Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : The Drummer Boy

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey, ghostly in the mist

Easby Abbey seemed to me to be quite at home shrouded in mist.  I’d chosen the riverside walk from Richmond, in Yorkshire, for its Autumn colour and had almost forgotten the sad story of the Drummer Boy.  Legend has it that, towards the end of the 18th century, a tunnel was discovered beneath the keep of Richmond Castle.  The entrance to the tunnel was very narrow, so a small regimental drummer boy was chosen, to squeeze through and investigate.

He was lowered into the tunnel and instructed to beat his drum loudly as he walked.  The soldiers above could follow his progress from the drumbeat. He led them away from the castle and down to the River Swale, in the direction of Easby Abbey.  Half a mile from the Abbey, the drumbeat ceased.  The little drummer was never seen or heard from again!

The Drummer Boy stone

The Drummer Boy stone

I think I can probably guarantee to guide us on this walk without disappearing.  Are you game?

From Richmond Market Place, turn north on Frenchgate, and then right, along Station Rd.  Just as you reach the bridge, with The Station on the far shore, you will find a turn off, pointing to Easby Abbey.  The path climbs up from the riverside and will lead you to a junction, where the Drummer Boy stone is placed.

Looking back towards the castle

Looking back towards the castle and St. Mary’s Church

Leaves strew the footpath

Leaves strew the footpath

The river chortles along below, tantalising with glimpses through the trees.  Soon you come to a field and across this you have St. Agatha’s House (a private residence) on your left and to your right, Easby Abbey.  The Abbey of St. Agatha, as it is more correctly known, dates from 1152 but has stood abandoned since the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the late 1530s.  The former inhabitants were canons rather than monks, members of the Premonstratensian (or Norbertine) order.  The White Canons, known for the colour of their habit, were Roman Catholics.

It's a lonely spot but St. Agatha's Church is gentle company

It’s a lonely spot, but St. Agatha’s Church is good company

The Abbey from the church grounds

The Abbey from the church grounds

The site is maintained by English Heritage and is free of charge.  I was a little surprised to find the church open and even more surprised at what I found inside.

The church is known to pre-date the Abbey and the Medieval wall paintings date from 1250.  It felt well-loved.  In the grounds a small army of men were beavering away, removing overgrown trees.  Retracing my steps through the church gate, I turned my attention to the Abbey.

The gatehouse lay just across the lane

The gatehouse, just across the lane from the church

The graceful lines of the Abbey

The sturdy lines of the Abbey

Cloister detail

Cloister detail

The window of the Refectory

The window of the Refectory

Time to resume our walk.  Turn right at the Abbey gate and follow the lane down.  A gravel path beside the River Swale heads east and after about 300 yards comes to an old iron bridge.  Cross over and take the former railway track, signed ‘Richmond, half a mile’.

Hips and haws?

Hips or haws?

The River Swale chatters along below

The River Swale chatters along below

Once back at The Station, you can easily retrace your steps, but it seems a shame to me to leave the river when it’s about to reveal its might. How about we pop into The Station for a snack and a look at some art work before we continue?

I’ve written about The Station before.  In fact, I was there on my birthday, 2 years ago.  Seems I have a weakness for this part of the world in the Autumn.  Since I was last there a bakery has opened and the accompanying smells were delicious!  Come on- just ten minutes more.  I promise you, it’s worthwhile.

Cross over the bridge and turn left through a gate.  The path follows the river quite closely or you can get nearer by walking on the grass.  The tree roots are exposed in places so watch your step if you leave the path.

Can you hear a rumbling sound?  You might have caught sight of them through the trees.  The river is very low this year after a dry Summer.

My first sighting always makes me smile!

My first sighting always makes me smile!

Just a little closer

Just a little closer

The power of the water is awesome

The power of the water is awesome

As always, I find myself entranced

As always, I find myself entranced

I hope you will agree it was worth another 10 minutes walking?  The hard part lies ahead because the road winds quite steeply back up to the Market Place, passing by the Castle.  The circular walk from the Market Place to Easby Abbey and back is just 3 miles.  Free parking is available at The Station, if you get there early enough. (and it saves you a climb)

Legend also links the Drummer Boy to Lewis Carroll, who grew up in Richmond.  Allegedly ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’ began life as ‘Alice’s Adventures Underground’.  I rather like the idea that he took inspiration from this story.

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And now it’s time to put the kettle on and join my fellow walkers this week.  Click on the logo if you’d like to join in.  You’d be more than welcome and there are always beautiful walks to share. Many thanks to everybody for their kind contributions.  Here we go!

Drake always has the power to fire my imagination  :

Emptiness with content

Of all the world’s beautiful cathedrals, I didn’t know this one, so thank you, Cardinal  :

Berlin Cathedral

And for probably the best deer shot you’ve seen this year!  Amy- you’re a treasure!  :

O.P. Schnabel Park

We’re honoured this week to share a post from Lucy, in a very special place on the Northumbrian coast  :

Marooned on Lindisfarne Island

If it’s scenery you’re after, it’s hard to beat County Tipperary.  Many thanks to Joan for sharing  :

Up in the hills

For the longest time I’ve been following Bespoke Traveller.  Read this post and you’ll see why  :

The long way down in Grand Canyon

If waterfalls and sky walks are your thing, follow Pauline to New South Wales  :

A journey into the dawn of time

If you prefer shopping, Meg has her shopping baskets at the ready  :

A Williamsburg walk

That’s it for another week.  I hope you enjoyed reading as much as I enjoyed putting it together. Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Leeds Waterfront

The Trans Pennine Trail

The Trans Pennine Trail at Leeds

When National Express changed my itinerary, giving me a 3 hour stopover in Leeds on my way home from Nottingham, they did me a big favour.  They gave me just enough time to explore Leeds Waterfront.  I’d done a tiny bit of research so I knew there was plenty to see.  I hope you like looking at canal boats and reflections?  There are rather a lot of them here.

I grabbed a sandwich as I whistled through the bus station, turned right at the doors, crossed over the road, and there I was, practically on the canal bank.  The weather forecast had predicted rain and the coach had passed through some heavy showers, but my luck was in.  Starved, because I hadn’t eaten breakfast, I found myself a seat by Clarence Dock and plonked myself down for 10 minutes, to munch and look at these beauties.

