Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Beautiful Belém

Did you know that the name Belém derives from the Portuguese for Bethlehem? And that makes it a very suitable subject for this time of year, doesn’t it? Just 6km from the centre of Lisbon, it’s a distance I’d normally regard as walkable but, eager to get there, I squeezed myself onto a reluctant bus. No tram for me! My last visit to Lisbon ended in tears when my purse was pickpocketed whilst waiting for the famous no. 15 tram. This time I was determined to make it to the Jerónimos Monastery.

And when I did, the disappointment of that failed visit was completely swept away.

I’ll bring you back to the incredible beauty of the monastery later this week, but for now I think we should do some walking.

Much too soon to loiter over a pastel de nata! We need to get going to stay ahead of the tour buses. I promise you can have one or two later. It is the festive season, after all! Not sure what to make of this street art. Genius or madness?

Rua de Belém, the main street, is a strip of historical buildings dating back to the earthquake of 1755. This and Ajuda were the areas least affected by the devastation, and many of the survivors who lost their homes were temporarily installed here in tents and shacks. The King and his ministers set up court nearby and, with the construction of Ajuda National Palace, brought trade to the area. With the French invasion of 1807 the royal family fled to Rio de Janeiro, and Belém gradually evolved into an industrial zone. Tanneries, textiles, glass makers and metal stampers were among the factories established.

At the heart of Belém lies the Praça do Império, with gardens and fountain laid out during World War II, and beyond it a magnificent sweep of waterfront, culminating in the iconic Torre de Belém. As you can see, it’s a popular spot.

The tower was built in 16th century. Delicate as it looks, it was intended as part of the defence system at the mouth of the Rio Tejo, together with fortresses at Cascais– which we saw last week- and Caparica, south of the river. A UNESCO World Heritage site, as is the monastery, it has a colourful history. The two photos below are from a previous visit to Belém in 2005.

From here you can easily stroll along the riverfront as far as Ponte 25 de Abril, with any number of diversions en route.

You might think that not a lot of walking goes on. It’s definitely an area devoted to fun in the sun, but looking ahead I’m excited! The last time I was here I did not know that you could climb these structures. Not only the lighthouse, but Padrão dos Descobrimentos.

The Monument to the Discoveries, as we see it today, was formally opened in 1960 to commemorate the voyages of exploration which departed from here as far back as the 15th century. Trade was established with countries as far away as India.

You know what comes next, don’t you? There was almost no queue for the lift that takes you most of the way up.

Did you spot Michael, in the blue t’shirt, sitting patiently waiting below? He thinks it’s pastel de nata time. Just another couple of shots!

Patience should be rewarded, I’m sure you’ll agree. What a place! I was astounded. 400 seats and choc full of character. But best of all….

I don’t suppose many of you will feel like a walk on Christmas morning, so may I take this opportunity to wish all my walking friends a peaceful and happy Christmas. I have enjoyed your company so much and I hope you’ll continue to walk with me in the New Year.

Not many walks to share this week. Everyone’s busy, but spare a minute or two to say hello? As always, many thanks to readers and walkers alike. Details of how to join in are on the Jo’s Monday walk page.

…………………………………………………………………………………….

Let’s start with Tammy’s interesting tour in my part of the world. Watch out for the Fisherman!

North Shields Heritage Walk : Fish, Ships and Lighthouses

Jackie with a bit of seasonal spice this week?

Spicing things up

Why the battlefields of the Western Front are important to Woolly :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk46_Courcelette

And an excellent bit of sketching along the way, from Pauline and Jack :

Cliff top walk in the sun

That’s it for now. Hope you enjoyed it. Remember to breathe- it comes around every year. Merry Christmas!

Jo’s Monday walk : A brief sojourn in Cascais

Since I very first heard the name, suggestive of seashells, I’ve wanted to visit Cascais, on the Lisbon coast. That was many years ago, and so I had just a hint of doubt that it would still satisfy my expectations. A harbour full of boats, a swathe or two of sand, and beautifully cobbled streets where I can wander at will, all are conjured in my mind. A haven from the beautiful but busy streets of the city. But how will I view the reality?

Boarding the train at Belem, I watched the estuary widen, caressed by shimmering sunlight. With rapt attention I counted off the stations, until at last we reached the end of the line, Cascais. It was late in the afternoon and I needed to find my accomodation.

Instructions in hand to head steadily upwards, I climbed the steps and streets away from the centre, taking note of interesting street art and entertainers. A quick introduction to my room and I was back on the street. Time for a proper look around.

The main square is an attractive space, with wide views out across the bay and locals comfortably ensconced on benches, passing the time of day. A solid fortress protects the marina. It dates from 1488, but was inadequate for the task, succumbing to invasion by Spanish troops in 1580. It was subsequently enlarged by King Philip of Spain, and has the characteristic star-shaped floor plan of a Renaissance citadel.

The light was already beginning to fade as I rounded the headland, only to be enchanted by the sight before me.

A fairytale palace and a delightful cove, with the soft lap of the sea. And an alluring lighthouse, waiting to beam gently at me. Noting the restaurant, nestled above the rocks, I head on round the bay, following the setting sun.

All along the shoreline people are pausing to take in this splendour, some settling down on the rocks for a grand finale.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

As the light fades, I take in the majestic proportions of the Casa de Santa Maria. Where better to sip a caipirinha, as the lighthouse blinks slowly at me, than the restaurant in the cove? Just time to slip into the park before the gates close for the evening.

And then wend my way back, passing the marina, and the floodlit fortress with its neon support act. I think I’ve fallen a little in love.

