the beauty of her native coastline :

A wander around Ahuriri Estuary

The scenery’s a little more bleak with Jaspa :

Sewell, Chile: UNESCO World Heritage Ghost Town

Tish is known to be fond of elephants.  Combined with bubbles, let’s finish with a smile!

Summer came back on Saturday and took us to the Fair

Many thanks to all of you and I hope you have a wonderful week ahead. (weather prospects in England are good!)  See you all next Monday, when we’ll probably be back in the Algarve.  Take care till then!

Jo’s Monday walk : Vila Nova de Milfontes
Looking down from the castelo at Vila Nova de Milfontes

Looking down from the castelo of Vila Nova de Milfontes

I don’t know what it is about castles and beaches but they seem to me a very pleasing combination.  And the one above, in the Alentejo, isn’t the only one I found.  But we have to start somewhere so today I thought I’d take you over the Algarve border, and on up the western coastline of Portugal.  I have been to this area before but never so far as Vila Nova de Milfontes.

Situated at the mouth of the River Mira, the presence of the castle tells you that it was not always so peaceful here. Forte de São Clemente still has a drawbridge.  Dating back to 1485, the town had a key defensive role to play, and the wide estuary provided a safe harbour.  Today it’s not pirates we have to fear so much as tourists.  The town is part of the Southwest Alentejo and Costa Vicentina national park, which stretches all the way down the coast and into the Algarve.  As such it enjoys a good measure of protection, and development is largely low rise.

Not for nothing is this known as the windy coast, and in my short visit it was highly apparent that this could be a cool spot. (the wind sometimes whistled in the corners of my hotel)  But I also experienced some lovely sunshine, so let’s take a wander through the town.

We'll start here in the shade of the castle

We’ll start here in the shade of the castle

There’s a tiny square,  Praça da Barbacã, very atmospheric at night, which looks down on the ferry point.  A rather strange sculpture has pride of place.  It pays tribute to the role played locally in aviation between Portugal and Macau in the Far East.

The drawbridge
The monument to aviation

This is the nicest part of town, as you wander gently uphill through a mix of older houses and new.  There’s a small, simple church and a few gift shops.  What appears to be a tiny cafe turns out to be a 3 storey Tardis, serving food to half the town, myself included!  I meander along, past ochre and immaculate blue and white, letting my eye drift, as it does.

The church, in blue and white
Plain inside, with just a few decorative touches
And a Madonna
With matching nearby houses
Stylish street signs
Inviting street corners
Simple facades
And gay additions

But wait!  There are surprises in store.

Who’s this?
These guys kept hanging around
Just a little sinister?

I thought that there must be some kind of scarecrow festival going on, but this was the only evidence I found.  Just one ‘spooky’ street, with an interesting shop or two for delving.

I step inside to look at the cork products
And these cheerful fellows
Or a seahorse with attitude?

Maybe a seahorse with attitude?

This looks like a good place to stay

And on the street corner, a good-looking place to stay

Pausing, I look down to the right and catch a glimpse of water.  Like a magnet, I’m drawn.

Don’t you love this tree?
A kayak or two
And a litter of boats

Looking back you can see the road bridge spanning the River Mira which brings you into town, but ahead the estuary opens out. Locals race against the tide to winkle out errant shellfish. Beneath my feet, a shelf of lavishly coloured rock.

Gazing out to sea

Gazing out to sea

A tired dolphin
A fugitive from the tide?
The rock beneath my feet
And here's the ferry point. It's lunch hour!

And here’s the ferry point, at lunch hour

Not a lot of action going on
Just my husband, waiting!

A group of backpackers sit in the shade.  I wonder where they’re off to next.  It feels like a transient place, and I know that there are beaches aplenty, just waiting.

Time to mount the steps back to the castelo

Time to mount the steps back to the castelo- not too arduous!

There are pretty distractions
Like this kingfisher
And this is your reward!

And here you have your reward!

I hope you enjoyed our morning amble.  That fresh sea air always does me a power of good.  The resort has probably stayed so peaceful because it’s quite a distance from the nearest airport, Lisbon, and you would probably need to drive there.

Time to share some walks.  Got the kettle on?

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Some of these folks have had a long wait to be included this week, so apologies if you’ve already been there.  Please do visit them if you haven’t.  If you’d like to join in, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  You’ll be very welcome.

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Let’s start the ball rolling with Bratislava.  Wouldn’t I love to accompany Debbie there?  This is SO pretty!

No Feeling Blue Here

Blue skies in the Shetlands for Anabel.  Lucky, or what?

Jarlshof to Sumburgh Head

Car boot sale anyone?  Actually Violet’s calling it a Farmer’s Market :

To market, to market

Random but very enjoyable rambles with Jackie and Frida Kahlo :

Monday’s Walk

Fairmont Banff Springs!  Sadly this luxury is not for me, but just look at Amy’s photos!

Monday Walk : Castle in the Wilderness (2)

Drake pays a wonderful tribute to ‘strong women’ :

The shades of Joan of Arc

And, in my absence, he took a little walk with the Beatles!

Nowhere walk

While Jaspa takes us strolling ‘down South America way’ :

The Streets of Santiago, Chile

Jill takes us for a fun wander (and I think there’s street art too)

Auckland City on a good day

What do Errol Flynn and Hobart have in common?  Find out with Ruth!

A walk around Battery Point

Fascination and excitement from the Southern hemisphere!  You’ll find it with Laia :

Rotorua: Maori culture and geothermal activity

And please welcome another ‘fit person’ to my walks.  You may have difficulty keeping up!

Memories of Ireland: Mount Brandon

Jude has excelled herself in my absence, with 3 new walks!  The most recent one unfortunately ended with a limp.

Garden Portrait : RHS Wisley part 1

Garden Portrait : RHS Wisley part 2

A painful memory or two here from Jude- suffering for her art!

Garden Portrait : Painshill Park

Unfortunately I won’t be walk leading next Monday as I’ll still be recovering from a Polish wedding.  I’m only gone a few days and hope to be back on track after that.  Seriously!  Meantime you might like to keep an eye on those lovely lasses at Monday Escapes.  Take care, and enjoy your walking!

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : On the Waterfront, Bristol
Harbourside in Bristol

Harbourside in Bristol

Everywhere looks better with blue skies and Bristol’s waterfront is no exception.  I thought my luck had changed on the last day of my visit, as the skies turned to steely grey and the damp stuff arrived.  But Bristol didn’t let me down.  One cappuchino and a visit to the cathedral later, a walk along the waterfront became a distinct possibility.  So, what are we waiting for?