I'm never alone with a canal boat or two

I’m never alone with a canal boat or two

I don’t know whether you’re familiar with the Royal Armouries museum?  It’s the kind of place where you can lose a day quite easily.  Have a browse at the website.  You might want to make time to come back.  No spare time for me that day.  I had much exploring to do.

A raft of offices, restaurants and apartments surround the dock.  I had tried to memorise a route along the towpath but I did what I always do, which is to follow my nose.  This usually results in a few false starts and some day I will have to invest in technology so I can summon up the genie in the iPhone.  If you look at the Leeds Waterfront map it shows you quite clearly which paths are ‘navigable’.  Meantime I blunder on!

Time to leave Clarence Dock

Time to leave Clarence Dock

Looking back at the Royal Armouries museum

Looking back towards Royal Armouries and the lock

I stayed on the left bank of the River Aire, stopping for a look at Crown Point Bridge.  Opened in 1842, this was a toll bridge until 1868.  The towpath takes you past Brewery Wharf to Centenary Bridge, built in 1992 to celebrate 100 years of Leeds acquiring city status.  The views across to The Calls make this one of the most attractive stretches of the waterfront.

Bridge detail

Bridge detail

Underneath Crown Point Bridge

Crown Point Bridge x 2

At this point the towpath ceases for a short distance and you have to thread your way through Bridge End Apartments, where I found a delightful surprise.  The wooden bridge was under repair but, lying in the water beneath, bright jewels clustered on the lily pads.

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More by luck than skill, I found myself at Leeds Bridge.  Dating back to the 14th century, this bridge, originally made from stone, was for 500 years the main crossing point on the river.  The medieval bridge was demolished in 1871, when it could no longer cope with the volume of traffic, and the existing cast iron bridge was constructed by 1873.  A distinctive looking bridge, it was the setting for the world’s first moving pictures.  In 1888, Louis Le Prince filmed horse-drawn traffic on the bridge, showing it in his nearby workplace, which became the world’s first cinema.

Crossing over Leeds Bridge, the path then hugs the backs of stylish hotels around to Victoria Bridge.  The site of a ferry crossing and then a wooden footbridge washed away by floods, the Victoria Bridge was carved from local stone and completed in 1839, soon after the coronation of Queen Victoria.  Just beyond this point the River Aire meets the Leeds and Liverpool canal at Granary Wharf, loftily overlooked by the railway.

Victoria Bridge

Victoria Bridge

The canal continues out of the city and into the countryside, but I had run out of time to follow it any further.  There are 127 miles of the Leeds and Liverpool canal- enough walking even for me! I would have liked to explore Holbeck Urban Village with its iconic Italianate towers, but it was time to turn back.  I looped round into Water Lane and headed back up Neville Street, curious to see the light installation under the railway bridge.

Passing south of Trinity Church and the impressive looking shopping plaza, I chanced upon the Corn Exchange.  Anyone remember Donovan? Apparently he strummed along here before he was famous.  A striking mural caught my eye, then I was back at Kirkgate and the Leeds City Market. It’s a regular stop off for me if I’m passing through the city.  Both the food stalls and the architecture are unbeatable.  A friendly local informed me that I should come along on Halloween, when they open the top gallery for a ‘Spooky walk’.  Sounds like fun?

I hope I haven’t worn you out too much this week, but it’s been interesting, hasn’t it?  To join in my Monday walks click on the logo below and it will give you the details.  I’ve got the kettle on for what comes next- a visit to some wonderful friends.  Please do join me.

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Cardinal has a very individual style.  Let’s accompany him to Jerusalem  :

Jerusalem 9930

Violet Sky joins us again this week for a walk in the park  :

A walk in the park

Amy’s photography is an absolute joy  :

Where have all the flowers gone?

I really must visit Liverpool soon.  Drake’s colours sing!  :

Seeking out the colours

Meet Shan and her lovely family and go apple picking  :

Coffee and Conversation

And a huge welcome to Tish Farrell!  Her evocative writing style and photos makes me want to head for Wales right now  :

Now that Summer’s done, we take the Dol Idris path

Come and get a bit damp on the prom with me and Jude!  :

Reculver Towers and Roman Fort

And speaking of proms, how does New Zealand grab you?  Jill is very persuasive  :

Wellington on a good day

And just ‘up the road’, Rosemay takes us for a jaunt on the Perth coast  :

A walk with Winston

Staying ‘down under’, Pauline invites us for a beach walk.  It reminds me of Christine.  Where does the time go?

Beach walk

And lastly. our lovely Yvette is taking us to a ‘beautiful river’  :

Beautiful waterfront- Buffalo NY

Many thanks to you all for your company and warm support.  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal

The lovely ruins of Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire

The lovely ruins of Fountains Abbey

Classic English beauty combines with a watery world for this week’s walk at Studley Royal, in Yorkshire.  I’ve been there several times and always been cursed with dismal weather.  The balmy Autumn that we’ve been experiencing was just perfect for this visit.  A Cistercian Abbey, water gardens and a deer park- irresistible?  I think so!  But don’t forget to take your purse.  Being a National Trust property, it doesn’t come cheap. (currently £10.50- no concessions, unless you are a National Trust member)

Some things don’t change.  The monks who came here in 1132 were pretty good at amassing money too.  Thirteen Benedictine monks left St. Mary’s Abbey in York to found a Cistercian Abbey in this valley.  It became one of the richest in Europe.  Something that has changed, since my last visit, is the approach to the park.  You used to be able to drive into the estate through the deer park, but traffic now is all routed via the Visitor Centre.  Pick up a map at reception, and let’s go.

It's not long before you catch your first sight of the Abbey

It’s not long before you catch your first sight of the Abbey

The ruins are extensive and Fountains Abbey Mill is the only 12th century Cistercian cornmill left in the UK.  It was in continuous use until 1927, and today houses an interactive exhibition and the water wheel, which can still grind corn.