Is it any wonder that King Luis I decided to make Cascais his summer residence in 1870? The citadel was equipped with the first electric lights in the country in 1878, and with the advent of the railway in 1889 this former fishing community acquired cosmopolitan status.

Next morning it’s time to leave, with not a little reluctance, but I have more to see in Lisbon, and a coach home to the Algarve that evening. I draw out every last bit of pleasure by walking along the coast to the station at Estoril.

Passing the quiet beaches of Rainha and Conceicao, I revel in the late October sunshine. A surprising number of people are taking their morning exercise on the promenade, and one or two inviting cafes beckon, but I resist. Breakfast, not long ago, was spent talking to a lovely young Austrian woman. All too soon, ahead of me, the distinctive structure that signifes Estoril to me.

I hope you enjoyed my brief visit. I’d love to have seen inside the fort and some of the museums, but there simply wasn’t time. Why not pop over to Sami’s blog. She knows Cascais much better than me.

One week nearer to Christmas, and I still have so much of Lisbon to share. Thank you so much for all of your support and for walking with me. Pop the kettle on and enjoy my companions, won’t you? Details on joining me are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

………………………………………………………………………………………….

Lisa shares some more stories and history from Israel :

Trees, Turtles and Trumpeldor

Meet Dhara, a newcomer to my walks, sharing the beauty of South California :

Our Fleeting Flirtation with Mono Lake… and Why We’ll be Back!

Did you visit Hikeminded last week? Don’t miss these very beautiful shots of Winter :

Berlin Day Hike : Wintertime at the Arkenberge

It won’t take you 5 minutes to visit Violet, for some delightful sculpture :

And the bears will play

I think Marsha is bidding for longest ever walk post title :

How the Ancient Puebloans Lived Large in the Grand Canyon Even Though Water Was Scarce

I wouldn’t dare accuse Jackie of this!

Crabby!

Ellen’s eating again! No utensils required :

Going for a walk in search of Ethiopian food/Little Five Points, Atlanta

While Cathy takes us to one of the world’s great icons :

Mijajima : Itsukushima-jinja & the floating o-torii gate

Drake celebrates life in one of the world’s great capitals :

Paris, ‘warm’ december

And sprinkling on the fairy dust, lovely Pauline in Oz :

A walk in an enchanted garden

That’s it for another week. Are you feeling festive? We have just a scraping of snow here this morning. It’ll do me nicely. Have a good week, everybody, and take care out there!

Jo’s Monday walk : Loitering in LOULÉ

I always try for variety in my walks. Sometimes I have to look back to see where I’ve taken you, as was the case with Loulé . The attractive tile panel of the Arab market, shown above, was hidden away in a Pingo Doce supermarket. (I was looking for a birthday cake at the time, strangely enough) Loulé is one of those places you can go when the Algarve weather is not all that you might have hoped for. (yes, it happens! Though not often, in my experience.) There’s always something of interest to see and do there.

Despite the urban sprawl, it has a rather elegant old quarter, resplendent with calçadas, so I’m sure my friend Madhu would enjoy it. Billowy panels fluttered above the streets, evidence that it had been consistently hot and sunny. Meandering on Rua 5 de Outubro, I had an urge to go and see Nossa Senhora da Piedade. It’s an uphill climb to the church, but I think it’s worth it.

Calcadas rule!

Keeping the sun out

Shiny chocolate brown tiles

5th October Street

For tethering a horse? Becky would know!

Look carefully! It’s the Senhora, being carried through the streets

As luck would have it, I was diverted before I could even begin my climb. A banner on the side of a church building proclaimed the closing days of an art exhibition, by João Garcia Miguel. A smile from the receptionist, just inside the doors of Convento de Santo Antonio, invited me inside.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

But what an extraordinary sight greeted my eyes. I’m afraid the art exhibition took second place. The central nave of the church had been restored, in a plain and simple style, while retaining the crumbly but beautiful arches and alcoves of the side chapel.

A solitary, beautiful fresco vied with the artwork. The most joyful experience! The cloisters were barriered off and in poor condition, but restoration appeared to be ongoing. I will return, for sure. But first, a hill for us to climb…

I won’t dwell too long on Nossa Senhora da Piedade, as we’ve been there before, but I’m sure you can see the attraction. The tiny chapel was built in 1553, almost survived the earthquake of 1755, and has been restored in all its exquisite detail since then.

Overshadowed by the huge dome of the 2oth century addition, you might never know this chapel exists, but it’s been bringing the crowds here for the Easter procession since the 16th century.

I must have had my religious head on that day because, wandering back into town, I found myself drawn to Nossa Senhora da Conceição. Sitting in a quiet corner on Rua Paio Peres Correia, there’s often a queue outside this small chapel with its beautiful 18th century azulejos. I was lucky!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

So many riches in my walk today! I think we’ll just tootle past the bandstand and head for home. But, wait a minute! I’ve not treated you to cake lately, have I? Better put that right. Please, be my guest!

I do like this bandstand

Chocolate cake so, obviously, not mine!

I hope you enjoyed returning with me to Loulé today. Next week I plan to take you to Cascais, on the Lisbon coast. A change is as good as a rest?

Thanks so much for the lovely response I got last week. I’ve got some great walks to share, so let’s get that kettle on and settle in. Join me with a walk of your own any time. Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

…………………………………………………………………………………..

Anabel starts us off with a walk around a delightful Scottish island I’d never even heard of!

A walk round Kerrera

Cathy wanders in all sorts of fascinating places. Some day I’ll catch up!

A walking tour of Pest & a confusing (but fun) visit to the szechenyi thermal baths

And closer to home :

Maryland Heights : the Overlook Cliff Trail

This week Jackie is being disgustingly lazy. I know- I’m jealous!

