Jo’s Monday walk : Rosedale, sheep and heather

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The North York Moors are all about the sheep!  They have a very important role to play in managing these moors.  In late summer, plum and purple swathes of heather swaddle the moorland.  Cocooned in this bounty, red grouse nest, feeding their young on juicy shoots of heather.  For centuries sheep grazing has been the traditional way of keeping the heather short and encouraging new growth. Without the heather, highly invasive bracken would take over, destroying the habitat.

I love the wildness of the Moors and can’t get enough of them in their rose-hued mantle. The weather up there has a mind of its own, and I was a little disappointed to leave sunshine at home and descend into Rosedale in gloom.  Nothing for it but to hope that the rain kept off.

The calves were feeling frisky, the field of sweetcorn swayed in the breeze, and at the camp site someone had the kettle ready.  As luck would have it, the wind eventually swept away the clouds, but you can never be quite sure.

The walk starts beside Sycamore Farm, just before the village of Rosedale Abbey.  A track leads downhill and over a stream.  Crossing a field, Blakey Ridge looms ahead.  Don’t worry!  I don’t expect you to climb to the heights.  Instead, turn right to follow a lane through the tiny hamlet of Thorgill.

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Suddenly the sun peeps out, and what could be more tempting than this flight of steps?  My husband shakes his head.  The sign says Farndale, and that means up and over the top.  I can’t resist just a quick look at the tumble of cottages.  And a plum tree, alone in a field.

Over the top?  Maybe another day.  For now it’s gently upwards through Rosedale’s peaceful valley.  And look how blue the sky has become!

Looking over the drystone wall, I spotted some Rosebay Willowherb.  A fancy name for a wildflower.  You probably don’t remember but there was a big clump of it in my last walk. Badfish asked me jokingly if you could smoke it.  His latest post reveals a much more serious side. Don’t miss it!

Such a rural landscape and yet there are still traces of an industrial past.  If you look into the distance you can see the dramatic remains of the East Mines, and the colour of the water in the River Seven might give you a clue what was mined there.

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Rosedale East Mines opened in 1865.  Visible today are the remains of the calcining kilns, where ironstone was roasted to eliminate impurities and reduce its weight.  The iron ore was taken by rail from Rosedale over the moorland to Ingleby, where it was lowered down the northern edge of the moors by tramway on the 1-in-5 gradient Ingleby Incline.  It would have been anything but peaceful as up to 15 wagons at a time were steam hauled around the top of the valley.

It was brutally hard work in the mines.  It has been described as a ‘regular slaughter place’ where ‘both men and horses are getting killed and lamed every day’.  Despite this the mines continued in operation until the General Strike of 1926.

These days the silence is only broken by birdsong, cows lowing and the occasional growl of a tractor.  The farm with an idyllic view had a runaway mother hen as I passed by.  She clucked anxiously back and forth, trying to chivvy her offspring back through the fence.  I watched at a discreet distance till I was sure all were safe, before heading past the former miner’s cottages and back to my start point.

The village of Rosedale Abbey is barely a mile down the road.  It was named for a Cistercian Priory, founded in 1158, of which only a fragment remains today.  The main attraction is the village green, and a choice of two cafes or a pub.  I can highly recommend Graze on the Green.  One of the best scones I’ve ever eaten. (and you know I’ve had my share!)

Nutrition accomplished, it’s time to go and seek out some of that glorious heather.  The road back across the moors dips and twirls, offering up breathtaking views as you crest Blakey Ridge.   ‘Pull in, pull in!’ I admonished the partner, careless of what might be behind us on the narrow road.

Some of you know what happens next.  The edges of the moors road have a little ditch where the rain drains off.  Out I leapt and straight into a ditch, with a sickening jar to my ankle.  Why do these things happen to me?  Careless, that’s why!  It was some minutes before I could take the desired photos, but here they are.  The sheep never even blinked.

I’m still a bit of a hop-along but I’m getting there.  So glad you could join me.  The Rosedale Abbey website offers a wealth of helpful details, and I even noted a ‘Tea Shop walk’.  Sound promising?

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Huge thanks to everybody for offering up your walks to share, and for ambling along on mine.  I love your company.  If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  Settle in now for a good read!

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Inspiration must surely be Drake’s middle name :

Whence inspiration arises

Food, fun and frolics in Canada, with Jackie :

Let’s Go to The EX!

If you’re still hungry, head on over to Violet’s place :

Ribfest

Nothing I like more than a touch of Capability Brown!  And fuzzy sheep!  Thanks, Elaine :

Charlecote Park

A lovely old house and a sculpture trail sounds good to me.  BiTi will show you round :

Ballymaloe House- Part 1 

A Yorkshireman in NZ has found a place that looks like home.  Please go and say hi?

Pineapple Track, Dunedin

My favourite early riser takes us for a twirl by the Wisła.  Thanks, Meg.  You’re always a joy to accompany :

Vignettes from a morning walk, 8

Random, but comprehensive!  That’s Prague through Cardinal’s lens :

A Walk Through Praha

From Italy next I’d like to introduce Discovermarche, with a fun walk :

Li Vurgacci : among waterfalls and rock monsters 

And if you’ve always wondered about the German capital, take a trip with Kathrin :

Berlin, I love you!

