Poland

Six word Saturday

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Polish memories tucked away- for now!

But it will take me a while to forget my boatman

But it will take me a while to forget my boatman

And the astounding scenery

And the astounding scenery

Of the Dunajec Gorge

In the Dunajec Gorge

You might have seen my river rafting post yesterday.  I had the best time!  And looking back I have so many more lovely memories from Poland, and that’s not even including the wedding.

Flower stalls at Borek Falecki market

I loved the flower stalls at Borek Falecki market

There's always something to see in the Rynek

And there’s always something to see in the Rynek

Or a horse who's all set to go

Like a horse and pretty lady, who’s all set to go

Cafe culture in the arcades of the Sukiennice

Cafe culture in the arcades of the Sukiennice

And we can't leave without one last piece of Polish cake

And I can’t leave without one last piece of Polish cake

I still have a few memories to share some day, but later this week I’m heading to the Algarve and you know I’ll bring a pocketful of memories back.  The laptop won’t be coming with me.  It’s in very poor health at the moment and needs a little expert attention.  The camera will, of course, but I haven’t used it since an unfortunate episode on Monday.  Wish me luck with that.

I won’t be here for Six word Saturday next week but I’m pretty sure I’ll find you all the following one.  Meantime, don’t forget to visit Cate at Show My Face to read this week’s posts.  And, most of all, enjoy your Saturday!

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Water : river rafting the Dunajec

The start point at Smorowce Nizne

The start point at Smorowce Nizne

Finally I reach the river rafting post, one of the highlights of my recent visit to Poland.  I think it fits quite well with Cee’s Fun Foto Challenge : Water.  It’s a subject that I love, though you might have to excuse the odd mountain creeping into the background.

Here come the rafts

Here come the rafts

And the experienced oarsman, of course

And the experienced oarsman, of course

And off we go!

And off we go!

The rafts have one older oarsman in the front, poleing skilfully and doing the commentary (po Polsku, of course!) while a younger model provides strength and endurance at the back.  We are very lucky with the day and the water is serene and calm.

A flat expanse of sunny water

A flat expanse of sunny water

We pass by the village of Czerwony Klasztor, in Slovakia

We pass by the village of Cerveny Klastor (Red Monastery), in Slovakia

With Trzy Korony (Three Peaks) visible on the Polish shore

With Trzy Korony (Three Peaks) visible on the Polish side

Under the bridge- don't forget to wave!

Under the bridge- don’t forget to wave!

Can you see the peaks of the Tatry Mountains in the distance?

Can you see the peaks of the Tatry Mountains in the distance?

We round a bend and the terrain changes completely

We round a bend and the terrain changes completely

For a while the boatman can sit and chat

For a while the boatman can sit and chat

And a party of school children are delighted to overtake us!

And a party of school children are delighted to overtake us!

The scenery is lush and green

The scenery is lush and green

Dwarfing us sometimes!

Dwarfing us sometimes

And naturally I get my bum wet in some of the faster eddies!

And, naturally, I get my bum wet in some of the faster eddies!

But all too soon the journey ends and we are pulling in to shore

But all too soon the journey ends and we are pulling in to shore

I hope you enjoyed my watery journey.  It took about 2 hours through the Dunajec Gorge, and ended up back at Szczawnica, where I was staying.  If you ever have the opportunity to go there, don’t hesitate.

But first you need to visit Cee, and have a little more fun with water.

Niedzica- a castle and a legend

A haunted castle?

A haunted castle?

In broad daylight, with the sun beaming down, I was not at all aware that I was approaching a haunted castle.  Yet the setting for Niedzica Castle was well nigh perfect.

Perched high on a cliff above the Dunajec River, for centuries this castle was a border post with Hungary.  Erected around 1325, the castle changed hands numerous times but the owners remained Hungarian right up to the middle of World War II.  In 1412 it was the venue for a loan from Hungary to the Polish king, using 16 Spis (towns in the region of Slovakia) as collateral.  The towns had to be returned once the loan was repaid.  The last Hungarian countess left with her children in 1943, just two years before the arrival of the Red Army.