If you’ve never been here before, you will almost certainly be impressed with what comes next. After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539, the Abbey buildings and over 500 acres of land were sold by the Crown.  The property was passed down through several generations until it was inherited by John Aislabie, in 1693.  He was a socially and politically ambitious man and became Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1718, but his involvement in the South Sea Bubble financial scandal had him expelled from Parliament.  On his return to Yorkshire, he turned the wooded valley of the River Skell into one of England’s most spectacular Georgian water gardens.

A basin of water opens up before you

A basin of water opens up before you

The reflections in the lily pond are lovely

Reflections sparkle in the lily pond

With more sculptures

Yet more sculptures rough and tumble

A group of volunteer gardeners are raking pond weed from the canals- a pleasant enough occupation on such a sunny afternoon.  The curve of the Moon Pond stretches ahead, the pillars of the Temple of Piety a focal point on the far side.  Originally the Temple of Hercules, it is believed to have been renamed when John Aislabie’s son, William, commissioned a bas relief wall sculpture inside the temple, after his father’s death.

The Temple of Piety beyond the Moon Pond

The Temple of Piety, beyond the Moon Pond

You need to walk along the canal and cross over a narrow bridge to reach the Temple of Piety. From the bridge there’s a good view across the lake to the deer park.  I didn’t spot any deer at that distance, but was diverted by one of the park’s follies, the Octagon Tower.  A neo-Gothic castle, it looked to me very inviting, but sadly I couldn’t climb it.  Beneath it lies a Serpentine Tunnel, originally designed to give people a bit of a fright at garden parties.

The lake and deer park in the distance

The lake, with the deer park in the distance

The Octagon Tower, nestling in the trees

The Octagon Tower, nestling in the trees

I'm not sure what she was holding?

I’m not sure what she was holding?

It's a beautiful watery world

In her beautiful watery world

I couldn’t climb the tower, but I did find somewhere to look down onto the park.  A sign directing me to Anne Boleyn’s Seat and Surprise View could not be ignored.  I’ll spare you the climb because it was pretty steep, but I think you’d like the view.  You will have an advantage over Anne Boleyn, who never actually saw it.  That’s not because she didn’t have a head, but the name does come from a headless statue.

Back on the path, you can return along the opposite side of the canal, steadily approaching the Abbey.  There you will have a number of diversions.  You can visit the Mill or the tea rooms, and Fountains Hall is a stately exhibition space. (with holiday flats to let!)  Any children with you will love the interpretation centre at the Porter’s Lodge. (I did too!)  And if you have time and energy to spare, there’s the Gothic extravagance of St. Mary’s Church and a stroll round the deer park.

Don’t take my word for all this.  The National Trust website will tell you the whole story and provide instructions on how to get there.  I think that you would enjoy this World Heritage Site.  I know I did.  And now it really must be time to put the kettle on, don’t you think?

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Click on the logo to visit my Jo’s Monday walk page for details on how to join in.  As always we have a wonderful variety of walks to share.

How about a sample of Finnish nature with Vasilis?  I hope you’ve met before?  And the lingonberry tart looks so good! :

Finnish nature

Yvette’s taking street portraits and searching for a missing lady. Please share this one :

Street photos from Charlottesville, VA

Join Drake, very thoughtfully making war on waste  :

Escape from the Cityscape

Making people happy in Jerusalem- that’s Cardinal this week  :

Street Portrait : The Photographer

Amy has been having some more fun with her bird friends  :

Yoga on Water

And Jude has the most delicious selection of Michaelmas Daisies you ever saw!  :

Celebrating Saint Michael

Welcome a Blogspotter please!  Violet Sky has a very fun post to add to the collection.  Do go and say ‘hello’.  :

Lost and found

Pauline is in transit again, but has been kind enough to share a trip ‘over the border’ to New South Wales.  Safe travels, Pauline and Jack!  :

Lingering look at Heritage windows

That’s it for this week.  It just remains to wish you all ‘happy walking!’

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : gliding high!

Hello-o-o, up there!

Hello-o-o, up there!

You’re probably thinking that lack of sunshine has gone to my head!  No, I’m not planning a sky walk this week.  What I would like to do is to take you up Sutton Bank, on the Yorkshire Moors, to the glider school.  I actually took this walk a couple of weeks ago when I was out searching for purple heather on the moors.  A road diversion had us approaching from the wrong direction, and by a very roundabout route, so that I was in despair of finding any blooming heather.  What I did find, though, was gliders!  I guess it’s an ok substitute.

The heather has already bloomed and waned, but the gliders still fly high.  You won’t need to do any climbing to see them.  I hope you’re game to come with me?

Oh, really?

Oh, really?

We parked at the Visitor Centre on Sutton Bank, properly known as Roulston Scar.  When I spotted a sign- ‘The finest view in England’- my expectations were pretty high.  At the viewing platform binoculars were clasped in several hands, but the day was heavily overcast.  I admit, I was a little disappointed.  Still, you couldn’t fault the other half’s enterprise in bringing me here. Perhaps the clouds would lift?

Promising, but not spectacular?

Promising, but not spectacular?

Not destined to be my favourite

Not destined to be my favourite view

But there was a choice on the signposts

But there was a choice on the signposts

And so, the White Horse it was to be.  Sound more promising to you?  The trouble is, The White Horse is better seen from afar.  Never mind.  I’ll do my best!  In the meantime, I was approaching the glider station.  Surely there wouldn’t be much to see from up there on a day like today?

The sign is full of promise

The sign looks full of promise

And there was a glider at the ready

And there was a glider at the ready

Control tower ready?

Control tower also ready?

The sky was starting to clear a little

The sky was even beginning to clear a little

And the beauty revealed

Revealing the beauty of the countryside

The path is level and it’s just as well because you’re constantly stopping and gazing skyward. There’s a low drone as the plane tows the glider past you and in seconds they’re airborne. Soaring out over the cliffs, it’s a heart stopping moment as the plane leads the glider ever higher and then releases into a thermal or rising air current.

The plane whizzes past, towing the glider

The plane whizzes past, towing the glider

Clinging on, in search of a thermal

Clinging on, in search of a thermal

Freedom!  And a patch of blue

Then freedom! And a patch of blue sky!

Back at ground level, the path continues on.  The White Horse of Kilburn is not far away.  I’m not sure what kind of view of it I will have, as it lies on the cliff face below me.

