walking

Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey seemed to me to be quite at home shrouded in mist. I’d chosen the riverside walk from Richmond, in Yorkshire, for its Autumn colour and had almost forgotten the sad story of the Drummer Boy. Legend has it that, towards the end of the 18th century, a tunnel was discovered beneath the keep of Richmond Castle. The entrance to the tunnel was very narrow, so a small regimental drummer boy was chosen, to squeeze through and investigate.

He was lowered into the tunnel and instructed to beat his drum loudly as he walked. The soldiers above could follow his progress from the drumbeat. He led them away from the castle and down to the River Swale, in the direction of Easby Abbey. Half a mile from the Abbey, the drumbeat ceased. The little drummer was never seen or heard from again!

The Drummer Boy stone

I think I can probably guarantee to guide us on this walk without disappearing. Are you game?

From Richmond Market Place, turn north on Frenchgate, and then right, along Station Rd. Just as you reach the bridge, with The Station on the far shore, you will find a turn off, pointing to Easby Abbey. The path climbs up from the riverside and will lead you to a junction, where the Drummer Boy stone is placed.

A popular landmark on Frenchgate

An Autumnal dew bathes the roses

Looking back towards the castle and St. Mary’s Church

Leaves strew the footpath

The river chortles along below, tantalising with glimpses through the trees. Soon you come to a field and across this you have St. Agatha’s House (a private residence) on your left and to your right, Easby Abbey. The Abbey of St. Agatha, as it is more correctly known, dates from 1152 but has stood abandoned since the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the late 1530s. The former inhabitants were canons rather than monks, members of the Premonstratensian (or Norbertine) order. The White Canons, known for the colour of their habit, were Roman Catholics.

It's a lonely spot but St. Agatha's Church is gentle company

It’s a lonely spot, but St. Agatha’s Church is good company

The Abbey from the church grounds

The site is maintained by English Heritage and is free of charge. I was a little surprised to find the church open and even more surprised at what I found inside.

Beneath the beamed ceiling, light flooded the walls

With traditional stained glass windows

But the painted arches were unexpected

And the coloured frescoes took me completely by surprise

Lit by the windows

With beautiful alcoves

And intimate detail

The church is known to pre-date the Abbey and the Medieval wall paintings date from 1250. It felt well-loved. In the grounds a small army of men were beavering away, removing overgrown trees. Retracing my steps through the church gate, I turned my attention to the Abbey.

The gatehouse, just across the lane from the church

The sturdy lines of the Abbey

Cloister detail

The window of the Refectory

Time to resume our walk. Turn right at the Abbey gate and follow the lane down. A gravel path beside the River Swale heads east and after about 300 yards comes to an old iron bridge. Cross over and take the former railway track, signed ‘Richmond, half a mile’.

Hips or haws?

The River Swale chatters along below

Once back at The Station, you can easily retrace your steps, but it seems a shame to me to leave the river when it’s about to reveal its might. How about we pop into The Station for a snack and a look at some art work before we continue?

The ham hock soup was delicious

And I always like a browse at the art

There’s always something that appeals

I’ve written about The Station before. In fact, I was there on my birthday, 2 years ago. Seems I have a weakness for this part of the world in the Autumn. Since I was last there a bakery has opened and the accompanying smells were delicious! Come on- just ten minutes more. I promise you, it’s worthwhile.

Cross over the bridge and turn left through a gate. The path follows the river quite closely or you can get nearer by walking on the grass. The tree roots are exposed in places so watch your step if you leave the path.

Here’s the bridge

See what I mean about the roots?

Don’t get too close to the river!

Autumn’s carpet is beautiful, isn’t it?

Just about ready to fall

Can you hear a rumbling sound? You might have caught sight of them through the trees. The river is very low this year after a dry Summer.

My first sighting always makes me smile!

Just a little closer

The power of the water is awesome

As always, I find myself entranced

I hope you will agree it was worth another 10 minutes walking? The hard part lies ahead because the road winds quite steeply back up to the Market Place, passing by the Castle. The circular walk from the Market Place to Easby Abbey and back is just 3 miles. Free parking is available at The Station, if you get there early enough. (and it saves you a climb)

Legend also links the Drummer Boy to Lewis Carroll, who grew up in Richmond. Allegedly ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ began life as ‘Alice’s Adventures Underground’. I rather like the idea that he took inspiration from this story.

And now it’s time to put the kettle on and join my fellow walkers this week. Click on the logo if you’d like to join in. You’d be more than welcome and there are always beautiful walks to share. Many thanks to everybody for their kind contributions. Here we go!

Drake always has the power to fire my imagination :

Emptiness with content

Of all the world’s beautiful cathedrals, I didn’t know this one, so thank you, Cardinal :

Berlin Cathedral

And for probably the best deer shot you’ve seen this year! Amy- you’re a treasure! :

O.P. Schnabel Park

We’re honoured this week to share a post from Lucy, in a very special place on the Northumbrian coast :

Marooned on Lindisfarne Island

If it’s scenery you’re after, it’s hard to beat County Tipperary. Many thanks to Joan for sharing :

Up in the hills

For the longest time I’ve been following Bespoke Traveller. Read this post and you’ll see why :

The long way down in Grand Canyon

If waterfalls and sky walks are your thing, follow Pauline to New South Wales :

A journey into the dawn of time

If you prefer shopping, Meg has her shopping baskets at the ready :

A Williamsburg walk

That’s it for another week. I hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Leeds Waterfront

The Trans Pennine Trail at Leeds

When National Express changed my itinerary, giving me a 3 hour stopover in Leeds on my way home from Nottingham, they did me a big favour. They gave me just enough time to explore Leeds Waterfront. I’d done a tiny bit of research so I knew there was plenty to see. I hope you like looking at canal boats and reflections? There are rather a lot of them here.

I grabbed a sandwich as I whistled through the bus station, turned right at the doors, crossed over the road, and there I was, practically on the canal bank. The weather forecast had predicted rain and the coach had passed through some heavy showers, but my luck was in. Starved, because I hadn’t eaten breakfast, I found myself a seat by Clarence Dock and plonked myself down for 10 minutes, to munch and look at these beauties.