I have to confess that the photo above was taken from on board the Bristol Packet.  Everything doesn’t always go to plan, and when I turned up for a guided walking tour of the city I was told that it had been cancelled.  ‘Too many people in the city’, due to the Balloon Festival, was the reason given.  Nothing for it but to take to the water.  No hardship there- but I digress!

One cappuchino
Wonderful stained glass in the cloisters
Stained glass panel in Bristol Cathedral

Bristol’s Floating Harbour is a huge tribute to the resourcefulness of man.  In 1809, 80 acres of tidal river were impounded to begin the taming of the estuary.  Bristol had developed at the most downstream point at which it was possible to cross the River Avon, 6 miles inland.

The tidal range of the Bristol Channel is the second greatest of any in the world.  The tide can rise and fall as much as 14 metres twice a day.  This was an advantage and a disadvantage for sailing ships in the old days.  They could be carried all the way to Bristol on the current, but equally well they could be stranded in the mud when the tide turned.  Bristol merchants had to think of a way of damming the river, allowing the ships that were in the river to stay afloat.  Thus, a ‘floating harbour’.  I found a fascinating video which explains in more detail.

Harbourside in Bristol
A busy spot on a Saturday
And a good place to catch a ferry

The cathedral is just beyond the Floating Harbour and I headed for Watershed, a good-looking building which now houses the Tourist Information Office.  A series of cafes and restaurants line the harbourside, and behind these are Bristol Aquarium and the Science Centre. Plenty to do on a rainy day, and interesting exhibits outside too.

The water feature was first to attract my attention

The water feature was first to attract my attention

But something interesting was going on in the background!

But something interesting was going on in the background!

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There was a solar energy project, and sculptures I rather liked too.  Black and white, for Paula.

Very late, Paula!
But I remembered
A little damp to be a scribe!

Rather damp to be a scribe!

The sky still a little heavy, I returned to the waterfront and continued to follow it inland.  Modern and stylish apartments sit back from the promenade, interspersed with cafes and bars.

Heading around the waterfront

Heading around the waterfront

Life on a narrowboat?

Life on a narrowboat?

Beside the ruins of a former mill

Beside the ruins of a former mill

And in the background, the 'SS Great Britain'

And in the background, the ‘SS Great Britain’

Isambard Kingdom Brunel, designer of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, was one of the engineering giants of the 19th century.  At age just 27 he was chief engineer of the Great Western Railway, linking Bristol to London.  He then turned his attention to trans-Atlantic travel, and his steam ship ‘The Great Western’ crossed the ocean from Bristol to New York in 1838, a journey of 15 days.

Her successor, ‘SS Great Britain’, was the world’s first iron passenger liner.  At the time of her launch in 1843 she was the largest ship in the world, and had an innovative screw propeller in place of conventional paddle wheels.  She had a long and illustrious career, sailing the world as a passenger ship for 30 years, before converting to cargo.  Old and tired, she was finally recovered from the Falklands and returned to Bristol as a hulk in 1970.  Restoration has seen her take pride of place today as a first class visitor attraction, in the dock in which she was originally built.

'SS Great Britain'

‘SS Great Britain’ visitor centre

Maybe you remember 'On the Waterfront'

Do you remember my friend, ‘On the Waterfront’?

Junction Lock Bridge

Junction Lock Bridge leading to Cumberland Basin

Is anybody hungry?

Is anybody hungry?

There’s a nice ambience
And awfully nice food!

I had promised myself a visit to ‘The Pump House’ when I passed it on my long walk home from the Balloon Festival.  The building housed the original hydraulic pumping system for operating the lock gates, and is a beautiful conversion.  As luck would have it the rain was starting again- the perfect excuse.

When the rain eased, I continued on towards the lock into the Avon Gorge.  The current lock was opened in 1873 and can accommodate the largest ships that can navigate the Avon.  From here it is 6 miles by water to the mouth of the river, where it joins the Severn estuary. Ahead you can see Clifton Suspension Bridge, but beyond this point a busy road runs close to the river, and it becomes less appealing to follow.

A tour boat passes through the lock

A tour boat passes through the lock

The logical thing to do, if you have the stamina, is to cross over the harbour and return along the opposite shore of the waterfront.  You could call in at the SS Great Britain or visit the Museum of Bristol in M-Shed.  The wharves here were wiped out during heavy bombing in the Blitz and this free museum tells the story of the city.

Another alternative is to catch a ferry.  There are numerous ferry stops along the river, and you can travel all the way round to Temple Meads station (another Brunel wonder) if you wish.  It was my last day in Bristol and I wanted to see a little more of Clifton Village, so I rather foolishly clambered back up the steep side of the gorge.  Maybe we’ll have time for a look at the village another day, but for now I’m going to amble back along the quay, in my watery element.

Making the most of the sunshine

Making the most of the sunshine

Buddleia blooming in the warmth
Impatient swans calling for lunch
Peaceful at their moorings
With still, calm waters
And clear blue skies

Now I’m back at my start point on St. Augustine’s Reach, named for the abbey church of St. Augustine (now Bristol Cathedral).  The Reach was the course of the River Frome, diverted into this man-made trench in 1247.  You will see from the Floating Harbour video that the water once continued into what is now Millenium Square and the heart of the city.  I have still to mention Pero’s Bridge (a reference to an enslaved African boy) and then our walking tour is done.

Pero’s Bridge
Looking across to the Watershed
And all ends peacefully

And all ends peacefully

I expect you’re a little tired, but the good news is that I’m missing from the walks for two weeks so you can have a lovely rest.  I hope you’ve enjoyed looking at Bristol as much as I did. And now it’s surely time to put that kettle on!

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Before I go I have some more wonderful walks to share with you.  Thank you so much for all the support and encouragement I receive. If you have any walks that you would like to link up, now or in the future, the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  Do, please!

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I think I spotted a friend on the beach at Le Havre, with thanks to Drake!

Walk on water or almost

Not quite so cheery trawling a graveyard but the company is good.  Cheers, Jude!

Discovering St. Leonards

Nobody does reflection like Suzanne!  Or Impressionism, come to that :

A walk in the gardens

You will not believe how gorgeous these shoes are in stained glass!  Thanks, Jackie!

Bata Shoe Museum

But you can believe that when Amy posts photos of Banff they are fantastic!

Monday walk : Exploring Banff Lakes

Equally beautiful, even with a hint of snow, Ruth tiptoes along a mountain path :

A Walk on Mount Wellington 

Jaspa is back this week with a South American saga :

Exploring Lima’s Historic Centre on foot

And, responding magnificently to the WP weekly challenge….  thank you, Gilly!