This is an aerial view

The sign shows an aerial view

As half expected, it's easier to get a wild flower shot

As half expected, it’s easier to get a wild flower shot

Steps lead down the cliff to a car park far below.  I look back at my husband, who shrugs and turns to walk away.  I start down the steps in search of a better view.

This is the best I can do!

This is the best I can do!

There's a bench, thanks to Fred Banks

Or this bench, thanks to Fred Banks

And a lovely patch of heather

And a lovely patch of heather

Unless you want a long descent down the steps, and then an aching clamber back up, this will have to do for now.  You could, of course, be enterprising and drive to the car park below.  I’m sorry to tell you that we didn’t.  The clouds closed in again- that’s the nature of the moors- and it was time for a hasty retreat from a squall of rain.

But at least I'd had a glimpse of 'England's finest view'

But at least I’d had a glimpse of ‘England’s finest view’

And a little moorland heather

And a little moorland heather

I hope you enjoyed our walk?  This link to Wikipedia will give you a few more details of the whereabouts and geology of the horse, and the village of Sutton-under-Whitestonecliffe, where I remember a rather nice pub.

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I won’t be home till teatime today, but I’m hoping you will still have received this walk, which I scheduled.  Early or late, I’ll definitely be there. Once again, I have some wonderful shares for you. Many thanks to all of you who take part.

My first walk this week is very fittingly titled but, more importantly, it’s full of wonderful photos. Thank you so much, Meg.  This is beautiful!

Skyspace  

The Cardinal took us to Petra in Jordan, for the sunniest of smiles  :

Street Portrait

Paula knows us Scorpios don’t mind water, or even occasionally…

Getting Wet 

If you haven’t seen any of Amy’s photography lately, you’re missing a treat.  Goodbye Summer!  :

It’s last Beauty

Drake was back on Samsoe this week, with some Norwegian love  :

Vikings, potatoes and Norwegian love

Hands up those of you who’ve been to Odessa?  No- I thought not!  Jouena has a lovely share  :

Mosaic in Odessa

You can share a walk with me any day of the week.  The details are all in my logo.  Have a great week and happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Santa Luzia

The patron saint of the village

The patron saint of the village

I could wander around Santa Luzia all day and every day.  So many of the houses are clothed in beautiful azulejo tiles.  Just 2 km west of Tavira, this fishing village has an identity all of its own. Modern housing has been added, and a new seafront promenade since my first visit, more than 10 years ago.  Yet somehow this village is timeless and defies outsiders to change its true nature. Would you like to share it with me?  We’ll take just a slow walk today.  There’s plenty of time.

The waterfront is where I usually start

The waterfront is where I usually start

It's an easy place to spend time

It’s an easy place to spend time

The palm trees don’t provide much shade, but there are plenty of cafes lining the waterfront.  It’s a place where you could idle away many an hour, just watching and wondering.  Avenida Duarte Pacheco is the village’s main street and behind it there are only a handful of others. Getting lost really isn’t an option, but you’re welcome to try.

A typical house on Duarte Pacheco, next to a cafe

A typical house on Duarte Pacheco, next to a cafe

 

Isn't this just beautiful?

Isn’t this just beautiful?

I’m going to be a very lazy tour guide today and simply let you wander.  The details that appeal to each of us are different, aren’t they?  I think you should have time to choose where to linger.

The whole seems to me to blend together.  The locals go about their business, paying little heed to the tourists.  I always venture a smile and ‘Bom dia’ and without fail there is a response.

I’m going to be just a little naughty now.  You remember my fondness for boats?  For just 3 or 4 months in Summer a ferry runs from Santa Luzia across to the ilha, Tavira Island.  It’s only a 10 minute crossing, so just about time to get comfortable.  One of the nice things, though, is the opportunity it gives you to observe Santa Luzia from the water.  Would you like to see?  And if you’re full of energy, you can have a swift stride down the beach.  I’ll be right with you!

Not so bad, was it?  Just one last look at Santa Luzia and you’ll want to eat.  Casa do Polvo, at the eastern end of the front, is great if you’re an octopus fan.  On some evenings you can listen to fado there too, and even join in and sing a little if the fancy takes you.  Away from the front there are a number of small restaurants.  Most will feed you well.  It’s just a matter of taste.

I’m hoping you enjoyed this week’s walk.  Not too strenuous, was it?  And the Eastern Algarve is easy on the eye, I always think?

Next week will be an English walk and very different.  I’m going to my daughter’s in Nottingham next weekend and will be travelling back on the Monday.  I’m going to attempt to schedule a walk.  I’ve never done that before but am hoping it’s easy.  If all else fails, I will be home by teatime and will post the walk then.  Wish me luck!

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Wow!  What a week!  So many fantastic entries.  You’re definitely going to need a cuppa, or even two, to read your way through.  I’m off to put the kettle back on.  Thank you so much, everybody, for joining Jo’s Monday walk.  The details are in my logo.

I simply love Drake’s Beatles walk!  :

Let it be

The Botanical Garden in Zagreb is beautiful!  Thanks for sharing, Paula  :

Monday Walk in the Botanical Garden

And, in case you missed it, atmospheric castle ruins near Bratislava, also in Paula’s delightful company  :

A walk around Devin Castle 

Meg tackled a tricky one this week.  All in a good cause!  :

On Nerrigundah Ridge

My lovable friend Cathy is finding her way around Nanning in China.  Go and say ‘hi’ please?  :

A Monday morning walk on Campus

A water lily from Israel!  And incredibly beautiful, thanks, Cardinal  :

Water Lily Porn

Gardens!  Gardens!  And more lovely gardens!  Thanks, Jude  :

Garden Portrait : Westonbury Mill Water Gardens

Garden Portrait : Sezincote

Fabulous, aren’t they?  And wait till you see Amy’s playful walk beside the river!  :

Walking along the river

A town with less than 1000 residents but lots of history is Yvette’s contribution  :

A walk in Scotsville, VA

And from California, please give a warm welcome to Elena  :

Big Bear Lake

With a destination that keeps getting higher on my ‘must see’ list, Debbie’s sharing a real beauty! Treat yourself- say ‘hello’  :

Walking on Top of the World in Marseille

And in this topsy turvy world of ours, Pauline is  beautifully immersed in Spring.  Don’t miss it!

