Jo’s Monday walk : Lisbon… one last time

“Let me take you by the hand, and lead you through the streets of…” Lisbon… one last time.  I’m sure Ralph Mctell won’t mind.  I’ve always loved this song but the YouTube video is harrowing.  There’s a dark side to cities that rarely appears on here, but I know you don’t have to wander far from tourist heaven to find it.

You can walk this walk from top to bottom, or bottom to top.  I’ve done it both ways.  I can only suggest that you take your time, and stop off for coffee whenever the fancy takes you.  And I can definitely promise you cake.

Here we are, at the top of Parque de Eduardo VII, looking down on the panorama of Lisbon.  Close by you will find the bus station, which was my final destination that day.  You have choices of where to linger.  I never did make it into the Calouste Gulbenkian museum, but I did let myself be sidetracked by the estufa fria (cold greenhouse) in Edward’s park.

Wise owl in the grounds of the Gulbenkian
It’s a grand looking building
A different kind of bird at the bus station

I shan’t even attempt to name names, except for one specimen I received a cutting of from the family in Kraków.  It’s thriving still on my windowsill.

That last one is a Tradescantia Spathacea and it can be found in Belize, Guatemala and the south of Mexico.  And on my windowsill.

The simple joy of flowers.  So, we’re still at the top of the park but, if you should feel the need for a cuppa, I know the very place.  Linha d’Água.  Otherwise it’s a gentle stroll down through the park, pausing to admire the restored Pavilhão, and a few azulejos, of course.

Cross busy Praça do Marques de Pombal and you’re on the Avenida da Liberdade.  Follow the patterned pavements all the way down to Rossio, or Praça de Dom Pedro IV, as it’s properly known.  The whole character of the walk changes here as you are on the edge of the Baixa, the lower part of the city.  Its tall, narrow streets are named for the gold, silversmiths and other tradesfolk for whom this was once the commercial centre.

If you didn’t stop for a drink before, or even if you did, this is another good area.  A Brasileira and Café Nicola have both stood the test of time.

Refreshed, it’s time to go upwards a little.  If the queues aren’t too bad you might want to use Elevador de Santa Justa.  Otherwise it’s a steep climb up to Largo do Carmo and the beautiful ruined Convento.  Sadly, I had no time to enter.

The views out across the city, towards Castelo de São Jorge, are as good as any you’ll find in Lisbon.  You can make your way past the exit from the Elevador and down to a terrace full of recliners.  Not a bad place for a cocktail!  And an internal lift will carry you back down to street level.

Now I have to make my way all the way back to the bus station.  Better leave you with that promised cake, as I journey home to the Algarve.

It’s been a long series of posts, but I hope it’s given you some idea of how lovely a city Lisbon is.  I’m returning to the Algarve soon but I will share one more Monday walk before I go.  Not sure where it will be, just yet.

As usual I’d like to thank you all for your company and your contributions.  Please find a little time to read these.  I do appreciate it.  If you’d like to join me with a walk, next week will be your last chance for a while.  Details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.

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Nothing like a bit of company to make a good walk great, is there, Jude?

Readymoney Cove to Fowey

Funnily enough this is somewhere Jude and I have been, together!  Thanks, Anabel!

Edinburgh: a Canongate walk

I’d like to introduce you to a lady called Martha.  She’s walking on one of my old stomping grounds :

Best walks in London : Thames Path west, Richmond to Hampton Court

That white stuff just won’t go away!  Pity poor Jackie in Toronto :

Les Feves Au Lard

And you can almost hear the ice crackling on Drake’s post!

Added white atmosphere

But of course it’s a very different story in Australia.  Let Pauline introduce you to the Scribbly Gum Moth.  Yes, really!

A walk round my patch

This is a very delightful photo walk with Aarti :

Photowalk in Bosque El Olivar

And who doesn’t love a walk with views like this?  Not Sunny Days in Seattle :

Hiking : Oyster Dome

Finally, something completely different, from Kat  :

In the Footsteps of the Samurai : Walking the Nakasendo Way

Good variety, I’m sure you’ll agree.  The forecast’s not good for this week but I hope to get out and about.  If not, I’ll be watching the Australian Open tennis.  Enjoy your week, however you spend it!

124 comments

  4. I would love to go back to Lisbon, this beautiful walk has certainly inspired me. I am in Brazil and Wifi here is not always available, but catching up with some of your posts 🙂

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  7. Top class as usual from you Jo. My daughters 21st in a week any ideas where to go just for a few days.. keep up the good work Jo have a great year..;)

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    1. Hiya Gerry! Thanks so much! If you mean abroad I keep hearing great things about Budapest. So many good offers available right now. If I wasn’t going to the Algarve I’d be so tempted! Hope she has a great time whatever she decides xx

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  9. Loved all those beautiful flowers and fountains in the park Jo. Jude is going to be in Floral heaven. It has been such a lovely city you have shared with us. And look at that blue sky. A time for you to remember while in cold bleak UK. Still very hot here and now the winds have joined in. Sending BIG HUGS

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    1. Ooh, I hope that doesn’t mean fires, Pauline! That seems to be a constant threat. 😦 I really did enjoy Lisbon, even though I was only there a couple of days. We covered some ground! 🙂 🙂 Damp and dreary here but I’m watching tennis and then out for coffee with friends. Thanks so much for your company and support. 🙂

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  15. Jo, your link took me to one of my favourite songs and so moving on its own. I saw the video for the first time now and it is harrowing, so desperately sad. Shopping at the weekend I am so upset for all the homeless and I feel so helpless.

    Your photos of Lisbon are stunning and you capture it wonderfully. I was only there once for a day whilst on a cruise – my mother and I almost jumped ship as we fell in love with the city. So friendly, beautiful, cosmopolitan and just so much to see and so many places to eat – your posts have been a delight and virtual travel to sunny warm places is ideal during the winter months! hugs xxx

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    1. As I started to write the post I was singing the song to myself, Annika, and I thought I should include a link for anyone who didn’t know it or make the connection. What a heartbreaker! I almost didn’t put it in. So glad you’ve enjoyed the series. It’s been a joy to present. 🙂 🙂 Thanks a lot!

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  16. I was going to join in the lament about the current weather here, but I’ve just looked out and the sky has unexpectedly turned blue! Not as blue as in this lovely post, of course, but I better make the most of it while it lasts.

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      1. I agree that Lisbon is a lovely city, but it was spoiled for me two years ago when my sister and I witnessed the a pocket of a male tourist being picked and had to give statements to the Police which took up most of our day. My sister lives in Sweden and recognises them more easily as they are plagued with them as well, so she was watching. The episode didn’t take away from Lisbon’s charm but it did leave a shadow and a memory I’d rather forget – I was conned by the ‘look-out’ who convinced me she was Portuguese collecting for a charity. I didn’t even catch on that her English accent was perfect and not as a Portuguese would speak it. I kicked myself later when it dawned on me how stupid I’d been. I have almost the same picture of Lison taken from the Parque de Eduaro VII and hopefully i will return one day to stroll the delightful streets of that engaging city.

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      2. I think I mentioned in one of my earlier posts that I was pickpocketed last trip, Mari. That’s why it’s taken me so long to return there. All cities have a dark side and I was glad that I gave Lisbon another chance. I have a far better impression now than when I left last time, after spending the best part of the day at police headquarters. 🙂 🙂

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