Jo’s Monday walk : In search of Tiles

There were two main reasons for my visit to Lisbon last October.  I’ve already shared with you the first- the Jerónimos Monastery.  This is the second- the Museu Nacional do Azulejo.  It’s not normally recommended to walk there, but it’s not a great distance, and there’s a very nice restaurant when you arrive.  So, why not?

My start point was Praça do Comércio, always an interesting space, where Lisbon fronts the water.  Some people can sleep anywhere, can’t they?

I even found a tiny strip of beach, but let’s not get distracted.  The road threads along the riverfront, beneath Alfama.  Roadworks were a bit of a nuisance, as was a chap on a bench, who misdirected us for the price of a euro.  That’s cities for you!  I had it in my head that along the way I might stop off at São Vicente de Fora, for the cloisters, a coffee, and a view.  Don’t try it on foot!  A tuk-tuk ride would be a much better idea.

Google Maps showed that it was only 1.2 miles from the Praça to the museum, but I found myself hugging shade as it was remarkably warm for late October.  Interesting rather than scenic is how I would describe the route, as we passed the cruise terminal and then Santa Apolónia railroad station.  At a bridge spanning railway and docks, a tourist bus sped past.  And then, amazingly, there it was!

What a wonderful use for an old monastery.  Tile lovers, you are in for a treat!  The convent of Madre de Deus was founded in 1509 by Queen Leonor.  Over time, many azulejo panels were stored there, and in 1957 it was decided to have an exhibition commemorating 500 years after Leonor’s birth.  The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation undertook the restoration work needed.  When the exhibition ended, in Jauary 1958, a wealth of tiles were available and it was proposed to transfer the Ceramic Section of Lisbon’s Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga to the building.  It was finally opened to the public as a museum in the 1970s.

First things first!  It was into the restaurant for some recovery time with delicious salads, in a prettily tiled setting, or a leafy outdoor courtyard if you preferred.  Fully fortified, it was time to tackle three floors of azulejos.

The museum surrounds the courtyard and cloisters, and has an incredible collection of azulejos, dating from 16th century to present day.

The magnificently restored church is incorporated into the museum.  You will be advised not to miss it and I could easily see why.  The decor includes rich, gilded woodwork, fine paintings and, of course, azulejo panels.

Time to climb to the next level.  There are interesting distractions along the way, but if you really can’t manage it then there’s a lift.

The azulejos change style and era on the next floor.  I tried to keep track of the accompanying details but it was too difficult.  Much easier to simply admire.  The museum website has an App to help you identify the pieces.

One of the most thrilling aspects of my visit to the Jerónimos Monastery was the moment when I stepped through a doorway to find myself looking down into the body of the church.  The same thing happens with Madre de Deus on the second level of the museum. I love the feeling of omniscience.  A seat in the Gods.

There is just one more level.  The exhibition culminates, at the top of the building, with an amazing 40 metre panorama of Lisbon, dating from 1730.  I have to admit, my eyes were starting to glaze over by the time I’d looked my fill.

The good news is that you don’t have to walk all the way back to the centre.  There’s a bus stop directly outside the museum and in 10 minutes you can be whizzed back to Rossio, and a different world.

Thanks for your company again this week.  It’s much appreciated.  I hope you can join me with a walk of your own soon.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Meantime please do enjoy these :

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Powder white, fresh snow makes for the most beautiful scenery.  Thanks, Drake!

The white track

I think Pauline might be grateful for a handful or two :

Hiding from the heat in the gallery

Becky will be enjoying this in a week or so’s time :

Another glimpse of the Guadiana

You could get the impression that Jackie doesn’t do anything but eat!

Cold Turkey

And Woolly?  He’s visiting War Graves again :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk48_Prowse-Point

An old friend takes us on a hike, California style.  Thanks, Kongo!

March to the Sea

Ending with something simply splendiferous!  Don’t miss this from Jude :

Heligan by Night

Whatever the week has in store, I hope you enjoy it.  I’m off out with my English walking group today.  See you soon!

 

150 comments

  1. Those tiles are amazing Jo! So much work must have gone into creating them and they provide such a wonderful change from paint and plaster. Do you know if there are still artists in Portugal practicing the craft?

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    1. Yes, there are shops throughout the Algarve where you can buy a cheaper, ‘mass produced but not quite’ version, and if you’re lucky you can come across an artesanato at work. We used to have one not far from Tavira but sadly he retired.

