Harbourside in Bristol
Everywhere looks better with blue skies and Bristol’s waterfront is no exception. I thought my luck had changed on the last day of my visit, as the skies turned to steely grey and the damp stuff arrived. But Bristol didn’t let me down. One cappuchino and a visit to the cathedral later, a walk along the waterfront became a distinct possibility. So, what are we waiting for?
I have to confess that the photo above was taken from on board the Bristol Packet. Everything doesn’t always go to plan, and when I turned up for a guided walking tour of the city I was told that it had been cancelled. ‘Too many people in the city’, due to the Balloon Festival, was the reason given. Nothing for it but to take to the water. No hardship there- but I digress!
Bristol’s Floating Harbour is a huge tribute to the resourcefulness of man. In 1809, 80 acres of tidal river were impounded to begin the taming of the estuary. Bristol had developed at the most downstream point at which it was possible to cross the River Avon, 6 miles inland.
The tidal range of the Bristol Channel is the second greatest of any in the world. The tide can rise and fall as much as 14 metres twice a day. This was an advantage and a disadvantage for sailing ships in the old days. They could be carried all the way to Bristol on the current, but equally well they could be stranded in the mud when the tide turned. Bristol merchants had to think of a way of damming the river, allowing the ships that were in the river to stay afloat. Thus, a ‘floating harbour’. I found a fascinating video which explains in more detail.
The cathedral is just beyond the Floating Harbour and I headed for Watershed, a good-looking building which now houses the Tourist Information Office. A series of cafes and restaurants line the harbourside, and behind these are Bristol Aquarium and the Science Centre. Plenty to do on a rainy day, and interesting exhibits outside too.
The water feature was first to attract my attention
But something interesting was going on in the background!
There was a solar energy project, and sculptures I rather liked too. Black and white, for Paula.
Rather damp to be a scribe!
The sky still a little heavy, I returned to the waterfront and continued to follow it inland. Modern and stylish apartments sit back from the promenade, interspersed with cafes and bars.
Heading around the waterfront
Life on a narrowboat?
Beside the ruins of a former mill
And in the background, the ‘SS Great Britain’
Isambard Kingdom Brunel, designer of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, was one of the engineering giants of the 19th century. At age just 27 he was chief engineer of the Great Western Railway, linking Bristol to London. He then turned his attention to trans-Atlantic travel, and his steam ship ‘The Great Western’ crossed the ocean from Bristol to New York in 1838, a journey of 15 days.
Her successor, ‘SS Great Britain’, was the world’s first iron passenger liner. At the time of her launch in 1843 she was the largest ship in the world, and had an innovative screw propeller in place of conventional paddle wheels. She had a long and illustrious career, sailing the world as a passenger ship for 30 years, before converting to cargo. Old and tired, she was finally recovered from the Falklands and returned to Bristol as a hulk in 1970. Restoration has seen her take pride of place today as a first class visitor attraction, in the dock in which she was originally built.
‘SS Great Britain’ visitor centre
Do you remember my friend, ‘On the Waterfront’?
Junction Lock Bridge leading to Cumberland Basin
Is anybody hungry?
I had promised myself a visit to ‘The Pump House’ when I passed it on my long walk home from the Balloon Festival. The building housed the original hydraulic pumping system for operating the lock gates, and is a beautiful conversion. As luck would have it the rain was starting again- the perfect excuse.
When the rain eased, I continued on towards the lock into the Avon Gorge. The current lock was opened in 1873 and can accommodate the largest ships that can navigate the Avon. From here it is 6 miles by water to the mouth of the river, where it joins the Severn estuary. Ahead you can see Clifton Suspension Bridge, but beyond this point a busy road runs close to the river, and it becomes less appealing to follow.
A tour boat passes through the lock
The logical thing to do, if you have the stamina, is to cross over the harbour and return along the opposite shore of the waterfront. You could call in at the SS Great Britain or visit the Museum of Bristol in M-Shed. The wharves here were wiped out during heavy bombing in the Blitz and this free museum tells the story of the city.
Another alternative is to catch a ferry. There are numerous ferry stops along the river, and you can travel all the way round to Temple Meads station (another Brunel wonder) if you wish. It was my last day in Bristol and I wanted to see a little more of Clifton Village, so I rather foolishly clambered back up the steep side of the gorge. Maybe we’ll have time for a look at the village another day, but for now I’m going to amble back along the quay, in my watery element.
