Jo’s Monday walk : Lisbon… one last time

“Let me take you by the hand, and lead you through the streets of…” Lisbon… one last time.  I’m sure Ralph Mctell won’t mind.  I’ve always loved this song but the YouTube video is harrowing.  There’s a dark side to cities that rarely appears on here, but I know you don’t have to wander far from tourist heaven to find it.

You can walk this walk from top to bottom, or bottom to top.  I’ve done it both ways.  I can only suggest that you take your time, and stop off for coffee whenever the fancy takes you.  And I can definitely promise you cake.

Here we are, at the top of Parque de Eduardo VII, looking down on the panorama of Lisbon.  Close by you will find the bus station, which was my final destination that day.  You have choices of where to linger.  I never did make it into the Calouste Gulbenkian museum, but I did let myself be sidetracked by the estufa fria (cold greenhouse) in Edward’s park.

Wise owl in the grounds of the Gulbenkian
It’s a grand looking building
A different kind of bird at the bus station

I shan’t even attempt to name names, except for one specimen I received a cutting of from the family in Kraków.  It’s thriving still on my windowsill.

That last one is a Tradescantia Spathacea and it can be found in Belize, Guatemala and the south of Mexico.  And on my windowsill.

The simple joy of flowers.  So, we’re still at the top of the park but, if you should feel the need for a cuppa, I know the very place.  Linha d’Água.  Otherwise it’s a gentle stroll down through the park, pausing to admire the restored Pavilhão, and a few azulejos, of course.

Cross busy Praça do Marques de Pombal and you’re on the Avenida da Liberdade.  Follow the patterned pavements all the way down to Rossio, or Praça de Dom Pedro IV, as it’s properly known.  The whole character of the walk changes here as you are on the edge of the Baixa, the lower part of the city.  Its tall, narrow streets are named for the gold, silversmiths and other tradesfolk for whom this was once the commercial centre.

If you didn’t stop for a drink before, or even if you did, this is another good area.  A Brasileira and Café Nicola have both stood the test of time.

Refreshed, it’s time to go upwards a little.  If the queues aren’t too bad you might want to use Elevador de Santa Justa.  Otherwise it’s a steep climb up to Largo do Carmo and the beautiful ruined Convento.  Sadly, I had no time to enter.

The views out across the city, towards Castelo de São Jorge, are as good as any you’ll find in Lisbon.  You can make your way past the exit from the Elevador and down to a terrace full of recliners.  Not a bad place for a cocktail!  And an internal lift will carry you back down to street level.

Now I have to make my way all the way back to the bus station.  Better leave you with that promised cake, as I journey home to the Algarve.

It’s been a long series of posts, but I hope it’s given you some idea of how lovely a city Lisbon is.  I’m returning to the Algarve soon but I will share one more Monday walk before I go.  Not sure where it will be, just yet.

As usual I’d like to thank you all for your company and your contributions.  Please find a little time to read these.  I do appreciate it.  If you’d like to join me with a walk, next week will be your last chance for a while.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Nothing like a bit of company to make a good walk great, is there, Jude?

Readymoney Cove to Fowey

Funnily enough this is somewhere Jude and I have been, together!  Thanks, Anabel!

Edinburgh: a Canongate walk

I’d like to introduce you to a lady called Martha.  She’s walking on one of my old stomping grounds :

Best walks in London : Thames Path west, Richmond to Hampton Court

That white stuff just won’t go away!  Pity poor Jackie in Toronto :

Les Feves Au Lard

And you can almost hear the ice crackling on Drake’s post!

Added white atmosphere

But of course it’s a very different story in Australia.  Let Pauline introduce you to the Scribbly Gum Moth.  Yes, really!

A walk round my patch

This is a very delightful photo walk with Aarti :

Photowalk in Bosque El Olivar

And who doesn’t love a walk with views like this?  Not Sunny Days in Seattle :

Hiking : Oyster Dome

Finally, something completely different, from Kat  :

In the Footsteps of the Samurai : Walking the Nakasendo Way

Good variety, I’m sure you’ll agree.  The forecast’s not good for this week but I hope to get out and about.  If not, I’ll be watching the Australian Open tennis.  Enjoy your week, however you spend it!

