Last day of Carnival 2020 and Moncarapacho was making the most of it. My Dad loved a party! It would have been his birthday today and I’m smiling as I think of him, tapping his stick and nodding his head to the music.
Jo’s Monday walk : Peaceful Pecháo
It all started with a restaurant. Some friends, who come to the Algarve a couple of times a year, particularly like to find new places to eat. And so it became a Thursday habit for a small group of us to meet for lunch. One such outing took us to Pecháo, a small village in the neighbourhood of Olháo. Fully sated from a lovely meal, I thought I might take a look at the village church. I was in luck, for it was open, and I slipped inside to look.
A couple were praying devoutly so I did not linger, but outside the church I stopped to read a notice board. Apparently a chapel has existed on this site since 1482, and the current Igreja de Sáo Bartolomeu probably dates from the 18th century. Close by the church the small ossuary, or bone chapel, took me by surprise. Reading that there was a ‘route of churches’, we decided to return for a walk one day.
And so, a couple of weeks later, I found myself and partner in crime back in Largo da Igreja, examining our surrounds more closely. Always one for the details, he had researched the walks, produced a map and decided which of three routes we should follow. PR5OLH, at 7.5km, was a level, easy walk, which suited because I was succumbing to a virus and not at my best, but not willing to stay at home on such a beautiful day.
The walk wound through the back streets of the village, past a series of ageing gardens. I was highly amused to find, at a convenient crossroads, a similarly aged chair beside a bench, and a waiting orange. (On our return, three elderly gentlemen sat side by side, orange presumably shared).
Leaving the village we crossed the Ribeira de Bela Mandil, where water must once have flowed. A path led alongside the dry stream, to the Nora de Viriato, an impressively solid-looking well. Bright Crocosmia blazed beside a wearying olive tree.
We made a circuit of lanes and tracks, passing immense polytunnels (papaya?) and a few beautiful villas, meanwhile attracting a number of unfriendly canines, some of whom wag their tails. I never know if this is a good sign, or not. Pretty pink cistus winked at us, blossom trees leaning into the breeze one last time. Confident of not getting the shot, I trailed a butterfly across a patch of Bermuda Buttercups. Outwitted every time.
Soon we were in sight of the village. The water tower, and cemetery- uncomfortably close neighbours, and yet they seem a natural fit.
But I know from long experience that your interest lies elsewhere. I should tell you that the lovely place we ate was called Gunther’s– not a typical village restaurant, but I can highly recommend it. No more Thursday luncheons for the time being, as our friends return to the UK this week.
Thank you for your patience. I can tell you that I am now fully recovered and that I will be walking with you again next week. After that I propose a short break while I get my thoughts in order. So, if you have a walk that you’re longing to share, please do it this week. You know the formula here on Jo’s Monday walk. And I’ll try to make you welcome.
Spring doesn’t always bring happiness. Pop over and give Eunice a hug?
Rosemay continues her wander down Memory Lane, in London’s lesser known haunts :
Off the Tourist Trail in London- Stoke Newington and Clissold Park
There have been a few complaints about the weather lately, but not from Drake!
We all dream of different things. Happy to view Janet’s from afar :
Jo’s Monday walk…my dream walk
But Irene says it’s been a mild winter :
Looking for an interesting Dutch city to explore? Debbie has the answer :
Or you can have fun entertaining a 4-year old, with Margaret :
While Cathy takes us into the world of the Berbers :
Morocco: Merzouga to El-Khorbat
And me? Well, it’s Carnival week. Not Rio, but doing our best. Take care till next time!
Six word Saturday
Some are happy, some are not
But everybody joins in at Carnival. And it was dry and sunny, unlike Debbie’s Six Words. Have a great weekend!
Jo’s Monday walk : Over the border
I’m keeping it short this week, rather like my trip to Spain. In fact, this is a visit I wasn’t planning to share, but sometimes, despite my best intentions, the camera starts clicking of it’s own volition. Before you know it, I’ve got another Monday walk!