Totally immersed in the splendour of Spring

That’s it for now, folks.  Have a very splendid week and happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Ilha da Culatra

Shall we start with a ferry ride?

Shall we start with a ferry ride?

This week’s walk is on the island of Culatra, so you’ll have the added bonus of a ferry ride- always irresistible to me.  But for those of you who are poor sailors, let me assure you of gentle, calm waters.  I referred briefly to Culatra in my I is for Ilhas (islands) post and I thought it might be time to take a closer look. I think you might like it.

Departure points for the ilha are from the city of Faro, the Algarve’s capital, or from the nearby fishing town,  Olhão.  It’s a short 30 minute sailing from the latter.  The ferries depart at 9.00, 11.00, 15.00 and 17.00, so what are we waiting for?  Don’t forget your sunscreen, and flip-flops will be just fine for this trip.

Is this water flat enough for you?

Is this water flat enough for you?

There's always someone who likes to make waves!

There’s always someone who likes a little fun!

The first port of call

Here we are, at the first port of call already!

The ferry docks first at the eastern end of the island, with a busy little marina, the church and a couple of restaurants.  If you like you can get off here and walk along to Farol, but I like to stay on till the second stop, 10 minutes later.  As the ferry chugs alongside the island, the lighthouse for which the settlement is named looms larger.  Often your flight path into the Algarve will carry you over the islands and you have an aerial view of Farol.

Almost there...

Almost there…

Ok, so you’ve indulged me the watery stuff.  Thank you!  Now it’s time to stroll a little.  You’ve probably guessed what we’ll be going to see, haven’t you?

 

But eventually you come face to face!

But eventually you come face to face!

The lighthouse is situated on a rocky headland, above a small beach, crowded with locals on a weekend.  Continue past that and you have seemingly endless sand.  Off with those flip-flops and away you paddle!

A good situation?

A good situation?

After a while you will see a sign board pointing inland and a boardwalk.  This is your cue to put the flip-flops back on and follow it, over some low dunes.  You will see the first port where the ferry docked ahead in the distance.  Arguably the best bit of the walk starts now.  As you approach the village the path becomes lined with an array of beach houses and their gardens.  All shapes and colours are represented- some tasteful, others… well, let’s say interesting.

Now you’re back at the marina, with its host of little fishing vessels.  There are several small bars and restaurants where you can blend in with the locals while you await your return ferry.  The ticket office only opens 10 minutes before the boat is due, but you might well have bought a return- ide e volta.  The ferry will stop again at Farol so you can do this walk in either direction, or both ways if you’re keen!

 

The church is at this end of the island, too

The church is at this end of the island, too

Watched over by Our Lady of Fatima

Watched over by Our Lady of Fatima

Then it's farewell Culatra

Then it’s farewell to Culatra

And hello Olhao!

And hello Olhao!

I hope you didn’t mind the boat ride too much?  One of my favourite things about the Algarve is the number of ferry rides I can take. My husband rather meanly keeps count and sometimes I’m rationed!  There were 8 boat rides this visit. (that’s there and back, of course)

Many thanks for your time and your company.  Will you join me next week on a Monday walk? The details are on my walks page or just click on the logo below.

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Now for the good stuff!  Time to put the kettle on and read my ‘shares’.

I didn’t have Alesund on my ‘list’ till I saw this post.  I do now!  Thank you, Cardinal  :

The City Center of Alesund

Show me a walk by a river?  I’m hooked!  Thanks, Drake  :

Other side of the river

Pauline keeps revealing interesting facets of Canberra  :

Inner city chic : I’m loving Canberra

If you’re a lover of tranquility you can’t fail to love Amy’s garden  :

Portland Japanese Garden

You’ll love this walk with Jude too.  It’s on level ground for one thing!  :

Wild Rye

One last nostalgic stroll with Sylvia…  But, don’t worry- she’ll be back to visit family.  Here’s to new beginnings, Ad!  :

One last nostalgic walk before we leave this paradise

And now, meet Ana.  I’m sure she’s known to many of you and I’m so happy she has joined us this week  :

A guided history walk of Guildford

And last but never, ever least, Yvette is back!  Have you been to West Point, Virginia?  You’ll enjoy this visit.  :

West Point, VA

Thanks again to all my contributors.  Have a happy week!

Jo’s Monday walk : Captain Cook’s Monument

Captain James Cook on the village green at Great Ayton

Captain James Cook on the village green at Great Ayton

I still have Paris stories to tell and photos to share, but life moves on, doesn’t it?  Late Summer is the most beautiful time of year on the North York Moors and I’ve been there several times in the past few weeks.  I wish I’d had blue skies like the one above for this week’s walk, but we’ll have to settle for ‘head in the clouds’.

‘Where do you want to go?’ asked the long suffering other half, last Monday.  ‘Somewhere with heather.  Lots of heather!’ I replied.  And where do you find the most heather?  On the very tops of the Moors, of course.  So, strong legs needed this week, but I’m in the Algarve next week so you can all have a lovely rest.  Are you ready?  Come on, then!

This is our start point

This is our start point

I’m starting out from the free car park at Gribdale Gate, just beyond the village of Little Ayton. You have several choices from this point but they’re all in an upwards direction.

This is ours!

This is ours!

That's the target! The little spike above the tree line

That’s the target- the little spike above the tree line!

Always on the Moors you are aware of nature

Always on the Moors you are aware of nature

Beneath our feet the bracken fades

While beneath our feet the bracken fades

You're following a woodland trail and steadily you will gain height

You’re following a woodland trail and steadily you will gain height

There are occasional diversions on the edges of the path

With occasional diversions on the edges of the path

Your first reward- Roseberry Topping on the horizon

Your first reward- Roseberry Topping on the horizon

Roseberry Topping is an iconic landmark in these parts.  The combination of geological fault and a mining collapse in 1912 created its distinctive shape.  The link will take you to the National Trust website with lots of spectacular views.  Joe Cornish is one of my favourite photographers.

