Jo’s Monday walk : City of Birmingham (24 hours in Brum)

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Britain’s second largest city, Birmingham, stormed my senses from the moment I first saw it.  Approaching by coach from the north, I gazed in horror at the piles of rubble and the cranes, skulking behind billboards.  In these testing times, it felt not a little like the scene of a recent disaster. But I needn’t have worried.  Apparently Birmingham is constantly reinventing itself, and I very much liked where my footsteps led me.

Frugality being one of my traits, I was staying a little off the beaten track.  As I raised my camera to take a shot of some Lemonade Fizzballs in a shop window, I was unaware that I was colliding with the city’s industrial past.  The Back to Backs on Hurst St. are all that is left of the cheap housing, swiftly erected to cope with the boom times of the Industrial Revolution.  Every imaginable type of industry thrived in Birmingham at that time.  James Watt, Matthew Boulton and William Murdoch, the luminaries in my lead photo, were pioneers and members of the Lunar Society- a melting-pot of scientific and industrial ideas.  I hesitate to admit that ‘rag rugs’ are part of my childhood memories.

Directly opposite, ‘The Old Fox Theatre Bar’ gave me a warm welcome, as it waited for customers from The Hippodrome Theatre.  The area adjoins Chinatown.  Noodle bars galore and a feast of eating opportunities.  The following morning was not quite so welcoming, and I returned to the city in a fine drizzle. Still, I had a smile on my face, for I was going to be Meeting Gilly.  The couple of hours till her arrival time were not to be wasted, and I set off in a clockwise direction.  The landmark buildings The Mailbox and The Cube were on my agenda.

Cheerful lanterns lit the path beneath the subway, then I dripped my way up The Mailbox steps.  What a revelation!

The Mailbox is a combination of art gallery and shopping complex, within the structure of Brum’s old postal sorting office.  I was in need of a little warmth and comfort, and the tulip-shaped chairs of the Bellini & Espresso Bar were pure invitation.

Just as I was settling in to a mouthful of luxury, the alarm bells began to ring and a stern voice announced that an investigation was taking place. Evacuation might soon be called for!  Fortunately, nothing further occurred, but just for a moment…

All too soon I was back on the streets, if anything, even damper than before.  Well, if I was going to be wet, I might as well head for the canals. Boats always boost my mood.  As I turned the corner to The Cube,  I glimpsed water.  Closely followed by soggy boats and dripping padlocks!

You might recollect that this pub in Gas Street Basin is where, later, I ate with Gilly.  The vegetarian menu looked promising, if a little damp!  As I looked back at The Cube, I thought I saw just a hint of sunlight.  Was I fooling myself?

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Back under the subway, I headed along Navigation St. in the direction of New Street Station.  This building had been beckoning to me for a closer look ever since my arrival in Birmingham.  A futuristic train shape, from a distance it intrigued.  Close quarters revealed a multitude of reflections.

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And THEN my eyes lit up.  Trams!  A source of much childish delight for me.  I studied their comings and goings for a few minutes, but it was almost time to go and meet my accomplice for the day.  The skies had brightened at last as I headed towards the coach station.  Just as I was consulting my map, looking for an elusive Mill Lane, a burst of sunny rain hit me.  Up went the brolly again, and I hopped onto the steps of a small, friendly-looking police station.  Seconds later, my phone rang.  ‘Where are you?’ a smiling voice asked.

Now I don’t know quite why, but a little voice inside my head was singing ‘if you want to know the way, ask a policeman!’  Well, why not?  In I went, and the police were every bit as friendly as their station looked.  They insisted on going online to find Mill Lane for me. By the time they had done so, my ray of sunshine had arrived.  Grinning from ear to ear.

Meeting Gilly tells the story of our day.  Linking arms we set off, first in search of refreshment, and then in the general direction of Birmingham Library.  A peep inside St. Martin in the Bullring was just enough to reveal the ravishing stained glass windows by local artist, Edward Burne-Jones. (Sorry- no photos allowed).  Bypassing The Bullring, reincarnated in style, and on into New Street, where we both delighted to find old style shopping arcades with beautiful ceilings.