The castle on its lofty promontory

The castle on its lofty promontory

The courtyard

The courtyard clock

Curves in the courtyard

Curves in the courtyard

Climbing the stairs to the battlements

Climbing the stairs to the battlements

Looking down on the curvaceous roofs

Looking down on the curvaceous roofs

They are quite fascinating, these roofs, aren’t they, and I have been trying to establish their exact purpose.  My husband insists that they are built that way to prevent snow lingering on them, and he may well be correct.  His basis for thinking so is a programme we watched about Yellowstone, where roofs had to be cleared by hand to remove the weight of the snow.  I haven’t been able to find evidence, so I’ll just say that he’s usually right.

A little history!

A little history!

Furnishings bring the castle to life

Furnishings bring the castle to life

With warm drapes around the bed

With warm drapes around the bed

And the faded lithograph looks creepy indeed!

The faded lithograph looks creepy indeed!

And so we come to the ghost story.  One of the castle’s many owners, Sebastian Berzeviczy, travelled to the New World in the 18th century.  Legend has it that he fell in love with an Inca princess.  Their daughter, Umina, married one of the Incan rebels who was subsequently executed by the Spanish.  Umina fled to Niedzica with her son and father, allegedly taking with them some sacred scrolls and Inca treasure.  Umina was later murdered outside the castle, presumably by a treasure hunter.  She now roams the castle as the “White Lady” to protect her gold.  The castle has 35 suites so, if you fancy a little ghost hunting, it could be a good place to stay.

Time to get out on the battlements for a little fresh air!

The views are breathtaking

The views are breathtaking

And look down on a forest of chimneys

Looking down on a forest of chimneys

And out across Lake Czorsztyn

And out across Lake Czorsztyn

In 1994 the lake was dammed downstream of the castle, creating an artificial reservoir, Lake Czorsztyn.  The castle now stands approximately 30 metres above the upper water level.  Stalls alongside the dam sell grilled smoked cheese for a snack, or to take away, with local honey and crafts.  The smells are so appetising!

Looking out to the dam

Looking out across the dam

Can you see the snowy peaks in the distance?

Can you see the snowy peaks in the distance?

Beside the lake all is calm

Beside the lake all is calm, with the ruins of Czorsztyn over the water

You may remember that I was across the lake at Czorsztyn Castle in my Tatry Mountains post.

The fortress was renovated almost every time it changed hands, but the final reconstruction was completed by the Polish Ministry of Culture in 1963.  It has served as a historical museum ever since.

So, what did you think of Niedzica?  Will you be checking in any time soon?  I know that my friend Paula loves the mountain scenery and I would like to share this on her Thursday’s Special.  I hope she’ll approve.  I’m off there next to see what’s special about Thursday this week.  Come with me, won’t you?

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‘U’ is for Ula

Ula, 'sparkling' at her sister's wedding

Ula, ‘sparkling’ at her sister’s wedding

My neice Urszula, or Ula as she is always called at home, is the youngest of my cousin Adam’s three children.  From the shy early teen she was in 2007, when first we met, Ula has blossomed into a beautiful and stylish young woman.  Today is her 20th birthday and I’d like to take this opportunity to wish her ‘Happy Birthday’.  Wszystkiego najlepszego na urodziny!

My Personal A-Z of Poland has taken me down many routes and shared many stories.  Dad, along with millions of others, paid the price of a war torn Europe.  His family was scattered far and wide, but for Dad there has been a belated happy ending.  I’d like to share with you today a video that had tears streaming down my face, but which also ends joyfully.

Ann, or Gallivanta is a warm-hearted lady who is proud of her country, New Zealand.  This week I received from her a link for my Jo’s Monday walk.  It’s not strictly a walk but it is a very moving journey and I thought that it deserved a place here, alongside Dad’s story.

http://www.nzonscreen.com/title/the-story-of-seven-hundred-polish-children-1966

I know that it’s the kind of story that Frizz will find empathy with, and won’t mind me sharing it on his Tagged- U.  I’d like to thank so many people for the love that is shared in our blogging world.  I’m feeling quite emotional this morning and I think it’s time to go back to playing with Polish castles.  Thanks also to Julie Dawn Fox for the personal A-Z challenge.