Things you see on a good day

Becky has shared a wonderful reminder of why I’m looking forward to the Algarve this week :

Strolling in Silves

Thanks everybody, and that just leaves me to say that bright and early on Thursday I will be heading south.  I hope to catch up with all of you before I go, and there might even be another post.  Look after yourselves, happy walking and I’ll see you soon.  While I’m gone you might like to try a Monday Escape?

Jo’s Monday walk : Clifton Suspension Bridge and Observatory
Clifton Suspension bridge

Clifton Suspension Bridge, Bristol

You may remember in The Time of my life I wished I could be in two places at once?  I was watching the hot air balloons launch at Ashton Court in Bristol, but wishing I could be up at Clifton Suspension Bridge to see them float overhead too.  The bridge has a spectacular location at the head of the Avon Gorge and I thought I might take you there this week.

I left home on an early morning flight, bound for The Washington Hotel in Clifton.  The receptionist there very kindly pointed me in the direction of the bridge and I did what I do best- follow my nose!  I was extremely pleased to turn a corner and see before me the Avon Gorge Hotel.  It has a highly recommended sun terrace with views out over the bridge.

And towards Bristol!

And towards Bristol, in the other direction

A good place to start our walk, I think.  I had rather a surprise when I turned to look at the suspension bridge.  A sheep was keeping his watchful eye on me!

Fancy a chuckle?
Shaun in the City!
With all his colourful details

That’s put a smile on your face, hasn’t it?  And a good thing too because I should warn you, there’ll be a bit of ‘uphill’ involved in our walk today.

‘Wish Ewe were here’ is one of 70 Shauns liberally scattered around Bristol’s many attractions this Summer.  You can follow the Shaun in the City trail around Bristol until 31st August, after which the flock will be herded in the direction of Covent Garden in London. Aside from delighting adults and children alike, the sheep are raising money for charity.  I did spot quite a few, which I’ll share with you in another post, but today you might like to take a look at Viveka‘s.

A look out at the bridge and we're on our way

A look at the bridge, and we’re on our way

Turning left out of the hotel, you can see the bridge ahead.  I was a little disappointed that one pillar was swathed in white, but repairs were necessary.  Clifton Suspension Bridge was opened in 1864 and is a Grade 1 listed toll bridge, though foot passengers can cross for free.

Initially we are going to climb the hill to Clifton Observatory.  I promise you, the views are worth it!  Site of a former mill, 337 feet above the Avon Gorge, the cliff top was used as a look out post as far back as the Iron Age.  Today the building functions as a camera obscura.  William West, an artist, rented the mill as a studio and installed telescopes and the camera obscura to facilitate drawing the gorge and Leigh Woods on the opposite bank of the river.

Looking down from the Observatory to the bridge

Looking down from the Observatory to the bridge

Inside the Observatory
Through the camera obscura
Bird bonanza!
A plant lovers paradise

A plant lover’s paradise

I think you will agree that the view is magnificent

I think you will agree that the view is magnificent

Samuel Jackson's watercolour from 1825

Samuel Jackson’s watercolour from 1825

Looking down into the gorge

Looking down into the gorge

Having gazed our fill, it’s time to head back down and cross the bridge itself for still more magnificent views.  I hope you have a head for heights?  Suspended 75 metres above the Avon Gorge, it is an awesome feat of engineering.

Looking back at the Observatory
Crossing the bridge
Suspended
Looking up!

Looking up!

The Observatory seen from the bridge

The Observatory seen from the bridge

The River Avon below twists and turns into the distance

The River Avon below twists and turns into the distance

One of the things I’d hoped to do was to take a boat trip through the Avon Gorge, to see it properly from the river.  The gorge is home to many rare plants, in particular the whitebeam trees, some of which grow nowhere else in the world.  Amongst these are Bristol whitebeams, Wilmott’s, Houston’s and Leigh Woods varieties.  Rock cress and Bristol onion can be found clinging to the cliffs and in late Summer the delicate lilac flowers of Autumn Squill.

An evening visit would find the bridge beautifully illuminated, and in the dusk, Jackdaw and horseshoe bats swooping from their homes in the caves.  The Visitor Centre on the Leigh Woods side of the bridge will provide you with a full and fascinating history, and on Summer Saturdays and Sundays you can take a free tour of the bridge itself.

The supporting tower on the Leigh Woods side of the gorge

The supporting tower on the Leigh Woods side of the gorge

Looking back through the tower

Looking back through the tower

Although similar in size, the supporting towers of the bridge are not identical.  I was unable to verify this as the tower on the Clifton side was under wraps.  The visible tower stands 85 feet tall. Roller-mounted ‘saddles’ at the top of each tower allow slight movement to the chains when loads pass over the bridge.  I was amazed at how ‘solid’ the bridge felt beneath my feet, despite the fragility of its appearance.

The bridge is credited to a design by Isambard Kingdom Brunel, but has a colourful history.  I was interested to find that its predecessor was a stone bridge, built in the 13th century, on which were built houses 5 stories high.  Wikipedia is very informative on the subject if you would like to know more.  Our little walk can be completed with a return over the bridge, and maybe lunch at the Avon Gorge Hotel with those wonderful views.  Or you might like a wander through charming Clifton Village for a wider choice.  I’m going to head down beneath the bridge for a different view, but you don’t have to follow.

The bridge in silhouette

The bridge in silhouette

Looking back up

Looking back up

I forgot to mention St Vincent’s Cave, visible here on the cliff face and accessed from the Observatory
While below all appears peaceful in the valley

I hope you enjoyed my Monday wander as much as I did.  Perhaps you can see now why I would have liked to see those hot air balloons above the bridge. Maybe another time?  For now let’s get that kettle on, relax, and put our feet up.

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Grateful thanks, as always, to my many contributors this week.  I love walking with you all and sharing your company.  For anyone wishing to join in, my Jo’s Monday walks page will give you the details if you just click on the logo.

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The first two lovely ladies had to wait patiently while I was away last weekend, so please do visit :

In our topsy-turvy world- fabulous snow shots from Ruth in Tasmania- brrrrh!

A walk in the snow

And a gentle piece of reminiscence with Jill.  Stories beautifully told- don’t miss this!

The Old Custom House : a photographer’s delight

If you’d like to be transported to an Impressionist world, Drake will take you there :

Heaven on earth, a paradise

Debbie always stops to admire interesting architecture.  Take a look!

On Emerald Hill

Just what I could do with right now- a stroll in beautiful botanic gardens.  Many thanks, Anabel!

Dawyck Botanic Garden

Can I count this as my entry this week, Jude?  Only joking!  Thanks a lot, Amy!