I’ve mentioned several times that on Sundays I generally take part in Todos a Caminhar (Let’s all walk!). A health initiative, organised by the local council, the walks take part across the Algarve and, once a year, extend across the Guadiana to Ayamonte parish, on the Spanish border. Last year we went along, on a romp through salt marshes very similar to those in our Algarve. You might wonder about the point of this. On my part it was mostly curiosity. I wanted to see if it differed from the Algarve walks, and I always enjoy walking in new territory. No such excuse this year, but some friends wanted to go, so we volunteered to give them a lift.
As we neared the sports centre, venue for the walk last year, we remarked on the absence of cars. Last year they had lined the road. Worse still, when we parked up in Punta del Moral, the streets were empty. Puzzled, we listened for the sound of music or some sign of activity. Slowly it was dawning on us that we might be in the wrong place. Fortunately a number of others had made the same mistake, including a coachload of prospective walkers. When they radioed for help, and were obviously redirected, we scurried back to our car and followed. The venue was not as advertised, but in the nearby resort, Isla Canela. We arrived just in time to join the throng, and head off through the starting gate.
I assumed we would be heading across the salt marshes on roughly the same trajectory as last year, but no! We stayed on the footpath, and followed the road back in the direction from which we’d arrived. A bit of a disappointment, but it did mean a closer look at the Torre Canela. One of 40 towers, commissioned by Felipe II in the 1500s for the defence of the Andalucian coast, it was reluctantly paid for by a fishing tax on the local community. The tower is special in that it contains a well at its centre, but the site is closed on Sundays.
Next we were directed around the back of the resort, closed and tired-looking in its winter garb, out to the lengthy promenade. The almost deserted beach doesn’t have sands as golden as those that surround me in the Algarve, but the palm trees and lace curtains of white broom create a fragrant backdrop. So beautiful, it’s just one more sign that Spring is rolling along in my part of the world.
Eventually we arrive back in the immaculate marina, the focal point of this rather soulless resort. Building work continues so there must be a market, but I was happy to cross the water to the real Spain, no less attractive for being a little shabby round the edges.
We chose a restaurant by the waterside to look back on Isla Canela. Faced with a menu in Spanish we became surprisingly fluent in Portuguese, but the waitress was kind. And we can ask for dessert in many languages!
We thought the roses a rather romantic touch. And my triple chocolate mousse was delicious.
I’m still in a state of wibble regarding future scheduling, but there will be another Jo’s Monday walk next week. Thank you so much for all your kind thoughts. It’s not easy to stop when we have so much fun together. You are great company!
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All’s right in Amanda’s world!
Walking with Kangaroos and Galahs
Isn’t this a lovely name? We could all do with a bit of this, Alice :
I was so relieved when I found it was the geese Janet was talking about!
Jo’s Monday Walk…morning light and taking a bath
Just when I’m starting to think warmth, Irene has me shivering again :
Food and art- 2 subjects dear to Jackie’s heart :
Eunice loves street art, too. Her lovely dog has just died, so please visit. She might enjoy the company :
If anyone has a spirit of adventure, it’s Mel, but she’s also an appreciator of art :
Art Outside – Getting Out Amongst Walcha’s Sculptures
Drake has a sense of adventure too, and an eye for an interesting shot :
While Cathy takes an intimate look at Italy’s capital :
Rome: Continuing the “heart of Rome” walk past the Spanish Steps & the Trevi Fountain
And Natalie gets up close and personal with a waterfall :
Hiking to Devil’s Cauldron Waterfall
Let’s finish with Jude. Who wouldn’t want an amble with her? I’ll get there myself one day!
Have a great week everybody! This last one has flown.
Six word Saturday
Save the last dance for me?
I love these cruets, don’t you? I’m dancing tonight. Feel the love over at Debbie’s place. Happy weekend!