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Jo’s Monday walk : Beside the Wisła

Balon Widokowy and na Skalce

Balon Widokowy and na Skalce

Isn’t this just a strange sight?  The hot air balloon, hunkered down on the banks of the river, dwarfing one of Kraków’s biggest churches!

I think this might have to be my last Polish Monday walk.  I’ve been home for a couple of weeks now, and already have English walks that I want to share.  So let’s take a city stroll, beside the River Wisła (Vistula).  I think you’ll enjoy it.

It's quite an idyllic scene on a sunny day, isn't it?

It’s quite an idyllic scene on a sunny day, isn’t it?

The swans are more than happy!

The swans seem happy enough

And there are riverboat restaurants to keep the people happy too

And there are riverboat restaurants to keep the people happy too

Though you couldn't tell from this face, could you?

Though you’d never guess from this face, would you?

The Vistula is quite an amazing river, which flows the entire length of Poland, 651 miles in total. In doing so, it passes through many of Poland’s finest cities.  From Silesia in the south it meanders through Kraków, then via Sandomierz to the nation’s capital, Warsaw.  Continuing north it sweeps past Płock and Torun, finally emptying out into the delta beside Gdansk, on the Baltic.

All kinds of craft use the waterway

All kinds of craft use the waterway

In Krakow the tourist gondolas are numerous

In Krakow, there are numerous gondolas for the tourists

You can stroll through the centre on either river bank, and both will afford you fine views of Wawel Castle.  If you’ve never been, my K is for Krakow will take you on a tour of the heart of the city, Stare Miasto.  It is a beautiful place.  Or you could sit on the terrace of the Japanese Cultural Centre, gazing across the river, and sip your wine in style.  But for now we’ll keep walking, under bridges and over bridges, in the delicious sunshine.

Underneath the arches

Underneath the arches, Wawel ever present in the background

Always, boats have me reaching for the camera

Gazing down into a tethered boat

Just beyond Most Grunwaldskiego, with its rattling trams, you can see the spires of Na Skalce, the Pauline Church- a special place. Let’s take a little diversion there before we return to the river.

The Pauline Church and Monastery

The Pauline Church and Monastery

The grounds of the church are very beautiful

The grounds of the church are very beautiful

With a fountain and statue at its centre

With a fountain and statue at the centre

Long columns and statues

Tall columns and statues of bishops

And majestic heraldry

Majestic heraldry

Combining modern and ancient

Combining modern and ancient

While Pope John Paul II looks tenderly on

While Pope John Paul II looks gently on

Named for the rocky hill, Skalka, on which it was built, this is Kraków’s oldest shrine and Poland’s second holiest sanctuary after the Jasna Gora monastery at Czestochowa.  King Boleslaw II, the Bold, had Kraków bishop Stanisław put to death here in 1079, creating another martyr in the battle between Church and State.  Stanisław was canonised and throughout the Middle Ages his cult was pivotal in forming the Polish nation, with an emphasis on the accountability of those in power. Following their coronation, Polish kings made a point of doing ritual penance at this sanctuary.

Beneath the church is a crypt, cut into the rock of the hill, now a mausoleum to famous Poles, including Stanisław Wyspianski, locally born painter and writer.

Back on the river bank it's time to board one of those restaurants

Back on the river bank, it’s time to board one of those restaurants

And sample a little szarlotka? (apple tart)

And sample a little szarlotka? (apple tart)

I’m going to leave you sitting in the sunshine while I amble a little further.  I can’t sit still for too long and you won’t get lost if you stay by the river.  See you soon!

Ending as I began, with the hot air balloon

I’ll end as I began, with the hot air balloon

For anyone not familiar with my Monday walks, I host this feature every Monday and anyone is welcome to join in.  All you need to do is send me a link to your walk in the Comments below, or include a link to my walks in your post.  It’s up to you which you prefer to do, and you can join in on any day of the week.  I will include your link at the end of next week’s walk, to give everyone a chance to see it, and share on social media when I read it.  Happy walking!