I’m never alone with a canal boat or two

My picnic view

Looking across to the Royal Armouries

I always like a ‘pop’ of colour

A sign or two

And a few reflections

I don’t know whether you’re familiar with the Royal Armouries museum? It’s the kind of place where you can lose a day quite easily. Have a browse at the website. You might want to make time to come back. No spare time for me that day. I had much exploring to do.

A raft of offices, restaurants and apartments surround the dock. I had tried to memorise a route along the towpath but I did what I always do, which is to follow my nose. This usually results in a few false starts and some day I will have to invest in technology so I can summon up the genie in the iPhone. If you look at the Leeds Waterfront map it shows you quite clearly which paths are ‘navigable’. Meantime I blunder on!

Time to leave Clarence Dock

And another ‘pop’ of colour

And head past the lock to Knight’s Way Bridge

Isn’t that a lovely name for a bridge?

Pausing to watch the dredger negotiate the lock

And looking upstream to Crown Point Bridge

Looking back at the Royal Armouries museum

Looking back towards Royal Armouries and the lock

I stayed on the left bank of the River Aire, stopping for a look at Crown Point Bridge. Opened in 1842, this was a toll bridge until 1868. The towpath takes you past Brewery Wharf to Centenary Bridge, built in 1992 to celebrate 100 years of Leeds acquiring city status. The views across to The Calls make this one of the most attractive stretches of the waterfront.

Bridge detail

Crown Point Bridge x 2

Approaching Centenary Bridge

Sculpture detail in Brewery Wharf

The Calls with St. Peter’s Church in the background

Centenary Bridge

At this point the towpath ceases for a short distance and you have to thread your way through Bridge End Apartments, where I found a delightful surprise. The wooden bridge was under repair but, lying in the water beneath, bright jewels clustered on the lily pads.

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More by luck than skill, I found myself at Leeds Bridge. Dating back to the 14th century, this bridge, originally made from stone, was for 500 years the main crossing point on the river. The medieval bridge was demolished in 1871, when it could no longer cope with the volume of traffic, and the existing cast iron bridge was constructed by 1873. A distinctive looking bridge, it was the setting for the world’s first moving pictures. In 1888, Louis Le Prince filmed horse-drawn traffic on the bridge, showing it in his nearby workplace, which became the world’s first cinema.

Intricate ironwork

Leeds Bridge

The crest. Did somebody mention owls?

Crossing over Leeds Bridge, the path then hugs the backs of stylish hotels around to Victoria Bridge. The site of a ferry crossing and then a wooden footbridge washed away by floods, the Victoria Bridge was carved from local stone and completed in 1839, soon after the coronation of Queen Victoria. Just beyond this point the River Aire meets the Leeds and Liverpool canal at Granary Wharf, loftily overlooked by the railway.

Victoria Bridge

New footbridge into Granary Wharf

Sam’s boat!

Dazzling reflections on life

The boat cafe

The canal continues out of the city and into the countryside, but I had run out of time to follow it any further. There are 127 miles of the Leeds and Liverpool canal- enough walking even for me! I would have liked to explore Holbeck Urban Village with its iconic Italianate towers, but it was time to turn back. I looped round into Water Lane and headed back up Neville Street, curious to see the light installation under the railway bridge.

Passing south of Trinity Church and the impressive looking shopping plaza, I chanced upon the Corn Exchange. Anyone remember Donovan? Apparently he strummed along here before he was famous. A striking mural caught my eye, then I was back at Kirkgate and the Leeds City Market. It’s a regular stop off for me if I’m passing through the city. Both the food stalls and the architecture are unbeatable. A friendly local informed me that I should come along on Halloween, when they open the top gallery for a ‘Spooky walk’. Sounds like fun?

The canal path, leading out of town

The canal network, West Leeds

Sound and Light in Neville Street

The main entrance to the markets

Did you ever see a better mural?

I hope I haven’t worn you out too much this week, but it’s been interesting, hasn’t it? To join in my Monday walks click on the logo below and it will give you the details. I’ve got the kettle on for what comes next- a visit to some wonderful friends. Please do join me.

Cardinal has a very individual style. Let’s accompany him to Jerusalem :

Jerusalem 9930

Violet Sky joins us again this week for a walk in the park :

A walk in the park

Amy’s photography is an absolute joy :

Where have all the flowers gone?

I really must visit Liverpool soon. Drake’s colours sing! :

Seeking out the colours

Meet Shan and her lovely family and go apple picking :

Coffee and Conversation

And a huge welcome to Tish Farrell! Her evocative writing style and photos makes me want to head for Wales right now :

Now that Summer’s done, we take the Dol Idris path

Come and get a bit damp on the prom with me and Jude! :

Reculver Towers and Roman Fort

And speaking of proms, how does New Zealand grab you? Jill is very persuasive :

Wellington on a good day

And just ‘up the road’, Rosemay takes us for a jaunt on the Perth coast :

A walk with Winston

Staying ‘down under’, Pauline invites us for a beach walk. It reminds me of Christine. Where does the time go?

Beach walk

And lastly. our lovely Yvette is taking us to a ‘beautiful river’ :

Beautiful waterfront- Buffalo NY

Many thanks to you all for your company and warm support. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : gliding high!

Hello-o-o, up there!

You’re probably thinking that lack of sunshine has gone to my head! No, I’m not planning a sky walk this week. What I would like to do is to take you up Sutton Bank, on the Yorkshire Moors, to the glider school. I actually took this walk a couple of weeks ago when I was out searching for purple heather on the moors. A road diversion had us approaching from the wrong direction, and by a very roundabout route, so that I was in despair of finding any blooming heather. What I did find, though, was gliders! I guess it’s an ok substitute.

The heather has already bloomed and waned, but the gliders still fly high. You won’t need to do any climbing to see them. I hope you’re game to come with me?

Oh, really?

We parked at the Visitor Centre on Sutton Bank, properly known as Roulston Scar. When I spotted a sign- ‘The finest view in England’- my expectations were pretty high. At the viewing platform binoculars were clasped in several hands, but the day was heavily overcast. I admit, I was a little disappointed. Still, you couldn’t fault the other half’s enterprise in bringing me here. Perhaps the clouds would lift?

