Jo’s Monday walk

Jo’s Monday walk : Lumiere 2015

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Are you ready for a little evening stroll?  I can’t promise you moonlight, but I think you will still enjoy the sights we’re going to see.  I’m taking you to the historic city of Durham, where Lumiere 2015 has been lighting the streets with enchantment.  This is the 4th event of its kind to take place here, and it attracts an international crowd.

I have my map in hand, and I’m starting off with light installation no. 1, but I may well deviate from the route shown in the programme.  There are so many distractions!  I’m on Framwellgate Waterside, beside the River Wear, which winds through the centre of the city.  Cloud, the work of a Canadian pair, is an interactive sculpture built from 6000 light bulbs.  Tugging on one of the dangling switches turns them on and off.  Rapt faces glow with pleasure as they look upwards and smile.

IMG_0583Behind me, flying the flag for the USA and swirling in the breeze like a merry kite, 1.26 Durham, installation no.2, is vying for my attention.  Such was the strength of the 2010 Chilean earthquake’s vibrations that it momentarily sped up the earth’s rotation and shortened the day by 1.26 microseconds.  Data sourced from NASA was used to turn this phenomenon into a 3D image, the basis for this sculpture.  Strong but delicate, it asks us to consider the interconnectedness of our world.  A specially designed app was created by a local company to enable you to change the light projected.  How amazing is that?  Far beyond me, I’m afraid.

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It billowed about gleefully and I scarcely noticed the rain that was beginning to fall.  Not a good time for sitting on benches, but no. 4 in the programme, a German installation called Lightbench offered one in lilac and one in electric green.

Not a soul in sight!

Not a soul in sight!

Where is no. 3 you might be asking?  Over Milburngate Bridge and dangling on the side of a building, Big Knitting is a UK entry for which drain pipes had to be utilised as jumbo knitting needles.  Ever heard of ‘magic’ knitting?

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Through Market Place and around the Castle and Cathedral a directional flow was in operation to control the crowds, but there was nothing to stop you lingering to admire a French entry, Les Lumineoles.  The gracefully gliding fish were one of my favourite installations.

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I managed to capture a video of these sinuous and wonderful creatures, but alas, I can only display it sideways!  Lesson learnt for next time I use my phone camera?  Perhaps!  A short walk from here, across Elvet Bridge, you will find The Red House, created by France. The Old Shire Hall has been illuminated in warm shades of orange and yellow, with rainbow windows.  A pretty red brick building by day, at night it radiates colour.

Silver St. was all aglow with lanterns, but my next destination was Fowler’s Yard, where I hoped to see something rather special.

I first heard about Stu Langley’s Wave a few months ago when he contacted my husband for assistance in bringing his project to fruition. A giant wave, fully clad in sea glass, was designed by Stu as a tribute to East Durham’s industrial heritage.  Seaham, on the north east coast, was once home to Europe’s largest glass bottle works.  Waste from this was dumped into the sea, and continues to be washed ashore today in the form of sea glass. An artist who works in stained glass, Stu was enormously enthusiastic about his project, and the involvement of the local community.  Soon we too were gathering sea glass to cover this 2.9 metre high wave.

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The sea glass had to be affixed to the wave by hand.  Definitely a labour of love.  Stu was standing there proudly beside ‘his baby’ when we arrived. He was so pleased that Seaham are interested in buying his creation for display after Lumiere. One more step in the regeneration of this former mining area, which suffered large scale unemployment with the closure of the pits.  Stu has another installation on display in North Rd.- Wheels of Industry, a Robin Reliant with themed stained glass windows.  Sadly, in all the excitement, we didn’t get to see it.

The lanterns lure us on towards Palace Green and the Cathedral, not quite sure what to expect.  The previous two Lumiere’s had featured the Lindisfarne Gospels, marching with great drama across the front face of the cathedral.   This year the son et lumiere was to be The World Machine – the story of the birth of modern cosmology from 12th century until the present day, and a collaboration of UK and Mexico.  I really can’t do it justice with photographs,  but there is a short video at the end of my post to give you a better idea.

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Let’s continue into the cathedral itself.  Complex Meshes is another French installation, clinging colourfully to the ribbed vaulted arches, whilst music floods the vast space.  This was an opportunity to take a seat, and simply wonder.  IMG_0675

The cloisters , for me, are one of the cathedral’s most beautiful features.  I was spellbound by them during Lumiere 2013, but this year it was my husband’s turn to get excited.  Litre of Light is a replica of the cathedral’s own rose window, made from thousands of plastic bottles.

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Leaving the cathedral, further delight awaits.  Garden of Light, another French installation, brings a hint of fantasy.  Giant illuminated plants bring a tropical vibe to a wintry English November.  Smiling faces abound, and selfies too!

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From this garden of delight, you are directed down to the river bank.  At Prebend’s Bridge you find Rainbow River, a prism casting coloured patterns over the Wear.  Crossing to the far shore the path rises quite steeply and you are treated to a view across to the cathedral.

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20151113_222637Just for Lumiere, fog swirls mysteriously above the river, rising through the woods .  Fogscape #03238 is a collaboration of the UK and Japan, conjuring up the spirit of St. Cuthbert in the mists.

South St. takes you past some lovely old Durham houses and back to the centre.  There are other installations in the surrounding area if time and your tired legs permit.  When I passed by Elvet Bridge early in my walk the crowds were quite dense, and so I came to miss one of the stars of the show, Mysticete by France.  This company was responsible for Elephantastic in Lumiere 2013 and amazed all of Durham.  Unfortunately the last showing was at 10.45, and unaware of this I barely managed to see the flip of the whale’s tail from the riverbank.

Durham can be subject to flooding and on the last night Mysticete had to be cancelled due to rising water levels.  I do recommend that you watch this short video, which brings to life all the 3D effects and drama that I cannot hope to replicate.

What more to say other than ‘hope you enjoyed the show’?  Terrible to think that, whilst I was there, horrific events were unfolding in Paris.  The last couple of days have been harrowing.  I would like to end on a positive note though.  The future looks bright for young Stu Langley.  He will be featured on the “One Show” in early December.

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That’s it for another week.  I’m exhausted, aren’t you?  But exhilarated too.  Please find time to visit all these wonderful walks I have to share, and huge thanks to all my contributors.  If you’d like to join me with a walk, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page. The logo takes you there.  I will not be posting walks for the next two weeks however, as I take myself off to the Algarve.  Kettle on and here we go!

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Gilly has out-bedazzled  all of us with her Autumn scenes this week.  Don’t miss!

A Stourhead Stroll

Elaine found a few leaves to kick too, and a companion!

Wendover Woods

Why not share a few beautiful moments with Drake, at St. Pancras :

Started with a kiss

Back to the South of France, where Phoebe finds some leaves in the loveliest setting :

A (short) walk for all seasons

An upbeat neighbourhood stroll next, with Amy for company :

Monday Walk : SoCo, Austin

What do trees and the Spanish Armada have in common?  Visit Jude to find out!

Ancient trees and the Spanish Armada

And you can never have too much of a good thing, can you?  Jude’s other blog :

Garden Portrait : Croft Castle Walled Garden

Jackie finds some more interesting spots to show us :

Monday’s Walk- Toronto

From Toronto to Montreal seems a natural progression, doesn’t it?