I had a terrific response to my walk last week so there are some wonderful shares below.  I’m going to start you off though with a Memorial Day posting from Yvette.  Such is her charisma that she even got President Obama to join my walks!  :

http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/05/25/walk-with-jo-navy-monument-and-obama-walk/

http://bopaula.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/monday-walk-in-montmartre/

http://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/walking-round-ljubljana/

http://pommepal.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/exploring-greenough-river-jos-monday-walk/

http://dailymusing57.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/monday-walk/

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/whom-the-bell-tolls/

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/jos-monday-walk-clouds-come-floating/

http://smallbluegreenwords.wordpress.com/2014/05/17/a-spring-walk-in-herefordshire/

http://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/05/20/a-monday-walk/

Please spend some time with my friends.  These are all terrific reads!

‘T’ is for Tatry Mountains

The snow capped Tatry Mountains, seen from Lake Czorsztyn

The snow capped Tatry Mountains, seen from Lake Czorsztyn

Mountains and water are, for me, a pretty irresistible combination.  On my recent visit to Poland, this is as near as I got to the Tatry Mountain range, but what a magnificent backdrop they make!

Situated to the south of Kraków, they form a natural border with Slovakia, and are the highest mountain range in the Carpathians. At 2499 metres Rysy is the highest peak on the Polish side of the range.  Zakopane is regarded as the ‘winter capital of Poland’ but is a highly popular destination for hiking in summertime too.   I was lucky enough to be there for Silver Wedding celebrations in 2009 and Z is for Zgorzelec and Zakopane tells that story.

This post will take a very different path, and includes a ferry crossing on Lake Czorsztyn.

Imagine this view from your garden!

Imagine this view from your garden!

And the ruins of Czorsztyn Castle at the bottom of the street

And the ruins of Czorsztyn Castle at the bottom of your street

On our trip to the Pieniny Mountain range, much lower than the Tatrys, we passed alongside of the lake and I gazed in awe at the spectacle beyond.  I knew that if it were at all possible I would be back for a closer look.  And so my return to Kraków was by a very roundabout route.

To the gondolas?  Or the castle?

To the gondolas? Or the castle?

The castle first, of course

The castle first, of course

And then the boat

And then the boat

The Tatras, as they are known in English (Tatry is the Polish plural) sit tantalisingly out of reach but ever present on the horizon.

Looking across the lake, you can still see the tips

Looking out across the lake, I can just see the tips!

And then we're off, in search of another castle!

And then we’re off, in search of another castle!

Magnificent Niedzica Castle this time, and not just a ruin

Majestic Niedzica Castle this time, and not just a ruin

Another castle sign!

Another castle sign (and a tractor in the background)

I won’t attempt to show you around the castle, because I think it deserves a post of its own.  But I will give you a couple of views from the battlements, to tempt you back.

This one looks down on sturdy dam, blocking off the lake

This one looks down on the sturdy dam, blocking off the lake to the east

And this is my favourite of the castle rooftops

While this is my favourite, of the castle rooftops

And for the foodies among you, some typical Polish fayre

And for the foodies among you, some typical Polish ‘fayre’

I had pierogi a jagodami and delicious it was!

I had Pierogi z jagodami and delicious it was!

We were assisted in our enterprise by a very charming couple from Warsaw, who observed me struggling with the language and the bus timetables.  They had been to the area a number of times and were off on a hiking expedition to Trzy Korony (Three Crowns).  It would have been very tempting to join them, but instead they ensured that we were dropped at the right spot and pointed in the direction of the lake.

They also suggested that we might find a bus connection from Niedzica directly back to Kraków, which we did, instead of returning across the lake.  But not before sampling some typical mountain food- filling but delicious pierogi or dumplings, at “Karczma Hajdur” restaurant, by the lake.  I can highly recommend it!

Just one last shot of the Tatry Mountains, taken on another expedition, on the River Dunajec.

The Tatry Mountains seen from the Dunajec River

The Tatry Mountains seen from the Dunajec River

I’m going to be a little ambitious and link this to three different challenges.  For some time I’ve been trying to complete my Personal A-Z of Poland and this is yet another step in that direction. Many thanks to Julie Dawn Fox for setting me on the path.  I’ve also been joining Frizz whenever I can.  This week he’s Tagged T, which just happens to be a perfect fit.  He’s another very kind host, so do visit and take a look around.

