It was not a promising beginning! I stuck my head out of Edinburgh’s Waverley Station into damp and dreary grey skies. No-one gave the bedraggled looking ice cream vendor a second look. Still I was bubbling over with excitement at a precious few hours in this beautiful city and determined to make the best of it. Where better to start than The Royal Mile?
Approximately a mile long (surprise!), it rolls gently downhill from Edinburgh Castle to the gates of Holyrood Palace. Did you know that miles can vary in length? I was astounded to find that they can indeed, and that a Scots mile is longer than an English mile! No wonder my feet got tired in Edinburgh. The English statute mile was established by a Weights and Measures Act of Parliament, in 1593, during the reign of Elizabeth I. “A mile shall contain 8 Furlongs, every Furlong 40 Poles, and every Pole shall contain 16 Foot and a half”. For more clarity, read this link.
You will observe that Edinburgh has its share of ‘tourist tat’ interspersed with venerable historic buildings. There’s room for all. The Royal Mile is actually comprised of five consecutive streets- Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High St., Canongate and Abbey Strand. I joined High St. directly from North Bridge and was ambling down towards the Palace. Many closes and alleys invite further inspection, but I’m drawn towards the World’s End pub on the corner of St. Mary’s St., a former city boundary. After the English victory over the Scots, in 1513 at the Battle of Flodden, a city wall was built around Edinburgh. Parts of the Flodden Wall still exist in the pub foundations. Brass studs in the road mark the former position of the Netherbow Port, a gateway in the wall.
John Knox House stands on the opposite corner. The gateway was removed in 1764 to improve the flow of traffic where the road narrows. Beyond lies Canongate, literally ‘the canon’s way’, used by the Augustinian monks from Holyrood Palace. Until 1856 Canongate was not only a street, but the name of the surrounding burgh. It was separate from Edinburgh and outside of the Flodden Wall.
The damp persisted, but it didn’t stop my enjoyment of a totally unexpected city garden. I had stumbled upon Dunbar’s Close, complete with wonderfully cobwebby Scottish thistle. This 17th century garden was created by Sir Patrick Geddes, an eminent Scots biologist who was aware of the relationship between health and environment. It was restored to its current condition in 1978.
At the bottom of the Royal Mile there’s a choice between the modern and inspiring Scottish Parliament Building and historic Holyrood Palace. You know which I chose, but I neglected to allow you a little glimpse inside. I think you might enjoy this 2 minute video.
Suitably impressed, it was time to make my way back up the Royal Mile. This time I continued on to Lawnmarket, and the Mercat Cross on Parliament Square. Royal proclamations and the summoning of Parliament are traditionally announced here, and a bubble blower was having fun with the crowd. St. Giles Cathedral, on the opposite side of the square, dates from the 14th Century and is the High Kirk of Edinburgh .
The real piper, or a dummy at the traditional kilt store? I liked them both. I had reached the Bank of Scotland, in all its magnificence. Have you noticed that the clouds have lifted and at last the sky is blue? Curious about The Mound, I headed that way. Apparently it’s an artificial hill, built to fill in a loch that was part of ancient Edinburgh’s defence system.
I don’t know about you but I was getting tired and hungry. Up on The Mound, I found the perfect thing.
Haggis, neeps and tatties, of course. Now, I’m not going to take you too much further but my digs are at the far end of Princes St. I decided to walk through Princes St. Gardens. You’d like a quick look, wouldn’t you? The mist is just rising over the castle.
Did you spot the statue of Wojtek and the Bear? You probably don’t know the amazing story of the bear who went to war. A group of young Polish girls were taking his photo, but moved aside for me, with a giggle or two.
I’m going to say my farewells here. I checked into my accommodation, then did the Water of Leith walk that I shared last week. You can get back to our start point at Waverley Station by tram, if you’d like. I never did manage a tram ride in Edinburgh. Maybe next time?
Hope you enjoyed this walk. I’m going to be putting my feet up for a week or two, but first I have some wonderful shares. Thank you so much to everybody for your enthusiasm and support. My apologies that I won’t be able to share for a while, so please do make the most of the following :
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I cover a decent few miles, and so does my good friend Becky. But sl-ow-ly!
Strolling along the Thames Path- part one!
‘Leaving on a jet plane, don’t know when I’ll be back again..’ Or boat, in Drake’s case :
Them boots are made for… Cardinal!
I hope Lady Lee has good boots too!
It’s many a long year since I was in lovely Inverary. Let Anabel show you around :
Islands around Toronto are always a novelty. Go hopping with Jackie!
And look at local murals with Trav Trails :
What would you expect to see in Bern, Switzerland? Let Laia show you the sights :
Bern : music, roses and … bears?
Making me yearn for the Algarve, Miriam fills my senses with salt spray :
Some of you will know Kathe from Six word Saturday. She’s sampling a little Scots whisky on this walk :
Yesterday’s short walk to Muir of Ord’s Distillery
And Liesbet is keeping us fit with a bit of rock scrambling :
WW- Gorham Mountain Train in Acadia NP, Maine
But there’s a gentler way too :
The Park Loop Road in Acadia National Park, ME
Susan has made it to the Baltic, and found a parade and some idyllic shops :
Or how about a crazy but beautiful Art Party, with Kathrin?
Get those trumpets ready to sound the fanfare! Here comes Badfish :
Strolling Through Prague : One fine day- Part 1
There won’t be another Monday walk until 17th October. Sounds ages away, doesn’t it? I’ll try to keep in touch but I don’t have WiFi in the Algarve. It’s wonderful just to switch off from social media and indulge in friends and places. I’ll miss you, so please take care of yourselves while I’m gone.