Promising, but not spectacular?

Not destined to be my favourite view

But there was a choice on the signposts

And so, the White Horse it was to be. Sound more promising to you? The trouble is, The White Horse is better seen from afar. Never mind. I’ll do my best! In the meantime, I was approaching the glider station. Surely there wouldn’t be much to see from up there on a day like today?

The sign looks full of promise

And there was a glider at the ready

Control tower also ready?

The sky was even beginning to clear a little

Revealing the beauty of the countryside

The path is level and it’s just as well because you’re constantly stopping and gazing skyward. There’s a low drone as the plane tows the glider past you and in seconds they’re airborne. Soaring out over the cliffs, it’s a heart stopping moment as the plane leads the glider ever higher and then releases into a thermal or rising air current.

The plane whizzes past, towing the glider

Clinging on, in search of a thermal

Then freedom! And a patch of blue sky!

Back at ground level, the path continues on. The White Horse of Kilburn is not far away. I’m not sure what kind of view of it I will have, as it lies on the cliff face below me.

The sign shows an aerial view

As half expected, it’s easier to get a wild flower shot

Steps lead down the cliff to a car park far below. I look back at my husband, who shrugs and turns to walk away. I start down the steps in search of a better view.

This is the best I can do!

Or this bench, thanks to Fred Banks

And a lovely patch of heather

Unless you want a long descent down the steps, and then an aching clamber back up, this will have to do for now. You could, of course, be enterprising and drive to the car park below. I’m sorry to tell you that we didn’t. The clouds closed in again- that’s the nature of the moors- and it was time for a hasty retreat from a squall of rain.

But at least I’d had a glimpse of ‘England’s finest view’

And a little moorland heather

I hope you enjoyed our walk? This link to Wikipedia will give you a few more details of the whereabouts and geology of the horse, and the village of Sutton-under-Whitestonecliffe, where I remember a rather nice pub.

I won’t be home till teatime today, but I’m hoping you will still have received this walk, which I scheduled. Early or late, I’ll definitely be there. Once again, I have some wonderful shares for you. Many thanks to all of you who take part.

My first walk this week is very fittingly titled but, more importantly, it’s full of wonderful photos. Thank you so much, Meg. This is beautiful!

Skyspace

The Cardinal took us to Petra in Jordan, for the sunniest of smiles :

Street Portrait

Paula knows us Scorpios don’t mind water, or even occasionally…

Getting Wet

If you haven’t seen any of Amy’s photography lately, you’re missing a treat. Goodbye Summer! :

It’s last Beauty

Drake was back on Samsoe this week, with some Norwegian love :

Vikings, potatoes and Norwegian love

Hands up those of you who’ve been to Odessa? No- I thought not! Jouena has a lovely share :

Mosaic in Odessa

You can share a walk with me any day of the week. The details are all in my logo. Have a great week and happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Santa Luzia

The patron saint of the village

I could wander around Santa Luzia all day and every day. So many of the houses are clothed in beautiful azulejo tiles. Just 2 km west of Tavira, this fishing village has an identity all of its own. Modern housing has been added, and a new seafront promenade since my first visit, more than 10 years ago. Yet somehow this village is timeless and defies outsiders to change its true nature. Would you like to share it with me? We’ll take just a slow walk today. There’s plenty of time.

The waterfront is where I usually start

It’s an easy place to spend time

The palm trees don’t provide much shade, but there are plenty of cafes lining the waterfront. It’s a place where you could idle away many an hour, just watching and wondering. Avenida Duarte Pacheco is the village’s main street and behind it there are only a handful of others. Getting lost really isn’t an option, but you’re welcome to try.

A typical house on Duarte Pacheco, next to a cafe

Every street has its patterns

Some adorning lovely old houses with balconies

And a protective saint

Or a family name

The street signs are lyrical (Baker’s St.)

Isn’t this just beautiful?

I’m going to be a very lazy tour guide today and simply let you wander. The details that appeal to each of us are different, aren’t they? I think you should have time to choose where to linger.

Choose a street and head inland

There’s a small square with the church

Some of the tiles have seen better days

While some houses are grander

And newly whitewashed

The whole seems to me to blend together. The locals go about their business, paying little heed to the tourists. I always venture a smile and ‘Bom dia’ and without fail there is a response.

Splashes of colour call out to me everywhere

And those details that I love

The tiles not always to my taste

But so many things please the eye

I’m going to be just a little naughty now. You remember my fondness for boats? For just 3 or 4 months in Summer a ferry runs from Santa Luzia across to the ilha, Tavira Island. It’s only a 10 minute crossing, so just about time to get comfortable. One of the nice things, though, is the opportunity it gives you to observe Santa Luzia from the water. Would you like to see? And if you’re full of energy, you can have a swift stride down the beach. I’ll be right with you!

The ferry’s in!

And away we go

Past the fishing fleet

And working boats

Across the channel of water

And we’re there!

Pulled up at the ‘ilha’

Looking back towards Tavira as the ferry departs

There’s plenty of space down at the beach

Or you could collect up umbrellas

Or maybe a quick paddle?

And then it’s back on board

And return to Santa Luzia

Not so bad, was it? Just one last look at Santa Luzia and you’ll want to eat. Casa do Polvo, at the eastern end of the front, is great if you’re an octopus fan. On some evenings you can listen to fado there too, and even join in and sing a little if the fancy takes you. Away from the front there are a number of small restaurants. Most will feed you well. It’s just a matter of taste.

Another lovely street sign

And yet more tile patterns

A collection of quirky chimney pots

And a letter box I love!

I’m hoping you enjoyed this week’s walk. Not too strenuous, was it? And the Eastern Algarve is easy on the eye, I always think?

Next week will be an English walk and very different. I’m going to my daughter’s in Nottingham next weekend and will be travelling back on the Monday. I’m going to attempt to schedule a walk. I’ve never done that before but am hoping it’s easy. If all else fails, I will be home by teatime and will post the walk then. Wish me luck!

Wow! What a week! So many fantastic entries. You’re definitely going to need a cuppa, or even two, to read your way through. I’m off to put the kettle back on. Thank you so much, everybody, for joining Jo’s Monday walk. The details are in my logo.

