Jo’s Monday walk : Porto Pim

I have just one more walk to share on Faial, before moving on to the island of Pico.  Porto Pim is a strip of sand and pellucid bay, tucked between Monte Queimado and Monte da Guia, to the west of the town of Horta, where we walked last week.  At least, it was, the day we took this stroll.  Pretty as it is, there’s a dark side to this story.  Take note of the factory on the far shore.

The beach is a conservation area, and is the first part of the island of Faial to have been settled, back in 1460.  The ruins of a fortress guard the entrance to the bay, and there was once a thriving port here.

Today all is peaceful, though we did note that a lone yachtsman, moored and enjoying the serenity, was asked to move on by the maritime police.  He wasn’t exactly disturbing the peace, and communications were friendly, but he very quickly upped anchor and away.

The shoreline is ragged with rocks and it’s easy to imagine volcanic activity here.  A straggle of houses line half of the bay.

I can dawdle by reflections and shimmering water all day, but eventually I tore myself away and continued around the bay.  I had half a mind to climb up to the Senhora da Guia, but had already been to the top previously, by taxi.  Clouds were scudding about and when the sun disappeared it was cool.  Against my better judgement I headed towards the whaling factory.

It’s a sad fact of life that man and beast often struggle to live side by side.  In the 19th century these islands were the base for a titanic battle between man and whale.  With often averted gaze, I observed the tiny craft which the islanders used to corral the whales and harpoon them to death.  Horrifying though I find it, it was a way of life and a means of survival for islands that were poor and isolated.  I can’t bring myself to share details of the industry but the Fabrica da Baleia (Whaling Factory) explains it for you.  From as young as 13, the men of the islands took to sea, rowing these flimsy vessels in pursuit of their victims.

Skeleton of a whale
The whaling boats

Whaling was outlawed just 70 years ago.  I’m so happy that leisure boats have replaced the whalers.  The 20th century brought submarine cables to the islands, ensuring telegraphic communications between America and Europe, and now tourism is thriving.

Peace has been restored.  I found this bay oddly disturbing.  Perhaps because of the carnage that once took place here.  I was happy to move on, and we returned to Horta for a meal at Peter’s Sport Café, famous in these parts and full of flags and souvenirs from passing sailors.  You’ll be happy to know that I had a wonderfully healthy hummus salad.  The other half didn’t even have space for cake after his bumper burger.  How sad!

walking logo

Lots of walks again this week.  Thank you all, and please find time to visit- especially any blog you don’t know.  Details over on Jo’s Monday walk.

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Debbie has me discombobulated in old Valencia this week :

A casual circumambulation of Valencia’s Barrio del Carmen

Jackie is a terrible temptress, with a love of art :

Summer Tarts

Amazing what you can do with corn!  Just ask Janet :

Monday walk… in tall corn

Toronto looks to have some nice suburbs.  Pay a visit with Indra :

Toronto Summer- Unionville vibes

A few clouds, a bench or two and some lovely old stonework- that’s Anabel in Scotland :

Castle Semple Country Park

While Rosemay revives a few memories for me :

Valley Gardens Harrogate – Walk to Harlow Carr

And Drake is, as always, at home by the water :

Back to the Normandy

Ulli takes us to a place I know quite well from my days with Polish family :

Vast diversity of Wroclaw

Coffee and cake with Irene, but that’s not all!

A Walk to Starbucks

Ruth took a stroll yesterday.  I never mind what day we walk, so long as we do :

Sunday Stroll -Tranmere Coastal Path

Or even linger a little while, like Carol :

Behind the Walls

But if it’s a long walk you want, Cathy’s your expert :

(Camino day 25) Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza

And finally, let me introduce Anne.  Please do pop over and say hello :

Frome riverside walkway

Feeling quite virtuous with no cake in sight.  This week I’ll be taking you across the water to Pico.  You’ll love it!  Have a happy one!

115 comments

  2. I can well understand the rather eerie feeling you’d have Jo – am glad that tourism is now a livelihood rather than the past whaling industry though as you say it must have been a matter of survival for the locals back in the day 😦 Thankfully times have moved on (here at least though alas not everywhere). Your photos capture the mood so well both beautiful and yet haunting at the same time. Thanks so much for including my walk this week too xx 🙂

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      1. Thanks Jo – more than a few dramas this week including a gas leak (nothing to do with the renos!) and just waiting for tradesmen to turn up now to do tiling (they’ll be here most of today to catch up!). We have my cousin arriving at the end of the week too for another visit but at least we have a working washing machine since yesterday 🙂 🙂 Still we are fortunate to have all these gadgets to make our lives easier and hoping this week really will be the last of the major work 🙂 Hope your week has gone well – you must be setting off soon for your next trip? 🙂 🙂

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      2. Never rains but it pours, Rosemay? There’s always one of these funny old sayings to fit the bill, isn’t there? Having company arrive always gives me the jitters so I’d hate to have the house in uproar too. Soon be done- got my fingers crossed 🙂 🙂

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      3. A very apt description Jo! Had a lovely walk down by the sea earlier in wild damp conditions but it certainly blew a few cobwebs away (another funny old saying!). Just realised I never put the link to your Monday Walk in my post last week, which you kindly included, so I will do that now and make amends – many apologies! Hope you’ve had a nice relaxing weekend X 🙂 🙂

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      5. No problem at all Jo – already done doesn’t take long I just forgot last week! I’m hoping to do another walk soon – I really need to get back into a routine things have been all over the place here to say the least! Sounds very nice if a bit hot – do you get a sea breeze in the afternoon where you are? It really helps us here in the summer months! 🙂

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  3. I am glad it wasn’t a strenuous walk Jo. I am a bit weary so a stroll around the bay was just the ticket. We have whaling stations on the coast here as well but have long since gone, replaced by mega mansions. I too am stuffed with my dinner so I am glad M didn’t want cake as I couldn’t fit in another bite.
    Thanks for the company Jo x

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  6. Oh my! All so serene… there is so much to explore in this universe! Not possible in a lifetime! But I guess it’s possible only through beautifully compiled blogs like yours!

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  7. What a nice walk. As for the whaling industry, I suppose people had to support themselves somehow. It’s hard to imagine young boys at age 13 going out in those flimsy boats to harpoon humongous whales. Thanks again for the link. Enjoy your day! 🙂

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      2. Of course! I’m still on phone so haven’t checked. Bit late to correct it now. A wonder the ‘oracle’ didn’t spot it but he was off playing tennis. Shame about Roger, wasn’t it? Ah well…time to shift myself from the roof and cook. Loving the deck 😎💕

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      3. I hope you are looking after your skin! Too much sun turns it to leather…and yes, I was keen for Roger to win, but a good match. Feels weird now without tennis to watch!

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  15. Another grand tour, Jo. I can see how ghosts of a dark and dangerous trade still linger. I’m also imagining what it must have been like to grow up as a boy in a whaling community where your future out at sea was already determined.

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    2. That’s what comes next, Tish! Our tour of Pico was with the grandson of a whaler who was featured in this museum. He went to Newfoundland after the Capelinhos earthquake in 1920. Quite a characterful family! 😊🐳💕

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