I expect some of you have heard of Zakopane, in the Tatry Mountains in Poland? Zgorzelec, maybe not, but it is a town of great significance for me. It’s the home of my Uncle Włodek, whom I was lucky enough to visit this Summer.
River Neisse links the twin towns of Zgorzelec and Gorlitz
Until 1945 Zgorzelec and Görlitz were one town, with a shared history. Görlitz (or Gorlice, as it was then known) was founded in 1354 by German settlers. In the 13th century it became rich due to its location on the Via Regia. This former trade route is one of the oldest in Europe, and reached from Kiev to Santiago de Compostela. The town became a cultural centre, led by mystic and theologian Jakob Böhme, who inspired progressive thinkers like Goethe.
I don’t pretend to understand the complications involved, but the town has since been part of Bohemia, Saxony and Silesia. At the end of World War 2, which scattered families like my Dad’s far and wide, the Rivers Neisse and Oder were established as the border between Poland and East Germany, and the town was split apart. The German part retained the name Görlitz, and the Polish part became Zgorzelec.
Riverside cafe in Zgorzelec
Peterskirche across the river in Gorlitz
I have to admit to a degree of fascination with this divided town, and I had never before set foot in Germany, so I was delighted when a visit to uncle’s home presented me with the opportunity. I didn’t really know what to expect as I approached the Old Town Bridge. Certainly not the 5-tier grain elevator, emblazoned with the effigy of a face and palm. It was designed to represent an Artistic Image of a United Europe.
The grain elevator with its symbol of unity
The elevator and St. Peter and Pauls
The bridge itself was blown up by the retreating Germans in 1945, but has been replaced with a modern steel structure, reuniting the towns. Peterskirche, or the church of St. Peter and Paul, is a mighty building, dating from 1230. It is famous for its sun organ, depicting 18 suns among its pipes.
Old Town bridge and Zgorzelec, seen from St. Peter’s
The atmosphere changes completely as you step off the bridge into the cobbled streets of Görlitz, and are at once in “Bavaria” as I had always imagined it. I pause to pick up a street map and my ears struggle with the unfamiliar sound of the German language. A street festival is in full swing, complete with oompah music. You can get a flavour of it from Collectibles, which I wrote for Jakesprinter’s Sunday Post.
Don’t you love the pastel colours?
And the eyes in the roof!
Such pretty architecture
In such wonderful shades
A sunny shopper’s paradise
But what a strange place to have a bath!
In any event, Görlitz was a delightful place to spend a few hours, and there was more to see, but the main purpose of my visit was to see my uncle. Włodek’s wife Janina died just a few months ago, and it was the first time he had “entertained” on his own. He could not do enough for us, and was proud to show off his domestic skills. These included his homemade sour cherry jam, putting me to shame.
Dad (left) and Uncle
The famous jam, niece Basia, Dad, me, cousin Wojtek and his wife Agnieszka
After all that, Zakopane may seem like an anticlimax, but it definitely wasn’t. I was there in September 2009 for the occasion of my cousin Adam’s Silver Wedding celebration. Sadly I don’t have many photos to share. You’ve guessed it! I was too busy eating, drinking and dancing my legs off.
Zakopane at night, from Wikipedia Commons
Zakopane is known primarily as a ski resort but is extensively used as a hiking centre in the Summer too. Just 20 kms south of Krakow, it sits in an area of national park and outstanding natural beauty.
I was there before the snows had arrived, but was happy to take the funicular railway zooming 1388 metres up Mt. Gubalowka for the panoramic views. The top of the mountain is one enormous playground. There are a variety of stalls selling woolly mittens, socks and hats, all in a riot of colours. Smokey mountain grilled cheese can be washed down with grzane wino, heady local mulled wine. Sideshows attract the young at heart, who can also whizz down the slope on a metal toboggan ride. Adventurous types teeter in the trees on an aerial wire. And all to a background of spectacular beauty.
If you’re interested my guide on http://www.simonseeks.com/travel-guides/zakopane-fun-snow__118121 will give you a more complete picture. I’ll focus here on family.