I simply love Drake’s Beatles walk! :

Let it be

The Botanical Garden in Zagreb is beautiful! Thanks for sharing, Paula :

Monday Walk in the Botanical Garden

And, in case you missed it, atmospheric castle ruins near Bratislava, also in Paula’s delightful company :

A walk around Devin Castle

Meg tackled a tricky one this week. All in a good cause! :

On Nerrigundah Ridge

My lovable friend Cathy is finding her way around Nanning in China. Go and say ‘hi’ please? :

A Monday morning walk on Campus

A water lily from Israel! And incredibly beautiful, thanks, Cardinal :

Water Lily Porn

Gardens! Gardens! And more lovely gardens! Thanks, Jude :

Garden Portrait : Westonbury Mill Water Gardens

Garden Portrait : Sezincote

Fabulous, aren’t they? And wait till you see Amy’s playful walk beside the river! :

Walking along the river

A town with less than 1000 residents but lots of history is Yvette’s contribution :

A walk in Scotsville, VA

And from California, please give a warm welcome to Elena :

Big Bear Lake

With a destination that keeps getting higher on my ‘must see’ list, Debbie’s sharing a real beauty! Treat yourself- say ‘hello’ :

Walking on Top of the World in Marseille

And in this topsy turvy world of ours, Pauline is beautifully immersed in Spring. Don’t miss it!

Totally immersed in the splendour of Spring

That’s it for now, folks. Have a very splendid week and happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : the village of Giverny

Isn’t this perfection?

I took so many lovely images on my visit to the Monet garden in Giverny. It was quite hard to leave. But I had little idea of the other treats that lay in store for me in the village. I thought that this Monday you might like to join me in a gentle stroll in the Normandy sunshine? You won’t even need hiking boots! Sound promising?

Shuttered windows peep from behind a Russian Vine covered hedge

Claude Monet lived in the village of Giverny from 1883 to 1926 and there is no doubt that it has prospered hugely as a result of this. Still it remains a very charming place and it’s not difficult to see what drew Monet and his artist friends here. There were only 300 people living in the village when Monet first spotted it from the window of a passing train and decided he wanted to live there. Today Rue Claude Monet is the principal street of the village.

A legend among the ivy

Normally I save food for the end of my walks but you may remember that I’d already travelled from Paris and spent a couple of hours at the Monet garden. The Musee des Impressionismes has a very pleasant restaurant and gardens and is just a few steps further along Rue Claude Monet. We had a combined ticket with Monet’s garden, saving a few euros, but you didn’t need to enter the museum to eat in their restaurant, or to see the garden.

I was very happy with my Caesar Salad and vin blanc

While somebody decided he’d earned a big beer

The venue was rather nice

And we even found time to admire the garden

Of course, we had to check out the paintings too, and then it was time to venture into the village. We wandered along, admiring the shuttered windows. They looked so French!

White against soft grey stone

Gentle green on pink, with neatly tied nets

Smart and efficient looking

Smothered in green

Neat and rather stylish

Or carried away on a tide of flowers

This artist’s gallery beckoned me inside

I stopped a little further along Rue de Claude Monet to peer inside a gallery. “Come in, come in” beamed the proprietor (in French, of course), patting his head to indicate that I should keep mine low. I would have loved to start snapping the sea of canvases in the tiny space, but it didn’t seem polite. I had the impression that we could have become lifelong friends and that I’d take breakfast in the cafe next door. Fortunately I was rescued by another customer descending the steps, and the ‘patting of head routine’. A true show of French gallantry.

‘Le Coin des Artistes’ at no. 65 was first a grocery store, then a cafe-bar in Monet’s time, and is now a smart looking bed and breakfast. At no. 81, Hotel Baudy has been recently restored and was also a popular meeting place for artists . A few steps further, Eglise Sainte Radegonde dates from the Middle Ages and is the burial place of Monet and many of his family.

Hotel Baudy

A peep inside

Village life!

The view across the fields to the river

Sainte Radegonde church

Monet’s grave

The village is long and slim and at the end you can turn down to Chemin du Roy to complete a circuit back to your beginnings. I was much taken with the narrow interconnecting lanes, which reminded me a little of the Wynds in Yorkshire. Following my nose led to Rue du Milieu (Middle St.) looking over garden walls as I go. I do like to be nosy!

The prettiest of my ‘Wynds’

A quiet courtyard garden

Over a garden fence

A map of the village

Giverny lies on La Route Normandie Vexin, midway between Rouen and Paris, in the midst of chateau territory. With the Seine on its doorstep, boat trips are also an option. I took great delight in this village, which offered me far more than I had expected. I hope you found it a lovely place to ramble, too. Indulge me with a last few shots from the Monet garden?

What can you say?

And borders full of delight

Joyfully extravagant

And wildly flamboyant

I enjoyed my time in France so much! There may still be a post or two to come but I think that next week’s Monday walk will be back in the UK. I try to keep them seasonal and the Yorkshire Moors are in full bloom at the moment. I do hope that you’ll join me but I will have limited time to respond to you as I’ll be back in the Algarve by Monday evening.

There won’t be a Monday walk on 8th September, but I’ll remind you about that next week. Meanwhile, are you ready for a good read?

I think most of you will find Drake’s style much more relaxing than mine :

Few steps, large atmosphere

While Paula shows us exquisite beauty in Istria :

Macabre Fresco

I took the hint this week- no steps to climb! Here’s a lovely flat walk from Jude :

A walk along the Dee

Does fun in the sun in Texas appeal? It will if you join Amy! :

Lake, river and trails in Austin

Or come and have a hug, and a little history, with Sue’s Mum :

Canada’s Battle of Batoche-Louis Riel’s last stand

Finally a walk recommended to me by my dear friend Meg. Have you been to Ethiopia? :

Walkabout to the Blue Nile Falls

That’s it till next week. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Discovering Montmartre

Where else but the Moulin Rouge?

Whenever I visit a new city I like to take a guided walk with a local. You might remember that in Barcelona I accompanied Aleksandra on an eye-opening tour of the old side. Paris was no exception.