Four Cities and an Island… Montreal

In Tasmania, Ruth finds us ‘another’ Richmond :

The oldest bridge in Australia

Join the energy debate with Anabel!  Do you like wind turbines?

A walk at Whitelee

I always like a touch of the exotic.  You’ll never believe what Kaz found me for ‘lunch’ :

Summit Gardens, Vanuatu

Here we go, scaling the heights again, in Snowdonia!

Flashback Walks : Tryfan 15/11/2014

Pauline is briefly home, with some more deliciousness in tow :

New Zealand Highlights

And lovely Lisa is enjoying all that Sydney has to offer :

Bondi Beach and Sculpture by the Sea

Still Down Under, I meet a Queen’s Tree, in Perth :

A Walk in the Park

That’s it for now.  Once again my thanks to everybody.  I don’t leave until next weekend so I will still be scurrying about visiting you all till then.  In the Algarve I switch off from the world.  Take good care of yourselves, please.

Jo’s Monday walk : Aira Force

Beautiful Aira Force

Beautiful Aira Force

You have no idea how delighted I was to be able to visit Aira Force!  The forecast wasn’t great and, as we approached the English Lake District, a swirl of damp cloaked the mountains.  But a waterfall’s no good without the water, is it?  And in Autumn, the canopy of leaves radiates!  Driving through a tunnel of flame and gold, the senses are filled with wonder.

I had planned to walk to the falls from the nearby village of Glenridding, our base for the evening, but the road south from Pooley Bridge bypassed them.  Carpe diem had never seemed so appropriate.  A pocket of opportunity, as the drizzle ceased momentarily.

The National Trust car park

The National Trust car park

The car park was not as deserted as I might have expected, though the picnic tables were definitely unoccupied.  There were just enough people to exchange smiles with, in a ‘good to be alive’ sort of way.  A celebration of our good fortune.

Those coins get everywhere!

Those coins get everywhere!

Treading carefully on the damp leaves underfoot, I could hear already the gurgle of water.  The stream chuckled merrily on its way to the lake.  Not far to go!  But for me, it was upwards by a series of steps, pausing often to admire my beautiful surroundings.

Onwards and upwards!

Onwards and upwards!

I was eager for my first sighting of the waterfall.  Suddenly, through the trees, I caught a glimpse of its magnificense.

It looked wonderful!

So alluring!

Just a little more bracken

But first a little more bracken

And a few steps

And a few more steps

Beneath the bridge

And we’ve reached the bridge

The sound of rushing water has reached a crescendo.  Steps lead down to the bridge and I cannot stop myself from descending.  I lean over and gaze in worshipful awe.  From beneath me, the falls tear away to join the calm of the lake.

The falls tear away to the lake from beneath me

Leaping joyfully down to Ullswater

Leaving the lower bridge behind, I head on up to the top of the falls, the water my constant companion.  That and the moss and leaves. It’s possible to continue up to Gowbarrow Fell and the trig point for views all along the lake, but on a murky day like this the visibility would be poor.  And I’m so loath to leave the water behind.

My constant companion

My constant companion

And always the water

Chirruping water

And my other companion

And my other companion

The air feels increasingly damp and we decide to retrace our steps and cross over the upper bridge.  The descent on the other side of the falls is down yet more steps, but they are well spaced, and not too slippy in stout shoes.

We can now look back at the full 65 foot height of the falls, which I found very difficult to photograph.  My little camera has its limits, and I most certainly do.  I have too much ‘white light’ in the shot.  I tried different angles but it didn’t help.  I’m sorry!

But I was much taken with this aged log

But I was much taken with this aged log

A certain person was getting rather impatient.  I suspect you might be ready for a seat somewhere too.  I spotted a lovely one but it was a bit damp.

What do you think?

What do you think?

He's wondering when we're going to get to cake!

He’s wondering when we’re going to get to cake!

I think we’ve had enough exercise, don’t you?  I hope you enjoyed it, despite all those steps.  This link will give you clearer guidance on how to negotiate the various paths, and National Trust can help you to get here.

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Many thanks to so many of you who have again contributed to making my Monday walks a great place to be.  Shall we get the kettle on, ready for a good read?  If you’d like to join me you’ll be made very welcome.  Full details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.

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Introducing Phoebe, in the lovely South of France, with not a drop of rain in sight.  Please say hello :

Coast Walk : the Cap d’Antibes

Tobermory says Scotland to me, but this one’s equally beautiful.  Thanks, Violet Sky!

Tobermory

Sounds like a good book?  And you’ll enjoy Anabel’s company, in Scotland!

Two Towers

Amy has something pretty spectacular for you this week :

Monday Walk : Cascade Caverns

The cutest giraffes!  Thanks for taking us to the zoo, Jackie  :

The Living Desert, Palm Springs CA

Photos do not come any more beautiful than this first one!  Many thanks, Lucile :

Sally D’s Mobile Photography Challenge : Nature

Jesh always has an interesting take on life.  And there’s an apple cake recipe too!

Apple Hill

I know you’ll all be waiting for Part 2 of Rotterdam.  I was!  Bring on the windmills, Elena!

Rotterdam in a Day (part 2)

Denzil finds some strange things in the Belgian countryside :

Outrelouxhe : Just because… I like the name

If you’re seeking entertainment you can’t do better than join Badfish!

Treats and Tricks in Oman

And as I’ve pointed out before, Tobias has a very different take on life :

Pezenas

Wonderful variety again this week so thank you all very much.  It’s going to be a wild one, I think, so hang onto your hats!  Have a happy one and I’ll see you all soon.

Jo’s Monday walk : Following mountain goats!

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Now don’t be too alarmed!  It’s not as bad as it seems, and if you really don’t have a head for heights- well, you can tak’ the low road, and I’ll tak’ the high road.  To be completely truthful, I was out of my comfort zone for a short while, but we can blame the partner for that (and he’s not here to defend himself).

The area along the River Guadiana is wonderfully peaceful at most times of the year.  In places the road stays quite close to the river, making for a lovely scenic drive.  But, of course, you have to get out of the car to admire the scenery properly.  You never know quite what you’ll find.  Parking alongside the tiny village of Laranjeiras, our first discovery was the ruins of a Roman villa.  Not a lot to see, but the remains appear to date back to the 7th century.

Strolling into the village, life seemed to centre around a little riverside cafe, from which you could watch the occasional boat mooring at the jetty.  A couple of youngsters indulged in that age old pastime of skimming stones.  Entertainment for me presented itself in the form of a boatman, with a delivery of tarpaulin for the little boatyard.  His antics, trying to find a convenient space to offload his cargo in the minute space, kept me happy.

The moorings at Laranjeiras

The moorings at Laranjeiras

Never content to sit for too long, I had a mooch about while Michael consulted the map.  A path seemed to lead up the hillside and run parallel to the river before dipping back down at the next village, Guerreiros do Rio.  Gamely, we set off.

But not before I had admired this 'Maypole' in the village

But not before I had admired this sign of celebration in the village

And soon we're out of the village looking down

And then we climbed out of the village, and looked down

There wasn’t much sign of the path and it was a bit of a scramble.  Stopping to catch breath, we heard a tinkling sound, and suddenly two dogs burst out of the scrub.  They darted to and fro, rustling between them a magnificent herd of goats.  Sighting us, the creatures pressed on, with nervous sidewards glances.  The goatherd gave us a nod, a third dog rounded up the stragglers, and the pack headed for home.  Happy to have found a proper path, we followed them.