Adam, wife Marta and a neighbour at the Silver Wedding celebration
The church in Poronin where their wedding vows were reconsecrated
Dangling among the trees (no, not me!)
Michael, me, Adam, and Lynne and George, who came all the way from Canada
So that’s me at the tail end of my personal alphabet of Poland. Of course, I have a few gaps to fill in, but Julie Dawn Fox, whose idea this A-Z challenge is, doesn’t seem to mind. And my lovely friend, Frizz, knows much more about Germany than I ever will. The ZZZ Challenge is up this week so check that out too! Click on the links or the banner below for more information.
Your Polish family are lovely Johanna! You’re really lucky, I have gazillions of family in Nigeria, but it’s impossible to visit, I doubt I’ll ever go back.
I didn’t realise that, Gilly. I suppose the novelty has worn off with mine and I get a bit overwhelmed with it all. It’s a responsibility I hadn’t planned for, but you’re right. I’m very lucky 🙂
Amazing work Jo ! Happy New Year!
I do enjoy compiling these A-Z’s 🙂 Peace, health, happiness- all that you need for a perfect 2014!
Agreed and more A-Z photos as I think (hope) he is doing it again !
hey Jo,
you’ve been in Germany, Görlitz!
I like your travel diaries,
hoping to hear more about
Poland & Portugal etc. 2014!
It’s true! We were there for about 2 hours 🙂
Returning to the Algarve on 2nd January, Frizz, so no doubt there’ll be more.
This looks very “Bavarian” Jo. And it’s interesting that you could smell the cheese being smoked. We’ll definitely return to Poland, and your posts will provide lots of ideas. ~Jmaes
I’m happy to hear that, James. 🙂 My next trip is for a wedding in May.
Thanks Suze. Another hidden gem!
What a gorgeous little town – well two towns, the German and the Polish. Super photos Jo and an fascinating read too.
What a great way to finish your a-to-z of Poland! Congratulations – I’d love to visit and see these beautiful places 🙂
Next European trip, Meg? Thanks a lot.
Great Family happy moments there my friend 🙂
I am blessed Jake, and often don’t appreciate it enough. Thanks a lot for your support.
Gorgeous!Thanks for sharing!
Many thanks for your visit. Another lovely blog to follow.
You are so kind – thanks a lot!
I love YOUR blog!
picture postcard perfect and what a lovely way to meet up
It was much prettier than I imagined and a real treat. Best of all were the hugs from my uncle.
Hello Johanna 🙂 I really like this post of Zakopane. It feels nice to visit one’s roots. The first photo in the series has a special feel to it with the greyish clouds providing a natural arch above the church – just lovely, and the photo of bathing statues is quite original and entertaining. I am glad you had a great time. See you soon, I hope. Paula
Many thanks Paula. Put your feet up and have a lazy weekend.
😀 Are you psychic? They are already up in my lazy girl chair 🙂 Will you be posting for this week’s photo challenge? I am looking forward to it…..
If I can find something for the subject, whatever it might be. I’m doing Six word Saturday first- photos lined up ready.
Here’s to a glass of red later. Or you may be a white wine girl.
Fantastic photos. I just loved cruising through these beautiful places with you. Thank you! 🙂
You are so welcome Dianne. I love going there. Many thanks!
Goorlitz/zgorzelec looks lovely. My geography of Poland is rubbish. Which is the nearest big city/airport?
Hi Rich! We flew in to Wroclaw (where my cousin lives) and I guess it’s an hour and a halfish drive west to the border on pretty quiet roads. Not sure about public transport links or if there’s an airport nearer on the German side? Cheers!
What a stunning place, Jo, and well done to your uncle with his home-made cherry jam. 🙂
How lovely to get together with family you haven’t seen for a while. Happy times.
My Polish family are really lovely, Ad. We’re always made so welcome.
Such lovely photos 🙂 and those stunning buildings, they just shout out ‘take a photo of me’
And so I oblige. Thanks Vicky.
Beautiful place, gorgeous pictures! Thank you for touring the place, Jo!
When it comes to tours, I’m your man, Amy! Many thanks.
Congratulations Jo! And thank you for the wonderful virtual tour of Poland 🙂
More to come, Madhu. I cheated and did Z because I couldn’t resist posting the photos of Zgorzelec before I go to Porto end of this month and forget all about Poland.