A couple of my blogging friends are Paris experts and Lucy at On the Luce has a great post on which I spotted Discover Walks. I was tempted by several of the choices, and so it was that, last Monday, I met Olivier. A personable and very charming 20 year old, I knew at the outset that I was going to enjoy my walk. And it was free, apart from a tip!

We met outside Blanche Metro station, at Place Pigalle, looking directly at that Paris icon, the Moulin Rouge. There was quite a big group of us. Why don’t you tag along? I promise not to give away the best stories. You’ll have to join Olivier for those. I should warn you that this area is very steep, but we’ll take it slowly and pause to admire the views.

With all of Paris at our feet!

We started off up Rue Lepic- a street full of shops and locals. It was tempting to linger over some of the pastries on display, but I hoped there would be time for them later. For now, I wanted to absorb all that Montmartre has to offer. Originally a village, outside of the city walls, the name Montmartre derives from martyrs who once were tortured and died on this hill. Despite being incorporated into the city of Paris in 1860, Montmartre retains a strong identity and almost a village feeling. It’s a community to which you would love to belong.

Olivier carried with him a satchel full of goodies and it wasn’t long before he was delving in. Outside Bateau-Lavoir, on tiny Place Emile-Goudeau, he produced a copy of a painting. In this former piano factory, in 1907, Picasso painted his Cubist ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’; a portrayal of 5 naked prostitutes, outrageous for its time. No longer is there evidence of the squalid conditions he and his compatriots lived in, as the building has since burned down. A replica currently marks the spot.

The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)

In Rue d’Orchampt, the tragic story of beautiful Dalida

And the ill-fated building where she met her end

A sample of modern artwork in the nearby passage

Artists and their haunts abound in Montmartre. Dalida was unlucky in love. After the suicides of three of her lovers she finally committed suicide herself. A beautiful home isn’t everything, is it?

Around the corner another copy of a painting emerged from Olivier’s satchel. Enthralled I looked at the windmills Van Gogh had painted, in their surrounding fields. His countryside setting was nothing like that before me. Once Montmartre had more than 30 windmills, used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes. Now just two remain. At the junction of rues Lepic and Tholoze, Moulin de la Galette is one of them. A Michelin starred restaurant, it’s definitely a sign of the times.

Later, in the Musee d’Orsay, I was to stare wide-eyed at Renoir’s immortalisation of the windmill in ‘Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette’, so beautiful in closeup. I can only manage a photograph.

A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views

Our next introduction was to a gentleman by the name of Marcel Aymé. Have you heard of ‘The Man who walked through walls’? No, neither had I, but there he was, protruding from the wall! I gather that he haunts Rue Norvins by night- a good reason not to loiter.

Olivier with Dutilleul, the ‘hero’ of the book

A look at the Montmartre vineyard was to follow, but with strict instructions not to buy the product. Pollution levels in Paris are apparently not conducive to producing fine wine.

The Montmartre vineyard- it’s green enough, isn’t it?

And down the hill, ‘Au Lapin Agile’- the nimble rabbit- a cabaret spot

It’s a green and leafy space where you can hear the birds sing. It’s not until you start to approach the monumental church that things begin to get busy. I could happily wander these quiet back streets but inevitably you are drawn to Place du Tertre, where all of life spills over.

Approaching Sacre Coeur from the rear

A quiet drink on the way?

Or a visit to the Musee de Montmartre?

Our group progress inexorably upwards

Not for us the crush of the main square. We pass through peaceful gardens and emerge behind Sacre Coeur, where Olivier shares a final few tips and bids us ‘adieu’. A job well done! Merci!

Sacre Coeur from the gardens at the rear

You know where I’m going next, don’t you? But first let’s have a quick peek at Place du Tertre.

Such a pretty square

And full of beautiful art work

Restaurants

Artists

And pretty pictures

Too many people for me! I’m heading right for the top. I figure with all that practise up four flights of stairs to our apartment, 300 steps will be a piece of cake?

The church first, but I wasn't allowed to take photos

The church doorway, but I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside

Up close and personal with a gargoyle first

Maybe, don’t look down!

Out is good!

There’s that Eiffel Tower again!

A bit of a rest stop

With beautiful views!

Still a long way down

I’ll focus on a close up

I never did make it to La Defense!

But I was on good terms with the gargoyles!

Are you worn out now? You didn’t have to climb all those steps with me! My legs are a bit jelly, too. I hope you enjoyed my Paris walk. Back down is simple. Just meander! Many thanks to Olivier for his delightful assistance.

I turned my back for 5 minutes this week and you walkers took off at a pace! Please make some time to read these. There are some superb walks here. Put your feet up and enjoy! (and then start walking) Click on my Monday walks logo to find out more.

Drake? Well, he was at a quarry :

Secluded works of art

And Jude was in her beloved Cornwall :

Capturing Cornwall

Madhu made me sad with her wistful haveli photos :

Lucknow- a walk in the Chowk

And Pauline introduced me to a pretty section of Canberra :

Canberra Lakeside walk

While Amy was out chasing beautiful butterflies :

Trail walking

The definitive London walk- you won’t want to miss it! :

A glorious Summer’s day in London

And by way of complete contrast, Sue has us dangling in wide open spaces :

Grassi Lakes- the Canmore jewels

Not quite so reckless but another lover of the great outdoors, join Suzan on a bear adventure :

Close encounters of the Bear kind

Right back to London, Laura shows us a side that tourists seldom see :

Walkabout 3- the Branch Line

I thought I was eating choux pastry with Jude. It must have been those steps!

New Abbey Buildings

And finally my lovely Viveka in Vienna. You will never have taken a finer tour! :

Felt like a local

Happy walking all! See you next week.

Jo’s Monday walk : to Infinity and beyond!

Just a hint of blue sky through the Infinity Bridge

One of the hardest things about my Monday walks is deciding where to take you next. I have easy access to both coast and countryside where I live in the north east of England. Add in a healthy dose of curiosity and restlessness and the sky’s the limit!

Last week’s visit to the Glass Centre is a hard act to follow, but I’m going to take you a little way south of me today, to the River Tees. The lovely curves of the Infinity Bridge have added grace and beauty to another quite industrial part of my world. This weekend the Stockton Riverside Festival was taking place. I hope a deluge or two didn’t dampen the enthusiasm for the music.