That’s it for another week.  I’m hoping to post on Thursday but I might be a bit slow with my comments.  I’ll be in Edinburgh, waiting to meet up with the delectable Jude.  Take care till then!

 

 

 

139 comments

  1. Out of all of your walks, this one is one of my favorites. I love walking across moors (not that I have the opportunity to do so very often) and encountering sheep is always a highlight. If I’m ever in that particular area, I will have to check out that cafe. It’s been so long since I’ve had a good scone.

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  2. Absolutely stunning . . . you are so lucky to have all of this, on days when the weather is like this why go to the Algarve 😉
    Do hope by the time I type this your ankle feels much better and that we no longer need to call you Cassidy x

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    1. Butch? 🙂 🙂 Just scrambling a few thoughts together for tomorrow’s trip to Edinburgh. The weather has done a complete reversal this morning and Jude will be shivering at the Water Gardens in Alnwick! I’ve promised her I’ll do all my running up and down Arthur’s Seat and wear myself out before she gets there. Hugs, Becky! All good with you?

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      1. Hopalong, as in the song!!!!
        Have a fabulous time in Edinburgh, and hope the sun and warmth returns for you both.
        I in a grump this morning after challenging 36hrs with parents, builders next door blocking our drive and getting locked out of an online account . . . .however latter now sorted, its sunny and I’ve got to do lots of baking today so hopefully by lunchtime I will have found my equilibrium again!
        Bxx
        PS Expect a video of the Arthur’s Seat jog!

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  8. I bet it’s looking as glorious again today if the weather is anything like it is here Jo … it turned out nice after all ! Well apart from that ditch accident 😦 I hope you’ll give it a chance to recover but it seems not Lol walking along riverbanks yesterday tsk tsk . It all reminded me of a few months ago after spotting a ruaway peacock of all things on our local common I got AJ to stop the car , grabbed camera and ran over the road and immediately fell into a ditch collapsing down onto my knees 😀 Peacock needless to say out ran me .
    Lovely open landscape … hard to believe its dark past industrial and social history on a day like that … I could go one of those scones right now 🙂

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    1. I’ve been seriously good, lolling in the garden reading about Edinburgh all morning, Poppy 🙂 Off to meet a friend for coffee now but I promise to sit down and drink. No scones, I don’t think 😦 Hugs, darlin’.

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  9. Looking up instead of down is one of the hazards of blogging! I hope your ankle is on the mend now. As much as I’m revelling in all the gorgeous scenery we’re seeing on our UK trip, I do love the cottages. I like to imagine what it would be like to live in one.

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    1. I was just admiring your shots of the Peaks 🙂 Such a lovely part of the world. A bit more rugged than Yorkshire which can be postcard pretty at times. Not something to complain about 🙂 🙂 Enjoy the Lakes! When do you go?

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  11. Apart from everything else, you make me long for a scone! Plain, or pumpkin and date. Not fussy. But the scone isn’t the only delight: the glimpse of landscape through roofs; the enticing stairs; The stone walls; the greenness; and those magnificent skies for which you sacrificed an ankle. Is it better yet? Give it a gentle hug.

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    1. Never had pumpkin and date but it sounds blissful. 🙂 Sick of the silly ankle, Meg, but there are many worse things. 🙂 I shall try to have a ‘foot up’ in the garden sort of day, but… Always lovely to have a hug!

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  12. A lovely walk, Jo. Sorry about your little accident. I hope your ankle heals quickly. Cows and sheep always look so calm. Great photos of these placid creatures. The soup and bread looks so delicious. I think I’d choose it over the scone this time. 🙂

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    1. It’s not like Mick to go for the healthy option but I have to be truthful and admit that I had the scone, Ad (and a glass of wine 🙂 ) Thanks, hon. Did you get everything done you needed to at the weekend?

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  14. My goodness, what a surprise all that sun was. Bessie the cow and her fabulous pasture was just gorgeous😃
    I,m away from my computer (heading to Portugal just ahead of you), so I will try to link my walk to you, but the technology may be beyond me😞
    Happy tramping about -Susan

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  17. Pingback: Speedy walk on water | Le Drake Noir

  18. Glad to hear you are improving in the hop a long department Jo. I smiled at your Hubby shaking his head. Oh yes we are trying on these husbands. If i haven’t mentioned at least 50 times already, I LOVE sheep. So glad they stood so perfectly for you without blinking. Have a fabulous week and may the healing continue.

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  20. Glad you didn’t damage your ankle too much. I wish you a speedy and complete recovery. Thanks for taking me on that beautiful walk. Btw, you really should make a travel (guide) book from all your walks!

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    1. Thank you so much for that, Pit. 🙂 It has been suggested a couple of times that I write an e-book. Maybe a project for the winter. I’m too busy walking when it’s nice 🙂 🙂

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