Tutti Frutti

And Ellen only breaks into a saunter now and again :

Going for a Crazy Cabbagetown Walk/Atlanta, Georgia, Pt.2

Not our Sue, though! Energy is her middle name :

Irish Cliffs of Moher and Selfie Shenanigans

Hikeminded! Isn’t that a great name? I hope you’ll read her post too :

Berlin Day Hike : Fallen Leaves in Blumenthal

I think Carol deliberately set me up with this one. May not be quite what you expect :

Roaming in Roma

Shazza stays close to home, and braves the weather :

A waterfall walk in the Dales

And talking of weather, these seas look awfully cold, Drake!

Traveling boxes

Australian beaches are a sight to behold, especially in the company of Meg :

Eurobodalla beaches : Josh’s Beach

Woolly tells me that there are more than 2,500 Commonwealth War Grave cemeteries on the Western Front. So much sadness!

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk44_Polygon-Wood-Cemetery

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk45_Polygon-Wood-Cemetery-2

Come boardwalking in the sunny south with Pauline! It’ll set you up for the week ahead :

Joining Jo on a Monday walk

Another sunny city that I’ve always wanted to see (and don’t miss the Transporter Bridge)- thanks Cadyluck Leedy!

Jo’s Monday Walk: Bilboa, Spain

That’s it for another week. I have my last pre-Christmas walk with my walking group today, so I expect mince pies will follow.

Jo’s Monday walk : Mealha and surrounds

You might remember that one day last year I took you to some burial tombs, high in the hills of the Algarve. Not without difficulty, I might add. The Masmorra Trail was a bit of a challenge. A couple of my walking friends are hugely enthusiastic about archaeology and history, so we were all delighted when a recent Striders walk included the dolmens of Antas das Pedras Altas.

The trouble is, when I’m walking with the Striders I’m often too busy chatting to pay much attention to the route. There’s a tendency to ‘switch off’ when walking with a leader, but at least it takes the pressure off the other half. The start point for this walk was in exactly the same place, a crossroads on the edge of the village of Mealha. A modest 8.5km circular, with a steep uphill beginning.

We passed by more of the palheiros- the round huts once used by shepherds- and began our climb. The rewards were almost immediate. First a grove or two of umbrella pines. Notice how very dry everything is. It’s been a long hot Summer.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

There are 12 of these standing stones, aligned with the sun rising in the east. Astonishing to think that they have held these positions since 4th century BC, protecting the burial chamber. I have to confess to prattling on a bit at this point, or should I say exchanging information? Sharper eyes than mine spotted the well, and there wasn’t time for a closer look.

Soon we were dropping down through eucalyptus trees, fresh and green in this light, but a serious hazard should forest fires break out. This year the Algarve has been spared, but lives were lost further north. On this walk we had been encouraged to bring a picnic, due to the absence of a suitable restaurant. At a pleasantly shady spot with benches I munched a healthy apple, confident that we’d find somewhere later.

The walk continued through the dry riverbed of Ribeira de Foupana and back full circle to Mealha. It was still relatively early, the sun bright in the sky. The group were heading back to the coast, and stopping off for coffee before separating. Curiosity impelled me to check out the nearby village of Martim Longo, where I’d seen advertised Feria de Perdiz– a partridge festival. This area of the Algarve is known for the hunting and shooting of birds, a controversial subject these days. Seldom have I found a more sleepy place, but there was a bonus- the church was open.

You know when plans go awry? Seems to happen to me all too often. We wandered through the somnolent streets. Where was everybody? A burst of laughter issued from a bar and we exchanged a hopeful glance. I stopped to take photos of an interesting old building just as a truck drew up and an overalled worker climbed out. He looked at me bemusedly as I gestured to his home, then smiled and went inside to lunch.

We continued our circuit of the small village. Some bakery tiles, scything implements and a couple of water wheels, but almost no people. They must have been eating, of course, and we were peckish too. With very little choice, we made a poor selection. An elderly lady pulled herself to her feet, her companion nodding bom dia, and lumbered behind the counter. White wine? They only had tinto, which she proceeded to remove from the chiller. Seeing her struggling, with arthritic wrists, to remove the cork, the other half took the corkscrew from her to complete the job. Two large tumblers of red were poured. Peering hard at the ‘menu’ on the back wall, he then asked for a ham sandwich. She shook her head. No food! Just the prepackaged sweet biscuits on display, and a meagre selection of crisps. Not quite the lunch we had envisaged. When I expressed interest in the partridge festival, a beer drinking old lad indicated that there was much fun and dancing in the village. A little hard to imagine right then, but he went to great pains to produce a magazine (hidden away in the glass fronted, unlit stove!) showing last year’s event. We should come back?

Maybe not. A strange little place, but my curiosity was satisfied.

Salt in the wounds- when we talked to our walking friends later it transpired that they’d gone to a nice little restaurant by a pebble beach. We’d passed it on our way up the valley! If you’re tempted to follow my walk, there’s a map here.

Thanks for keeping me company this week. I’m more or less acclimatised to the UK again but I suspect I’ll be bombarding you with Portugal for a while yet. If you’d like to join me with a walk, long or short, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. I look forward to it. Meantime, pop the kettle on and let’s settle in for a good read.

………………………………………………………………………………….

Chocolate and blue skies… now there’s a winning combination! Please say hello to my new contributor, Maria :

Baroque & Chocolate… This is Modica, Sicily

Debbie managed to find some blue on the sunny south coast too :

Sidford to Sidmouth

Just Jude, doing what she does so well :

Garden Portrait : under an autumn sky

I’m not sure how much walking took place, but Andrew is always welcome here :

Portugal, A Walking Tour of Ovar

Jackie’s whizzing about again!