Looking back you can see the moorland trail you have followed

Looking back you can see the moorland trail you have followed

A memorial beside the path

A memorial beside the path

Ahead, the Monument

Ahead, the Monument

Captain Cook’s Monument is a 16 metre high obelisk, located on Easby Moor and visible for miles around.  It was constructed of local sandstone and has stood on this spot since 1827.  It bears an inscription celebrating Captain James Cook, who was born locally at Marton- “a man of nautical knowledge inferior to none”.

The heather stretches for miles

The heather stretches for miles

And miles!

And miles!

It is the most glorious sight at this time of year, and well worth the climb, which can be taken slowly, with frequent pauses to look back.  Many families with quite young children were making the pilgrimage, so how hard can it be?  I wasn’t so sure about this next activity though.

Getting the heart rate going is one thing, but.....

Getting the heart rate going is one thing, but…..

He made it- thank goodness!

He made it- thank goodness!

The Monument and Roseberry Topping in the same frame

The Monument and Roseberry Topping in the same frame

You can continue on across the Moors and down into Kildale in the next valley.  The total distance is only 2 and a half miles, but you would then have to make the return journey.  I was content to simply descend the hill, much more rapidly than my ascent!

There is a railway station at Little Ayton, on the Esk Valley Line, but I’m assuming you arrived by car.  It’s all downhill back to the main village of Great Ayton, where James Cook spent many of his boyhood years.  It’s a very attractive village, with the river running through it, and a good pub, the ‘Royal Oak’, on the village green.

You could visit Captain Cook’s Schoolroom Museum if you have the time.  I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t managed it yet.  I’d better make that a project for the winter.  I apologise for the sullen skies but the heather is only at it’s purple best for a few weeks.  As we drove home the sky began to clear, of course, and I leapt nimbly out of the car to frolic with the sheep.

He's giving me a very suspicious look!

He’s giving me a very suspicious look!

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As I mentioned at the start of this walk, I’m going to the Algarve today and won’t be around to post a walk next Monday.  I’ll be back the following one, 15th September, so if you have any walks you’d like to share, feel free to leave them in the Comments as usual.  I’ll feature them the following week.  Any doubts, click on my logo above.  It explains how I run Jo’s Monday walks. Till then, happy walking!  I’m off to put the kettle on and visit all these lovely people.

My first walk this week is from a lady you might not know?  Say ‘hello’ to Jill, at Jill’s Scene  :

Breckenridge, Minnesota

Drake takes us to lovely Ribe in Denmark, and climbs a tower, too!  Energetic, like me  :

Step back time

Amy has the BEST photo of a cross mother swan in this post  :

Zilker Park, Austin

I’ve always enjoyed ’tilting at windmills’.  Jude has the most beautiful one I’ve seen in a while  :

Tilting at Windmills

Some fabulous footage of the Azores from Cardinal Guzman, also joining us for the first time  :

Horta- Azorean Islands

Take care and ‘bye for now!

Jo’s Monday walk : the village of Giverny

Isn't this perfection?

Isn’t this perfection?

I took so many lovely images on my visit to the Monet garden in Giverny.  It was quite hard to leave.  But I had little idea of the other treats that lay in store for me in the village.  I thought that this Monday you might like to join me in a gentle stroll in the Normandy sunshine?  You won’t even need hiking boots!  Sound promising?

Shuttered windows peep from behind a Russian Vine covered hedge

Shuttered windows peep from behind a Russian Vine covered hedge

Claude Monet lived in the village of Giverny from 1883 to 1926 and there is no doubt that it has prospered hugely as a result of this. Still it remains a very charming place and it’s not difficult to see what drew Monet and his artist friends here.  There were only 300 people living in the village when Monet first spotted it from the window of a passing train and decided he wanted to live there.  Today Rue Claude Monet is the principal street of the village.

A legend among the ivy

A legend among the ivy

Normally I save food for the end of my walks but you may remember that I’d already travelled from Paris and spent a couple of hours at the Monet garden.  The Musee des Impressionismes has a very pleasant restaurant and gardens and is just a few steps further along Rue Claude Monet. We had a combined ticket with Monet’s garden, saving a few euros, but you didn’t need to enter the museum to eat in their restaurant, or to see the garden.

Of course, we had to check out the paintings too, and then it was time to venture into the village. We wandered along, admiring the shuttered windows. They looked so French!

 

This artists gallery beckoned me inside

This artist’s gallery beckoned me inside

I stopped a little further along Rue de Claude Monet to peer inside a gallery.  “Come in, come in” beamed the proprietor (in French, of course), patting his head to indicate that I should keep mine low.  I would have loved to start snapping the sea of canvases in the tiny space, but it didn’t seem polite.  I had the impression that we could have become lifelong friends and that I’d take breakfast in the cafe next door.  Fortunately I was rescued by another customer descending the steps, and the ‘patting of head routine’.  A true show of French gallantry.

‘Le Coin des Artistes’ at no. 65 was first a grocery store, then a cafe-bar in Monet’s time, and is now a smart looking bed and breakfast. At no. 81, Hotel Baudy has been recently restored and was also a popular meeting place for artists . A few steps further, Eglise Sainte Radegonde dates from the Middle Ages and is the burial place of Monet and many of his family.

The village is long and slim and at the end you can turn down to Chemin du Roy to complete a circuit back to your beginnings.  I was much taken with the narrow interconnecting lanes, which reminded me a little of the Wynds in Yorkshire.  Following my nose led to Rue du Milieu (Middle St.) looking over garden walls as I go.  I do like to be nosy!

The prettiest of my 'Wynds'

The prettiest of my ‘Wynds’

Giverny lies on La Route Normandie Vexin, midway between Rouen and Paris, in the midst of chateau territory.  With the Seine on its doorstep, boat trips are also an option.  I took great delight in this village, which offered me far more than I had expected.  I hope you found it a lovely place to ramble, too.  Indulge me with a last few shots from the Monet garden?

What can you say?

What can you say?

 

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I enjoyed my time in France so much!  There may still be a post or two to come but I think that next week’s Monday walk will be back in the UK.  I try to keep them seasonal and the Yorkshire Moors are in full bloom at the moment.  I do hope that you’ll join me but I will have limited time to respond to you as I’ll be back in the Algarve by Monday evening.

