Jo’s Monday walk : Loving Lagos

It’s not often that I venture to the western end of the Algarve but, when I do, the city of Lagos is a particular favourite of mine. I knew that my daughter loved it too, from a fleeting visit about 10 years ago.  What better excuse did I need for a bit of footloose and fancy free?

The old side of town is a warren of twisting and turning switchback streets, with fleeting glimpses of interest as you whizz around a harepin bend.  Lisa commented that she was glad not to be in the driving seat, but we put our faith in my valiant other half, and eventually we found parking, way up beyond the castle walls.  I had not realised that they were so extensive.  Following our noses led us to an interesting wall or two of graffiti.

Truth be known, these days some of Lagos is a little bit tacky with touristy shops and restaurants- a victim of its own success and having some of the Algarve’s most inviting beaches.  But I can overlook a street or two that resembles Albufeira because this is a very engaging place.  It has history and beautiful churches, and it has character in spades, if you go looking.

Peeping between the narrow streets, the spires of several churches catch the eye.  I knew Santo Antonio by reputation, but was a little disappointed not to be able to share the astounding architecture and elaborately gilded wood with you.  Photographs were forbidden, but I did manage to find a link.  On the main square, Santa Maria was much less elaborate, but still beautiful.

Lagos has a history stretching back over 2000 years.  Originally a Celtic settlement, it was colonised by the Romans (as Lacobriga), valuable to them for its fine harbour.  When the Moors arrived in the 8th century, they added fortifications of castle and walls, and established trading with North Africa.  Henry the Navigator made Lagos the centre of Portuguese maritime explorations in the 15th century, the caravels venturing further and further south along the west coast of Africa, hoping to find a route to India.  In 1434 Gil Eanes succeeded in rounding the cape but sadly, within 10 years, the slave trade was established.  Lagos has the dubious distinction of having Europe’s first slave market.  Prince Henry received one fifth of the selling price of each slave, helping him to fund further expeditions.

With the death of Henry, Lagos continued to receive shipments of goods and slaves but its role was gradually eclipsed by the rising star of Lisbon.  A string of forts was constructed along the coast to defend from pirates and neighbouring Spain.  Among them, Ponta da Bandeira Fort, which sits so picturesquely on the headland.  From 1576 to 1755, Lagos was capital of the Algarve, but the earthquake of 1755 destroyed much of the old town.  Some of the castle walls remain but many of the current buildings date from 17th century.

Knowing my tendency to linger by the sea, I was allowed only the merest glimpse of the fort before being whisked away to lunch.  The lure of white sangria just about did the trick.  Over lunch we discussed ‘where next’ and Lisa made it a mission to find for me the landmark ‘green building’ which appears in many images of Lagos.  We were, of course, permitted to dawdle by the odd shop.  Ingenious use is being made of cork these days- everything from tiny purses to sandals, with jewellery and even clever fans.  Eye catching balustrades and tumbles of flowers were duly noted.

Lisa was following Google maps (isn’t technology a wonderful thing?) in a haphazard sort of way.  There were simply too many distractions.  Crossing Praça Gil Eanes I could see just a snippet of Ribeira Bensafrim, the river that pours out into the ocean.  We climbed gently and found ourselves in a square looking at a very colourful building, which proved to be the living science centre. ( Centro Ciência Viva de Lagos)

A restaurant terrace looked out onto the marina and busy river.  No sign of the desired ‘green building’ but, as we retraced our steps downhill, there it was in all its glory.  How had we missed it?  ‘Azulejos e postais‘- Tiles and postcards, as it is now known, on Praça de Luis Camoes.

Close up the tiles were very beautiful, and the owner was delighted to discuss the restoration of his building.  Mission accomplished, it remained to find our way back uphill to where we left the car.  I hope you loved Lagos too, and enjoyed our ramble together.

I’m back in the UK now, so hopefully ‘normal’ service will resume, but I may be a while catching up.  Thanks so much for your loyalty, and for staying with me.  Once again I have a bumper bundle of walks to share, so do please find time to visit these lovely folk.  And if you’d like to share a walk with me, just follow the logo.  Many thanks!

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Everybody should see this place once in their lifetime, so thanks, Lady Lee :

Santorini

While nobody does spectacular better than Debbie :

Slow and exposed walk along the Thames

Drake treated me to the warm glow of Autumn in a place that I love :

Colorful Autumn

And Elaine took me to her pretty home patch, too :

Early November walk by the canal

While Jill took me to a place that I’ve long wanted to visit :

Come explore Cadiz with me

And Cadyluck Leedy took me to an area that I don’t know at all!