Keep moving boys- they're watching us!

Keep moving boys- they’re watching us!

The trail rolled off across the hills, but we were quite happy to take a branch that led back down to the riverside.  Enough of adventure!

All was calm down on the riverbank

All was calm, down by the river

It looks dry, doesn’t it?  It had been a long, hot Summer and was still very warm in early September.  Just around the bend we reached the next village, Guerreiro do Rios.  Time for a drink!  As usual, I left Michael sitting in the shade, while I went off to explore the back streets.

When I returned, one of those village cats had attached itself to Michael and was greedily begging the ham from his toastie.  Good job he didn’t have the tuna kebabs he’d been fancying!  Strangely, the cat was not at all interested in my glass of delicious white.  I didn’t have time to hang about because I had discovered that the Museu do Rio was open! (the link is in Portuguese but you can translate it if you like)

We had passed the sign before, but never gone into this small museum, tucked away from the road.  Here was my opportunity!

And interactive displays too

There were interactive displays

Telling the history of life on the river

Telling the history of life on the river

A lot has been achieved in the space available.  I chatted to the nice young lady at the till, who sold me a ticket for 1.50 euro.  This was also valid for admission to the castle at Alcoutim, a few miles up the road.  A bargain, I thought!  The museum is open daily except Mondays.

For us it was time to amble back along the riverbank, occasionally stopping to admire passing craft.

Back to our start point

Back at our start point

The tiny harbour at Laranjeiras

The tiny harbour at Laranjeiras

I hope you enjoyed our little Algarve adventure.  It’s quite easy to just walk along the road and back between the two villages, if you don’t want to go following goats.  It’s not a busy road.  The riverside junction leading south from Alcoutim is the easiest way to find the villages.

Don’t let anybody tell you that the Algarve is just a strip of boring beaches, will you?  Not in my experience, anyway.

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And now it’s time to turn our attention to other people’s walks.  Thank you so much to all my contributors.  You take me to places I might never reach on my own.  Anyone is welcome to join in, and it’s very straightforward.   My Jo’s Monday walk page has all the details.  Just click on the logo above.   Let’s put the kettle on and settle in for a good read, shall we?

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Benches actually have several uses in Anabel’s world.  Highly useful on a walk!

Balloch benches

Fancy taking the train?  Let’s go to Montreux with Drake!  No regrets, I promise :

Heaven for everyone

I gather there has been lots of rain in Texas, but Amy’s found some sunshine :

Monday Walk : Texas Countryside (Part 2)

A lady I’d never heard of next, but an interesting post from Jackie, in Canada :

Laura Secord

Demonstrating her versatility, Violet Sky finds us some very scenic caves!

Seeing the caves

So many lovely things to discover in Tasmania, thanks to Ruth :

Taroona Coastal Path

I need to pull my socks up!  I haven’t even made it to Amsterdam yet, and here’s Rotterdam looking so beautiful!

Rotterdam in a Day (part 1)

We’re joined this week by Fifi and Hop- isn’t that a great name?  Please go and say ‘hi’ to Corey!

Walkway over the Hudson : World’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge

Indra at Trav Trails certainly covers some ground.  Can you keep up?

Four Cities and an Island

Geoff’s Dog has had a poorly paw, so we might have to slow down a bit on this one :

The Capital Ring- Highgate to Stoke Newington

‘Do you want this walk’, asked Meg?  You HAVE to be joking!  Wait till you see it!

Eurobodalla beaches : Bingie Beach North

Come and sing some Bruce Springfield with me?  I love this song!  Thanks, Kaz :

Travel Album : Philadelphia 

Nearer home, I don’t think I’ve been to Anglesey!  Have you?  Looking good!

Flashback Walks : Holyhead Mountain

And it’s simply impossible not to enjoy one of Tish’s posts!  Look and learn!

It’s a wonderful world

As Jaspa demonstrates, on his trip to South America :

Cartagena, Columbia : UNESCO World Heritage Site

But you don’t have to go past Worcestershire for beauty- or pretty much anywhere on Jude’s blog!

Garden Portrait : Arley Arboretum

Aren’t they a fantastic selection?  Thank you very much everybody!  I’m off to the Lake District on Thursday, celebrating another birthday, so hopefully I’ll have an English walk for you next week.  Have a great time till then!  Monday Escapes is on again this week if you’d like to join in.

Jo’s Monday walk : Thorp Perrow

The magical colours of Autumn

The magical colours of Autumn

It lasts for such a short time!  Already the Virginia Creeper, whose rosy hue adorns my wall in Autumn, is strewn across our drive and whistling off down the road.  So I’m glad that I made it to Thorp Perrow Arboretum when I did.  100 acres of woodland are surely enough in which to worship Autumn colour.  And you can take your eyes off that tearoom!  That’s for much later,

Let's get delicious with the daisies first!

Let’s get delicious with the daisies first!

Over a little stream and the colour is already beckoning

Over a little stream and the colour is already beckoning

But close at hand there are jewels to distract

But close at hand, there are jewels aplenty

As always, I hand the map to the other half, and set off to follow my nose.  Or, in this case, a lovely little stream which wends its way through the woods.  Signs promise ‘Henry’s Island’ and ‘Kate’s Island’.  Will I be allowed?

A plopping sound stops me suddenly.  From overhead something lands in the water, sending concentric rings dancing to shore.  High in the canopy, a mischievous squirrel is dispensing acorns for our entertainment.

Sunlight dances in the woods

Sunlight dances in the woods

And radiates from the leaves

Beaming from bronzed leaves

And then the lake, in all it's glory

And then the lake, in all it’s glory

It's a 'hold your breath' moment

It’s a ‘hold your breath’ moment

Just the lake and the leaves

Just the lake, and the leaves

The history of Thorp Perrow can be traced back to the Domesday Book, where it was listed as ‘Torp’ manor house.  The trees came much later. Planting began in the 16th and 17th centuries, and in the 1840’s the Milbank Pinetum was planted with seed brought over from America.  There are now 5 National Collections of trees (Juglans-Walnuts, Tilia-Limes, Fraxinus-Ash, Cotinus and Laburnum) and 66 Champion Trees (the largest of their kind in Britain).

But it’s not at all a stuffy place!  A sense of humour manifests itself in many forms.

See the shark's fin in the water?

See the shark’s fin in the water?

Throughout this month the children have been treated (or tricked!) with a collection of spectres and ghouls lurking in the woods. Eek!!!

Just hanging about

Just hanging about

Or sitting patiently on a bench, for Jude

Or sitting patiently on a bench, waiting for Jude

There is also a growing Wildlife Park, where you can ‘meet the meerkat’, watch bizarrely plumed fowl strutting their stuff, and gasp at the exploits of the birds of prey.  The flying displays are one of the park’s most popular features, and are well worth seeing.  I’ll let you discover them for yourself. For me the park is mostly about the landscape.

Trees and topiary

Trees and topiary

And gasps of acer colour

And gasps of Acer colour

Beautifully weathered statues loiter wistfully amongst the trees.  They mingle with newer wood sculptures, showing no apparent resentment.

Walks spiral off in all directions from the mighty Jubilee Oak, and another named for Catherine Parr.  You don’t have to follow a specific route but simply wander to wherever your eye finds most pleasing.  It doesn’t really matter.  It’s all lovely!