Love the eyes in the roof!!!
Great, aren’t they!
I felt like I was there myself as I marvel with each exciting , beautiful images. What an adventure! Take care my friend.
Thank you sir, and for your RT too.
WOW! What a beautiful place dear Johanna, fascinated me. Photographs are so beautiful. Thank you, Blessing and Happiness, love, nia
Thanks Nia. You’re always welcome.
Congratulations on finishing your A – Z – and for such a wonderful reunion to finish. 🙂
Oops- false pretences, I’m afraid. I started doing this in strictly alphabetical but then other people deviated, and I took a few swerves through Krakow and Warsaw. I did the Z because I needed to get Zgorzelec out of my system before going to Portugal end of the month. Sorry if I gave the wrong impression. Thanks for your kind comment anyway.
That’s life, eh – messy and a bit haphazzard 🙂
Great post Jo. Reminds me of the wonderful, five years that Margaret and I spent in Germany. Our son and daughter were both born there and it is our intention to take them back in the near future. we would like to show them their first home and the places we visited with them. ( including the Gasthauses ). The Germans really know how to eat, drink and be merry, you really must return. :o)
Thanks David. Whereabouts were you in Germany? Have to admit, I’ve looked at Munich and Berlin both, and wondered…
We were on the northwest border with Holland and Belgium, the nearest large town being Moenchengladbach. I would thoroughly recommend a tour between Koln and Koblenz following the river Rhine. Better still, take a boat trip down the river. There are some delightful villages to explore and some stunning scenery along the way.
I have to admit that I had never heard of these places, but now that I have read about them and seen your fabulous photos I will be including them on my never ending, always growing, list of places to go 🙂
I doubt you’ll make it to Zgorzelec, Sam, but I’m sure there are many similar places in Bavaria. If you ever get to Krakow it’s well worth heading south to the Tatry mountains, though. It’s a naturally beautiful area. (though you have plenty of those too!)
Thanks for taking time to read and comment. I appreciate it.
What a charming town. A mixture of styles. Look at those eyes.I have never seen a grain elevator before. Unusual structure and right in town. Must have been or still is an agricultural community. Looks like you had a most enjoyable time with family…creating new memories.
I had to Google it to find out exactly what the grain elevator and mill were, Lynne, as I didn’t quite get the family’s explanation. The contrast between Poland and Germany was notable. Hard to believe that it was the same town.
Jo, this is a wonderful post! I would love to go to Poland and haven’t read much on it before. It has been poorly represented in the blogging world so thanks! It reminds me a bit of Prague with the pastel colored buildings. How cool to have family there too! Do you know any Polish?
Hi Nicole. When Dad found his family in Poland again, 5 years or so ago, I started to learn Polish, but I haven’t been a very diligent scholar. I can read and write a little and make the usual simple requests but conversation leaves me standing. I need to spend a few weeks there to practise.
So far I’ve been to Krakow, Warsaw and Wroclaw as well as Dad’s childhood area, where the farm still is, and have seen many beautiful sights (including my aunts and uncles).
Wow, I would really love to visit! Looking forward to more of your posts. I like learning about Poland! 🙂
Jo, these photos are amazing! Good job. Great post.
Many thanks Gemma. It was a beautiful spot.
What a beautiful town rich in history. I love the pale building colors and enjyed seeing the eyes on the roof. I especially love the view fromthe bridge over the river. Thank you for sharing your visit with your family.
BE ENCOURAGED! BE BLESSED!
The town far exceeded my expectations, Francine, and I’d love to go back and explore the area.
You’re very welcome.
Zakopane is not just one of my favorite places in Poland, but one of my favorite places! I’ve been in both summer and winter, and I’d be hard pressed to decide which time of year I like better there.
Fabulous! The scenery is stunning, isn’t it? The town was a bit commercial for me (didn’t really expect to find “statues” working the main street!) but it was great fun. The village Poronin, where the Silver Wedding was held, has a very special church, and we had a folk group in traditional gorale costume. It was a beautiful day!
Beautiful!
Thanks Len.