Our start point will be the parking lot behind the White Water Centre. We’ve walked around the Tees Barrage before but this time we’ll be heading towards Stockton-on-Tees.

The White Water Centre, and cafe

There are usually canoes taking to the water. Tees Barrage is in the distance

Walk towards the Infinity Bridge

And underneath! Don’t worry- we’ll come back to it.

It’s a popular cycle track too, so you’ll need to be alert. Some cyclists sound their bell in warning, but more often they just loom up. You don’t want to drop your camera!

Stockton is an Anglo-Saxon name, the ending ‘ton’ meaning farm or homestead. There is little in the way of agriculture to be seen on this stretch of the River Tees. The town used to have a thriving outdoor market where fresh produce was readily and cheaply available. The life and character that this brought has sadly vanished.

Stockton’s main claim to fame is tied to the advent of steam travel in 1822. The first rail of George Stephenson’s Stockton and Darlington Railway was laid locally, on Bridge Rd. Stephenson drove Locomotion no.1 himself on its first journey, on 27th September 1825. In recent years the riverside has been developed to make a focal point for the town.

A tribute to George Stephenson’s Locomotion no.1

The riverside and Teesside Millenium Bridge

The riverside and Teesquay Millenium Footbridge

Have you spotted something beyond the bridge? Something with tall masts? My main reason for walking this way, and one of my favourite things. Wait just a moment.

First we need to pass beneath the bridge

And here we have it!

Isn’t she a beauty?

Here’s a small clue

I love these tall masted beauties!

James Cook was a local lad and is widely feted in this part of the world. HM Bark Endeavour took him on the first of three voyages of discovery in the Pacific Ocean. He sailed thousands of miles of largely uncharted waters, mapping New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii for the British Navy. He died in Hawaii in 1779, leaving behind a huge legacy of scientific and geographical knowledge.

HMS Bark Endeavour has the company of some smaller craft

And a whole load of swans!

So hard to resist boat shots!

There’s a mural disguising the multi-storey car park

But now it's time to cross over the bridge

But now it’s time to cross over the Millenium bridge

Looking back at the boats and Thornaby railway bridge

Looking back- the Princess river cruiser and Thornaby railway bridge

While the clouds lurk overhead!

We’re heading back towards the Infinity Bridge. On the far shore of the Tees there are numerous office complexes and we thread our way through them, passing poorly maintained canals.

Looking back across the Tees

Keeping the curves of the Infinity in sight

Under bridges and over bridges

Till we burst into the light again!

You could play with the angles all day

But look behind you. A storm’s a-brewing!

One last look to the heavens

And it’s time to quickly cross!

You know your way back from here, don’t you, and it’s not far. Maybe a coffee in the White Water Centre, or there’s a pub along at the Tees Barrage. The easiest access is undoubtedly by car, but you could do the walk from Stockton, which is well served by buses and trains.

I’m not going to be walking with you next week. I hope to be on a different riverbank- the Seine. I could schedule a walk but I prefer not to. The joy in my Monday feature comes from sharing, and responding to your lovely comments, and I won’t have time to do that in Paris. Feel free to explore a little without me, but report back, won’t you?

Two more things before I go. I noticed that my friend Marianne, from East of Malaga, is featuring Bridges in her CBBH challenge this month. We’ve been friends for the longest time but I seldom have time to visit. I’m hoping she won’t mind if I include a link to my walk this week. It certainly features bridges, doesn’t it? A condition of the CBBH challenge is to introduce 2 of your friends to Marianne. I will certainly do that with my links below.

Speaking of friends, and I’ve made so many of you on here, I know that I will be walking in the footsteps of Christine at least some of the time next week. I couldn’t go without one last tribute.

I hope you’ll find some time to visit my lovely walking friends now. Put that kettle on!

Jude has found me a mill and a lovely public garden in Gatehouse of Fleet :

The Gatehouse of Fleet

The Travel Bunny, Suzanne, has gelato on her mind. It must be the weather! :

Pisa- Much more than a Leaning Tower

Drake found some long haired cattle to walk with us this week. He always has fun! :

On the West (not the Wild West!)

It will be very tempting to sit down on Amy’s walk this week, but you might need a cushion :

Spanish tiles

That’s it for now! See you in two weeks time. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : City of Sunderland

Looking out at the quay, from the National Glass Centre

You might remember, before I started my regular Monday walks feature, the post A Promenade to Roker? It started from the National Glass Centre and followed the River Wear out to the beach at Roker, north of Sunderland. I always intended to try a walk in the opposite direction, following the river through the city. Since I promised you a level walk last week, I thought this might be a good one to try.

It’s an industrial area and the National Glass Centre is like a jewel at its centre. I’m like a kid with a new toy if I get to visit, so we’ll be popping in later, but right now it’s time to start walking.

We’ll start on the quayside, outside the Glass Centre

A number of boats are casually moored, waiting for an owner

This gently blue one’s a favourite

But I took my eye off the boats for long enough to look at this!

We’re walking alongside the University of Sunderland, and in term time the grass is strewn with students. This morning the sun was glinting prettily on the medieval book, outside the university library. There’s a wry sense of humour in the placement of giant nuts and bolts on the quay.

And the inevitable graffiti, of course!

Compensated for by this willowy creation

It’s base decorated appropriately

With tools

The tree

And a crane

We're walking towards the bridge over the River Wear

We’re walking towards the road and rail bridges over the River Wear

And then beneath them

To a short, pretty stretch of the river

Where barely a ripple disturbs the surface

There are many reminders of the pitheads and the harsh life that miners and their families lived.

Brockwell Bottom, 645 metres deep

An ode to Sarah Seed

Part of the pithead

The ‘black diamond’ warms

The mouth of hell

On the far shore, a crane building factory

Today a ‘crane building’ factory decorates the far shore

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Looking back at the wall plaques (and at Sunderland FC )

Soon after this the riverside path runs out, and we have the choice whether to retrace our steps or to see a little more. Curiosity always takes me onto unfamiliar ground so I followed the curve of the path. It loops up to join the Coast to Coast cycle route, which runs from the east coast all the way across to Whitehaven in Cumbria.

