Z is for Zgorzelec and Zakopane

I expect some of you have heard of Zakopane, in the Tatry Mountains in Poland?  Zgorzelec, maybe not, but it is a town of great significance for me.  It’s the home of my Uncle Włodek, whom I was lucky enough to visit this Summer.

River Neisse links the twin towns of Zgorzelec and Gorlitz

Until 1945 Zgorzelec and Görlitz were one town, with a shared history.  Görlitz (or Gorlice, as it was then known) was founded in 1354 by German settlers.  In the 13th century it became rich due to its location on the Via Regia.  This former trade route is one of the oldest in Europe, and reached from Kiev to Santiago de Compostela.  The town became a cultural centre, led by mystic and theologian Jakob Böhme, who inspired progressive thinkers like Goethe.

I don’t pretend to understand the complications involved, but the town has since been part of Bohemia, Saxony and Silesia.  At the end of World War 2, which scattered families like my Dad’s far and wide, the Rivers Neisse and Oder were established as the border between Poland and East Germany, and the town was split apart.   The German part retained the name Görlitz, and the Polish part became Zgorzelec.

Riverside cafe in Zgorzelec

Riverside cafe in Zgorzelec

Peterskirche across the river in Gorlitz

I have to admit to a degree of fascination with this divided town, and I had never before set foot in Germany, so I was delighted when a visit to uncle’s home presented me with the opportunity.  I didn’t really know what to expect as I approached the Old Town Bridge.  Certainly not the 5-tier grain elevator, emblazoned with the effigy of a face and palm.  It was designed to represent an Artistic Image of a United Europe.

The grain elevator with its symbol of unity

The elevator and St. Peter and Pauls

The bridge itself was blown up by the retreating Germans in 1945, but has been replaced with a modern steel structure, reuniting the towns.  Peterskirche, or the church of St. Peter and Paul, is a mighty building, dating from 1230.  It is famous for its sun organ, depicting 18 suns among its pipes.

Old Town bridge and Zgorzelec, seen from St. Peter’s

The atmosphere changes completely as you step off the bridge into the cobbled streets of Görlitz, and are at once in “Bavaria” as I had always imagined it.  I pause to pick up a street map and my ears struggle with the unfamiliar sound of the German language.  A street festival is in full swing, complete with oompah music.  You can get a flavour of it from Collectibles, which I wrote for Jakesprinter’s Sunday Post.

Don’t you love the pastel colours?

And the eyes in the roof!

Such pretty architecture

In such wonderful shades

A sunny shopper’s paradise

But what a strange place to have a bath!

In any event, Görlitz was a delightful place to spend a few hours, and there was more to see, but the main purpose of my visit was to see my uncle.  Włodek’s wife Janina died just a few months ago, and it was the first time he had “entertained” on his own.  He could not do enough for us, and was proud to show off his domestic skills.  These included his homemade sour cherry jam, putting me to shame.

Dad (left) and Uncle

The famous jam, niece Basia, Dad, me, cousin Wojtek and his wife Agnieszka

After all that, Zakopane may seem like an anticlimax, but it definitely wasn’t.  I was there in September 2009 for the occasion of my cousin Adam’s Silver Wedding celebration.  Sadly I don’t have many photos to share.  You’ve guessed it!  I was too busy eating, drinking and dancing my legs off.

Zakopane at night, from Wikipedia Commons

Zakopane is known primarily as a ski resort but is extensively used as a hiking centre in the Summer too.  Just 20 kms south of Krakow, it sits in an area of national park and outstanding natural beauty.

I was there before the snows had arrived, but was happy to take the funicular railway zooming 1388 metres up Mt. Gubalowka for the panoramic views.  The top of the mountain is one enormous playground.  There are a variety of stalls selling woolly mittens, socks and hats, all in a riot of colours.  Smokey mountain grilled cheese can be washed down with grzane wino, heady local mulled wine.  Sideshows attract the young at heart, who can also whizz down the slope on a metal toboggan ride.  Adventurous types teeter in the trees on an aerial wire.  And all to a background of spectacular beauty.

If you’re interested my guide on http://www.simonseeks.com/travel-guides/zakopane-fun-snow__118121 will give you a more complete picture.  I’ll focus here on family.

