Jo’s Monday walk : Rosedale, sheep and heather

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The North York Moors are all about the sheep!  They have a very important role to play in managing these moors.  In late summer, plum and purple swathes of heather swaddle the moorland.  Cocooned in this bounty, red grouse nest, feeding their young on juicy shoots of heather.  For centuries sheep grazing has been the traditional way of keeping the heather short and encouraging new growth. Without the heather, highly invasive bracken would take over, destroying the habitat.

I love the wildness of the Moors and can’t get enough of them in their rose-hued mantle. The weather up there has a mind of its own, and I was a little disappointed to leave sunshine at home and descend into Rosedale in gloom.  Nothing for it but to hope that the rain kept off.

The calves were feeling frisky, the field of sweetcorn swayed in the breeze, and at the camp site someone had the kettle ready.  As luck would have it, the wind eventually swept away the clouds, but you can never be quite sure.

The walk starts beside Sycamore Farm, just before the village of Rosedale Abbey.  A track leads downhill and over a stream.  Crossing a field, Blakey Ridge looms ahead.  Don’t worry!  I don’t expect you to climb to the heights.  Instead, turn right to follow a lane through the tiny hamlet of Thorgill.

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Suddenly the sun peeps out, and what could be more tempting than this flight of steps?  My husband shakes his head.  The sign says Farndale, and that means up and over the top.  I can’t resist just a quick look at the tumble of cottages.  And a plum tree, alone in a field.

Over the top?  Maybe another day.  For now it’s gently upwards through Rosedale’s peaceful valley.  And look how blue the sky has become!

Looking over the drystone wall, I spotted some Rosebay Willowherb.  A fancy name for a wildflower.  You probably don’t remember but there was a big clump of it in my last walk. Badfish asked me jokingly if you could smoke it.  His latest post reveals a much more serious side. Don’t miss it!

Such a rural landscape and yet there are still traces of an industrial past.  If you look into the distance you can see the dramatic remains of the East Mines, and the colour of the water in the River Seven might give you a clue what was mined there.

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Rosedale East Mines opened in 1865.  Visible today are the remains of the calcining kilns, where ironstone was roasted to eliminate impurities and reduce its weight.  The iron ore was taken by rail from Rosedale over the moorland to Ingleby, where it was lowered down the northern edge of the moors by tramway on the 1-in-5 gradient Ingleby Incline.  It would have been anything but peaceful as up to 15 wagons at a time were steam hauled around the top of the valley.

It was brutally hard work in the mines.  It has been described as a ‘regular slaughter place’ where ‘both men and horses are getting killed and lamed every day’.  Despite this the mines continued in operation until the General Strike of 1926.

These days the silence is only broken by birdsong, cows lowing and the occasional growl of a tractor.  The farm with an idyllic view had a runaway mother hen as I passed by.  She clucked anxiously back and forth, trying to chivvy her offspring back through the fence.  I watched at a discreet distance till I was sure all were safe, before heading past the former miner’s cottages and back to my start point.

The village of Rosedale Abbey is barely a mile down the road.  It was named for a Cistercian Priory, founded in 1158, of which only a fragment remains today.  The main attraction is the village green, and a choice of two cafes or a pub.  I can highly recommend Graze on the Green.  One of the best scones I’ve ever eaten. (and you know I’ve had my share!)

Nutrition accomplished, it’s time to go and seek out some of that glorious heather.  The road back across the moors dips and twirls, offering up breathtaking views as you crest Blakey Ridge.   ‘Pull in, pull in!’ I admonished the partner, careless of what might be behind us on the narrow road.

Some of you know what happens next.  The edges of the moors road have a little ditch where the rain drains off.  Out I leapt and straight into a ditch, with a sickening jar to my ankle.  Why do these things happen to me?  Careless, that’s why!  It was some minutes before I could take the desired photos, but here they are.  The sheep never even blinked.

I’m still a bit of a hop-along but I’m getting there.  So glad you could join me.  The Rosedale Abbey website offers a wealth of helpful details, and I even noted a ‘Tea Shop walk’.  Sound promising?

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Huge thanks to everybody for offering up your walks to share, and for ambling along on mine.  I love your company.  If you’d like to join me, details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page.  Just click on the logo.  Settle in now for a good read!

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Inspiration must surely be Drake’s middle name :

Whence inspiration arises

Food, fun and frolics in Canada, with Jackie :

Let’s Go to The EX!

If you’re still hungry, head on over to Violet’s place :

Ribfest

Nothing I like more than a touch of Capability Brown!  And fuzzy sheep!  Thanks, Elaine :

Charlecote Park

A lovely old house and a sculpture trail sounds good to me.  BiTi will show you round :

Ballymaloe House- Part 1 

A Yorkshireman in NZ has found a place that looks like home.  Please go and say hi?