Making the most of the sunshine
Now I’m back at my start point on St. Augustine’s Reach, named for the abbey church of St. Augustine (now Bristol Cathedral). The Reach was the course of the River Frome, diverted into this man-made trench in 1247. You will see from the Floating Harbour video that the water once continued into what is now Millenium Square and the heart of the city. I have still to mention Pero’s Bridge (a reference to an enslaved African boy) and then our walking tour is done.
And all ends peacefully
I expect you’re a little tired, but the good news is that I’m missing from the walks for two weeks so you can have a lovely rest. I hope you’ve enjoyed looking at Bristol as much as I did. And now it’s surely time to put that kettle on!
Before I go I have some more wonderful walks to share with you. Thank you so much for all the support and encouragement I receive. If you have any walks that you would like to link up, now or in the future, the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo. Do, please!
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I think I spotted a friend on the beach at Le Havre, with thanks to Drake!
Not quite so cheery trawling a graveyard but the company is good. Cheers, Jude!
Nobody does reflection like Suzanne! Or Impressionism, come to that :
You will not believe how gorgeous these shoes are in stained glass! Thanks, Jackie!
But you can believe that when Amy posts photos of Banff they are fantastic!
Monday walk : Exploring Banff Lakes
Equally beautiful, even with a hint of snow, Ruth tiptoes along a mountain path :
Jaspa is back this week with a South American saga :
Exploring Lima’s Historic Centre on foot
And, responding magnificently to the WP weekly challenge…. thank you, Gilly!
Becky has shared a wonderful reminder of why I’m looking forward to the Algarve this week :
Thanks everybody, and that just leaves me to say that bright and early on Thursday I will be heading south. I hope to catch up with all of you before I go, and there might even be another post. Look after yourselves, happy walking and I’ll see you soon. While I’m gone you might like to try a Monday Escape?
I was recommended to you by http://geofflepard.wordpress.com/ and already I’ve found so many other intrepid walkers/bloggers thanks to this site,so thank so much. 🙂
Great post, Bristol is such a lovely city, here’s my entry for next week: http://studentinsnowdonia.com/2015/08/15/memories-of-ireland-mount-brandon/
Hi and nice to meet you! 🙂 Got a huge job on my hands in catching up and in getting my head around being back in England but I’ll come and read about Mount Brandon tomorrow. 🙂
Wonderful virtual tour – as always – and thank you for taking me there! Bye. Kamila
Thanks for your company, Kamila. Hope life’s been treating you well. 🙂
The walk was cancelled because there was too many people…? Haha, surprising 🙂
I finally got a good internet connection to post my last walk, after two weeks! I guess by now you are already enjoying Algarve but anyway, there it is, for your return:
https://colibrist.wordpress.com/2015/08/31/rotorua-maori-culture-geothermal-activity/
Have a nice trip!
Strange but true! I’m in the Alentejo at present with a hotel Wifi connection but only overnight so I’ll catch up at home. Many thanks Laia x
Your blog is great! I really loved this post on Bristol.
Thanks a lot! I’ll come visit when I’m home again.
Many thanks for your kind words. Will struggle to catch up with you before my short visit to Poland but things should settle down after that. 🙂
Love the Ling boats Jo. I would love to rent one and take my time crusing down the rivers visiting quant villages.
Sounds fun!
Very interesting tour of the Bristol Waterfront Jo! With Monsieur Le Chic’s family coming from Somerset I’m very familiar with the city centre and seeing the port from the M5 but have never actually walked round the front. Sounds like there is a lot to do down there! Temple Meads is a fine looking station – have been through it on many occasions and caught the train up to London from there last year. With my family in Yorkshire and Monsieur’s down in the west I’m very used to the Cross Country train route (his sister lives in Cheltenham so I stop off there too!). Hope you’re enjoying some lovely sunny weather in the Algarve and will catch up with Monday Walks when you get back! 🙂
Fabulous thanks! We made it up to the Alentejo for the night. Always love somewhere new x
A lot of work to make those windows.
I’m surprised to see Saun the Sheep here. 🙂
I like surprises Cardinal!
