Algarve

Thursday: Lingering look at windows, week 29

Canvas portraits of windows in Casa das Portas

Canvas portraits of windows in Casa das Portas.

I’m focusing on a very particular group of windows this week.  Don’t be fooled by the dilapidated appearance of the wall above.  It’s part of a real and well deserved success story in Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve.  The shop, Casa das Portas (House of Doors), features the work of local artist Jane Gibbin.  Like myself, Jane fell in love with Tavira, spending hours photographing the local doors and windows.

The photos always seem to create a talking point.  As you’ve probably seen from some of my posts, Tavira has a delightfully down at heel look and is a great subject to work with.  Ten years ago, looking for something distinctive, but not too expensive, for the bare walls in our Tavira home, I was much taken with Jane’s doors and windows.  Poster form was the cheapest, so we selected three, had them framed, and today they have pride of place in our living room.

You can barely just see two of the framed posters here

You can barely just see two of the framed posters here

Jane started out with a market stall selling her photographs then, as interest grew, progressed to a shop in the warren of back streets.  As well as the photographs and posters there’s an eclectic mix of objects for the home, and pretty jewellery pieces.  I often stick my nose in and the assistant is unfailingly polite, even though I seldom buy.

In July 2011 success was confirmed when Jane opened a second shop, right beside Ponte Romana; a prime target for tourists.  The ideas continue to flow and at my last visit there were some lovely small canvases with paintings of the doors.  I was very tempted, as was Cathy who was staying with me at the time.  Her luggage was already overflowing, so she dived into a colourful heap of scarves instead.

My photos aren’t the best as I had one or two distractions that night (yes, Cathy!), but I’ve wanted to tell the story of the shops for a while.  For a clearer idea of them you might visit the Casa das Portas Facebook page.

I hope Dawn doesn’t mind a slightly different style of lingering at my windows (and doors) this week.  Please visit her at Lingering Visions to see the other entries, and maybe add one of your own.

Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge: Locks, knockers and handles

I've rarely seen a more extravagant door knocker

I’ve rarely seen a more elaborate door knocker, if a bit chipped!

I’m very often admiring of the door knockers and handles in the Algarve, and when I saw the subject of Cee’s photo challenge this week- well, you just knew I’d want to share them, didn’t you?  They’re so elegant.

Thanks, Cee, for giving me another excuse to revisit a wonderful holiday.  That’s it!  No more. (well, not till the next time, anyway)

Off now to check out some more entries to Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge.  Click the link and come with me.

Six word Saturday

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Holiday over and back to “normal”.

"Sunshine on trhe water makes me happy" - John Denver

“Sunshine on the water makes me happy” – John Denver

Except it isn’t really normal at all!  I can’t remember the last time we had a whole July’s worth of sunshine.  No complaints, then.

I love that little stretch of water from Cabanas to the Ilha.

I love that little stretch of water from Cabanas to the Ilha.

But I can’t seem to shake the Algarve completely out of my head.  Maybe if I post another photo or two?

The good life?

The good life?  I think so.

The Carmo Church was having its yearly celebration

The Carmo Church was having its yearly celebration

By evening time it was spectacularly lit

By evening time it was spectacularly lit

And then there was the procession

And then there was the procession of Nossa Senhora

And a moonlight wander afterwards.

And a moonlight wander homewards.

That’s me done dreaming for this week.  Feet firmly back on the ground tomorrow?  Meantime I need to thank Cate at Show My Face for her unending patience in hosting this challenge.  The link or the header will take you there.

How was your week?  Put it in six words and join in?  The button below takes you to all my previous Six word saturdays. (yes, all of them!)

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Thursday : Lingering look at windows, week 28

The Camara or Council Offices in Tavira. I love the fountains.

The Camara or Council Offices in Tavira. I love these fountains at night.

Well, where else would it be this week?  The Algarve, of course.  In Tavira alone I gazed at lots of windows.  Linger with me?

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I collected a few more on my wanderings last trip.  Here are just a couple.  I’ll save some for a rainy day (hush, don’t mention that word!)

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I’m lowering the lights with Tavira, and off to check out Dawn’s and the other entries for this week’s Lingering look at Windows.  See you there?