Jo’s Monday walk : Corte Pequena
At this time of year I’m seriously enamoured of almond blossom. Singly they are like small girls, spreading their skirts in a graceful curtsy. On a laden bough, they are the chorus line in Swan Lake, fluttering together in delicate motion. Like the dying swan, their days are numbered, for already they’ve been in bloom for a month.
The variety of colours confuses me. I was told recently that the paler blossoms are sweet almonds and the darker ones are bitter but I haven’t been able to verify this. I’m happy just to admire. In any case, I digress, and it’s time to get started on our walk. You will have gathered that I’m back in the Algarve hills, this time our start point a small village, Corte Pequena, with its own orange grove.
On a Saturday morning all was peaceful, far removed from the bustle of the city. A small terrier took it upon himself to defend his territory, but soon realised we were harmless enough and gave up. We didn’t have to walk far to find blossom.
Nor the wild clover that blooms everywhere in the Algarve at this time of year. It’s widely regarded as a pest, but so pretty! We followed the gentle gradient of the hills, climbing to a vantage point overlooking the dam at Odeleite. In the distance a herd of goats graze.
Despite recent rains the water levels are still quite low. Strangulated trees lean into the valley, some twisted by nature while others were burnt out some years ago. Bamboo follows a narrow stream through the valley bed, but we find a good point to cross, with just a stride or two and a held hand. Sometimes it can require a good plodge.
Soon we have come full circle and the village is spread out before us. As we descend a young dog decides that we will make good company. He gambols playfully alongside us, setting off a chorus of warnings from his wiser elders. Perhaps they are aware that sheep wander loose here.
For a moment we think that we are going to be playing Pied Piper to the flock, followed by an irate shepherd. But fortunately sheep have a short attention span and we are less interesting than the juicy grazing. I suspect you know the feeling.
That has to be one of the tastiest almond tarts I’ve ever eaten. The mural and wonderful metal sculptures were at the start of the Amendoeira (Almond Blossom) Trail, at nearby Alta Mora.
I’ve been walking with you weekly (or weakly!) for 6 years next month, and I’m thinking I should call time on our perambulations. Or cut back to a monthly, or fortnightly, event. I’m just as restless as ever, but I’m resident in Portugal now and many of my wanderings are local. I don’t want to bore you all, and I might like to try something different. I expect there’d still be occasional cake.
Meantime, thank you for your support and your wonderful company. Here are this week’s walks.
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If only Janet could walk in a straight line!
Alice lives in a very beautiful place, and is happy to share :
A Symbol of Hospitality- Pineapple Fountain
A gentle look at life from Drake this week :
It’s ages since I went along to the other end of the Algarve. This is a lovely walk!
Randonnée / Hike from Armacáo de Pera to Praia de Marinha
Reminding us that Valentine’s Day is almost here, Natalie takes…
While Cathy looks at local and Civil War history in Virginia, US :
Cedar Creek & Belle Grove National Historical Park
And Rosemay checks out a little family history in north London :
Off the Tourist Trail in London – A Stroll round Islington
Wishing you a great week! Hopefully the storms have passed.
Six word Saturday
Can there be anything more beautiful?
This week we did the Almond Blossom Trail- a yearly highlight. Debbie’s Six Words are a little more prosaic. Happy Saturday all!
Capital, in a small way : Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada isn’t especially grand, as capital cities go. In fact, my initial impression was that it was rather shabby. But it is the gateway to an archipelago that captured my imagination long ago. The Azores for me were the fulfilment of a dream.
Sitting in mid-Atlantic, this group of 9 volcanic islands seemed to me a world apart, and yet so much of their architecture felt familiar. They are, after all, Portuguese islands. Ponta Delgada, situated on the largest island, Sáo Miguel, is their administrative capital. Funnily enough (history is a strange thing) the religious capital of the islands is Angra on Terceira, and the legislative process operates from Horta on Faial.
