Jo’s Monday walk : Same river, different city

You might remember, a few weeks ago, I had the bubbly and delicious company of Gilly on the banks of the River Wisła (Vistula) in Warsaw.  Fast forward a mere 5 days and there I was, beside that same river but many miles further south, in Poland’s second city, Kraków.  A mighty river, this one, it begins its journey on the Baltic Coast and flows south for 1,022 kilometres (635 miles).  How I got there is another story, but my mission today is simply to take you for a wander and, as luck would have it, a boat ride.

Earlier that morning I’d been in Kraków’s green and leafy suburbs, assisting with toddlers aged 3 and 18 months on an outing to the park.  Wilting in the heat, the little family had been glad to return home.  A cooling drink, then I hopped a bus into a city that never fails to delight me.

With no particular aim in mind, as I approached the river it was almost automatic to jump off.  If cooling breezes were to be found anywhere in Kraków, this would be the place.  Truth be told, I didn’t get very far before the notion of a glass of wine and an icecream became very appealing indeed.  What could be finer than sitting on the deck of a restaurant boat, facing lovely Na Skalce (the Church on the Rock)?  The steady hum of traffic crossing Most Grunwaldzki became a soothing murmur.  Hooray!  Here comes the paddle steamer, big wheels churning.  And a burst of speedboat cleaves the water in front of Wawel Castle.

I couldn’t sit there enjoying myself all day.  Time to cross over the river.  But scarcely was I on the other side than temptation struck again.  No, not cake!  The first time I ever came to Kraków I walked my husband’s legs off.  He was more than happy to agree to a boat ride, just to sit down.  Unfortunately on that occasion the ride was accompanied by a light drizzle, whereas this was the perfect day to be afloat.  One of those lovely little wooden boats was about to leave the jetty.  It was meant to be, and 30zł (about £6) for an hour wasn’t going to break the bank.

The boat sailed in one direction along the river, as far as the Salwator Church, then returned to the jetty.  This half hour trip cost 15zł, but if you stayed on board it then sailed in the opposite direction, passing Na Skalce and a sequence of bridges before returning to the jetty.  This second leg I found fascinating as the area was less familiar to me.  An idea was germinating that I might return the following day to explore on foot.

Trams and trains passed overhead, but it was the bridge Kładka Ojca Bernatka that particularly captured my imagination, and I resolved to come back for a closer look at the figures suspended over the river.  A building with an industrial chimney and appearing to be clad in corten steel also caught my eye.  On the river bank, the footpath stretches grandly into the distance, stylish riverboat restaurants just calling out to be visited.

Disembarking, I look wistfully up at Wawel Castle.  No time today.  I am being summoned to ‘obiad’, late afternoon lunch with my Polish family.  Walking back to the bus stop I mingle with school trips, and the riverside coach park bustling with vendors.  Billboards shout holiday destinations, demanding my attention, but who would willingly leave this fair city?

Come with me next week and we’ll explore the world beyond that beautiful bridge.  Meanwhile there are many stories to tell.  Thanks for bearing with me as I flit from here to there.  I’m grounded now, for a little while, and looking forward to my English summer.  I hope you’ve got the kettle on as there are some wonderful walks to share.  I’ll go easy on the cake as I over-indulged at an Open Garden event yesterday.

From high in the Alps to the lovely capital of Malta, with my good friend Drake :

Last morning in the Alps

Little pearl in the sun

You can always rely on Debbie to make life colourful and interesting :

Industry and art come together in Seoul

And for Susan to write beautifully, whatever the weather :

Walking Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

32 years together!  Lady Lee shares a special celebration :

Many thanks!

Share an extravaganza of food with Jackie, and then…

Coffee to go

Jesh takes a look at life, always in her own unique way :

Background Jumps

While Jaspa takes us back in history for a closer look at these ruins :

The Step Pyramid of Djoser – Part of the Saqqara Necropolis, Egypt

Persistence rewarded for Eunice and ruins of an entirely different nature at the end of her walk :

Part 2 – Llanlleiana, Porth Wen, and a long walk

Emma treats us to one of Wales’ great beauty spots, lovely paintings, and even a hang glider ride!