Romantic by evening

Romantic by evening

Meeting a Catbird

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Cathy in Alte

Never having met one before, I wasn’t at all sure if meeting a Catbird would be scarey.  You can tell from the smile on Cathy’s face that it was anything but.  In fact, from the second we met, we were nattering away like old pals, and by the time we’d dragged her humungous purple suitcase to the car, we were well into our life stories.

Cathy’s is convoluted, and mine not as straightforward as you might think, so it all took some time to unravel.  We each had remembered snippets about the other, but needed to explore the detail.  And what fun that was.

For any of you not familiar, a little background.  Cathy Dutchak, an American lady, has been working in the Gulf State of Oman for the past eighteen months, and before that in Korea.  Intriguing, yes?  When I came across A native in the Land of Niswa I just had to know more.  I followed Cathy through the ups and downs of life in the rich Arab world and marvelled at the beauties her photography revealed.

Then Cathy announced that her time over there was up and, before returning to the USA, she was spending a month touring Spain and Portugal.  It coincided with a visit I was making to Tavira, so how could I not offer a little hospitality? (but a touch nervously, still not too sure what kind of creature a Catbird might be)  How glad I am that I did.

Time went all too quickly.  We discovered a love of boats in common and, as the temperatures were into the 30s, an expedition onto the water seemed a good idea.  The birdwatching and historical tour of the Ria Formosa was perfect (but not before a visit to the Post Office to try to dispose of some of Cathy’s rapidly accumulating luggage- more of that later!)

Off we chugged from the quayside at Tavira

Off we chugged from the quayside at Tavira

Wasn't there a "Tilted" challenge out there somewhere?

Isn’t there a “Tilted” challenge out there somewhere? Good candidate!

I hope you'rte not expecting great bird photography? He's out there- look closely!

I hope you’re not expecting great bird photography? Look very closely!

But I do get better as we approach the lovely village of Santa Luzia

But I do get better as we approach the lovely village of Santa Luzia

Our skipper was concentrating- don't want to ram a fishing boat

Our skipper was concentrating- don’t want to ram a fishing boat

And there were lots

And there were lots

And lots

And lots

And a catamaran

And a catamaran

And the Santa Luzia ferry

The Santa Luzia ferry

And more boats

And more fishing boats

More?  Enough, I think!

More?  Enough, I think!

Then we headed down the channel to the sea, to look back at Tavira Island

Then we headed down the channel to the sea, to look back at Tavira Island

Then back to shore, past the twin lighthouses

And returned to shore, passing the twin lighthouses.

Back on dry land there was much to see, and we leaped into the car and off to the hills and the village of Alte.  It’s a favourite of mine and I’ve written about it and been there many times.  Today was about finding a cool spot beside the fontes, or springs, and a cafe extraordinaire for refreshments.

I think the cat succeeded

I think the cat succeeded

Who says the Algarve isn't green?

Who says the Algarve isn’t green?

Our cafe is also a shop crammed full of ceramics like these.

Our cafe is also a shop crammed full of ceramics like these.

Cathy very much likes ceramic tiles and the Moorish connection, so it was on through cork and eucalyptus country to Silves, with its mighty fortress.  I was there in May this year, resulting in S is for Silves, but a few more photos had to be taken.  I was pleased to find the Igreja da Misericordia open for an art exhibition, a reward in itself.

We were warm and tired when we made it home, but after a brief “feet up” we were out again, in search of food.  At some point I’m sure you’ll read Cathy’s version of this, so all I’m going to say is that she provided enormous entertainment for Luis and Philippe, the owner and the waiter in “A Taska”.  The food was delicious, as usual, but while I simply nodded and smiled my approval, Cathy went into full blogger mode.

Charm turned up full (with maybe a little extra confidence from the port), she proceeded to photograph the decor, the menu, the food, and of course, Luis and Phillipe.  “She’s funny” said the latter, rolling his dark eyes and minding not a bit.  Then it was onto the streets, and straight into the nearest shop.  Did I mention that Cathy likes to shop?  “Casa das Portas” is a very beautiful place to do it, but for once restraint was exercised.