Girlfriend, you have been really busy .. here is something I have to walk more of .. I just did the beginning. What a fantastic area. A pity that I missed out on that amazing fountain and the whales, but they are only temporary, but I’m sure it will be something else by the time I’m back in Bristol. Wonderful walk – I thoroughly enjoyed it .. even if my feet is scream a little. Lovely, lovely.
Mick is collapsed on the hotel bed. No staying power some people! Found some beautiful coastline today. Sending sunshine hugs xxx
I would be very surprised if you didn’t find something to put your little camera against. Evening hug … after the rain. *smile
Rain? What does that look like? No, maybe I shouldn’t tempt fate. Off I go to breakfast then heading sunnily south. Take care and enjoy Berlin xxx
Good Morning … not that envy really on the your sun … this morning some thunder and it sure will rain … but Mother Nature needs it. You enjoy your sunny days and I promise I will enjoy Berlin, hard not to. *smile
Jo, what a delightful walk this week and boat ride. I so enjoy your walks.
This week, mine is a city walk too – http://wp.me/p4X4U3-rZ
I’m at the airport on my way to the Algarve Ruth. Boarding imminently. Thank you x
Seems I have a lot of work to do next time I get to Bristol, Jo! In return, here’s a walk around the Streets of Santiago, Chile: https://jaspasjourney.wordpress.com/2015/08/26/the-streets-of-santiago-chile/
Sounds good, Jaspa! Hope it won’t be too hot? I’m keeping an eye on temperatures in the Algarve. Doubt much walking will be done there, except on the beach. Many thanks! 🙂
Actually, it was the perfect temperature, Jo. Have fun in the Algarve!
I really like that whale sculpture with the plastic bottles. What a great idea to raise awareness. It was a fascinating walk all around, with so much history, so many views of boats and the water ~ always good! Have fun on your holiday, Jo! 🙂
I expect I’ll be out on a boat or two, Cathy 🙂 It’s pretty warm still over in the Algarve.
I did find Bristol an interesting city all round. Thanks, darlin’.
I know you’ll be on a boat if you can, Jo! I’m envious. I love nothing better than being on a boat, especially in a place as lovely as the Algarve! 🙂
Just about touched down, Cathy 🙂 Fantastic time and my head’s still back in the Algarve (on one of many boat rides 🙂 ) Hope things are good with you. I’ll come for a catch up soon as I can.
I’m so far behind in answering comments, Jo, that now you have touched down after your time in the Algarve and now you’re off again to Poland! That’s what I get for not being very organized with my time. I know you had a grand time in Portugal, as you always do! Have fun at the Polish wedding on Saturday. xxx
Thoroughly enjoyed your Monday walk through fascinating Bristol. The video is very interesting. My ancestors on my mother’s side were Jessops, but not engineers to my knowledge. 😉
I had read a little of the history, Ann, but I think the video helped to visualise. Quite an endeavour, wasn’t it? Yes- I can see you as being a pioneering Jessop 🙂
I must recheck the family history and see where they sailed from when they left the UK for NZ.
Wonderful walk, fascinating photos added interesting words… 🙂
Thanks a lot, Drake, and for your wonderful contribution too 🙂
The waterfront is certainly beautiful… being by the water always makes me happy! 🙂
I love the huge whales, what a great idea!
Thank you for being with us once again on #MondayEscapes Jo 😀
have a wonderful week!
My week should reach perfection on Thursday, but I don’t have any complaints so far. 🙂 Yes- anywhere with water is a sure bet for me too. Thanks to you for being such a lovely hostess.
Ohhhh that sounds exciting 😀 I hope you have fun!!
You’re most welcome Jo 😀
What an interesting walk Jo. I was very taken with those wale sculptures and using all those plastic bottles, they made a lovely swirling sea scape. The video was very interesting too, just amazing how they solved the problem of the tides.
Enjoy your holiday and I’ll look forward to seeing all about it when you get back.
Safe travels…
The break in Bristol was just long enough to see lots but leave me wanting more, Pauline. The place gave me a very good feeling. And the balloons… WOW! 🙂
Thank you! We’ll catch up when we’re both in one place again (but not the same one 😦 )
Those balloons were sensational Jo and it would be good to have a cuppa together.