Monday Walk : Banff Springs and Bench Series

Geoff is prone to a bit of a ramble :

In search of an identity- one walk, one dream

Planting acorns seems like a nice idea.  Find out how with Denzil :

Erezee: A breath of fresh Ardennes air

Drake tugs at my heart strings with a second walk this week :

Wondering walk in Paris

While Meg showers me with the most delicious orchids!  And that’s not all!

Gilgandra Flora Reserve

Still in Australia, Rosemay shows us just why Perth is the perfect home for her :

Our Adopted Home- Perth and South Western Australia

I’ve had some beautiful shares in the 18 months of Jo’s Monday walks but none lovelier than this. Thanks, Jude!

I promised you a rose garden

I hate for it to end in tears, but I’m afraid it rather does for Pauline and Jack!  Get well soon, sir!

Ups and downs in Brisbane

That’s it for another week!  Next week I think I’ll take you harbourside.  Don’t forget, those folks at Monday Escapes have lots to entertain you too.  But the main thing is to have a happy week ahead.  See you next time.

Jo’s Monday walk : sea glass at Seaham
The outlook at Seaham Beach

The outlook on Seaham Beach

This week I’m taking you back to the north east coast of England, with a bit of a purpose.  I’ll explain more later but I need you to keep your eye open for sea glass.  The beach at Seaham is one of the best locations I know for finding it.

Between 1853 and 1921 Seaham was home to Europe’s largest glass bottle works, supplying millions of hand blown bottles.  Enormous amounts of waste glass were left at the end of each day, and this was generally thrown over the cliffs and into the sea.  More than a hundred years later, scrubbed smooth by the power of the water, we have sea glass in many shapes and colours.  Are you ready to hunt?

We’ll start on the cliff top and work our way down
It’s not very steep
And soon we’re at the beach
With more pebbles than you could ever want

With more pebbles than you could ever want

And among those pebbles, the precious bits of sea glass.  You can follow the beach round to the small harbour and the lighthouse, if you like, but I’m going in the opposite direction- north towards distant Sunderland.

There's a lot of beach to examine!

There’s rather a lot of beach to examine!

Rusted groynes litter the shore

Rusted groynes litter the shore

Filling up with pebbles too

Filling up with pebbles

Incongruously, some have been mended

Rather incongruously, some have been mended

Overhead, the cliffs menace!

While overhead, the cliffs menace!

Let’s get up close and personal with a few stones.  You never know what you might find.

We're looking for a hint of glitter

We’re looking for a hint of glitter

Unconcerned, a man walks his dog

Unconcerned, a man walks his dogs

What's this? Look at the shimmer!

What’s this? Look at the shimmer!

I simply love the textures

I simply love the textures

You might remember we did something similar just south of here on Crimdon beach, a while ago, and ventured into some caves beneath the cliffs.  I’m drawn on along the endless beach, intrigued by my surroundings.  Dog walkers pass me by, with a nod and a smile, and occasionally children ferret on the beach.

Mindful of the dangers these crumbling cliffs can pose, still it’s hard not to be lured closer.

The cliff formations fascinate

The cliff formations fascinate

Torn and twisted as they are

Torn and twisted as they are

And here a table, nicely laid

And here a table, nicely laid

You know that I’m not going to be able to resist some close ups, but I treat the cliffs with due caution and the respect they deserve.  So should you!

I know that some of you are claustrophobic so I won’t linger.  The fascination of the shapes and vistas can keep me endlessly there on the shore, forgetting my purpose.  That morning a lady was standing, her dog patiently at heel, gazing out to sea.  After the briefest of smiles, I carried on my exploration.  As I turned to retrace my steps, she spoke to me.  “Did you see the dolphins?”

Crestfallen hardly describes it!  I would have loved to see them and wished she had spoken sooner.  We stood a while, hoping for a return, but they had gone.  And so I climbed, regretfully, back up the steps.

Depending on the tide, this walk can be as long or as short as you want to make it.  If you are free the next few Sunday lunch times, you will assuredly have company on the beach.  My husband, who designs gardens, does most of his work with CAD (computer aided design).  He was more than pleased to be contacted recently by Stuart Langley, a local artist, in connection with a light installation to appear at this year’s Lumiere, in Durham.  It’s an imaginative and exciting event, and Stuart has been a previous contributor with his Stained Glass Cars.  The project he is working on requires a substantial quantity of sea glass, and so he’s hoping for some help in gathering it.

If you can help in any way the Lumiere site gives details.  The event itself takes place from 12-15th November, and if you can be there I can promise you a delightful evening.  It takes place on alternate years, and this was my post for 2013.  It was a magical occasion.

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No putting the kettle on today!  I will still be in Bristol for the Hot Air Balloon festival when you’re reading this, and not back till very late in the day.  As usual, I will catch up with you all as soon as I can, and apologies to all those who are sitting unattended in my Inbox.  There’s plenty to keep you busy till then because once again I have some wonderful walks to share.  Many thanks to all of you who have joined me and, if you would like to do so next week, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just hit the logo above.

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Gardens with rhodies have always been irresistible to me.  Bogs, not so much!  Thanks, Anabel!

Geilston Garden and Tom na h’Airidh

Hitting the heights with Drake!  Don’t we always?

Mountain high

A revelation for me about Toronto! Totally changed my thinking…  thanks, Jackie!

Monday walk

More city madness with Pauline!  The inevitability of change :

Gold Coast Icons

If you’ve come to expect beauty from Amy, you won’t be disappointed here either!

Monday Walk : Banff Rocky Mountains

One of the best things about blogging is sharing magical posts such as this.  Many thanks, Suzanne!

Killarney x 2

Too good at speaking my mind, sometimes!  Hugs, please, for Jude :

The Levant Mine

A little bit of fairy dust, anybody?  Sure to find some with Violet Sky!

Wishes and dreams 

While anyone seeking inspiration should surely make a visit to Lucile :

The Quest for Inspiration

And anyone wanting to recapture childhood only needs to visit Gilly!

I Wish I was Ten Again

Debbie’s back from exotic Singapore with some cracking good sights!

Arty Stroll along Orchard Road

And to finish, from Laia, what could be better than?

A beautiful, pleasant walk in Abel Tasman National Park

Fantastic, aren’t they?  Nothing more to say than ‘have a great week’.  Hope to see you on the beach at Seaham, or failing that, at Durham in November.

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Surprised at Skinningrove
Dedicated to Skinningrove Homing Society

Dedicated to Skinningrove Homing Society

Skinningrove used to be a bit of an ugly duckling.  Situated on the north east coast of England, midway between picturesque Staithes and Saltburn-by-the Sea, it has fierce competition in the beauty stakes.  You have to turn off the coast road to go looking for it, and many would not trouble.  The village is trying to attract it’s share of revenue from tourism and, with the help of a leaflet entitled ‘Skinningrove Valley Trail’, that’s where we’ll be walking today.