"Casa das Portas" with some of its iconic door paintings

“Casa das Portas” with some of its iconic door paintings

The case was rather full, and I ended up bringing a good amount of her clothing back to the UK in my hand luggage.  She had already shipped some home from Barcelona and I did not want to waste more of the holiday queuing at our post office. It is speeding its way to the USA right now.  Goodness knows what purchases she might have made in Lisbon, but the Spanish skirts I saw were extremely nice.

We wandered the warm Tavira night, in search of a promised fig and almond icecream, which sadly we never found.  I was sorry to disappoint.  But one thing for sure, Cathy did not disappoint me.  I learnt a lot, and I laughed a lot, and I think we will be lifelong friends.

Me and Cathy, having fun.

Me and Cathy, having fun.

The Golden Hour

The Military Bridge, Tavira

The Military Bridge, Tavira

Seen from the quayside

Seen from the quayside

And I guess you all know this one?  Ponte Romana.

And I guess you all know this one? Ponte Romana.

But this is my favourite. The umbrellas look like ghosts.

But this is my favourite. The umbrellas look like ghosts.

I knew I wouldn’t be able to resist being drawn into this week’s photo challenge.  As soon as I saw the theme I was back on that riverbank in my head.  Hope you like the results.

Who wouldn’t want to take photos at this delectable time of day?  Check out the numerous wonderful entries at The Golden Hour.

Six word Saturday

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Verão em Tavira- Summer in Tavira

Tavira council organises Verão em Tavira, a running programme of free outdoor events in the evenings over the Summer months.  Just as the day starts to cool a little, the whole world takes to the streets.  Click on the gallery above for a closer look.

And when your holiday is enlivened by the presence of another blogger- well, more of that to follow, but here’s my favourite photo of Cathy.

We went birdwatching on the Ria Formosa boat tour

We went birdwatching on the Ria Formosa boat tour

Appropriate really for someone who calls herself Catbird.  She was great company.  She flies back to the States on 25th July so I hope she’s enjoying every last moment of Portugal.  Wish I was still there.

Thanks Cate, at Show My Face, for being my kind hostess again on Six word Saturday this week.  I’ll be round later to see what you’ve all been up to while I was away.  Wonder what next week will bring?

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CBBH Photo challenge- same subject, different time

Marianne at East of Malaga knew I was going to be predictable in her CBBH challenge this month.  Well, when you know a lovely spot, why not share it?  So here we have Tavira, in the Eastern Algarve, at different times of day.

Ponte Romana in Tavira

Ponte Romana in Tavira

And in the evening, it gets better

And in the evening, it just gets better

And better, don't you think?

And better!  I love those reflections under the bridge.

And when the tide's in, it's different again.

And when the tide’s in, it’s different again.

I can’t compete with the drama of Marianne’s disappearing mountain.  It’s a stunner!  But by this stage of things I’m getting mellow, with a glass of port and the swifts for company.

I like the view in the other direction, too, looking away from the Ponte Romana to the Old Military bridge. (which is so old it has holes in!)

It's peaceful and calm in the evenings

It’s peaceful and calm as the sun sets

And sometimes the colours are simply stunning

And sometimes the opalescent colours are simply stunning

I don't take many full evening shots

Then the lights come on, and it’s different again

Maybe Cabanas is more your kind of place?  You won’t often see it this empty.

I can almost hear the clop of sandals on the boardwalk

No telltale clop of sandals on the boardwalk

Or flip flops!  Much more peaceful.

Ssh, flip flops are quieter!  Who IS that smiley lady?

Later in the day, there’s a little more vibrance.

Is this what's called a rosy hue?

I guess this is what’s called a rosy hue?

I’m not certain that this is quite what Marianne had in mind, but I’ve got 4 weeks before the challenge finishes, so I can always try again.

But first, let me introduce Ventisqueras.  Sometimes a blog comes along that really excites me, and this lady does exactly that.  We struggle with language because my Italian is just a few words, but sometimes that doesn’t matter.

I um and err when I have to choose blogs, but I know there are a lot of pet lovers out there.  I found Bailey Boat Cat quite recently and it did make me smile.  Such an elegant feline.  Enjoy checking them out and have a great month!