Despite it being a glorious day, the park is quite peaceful.  Strangers nod to each other, wearing beatific smiles in the unaccustomed October warmth.  Only when we reach the Autumn bays is there a sense of urgency.  Bathed in rosy colour, we gaze upwards.

This is what Autumn is all about

Autumn in all its splendour

I'm more taken with the Sycamore wings

I’m more taken with the Sycamore wings

I can sense you beginning to tire.  There’s only so much beauty the eyes can take in, and we’re not far from the promised tea rooms.  If Meg were here she’d be fingering the bark on so many of the trees.  But you’ve earned your bowl of soup, and some of that yummy cake.  Which one to choose, I wonder?  There’s a full menu on the website, all very reasonably priced.  (Dare I admit to having the pensioner’s special?)

The Arboretum is just beyond the lovely market town of Bedale, in North Yorkshire, and details of how to get there are also shown on the website.

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I’m feeling quite tired myself after all that exercise.  I’ll just say my thank you’s and get that kettle on, I think.  You’ve certainly brought variety this week.  Thank you so much to all of you who keep following me down this path.  I really value your company.  Anyone wanting to join in will be made very welcome.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.

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Scotland has some of the most beautiful gardens, and in wonderful locations too.  Thanks, Anabel!

Inverewe and around

And I can’t argue with this description from Violet, either :

The prettiest town

A little fog gives a nice air of mystery, don’t you think?

Monday Walk : Texas Countryside

A comprehensive guide- see the sights with Jackie!

Day 2- Berlin

Richard doesn’t mind being a beach bum.  With beaches like this, who would?

Cornwall’s Seven Bays in pictures

A ‘kick of happiness’ is what you’ll get if you join Drake this week!

A lake, peaks and a queen

Ever tried Australian salmon?  Ruth explains why you might not have :

Salmon Ponds

Not so taxing as last week’s walk, but still you might prefer just to gaze in admiration :

Rain, Rivers and Waterfalls : The Steall Falls

Next up, a nice relaxing stroll around Central Park (or a ride in a horse drawn carriage if you’re feeling flush)

Travel Album: New York City (2)

Tobias is showing us a very different kind of beauty.  Come and see!

A Short Walk in Saint-Saturnin-de-Lucian

I hope you enjoyed the walks this week.  I certainly did!  Where to take you next week?  I haven’t made my mind up yet.  I shall just wish you all a Happy Halloween week and hope the weather stays fine.  Bye for now!

Jo’s Monday walk : Fabrica to Cacela Velha

Fabrica, our start point

Fabrica, our start point

If there’s one place in the Algarve that always works its magic on me, it’s Cacela Velha.  I’ve taken you there before on my walks (remember Mind that hole!?) but today we’re taking the boat ride from Fabrica.  In all my Algarve years I’d yet to see the ferry across to the beach operating, but a reference to it in Spanish ‘Conde Nast’ left me determined.  Described as ‘one of the best 15 beaches in the world’, I’ll leave you to judge for yourself.  How many beaches can there be in such a location?

But I’m getting ahead of myself, as usual.  Taking a Cacela Velha turn off from the E125, you will first come to a sign pointing to Fabrica.   This will bring you to a tiny harbour with a couple of very laidback bars and a restaurant.  Out of season it’s a place for fishermen and locals, but on the last day of my holiday in September it was almost bustling.  The tide was out and flipflops or bare feet were the best way to squidge across to the boat.

Leaving the harbour

Leaving the harbour

We scoot out to meet the sea, the boatman deftly following preordained paths through the water.  Running aground would be all too easy.

You have two choices for disembarking- the first stop is opposite to Fabrica.  The second, further along the sand bar, is opposite Cacela Velha. Let’s get out at the first, then we can have a bit of a beach comb before catching the boat back from the second stop.

Looking back at the shoreline

Looking back at the shoreline

And just in case you thought I had the beach to myself...

And just in case you thought I had the beach to myself…

It's a great meeting place for birds

The lagoon is a great meeting place for birds

There's the boatman heading back to base

There’s the boatman heading back to base

Ahead, the open sea

Ahead, the open sea

The sky was very hazy and the sea a milky blue as I wandered with my camera.  What makes this beach special, though, is the view back across the lagoon to the fortress on the headland.  There’s an almost mystical quality, to my mind, in being out there on the lagoon.  The tide was low enough to plodge across to the shore, but the sea creeps in stealthily here and you can be caught out.

The fortress across the bay

The fortress across the bay

A handful of people in the water

A handful of people in the water

The fortress reflected in the salty puddles

The fortress reflected in salty puddles

I carry on beach combing as the tide flows gently back.  Joyful cries and laughter reach me from the family on the sandbar.  The Portuguese families revel in their beautiful surroundings.  And I do, too.

Can you see them on the sandbar?

Can you see the family on the sandbar?

Their boat bobbing in the bay

Their boat, bobbing in the bay

I should explain that this beach stretches all the way back to Tavira.  You can reach it by catching the ferry from Cabanas, and the beach will be much busier nearer to that resort.  A very long beach walk would eventually bring you to this spot.  In the winter months that or swimming across would be the only way to get here.  Or a boat taxi, of course.

In the opposite direction, the beach rolls all the way to Spain, but first you have to cross over a channel.  A boat is a very useful thing to own in this part of the world.  Speaking of which, here comes the ferry.

We leave behind Cacela Velha

We leave Cacela Velha behind

And head back to Fabrica

And head back to Fabrica

The end of our walk?  Well, first we might have a snack at one of the beach bars.  Then I’m going to show you the view from Cacela Velha over to ‘our’ beach, just to give you a sense of place.  It’s only a half hour walk along the road to Cacela Velha or, if the tide’s not too high, you can walk the strip of beach that hugs the cliff.  You’d then have to climb the steps to the village.

Sitting at a Fabrica beach bar

Sitting at a Fabrica beach bar

And there you have it- the view from the fort

And here you have it- the view from the fort!

Across to 'our' beach

Across to ‘our’ beach

And there's even a bench to enjoy the view

And there’s even a bench to enjoy the view

Thanks for humoring me with this boat ride and saunter along the sands.  My earlier walk gives you a land-based version, if you’re not a lover of boats.  In either case, the views won’t disappoint.  In the world’s top 15?  I think there’d be strong competition. But I enjoyed it very much, and I hope you did too.

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Thank you very much for all your support, and lovely comments.  I have a fine time walking with you every week.  If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page or just a click on the logo above.  Next comes the good bit.  Put the kettle on and get ready for a good read!

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Humble apologies are due!  I forgot to include this walk last week, so please rush over there first :

Urban Walk 2- Toronto Cityscape

Totally opposite in every way- beach shots to die for with Anabel!

Faraid Head

You can walk, or take the train.  Either way, you’re bound to love the views!

A Walk in the Cinque Terre

Amy’s world is beautiful!  Have you noticed?

Monday Walk : Architecture Walk, Austin, part 4

I’ve heard so many good things about Berlin.  Let’s take a look, shall we?

Day 1- Dublin to Germany

A trip back in time with Drake this week?  Any trip with Drake is good!

Yesterday, nowadays

And now for something completely different.  Many thanks, Elena!

Renaissance Fair in Las Vegas

You wouldn’t get this level of activity on a UK beach ever, I don’t think!  Lazy, aren’t we, Pauline?