Adam, wife Marta and a neighbour at the Silver Wedding celebration

The church in Poronin where their wedding vows were reconsecrated

Dangling among the trees (no, not me!)

Michael, me, Adam, and Lynne and George, who came all the way from Canada

So that’s me at the tail end of my personal alphabet of Poland.  Of course, I have a few gaps to fill in, but Julie Dawn Fox, whose idea this A-Z challenge is, doesn’t seem to mind.  And my lovely friend, Frizz, knows much more about Germany than I ever will.  The ZZZ Challenge is up this week so check that out too!  Click on the links or the banner below for more information.

76 comments

    1. Hi Rich! We flew in to Wroclaw (where my cousin lives) and I guess it’s an hour and a halfish drive west to the border on pretty quiet roads. Not sure about public transport links or if there’s an airport nearer on the German side? Cheers!

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  6. Pingback: Z is for Zgorzelec and Zakopane | My Personal A to Z Challenge

    1. Oops- false pretences, I’m afraid. I started doing this in strictly alphabetical but then other people deviated, and I took a few swerves through Krakow and Warsaw. I did the Z because I needed to get Zgorzelec out of my system before going to Portugal end of the month. Sorry if I gave the wrong impression. Thanks for your kind comment anyway.

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  12. Great post Jo. Reminds me of the wonderful, five years that Margaret and I spent in Germany. Our son and daughter were both born there and it is our intention to take them back in the near future. we would like to show them their first home and the places we visited with them. ( including the Gasthauses ). The Germans really know how to eat, drink and be merry, you really must return. :o)

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      1. We were on the northwest border with Holland and Belgium, the nearest large town being Moenchengladbach. I would thoroughly recommend a tour between Koln and Koblenz following the river Rhine. Better still, take a boat trip down the river. There are some delightful villages to explore and some stunning scenery along the way.

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  13. I have to admit that I had never heard of these places, but now that I have read about them and seen your fabulous photos I will be including them on my never ending, always growing, list of places to go 🙂

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    1. I doubt you’ll make it to Zgorzelec, Sam, but I’m sure there are many similar places in Bavaria. If you ever get to Krakow it’s well worth heading south to the Tatry mountains, though. It’s a naturally beautiful area. (though you have plenty of those too!)
      Thanks for taking time to read and comment. I appreciate it.

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  14. What a charming town. A mixture of styles. Look at those eyes.I have never seen a grain elevator before. Unusual structure and right in town. Must have been or still is an agricultural community. Looks like you had a most enjoyable time with family…creating new memories.

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    1. I had to Google it to find out exactly what the grain elevator and mill were, Lynne, as I didn’t quite get the family’s explanation. The contrast between Poland and Germany was notable. Hard to believe that it was the same town.

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  15. Jo, this is a wonderful post! I would love to go to Poland and haven’t read much on it before. It has been poorly represented in the blogging world so thanks! It reminds me a bit of Prague with the pastel colored buildings. How cool to have family there too! Do you know any Polish?

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    1. Hi Nicole. When Dad found his family in Poland again, 5 years or so ago, I started to learn Polish, but I haven’t been a very diligent scholar. I can read and write a little and make the usual simple requests but conversation leaves me standing. I need to spend a few weeks there to practise.
      So far I’ve been to Krakow, Warsaw and Wroclaw as well as Dad’s childhood area, where the farm still is, and have seen many beautiful sights (including my aunts and uncles).

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  17. What a beautiful town rich in history. I love the pale building colors and enjyed seeing the eyes on the roof. I especially love the view fromthe bridge over the river. Thank you for sharing your visit with your family.

    BE ENCOURAGED! BE BLESSED!

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  18. Zakopane is not just one of my favorite places in Poland, but one of my favorite places! I’ve been in both summer and winter, and I’d be hard pressed to decide which time of year I like better there.

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    1. Fabulous! The scenery is stunning, isn’t it? The town was a bit commercial for me (didn’t really expect to find “statues” working the main street!) but it was great fun. The village Poronin, where the Silver Wedding was held, has a very special church, and we had a folk group in traditional gorale costume. It was a beautiful day!

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  20. Pingback: Z is for Zgorzelec and Zakopane | Home Far Away From Home

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