There won’t be a Monday walk on 8th September, but I’ll remind you about that next week. Meanwhile, are you ready for a good read?

I think most of you will find Drake’s style much more relaxing than mine  :

Few steps, large atmosphere

While Paula shows us exquisite beauty in Istria  :

Macabre Fresco

I took the hint this week- no steps to  climb!  Here’s a lovely flat walk from Jude  :

A walk along the Dee

Does fun in the sun in Texas appeal?  It will if you join Amy!  :

Lake, river and trails in Austin

Or come and have a hug, and a little history, with Sue’s Mum  :

Canada’s Battle of Batoche-Louis Riel’s last stand

Finally a walk recommended to me by my dear friend Meg.  Have you been to Ethiopia?  :

Walkabout to the Blue Nile Falls

That’s it till next week.  Happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Discovering Montmartre

Where else but the Moulin Rouge?

Where else but the Moulin Rouge?

Whenever I visit a new city I like to take a guided walk with a local.  You might remember that in Barcelona I accompanied Aleksandra on an eye-opening tour of the old side.  Paris was no exception.

A couple of my blogging friends are Paris experts and Lucy at On the Luce has a great post on which I spotted Discover Walks.  I was tempted by several of the choices, and so it was that, last Monday, I met Olivier.  A personable and very charming 20 year old, I knew at the outset that I was going to enjoy my walk.  And it was free, apart from a tip!

We met outside Blanche Metro station, at Place Pigalle, looking directly at that Paris icon, the Moulin Rouge.  There was quite a big group of us.  Why don’t you tag along?  I promise not to give away the best stories.  You’ll have to join Olivier for those.  I should warn you that this area is very steep, but we’ll take it slowly and pause to admire the views.

With all of Paris at your feet!

With all of Paris at our feet!

We started off up Rue Lepic- a street full of shops and locals.  It was tempting to linger over some of the pastries on display, but I hoped there would be time for them later.  For now, I wanted to absorb all that Montmartre has to offer.  Originally a village, outside of the city walls, the name Montmartre derives from martyrs who once were tortured and died on this hill.  Despite being incorporated into the city of Paris in 1860, Montmartre retains a strong identity and almost a village feeling.  It’s a community to which you would love to belong.

Olivier carried with him a satchel full of goodies and it wasn’t long before he was delving in. Outside Bateau-Lavoir, on tiny Place Emile-Goudeau, he produced a copy of a painting.  In this former piano factory, in 1907, Picasso painted his Cubist ‘Les Demoiselles d’Avignon’; a portrayal of 5 naked prostitutes, outrageous for its time.  No longer is there evidence of the squalid conditions he and his compatriots lived in, as the building has since burned down.  A replica currently marks the spot.

The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)

The facade of Le Bateau-Lavoir (laundry boat)

Artists and their haunts abound in Montmartre.  Dalida was unlucky in love.  After the suicides of three of her lovers she finally committed suicide herself.  A beautiful home isn’t everything, is it?

Around the corner another copy of a painting emerged from Olivier’s satchel.  Enthralled I looked at the windmills Van Gogh had painted, in their surrounding fields.  His countryside setting was nothing like that before me.  Once Montmartre had more than 30 windmills, used for grinding wheat and pressing grapes.  Now just two remain.  At the junction of rues Lepic and Tholoze, Moulin de la Galette is one of them.  A Michelin starred restaurant, it’s definitely a sign of the times.

Later, in the Musee d’Orsay, I was to stare wide-eyed at Renoir’s immortalisation of the windmill in ‘Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette’, so beautiful in closeup.  I can only manage a photograph.

A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views

A seat on the terrace should give you the nicest views

Our next introduction was to a gentleman by the name of Marcel Aymé.  Have you heard of ‘The Man who walked through walls’?  No, neither had I, but there he was, protruding from the wall!  I gather that he haunts Rue Norvins by night- a good reason not to loiter.

Olivier with Dutilleul, the 'hero' of the book

Olivier with Dutilleul, the ‘hero’ of the book

A look at the Montmartre vineyard was to follow, but with strict instructions not to buy the product.  Pollution levels in Paris are apparently not conducive to producing fine wine.

The Montmartre vineyard

The Montmartre vineyard- it’s green enough, isn’t it?

And down the hill, Lapin Agile

And down the hill,  ‘Au Lapin Agile’- the nimble rabbit- a cabaret spot

It’s a green and leafy space where you can hear the birds sing.  It’s not until you start to approach the monumental church that things begin to get busy.  I could happily wander these quiet back streets but inevitably you are drawn to Place du Tertre, where all of life spills over.

Not for us the crush of the main square.  We pass through peaceful gardens and emerge behind Sacre Coeur, where Olivier shares a final few tips and bids us ‘adieu’.  A job well done!  Merci!

Gazing on the Sacre Couer

Sacre Coeur from the gardens at the rear

You know where I’m going next, don’t you?  But first let’s have a quick peek at Place du Tertre.

Too many people for me!  I’m heading right for the top.  I figure with all that practise up four flights of stairs to our apartment, 300 steps will be a piece of cake?

 

The church first, but I wasn't allowed to take photos

The church doorway, but I wasn’t allowed to take photos inside

Are you worn out now?  You didn’t have to climb all those steps with me!  My legs are a bit jelly, too.  I hope you enjoyed my Paris walk.  Back down is simple.  Just meander!  Many thanks to Olivier for his delightful assistance.

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I turned my back for 5 minutes this week and you walkers took off at a pace!  Please make some time to read these.  There are some superb walks here.  Put your feet up and enjoy! (and then start walking)  Click on my Monday walks logo to find out more.

Drake?  Well, he was at a quarry  :

Secluded works of art

And Jude was in her beloved Cornwall  :

Capturing Cornwall

Madhu made me sad with her wistful haveli photos  :

Lucknow- a walk in the Chowk

And Pauline introduced me to a pretty section of Canberra  :

Canberra Lakeside walk

While Amy was out chasing beautiful butterflies  :

Trail walking

The definitive London walk- you won’t want to miss it!  :

A glorious Summer’s day in London

And by way of complete contrast, Sue has us dangling in wide open spaces  :

Grassi Lakes- the Canmore jewels

Not quite so reckless but another lover of the great outdoors, join Suzan on a bear adventure  :

Close encounters of the Bear kind

Right back to London, Laura shows us a side that tourists seldom see  :

Walkabout 3- the Branch Line

I thought I was eating choux pastry with Jude.  It must have been those steps!