Salty

Drake’s getting us all in Christmas mode! Never too early for good feelings :

Arrival of the good feeling

Busy time of year and not so many walks this week. Many thanks to all of you! It’s much appreciated. Wishing you a great week.

Jo’s Monday walk : Loving Lagos

It’s not often that I venture to the western end of the Algarve but, when I do, the city of Lagos is a particular favourite of mine. I knew that my daughter loved it too, from a fleeting visit about 10 years ago. What better excuse did I need for a bit of footloose and fancy free?

The old side of town is a warren of twisting and turning switchback streets, with fleeting glimpses of interest as you whizz around a harepin bend. Lisa commented that she was glad not to be in the driving seat, but we put our faith in my valiant other half, and eventually we found parking, way up beyond the castle walls. I had not realised that they were so extensive. Following our noses led us to an interesting wall or two of graffiti.

Truth be known, these days some of Lagos is a little bit tacky with touristy shops and restaurants- a victim of its own success and having some of the Algarve’s most inviting beaches. But I can overlook a street or two that resembles Albufeira because this is a very engaging place. It has history and beautiful churches, and it has character in spades, if you go looking.

Peeping between the narrow streets, the spires of several churches catch the eye. I knew Santo Antonio by reputation, but was a little disappointed not to be able to share the astounding architecture and elaborately gilded wood with you. Photographs were forbidden, but I did manage to find a link. On the main square, Santa Maria was much less elaborate, but still beautiful.

Lagos has a history stretching back over 2000 years. Originally a Celtic settlement, it was colonised by the Romans (as Lacobriga), valuable to them for its fine harbour. When the Moors arrived in the 8th century, they added fortifications of castle and walls, and established trading with North Africa. Henry the Navigator made Lagos the centre of Portuguese maritime explorations in the 15th century, the caravels venturing further and further south along the west coast of Africa, hoping to find a route to India. In 1434 Gil Eanes succeeded in rounding the cape but sadly, within 10 years, the slave trade was established. Lagos has the dubious distinction of having Europe’s first slave market. Prince Henry received one fifth of the selling price of each slave, helping him to fund further expeditions.

With the death of Henry, Lagos continued to receive shipments of goods and slaves but its role was gradually eclipsed by the rising star of Lisbon. A string of forts was constructed along the coast to defend from pirates and neighbouring Spain. Among them, Ponta da Bandeira Fort, which sits so picturesquely on the headland. From 1576 to 1755, Lagos was capital of the Algarve, but the earthquake of 1755 destroyed much of the old town. Some of the castle walls remain but many of the current buildings date from 17th century.

Knowing my tendency to linger by the sea, I was allowed only the merest glimpse of the fort before being whisked away to lunch. The lure of white sangria just about did the trick. Over lunch we discussed ‘where next’ and Lisa made it a mission to find for me the landmark ‘green building’ which appears in many images of Lagos. We were, of course, permitted to dawdle by the odd shop. Ingenious use is being made of cork these days- everything from tiny purses to sandals, with jewellery and even clever fans. Eye catching balustrades and tumbles of flowers were duly noted.

Lisa was following Google maps (isn’t technology a wonderful thing?) in a haphazard sort of way. There were simply too many distractions. Crossing Praça Gil Eanes I could see just a snippet of Ribeira Bensafrim, the river that pours out into the ocean. We climbed gently and found ourselves in a square looking at a very colourful building, which proved to be the living science centre. ( Centro Ciência Viva de Lagos)

A restaurant terrace looked out onto the marina and busy river. No sign of the desired ‘green building’ but, as we retraced our steps downhill, there it was in all its glory. How had we missed it? ‘Azulejos e postais‘- Tiles and postcards, as it is now known, on Praça de Luis Camoes.

Close up the tiles were very beautiful, and the owner was delighted to discuss the restoration of his building. Mission accomplished, it remained to find our way back uphill to where we left the car. I hope you loved Lagos too, and enjoyed our ramble together.

I’m back in the UK now, so hopefully ‘normal’ service will resume, but I may be a while catching up. Thanks so much for your loyalty, and for staying with me. Once again I have a bumper bundle of walks to share, so do please find time to visit these lovely folk. And if you’d like to share a walk with me, just follow the logo. Many thanks!

…………………………………………………………………………………………….

Everybody should see this place once in their lifetime, so thanks, Lady Lee :

Santorini

While nobody does spectacular better than Debbie :

Slow and exposed walk along the Thames

Drake treated me to the warm glow of Autumn in a place that I love :

Colorful Autumn

And Elaine took me to her pretty home patch, too :

Early November walk by the canal

While Jill took me to a place that I’ve long wanted to visit :

Come explore Cadiz with me

And Cadyluck Leedy took me to an area that I don’t know at all!

Jo’s Monday Walk : Dinan, France

Liesbet has some spectacular photos, taken between house sits :

Southern Utah’s National Parks

And Violet takes me waterfalling

Inglis Falls

I did think Silly Back Lane an odd place name, but then I looked again. Cheers, Jude!

Siblyback Lake

But then Woolly made me sad all over again :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk43_Gibraltar-Bunker

There’s something so distinctive about French windows and shutters. And about Tobias; style :

Beynac, Part One

Beynac, Part Two

I’m really enjoying Carol’s ‘close to home’ series, with their wonderful details. Just look at these trees!