This results in a closer look at the ‘Stadium of Light’

And the Olympic sized swimming pool

Alongside the ‘Black Cats’, as Sunderland are fondly known

Bob Stokoe would have been proud

Of the interesting sculptures outside

I head towards the bridges, cross at the busy traffic lights by St. Peter’s Metro stop, and drop back down to the river path within sight of my start point.

A couple of tugboats are just completing their business

For you and me, a treat awaits

Inside the Glass Centre

A crab sandwich? Don’t mind if I do

And a bit of a browse

Aren’t these simply gorgeous?

Linger as long as you want. There’s always something going on. I noticed on my table a leaflet for ‘Hen Night Heaven!’ Only in the north east! You can learn to blow a glass bauble followed by a delicious afternoon tea, with champagne. Details of all events, and how to get here, are on this link to the National Glass Centre.

Before you leave, take a look up! You’ll probably see people wandering across the roof.

Hello! Can you see me down here?

Don’t worry! It’s reinforced glass.

And that’s the way we walked. Good, wasn’t it?

Phew! Hope you enjoyed our walk today. It’s time to look at some more, then click on my Jo’s Monday walk logo to see how you can join in. You’d better get yourself a cuppa first!

Jude took me back to Grasmere last week. I haven’t been for the longest time :

Circumnavigating Grasmere Lake

I had such fun riding around in the panier on Drake’s bike, but I really should get off and walk! :

The bike as the stowaways

Bird lovers among you will absolutely delight in this. Welcome to my walks, Jo! Please go and say ‘hi’ to Jo everybody :

I just love birds

Laura’s had back surgery, but has put together a wonderful historical ramble in London :

Walkabout 2- the Fleet by foot

If I were to find myself in Amy’s Lan Su, I would think I’d died and gone to heaven :

Lan Su Garden

And finally, Kathryn has brought me the most beautiful light on the Dutch canals :

Mas en Peel

Please go and give Kathryn a hug. Things aren’t going so well. See you all next week, I hope?

Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby cliff tops

St. Mary's Church, suspended on the cliff top

St. Mary’s Church and Whitby Abbey, suspended on the cliff top

Now, I know what you’re thinking! ‘This lady is obsessed with cliff tops and water’. And you wouldn’t be very far wrong. After the cliffs at Sagres in the Algarve, and last week’s Seaham walk, it’s becoming a recurring theme. I do try to vary my walks for you, but I can’t help being just a little biased.

This week we’re going down the North Yorkshire coast to Whitby. Last time I took you there we went window shopping. It’s a small town that has something for everyone, but my favourite part is unquestionably up on the cliff, looking down. First we have to get up there. We’ll tackle the steps pretty soon, to get them out of the way. Your reward can be fish and chips afterwards. Agreed?

The car park is right next to the marina- a good place to start!

I love the eye-catching colours of the boats

Smart as paint!

And today there’s a treat! The swing bridge is opening.

In all my years, I have rarely seen this sight in the bustling little port. A crowd gathers to watch the sailboat go by, and as the gates swing shut again, a queue forms to cross over the bridge. A delightful party of small schoolchildren with cheery blazers were being corralled by their teachers. I’d have loved a shot but they were too fidgety! Over we go, to be met by a confusion of signs.

There is a confusion of signs! And can you see the bubbles coming out of that box?

I thought these bubbles were with the schoolchildren, but apparently not!

Then it’s the steps! Only 199 of them

But don't worry! You can stop to admire the view.

But don’t worry! You can keep stopping to admire the view.

It’s lovely in either direction

Here’s an interesting place to live! Next to Caedmon’s Trod

And at the top St. Mary's Church is beckoning

And at the top, St. Mary’s Church quietly waits

Whitby has been welcoming visitors for a long time. The earliest record of a permanent settlement is 656AD, when an abbey was founded on the East Cliff by Oswy, the Christian king of Northumbria. Viking raiders destroyed the monastery that followed, and for 200 years the site lay desolate, until after the Norman Conquest of 1066. The area was then granted to William de Percy who, in 1078, donated land upon which was constructed a Benedictine Monastery, St. Mary’s Church and the town and port of Whitby.

The name Whitby comes from Old Norse, meaning ‘White Settlement’. It was here, in Whitby Abbey, that the earliest recognised English poet, Caedmon, a former cowherd, lived and worked. The town has a strong literary history and famously features in Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

Set on the River Esk, Whitby has a sheltered harbour, and in the 18th century the port was a thriving centre for shipbuilding, whaling and the transport of locally mined alum and jet. The jet became very fashionable when Queen Victoria adopted it for her mourning jewellery on the death of Prince Albert. Whitby jet shops still feature prominently in the cobbled streets today.

The clouds are gathering, so it’s time to move on

Pass by the entrance to the Abbey ruins

And out on the cliff top, look back at Whitby Abbey and the pier

Ahead lies Saltwell Nab

And beyond that, Whitby Holiday Park, balanced precariously on the cliffs

At this point you can turn inland and follow a path back to the coast road, but I wanted to see more. We are only 1 mile out of Whitby, and 5 miles further down the coast is idyllic Robin Hood’s Bay. I continue on, along the Cleveland Way.

Whitby is still visible in the distance

And below, the glistening bay

While colourful Cinnebar moths flutter at the cliff's edge

While colourful red and black Cinnebar moths explore delicious yellow cowslips

Another treat in store next- a former lighthouse and fog-horn station

Another treat awaits – a lighthouse and a fog-horn station!

‘Hornblower Lodge’ is now a holiday cottage, but was formerly a fog-horn station, fondly known as the Whitby Bull. The original horn was switched off in 1987 but before that it worked in conjunction with Whitby High Light. The lighthouse is only 13 metres high but is positioned on the cliff top, 73 metres above high water level, with a range of 18 nautical miles.

The lighthouse also has holiday cottages to let, details included in the link.

Whitby High Light

Wouldn’t you like to live here? I would!

Or how about ‘Hornblower Cottage’?

A lane heads inland from the cottage, taking you past farmland, and soon you are back on the coastal road. You can follow this all the way back to Whitby and visit the Abbey, if you like. It’s well worth a visit, and there is a restaurant on site. Or you can save the visit for another day and take the footpath to your left, just past the Holiday Park sign. This will bring you back into Whitby, threading your way down through the houses to end up almost opposite your start point.