New Abbey Buildings

And finally my lovely Viveka in Vienna.  You will never have taken a finer tour!  :

Felt like a local

Happy walking all!  See you next week.

Jo’s Monday walk : to Infinity and beyond!

Just a hint of blue sky through the Infinity Bridge

Just a hint of blue sky through the Infinity Bridge

One of the hardest things about my Monday walks is deciding where to take you next.  I have easy access to both coast and countryside where I live in the north east of England.  Add in a healthy dose of curiosity and restlessness and the sky’s the limit!

Last week’s visit to the Glass Centre is a hard act to follow, but I’m going to take you a little way south of me today, to the River Tees. The lovely curves of the Infinity Bridge have added grace and beauty to another quite industrial part of my world.  This weekend the Stockton Riverside Festival was taking place.  I hope a deluge or two didn’t dampen the enthusiasm for the music.

Our start point will be the parking lot behind the White Water Centre.  We’ve walked around the Tees Barrage before but this time we’ll be heading towards Stockton-on-Tees.

The White Water Centre and cafe

The White Water Centre, and cafe

There are usually canoes taking to the water

There are usually canoes taking to the water.  Tees Barrage is in the distance

Walk towards the Infinity Bridge

Walk towards the Infinity Bridge

And underneath!  Don't worry- we'll come back to it.

And underneath! Don’t worry- we’ll come back to it.

It’s a popular cycle track too, so you’ll need to be alert.  Some cyclists sound their bell in warning, but more often they just loom up.  You don’t want to drop your camera!

Stockton is an Anglo-Saxon name, the ending ‘ton’ meaning farm or homestead.  There is little in the way of agriculture to be seen on this stretch of the River Tees.  The town used to have a thriving outdoor market where fresh produce was readily and cheaply available.   The life and character that this brought has sadly vanished.

Stockton’s main claim to fame is tied to the advent of steam travel in 1822.  The first rail of George Stephenson’s Stockton and Darlington Railway was laid locally, on Bridge Rd.  Stephenson drove Locomotion no.1 himself on its first journey, on 27th September 1825.  In recent years the riverside has been developed to make a focal point for the town.

George Stephenson's Locomotion

A tribute to George Stephenson’s Locomotion no.1

The riverside and Teesside Millenium Bridge

The riverside and Teesquay Millenium Footbridge

Have you spotted something beyond the bridge?  Something with tall masts?  My main reason for walking this way, and one of my favourite things.  Wait just a moment.

First we need to pass beneath the bridge

First we need to pass beneath the bridge

And here we have it!

And here we have it!

Isn't she a beauty?

Isn’t she a beauty?

Here's a small clue

Here’s a small clue

I love these tall masted beauties!

I love these tall masted beauties!

James Cook was a local lad and is widely feted in this part of the world.  HM Bark Endeavour took him on the first of three voyages of discovery in the Pacific Ocean.  He sailed thousands of miles of largely uncharted waters, mapping New Zealand, Australia and Hawaii for the British Navy.  He died in Hawaii in 1779, leaving behind a huge legacy of scientific and geographical knowledge.

HMS Bark Endeavour has the company of some smaller craft

HMS Bark Endeavour has the company of some smaller craft

And a whole load of swans!

And a whole load of swans!

So hard to resist boat shots!

So hard to resist boat shots!

Not so sure about the mural

There’s a mural disguising the multi-storey car park

But now it's time to cross over the bridge

But now it’s time to cross over the Millenium bridge

Looking back at the boats and Thornaby railway bridge

Looking back- the Princess river cruiser and Thornaby railway bridge

Those clouds are still lurking!

While the clouds lurk overhead!

We’re heading back towards the Infinity Bridge.  On the far shore of the Tees there are numerous office complexes and we thread our way through them, passing poorly maintained canals.

Under bridges and over bridges

Under bridges and over bridges

And here we are again

Till we burst into the light again!

You could play with the angles all day

You could play with the angles all day

But look behind you.  A storm's a-brewing!

But look behind you. A storm’s a-brewing!

One last look to the heavens

One last look to the heavens

And it's time to quickly cross!

And it’s time to quickly cross!

You know your way back from here, don’t you, and it’s not far.  Maybe a coffee in the White Water Centre, or there’s a pub along at the Tees Barrage.  The easiest access is undoubtedly by car, but you could do the walk from Stockton, which is well served by buses and trains.

I’m not going to be walking with you next week.  I hope to be on a different riverbank- the Seine. I could schedule a walk but I prefer not to.  The joy in my Monday feature comes from sharing, and responding to your lovely comments, and I won’t have time to do that in Paris.  Feel free to explore a little without me, but report back, won’t you?

Two more things before I go.  I noticed that my friend Marianne, from East of Malaga, is featuring Bridges in her CBBH challenge this month.  We’ve been friends for the longest time but I seldom have time to visit.  I’m hoping she won’t mind if I include a link to my walk this week.  It certainly features bridges, doesn’t it?  A condition of the CBBH challenge is to introduce 2 of your friends to Marianne.  I will certainly do that with my links below.

Speaking of friends, and I’ve made so many of you on here, I know that I will be walking in the footsteps of Christine at least some of the time next week.  I couldn’t go without one last tribute.

 

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I hope you’ll find some time to visit my lovely walking friends now.  Put that kettle on!

Jude has found me a mill and a lovely public garden in Gatehouse of Fleet   :

The Gatehouse of Fleet

The Travel Bunny, Suzanne, has gelato on her mind.  It must be the weather!  :

Pisa- Much more than a Leaning Tower

Drake found some long haired cattle to walk with us this week.  He always has fun!  :

On the West  (not the Wild West!)

It will be very tempting to sit down on Amy’s walk this week, but you might need a cushion  :

Spanish tiles

That’s it for now!  See you in two weeks time.  Happy walking!