BYO Birdseed

Becky’s cheating a little bit with this one :

Glass, iron and steel at Kew

But on Friday morning I was sitting right here, waiting for the ferry to the Ilha. Sunny memories :

A short stroll at Quatro Aguas

I have a gazillion photos to sort, including those from Lumiere in Durham last night. Amazing stuff! It’s forecast a damp week so it looks like I’ll have time to spare. Whatever you get up to, I hope it’s a good week for you. Take care!

Jo’s Monday walk : Martinhal to Baleeira

Embracing the sea again this week, I’m in the far west of the Algarve, just before you reach the mighty cliffs of Sagres. This somewhat lunar landscape is not at all what I’m accustomed to. (Is it just me or does the rock below bear a passing resemblance to a Storm Trooper?)

Yes, I thought so! His smile’s a bit crooked and evil. It’s a beautiful bay, reached from a turn off on the N125, signposted Praia do Martinhal. A smart looking resort overlooks the beach, but nestled below is an agreeably casual restaurant. Portuguese families have brought the children to Sunday lunch, and are chattering away like magpies.

A small girl sits on the sand while Dad tussles with a kite, strongwilled in the offshore breeze. Two fit-looking youngsters carry paddleboards down to the water’s edge, launch them smoothly and paddle away. Out in the bay windsurfers zip to and fro, with varying degrees of accomplishment. I simply watch. The only activity I’m any good at is walking.

The other half has found a comfortable spot, sheltered from the wind, and I’m off round the headland to see what I can find. A generous sweep of beach ends in more rocks, with a tempting path mounting to the cliff top.

I’m picking my way fairly carefully when I hear music and laughter. A cautious peep over the cliff edge reveals a group of young folk setting up a barbecue on a slab of rock. Someone has been very busy with a brush and a pot or two of paint.

Across the bay the towering cliffs of Sagres loom closer, and below them the fishing port of Baleeira. There’s a small strip of beach at Baleeira which is also walkable from Sagres town. A stiff breeze keeps the windsurfers scudding swiftly. I look back to check how far I’ve come. Not too far but it’s time to return and collect the husband.

Now, where did I leave him?

It’s not a long walk but, if you like to feel the breeze in your hair and you’re not afraid of heights, you might enjoy it. This was a small part of my birthday celebrations and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

I should be back to ‘normal’ next week. I apologise if my visits to you are spasmodic. I’m struggling with a poor Internet connection and I intend to enjoy the last few days of my Algarve time with my daughter. Time together is very precious. Meantime I have some great walks to share, so thank you everybody.

Tish seems to have found her very own path to paradise :

On the Path to Harakopio ~ Peroulia Dreaming 13

As strange titles go, I give full credit to Ellen for this one :

Going for a Crazy Cabbagetown Walk in Atlanta, Georgia- Pt 1

And Cathy’s is a bit of a tongue teaser too :

Budapest : The Great Synagogue & a stroll down Vaci Utca in Belvaros

Mari’s walk is a little more sombre, but no less beautiful :

A Walk on the Ramparts of Ypres

And Woolly commemorates the Australian deceased from World War II :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk42_Windmill-Site

Roll up! Roll up! Step right this way to see Violet’s pink elephant :

A circus treat

I share some wonderful memories of Lucca with Jesh (and Gilly!)

TIME- Where did it go?

You can usually rely on Jackie for a…

Flourish!

I don’t have any grandkids to play with like Sandra, but I did borrow one recently :

Walk

Indra is sharing spectacular scenery in this week’s walk :

Bay of Fundy…. Magic on the Rocks

Kathrin loves to hike in the mountains. This one sounds like a song!

Hike up Mount Umunhum

My lovely friend, Pauline, has been rambling in the Australian outback. You’ll love her findings!

Kings Canyon, time to sketch…

And here’s some artwork from Susan that I know she’ll love too :

Hunting a City-wide Art Installation : Ai Weiwei’s Good Fences Make Good Neighbours

Have a great week everyone, and I’ll be back in England next weekend. Once again, apologies if I miss anyone.

Jo’s Monday walk : Culatra- an easy amble

I’m going to be a bit lazy for my first walk back with you. After all, I’m still in the Algarve, nominally on holiday, but in fact testing out a new lifestyle to see if it suits me. Many of you won’t be surprised to find that it does. I have taken you to Ilha da Culatra before, but my Stroller friends were going there recently and I just had to tag along. I’m sure you’ll see the attraction.

Culatra is an island of fisherfolk, but it doesn’t spurn the attention of tourists or beach worshippers who make the effort to cross over from the mainland. I regularly promote Enjoy the Algarve, a monthly online magazine full of fascinating events and details. Culatra features briefly this month and I thought you might like to see a little more.

Smooth as a millpond

Count the seabirds?

Boats for working and pleasure

Embarkation from Olhão is an easy affair. Ida e volta will get you a return ticket. We chose to disembark at Farol, the second port of call on this long, barrier island, guarded by a strut of a lighthouse with a red cap.

Weaving between a few cottages and a restaurant, almost immediately you reach the beach.

I couldn’t decide quite what the waves were jumping so playfully over, but they held me captive so that I had to scoot to catch up with the others. Of course, you can linger at the beach for as long as you like, but the walkers are single-minded folk and food was a top priority. A boardwalk turns inland, leading back to the village of Culatra, the first port of call.

I couldn’t take my eyes off the bougainvillea

You can feel the heat!

Abandoned?

Maybe I’d stay at this one

With it’s delicious flowers

To escape the heat of the sun there are several restaurants. As usual I was more interested in my surroundings than food, so I grabbed a quick bite and set off again with my camera.

This villa was opposite my restaurant

The shells were set into the wall

Making a grand image

Another contender for favourite flower

Half a boat is better than none?