So much to love about Brum!  By now I was starting to take the cranes and the billboards for granted.  I could forgive much in a city with a library like this one.  I wish I’d had time for the Secret Garden on the 7th floor and more than just a glimpse at the Shakespeare Memorial Room.

I guess what I’m saying is that 24 hours in Brum is not enough!  I still need to know more about Brindley Place and the sensory clock. And we never did manage to fit in St. Philip’s Cathedral with it’s Burne-Jones stained glass masterpieces.  Nor even try Fumo’s restaurant, recommended by my good friend Richard (A Bit of Culture) and the Rough Guide.

Get yourself a city map and take a walking tour.  You won’t regret it!  And now, for goodness sake, where’s the coffee?

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Thank you so much everybody, for putting up with me and my rambles.  I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Birmingham with Gilly.  If you have a walk you’d like to share, you can join me anytime.  The details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page, or just click on the logo. And now the best bit- some wonderful shares!

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First past the post again this week!  Drake’s lovely ‘home’ island :

Same style, but different

I missed one last week so humble apologies to Liesbet in Massachusetts :

(Super)Natural Wonders around us

Becky made me smile with some wonderful memories of Lisbon (and a bit of humph-ing!)

It’s a Monday so it must be time for a walk

And from the Azores… be still my beating heart!  Thanks, Susan :

Walking and Walking and Walking in Ponta Delgada, Portugal

Prepare for a lot of knowledge about the Hurons!  Jackie’s on the case :

Sainte-Marie Among the Hurons

Something a little different from BiTi this week :

Let’s hike the Stanford Dish Loop Trail

And Geoff is ambling along a river bank, being smug.  With Dog, of course!

Summer strolls#walking#suffolk

Violet Sky has found the nicest garden to match that nice town.  Have a wander!

A nice garden in a nice town

Cathy’s latest is huge!  Check out the Orangery :

Philadelphia’s Longwood Gardens

Jaspa’s building up a sweat in among some beautiful Mayan ruins :

Climbing an Ancient Mayan Pyramid at Coba, Mexico

And cooling down by the water in a lovely Cornish village.  Different, huh?

Boscastle Harbour, Cornwall, 12 years after the Floods 

One of the loveliest walks it has ever been my privilege to feature.  Meg, you’re a love!

Vignettes from a morning walk, 5

What a corker from Corey!  Jude, you’ll love this one :

Westchester’s Hidden Gem : Untermyer Park and Gardens

Carol in Cairns!  Has a good sound to it, don’t you think?

Riding The Waves

And an encore from Badfish!  Only now he’s playing at Knight’s Templar in a sublime setting :

Another Side of Malta : Day One

Sorry if I’ve walked you to exhaustion this week.  I promise to be kinder next Monday.  Have a great week and take good care of yourselves.

P.S I just popped over to Monday Escapes and it reminded me to say ‘White Rabbit’!

 

 

159 comments

  1. The Mailbox looks like a place I’d thoroughly enjoy, Jo. I love this week’s walking tour. So many special pops of color! I very much enjoyed the bits of Birmingham history, as well. What a nice way to spend a Monday. 🙂

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    1. It was very much ‘out of the blue’ Debbie. When Gilly suggested it I wasn’t sure but I was totally wrong. Glad you could enjoy it with us. The Mailbox was a ‘wow’ moment 🙂 🙂

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  2. I am glad you found a great sights beyond all the cranes and construction I have never thought about visiting Birmingham but that just changed. I really need to tour the UK.

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  3. I’m now beginning to think I missed a trick! As you say, cities aren’t for everyone and I guess a lot of my memories of Brum are wrapped around driving in and around the place! I have been in to the centre, but years ago and it has been a constant building site for a lot of those years. We live and learn. I guess I am more of a market town person, somewhere that you can walk around the centre within a few hours. You have done the city proud though Jo, I love all the photos and the info. I’m even tempted to pop up there myself one day… (and I will reply to the e tomorrow!)