Our start point is by the jetty, built in the 1880s to serve the ironworks which is the reason for the village’s existence.  My leaflet describes it as looking forlorn, but funding has been acquired to renovate the jetty.  The process was just beginning at the time of my walk.

The beach by the jetty
Crossing Skinningrove Beck

A straggle of houses and fishing boats decorate the shoreline.  A fisherman nods ‘good morning’ and carries on painting his tired looking boat, soon to have a new lease of life.  Crossing Skinningrove Beck into the village we come swiftly upon the tribute to the Homing Pigeon Society, which reminds us that using pigeons to carry messages dates back to Ancient Greece and Rome. Locally the birds are known for their heroic activities in World War II.

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Moving into the village, we head along Stone Row
With its pretty cottage gardens

Across the beck from Stone Row you can see man-made caves, which were carved out to shelter hospital patients when bombing raids took place during the war.  And then the first of my ‘surprises’.  On the bridge, a mosaic which illustrates the story of the village.

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A few 'tangoing' poppies, a bench and the tip of an anchor

A few ‘tango-ing’ poppies, a bench and the tip of a rusting anchor

And looking back, the man-made caves

And looking back, the man-made caves

The Square is a designated Conservation Area.  Former Timm’s Coffee House stands importantly on the corner, now converted to a guest house, ‘Moonfleet’, rather sadly.  Part of the building is Grade II listed, having started life in 1704 as Skinningrove Hall. In the 19th century it was developed as a hotel by the Maynard family, who named it Timm’s Coffee House after the coffee houses that were then popular in London.

With an 'unusual' bench, for Jude?

An ‘unusual’ enough bench, for Jude?

Another of my ‘surprises’ coming up next.  I spent many a happy minute exclaiming over the mosaics on the side of Riverside Building. It began life as a school in 1884 and remained so till the late 1990s.  Since then it has become a base for community projects and activities, and is run by a group of volunteers.  I pop back for a cuppa and a gossip with the locals at the end of my walk, but for now let’s just enjoy the mosaics.

This one looks at the floods of 2000

This one illustrates the major floods of 2000

Click on any photo to open the gallery

You may recognise the homing pigeon
The floods were extensive
Aren’t the details great?
Like the Adverse Weather team!
And the digger
The cars floating in the streets
And the rescue helicopter

The building is no work of art, but the efforts of Glynis Johnson and the school children who were involved are delightful.  There are two themes- the floods and the Story of the Merman. Allegedly a ‘sea-man’ was once caught by the local fisherfolk.  He lived on raw fish for a number of days but then managed to escape.  Sometimes, when the sea is calm, a hideous groaning can be heard and the fishermen are afraid to go to sea!

The Story of the Merman

The Story of the Merman

The floods of 2000
The village
And a watchful dog

Skinningrove was a mining village, though the evidence is harder to find these days.  The rust red water in the beck vividly testifies to the presence of iron, and the remains of an entrance to the mine can still be seen.  I had intended to visit the Cleveland Ironstone Mining Museum but was not convinced that I wanted to go underground.  During the war the mine was regularly used for shelter, and a school log book entry for 9th September, 1915 reads “Owing to Zeppelin raid and the children having been in the mines a good part of last night, we have been obliged to close school today”.

I later discovered that the guided tour takes an hour and a half.  At Christmas, Santa delivers his sack of toys along the miner’s track, without any necessity to go below ground.  Maybe I’ll come back then!

Present day entrance to the mining museum
Former mine entrance

One more ‘surprise’ in store.  A mural on Doorstep Green portrays ‘Evolution of Life in the Sea’. It was created by Philippa Threlfall, using materials from Skinningrove beach, and with the help of children from the former Rosecroft School.

Again, click on a photo to see it in detail

The Valley Trail climbs out of the village and across the A174 (a busy road), following the beck into Whitecliff Wood.  Curiosity impelled me to take a look, but you could simply retrace your steps.  Over the road I pass by an animal sanctuary, where the animals appear quite content.  The adjoining house has lupins by the fence and I pause, remembering my mother, who always had roses and lupins in her garden.  The trail soon peters out as the beck flows through a culvert under the railway embankment.

Following the beck
Looking back at the site of the former Kilton Mill
Into the woods
The lupins
The disappearing beck

Back in Skinningrove, I find the friendly ‘staff’ in Riverside Building in a lull between customers.  I consume the cheapest toasted teacake and mug of coffee I’ve ever had, while they tell me about life in the village.  Everything is done on a voluntary basis and they pool their expertise. Apparently a little gift shop is set to open up soon.  If you pass that way, drop in and say ‘hi’, and you can pick up a leaflet on this trail.  Here they are, on Facebook.

Heading for home now, but not before I take a look at ‘Repus’- the fishing coble which serves as a memorial to those lost at sea.

Spanking new fencing adorns the seafront
And another ‘unusual bench’
Leads the way to the ‘Repus’ memorial
The coble, facing out to sea
Steering for shore

The last bench reminds me that this is the midway point along the Cleveland Way, a 110 mile walk between Helmsley and Filey.  Now there’s a challenge!  If you prefer something a little easier, why not drop in on Jude for her Bench challenge?

I’m a little further down the coast today, walking on the cliff tops at Whitby, so I may be late in answering your comments.  I suspect you’ll have plenty to keep you busy in the meantime. Thanks for reading!

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Once again I’d like to say a huge thank you to those who have contributed to making my Jo’s Monday walk a success.  If you’d like to join in, click on the logo for details.  Time to put the kettle on and settle back for a read.  I think I need some toast, too.

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A busy spot, the Gare de L’Est!  Please take your time and watch the video.  Thanks, Drake!

East- entrance to Paris

Hope you had good Canada and Independence Days, all those who celebrate it!

Cee’s Which Way Challenge

Inspirational shots from Amy!  She’s on holiday this week.  Treats in store!

The Antelope Canyon

A lighthouse, and some stunning thrift?  Cornwall, of course!  Many thanks, Jude :

Pendeen Watch

Wild thyme and Lady’s Bedstraw, from Tish, but not very much sleep, unfortunately!

Return to Windmill Hill: Of Grasshopper stalking, Lady’s Bedstraw and other random discoveries 

Meanwhile Pauline is up at the crack of dawn to capture the sunlight on the water :

Early morning walk along the beach…

And Ruth has gone to the other extreme.  Both extremely beautiful!