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      1. It is sad when the art/knowledge dies with the artist, so many people are in it to make money not quality. There does seem to be a resurgence with traditional arts and crafts in some countries, hopefully it spreads.

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  2. I wonder how they make the azulejos. (I suspect they lay tiles out and paint. But a few of the pieces look like it was initially painted and glazed, then cut into tiles.)
    Regardless, the interior aspects of this walk look delightful Jo. Thanks for taking us along!

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    1. I watched a couple of videos on tile production, Gabe. It’s quite fascinating.

      Stencils are used in ‘mass production’ but you need a steady hand. 🙂 I’ll post the vid over at yours in case you don’t see this. It’s very short.

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      1. Very cool Jo, looks like they do lay out tiles to paint the complete picture. Tile looks like a difficult “canvas” to work with. I think I’ll stick with my digital canvas. So much easier to correct mistakes;)

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    1. I think we’ll call you early, Pauline, but I’m grateful for sunshine this grey old day. Yesterday was bright and joyful, even if cold. You can wrap up against that but you can’t do much to alter the sky. Thanks darlin 🙂 🙂

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  8. Pingback: A walk round my patch – Living in Paradise…

  12. My question. How long is your viewing stamina? Yesterday I proved mine’s about an hour before I lose focus. This place would take me four visits at least I think. As would your post. What a treat to have tiles laid on like this in one place, and plenty of sub treats as well.

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    1. A couple of hours is probably about it, Meg. If we hadn’t misadventured our way there we would have stopped to eat midway, but my life is never like that. 🙂 🙂 It’s a bit out of the way and it’s taken me 3 visits to Lisbon to get there so I was happy to spend the time. What did you get up to yesterday? 🙂

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  13. How beautiful, and I’m not surprised you were starting to fade by the end. With so much to see and admire, it’s the sort of place you need to go for an hour or two once a week. I love the colours in the tiles.

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  17. oh you were brave walking! We got the bus both ways . . . but it is an a amazing find once you get though isn’t it. Like you I was struggling by the time I got to the third floor as there is so much to see – I think next time I might start at the top and work my way down!!

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    1. Or visit the restaurant part way through. It was just that we needed to sit down when we got there. It was more complicated than I’ve written about in here. Blame the ‘helpful’ chap sitting on a bench. 🙂 🙂

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  18. With so many people dealing with brutal and cold weather, this post will surely give them visual warmth! Ah, so nice and sunny – and strong light and shadows.

    You’ve definitely had total immersions in amazing tiles – wow, even on the outsides of the buildings!

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    1. It’s been a nightmare, hasn’t it? We had a hard white frost here this morning but very pleasant to be out and about in, well wrapped up. 🙂 I do know just how lucky I am.

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      1. i get only glimpses of the world news, including the weather… but i try to keep my finger on the pulse as often as possible. hope this week has brought warmer temps and glorious sunshine! it’s sunny here in the cloud forest – highs about 80F and lows about 70.. poor me!

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  20. A monastery, a church AND tiles! What a superb outing. I think I might have taken the bus there and back though. I have made the mistake of walking to places along less than charming routes before, though you did spy a few beauties along the way. You had me smiling with “…my eyes were starting to glaze over …” I was wondering how you chose which tiles to photograph. I think in this case I might have just forgotten about the camera. Love the Lisbon panorama. I prefer those scenes to the ornate tiles, and the blue and white to the coloured, though some geometric coloured ones can be very beautiful. At this rate I won’t need to revisit Lisbon as you are kindly showing me all the things I missed 😀

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    1. It actually wasn’t a bad route once you got past the roadworks, Jude. Just not ‘tourist Lisbon’. It may well be one day, but not everyone’s a glutton for punishment like me. Truth be told I’d intended to break the journey at Sao Vicente but we never got there. I’ll have to go back now! And there’s one other delightful old palace and gardens I need to see. If I live long enough. 🙂 🙂 Mick might throttle me first! Glad to oblige, m’dear!

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      3. It looks nice but I have no idea where it is as your site is in Portuguese. The Camino looks tough from Jill’s account and she was with her husband for support. But I don’t mind sharing you 😉 😉

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      4. Good of you, she says drily. And in that case you might have to share Micheal too. Now there’s a treat for all concerned! And have you never heard of Google Translate, woman? You just click on the text and it will offer to translate to English for you. Actually I thought I’d sent the translated version. My Portuguese is NOT fluent. 🙂 🙂

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