Early Morning Beach Activities

Ruth has a totally fascinating tour for us this week.  One not to miss :

Port Arthur Convict Settlement

The highlight of Geoff’s post for me is Wimbledon Park tube station.  A blast from my youth!

Capital Ring- Earlsfield to Richmond

Jude always shares beautiful walks but she has really blown me away with this contribution!

A Walk on a Wild Ridge

If you really want to test your fitness levels, this could be the place :

A Tale of Two Peaks- Part 2

Once in a while I find something a bit different.  For the foodies among you- say ‘hi’ to Ishita :

Iva’s Yummy Ljubljananjam Food Walk

Talking about unusual, thanks for these ‘wild’ animals in the city, Becky!

Panthers in Pittsburgh

I haven’t had a stroll with my friend Esther for a while.  Sing along, won’t you?

Walk- Down the Canyon

The title of this next post could really have described mine, but they couldn’t be more different!

Walking, Sailing, Walking, Wading

And you can always rely on Gilly to find the beauty in life :

A Green Circle Walk

Or maybe a stroll in sunny Munich will suit?  Thanks, Rosemay!

Nymphenburg The Summer Palace

Lastly, Denzil does his very best to give us a smile on a grey day :

Grey day in Grez-Doiceau

Lots this week, aren’t there?  I do hope you can find the time to visit, and many thanks to all of you for keeping me such good company.  I have one more Algarve walk in reserve, but next week I’m going to hurl myself into an English Autumn, before it passes me by.  I’d love for you to join me. Have a great week, won’t you?

Jo’s Monday walk : Odemira, in the Alentejo

Rua Serpa Pinto in Odemira

Rua Serpa Pinto in Odemira

Curiosity often gets the better of me.  When I discovered, on my visit to Vila Nova de Milfontes at the mouth of the River Mira, that ‘Ode’ means river and that the small town of Odemira is situated a small way inland … well, I was curious.  The intention had been to follow the coast back down to the Algarve, sampling beaches along the way.  Well, we definitely did that, but a small side trip to Odemira was called for.

One of the attractions, mentioned in my ‘Rough Guide’, was a riverside walk.  That sounded appealing.  I also knew that there was a boat trip connecting Odemira with Vila Nova de Milfontes, but sadly that wasn’t practical on our way south.  There’s always time for a little stroll though.

This bridge was a good start!

This bridge was a good start point!

There were a few clouds, but not too many

There were a few clouds, but not too many

It was quite easy to park, on rough ground down by the river, and cross over the bridge to this peaceful little path, which we had all to ourselves.

Now which one of Jude's bench challenges would this one fit?

Now which one of Jude’s bench challenges would this one fit?

It's a nice enough view, isn't it?

It’s a nice enough view, isn’t it?

Sorry, Jude- not a person in sight!

Sorry, Jude- not a person in sight!

The riverside walk was shorter than I had expected, so there was plenty of time to saunter around the little town.  It seemed to me so typically Portuguese.  A mix of dilapidation and renewal.  There was scaffolding up at several of the larger buildings.  Freshly white-painted grandeur nudged sadly peeling properties, still awaiting their turn.  In the small, ‘sell everything’ shops, life continued as it must have for generations.  Just off the Praca da Republica, the main square, the coffee habit was indulged.  Shopping could wait.

Such a typical Portuguese street!

Such a typical Portuguese street!

An elegant fountain

The elegant town fountain

Before I know it, I’m passing a new-looking sculpture in a small square and a handful of modern shops.  Rather incongruous, but part and parcel of Portugal today.  In very little time I’m back at the river bank and the lovely bridge.  Too soon?

A modern square

The modern square

Our walk today was not at all taxing so feel free to stop en route for coffee.  You’ll easily find an appealing cafe.  I hope you enjoyed joining me. Later this week I’ll do a round up of those west coast beaches in the Alentejo, and then it’s full speed back to the Algarve.

If you’re in the area, Odemira is on the N393.  Travelling south from Vila Nova de Milfontes, you hopefully can’t miss it.

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Time to share this week’s walks.  Thank you very much everybody.  I’ve had a wonderful response.  If you’d like to join in there are a few hints on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  I never turn anyone away.  Why would I?  Let’s get walking!

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You know I love to start with Drake.  This week he has some incredible views :

Austrian upstairs

And Geoff was quick off the mark too.  Blue skies in Tooting Bec?

Capital Ring : Tooting to Earlsfield

Our lovely Jude was lakeside walking this week.  There’s a bench, of course!

Park Life

Amy and Jude are sharing park life this week- thousands of miles apart.  Great minds! :

Monday Walk : Zilker Park

Jackie took me to Bantry Bay.  Some distant damp day memories for me :

Junkboat Travels: Monday Walk 

Did I ever tell you that I love squirrels?  Thanks, Becky!

Chipmunks, squirrels and a groundhog!

And how did Becky know I’ve always wanted to visit this place?

A Walk in the Cinque Terre

DON’T miss this one, or its sequel, from Pauline :

The magic of a dream come true 

The Buddha Walk at the Crystal Castle

Don’t you love it when they breathe new life into a place?  Many thanks for sharing, Kaz :

Travel Album: Distillery District, Toronto

There are few pleasures in life better than sharing with Meg :

Eurobodalla beaches: Congo beach south

And the landscape on this one is equally stunning!

Ancient Stone

Lastly, I’m extremely honoured to have this guy join us. He’s living a lifestyle many would consider idyllic (with the odd misadventure along the way)

Tampak Siring : Bathing in the Sacred Springs

Hope I haven’t missed anybody?  This past week was tricky but I’m still here.  The sun’s shining so you know what I’m going to do after coffee, don’t you?  Happy walking everyone!  See you next week?

Jo’s Monday walk : Carrapateira

A nice way to travel?

A nice way to travel?

Don’t get too excited- we’re walking, of course!  On our recent trip to the Algarve, we picked up a guide to walking trails in the local Tourist Information Office.  It’s available to download online, but with more than 30 walks and over 100 pages, it’s much easier to pay 7 euros for your own copy.  I’ve included the link, just so you can see what you’re missing.

Today’s walk is based on ‘Trail of Tides’, a shortened version of no. 16 in the guide.  I didn’t undertake the whole 19kms, not because I’m lazy, but because we had already, that day, driven down the coast from the Alentejo and a riverside walk there.  Nothing too strenuous was planned.

A paddle might be nice before we get started

A paddle might be nice, before we begin?

The walk starts in the tiny village of Carrapateira, just off the west coast of the Algarve.  A cluster of cafes, a surf shop and a church- who needs more?  Oh, and there’s an old windmill too!  At the southern end of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentina protected nature park, a small stream, the Ribeira da Carrapateira, flows out through the dunes.

You walk out of the village through a straggle of houses, in the direction of the coast.  It’s a tarmacked road initially, and as it winds up the hill you could be forgiven for wondering why you hadn’t brought the car.  My husband did!

But then, you'd miss views like this

But then, you’d miss views like this

And even better, this!

And more importantly, this!

As you crest the brow of the hill you begin to appreciate

As you crest the brow of the hill you begin to appreciate just where you are

On top of the world, with the whole of the Portuguese coastline rolling away from you on either side.  At this point you exchange tarmac for dirt track, but still occasional cars continued to bump past us.