Six word Saturday

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No zumba for me this week

Wouldn’t you know that it’s a perfect English morning (at last!) and my normal Saturday morning walk down through the park to zumba would be a delight?  Instead I’m going to take you on an uphill walk which is the cause of my incapacity.  Then I might sit in the garden with a book- a novelty in itself! (and ignore the pile of ironing just a bit longer)

Unfortunately I wasn’t wearing the right kind of footwear, and as we scrambled back down again I could feel the damage to my toes.  It was the “quick route” down as everyone was starved and we were heading for a very nice restaurant as a reward for our efforts.

I struggle to get a shoe on and have been wearing flipflops ever since.  Still, I did enjoy the walk, and the company.  Hope you did too?  Don’t forget to visit Cate at Show My Face to see what’s been happening to everyone this week.  My Six word Saturdays are all on the button below.

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S is for Silves

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Silves is a city with a glorious past.  You can’t fail to know this from the second you set eyes on the rust red hilltop castle, dominating the town and its surrounds.  Always a sucker for faded glory, it was one of the first places I visited in the Algarve.  On my recent return, I wanted to inspect the castle gardens development.

My first visit to Silves in April 2007- Michael's photo

My first visit to Silves in April 2007- Michael’s beautiful photo

From earliest times, the Arade River was the route to the Portuguese interior used by Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians, drawn by copper and iron, mined in the Western Algarve.  With its strategic hilltop position, Silves was bound to attract the Romans, but wealth and prosperity began with the Moorish invasion of 714AD.  By the 11th century, Silves was capital of the Algarve and a rival in importance to Lisbon.

Nothing lasts, and with the power struggles in the Muslim world, Silves was briefly restored to Portugal in 1189.  King Sancho 1 laid seige to the city in a brutal and gruesome episode, only to loose it to the Moors two years later.  By the 1240s the tide was turning again.  The river began to silt up, cutting off the trade route to North Africa.  In 1534 the episcopal se was transfered from Silves to Faro, and the power transformation was complete.

The Roman bridge over the River Arade

The Roman Bridge over the River Arade

The riverside, where there is ample parking, is a good starting point for a journey through Silves.  The narrow 13th century bridge is a little reminiscent of that at Tavira, which perhaps explains my fondness.  Wandering slowly upwards through the historic centre, the streets are still laid out as they were in Medieval times.  The 16th century pillory, or pelourinho, is a reminder of harsher times.

The pillory on Rua Dr. Francisco Vieira

The pillory on Rua Dr. Francisco Vieira

With its back to the ancient city walls, on Rua das Portas de Loule, you can find the Archaelogical Museum.  It contains an Islamic water cistern, or well, from the 11th century.  18metres deep, a spiral staircase now leads to the bottom.

Climbing steadily on Rua de Se, you come to the cathedral, a stern looking structure.  In red sandstone, like the castle, it sits on the site of a former mosque.  The grandeur and sobriety continue inside.  Opposite is the Igreja de Misericordia.

The cathedral, on Rua de Se

The cathedral, on Rua de Se

Manueline doorframe of the Igreja da Misericordia

Manueline doorframe of the Igreja da Misericordia

It is when you finally arrive at the castle that your imagination can no longer resist the temptation to recreate the past.  It is the finest military monument in Portugal to survive from the Islamic period.  Of the eleven towers, two are “albarra”- solid structures, joined to the walls by an arch that supports the walk around the castle walls.  They defend the double entrance gateway.  The doorway of the “traitor’s gate” still exists.

The castle once housed the Alcacova, the Moorish “Palace of Verandas” so described in poetry of that time.  A huge subterranean water tank is the main feature of the surviving remains, but excavation is ongoing.  An attempt has been made to recreate the feel of those Moorish times, but with a modern twist.  The rills and fountains beloved of the Moors today exist in 21st century red brick, and a restaurant has been installed, with modern seating.  I think it’s a brave effort.

The cork industry, dried fruits and tourism were Silves’ salvation.  In high season expect it to be a very warm place.  Whenever you visit, the Mercado, near the riverside, will be bustling.  You could purchase from its numerous stalls for a picnic.  But the delicious barbecue smells of the neighbouring restaurants often prove irresistible.

I could hardly wait to get out of bed this morning to write this piece, having arrived back yesterday evening.  Hope you like it.  Thanks, as always, to Julie Dawn Fox for the A-Z  personal challenge.

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