Jo’s Monday walk : Same river, different city

You might remember, a few weeks ago, I had the bubbly and delicious company of Gilly on the banks of the River Wisła (Vistula) in Warsaw.  Fast forward a mere 5 days and there I was, beside that same river but many miles further south, in Poland’s second city, Kraków.  A mighty river, this one, it begins its journey on the Baltic Coast and flows south for 1,022 kilometres (635 miles).  How I got there is another story, but my mission today is simply to take you for a wander and, as luck would have it, a boat ride.

Earlier that morning I’d been in Kraków’s green and leafy suburbs, assisting with toddlers aged 3 and 18 months on an outing to the park.  Wilting in the heat, the little family had been glad to return home.  A cooling drink, then I hopped a bus into a city that never fails to delight me.

With no particular aim in mind, as I approached the river it was almost automatic to jump off.  If cooling breezes were to be found anywhere in Kraków, this would be the place.  Truth be told, I didn’t get very far before the notion of a glass of wine and an icecream became very appealing indeed.  What could be finer than sitting on the deck of a restaurant boat, facing lovely Na Skalce (the Church on the Rock)?  The steady hum of traffic crossing Most Grunwaldzki became a soothing murmur.  Hooray!  Here comes the paddle steamer, big wheels churning.  And a burst of speedboat cleaves the water in front of Wawel Castle.

I couldn’t sit there enjoying myself all day.  Time to cross over the river.  But scarcely was I on the other side than temptation struck again.  No, not cake!  The first time I ever came to Kraków I walked my husband’s legs off.  He was more than happy to agree to a boat ride, just to sit down.  Unfortunately on that occasion the ride was accompanied by a light drizzle, whereas this was the perfect day to be afloat.  One of those lovely little wooden boats was about to leave the jetty.  It was meant to be, and 30zł (about £6) for an hour wasn’t going to break the bank.

The boat sailed in one direction along the river, as far as the Salwator Church, then returned to the jetty.  This half hour trip cost 15zł, but if you stayed on board it then sailed in the opposite direction, passing Na Skalce and a sequence of bridges before returning to the jetty.  This second leg I found fascinating as the area was less familiar to me.  An idea was germinating that I might return the following day to explore on foot.

Trams and trains passed overhead, but it was the bridge Kładka Ojca Bernatka that particularly captured my imagination, and I resolved to come back for a closer look at the figures suspended over the river.  A building with an industrial chimney and appearing to be clad in corten steel also caught my eye.  On the river bank, the footpath stretches grandly into the distance, stylish riverboat restaurants just calling out to be visited.

Disembarking, I look wistfully up at Wawel Castle.  No time today.  I am being summoned to ‘obiad’, late afternoon lunch with my Polish family.  Walking back to the bus stop I mingle with school trips, and the riverside coach park bustling with vendors.  Billboards shout holiday destinations, demanding my attention, but who would willingly leave this fair city?

Come with me next week and we’ll explore the world beyond that beautiful bridge.  Meanwhile there are many stories to tell.  Thanks for bearing with me as I flit from here to there.  I’m grounded now, for a little while, and looking forward to my English summer.  I hope you’ve got the kettle on as there are some wonderful walks to share.  I’ll go easy on the cake as I over-indulged at an Open Garden event yesterday.

From high in the Alps to the lovely capital of Malta, with my good friend Drake :

Last morning in the Alps

Little pearl in the sun

You can always rely on Debbie to make life colourful and interesting :

Industry and art come together in Seoul

And for Susan to write beautifully, whatever the weather :

Walking Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

32 years together!  Lady Lee shares a special celebration :

Many thanks!

Share an extravaganza of food with Jackie, and then…

Coffee to go

Jesh takes a look at life, always in her own unique way :

Background Jumps

While Jaspa takes us back in history for a closer look at these ruins :

The Step Pyramid of Djoser – Part of the Saqqara Necropolis, Egypt

Persistence rewarded for Eunice and ruins of an entirely different nature at the end of her walk :

Part 2 – Llanlleiana, Porth Wen, and a long walk

Emma treats us to one of Wales’ great beauty spots, lovely paintings, and even a hang glider ride!