There are plenty of boardwalks to get closer to the cliff edge

There are plenty of boardwalks to take you closer to the cliff edge

The glint

Where the tantalising glint of the water beckons

The coast curves invitingly

And the coast curves invitingly ahead

Despite the beauty of the views the sun was beginning to lower in the sky, and it still felt like a long way back to our beginnings. Perhaps it would have been a wise move to bring the car, and park at each of the viewing points, as many seemed to do?  But that would have been cheating, wouldn’t it?

The lookouts are at strategic points

The lookouts are at strategic points

Pontal was a danger for sailing ships

In the distance, the rocks at Pontal

Carrapateira point, or Pontal, has a jutting headland that made it a likely place for shipwrecks in the past.  The rock formations look deceptively similar to Cabo de S. Vicente, the south west tip of Portugal, eleven miles further south.  The rapid southbound current that adds to the danger also creates perfect conditions for surfing.

Today the water is

Today the water is deceptively calm

Alluring Amado in the distance

Alluring Amado, in the distance

Some days everything goes to plan, and some it doesn’t.  The famed surfing beach at Amado was still far ahead.  We knew that following the trail would take us there, but then we’d have to head inland, back to the village, in gathering gloom.  The joy of this particular trail is that there are alternatives.  Just beyond the headland the trail splits in two.  The left hand path will fairly swiftly bring you back to the village, or you can carry on down the coast.

The red cliffs tumbling away

The red cliffs tumbling away

Reassuringly Carrapateira appears ahead

Reassuringly, Carrapateira appears ahead

Another day I might take you to Amado, but you need to get there early.  The little car park soon fills up.  Carrapateira itself lies directly on the N268 coast road.  The link to the walking trails guide at the top of the page will give you full details, and a few other ideas besides.

Time to relax and put that kettle on!

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Yet again I have some wonderful walks to share with you this week.  Many thanks to all my contributors.  I greatly appreciate your loyalty, and I get enormous pleasure from sharing our walks together.  For anyone who doesn’t know the format, my Jo’s Monday walk page will tell you how to join in.  Just click on my logo.  You’ll be warmly welcomed.

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What better way to start a new week than with a walk from Jude?

Garden Portrait: More from Nymans

Who knew Texas was this beautiful?  Thanks, Amy!

Monday Walk: Walking along the lake

Drake brings so much pleasure with his little insights and views on life :

Raid into the fall

Up hill and down dale- Geoff takes us to the Bec :

The Capital Ring: Crystal Palace to Tooting

I always have fun with Pauline, no matter where she wanders  :

Bangalow, a country gem

Time to get a little adventurous with Ruth.  Not too scary- you’ll like it!

Airwalk, glider and swing bridges

Deeply honoured to have Sonel joining us on the walks this week.  Don’t miss!

500px Fujifilm Global Photo Walk : Damwall and Schoemansville Oewerclub

Step back in time beautifully with Suzanne (and I DO mean back!)

A walk in the bush

Pauline’s garden is a tropical paradise!  No wonder she doesn’t mind going home  :

Home from the Hills

Look- the tide’s out!  Come on, be quick- follow Anabel!

Marwick Head and Birsay

And lastly, my favourite walk of the week.  I’m sure you’ll know why!

Cobbles and Blue Sky, a Tavira stroll

I have a slight dilemma facing me this week.  I hope to be with you to share more walks next week, but there may be problems.  No worries!  I’ll keep you informed.  Meantime you might like to give those guys at Monday Escapes a shout.  Have a great week, won’t you, and happy walking!

Jo’s Monday walk : Tyniec Monastery (a walk in two halves)

The Benedictine clifftop monastery at Tyniec

The Benedictine clifftop monastery at Tyniec

It was 8 years ago that I was first taken to Tyniec by my neice, Weronika.  Back then, it was all part of the newness of Poland in my experience, and my memories are indistinct.  I barely managed to grab a photograph!  Time to set that straight, but it was not quite so straightforward as I expected.

On a beautiful, sunny day I set out along the river bank of the Vistula, from Most Debnicki, in the heart of Kraków.  The route hugged the river closely and the name of the road, Tyniecka, seemed encouraging.  As I drew further away from the city, the path became quieter, with just the occasional jogger or cyclist for company.  It was wonderfully peaceful.  Too good to be true?

The river bank with Debnicki Bridge and Wawel in the background

The river bank with Debnicki Bridge and Wawel in the background

Looking across the river at St. Augustyna on the far shore

Looking across the river at St. Augustyna on the far shore

It looks imposing

It does look imposing!

In the distance another bridge beckons

In the distance another bridge beckons

What I hadn’t allowed for is that soon after the above bridge, the footpath runs out.  The only option becomes a busy road with no footpath on either side.  For a while I carried on, trying not to mind the passing traffic, but a sign suggested it was still 9kms to Tyniec. The option?  A bus, of course!  No. 112 runs about every 20-30 minutes, and deposits you in the pretty village of Tyniec.  Signs point the way to the monastery.

Tyniec lies 12km south west of Kraków in an area of limestone Jurassic hills, the highest of which is 293metres above sea level.  The first settlement here dates back to 3000 B.C.  In around 1040 a Benedictine abbey was founded by King Casimir the Restorer.  It was destined to have a long and turbulent history.  Aron, the first abbot of Tyniec , became a bishop of  Kraków, with the responsibility to restore order and cement the position of the Church in the newly formed Kingdom of Poland.  In 1259 the village was destroyed in the Mongol invasion of Poland. This was just one of a sequence of assaults.  In the Middle Ages the River Vistula was a political border. The Abbey would no sooner be repaired and extended than it was beseiged again.

When Poland disappeared from the map of Europe, divided between Austria, Prussia and Russia, the Abbey was used as a fortress to hold off the Russian troops.  In 1816 the Abbey was finally dissolved by the Austrian authorities and left to decay.  It wasn’t until July 1939, on the eve of World War II, that the Benedictines returned to their ruin.  Restoration was begun in 1947 and looking at the complex today it’s hard to imagine all that has gone before.

But this is how it looked when it was repossessed in 1939

But this is how it looked when it was repossessed in 1939

And how bleak it must have been in Winter

And how bleak it must have been in Winter

A series of information boards showed the devastation.  I would have liked to take a tour of the Abbey, but these were conducted in Polish unless you had pre-booked an English tour.  I doubted that I would benefit much and opted to simply use my eyes.  The life of the monastery continues uninterrupted from 5.30 in the morning, with the awakening bell, until 20.30 and the beginning of ‘night time silence’.  The website gives details of how a monk spends his day, and much more.

In the centre of a large courtyard sits a well, which reaches all the way down to river level below us. There is a wonderful sense of peace. The most recent additions to the complex include modern reception and shop but they are not intrusive. High on the wall, a small cafe, with beautiful views down to the river.  I know you would have liked to see my piece of szarlotka, but it melted into my mouth too quickly to be caught on camera.  Accommodation is available for guests, and I can’t help feeling that this could be a very special place to spend a few days.

I had wondered if it would be possible to come to Tyniec by boat from Kraków.  Steps lead down through the trees to the river below, and there I found the evidence.  Sadly, only in Summer, on Saturdays and Sundays.  It would make a wonderful alternative route back.

But trying not to disturb the peace

Trying not to disturb the peace

The best view of the monastery would be from the opposite bank of the Vistula, but I saw all that I could.  The path threads beneath the mighty limestone crags and disappears off around the bend.  The temptation to follow it was strong, but ‘home’ lay in the opposite direction.