It was pure coincidence that we arrived on the island in the midst of their greatest religious festival, in May. Ponta Delgada is the traditional centre of Festa de Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, and the Campo de Sáo Francisco and surrounding streets were decked in all their finery.
The Convent of Nossa Senhora da Esperanca is extraordinary both inside and out, especially by night when the whole square radiates light. From its origins as a small fishing village to the cosmopolitan city that it now is, Ponta Delgada retains something of the charm of these magical islands.
It takes a special person to induce me to delve into my archives. Viveka is making a guest appearance hostessing Lens-Artists Photo Challenge this week. Few people are more well-traveled than my lovely and generous friend, but I don’t think she has been to this particular Capital. Thanks for taking me back, darlin’. I enjoyed every second!
Can you see the patterns?
Life is full of them, don’t you think? Patterns of behaviour and visual patterns. Dramatic pause to count the patterns in the shot above. Jude has a new photographic challenge this year, all about improving your photography. The lady has lots of tips and some wonderful examples, so get yourself over there and admire. But have a quick peak at my gallery first.
Jo’s Monday walk : A sally through the salt marshes
Grey is not my favourite colour for sky, but sometimes there are compensations. (not cake- too soon for that!) A friend had suggested a sally through the salt marshes, and I’m always seduced by the fusion of sky and sea. I hadn’t reckoned on a grey day, but it was warm, so, no excuse!
The light on the water here is special on all but the glummest of days. Passing by the fisherman’s huts there’s always a cat or two, trying to appear disinterested in today’s catch. Down in the salt pans, birds wade, flap their wings, and glide across the still waters.
A pomegranate tree clings to the last of its fruit, and the reeds rustle and sway, bleached beige by the sun. Small hillocks of salt gleam, white, against the sullen sky. A mysterious pink has appeared in the salt pans, not reflected from the dense clouds overhead.
The light is changing and, looking to the hills, I realise that the clouds are beginning, ever so slowly, to roll back. The water darkens, inexplicably, to a rich magenta and I watch, transfixed, as grey gives way to blue.
I’m rounding the marshes to reach Fuseta for lunch. If I’m lucky the sky should be clear by the time I get there.
It’s almost unreal, the transformation in the skies as I head towards the sea, and I can only be a grateful witness.
I wander along the quayside, peering at the tiny fish milling around the boats. If they were bigger I’d think they were pushing their luck, but it’ll be a while before they make anyone a decent supper. Well, perhaps a ship’s cat?
Which brings us, of course, to the inevitable subject. Does anyone have space for cake? Someone’s been eating mine, again!
Not such a grey day, after all. Replete, we sat in the sunshine, gazing out across the bay.
Not so many walks this week. Huge thanks to my regular contributors. Please visit each other, if you can, and don’t forget to get out there walking off all those cakes! Join me any time, here on Jo’s Monday walk. You know you’ll always be welcome.
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What’s a little rain when you’re with a lovely friend? Welcome back, Gilly!
It’s a whole different world in Ecuador! Join Natalie in her explorations :
Papallacta Hot Springs: A Delightful Stay
Or Drake, with his alternative view of Paris :
New Orleans! Now that’s a place I’d love to visit :
Monday Murals : First Day in New Orleans
Never been to Berlin! And Autumn seems long ago and far away now 🙂
Berlin Day Hike: Last Days of Autumn around Gamensee
With a much more thoughtful attitude to walking than mine, I’m sure many of you know Frank :
On a Beach Walk: #71 (Homeostasis)
He’s leaving the blogging world soon, so you might want to say goodbye. And then, hello to Kammie!
Life is beautiful in Irene’s world :
Let’s finish with Cathy, surrounded by the exotic on a…
A whirlwind tour of Fez, Morocco
Those clouds dumped a fair bit of rain, and I ended up wading on a couple of my walks. Back to glorious blue this weekend, and set fair for summer. See you soon! Take care till then.
restlessjo 
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