Gower Coastal Walk : Rhossili Bay

Who IS that mysterious lady on the beach?  Walking with Meg always makes me smile :

Eurobodalla beaches : around Tuross

It’s a while since Jude took a walk.  She’s usually too busy in the garden.  Wild orchids and butterflies, a lovely reward :

A Walk to the Lighthouse

Another orchid, I think, from my lovely Gilly, enfolded in lushness with a dramatic dragonfly :

Walking to the mill

And in complete contrast, Cathy finds spellbinding beauty in the desert :

Upper Ute Canyon & the Coke Ovens Trail at Colorado National Monument

A magnificent collection and many thanks to one and all.  Join me any time on Jo’s Monday walk and I’ll try to make you welcome.  The sun is still shining here in the north east and it’s time I rejoined my English walking group.  Wishing you all a lovely week!

136 comments

  3. A former colleague comes from Krakow and she always made it sound wonderful, so it is on my list. It’s a very big list though, and while the workaholic insists on jetting off to China all the time there’s not much chance of whittling it down!

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  4. There’s so much lovlieness on that river Jo and what perfect weather for exploring.The Salwater Church and the building in the first picture caught my eye – both so different. The bridge, with what look like acrobats performing, is interesting.

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      2. No sign of a sale on the house yet so I’m just enjoying Wimbledon and an English Summer. Not usually spoken in the same sentence! I tried to leave this comment on yours but I don’t think it sent from my phone xx

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  7. A lovely wander you took me on Jo. Always great to have family in different parts of the world, especially beautiful ones such as Poland. I love all those castles in the background. Xx

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    1. If I didn’t have the family connection I don’t suppose I’d have hurried there, Draco. And what an enormous loss that would be. It’s beautiful in so many ways. 🙂 🙂

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  10. Lovely to hear you are enjoying the Polish family. The weather looks gorgeous there and this riverside walk with a boat ride was just the ticket. So many beautiful photos to enjoy. ..Thank you:)

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    1. I had just 6 fleeting days, Gilda, but it was enough to see family and catch up on their lives. It’s hard trying to keep in touch by email. I was made so welcome, I couldn’t fail to enjoy it. 🙂 🙂

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  12. I should think that with the amount of walking and travelling you do, that indulging in the odd cake or two wouldn’t make much difference, but hey! best to keep on top of it. Poland looks delightful in your photographs. I’ve never been there but maybe one day …. Unfortunately, or fortunately, my nearest family lives in Sweden so I’m apt to pop over there when I have time and when the fares are reasonable but watching some of the scenes from Russia last week I am beginning to hanker after a return visit. I spent a week in Moscow in the seventies when it was a grey and dour place but now the colours are dazzling, and I was in St. Petersburg in the eighties but that city, although still a bit dour, was more cosmopolitan. I loved them both, being a fan of the Russian writers.

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    1. It was a village event and we had cake at every turn, Mari. The rhubarb slice was my favourite. 🙂 🙂 I would love to visit St. Petersburg, and Stockholm too.

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  13. Oh now I’m jealous, you got a boat trip 🙂 Well it just means I’ll have to go back,or go to Krakow. Did you go inside the church, it looks facinating? Oh why can’t I spend my wholelife travelling? There’s just so much world to see.

    Happy days sweetheart x ❤ x

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    1. I’ve been inside Na Skalce, which is rather sombre and Catholic but in spectacular grounds, Gilly, but not Salwator, which I presume is the one you mean? It’s a little out of the way from a walking point of view. One of the best river trips is all the way out to the monastery at Tyniec- a truly spectacular location. Yes, you’re right- too much world. Why can’t I be like Bespoke Traveler and go a-wandering? I often ask myself that. Hugs, darlin!

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  15. RJo – What a perfect solution for a hot weather day: let the boat do the walking! I really enjoyed your photo-boat-stroll. I visited in 2010, and stayed right along the banks of the river. (and also – thanks for the link!) – Susan

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  16. Pingback: Summer solstice bonfire – Ladyleemanila

    1. Not a bad idea, Sue, but I have no idea when that might be. I need to sort my Portuguese life out first. 🙂 🙂 I do actually have a wedding invitation for late this month but it’s in Belchatow and I won’t be going. I’ve already apologised but must remember to send a card.

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  20. I wonder why we never thought to take a boat ride in Krakow?! We did enjoy the banks of the river quite often as we stayed on one side and spent most of our time on the other. I loved this post with the boat photos and the descriptions of your lazy and active river pursuits!

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    1. It actually gives you a limited and slightly misleading view of the city but it added to my knowledge and it was exactly what I needed right then. I really enjoyed my follow up walk the next day and you might well recognise some of it xx

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