Adoring the post to such an extent! Have a brilliant day:)…Fabulous walk, Jo! The more I see of Edinburgh, the more I like!
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Many thanks to you and sorry for the late reply.
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That really helps to push Edinburgh up on my “Bucket List”.
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Every little helps Charlie. I’m in the Algarve right now x
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I recognized the first photo from my trip to Edinburgh:) nice photos!
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Lovely place! Thanks for your company..
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I’m going to confess that the main thing I remember from walking the Mile when I was 12, apart from the castle and palace, was the toy museum. But then, you would, wouldn’t you, as a child. Thanks for taking me to some other places. Hope you’re enjoying your time away. 🙂
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I really did , H, but there were complications. Thanks for your lovely presence here.
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Edinburgh is charming with or without the sun and blue skies 🙂 Enjoy your stay, Jo!
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Thanks a lot, Indah!
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I adore Edinburgh, Jo. In fact, in the Jaspa’s Journey books, it becomes my home away from home.
I’ve chosen to take you on a walk around the UNESCO World Heritage Site fortresses of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico.
https://jaspasjourney.wordpress.com/2016/09/28/the-forts-and-tunnels-of-old-san-juan-puerto-rico/
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Thanks, Jaspa. Having a rough ride because Dad died whilst we were in the Algarve. Back to you soon.
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Oh no! My sincere sympathies, Jo.
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Nice to see Edinburgh again. We missed this year’s fringe but will be back next. Here’s a walk I did a while ago for your collection https://geofflepard.com/2016/09/28/crystal-palace-to-grove-park-capitalring-walking/
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Troubled times, Geoff. Dad died last week. Many thanks!
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oh I’m so sorry; take care
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I did not know that a Scottish mile is longer than ours! I really want to visit Edinburgh! Thanks for showing me the sights. Off to try and get some haggis, neeps and tatties. YUM!
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Many thanks, Tink! All the very best to you and the ‘little un’. 🙂
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You really did make the most of your time in Edinburgh, Jo. I love that garden, even in the mist. And the “Haggis, neeps and tatties” look delicious. I’m always enticed by salty rather than sweet, although I’ll eat my share of sweets as well. 🙂 What about those three street performers? Is that real or a statue?
Have a great trip to Tavira. I’d like to join your Monday walk for next time, even though I guess it will be several weeks. We took a very long walk here: https://catbirdineurope.wordpress.com/2016/09/28/north-iceland-the-black-lavafield-of-leirhnjukur-at-krafla/
See you soon! 🙂
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Struggling right now, Cathy. Dad died whilst I was in the Algarve. Be in touch soon.
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I’m so sorry, Jo. I knew that as you told me on Facebook messenger. Please take good care of yourself. I wish I were there to give you a big hug. I’m so sorry for your loss.
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Lost track of who knows, Cathy. Hugs!
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I’m sure, you have a lot of people who care about you, so you want to make sure everyone knows what’s going on. Just read your lovely little memorial to your dad on your blog. I’m so sad you’ve lost him. Love and hugs to you and your family, Jo. xxx
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Wunderschöne Bilder wünsche einen schönen Tag lieber Gruß Gislinde
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Vielen danke, Gislinde 🙂
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I always learn something new in your articles Jo and now I know that miles are not all the same! I enjoyed the video – such a beautiful interior but doesn’t seem to done its inhabitants much good! I must get myself to Edinburgh some day! 🙂
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Hi Rosemay. Excuse my late arrival but Dad died last week. So much still to do before the funeral on Tuesday.
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Oh Jo am so sorry to hear that and am sorry too that I’ve only just come on here and seen your message. Sincere condolences and thinking of you at this difficult time, take care and lots of love xxx
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A beautiful post, Jo, especially the last photo. Have a good time off!
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Thanks a lot, Paula 🙂 Just doing last minute things, then t’ai chi and off to Leeds to meet James for a swift meal before we fly at teatime. Leaving hugs behind. 🙂 🙂 Take care of yourself!
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Be safe! xx
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It’s great walk, Jo. We’ve done it – looks like you had pretty good weather, Any time when it’s not pouring, we consider a plus!
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It’s a lovely city, Noelle, and joy of joys, it wasn’t cold! 🙂 🙂
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Have a nice vacation Jo and thanks for the tour of Edimburgh. Here’s to share with you the gorgeous Shell House ‘Folly’ at Ballymaloe:
http://www.pret-a-vivre.com/2016/09/ballymaloe-cooking-school-shell-house.html
BiTi
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Sounds fun, BiTi. 🙂 Thanks a lot!
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beautiful photos……
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Thanks a lot, Sudhir. 🙂 Nice to meet you!
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😃😃😃
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That balancing act on the last gallery, I am baffled. How in the hell? And are you gonna tell us about the war with a bear?
Fascinating tidbits about the mile length and the World’s End.
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No idea. I have difficulty just standing up! Link to Wikipedia for the story in the post x
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I really enjoyed this walk, because the only time I’ve walked the Royal Mile was after a night at the Edinburgh Tattoo. Everyone was leaving together and it was like a can of sardines all packed in together and slowly moving down the hill. No time for looking around! Next time I will make sure to go at a better time.
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Good morning! Were you suitably romanced by Castle Howard? Give my love to Elaine and enjoy your time together. Best wishes to Glen and Melissa. I have limited time now before the Algarve. Take good care xxx
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Oh, it was so beautiful. We spent a long time wandering in the gardens before going into the house. It was nice to spend the time with Melissa too, before she headed back to Manchester on the train late in the afternoon. Enjoy your holiday!
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The weather turned out well too. I love the place. Thanks a lot xxx
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