I’m sure most of you know Cee.  She’s a legend in the world of photo challenges.  I have joined in on her Which Way challenge in the past but have struggled to find the time lately, so I’m hoping she won’t mind “sharing me”.  Cee loves directions and signposts in her challenge, and wherever I go now, I find myself snapping away every time I see a sign.  It’s addictive!

So there you are!  I hope you’ll find the time to join in on one of them, while I think about where you might like to go next. banner4

Jo’s Monday walk : Las Wolski and Bielany

The spires of Bielany above the tree line

The spires of Bielany monastery, above the tree line

Every time we drive out to Balice, Kraków’s airport, I can’t help but look skywards at Bielany monastery, high above the tree tops. On the last day of my recent visit, I finally achieved my ambition to see it up close.  Well- the outing didn’t go quite to plan!

If you saw my Six word Saturday you’ll know that the day started damp and drizzly but, undeterred, my cousin Adam drove us out to the Las Wolski woods and deposited us there.  My rainproof jacket was about to be tested again.

A long sweep of pebbly drive carried us upwards through dense greenery and opened out at a large car parking area.  We had reached the zoo!  At 10 in the morning nobody much was about- just one inquisitive red squirrel, who didn’t stop to chat.  We debated what to do while the weather cleared, and the zoo seemed a reasonable option.

The path through the woods

The path through the woods

Zoological gardens!

Zoological gardens!

I don't know that I expected to find elephants in the woods!

I don’t know that I expected to find elephants in the woods

But the meerkats were keeping a sharp lookout!

But the meerkats were keeping a sharp lookout

While the peacocks performed a merry dance

While the peacocks performed a merry dance

But my out and out favourite was this fella

My out and out favourite was this shy fella

And his friends- messy eaters, aren't they?

And his friends- messy eaters, aren’t they?

But awfully good at posing!

But great at posing!

The sun was breaking through in patches by the time we left the zoo.  A map gave us a rough direction, so into the dappled sunlight and shade we went, full of hope.  It was really just a case of follow your nose.  At crossroads I always defer to Michael’s choice because I never get it right! It was a lovely woodland wander, but the clues were scarce.

Excuse the grafitti'd map

Excuse the grafitti near Bielany!  You are here?

Finding a clearing with a woodcutter busy at work, I dug into the phrase book for the Polish word for monastery- klasztor!  It didn’t sound quite right, but the woodcutter wasn’t phased by a grinning idiot in the woods.  He waved his saw in an uphill direction, which seemed to make sense.  It definitely would be at the top of a hill.

And so it was!  The sun was radiant by now and the photo opportunity had me skipping forward, camera at the ready.

The entrance to the monastery

The entrance to the monastery

Promising, isn't it?

Promising, isn’t it?

And in the doorway, even better!

And in the doorway, even better!

The temptation was too great.  By now, you know that Michael had retreated to a safe distance. He didn’t want to incur the wrath of the monks!  A sign by the door gave the opening times, and it seemed the last tour was at 11.30.  It was now 11.45!  If only we’d walked faster, or not spent so long with those giraffes.

Tentatively, I rang the bell, and waited.  And waited.  No sound from behind the doors.  Should I ring again? Michael’s expression, from far away, down the path, suggested not, but what the heck! I had my idiot English grin at the ready. Still- nothing!  They must be deep in prayer within?  I had to content myself with taking what photos I could from the grassy courtyard.

If only I could get closer!

If only I could get closer!

It looked so intriguing!

It looked so intriguing!

But there was nothing else to do but make our way down to the road, and seek out a bus back to the centre.  It was a glorious afternoon and we spent our final hours in Kraków by the river.

Arriving home at teatime, I explained our adventures to the family, to be greeted with hilarious laughter.  It seems that the monastery is open to the public just one day in the year.  And to men only!  Next time perhaps I should do a little more research before my walk.  But back in the UK, I found this link, on Wikipedia.  Confused?  Me too, but I hope you enjoyed the walk anyway.

