Clear, deep blue eyes in a tanned face, and dark hair, our guide for the day, Velomar Carváo, couldn’t be anything but an Azorean. He was waiting for us at the little agency we found, by the waterfront at Horta, a gentle smile lighting those intelligent eyes. We hadn’t known what to expect, but were treated to a personal tour of a very beautiful and beguiling island. First stop, the ferry terminal, and a small inter-island ferry.
We went ‘up top’ and he went inside, and we basked in glorious sunshine. Out in the bay we picked up the breeze and the boat bobbed and rolled, riding the waves triumphantly. ‘Are you sailors?’ asked Velomar, as we disembarked. There’s always a strong current between the islands. We had kept our gaze firmly on the horizon, scanning for those still elusive whales.
Into a hire car, we swiftly left the little port of Madalena, and in seconds were among the vineyards. Mile after mile of them, enclosed by lava walls. Briefly we left the car to walk between them, as Velomar explained some of the history. Out on the lava rocks, punished by the tides, we saw the grooves where the wine had been ‘barreled’ down from the vineyards, to the waiting boats, for shipment to neighbouring Faial and beyond.
The volcanic soil produces a very special wine, which we were to taste, later. Pico is the second largest of the Azores, and there was much to see in just one day. On our way to the next stop Velomar kept us richly entertained with the history and politics of the islands, emphasizing the rivalry between Pico and Faial, the latter having grown rich on the pickings and its situation as prime distributor.
We were to stop at the Sanctuary of Sáo Mateus. Yet another church, I remember thinking, but you should never make judgements in advance. The beautifully carved wood was unlike anything I have ever seen. Bom Jesus Milagroso is worshipped by thousands of pilgrims from the islands.
We were now only a few kilometres from Lajes and a planned lunch stop at ‘O Lavrador’. The views down to the bay should have been special, but the clouds had rolled in. We consoled ourselves with silky soft island cheese, served with a piquant ‘molho’, and a vast buffet, washed down with island wine. The grey skies seemed to fit the mood as we drove down into Lajes. This was the main whaling station on the island, with a museum dedicated to those sad creatures. For Velomar, whaling was a part of his family history, and he was proud of his grandfather, whose name appeared on the monument to whalers. An article about the industry had been featured in National Geographic, with a photo of the grandfather for whom he had been named. Much changed on the islands after the earthquake of 1920. The ruins of many a family home still wait for the return of their owners, fled to Canada and Newfoundland to start a new life.
Inland, and up over the mountain, fresh and green, to the town of Sáo Roque on the north of the island. Bathing platforms tempt the adventurous.
Probably my favourite part of the island next, a wine refinery co-op, ‘for the people’. Rustic and very beautiful, the village by the sea, the stark slabs of lava lifted with rich red and dark green doors and windows and defiant white walls.
Arguably, Velomar had saved the best for last, but the clouds consented to part again as we made our final stop. I had read of the beautiful and innovative Cella Bar, and agreed eagerly when he suggested ending there, a mere 10 minute sprint from the port at Madalena.
What can you say to a view like that? Sleek external lines with a stunning deck, the inside a pleasing mix of island stone and cedar wood. We deliberated over which of the fine wines would best celebrate our day in this beautiful place.
All too soon we were back on board and skimming swiftly across the water to Faial. Rarely have I spent such a memorable day, the charm and personality of our guide adding much to our experience.
Looks like I missed this walk Jo. Send the boat back, I am still at the Cella Bar 🙂
What good taste you have, Brian 🙂 🙂
❤
I don’t mind if I do, love that giant coffee pot!
I had to think, Gilly! Never easy 🙂 🙂 You mean the windmill. I’m still on my first coffee. Love you, hon!
I had to go and look to see what I missed. I am with you it does look like a giant coffee pot 🙂
Was für eine wunderbare Gegend. Vielen Dank für die herrlichen Bilder…
Danke schon, Ernst. 😎⛅🐬🌊💕
What a wonderful place to go exploring.
That was how I felt, Suzanne 🙂 🙂
You have now put the Azores on my wanderlust radar Jo. Prior to this special trip and series of posts I knew very little. It sounds like the special birthday celebration has been a huge success.
It’s certainly on your flight path from Canada, Sue. I just hope you enjoy it as much as I have. 🙂 🙂
Wow! So beautiful!!
I love it! 🙂 🙂
Another awesome interesting tour.. Thank YOU.. 😉
Wonderful world, isn’t it? 😍💕
Wow Jo, what a pleasure to have done that tour! There are so many interesting facets of the island. That church is wonderful! The views, the coop, the bar, the poignant history…enchanting!
I could happily have stayed, Lynn. Even had my eye on a cottage 😆🐳⛵🌊💕
Your photography is getting better with every post. I love clouds and the sea looks so warm. Thanks for taking me along. Hope you had a great week. xoxo
Thanks, Cheryl 🙂 🙂 You can only capture what’s there and Pico was stunning. 🙂 Just checking out for the day or I won’t get anything done. Will pop over to yours later.
Sure! No worries! xo
Now was it the island or the guide that was encouraging you to stay!!!!
He was quite a magnetic personality, Becky, but far too intelligent and political for me. And he had a Brazilian lady he was a-courting 🙂 🙂
hee hee . . .guess Mike may have said something too!!!
Probably ‘you’re welcome to her’ 🙂 🙂
The black and white vernacular architecture is quite striking. And although the exhuberant decoration of the churches is not my style, it really is most impressive and magnificent. What a special day.
This was an island I could make home, Margaret. I had my eye on one of those little cottages. What a view each morning, and the wine harvest… 🙂 🙂 Pure bliss!
Absolutely stunning. I’ve loved tagging along on this trip.
You’ve been great company, Su 🙂 🙂 I really didn’t want to come back from this one.
I can totally understand that. I looks like such a wonderful place.
This seems like such a special place. Lovely photos Jo.
Alison
I felt that way too, Alison. I didn’t want to leave. 🙂 🙂
As always, I’ve enjoyed tagging along.
Thanks for your company, Amy 🙂 🙂
What a wonderful day and how lovely to see it with Velomar and enjoy the benefit of his knowledge and passion. You had glorious weather for this adventure too Jo and the blue skies and sparkling water are beautiful.
The contrast of the volcanic soil and the vines peeping through, with those seas all around! I didn’t want to leave, Carol. 🙂 🙂
So breathtakingly beautiful, Jo. Thanks for sharing your experience there. Your guide sounds perfect. xx
Don’t you just love that light on the water, Ad? I could have stayed on that deck forever. 🙂 🙂
Lovely church – though my favourite things would be the wine co-op and the bar.
I loved that little village with the wine co-op, Anabel. Imagine waking to that view every day 🙂 🙂
Perfect!
Beautiful !! I visited Sao Miguel last October, and now you make me want to go back so I can visit the other islands ! It is a magical place out there !
I think so too! I can’t decide between Sáo Jorge and Pico as my favourites. 🙂 🙂
Jo, i read your posts and gaze at your photographs with a grateful heart. sharing with us your journey and experience of incredible places i’ve never heard of perhaps never will physically see. thank you so much, dear Jo. you are truly a blessing :
I’d like to come to Chicago and give you a hug, LolaWi 🙂 🙂 But for now we’ll just keep sharing photographs.