A colossus in white

A colossus in white

Beside the ferry point there’s a small cafe where you can enjoy a beer and a few Polish snacks.  A path leads back towards Kraków and I followed it for a while, not sure if it would rejoin the ‘main’ road through Tyniec.  A grand looking restaurant sits back beneath the cliffs, and in the distance, views of Bielany.

Satisfied with my outing, I retraced my steps up through the village and back to the bus stop. This time I stayed on the bus back to the centre.  The rest would keep for another day.

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Thanks to everybody for their patience and the kind contributions that still flowed in despite my wandering ways.  There are double rations from a few people this week, and you may have seen some of these but please be sure not to miss any.  If you would like to join me, now or in the future, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo above.  Now please grab that coffee and settle down for a good read.

Drake has two offerings- a beautiful moat and castle :

Royal architecture

Or maybe Lorelei would suit you better :

Between ruins and rivers

Anabel keeps on finding sunshine in Shetland.  A neat trick!

Lighthouses and cliffs: three Shetland walks

Who’s up for a little turtle spotting with Violet Sky?

Fairy Lake

A really good guided walk takes a lot of beating, as Laura will tell you :

Guided through the city

Elisa goes people watching in the rain, in that most beautiful of cities :

A Paris Habit

Lessons in geology, and pure beauty, from my pal Meg :

Eurobodalla beaches: Bingie Bingie headland 

While Ruth manages to combine beauty and practicality :

A bush walk with links to fire management

Whooshy water always appeals to me, and Rosemay is lovely company :

Wild Seas at Canal Rocks

You’ll enjoy this sunset with her too :

Sunset at Cape Naturaliste

Over the hill takes on a whole new connotation with Pauline and her four-legged friend :

Time for walkies 

And you can just picture Pauline and Jack pootling about these stalls :

Market Day at Mullumbimby

Then stopping for fish and chips (not greedy- sharing a portion of chips)

A walk along the river

Jesh shares some of her beautiful paintings :

The Tale of one of my Plein Airs and an Imaginary Walk

And Jill shows us the beauty of her native coastline :

A wander around Ahuriri Estuary

The scenery’s a little more bleak with Jaspa :

Sewell, Chile: UNESCO World Heritage Ghost Town

Tish is known to be fond of elephants.  Combined with bubbles, let’s finish with a smile!

Summer came back on Saturday and took us to the Fair

Many thanks to all of you and I hope you have a wonderful week ahead. (weather prospects in England are good!)  See you all next Monday, when we’ll probably be back in the Algarve.  Take care till then!

Jo’s Monday walk : Vila Nova de Milfontes

Looking down from the castelo at Vila Nova de Milfontes

Looking down from the castelo of Vila Nova de Milfontes

I don’t know what it is about castles and beaches but they seem to me a very pleasing combination.  And the one above, in the Alentejo, isn’t the only one I found.  But we have to start somewhere so today I thought I’d take you over the Algarve border, and on up the western coastline of Portugal.  I have been to this area before but never so far as Vila Nova de Milfontes.

Situated at the mouth of the River Mira, the presence of the castle tells you that it was not always so peaceful here. Forte de São Clemente still has a drawbridge.  Dating back to 1485, the town had a key defensive role to play, and the wide estuary provided a safe harbour.  Today it’s not pirates we have to fear so much as tourists.  The town is part of the Southwest Alentejo and Costa Vicentina national park, which stretches all the way down the coast and into the Algarve.  As such it enjoys a good measure of protection, and development is largely low rise.

Not for nothing is this known as the windy coast, and in my short visit it was highly apparent that this could be a cool spot. (the wind sometimes whistled in the corners of my hotel)  But I also experienced some lovely sunshine, so let’s take a wander through the town.

We'll start here in the shade of the castle

We’ll start here in the shade of the castle

There’s a tiny square,  Praça da Barbacã, very atmospheric at night, which looks down on the ferry point.  A rather strange sculpture has pride of place.  It pays tribute to the role played locally in aviation between Portugal and Macau in the Far East.

This is the nicest part of town, as you wander gently uphill through a mix of older houses and new.  There’s a small, simple church and a few gift shops.  What appears to be a tiny cafe turns out to be a 3 storey Tardis, serving food to half the town, myself included!  I meander along, past ochre and immaculate blue and white, letting my eye drift, as it does.

But wait!  There are surprises in store.

I thought that there must be some kind of scarecrow festival going on, but this was the only evidence I found.  Just one ‘spooky’ street, with an interesting shop or two for delving.

Or a seahorse with attitude?

Maybe a seahorse with attitude?

This looks like a good place to stay

And on the street corner, a good-looking place to stay

Pausing, I look down to the right and catch a glimpse of water.  Like a magnet, I’m drawn.

Looking back you can see the road bridge spanning the River Mira which brings you into town, but ahead the estuary opens out. Locals race against the tide to winkle out errant shellfish. Beneath my feet, a shelf of lavishly coloured rock.

Gazing out to sea

Gazing out to sea

And here's the ferry point. It's lunch hour!

And here’s the ferry point, at lunch hour

A group of backpackers sit in the shade.  I wonder where they’re off to next.  It feels like a transient place, and I know that there are beaches aplenty, just waiting.

Time to mount the steps back to the castelo

Time to mount the steps back to the castelo- not too arduous!

And this is your reward!

And here you have your reward!

I hope you enjoyed our morning amble.  That fresh sea air always does me a power of good.  The resort has probably stayed so peaceful because it’s quite a distance from the nearest airport, Lisbon, and you would probably need to drive there.

Time to share some walks.  Got the kettle on?

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Some of these folks have had a long wait to be included this week, so apologies if you’ve already been there.  Please do visit them if you haven’t.  If you’d like to join in, details can be found on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  You’ll be very welcome.

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Let’s start the ball rolling with Bratislava.  Wouldn’t I love to accompany Debbie there?  This is SO pretty!

No Feeling Blue Here

Blue skies in the Shetlands for Anabel.  Lucky, or what?

Jarlshof to Sumburgh Head

Car boot sale anyone?  Actually Violet’s calling it a Farmer’s Market :

To market, to market

Random but very enjoyable rambles with Jackie and Frida Kahlo :

Monday’s Walk

Fairmont Banff Springs!  Sadly this luxury is not for me, but just look at Amy’s photos!

Monday Walk : Castle in the Wilderness (2)

Drake pays a wonderful tribute to ‘strong women’ :

The shades of Joan of Arc

And, in my absence, he took a little walk with the Beatles!

Nowhere walk

While Jaspa takes us strolling ‘down South America way’ :

The Streets of Santiago, Chile

Jill takes us for a fun wander (and I think there’s street art too)

Auckland City on a good day

What do Errol Flynn and Hobart have in common?  Find out with Ruth!

A walk around Battery Point

Fascination and excitement from the Southern hemisphere!  You’ll find it with Laia :

Rotorua: Maori culture and geothermal activity

And please welcome another ‘fit person’ to my walks.  You may have difficulty keeping up!

Memories of Ireland: Mount Brandon

Jude has excelled herself in my absence, with 3 new walks!  The most recent one unfortunately ended with a limp.

Garden Portrait : RHS Wisley part 1

Garden Portrait : RHS Wisley part 2

A painful memory or two here from Jude- suffering for her art!