Heading back to Whitby

Down the steps, and past the houses

Back at your start point, at the harbourside

Till you’re back at our start point, by the harbour

These are the newest lobster pots I ever saw!

These are the newest lobster pots I have ever seen!

Speaking of lobster, I seem to remember we had an agreement? Whitby is full of fish and chip shops but ‘Hadleys’ is a favourite of mine. Always busy, I don’t know how the girls stay so cheerful. You’ll find it on the corner, just over the swing bridge and before the Whitby steps.

No, I haven't forgotten! Believe me, they are really good

A little expensive, but very good

Just one last photo, for Jill, who thinks my skies are always blue!

The downpour drove me inside the excellent Tourist Information Centre, right by the car park, but it didn’t last for long. Or I could have gone shopping for Whitby jet.

What do you think?

My walk is about 6 miles in total, or the shorter version 4 and a half. I hope you enjoyed it. If you don’t drive, Whitby is easily accessible by rail from Middlesbrough. This link will give you lots more information about the area, to encourage you to visit.

I’m so lucky this week! Meg has agreed to be my tour guide to the Wilanow Palace in Warsaw :

http://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/a-stroll-through-the-gardens-at-wilanow/

And she doesn’t mind a spot of rain, either :

http://morselsandscraps2.wordpress.com/2014/07/13/walking-in-the-rain/

Drake introduced me to Svendborg in Denmark. What a beauty! :

http://ledrakenoir.wordpress.com/2014/07/14/an-old-port-out-to-the-world/

Please don’t miss Jude’s Logan Botanic Gardens. You will be bedazzled! :

http://smallbluegreenflowers.wordpress.com/2014/07/14/garden-portrait-logan-botanic-garden/

Sylvia is running out of time for her beach walks, but don’t be sad! :

http://anotherday2paradise.wordpress.com/2014/07/15/another-nostalgic-beach-walk-for-jo/

And I got deluged at the falls with Amy- and loved it! :

http://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2014/07/16/jos-monday-walk-multnomah-falls/

Pauline (you know her as Pommepal) has sent me a post all the way from Canberra, down under :

http://pommepal.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/welcome-to-cool-climate-canberra/

And I thought I’d just update you on Elaine :

http://elainemcnulty.wordpress.com/2014/07/16/yorkshire-3-peaks-challenge-the-update/

That’s quite a lot of reading for you so you’ll need a cuppa (or two!). I promise to find you a flat walk for next week. If you’d like to join me, just click on the logo for details.

Jo’s Monday walk : Seaham ‘Tommy’

Sculpture Eleven O One, known by the locals as ‘Tommy’

It’s a far cry from the cliff tops of the Algarve to the Green above the cliffs in former mining town, Seaham, but that’s where our walk will take us this week. The campaign to keep Tommy in place has attracted national attention, and I needed to see him for myself.

Built out of special corten steel by local sculptor, Ray Lonsdale, Eleven O One is so named for the armistice which came into effect at 11am on November 11, 1918. His air of total bone weariness and despair makes you want to throw an arm around him. Originally intended to be in place for just 3 months, Tommy has touched so many hearts that donations have almost raised the £85,000 needed to keep him.

I’ve taken you to Seaham before, though not on my Monday walks. It has a long seafront and a pretty little marina. Come with me and I’ll show you a bit more.

I’m starting at the car park at the far end of the front

And walking back along it towards the lighthouse

Pausing to admire the many rock pools

There’s a lot of cloud today

So the sea isn’t quite at it’s twinkly best

But it’s still a place where the starfish like to play!

For the moment we will bypass the Green, where a crowd gathers to have a photo taken with Tommy. I will come back when it’s quieter, to lay a hand on his knee and try to console him. Instead, we will drop down into the marina, not looking quite so pretty today with heavy skies.

Boats can always snare my attention

With a waft of flowers to cheer them up

And a few noble weeds

Can you see the birds nesting on the back wall?

I always like to have a few boat shots!

This reflective one is my favourite

There are good views out to the lighthouse from the cafe that sits above the marina, and the RNLI have an excellent museum, showcasing the lifeboat, if you have time to browse.

Leaving the marina, I look out to the lighthouse

And back across the bay, at Seaham , above the cliffs

There are miles of cliff tops so you can extend the walk as far as you want. There are parking facilities at both ends of the seafront and also by the Green. A lower promenade takes you closer to the beach, or you can check out the craft shops and sample local cuisine if that appeals more. But now it’s time to return to Tommy.

Too tired for thought

The eternal weapon in his hand

Rations and the cares of the world on his back

Sunk in despair

Tommy’s story

If only it were over!

Could anything be more sad?

Time I shared with you some brilliant walks from last week. You can click on the logo above or my Jo’s Monday walks page for details of how to join in. You’re always very welcome.

First up we have Elaine, fresh from the Three Peaks Challenge on Saturday. I think she’s earned a rest this week! :

walking The Ridgeway from Tring Station to Wendover

Drake has been a loyal supporter since I started my walks. Come with us to lovely Strasbourg :

Age do charm

Jude always has an eye for a beautiful garden and this week is no exception :

Garden Portrait: Glenwhan Gardens

The Alcazar in Seville is a special place, especially when seen through Amy’s lens :

Jo’s Monday Walk: the Alcázar Gardens

You need a strong stomach for Sue’s post this week. Deep fried Oreos? After you! :

http://traveltalesoflife.com/2014/07/11/chocolate-dipped-bacon-and-scorpion-pizza-eating-at-the-calgary-stampede-a-wild-ride/

Happy walking folks! I hope to see you next week.

restlessjo

Roaming, at home and abroad

walking

Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Jo’s Monday walk : Leeds Waterfront

Jo’s Monday walk : gliding high!

Jo’s Monday walk : Santa Luzia

Jo’s Monday walk : the village of Giverny

Jo’s Monday walk : Discovering Montmartre

Jo’s Monday walk : to Infinity and beyond!

Jo’s Monday walk : City of Sunderland

Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby cliff tops

Jo’s Monday walk : Seaham ‘Tommy’

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