No idea who they support?

Here’s a clue

Another pot or two

And a simple veranda

It’s a very basic lifestyle. Sand and sea rule and necessities have to be shipped from the shore. As I’m writing this a thunderstorm is rattling overhead and I know that the islands are in the frontline for inclement weather. Hard to imagine on a day like this, but I’ve heard this ocean roar.

It’s a gritty shoreline

With green hued urchins

Abandoned boats aplenty

And even acrobatic seagulls

And the distant gleam of sandbars

There’s an element of scruffiness that doesn’t suit everybody. No manicured greens to tee off on here. But I was highly amused to find, right by the water’s edge, a miniature football pitch. Evidence of another Portuguese passion!

And then it’s time to make for the ferry, wending back past ochre houses, idle bikes and always a twist or two of flowers.

The still calm waters of Olhão await, Becky. No changes yet!

I hope you’ve enjoyed being back in the Algarve with me. I still have another week or so to go. My daughter joins me on Sunday so I expect to be quite distracted but I’ll try to post another walk next week, and keep up with comments on this one. Take good care till then!

Please find time to check out these walks, if you haven’t already done so. Many thanks to all of you for your loyalty and support, even while I’ve been absent. Special thanks to Meg and to Jude for lovely birthday surprises for me.

……………………………………………………………………………….

I am a huge admirer of this lady’s work, so thank you very much for joining me, Debbie :

Street art galore

Another lady who always produces beautiful work. Take yourself strolling with Susan :

A Saturday Stroll at Wave Hill

A Leisurely Sunday Stroll through Brooklyn’s Green-Wood Cemetery

I wonder what Jackie might have cooked up this week?

Home cookin’

There’s nothing like good company on a walk. Tobias has a style all his own, and I love it :

Perigueux

Les Jardins d’Eau

Candy takes me to parts of Brittany I didn’t even know existed :

Pilgrim Route and Chapels

There’s much more to Birmingham than meets the eye, and you can rely on Becky to find it :

Dragons, Rags and Shiny Things

What’s Woolly been up to? Keeping very busy!

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk39_Le-Hamel_Australian-Memorial

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk40_Le-Hamel_Australian-Memorial-2

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk41_Tank-Monument

Carol explores her own backyard, but Australia’s a big country :

Staying Up, Looking Out

I do love a garden, and Cadyluck Leedy has a really fine one to share :

Jo’s Monday Walk : Sandhills Horticultural Gardens

And a place I’ve always wanted to visit :

Jo’s Monday Walk : Mont Saint Michel, France

Why not try it Marsha’s way? The scenery is beautiful, even if the company is grumpy :

Why We Didn’t Take the Train to the Grand Canyon from Sedona

How to Get Someone Out of a Grouchy Mood Even if you’re at the Grand Canyon

I wouldn’t have expected to miss fog, but Jude’s walk on misty Bodmin is hauntingly lovely :

The Cheesewring

And finally, Kaz gladdens the heart with a gazillion, glorious jacaranda!

Jacarandas of Woolloomooloo

Much love to you all from my sunny Algarve home. See you soon!

Jo’s Monday walk : A whizz around Beverley

Many of you had never heard of Beverley in East Yorkshire when I shared my recent visit to its magnificent Minster. I’m back this morning to give you a whistlestop tour of the town. Hold on to your hats!

It was another of those whims of mine that took me there on a coach trip one September day. The journey seemed tortuous and I wondered why I was putting myself through it, but immediately I set foot inside the Minster I knew that it had been worthwhile.

I glimpsed the spires as we drove into town and as soon as the coach doors opened I was off and beelining for it. I found the Tourist Information office on Butcher Row en route, and grabbed a map with details of the Beverley Town Trail. Patience not being my middle name, when I realised that it gave a choice of 4 local walks I threw up my hands and just got on with the job. Straight down Highgate brought me to the gates of the Minster. It was a grey old sky, not bringing out the best of the old stone, yet the building had presence.

Bowled over by Beverley will take you inside, if you missed it. Glancing at the map when I came out, I continued around the outside of the grounds to Minster Yard South. I was quite surprised to find a grassy paddock with cows grazing contentedly, here in the middle of town. I knew that it was a market town, but still, a little strange? The white phonebox set a smile on my face as I continued onto Eastgate.

I detoured, as directed, on Friary Walk for a look at the former Friary, but this was planted firmly in the midst of a housing complex, and I did not loiter. Back towards Wednesday Market- what an endearing name for the square, peaceful on a Thursday, with pavement cafes and coffee drinkers enjoying the mild temperatures. On along Butcher Row, taking more notice this time of an interesting mix of shops and eating places.

I stopped occasionally to consult the trail guide, which was full of fascinating snippets of information. Medieval Beverley was a wealthy town with a diverse population of skilled workers. Carpenters, armourers, printers, locksmiths, weavers, hatters, brewers, ropemakers- the list is impressive and comprises 39 different medieval guilds. Do you know what trade a fletcher pursued? No- nor me! (He made arrows) The trail encourages you to look for signs of each, but time was precious. I was heading for Saturday Market and a handsome Market Cross.

It surprised me to read that Beverley was once the 10th largest town in England, and one of the richest, based on the wool industry and the pilgrims who came here to venerate its founder. The town dates back to 700AD, when St. John of Beverley founded a monastery on the site of the Minster.

Market Cross sits most elegantly at the heart of the square known as Saturday Market, surrounded by attractive buildings. Did you notice two more white telephone boxes? Saturday is the main market day here and I can imagine traffic coming to a standstill. Just beyond the square you can see the tower of St. Mary’s Church, and that’s where I headed next. As luck would have it, closing was at 4, giving me half an hour to explore.