I’ve been sharing Monday walks for a while now, and I love it!  Can’t wait to see where you take me this week.  You can post a link in the comments below or in the body of your post, whichever you like.  And no, you don’t have to walk on a Monday!  I will add your link to the bottom of my post next week so that everybody gets to see them all.  Half the fun is sharing!  Happy walking!

Here are last week’s walks :

Don’t miss Pauline’s scarecrow-

http://pommepal.wordpress.com/2014/05/12/a-walk-in-a-heritage-garden/

Or Yvette’s video-

http://priorhouse.wordpress.com/2014/05/12/monday-walk-with-jo-canal-walk-video/

And you just know you’ll get a lovely poem with Viv-

http://vivinfrance.wordpress.com/2014/05/15/blooming-bocage/

Six word Saturday

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An unintentional trip to the zoo?

These guys are so cute, aren't they?

Meercats are so cute, aren’t they?

My last day in Kraków started rather damply.  The plan was a woodland walk and, when we arrived, I was immediately captivated by a red squirrel.  He, though, was quite determined to evade me and disappeared through a fence.  The woods were, coincidentally, situated next to Kraków zoo, and I surmised that I might find more red squirrels inside.  Looking through the gate, I decided that a visit might be worthwhile.  The flowerbeds alone looked rather beautiful.  So- in we went!

See what I mean?  The rhododendrons were gorgeous!

See what I mean? The rhododendrons were gorgeous!

 The kookaburra was one of my favourites of the captive species

The kookaburra was one of my favourites of the captive species

This guy seemed determined to vie with the flowers

But this guy seemed determined to vie with the flowers

When he treat us to this display!

When he treated us to this display!

While the pelicans seemed more intent on personal grooming

The pelicans seemed more intent on personal grooming

Nothing was going to compete with these rain dropped beauties!

And nothing was going to compete with these rain dropped beauties!

But for adorable, these guys took a lot of beating

But for adorable, these guys got my vote

And antelope always make me smile

And antelope can always make me smile!

You know what I didn’t find, though?  Not even a single red squirrel.  Maybe the roaring of the lion scared them off!   So I settled for more rhododendrons.  Well, they are my favourite plant!

Aren't they lovely?

Aren’t they lovely?

I’m never too sure about zoos, though I know some of them do great conservation work.  I hate to see big cats caged, and the noise coming from the single beautiful lion indicated that he felt the same way too.  Paula was at the zoo in Zagreb earlier this week.  Why not ask her what she thinks?

Then you need to pay a visit to Cate at Show My Face.  She’s our generous hostess for Six word Saturday.  Are you going to play?

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‘S’ is for Szczawnica

Plac Dietla and Cafe Helenka

Plac Dietla and Cafe Helenka, in the upper town

Well, where else should it be?  If you saw my Monday walk this week, you’ll know that I have a new Polish love in my life.  The thermal spa town Szczawnica in the very south of Poland, where it meets Slovakia, was a rich discovery for me.

Alkali sorrel springs and a temperate climate make this an ideal base for the treatment of respiratory and digestive ailments.  In the mid 19th century a doctor, Jozef Dietl, saw the potential and began the development of  hydrotherapy treatments unique to Poland at the time, turning Szczawnica into a spa town.  An Inhalatorium equipped with pressurised rooms was built, and in the woods, Willa pod Modrzewiami (villa under the larches).

The start of World War II halted developments and in 1948 the spa was nationalised by the government and used for the treatment of miners and metalworkers.  It was not until 2005 that the ownership of the resort was returned to descendants of the Stadnicki family, the pre-war owners of the estate.  They invested hugely to restore the spa to its former glory.  Dietl Square was rebuilt to its historical design, with Cafe Helenka at its core, and, in 2oo9, 5 star Modrzewie Park hotel replaced the villa.  A museum dedicated to the project soon followed.

Fretwork shadows

Wood is everywhere- I love these delicate fretwork shadows

Cafe Helenka and its wide terrace

Cafe Helenka, in its lovely situation

Facing it, across Plac Dietl, the spa museum

Facing it, across Plac Dietl, the spa museum

Brightened for me by a flurry of Spring flowers

Down in the lower town, a flurry of Spring flowers!

the park

The park is a lush green

No shortage of water

And naturally, there’s no shortage of water!