A walk in the moonlight

Thank you for finding time to read these wonderful contributions.  I hope I haven’t ‘wittered on’ too long.  Maybe something shorter next week? (though this trail is only a mile and a half long) Grab some sun, if you can, and I’ll see you then.

 

Jo’s Monday walk : Finchale Priory
The ruins of Finchale Priory

The ruins of Finchale Priory

My walk this week, much nearer home, takes me along the banks of the River Wear, four miles from the city of Durham.  I hear that a heatwave is forecast and you might be glad of a little shade.  I was dodging showers on my walk, so the trees proved extremely useful.

The Grade 1 listed ruins of Finchale Priory began life in the 13th century as a Benedictine priory. Today they are managed by English Heritage.  The only details I could glean from their page are that the Priory was founded on the site of a retired pirate’s hermitage (!) and was later used as a holiday retreat for monks from Durham Cathedral.

The approach is through peaceful countryside, covered in rapeseed early in the season

The approach is through peaceful countryside, covered in rapeseed early in the season

The clouds are a little menacing so we need to be quick!

The clouds are a little menacing, so we need to be quick!

We might just make it!

We might just make it!

St. Godric of Finchale was an English hermit, merchant and medieval saint who was born in Norfolk.  After many pilgrimages around the Mediterranean, he spent the last 60 years of his life as a hermit in these idyllic surrounds.  To find that same peace and serenity you need to visit out of season, as today a caravan park adjoins the site.

As so often, I turn to Wikipedia for my knowledge.  For instance, I had no clear idea what a piscina might be, though I was assured that there was a double one on the south wall.  It’s a shallow basin, placed near the altar of a church, used for washing the communion vessels. Hunting through my photos, I discover that I have some evidence.

A scilla

A double piscina

A view through the ruins

A view through the ruins

But this is the sight that intrigues me most

But this is the sight that intrigues me most

I cannot seem to find a reference that explains this ‘chimney’ with a conical point, and I can’t recollect seeing one before.  If any of you can help me on this, I’d be grateful.  Now, you remember that we are beside the river?

Click on a photo for a closer look

The view from the prior’s study
An inviting bridge crosses the river
The walls are good and thick
But with a strangely shaped door!
For a while the sky is blue
And I can admire the cloud through the many windows
See those right at the back of this shot?
The ruins with the farmhouse/cafe alongside

The ruins with the farmhouse/cafe alongside

And a closer look at that 'chimney'

And a closer look at that ‘chimney’

While the sky is blue I think we should cross over the bridge.  Got your brolly, just in case?

Here we go!
The water is shallow in places
But the bridge supports are solid
In places the River Wear flows swiftly

In places the River Wear flows quite swiftly

Across the bridge, you can look back at the Priory

Looking back, a view of the Priory

Choices next, for a short, circular walk through Cocken Woods.  You can climb the steps, rather steeply, or follow the river bank for a short distance and then climb, a little more gently, up through the woods.  No contest, really!  Just past bluebell season, there was the thickest carpet and a deafening aroma of wild garlic!

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A lamb or two
And a bench!

It had to happen!  Just about then the skies opened and the rain battered the river.  My back pressed close to a tree trunk, I watched the steady tattoo and inhaled deeply.  When the rain eased a little, there was just time to cross the bridge and slip quickly inside the cafe.

It was a welcoming space
And I just remembered where I had my last cream scone, Jude!

You’re probably thinking that that’s enough for the day, but I never want to waste an opportunity. Beyond the picnic benches, a path follows the river, on the same shore as the Priory but in the opposite direction.  There’s a little climb before it levels out so I won’t make you walk again.  Stay here and I’ll just show you a couple of photos.

Beside the river
And looking back at the bridge
Up among the trees
Struck by lightning?
Or simply old?

Just one last look at the Priory, before it’s time to go.

Probably my favourite shot

Loving the shapes and the shadows

And a surprise beneath the Priory!

And one last surprise, beneath the Priory!

I hope you enjoyed my ‘traces of the past’.  I’ve included the English Heritage link for directions and opening times, and the other links for history and background.  There is a special link too. Many of you will have seen Paula’s traces of the past, in Slovakia.  I hope I’m not too late with my offering of Finchale Priory.

One cup of coffee down, two to go?

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For any of you not used to my ramblings, can I direct you to my Jo’s Monday walk page or the logo above?  It will encourage you to join me.  For all you other lovely people, can I just say a huge thanks, both for your support and your wonderful contributions.  Please make time to visit the posts below.  You won’t regret it!

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Drake’s always a winner- in more ways than one!  First with his contribution again last week :

Neighbour-visiting 

Back on home turf with Anabel, in Scotland.  Do you know this one?

Loch Ardinning

Jude apologised for ‘another flowery walk’.  Is she mad?  Good old King George V!

Kerdhva Gov Jori V  (didn’t know I could speak Cornish- did you?)

You can always rely on Paula to find true beauty, even when she’s sleepy.  This is exquisite!

Sing me a lullaby

A guy with a wicked sense of humour, Cardinal’s style is unique :

Fitness and Relax Toilets

I have a cousin in Toronto. Maybe I should pay him a surprise visit one day?

Junkboat Travels: Monday Walks

Will I EVER tire of the beauty of the Grand Canyon?  I doubt it!

Walk on a Timeline (One Long Step= 1 Million Years)

I get to sit alongside Paula while Lucile pedals this week!  Don’t miss this!

Virtual Bike Ride with Jo and Paula

You can always depend on Debbie for variety!  I wonder where next?

A Walk along Berlin’s Landwehrkanal

Laia’s post simply shimmers with colour and beauty (and blue ice!)  Another one not to miss!

Fox Glacier and lake Matheson : do not believe in postcards

And while we’re in that part of the world, here’s a fascinating walk in Tasmania, with Ruth :

Waterworks, pipelines and falls

Jaspa keeps on going back to Venice.  Well, why wouldn’t you?

The Irresistible Lure of Venice

Lots of shares again this week.  I expect you’ve seen a few of them around the blogs, but please make time for any you’ve missed. There are some fabulous contributions.  And if you have any spare time, Monday Escapes are acquiring a steady stream of followers.  If only I could find more time!

Have a happy week and watch out for that heatwave!  See you next Monday?

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : City of Norwich
The headstone at Norwich Castle

A plaque at the entrance to Norwich Castle

Few things in life flow entirely smoothly, do they?  I thought I’d scored a major success when the friendly driver of our National coach proposed an outing to Norwich on the tour’s ‘free’ day.  I’d spent one glorious day boating on the Broads, if you remember, and had arranged to meet with the remainder of the Polish family in Norwich the next day.  Perfect synchronicity!