St. Mary’s was founded in 1120 and the foundations of the early Norman building are still visible in places. A notable feature of the church are the stone carvings. The Minstrel Pillar is shown below but I missed the carving of a rabbit dressed as a pilgrim, dated around 1330 and said to have been the inspiration for Lewis Carroll’s White Rabbit. (You can see him on this link) The vestry ceiling is painted to represent a map of the heavens, and reminded me of Polish churches I’ve seen.

Amazing to have such a beautiful church and the Minster in one small town. The ceiling of the chancel is quite breathtaking and I was thrilled to be able to get close to the 28 wonderfully carved misericords. And who can resist that humble donkey, waiting in the wings?

Take a breath! The misericords next…

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

My time in Beverley was running out, and looking at the trail guide it seems I’d covered most of the 4 walks. I was disappointed not to have found the Beck and its shipping heritage, but a bonus was the logically named North Bar Within and North Bar Without. They sandwich North Bar, the earliest brick built town entrance in England.

Heading back to the coach, there was just time to stick my nose in the Coronation Garden, formerly owned by St. Mary’s Church, which explains the headstones. The benches were empty but I couldn’t stop.

I grabbed a takeaway coffee and a few munchies and subsided onto the bus home, via the Humber Bridge. But that will have to wait for another time. I’m off to the Algarve on Wednesday and not sure exactly when I’ll be posting again.

Did you manage to keep up? I hope you enjoyed it. I’m onto my second cup of coffee and I’m hoping you’ll do the same. Put the kettle on and have a good read. All of these are worth it so please do visit them. Thank you so much to everyone who’s taken part and kept me company all these weeks. I’ll be popping in on you when I can.

Starting with an introduction- meet Nadja and her scene stealing photos of Austria :

The Maltese Valley

Fantastic memories of one lovely lady, from another! Thanks so much, Becky :

An evening stroll for Jo

What would you expect to find at a zoo? Violet had a bit of a surprise :

At the zoo

I adore dates, and here’s Jackie teasing me with date cake!

Matrimonial cake

Are you an early morning jogger? Ju-Lyn has the nicest surrounds to tempt you out of bed :

Guess who I met at the Singapore Botanic Gardens?

Candy has some really lovely walks in Brittany. This is just one of many :

A walk around Landerneau

Kathrin is determined to hike Half Dome one day, but this looks just as good!

North Dome Hike

Carol’s finally finished her English adventures. What next? I think I know :

The Last Afternoon

Woolly has a wonderful way with our feathered friends :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk38_Balyang-Sanctuary-2

Bringing a bit of desert heat our way, I wish I was looking over Drake’s shoulder :

In the sand

And with even more sand in the picture, this is a real beauty from Karen, if a little strenuous!

The Three Beaches Walk

Putting up a gutsy performance and us dilettantes to shame, I’m ending on a real high with Lexie :

High Tatras High

Ending on a high is always a good way to go. Take good care of yourselves, and I’ll be back before you know it.

Jo’s Monday walk : Ruswarp to Whitby (and back)

Memory is a strange thing, isn’t it? I was sure I’d walked this walk with you, from Ruswarp to Whitby and back again. I even remember telling how I was like a drowned rat when the skies opened on the way back. Sitting in a puddle, eating a cheese sandwich and looking out of the pub window at the rain is not my idea of fun. The Guinness was good, but it was a sunny riverside setting I had in mind. Apparently my memory lies. Nowhere could I find that original post! Nor photos to accompany it. Strange tricks memory plays!

I walked this way again recently, with a sunnier ending, and this time I’m determined to share it with you. It’s tinged with sadness today, because it’s a year ago that Dad died. There was nothing he liked better, if he had company, than to whisk them into his car and off over the Moors to Whitby. Fish and chips and a pint and he was happy with life. He couldn’t walk far but was always fiercely independent (in a soft, gentlemanly way). The last time we were there together he parked the car on the cliff top. Somehow we ended up down at street level, and then were faced with the challenge of getting back up there again. I seriously doubted we’d ever make it but, with many pauses, we did.

Ruswarp is a charming village, a little over a mile inland from Whitby, along the River Esk. The Esk Valley Railway runs through the village and sometimes you’re treated to the sight and sound of steam. By the riverside you can hire rowing boats and canoes, and take canoeing lessons. This gentle walk is signposted off the main street and follows a stone pannierway, known locally as Monk’s Trod. Watch out for a bit of an uphill haul as you leave the river and approach Whitby, on the Esk Valley Walk.

You have a couple of choices for leaving the walk to enter Whitby. Last time I followed the Cinder Track but this time I opted for West Cliff. Either option will bring you close to Pannell Park and from there you’re close to the seafront, and the monument to the bombardment.

This is where Dad parked, close by the monument to James Cook, looking across to Whitby Abbey and near to the whalebone arch. I remember the relief with which he subsided onto a bench when we made it back up that cliff.

I was lucky to be heading downwards, admiring the views on the way. Into the ‘Screaming tunnel’, alleged to have been used by Dracula to frighten his victims, and out the other side. Best done in daylight.

Down on the harbourside the seagulls are in raucous control, while St. Mary’s church looks down with the serenity of centuries.

The swing bridge remains locked in position, while Whitby is full of its usual bustle. To escape the crowd for a while we duck into our favourite little eating place, tucked away in the quiet of Sander’s Yard. Healthy food, you’ll note! (I won’t show you his chips) And I only looked at the cup cakes.

Leaving the bucket and spade brigade behind, it’s time to carry on, past the marina and down to the very end of the car park. There you will find a footpath that runs between the railway and a boatyard. Hold on- you’re in for a treat! Look what’s coming!