Pineapple Track, Dunedin

My favourite early riser takes us for a twirl by the Wisła.  Thanks, Meg.  You’re always a joy to accompany :

Vignettes from a morning walk, 8

Random, but comprehensive!  That’s Prague through Cardinal’s lens :

A Walk Through Praha

From Italy next I’d like to introduce Discovermarche, with a fun walk :

Li Vurgacci : among waterfalls and rock monsters 

And if you’ve always wondered about the German capital, take a trip with Kathrin :

Berlin, I love you!

That’s it for another week.  I’m hoping to post on Thursday but I might be a bit slow with my comments.  I’ll be in Edinburgh, waiting to meet up with the delectable Jude.  Take care till then!

 

 

 

139 comments

  1. Jo, hope you aren’t in pain! Fascinating walk, never knew mines were so high up on the moors. Beautiful views all around and I had to laugh at your husband making sure you stay on course. Up and over for another day perhaps? This morning just received a postcard from a friend in North Yorkshire and I’ve been coming back the to pictures on the front all day with longing and admiration.

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    1. I just rather stupidly spent a morning walking the riverbanks in Durham with Mick, so I’ve got the foot strapped and up at the moment. 🙂 Can’t resist making the most of the nice weather. It’s set to change at the weekend 😦 Yes, definitely up and over another day, or a loop walk that takes us closer to the mines. Thanks, Annika 🙂

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    1. Mick had the soup and tuna sandwich. I was extremely naughty and had the scone and a glass of wine. But I walk all the calories off 🙂 🙂 Thanks for your company, Paula. I know time is precious 🙂 A hug or 2 to see you through the week 🙂

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  5. What a glorious day you ended up with after your dreary morning, Jo. Hurting your ankle while jumping out of a car to take pictures sounds exactly like something I would do. It’s your enthusiasm that gets you every time! I hope it’s better now. It was well worth it to get those pictures, especially if it heals quickly. Thanks for showing the pictures of your scones. I always like seeing food pictures. And I love the sheep everywhere; they remind me of Iceland! 🙂

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  6. Oh dear – I am sorry about your ankle, I hope it gets better soon. Purely selfishly I am glad that you made the leap from the car to take the photos though – they are lovely. 🙂 Thanks for the walk, and how nice of the sky to clear and the sun to come out just for us.

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  9. Lovely walk, Jo – and I’m back in the UK so I’ve been able to catch up with some of your other contributors, some interesting new (to me) ones. My blog reading has been a bit random for the last few weeks!

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  10. Farndale daffodil trail I think I am right in remembering. So I must have been somewhere near this area. Will look it up once I have a more consistent wifi. Don’t walk too much on that ankle – save it for Edinburgh 🙂

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    1. Too late with the advice! Riverside in Durham today and a very nice cafe we hadn’t tried before. 🙂 I’m emailing you tonight. I presume you still check e’s when you’re away, if you get chance? Yes, the Farndale daffs are over the other side, near Rievaulx.

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      2. Doing the wet crepe bandage as we speak 🙂 I did a riverside walk in Durham this morning which wasn’t entirely sensible! So unlike me! 🙂 Nice cafe too!

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  13. Rosedale Abbey….many years ago, walking with my parents in the area, I remember those lime kilns..and I recall them turning up on Tanita Tikaram’s Ancient Heart album cover. Oh that I could walk further, I would love to go back

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    1. It turned into such a lovely day, Sue! 🙂 As we drove down I was thinking ‘oh no- what have I done?’ Almost damp but not quite. 🙂 Sometimes it’s better when you get the sun back like that. Hope you have a lovely day today. Energy must be running high? (relatively 🙂 )

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  14. Rosedale is gorgeous. I loved the moors. Went youth hostelling there, aged 14/15, walked between Westerhope and Wilderhope with a full day crossing the moors. It was glorious. The heather was out then too. The soup looks nice. I could feel hungry.

    I read the Badfish post. Sad but well-written.

    Do feel for you about the ankle. Just glad for you that it wasn’t worse. Take care.

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    1. Nothing so dramatic as yours, Kate, I’m glad to say 🙂 I’m a fool to myself but I’ll be a long time dead 🙂 I just love being out there on the moors. I know we whinge about English weather but we wouldn’t have so much beauty if it was otherwise. Thanks a lot! And yes, BF is a darn good writer, though he larks about sometimes.

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  17. I was brought up in the forest and know well about animal encounters. Horses mostly and cows close second. The highland ones scared the hell out of me when a small boy. Pigs could be temperamental.. Hope your ankle is fine…

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  19. Cute little animals, drastic changes of weather, clean air and amazing views, everything that I love! A wonderful stroll in the picturesque place. I always feel so refreshed after walking with you!

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      1. Morning to you too, dear Jo! All is well in my part of this world. I’ve been on a vacation for some time, thus was offline status. However, I cam back to the game. Last week I published one post with a link to my short video about visit at the Film Studio. Thank you for your kind worry! So sweet of you! Hugs!

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