There are pretty riverside walks

There are pretty riverside walks

And bridges by the dozen!

And bridges by the dozen!

And did you ever see a quirkier souvenir kiosk?

And did you ever see a quirkier souvenir kiosk?

Not for us the 5 star hotel!  I had chosen to stay in a lovely old dark wood chalet, ‘Willa Danusia’, in the upper town overlooking Plac Dietl.  Naturally that meant a steep climb home on an evening, but there’s always a price, isn’t there?  Inside the villa, the wood was pale, while the view from our lofty porch provided wonderful views.

One evening we dined handsomely in the ‘Willa Marta’ in the lower town.  It also was constructed from dark wood, but most of the town had a more modern appearance.

'Willa Danusia', high on the hill

‘Willa Danusia’, high on the hill

'Willa Marta', hotel and restaurant

‘Willa Marta’, hotel and restaurant

An evening stroll through the upper town gave me a chance to breathe deeply and make the most of the tranquil atmosphere. I know that I felt better, just for being there!

Nymphs in the woods

There are nymphs to admire in the woods

Looking down on the square

Playing their pipes

Stylish hotels

And 5-star Modrzewie Hotel, among the larches

The picture of health?

The picture of health?

As the light fades the fountains begin to change colour

As the light fades the fountains begin to change colour

Glimmering in the dusk

Glimmering in the dusk

Evening falls

The lights come on around the square

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Looking down, we climb the hill back up to the villa

From the porch the tiniest crescent of moon is visible

From the porch the tiniest crescent of moon is just visible- can you see it?

Just visible through the trees, from our porch

While down below, the lights twinkle goodnight

‘Romantykaly’, as they say in Poland.

Willa Danusia cost almost nothing for a basic bedroom and a very fine breakfast.  Willa Marta was perhaps a little more stylish but definitely wouldn’t break the bank.

I had intended my ‘S’ post to be all about the Sukiennice in Krakow.  Maybe I’ll find time to write a second.  Meantime I’d like to thank Frizz for providing the incentive this week with Tagged ‘S’, and also Julie Dawn Fox for her Personal A-Z Challenge.  I can promise you a wonderful read at either website, and perhaps you’d like to join in with the challenges?

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Jo’s Monday walk : the Dunajec Gorge

Shall we start at the chair lift?

Shall we start at the chair lift?

To be fair, I have so many photos it’s hard to know where to start!  After the wedding, my Polish family were wonderfully indulgent of my wandering ways.  I had booked into an old wooden villa for a couple of nights, in the upper part of the thermal spa town of Szczawnica, right down on the border with Slovakia.

Why there?  Well, I already knew that the scenery in nearby Zakopane was beautiful.  Part of the Tatra Mountain range, it is renowned for Summer hiking and for Winter sports.  But, as always, I wanted to see somewhere new, yet still within reasonable distance of Kraków.  The Pieniny Mountains are not so high, nor so busy, and they have a beauty all their own.

Szczawnica (rough pronounced ‘Sh-chav-nitsa’) sits in the river valley of the Grajcarek, a tributary of the Dunajec River which forms the border with Slovakia.

Come with me on my walk, and see what you think.

Ok- so from the chair lift we're going to walk alongside the river

From the chair lift we’re going to walk alongside the river

Using this lovely boulevard

Using this lovely boulevard

And crossing some of the many bridges

And crossing some of the many bridges

And sometimes looking back to check the view behind

Not forgetting to look back to check the view behind- peaceful, isn’t it?

This was one of my favourite houses- just look at that roof!

This was one of my favourite houses- just look at that roof!

And always, the river, rushing along beside

And always, the river, rushing along beside

After many twists and turns the Grajcarek flows into the Dunajec, and the beckoning scenery becomes much more dramatic.

One of my reasons for choosing Szczawnica is that it sits at the end of a stretch of the Dunajec famed for river rafting.  Not the white knuckle ride that phrase might conjure up for you, but nevertheless, a strong test of the skills of the boatmen.  The Dunajec Gorge drew me to the area.