Jo’s Monday Walk : Dinan, France

Liesbet has some spectacular photos, taken between house sits :

Southern Utah’s National Parks

And Violet takes me waterfalling

Inglis Falls

I did think Silly Back Lane an odd place name, but then I looked again.  Cheers, Jude!

Siblyback Lake

But then Woolly made me sad all over again :

Jo’s-Monday-Walk-Wk43_Gibraltar-Bunker

There’s something so distinctive about French windows and shutters.  And about Tobias; style :

Beynac, Part One

Beynac, Part Two

I’m really enjoying  Carol’s ‘close to home’ series, with their wonderful details.  Just look at these trees!

BYO Birdseed

Becky’s cheating a little bit with this one :

Glass, iron and steel at Kew

But on Friday morning I was sitting right here, waiting for the ferry to the Ilha.  Sunny memories :

A short stroll at Quatro Aguas

I have a gazillion photos to sort, including those from Lumiere in Durham last night.  Amazing stuff!  It’s forecast a damp week so it looks like I’ll have time to spare.  Whatever you get up to, I hope it’s a good week for you.  Take care!

 

 

 

103 comments

  1. Pingback: Arrival of the good feeling | Le Drake Noir

  5. The image of the woman painted on the wall is so life like it seems to be three dimensional. I never would have thought to tile the outside of a building but it would make it very low maintenance. Setting and grouting all those tile would take quite some time. Very impressive.

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  6. Late to comment, I know, slapped wrists, but I did enjoy every minute of this walk. The first mural looks a lot like your Lisa, but I’m sure you didn’t have time to be splashing paint about! We had about an hour in Lagos as part of a day trip we took from Carvoeiro so only saw a little of the old walls and the marina so it has been fun to see more and especially those beautiful tiles. The green house is very pretty, but unknown to me! And what happened to the white sangria you promised??? 😀

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    1. I thought that about the mural too. 🙂 🙂 We probably did a very similar trip when she was in the Algarve 10 years ago- Silves was the main stop, then Lagos and Cabo S. Vicente. What happened to it? She encouraged me to dink it, of course! Now, if you’d been there… 🙂

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  8. What a walk! So much information, interesting places and wonderful photos. I felt myself being there. Well, it was many years ago when we made a quick visit there and it was due to the name Lagos. 🙂

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  9. You made great use of a bit of footloose and fancy free. A onderful first mural, tiled walls, aview through a golden arch to autumn trees, and do I detect a boat or two hidden a way somewhere??? All with a garnish of daughter.

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    1. I was so restrained! I had a photo of her in the archway to the castle but I didn’t have permission to use it, and I got told off last time. 🙂 🙂 But you could feel her presence, (Leo was home with a migraine- I must email you when I’ve a minute) and that first mural really reminds me of her. 🙂 🙂

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  15. Well what a lot to see, and that’s where Nigerian Lagos got it’s name. The marina is gorgeous, and the buildings, not too keen on the green of the ‘building’ but the tiles and the house itself are very pretty.If I had to guess I’d have said the science centre is an arts centre! What did you think of the grafitti, it’s a bit weird for my taste? I’d definitely be happy there for a day or two. Thanks for this one darling, always happy to see more of the Algarve!

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    1. I really loved the opening shot, Gilly, and the ‘body’ graffiti on the city walls. The others, not so much. It has a good atmosphere, even if it’s a bit too commercial, and you can always find quirky side streets. Wouldn’t go there in Summer though 🙂 🙂

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  16. Lagos looks a charming place Jo – the green building is so pretty and unusual with all the tiles love the colour! Fascinating description of all the history too! With all the beautiful buildings, beaches, gorgeous weather not to mention the sangria can see why you love the place! Hope you enjoyed your extended break and it’s not too cold back in the UK. Hope you’re having a good week 🙂

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    1. Hiya darlin! I have to confess I’ve retreated into the blog today. 🙂 🙂 Well, after a bit of housework and putting the slow cooker on. It’s not as cold as when we landed but it’s gone a bit grey and mournful. 😦 Oh, well…

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  18. That walk was so stunning and so much to see in one walk. I can understand how annoying it would be when not allowed to take photos of that beautiful church (I followed your link, thank you for including it) So much history too. I can understand you wanting to live there permanently. I had a walk planned this week but it has just rained and blown a gale all week. They forecast fine for Friday then back to what is now normal, more rain…So I have plans, I also want to get out sketching…

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    1. That’s what draws me to the Algarve, Pauline. It’s not just beaches, but beautiful buildings and lovely countryside too. Not an easy place to grow bored. 🙂 🙂 Now I’m back in the UK I’ve remembered why I started to blog… Winter! 🙂

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