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    1. Our outlooks are very different, Jude, and I was very much ‘girl on a mission’. 🙂 There’s nothing I love more than uncharted territory. I didn’t have great expectations for Brum but I refused to believe that England’s second city didn’t hold a few pearls, and I found them. 🙂 🙂 I just had an enormous sense of freedom and excitement (once I got out of that council house 🙂 🙂 ) and I suspect/hope that’s reflected in the post. It’s what I do and who I am. Lots of people struggle to understand it.
      No haste with the e hon. I’m still going to Edinburgh/Durham whatever happens. 🙂

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  4. Hi Jo,
    I live in Birmingham (have done for 15 years). Such a great post. You’ve captured some of the best things Birmingham has to offer. Come back for a longer visit! #MondayEscapes

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    1. There was so much to see, Becky! I hope eyes weren’t glazing over by the end. Once I get going I sometimes struggle to stop. 🙂 🙂 But eventually even I run out of steam. Hugs, hon! Have a good week 🙂

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  5. Loved your post, Jo. Your amazing photos made me realise how little of Birmingham I noticed when I was a student there, all those moons ago. Everything looks cleaner and more fascinating than I remember it. Of course, I didn’t own a camera then, and blogging wasn’t even dreamt of in those days. Love the pink tram and your shots of the bull. I can just imagine you and Gilly trundling around together like two excited teenagers. Yes, I remember rag rugs too. My mom made a couple for our sitting room. 🙂

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    1. Thanks, sweetheart! As I keep saying, Ad, the city seems to keep on reinventing itself, and a few people have said that it was much less inspiring 20 years ago. I love the combination of old with super modern. Anyway, we’ve established you had better things to look at 🙂 🙂 Good weekend?

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  6. Thanks babe for going along with the whole Brum idea, I’m not a fan of most big cities either, KL, Barca and Kumasi are exceptions. But with your wonderful company this was the best. This is super writing and must have taken you hours, you’ve entertained so many people with our adventure. What are your feelings about reblogs? most of our friends are mutual so if you’d rather I didn’t it’s okay.
    I really hope we get to meet again, maybe in the spring? You took way more good photos than I did, wish I’d had the big camera with me, where was the last poppy pic taken, I missed it? But as you said there were photos to take in every direction. How do you remember all the information, it goes in one ear and out the other with me.Burne-Jones for instance, I would have taken more notice if I’d known that! Better go and see some of my visitors, happy week darling, it was back to the grindstone with a bang for me this morning x 🙂 x

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    1. I’m flattered that you want to reblog, Gilly. 🙂 I don’t do it much on mine because I think it’s confusing. I just tweet and occasionally share on Facebook. As you say, most of ‘our gang’ will see them anyway.. 🙂 Thanks for the thought, and for suggesting the whole enterprise. I enjoyed it immensely. I still consider myself more of a writer than photographer, Gilly (well, you saw the Canon- it’s laughable 🙂 ) and I really enjoy putting the post together. I get cross on Sundays with the number of interruptions, sometimes. I just want to disappear into my post but washing/ironing/Sunday lunch call me back 😦 If it’s sunny I want to be outdoors and then I come unstuck! This one was finished between 5 and 7 this morning, then I went in the garden for breakfast. It was beautiful. 🙂 I did have the Rough Guide by my side to help with the facts you know. And there’s always friend Wiki. 🙂
      I’m encouraging Meg to go south if she comes to the UK this Autumn. You just never know 🙂 🙂 Hugs, darlin’.

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    1. Thanks a lot, Tom. 🙂 When we did the walking tour there was a security guard giving us the most ferocious looks for getting too close to his precious bank. I made sure I got a good look 🙂

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  7. Not so much a gallery as a cavalcade of stunning shots. You’ve truly done our nearest city proud, and reminded me that G and I should get ourselves over there. As you say 24 hrs is not enough. And just to add to the excitement, meeting Gilly too. Marvellous.

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  8. Once again – in bad reception (on an island) – so you might get this reply twice;. 24 hours never enough but sounds like you had a great day despite the weather! So fun you got to meet Gilly! Thanks so much for linking up my Untermyer Gardens post! x

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