Garden Portrait : Painshill Park

Unfortunately I won’t be walk leading next Monday as I’ll still be recovering from a Polish wedding.  I’m only gone a few days and hope to be back on track after that.  Seriously!  Meantime you might like to keep an eye on those lovely lasses at Monday Escapes.  Take care, and enjoy your walking!

 

 

Jo’s Monday walk : On the Waterfront, Bristol

Harbourside in Bristol

Harbourside in Bristol

Everywhere looks better with blue skies and Bristol’s waterfront is no exception.  I thought my luck had changed on the last day of my visit, as the skies turned to steely grey and the damp stuff arrived.  But Bristol didn’t let me down.  One cappuchino and a visit to the cathedral later, a walk along the waterfront became a distinct possibility.  So, what are we waiting for?

I have to confess that the photo above was taken from on board the Bristol Packet.  Everything doesn’t always go to plan, and when I turned up for a guided walking tour of the city I was told that it had been cancelled.  ‘Too many people in the city’, due to the Balloon Festival, was the reason given.  Nothing for it but to take to the water.  No hardship there- but I digress!

Bristol’s Floating Harbour is a huge tribute to the resourcefulness of man.  In 1809, 80 acres of tidal river were impounded to begin the taming of the estuary.  Bristol had developed at the most downstream point at which it was possible to cross the River Avon, 6 miles inland.

The tidal range of the Bristol Channel is the second greatest of any in the world.  The tide can rise and fall as much as 14 metres twice a day.  This was an advantage and a disadvantage for sailing ships in the old days.  They could be carried all the way to Bristol on the current, but equally well they could be stranded in the mud when the tide turned.  Bristol merchants had to think of a way of damming the river, allowing the ships that were in the river to stay afloat.  Thus, a ‘floating harbour’.  I found a fascinating video which explains in more detail.

The cathedral is just beyond the Floating Harbour and I headed for Watershed, a good-looking building which now houses the Tourist Information Office.  A series of cafes and restaurants line the harbourside, and behind these are Bristol Aquarium and the Science Centre. Plenty to do on a rainy day, and interesting exhibits outside too.

The water feature was first to attract my attention

The water feature was first to attract my attention

But something interesting was going on in the background!

But something interesting was going on in the background!

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There was a solar energy project, and sculptures I rather liked too.  Black and white, for Paula.

A little damp to be a scribe!

Rather damp to be a scribe!

The sky still a little heavy, I returned to the waterfront and continued to follow it inland.  Modern and stylish apartments sit back from the promenade, interspersed with cafes and bars.

Heading around the waterfront

Heading around the waterfront

Life on a narrowboat?

Life on a narrowboat?

Beside the ruins of a former mill

Beside the ruins of a former mill

And in the background, the 'SS Great Britain'

And in the background, the ‘SS Great Britain’

Isambard Kingdom Brunel, designer of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, was one of the engineering giants of the 19th century.  At age just 27 he was chief engineer of the Great Western Railway, linking Bristol to London.  He then turned his attention to trans-Atlantic travel, and his steam ship ‘The Great Western’ crossed the ocean from Bristol to New York in 1838, a journey of 15 days.

Her successor, ‘SS Great Britain’, was the world’s first iron passenger liner.  At the time of her launch in 1843 she was the largest ship in the world, and had an innovative screw propeller in place of conventional paddle wheels.  She had a long and illustrious career, sailing the world as a passenger ship for 30 years, before converting to cargo.  Old and tired, she was finally recovered from the Falklands and returned to Bristol as a hulk in 1970.  Restoration has seen her take pride of place today as a first class visitor attraction, in the dock in which she was originally built.

'SS Great Britain'

‘SS Great Britain’ visitor centre

Maybe you remember 'On the Waterfront'

Do you remember my friend, ‘On the Waterfront’?

Junction Lock Bridge

Junction Lock Bridge leading to Cumberland Basin

Is anybody hungry?

Is anybody hungry?

I had promised myself a visit to ‘The Pump House’ when I passed it on my long walk home from the Balloon Festival.  The building housed the original hydraulic pumping system for operating the lock gates, and is a beautiful conversion.  As luck would have it the rain was starting again- the perfect excuse.

When the rain eased, I continued on towards the lock into the Avon Gorge.  The current lock was opened in 1873 and can accommodate the largest ships that can navigate the Avon.  From here it is 6 miles by water to the mouth of the river, where it joins the Severn estuary. Ahead you can see Clifton Suspension Bridge, but beyond this point a busy road runs close to the river, and it becomes less appealing to follow.

A tour boat passes through the lock

A tour boat passes through the lock

The logical thing to do, if you have the stamina, is to cross over the harbour and return along the opposite shore of the waterfront.  You could call in at the SS Great Britain or visit the Museum of Bristol in M-Shed.  The wharves here were wiped out during heavy bombing in the Blitz and this free museum tells the story of the city.

Another alternative is to catch a ferry.  There are numerous ferry stops along the river, and you can travel all the way round to Temple Meads station (another Brunel wonder) if you wish.  It was my last day in Bristol and I wanted to see a little more of Clifton Village, so I rather foolishly clambered back up the steep side of the gorge.  Maybe we’ll have time for a look at the village another day, but for now I’m going to amble back along the quay, in my watery element.

Making the most of the sunshine

Making the most of the sunshine

Now I’m back at my start point on St. Augustine’s Reach, named for the abbey church of St. Augustine (now Bristol Cathedral).  The Reach was the course of the River Frome, diverted into this man-made trench in 1247.  You will see from the Floating Harbour video that the water once continued into what is now Millenium Square and the heart of the city.  I have still to mention Pero’s Bridge (a reference to an enslaved African boy) and then our walking tour is done.

And all ends peacefully

And all ends peacefully

I expect you’re a little tired, but the good news is that I’m missing from the walks for two weeks so you can have a lovely rest.  I hope you’ve enjoyed looking at Bristol as much as I did. And now it’s surely time to put that kettle on!

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Before I go I have some more wonderful walks to share with you.  Thank you so much for all the support and encouragement I receive. If you have any walks that you would like to link up, now or in the future, the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  Do, please!

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I think I spotted a friend on the beach at Le Havre, with thanks to Drake!

Walk on water or almost

Not quite so cheery trawling a graveyard but the company is good.  Cheers, Jude!

Discovering St. Leonards

Nobody does reflection like Suzanne!  Or Impressionism, come to that :

A walk in the gardens

You will not believe how gorgeous these shoes are in stained glass!  Thanks, Jackie!

Bata Shoe Museum

But you can believe that when Amy posts photos of Banff they are fantastic!

Monday walk : Exploring Banff Lakes

Equally beautiful, even with a hint of snow, Ruth tiptoes along a mountain path :

A Walk on Mount Wellington 

Jaspa is back this week with a South American saga :

Exploring Lima’s Historic Centre on foot

And, responding magnificently to the WP weekly challenge….  thank you, Gilly!

Things you see on a good day

Becky has shared a wonderful reminder of why I’m looking forward to the Algarve this week :

Strolling in Silves

Thanks everybody, and that just leaves me to say that bright and early on Thursday I will be heading south.  I hope to catch up with all of you before I go, and there might even be another post.  Look after yourselves, happy walking and I’ll see you soon.  While I’m gone you might like to try a Monday Escape?