Jo’s Monday walk : Lisbon… one last time

“Let me take you by the hand, and lead you through the streets of…” Lisbon… one last time.  I’m sure Ralph Mctell won’t mind.  I’ve always loved this song but the YouTube video is harrowing.  There’s a dark side to cities that rarely appears on here, but I know you don’t have to wander far from tourist heaven to find it.

You can walk this walk from top to bottom, or bottom to top.  I’ve done it both ways.  I can only suggest that you take your time, and stop off for coffee whenever the fancy takes you.  And I can definitely promise you cake.

Here we are, at the top of Parque de Eduardo VII, looking down on the panorama of Lisbon.  Close by you will find the bus station, which was my final destination that day.  You have choices of where to linger.  I never did make it into the Calouste Gulbenkian museum, but I did let myself be sidetracked by the estufa fria (cold greenhouse) in Edward’s park.

I shan’t even attempt to name names, except for one specimen I received a cutting of from the family in Kraków.  It’s thriving still on my windowsill.

That last one is a Tradescantia Spathacea and it can be found in Belize, Guatemala and the south of Mexico.  And on my windowsill.

The simple joy of flowers.  So, we’re still at the top of the park but, if you should feel the need for a cuppa, I know the very place.  Linha d’Água.  Otherwise it’s a gentle stroll down through the park, pausing to admire the restored Pavilhão, and a few azulejos, of course.

Cross busy Praça do Marques de Pombal and you’re on the Avenida da Liberdade.  Follow the patterned pavements all the way down to Rossio, or Praça de Dom Pedro IV, as it’s properly known.  The whole character of the walk changes here as you are on the edge of the Baixa, the lower part of the city.  Its tall, narrow streets are named for the gold, silversmiths and other tradesfolk for whom this was once the commercial centre.

If you didn’t stop for a drink before, or even if you did, this is another good area.  A Brasileira and Café Nicola have both stood the test of time.

Refreshed, it’s time to go upwards a little.  If the queues aren’t too bad you might want to use Elevador de Santa Justa.  Otherwise it’s a steep climb up to Largo do Carmo and the beautiful ruined Convento.  Sadly, I had no time to enter.

The views out across the city, towards Castelo de São Jorge, are as good as any you’ll find in Lisbon.  You can make your way past the exit from the Elevador and down to a terrace full of recliners.  Not a bad place for a cocktail!  And an internal lift will carry you back down to street level.

Now I have to make my way all the way back to the bus station.  Better leave you with that promised cake, as I journey home to the Algarve.

It’s been a long series of posts, but I hope it’s given you some idea of how lovely a city Lisbon is.  I’m returning to the Algarve soon but I will share one more Monday walk before I go.  Not sure where it will be, just yet.

As usual I’d like to thank you all for your company and your contributions.  Please find a little time to read these.  I do appreciate it.  If you’d like to join me with a walk, next week will be your last chance for a while.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Nothing like a bit of company to make a good walk great, is there, Jude?

Readymoney Cove to Fowey

Funnily enough this is somewhere Jude and I have been, together!  Thanks, Anabel!

Edinburgh: a Canongate walk

I’d like to introduce you to a lady called Martha.  She’s walking on one of my old stomping grounds :

Best walks in London : Thames Path west, Richmond to Hampton Court

That white stuff just won’t go away!  Pity poor Jackie in Toronto :

Les Feves Au Lard

And you can almost hear the ice crackling on Drake’s post!

Added white atmosphere

But of course it’s a very different story in Australia.  Let Pauline introduce you to the Scribbly Gum Moth.  Yes, really!

A walk round my patch

This is a very delightful photo walk with Aarti :

Photowalk in Bosque El Olivar

And who doesn’t love a walk with views like this?  Not Sunny Days in Seattle :

Hiking : Oyster Dome

Finally, something completely different, from Kat  :

In the Footsteps of the Samurai : Walking the Nakasendo Way

Good variety, I’m sure you’ll agree.  The forecast’s not good for this week but I hope to get out and about.  If not, I’ll be watching the Australian Open tennis.  Enjoy your week, however you spend it!

124 comments

  1. Lisbon, not my kind of town … I can’t remember it looking this great – lovely images, Jo!!! When I was there in 2007 the inner city was just a big hole – no, like Paris … not for me – and I didn’t find people that friendly. Old town nice part of the city. You are giving Lisbon a fantastic look. Lovely post. I’m sure that if I go back now I will get another view of the city, but I rather spend my money on Porto and I still plan to make up to your corner. How is the immigration plans coming along?

    1. We can’t all like the same things or some places would be extremely crowded. I think I did see Lisbon at it’s best this time Vivi. We got as far as sorting old records in the loft. When we come home in March we will get the UK house on the market. If it sells we’ll be homeless and have to move. If not, no hurry xxx

      1. Okay, great news … about your plans! Homeless???!!! If you get your house sold, just go … !!!!! I wish you the best of luck.
        You’re so right again, not every destination can suit us. I also find it hard to find any good food, the hotel breakfast was fabulous – but I really struggled with the dinners.

  2. I’ve taken nearly as long to comment as you took to walk around this most inviting city of flowers, tiles, water and curves. My mind is turning towards the northern hemisphere, and her looks like a most inviting way station, or side trip, or maybe just a pipe dream. Saturday-at-home-waiting-for-Shakespeare hugs.

    1. Well, Jude is talking Algarve for her birthday, and Sue expressed an interest so you never know. 🙂 🙂 Take as long as you like, m’dear! I could use a little Shakespeare. Lacking in culture in my neck of the very chilly woods. Needing those hugs 🙂

    1. I think we first went 10 or 11 years ago, Nicole, then a year or so later my son wanted to take his girlfriend to show her. That time I was pickpocketed and it was 10 years till I went back again. The Belem area is hard to beat- the Jeronimos Monastery is there and Torre de Belem. It’s a lovely area for strolling 🙂 🙂

      1. I am attending a Camino meeting on Tuesday night (Jan 30) at our local REI, and I have a potluck with the group next Saturday, Feb. 3. I am in the process now of finding the perfect hiking boots, and it’s not easy. I’d really rather just wear running shoes, but I’m afraid they won’t give me enough support. My first hike with the Camino group is an 8-miler on the 25th of Feb. I walked 6 miles yesterday and was exhausted. Bad boots! I need to get in a lot better shape, that’s for sure! 🙂

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