124 comments

  1. we do like that cafe at the top of the park for lunch! And in March there is hardly ever anyone there. Think we’ll be back there again this March as we thought on our third visit we really should make time for the museum, but knowing us we will get distracted by a cafe or another walk!! Lisbon as you have so beautifully highlighted in your series of posts is such a great city to explore 🙂

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    1. We were there twice in 3 days- first for lunch, and then on the way home for Mick’s cake. 🙂 🙂 Thanks darlin! I have been wondering where you’d beavered off to but make the most of it. I had a quick weather check and we’re not going to fare so well. But it will be better than 2C and snow. 🙂 🙂

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  2. Happy New Year, Jo! Hope all is well! These are gorgeous pictures of Lisbon. Oh, such a beautiful city! I have really good memories visiting Lisbon. Pregnant with our second daughter and no idea that I would live in the US only two years later. I’d love to go back!
    I took a bit of a blogging break, but now I’m getting back in the grove and just shared some impressions of one of my most favorite places. Hope you like it. Looking forward to your future walks and photographs, xo Kathrin
    http://coellefornia.us/hopfen-am-see/

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    1. Happy New Year to you, Kathrin! 🙂 🙂 I’m about to go on a bit of a break myself (the Algarve beckons 🙂 ) but I will be sharing one more Monday walk so I’m glad you’ve made it here. 🙂 Thanks, darlin!

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  5. Fabulous photos again Jo. The views from Parque Eduardo VII are fabulous. We used to own a small apartment nearby when my daughter was studying at Uni in Lisbon. I’ve never been to the Calouste Gulbenkian museum or the Estufa fria either, so more stuff to add to the list. I’ll be in Lisbon in April just for a short while, hope I can manage to do some visits.

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  6. Now I want to go to Lisbon as well! But I think Porto might be more do-able and pretty? Hope you’re okay darling, not long now before the sunshine, we’re promised 50 mile an hour gales tonight! x:-)x

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    1. I really like both cities Gilly. I still haven’t seen everything I’d like in the Lisbon area and I would love a return to Porto. Why does this world have to be so gorgeous? Been up since 4 watching tennis. Something tells me I’ll be tired tonight. Hugs darlin xx

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  9. What a feast for the eyes, Jo, with those flowers, blue skies, and beautiful architectural details. It was the perfect thing to warm me up even as I heard our weather forecaster explaining that we are getting more snow late tonight. You make me want to visit Portugal every time you write about it!

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  14. Lovely Lisbon – I love your interpretations of the city, because mine is not that great. I have only been there fore some days a couple of times – always on the run to another destination. But during those days, we had 41 degrees Celsius. And, that fact is the reason to why I do not remember anything about the city. Except HEAT. Thank you again for a positive view!

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  15. Jo, Portugal has long been on my want to visit list and, between you and Becky, I am spurred on even more to get there one day. Lisbon is so beautiful. I can identify some of those plants for you. The first one with the spiky orange flowers is Bird of Paradise and the next one down with the orange bell-like flowers is a clivia. Both are native to South Africa but grow profusely in Australia. The beautiful purple flower is an Iris and the pinkish orange one above the girl in the pond is a bougainvillea.

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  18. Thank you, Jo, for, again, taking me to places that I probably will never be able to see… too many places to go, and too little time 😉
    Have a great day.

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  19. Well another place I didn’t manage to see – the park – and it looks as though I would really like it. Maybe another trip to Lisbon is on the cards after all! I did get to Rossio and that magnificent station AND the wave square and even went inside the convent. I really do need to write some posts about Lisbon as I got some lovely photos. Meanwhile it has been charming to accompany you on this walk. And share what looks to be Michael’s chocolate cake 😀

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    1. There are so many ups and downs when it comes to cities, aren’t there, Jude? (literally, in Lisbon’s case 🙂 ). I would be tempted to give Porto or Coimbra a try first if I were you, but I’m sure you’d love estufa fria. Yep! That’s his cake. I really can’t remember what I had but I know there was too much wine before I climbed up to Carmo. Not like me at all 🙂 🙂 Make it to the beach today? And how’s the foot?

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      1. Very windy again here today Jo. And due to get windier I fear. Maybe I shall attempt some wave watching on Wednesday if it is not raining. The foot seems to be improving, but every other joint aches right now! I have a feeling the dampness down here is not good for me 😦

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