Gower Coastal Walk : Rhossili Bay

Who IS that mysterious lady on the beach?  Walking with Meg always makes me smile :

Eurobodalla beaches : around Tuross

It’s a while since Jude took a walk.  She’s usually too busy in the garden.  Wild orchids and butterflies, a lovely reward :

A Walk to the Lighthouse

Another orchid, I think, from my lovely Gilly, enfolded in lushness with a dramatic dragonfly :

Walking to the mill

And in complete contrast, Cathy finds spellbinding beauty in the desert :

Upper Ute Canyon & the Coke Ovens Trail at Colorado National Monument

A magnificent collection and many thanks to one and all.  Join me any time on Jo’s Monday walk and I’ll try to make you welcome.  The sun is still shining here in the north east and it’s time I rejoined my English walking group.  Wishing you all a lovely week!

136 comments

  3. I love a boat ride! This one seems so pleasant and lovely. Did you make it up to that bridge to see those suspended figures? I love that gorgeous Salwator Church and that cute character on the horse at the end of the boat. I hope you enjoyed your ‘obiad.’ Thanks for the link, Jo. I hope you enjoy the rest of your English summer. I’ll be settled in as well, until September! 🙂

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      1. Good! I can’t wait to see those suspended characters up close! Will link another post I’m sure. I plan on posting a walk every Sunday, just in time for yours. 🙂 Being fed is always good; you know I’d enjoy that.

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  4. Krakow looks so beautiful Jo – that boat ride in the beautiful weather must have been idyllic 🙂 🙂 We are hoping to visit next year so will look forward to reading your next post too.Hope you are enjoying the summer heatwave in the UK at present! 🙂

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    1. I’m baking in the garden right now, Rosemay. We walked this morning and Wimbledon just started so I’m keeping half an eye on that too. The next walk should interest you. I really enjoyed it but then I enjoyed the whole of my Polish experience xx

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      1. It sounds very hot Jo – most unusual that the heatwave is going on for such a long time! We get strong sea breezes in Perth during the summer from around lunchtime onward – the so-called “Fremantle Doctor” which makes such a difference. Winter now though and cold and wet here with gales and storms so am rugged up inside tonight with the wood fire going and a nice hot drink. I couldn’t even get a walk in today though I was out and about and had to run to avoid the weather so maybe that counts? I haven’t seen much of Wimbledon yet – competition with the World Cup going on (Monsieur glued to the TV) and the Tour de France starting soon (I just watch for the scenery!). I’m looking forward to your next walk! Enjoy the rest of the week xx 🙂

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      2. Thanks darlin! It was cloudy this morning and I almost sulked. Lovely again now though I’ve never seen English grass so parched. Even I watched England last night. Talk about tension but ‘it’s coming home’ xx

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  7. Oh, how I’d love to come with you to Krakow – thank you for taking me a bit on the road and river! I agree, all cities and towns should have a river. Soothingly beautiful to the mind and the eye. Let’s ponder about what lies beyond that bridge…while sipping…an ice-cream here. It is still 27-30 degrees C.

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  9. Wonderful photos Jo, I’ve missed your Monday walks. The river looks lovely and a boat ride like that would be just my thing – I love the quirky horse’s head and rider on the front of that boat 🙂

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  10. Such a beautiful river. I would have wanted to cruise it, too. I thought of you on my recent trip to Cairns. I went to Yorkeys Knob esplanade for a walk and realised for the first time it was named after a man from Whitby, George Lawson.

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  11. I can see why you love Kraków. A must for my next trip to Poland. I’ve been there briefly twice, but salt mines, Auschwitz, twins and the main square left no time for river rambling, by boat or on foot. That coil of pink rope alone would’ve sold me on it as a destination for the future. Your photos are superlative, not least the kids in the park. I want mine!!!! Despite the pleasures of life here. Hugs as your busyness diminishes a tad – and a quick sale.

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    1. You’ll soon have your kids,I’m glad to say. Had to be discreet with which pictures I show. Next week’s walk will be much better. Hugs returned darlin and thank you xxx

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  12. Nothing beats a village, town or city with a river, wonderful way to get through. Kraków is so charming and fascinating, added so many stories and so much history. Excellent captured, my dear friend. 🙂

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  13. I love cruising calmly both ways along this magnificent river With you Jo, and sipping wine to cap it off. Perfect weather for it too. Hope all is well on the home front

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