Szczawnica przystan, or marina

Szczawnica przystan, or marina

The view from the landing stage

The view from the landing stage

A peaceful island lures you for a closer look

A frail bridge lures you for a closer look

A rather strange bird, guarding his territory

At this strange bird, guarding his territory

And the empty benches

No wonder the benches are empty!

And you never know what might lurk in the caves

I wonder what might lurk in these caves?

But the flora are delicate and pretty

But the flora are delicate and pretty

The water and trees are so many different shades

The trees and water are a myriad of colour

But what's this, patiently waiting?

And what do we find, patiently waiting on the river bank?

Wooden canoe trips have been organised through the Gorge since the early 19th Century, when customers came primarily from nearby castles at Niedzica and Czorstyn (more of these in a later post).  The Gorge loops through the valley, the limestone rock reaching 300 metres in height almost all the way.  It makes for some very beautiful walking and cycling, not to mention the opportunity to river raft.

Gentle aquamarine

Hues of gentle aquamarine

Still and smooth

Still, smooth water

And interesting patterns in the cliff face

And interesting patterns in the cliff face

Light and shade

Wandering through light and shade

The shadows adding a layer of mystery

The deeper shadow adding an air of mystery

Families, walkers and cyclists all have access to this dramatic beauty, though Spring and Autumn are probably the times to see it at its peaceful best.  In Summer and on public holidays there are mountain huts where you can find food and information.

An interesting sign appears

I found this sign quite interesting

And then a further clue

And then a further clue- welcome to Lesnica, written in Slovak

Without realising it I had crossed over the border into Slovakia, part of which is formed by the River Dunajec.  It felt quite strange, and looking at the remaining distance to Cerwony Klastor (approximately 2 hours, according to the sign)  it seemed a good time to retrace my steps.  But not without first paying homage to one of the nation’s favourite sons, who loved to hike and ski in the mountains.

Just one more sign- a view dedicated to Karol Wojtyla (Pope John Paul II)

The view is dedicated to Karol Wojtyla (Pope John Paul II)

In no time at all I was back at the marina with a hard-earned beer

In no time at all I was back at the marina, with a hard-earned beer

Fast approaching, round a bend in the river, some boatmen!

Where I saw, fast approaching round a bend in the river, the boatmen!

But that needs to be the subject for another post.  For now, I’m hoping that you’ve enjoyed our Monday walk.  I certainly did!

If you’d like to join in, you’re more than welcome to add a link to a walk you’ve enjoyed in the comments, or to link back to me from your post.  Either way, I really don’t mind.  I try to keep it free and easy so you can join in any day of the week.  The more beautiful walks, the better- right?

Whilst I was in Poland, kind people continued to contribute walks to cheer me up on my return. I’m delighted to be able to share them with you.  Enjoy your walking.  See you next time.

 

Way out in Western Australia we have Pauline, walking on the foreshore :

Geraldton Foreshore Walk

Sylvia is busy packing up her home in South Africa, but still found the time to cherish a few memories in her walk :

Sand Between the Toes for Jo’s Monday Walk Challenge.

Tish Farrell brought me back to her home in Much Wenlock, a beautiful part of Shropshire :

http://tishfarrell.wordpress.com/2014/04/28/much-lettered-at-much-wenlocks-poetry-festival/

A lovely surprise from a lady I’d not met, Gunilla, but will certainly spend some time with :

http://gbkoru.blogspot.fi/2014/05/bloggers-sunday-walk-spring.html

And last, but never least, my sunny friend from Virginia, USA- Cathy, with an arboretum walk :

the state arboretum of virginia

 

Here are some of this week’s walkers,

Paula has been to the zoo :

http://bopaula.wordpress.com/2014/05/12/a-visit-to-the-zoo-part-ii/

And Elaine introduced me to Finsbury Park in London :

a walk in Finsbury Park

And who can resist Amy’s Iphoneography? (is that spelt right?)  What that girl can do with a flower!

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/05/12/phoneography-for-jos-monday-walk/

We’re going to be busy reading this week, aren’t we?