Arriving in good time, I found a sunny bench on which to deposit Dad, with his newspaper, to await the family, while I hightailed it up to Norwich Castle. (not the best of benches, Jude– Dad complained because the back had broken off.  No pleasing some folk!)  It being Sunday, the castle was closed till 1pm but the views were sure to be good.

It was a solid looking building
With views down over the city
And a useful lift!

As usual, click on a photo to open the galleries

Norwich Castle dates back to the Norman Conquest.  It was noted in the Domesday Book that 98 Saxon homes were demolished to make way for the castle.  Unfortunately I didn’t have time to go inside, but the link will give you an insight.

Back to my story.  Receiving a text from Grażyna to say they’d arrived, I scurried back down to Castle Meadow.  Standing hopefully beside Dad, we watched the approaching cars.  ‘Is that them?’  ‘No, it’s a taxi’…. ‘Is that them?’  ‘No, it’s a taxi’…. ‘Is that…?’  The moral of the story is, don’t wait for someone to collect you on Castle Meadow.  It is reserved for coaches and taxis only!  Fortunately, because Dad’s not so mobile these days, we only had to walk 50 metres down to the next junction to meet the family.

Anyone for a game in the castle grounds?

Anyone for a game, in the castle grounds?

Before leaving the area, don’t miss the beautiful shopping arcades, just opposite the castle.  The Royal Arcade, designed by George Skipper, opened in 1899.

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I thought that Wikipedia’s Great Yarmouth page was big, but the one for Norwich is huge!  An obvious sign of the importance of the city.  The first thing I learnt was that it sits on the River Wensum, and you can travel by boat from Norwich all the way to Great Yarmouth, via the River Yare.  I would like that!

I didn’t know that in the 11th century, Norwich was the largest city in England, after London, nor that in company with Edinburgh, Kraków, and others, it is a UNESCO City of Literature.  But I might have guessed that its origins go back to Roman times.  The city walls, some of which are still visible, were built between 1280 and 1340 and were 4 kilometres long.  One of the things that I did notice is that Norwich has a lot of churches.  Many no longer have a religious function, but the buildings have been preserved. (I even saw one which was a puppet theatre!)

A chunk of city wall

A chunk of city wall

With Dad settled at my cousin Wojtek’s home, it was time to take a walk into the city.  Heading for the cathedral, I crossed the river for the first time.  A sign promising ‘One of Norfolk’s hidden secrets’ and the view beyond the garden gate stopped me in my tracks.  I had stumbled upon the Bishop’s House Garden on a day when it was opening for charity!

A first look at the River Wensum

A first look at the River Wensum

Imagine a garden with the cathedral as backdrop!
Topiary and fountains
And exquisite blue poppies

 

The borders were crammed full of planting
The ruins of Bishop Salmons Porch
The cathedral silently looming

This 4 acre garden has belonged to the Bishops of Norwich for over 900 years.  The open day was in full swing, with draughts and snakes and ladders set out on the immaculate lawns, and a cello playing in the background.  The perfect setting for such a lovely day but time, as so often, was my enemy.  For the history and more photos see the link above.

A pretty ‘face’, looking directly at the Cathedral
A fine example of a Norfolk flint-faced building
The mighty Cathedral

Approaching the Cathedral, the architecture is varied and beautiful.  I enter through the cloisters.

The heraldry is beautiful

The heraldry in the alcoves is delicate and lovely

Norwich Cathedral was begun in 1096 and completed in 1145.  It was constructed from flint and mortar, and faced with cream-coloured Caen limestone.  The building has real presence, and many quiet corners for reflection.  A new refectory provides the main entrance and a space for contemporary art exhibitions.

The architecture in Norfolk is often highly distinctive due to the use of flushwork.  This was popular in Medieval times, in areas without a good local building stone.  Flushwork creates a flat flint wall where the stone is ‘flush’ to the wall.  Decorative patterns and motifs can be used for variety.  The Ethelbert Gate below is a beautiful example.

The Guildhall in Market Place
St. Ethelbert’s Gate, one of the entrances to the Cathedral complex

I saunter around the Market Place, with its fine Guildhall and market stalls, then turn towards the river and ‘home’.  The family are preparing a barbecue and I shouldn’t be too late.

Back to the river and meandering home

Back to the river, meandering home

It must be time to meet the family, don’t you think?  Well, here they are- from left to right, Mateusz, Kasia, Arek and Mariusz (at the back!), Agnieszka, Jarek and Grażyna (the boat owners), cousin Wojtek, Dad and Basia.

No excuses for the lion!

No apologies for the lion- he came with the house!

I hope you enjoyed my walk around Norwich.  There are numerous facts in the links I’ve provided, if you have time or interest.  But you need to save some time to join my happy band of walkers again this week.

Many thanks to everybody!  At least two cups of coffee will be required.

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I have many wonderful shares again this week.  If you’re thinking of joining me, click on the Jo’s Monday walk logo for a few simple facts.  Let’s get going, shall we?

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Drake was first past the gate post again this week.  Join him in Alsace… and across the river  :

Hospitality across the river

Jude’s flower images are always a delight.  Did you know she has this second blog?

Garden Portrait: Glendurgan

Anabel has found me some wonderful waterfalls this week  :

Lake District walks: Elterwater circle

A lover’s house on the Mekong!  Sound intriguing?

Vietnam- Marguerite Duras

Amy’s trees in the Canyon are one of the most beautiful things I have seen all week!

Monday Walk: Trees in Grand Canyon 

Back down to earth for a Suffolk walk with Geoff.  Lovely irises!

Bulcamp to Halesworth and back again

You will love this small piece of Tasmanian paradise!  Many thanks, Ruth  :

Bruny Island

And if it didn’t keep hiding in a vale of cloud ….

Playing hide-and-seek in Franz Josef Glacier

Gently does it in northern France, with a little haiku from Viv  :

Happy Haiku Chain

For a sunburst of colour, I defy you to find anywhere better than Valparaiso!

The Hills of Valparaiso, Chile- UNESCO city of colour and steps

I love industrial heritage walks, especially beside water, and this one from Karen is a beauty  :

A walk in Riverside Park, Manhattan

Rub your eyes!  You might not believe that this Causeway is in Australia (but the beach is a bit of a giveaway)

A walk to the Giants Causeway

Richard is another Cornwall fan so he and Jude will get along just great!

History and beachlife on the Porthtowan to Wheal Coates coastal walk

Wherever you end up this week, I hope you enjoy it.  We’ve passed the solstice now.  Hope it’s not all down hill!  See you next Monday?

Jo’s Monday walk : more Yarmouth!
Anyone remember these?

Anyone remember these?