It’s always a sight to gladden the heart, and I watch it disappear into the distance before turning my gaze back to the river. At this point we have lovely views back to Whitby, while ahead lies the 120 foot high viaduct, built to carry the Whitby-Scarborough railway. The route was closed in 1965 and the Cinder Track walking and cycling path I mentioned earlier now runs across it.

The River Esk was used to power corn mills in the village of Ruswarp, though the last closed in 1962. The weir built to channel water into a mill-race has been adapted to power a hydro-electric project on the south bank. As I follow the river, suddenly I can hear a whooping and a hollering. Looking over the hedge I’m amused to see what looks like a scene from ‘Swallows and Amazons’. The schoolkids are having a whale of a time.

I’m almost back to my start point when there’s the hoot of a whistle behind me. Spinning round I’m delighted to see the engine racing along, black steam pouring from its funnel. Steam trains don’t stop in Ruswarp, but slow at the level crossing where our trail ends.

Five minutes later and we’re back on the riverbank, where we began. I hope you enjoyed coming along with me.

Yesterday we did what Dad would have wanted. The family got together in a pub that he liked, and we talked and we laughed. It was easy to imagine him there with us. Today it’s all just memories. God bless, Dad!

Dad in Krakow with Uncle Wlodek

And in Belchatow with tiny Piotrek

Thank you all for your company. I hope you can find a little more time to visit these walks that people have kindly contributed. If you’d like to join in, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. I’ll make you very welcome. Time to put the kettle on now.

……………………………………………………………………………………………..

Let’s start with an introduction. Melodie lives in Manchester and she loves tea :

Hike around Edale, Peak District

You’ll enjoy Jude’s stroll in the YSP. I certainly did!

Yorkshire Sculpture Park : Part Two

Maybe you should bring a blow-up boat for this walk with Violet :

The Fishing Islands

Jackie’s raring to go, as ever! And well supplied :

Chuck Wagon

Fitbits are all the rage, aren’t they? Marsha has it under control!

How to Get an Easy 10,000 steps in Sedona, AZ

Sometimes you can simply overdo it. Believe me, Liesbet, I know!

Day Trips around Santa Fe, NM- Sandia Mountains, Albuquerque

Petroglyph National Monument, Albuquerque

Janet shares some fascinating details of this National Park :

The Badlands 1

The Badlands 2

While Lady Lee is living the good life!

Being pampered in Das Kranzbach

You have to get up early for peace and quiet in Singapore, but you’ll be welcome to join Ju-Lyn :

Running to stillness on Orchard Road

Kathrin’s planning on some physical hiking in Yosemite. I’d love to join her :

Places in California : Q is for…

While Woolly has some fun with the birds :

Jo’s-Monday–Walk-Wk38_Balyang-Sanctuary

I’m ending today with my lovely friend, Gilly, showing us yet another side to beautiful Firenze :

A walk in the Oltrarno

Many thanks to you all, and wishing you a great week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Coverham Abbey

Coverham Abbey lies on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales in a serene and beautiful spot. This 13th century former monastery was home to the Norbertines, but was badly damaged in an attack by the Scots in 1331. Despite this monks remained in residence until 1536, when the abbey was dissolved and converted to a private residence. In the 18oos Coverham Abbey House was constructed, incorporating some of the monastic features. The original gatehouse partially survives, along with church ruins around which the garden has been sympathetically designed.

The drive swerves around to a grand entrance, and there you are, looking through the ruins of the church.

The charming knot garden was designed in 2003, but based on a simple knot drawing in a locally discovered book dating back to 1484.

Not sure what more to expect, you round the corner to be confronted with a pair of carved stone effigies. The knights are thought to be likenesses of the sons of Helewisia, the foundress of the abbey.

Beyond these, a sequence of delightful garden rooms, with a backdrop of sheep and fields. A ‘faux’ wall divides opinion. I quite like it, but my designer husband shakes his head in disapproval.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Guarding the front of the house, two slender, alert hounds, nose deep in a thrilling concoction of cosmos and tobacco plants.

And around the corner, dining ‘al fresco’, with a colourful touch, and the most perfect of views.

Did you spot the old gatehouse, over the fence, or were you too bedazzled by the sunflowers? They were the most spectacular shades!

I’m going to finish with a flourish, because I like to. Beyond that ‘faux’ wall lies a vegetable garden with an old conservatory. Remember my dahlias from Six word Saturday? I found a few more!

Not too much walking involved this week because it’s a garden visit, but there are ample opportunities in the surrounding hills and vales. My visit was through the Open Gardens scheme, and there you’ll find all the details you need.

I don’t know if you’ve been counting squares lately? I needed another 9 to take me to the end of September, and I believe I’ve exceeded that. Go and have fun with Becky! She’s loving Square in September.

Just got time to thank you all for your wonderful contributions and support. Please do find time to read these if you can! You may make some new friends. I’m going to pop the kettle on now. Join me next week? Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

………………………………………………………………………………….

First this week, I’d like to introduce you to a lady called Candy. Please do say hello :

A circular walk around Le Quillio

You know I love a marina! Come and join Violet for a lovely little stroll :

Following the PE&NS RR!

Big, beautiful Wyoming skies from Janet! How’s this for a sunset?

End of day

Liesbet continues to explore the neighbourhood. This week it’s down New Mexico way :

Day Trips around Santa Fe, NM – Los Alamos

Jackie’s always ‘full of beans’, it seems :

Cowboy beans

Poor Ann Christine! Loaded with cold and now the computer crashes. She needs a soft landing place :