If you saw my Six word Saturday this week you’ll know that I was recently in Great Yarmouth.  For me it was a trip way back down Memory Lane, to the days when I had very little money and holidays were spent in caravans.  This time I used Yarmouth as a base from which to visit family, but for old times sake I had to take a bit of a walk around. Perhaps you’d like to join me.

But first, did that photo trigger any memories?  It stopped me dead in my tracks!  It carried me right back to the amusement arcades of my youth.  The simple joy of pounding those firemen with water and trying to knock them all down!  I don’t think I ever fully succeeded, but how I enjoyed trying.  In this age of technology I could hardly believe my eyes.  If only the attendant had been there, I could have tried my luck again.

While I’m wallowing in nostalgia I might as well take you to the model village on the sea front. It’s as good a place as any to start but, as it’s closed, we’ll have to look in through the fence.

I might have spent a little while there but, deprived of the opportunity, I decided to check out the beach.  I’m probably a little spoilt when it comes to beaches.  This one did not score too highly.

I didn't mind the little bit of dunes

I didn’t mind the little bit of dune (and Winter Gardens in the background)

Or the old wooden pier supports
But the beach was full of pebbles
And rather gritty

Click on any photo in the group to open the galleries

Wellington Pier's an interesting shape (note the benches)

Modern Wellington Pier has an exotic shape

For all of its seaside bluster, Great Yarmouth is a town with a rich history.  The Wikipedia entry, from which I am quoting, is surprisingly big.  It has been a seaside resort since 1760 and lies on a thin spit of land sandwiched between the North Sea and the River Yare.  The gateway to the Norfolk Broads, and just 20 miles from the city of Norwich, I was interested to note that Daniel Defoe compared the town favourably with that city in his travel journals :

‘Yarmouth is an antient town, much older than Norwich; and at present, tho’ not standing on so much ground, yet better built; much more compleat; for number of inhabitants, not much inferior; and for wealth, trade, and advantage of its situation, infinitely superior to Norwich.’

He goes on to say that its quay is the finest in England, and not even inferior to Marseilles!  Of course, I had to go and see the quay for myself.  But not before I took a look at the Winter Gardens and Britannia Pier, both of which are Grade II listed.

The beach huts on the front have seen a recent coat of paint

The beach huts on the front have seen a recent coat of paint

But not so the Winter Gardens
Though at dusk they continue to sparkle

It’s a shame that, in its prime location alongside the Wellington Pier, the stately Winter Gardens have fallen into disrepair.  The cast iron framed glass structure was shipped by barge all the way from Torquay, on the south coast, in 1903.

Continuing along the front it’s almost impossible to avoid a pirate or two.  No need to worry. They’re mostly harmless and intent on spying on the mini golf.

The empty June beach and Britannia Pier
I couldn’t resist a peep in the swimming baths!
Forlorn pier stumps
What’s there? A wind farm!
Promises much!
And the window reveals….
Ahoy there!

Ahoy there!

A rather jaunty angle!
Plus a lighthouse
And a good vantage point

Turning your back on the seafront, follow Regent Road through the town and out to South Quay, to step into a different world.  Victoria Arcade is a shopping mall in the old style, and it’s easy to spot the traditional Norfolk flint-faced buildings.

Victoria Arcade
With pretty stained glass windows
And a traditional stone pub

Remember Defoe and his liking for the quay?  He also refers to ‘merchants houses, which look like little palaces, rather than the dwelling-houses of private men’.  Charles Dickens stayed at the Royal Hotel on Marine Drive while writing ‘David Copperfield’, and used Yarmouth as a key location for the book.  He was much taken with the place.

In the early 18th century, Yarmouth was a thriving herring port and this lasted for a couple of hundred years.  When the fishing industry declined in the second half of the 20th century, Yarmouth was saved by the discovery of oil in the North Sea.  Today it services offshore natural gas rigs, and the town has been keen to develop renewable energy in the form of a wind farm. 30 generators stand tall on Scroby Sands- a different kind of windmill for the Broads.

Merchant’s House on South Quay
Looking toward the Broads
The Star Hotel
A canon from the Napoleonic Wars alongside an elderly fishing smack

A canon from the Napoleonic Wars alongside an elderly herring boat

The Lydia Eva is the last surviving steam drifter of the herring fleet and is being preserved as a floating museum.  But she is dwarfed by her new neighbours.

New kids on the block

New kids on the block

With a little more time I would like to have gone on board Lydia Eva, and to have visited the Elizabethan House and Great Yarmouth Row Houses.  Perhaps even the museum dedicated to Admiral Horatio Nelson. (‘I am a Norfolk man and I glory in being so’).  I did just manage to catch a glimpse of Nelson’s Monument, tucked away at the end of the promenade.

Just a hint of Nelson's Monument, behind the dunes

A hint of Nelson’s Monument, behind the sand dunes and Arek

National Trust have designed a Yarmouth Heritage Trail  complete with map- a good idea if you’re in the area.  I think next week I should take you to Norwich to make a comparison.

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So there’s another week gone by!  Hope you enjoyed the walk, and many thanks to all my contributors.  If you’d like to join in my Jo’s Monday walk, click on the logo above for details.  I’d be delighted to have you along.  Let’s put the kettle on now and settle in for a good read.

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We’re starting in Berlin this week, with Debbie :

Walking the East Side Gallery

Pretty, winding streets always make me smile.  Thanks, Drake!

Just around the corner

Don’t you love this wonderful world of friends we’ve created?

Wild orchids for Meg, meeting Marathon Man, then Elderflower sorbet to finish

Violet Sky has the perfect bench shot!  Have you seen it, Jude?

Milngavie

I rather fancy a walk beside Lake Ontario.  You too?

Monday Walks

At the Grand Canyon, Amy suggests we can see

Mules, Bikers, Hikers, Elk…

Geoff sounds suicidal, but I know he doesn’t mean it!

Ending it all: the Thames Path and reaching the source

Jude is always good company.  She would soon cheer him up!

Boscastle Harbour Walk

I have two authors keeping me company this week.  What a privileged lady I am!  Please welcome Dianne Gray.  I hope many of you know her :

Back in action

Rare birds or pirates?  I’m going for pirates, of course!  Please welcome newcomer Denzil to my walks :

Meldert: A mystery bird and a family of pirates

And I’m ending with a wonderful Summery Swedish walk with Viveka.  Don’t miss it!

Detour to the post office

Fantastic contributions again this week.  Aren’t you spoilt?  I also want to give a ‘shout out’ to another Monday feature, Monday Escapes  .  I never seem to have the time to join in but there’s some great stuff in there.

Have a wonderful week ahead and I hope to see you next Monday (when you might get to meet the Norfolk family).