Today’s walk brings us full circle with where my Monday walks began, just over 2 years ago, in Greatham Creek. Doesn’t time fly? And have I worn you out yet? There are days when I feel quite weary myself.
On Wednesday I woke with that restlessness upon me. The sun was playing hide and seek with the clouds and I needed to be out. My partner in crime suggested Saltholme, the local nature reserve, but somehow that felt too tame. I don’t do compromise well, but we headed along the Seal Sands Road, in that direction. It’s an area I find very depressing, and if you saw my Forbidding skies on Thursday, you’ll know what’s coming.
Heavy industry crowds the skyline, and the power station’s ugly presence broods malignantly nearby. If you can ignore that, there’s a world of wildlife to explore. To give it it’s grandest title, this is Teesmouth National Nature Reserve, a site of more than 350 hectares.
Natural England have recently extended the footpaths and installed bird hides. Parking on Seal Sands Rd, you can cross over A178 (carefully- you don’t want to be run over by a bus!) and follow the path beside the creek, out towards the sea. In the distance you can see the Transporter Bridge, in Middlesbrough. Closer to hand, a family of swans usually enjoy the salt water.
Looking back, A178 spans the creek, and on the far shore industry looms, threateningly. But we won’t be intimidated. A ragged sign on the fence gives a clue to the area’s past. There are still defence structures to be seen, and if you are interested this document gives full details.
The skies alternately boil and shimmer, as I follow the path beside the creek, and along to the first bird hide.
If you click on the last shot you might be able to make out the windmills of the offshore wind farm. Here they look very distant, but it’s not so.
This is a remnant of the military installations, but history goes much further back. In Medieval times the area was important for its salt, which was extracted by boiling salt water until the liquid evaporated, leaving behind precious salt crystals. For thousands of years, the sea swept across the Tees estuary, exposing mudflats and sand bars as it ebbed. Defensive banks were built against the tides, changing the flow of the currents. Gradually the ground lost its saltiness and became fit for agriculture. Sheep grazed on the salt marshes, growing the thick fleeces sold by medieval monks to much of Europe.
A second bird hide but a distinct lack of wildlife, though the sign tells us of plenty. Maybe the birds are all at nearby Saltholme, where they will undoubtedly be better fed. And then, the strangeness of the brine fields.
The landscape changed enormously after World War II. In the 1960s the area east of A178 was intensively developed for brine fields and the storage of petrochemicals. Pollution in the estuary had been heavy, but when Natural England became involved the site became a Special Protection Area. Careful management and reclamation has helped to restore and maintain the natural habitat.
Returning along the creek, my sharp eyed companion spots a grey mammal, paddling his leisurely way out to sea. They are one of the great success stories of the nature reserve. 200 years ago a seal population of around 1000 lived in these mudflats. A survey in the 1930s failed to reveal any. They had been decimated by hunting and pollution. Today there are about 100 seals, and several pups are born each summer.
Thriving in the midst of all that ugliness. It’s good to know, isn’t it? The sign boards ask you to respect the seals privacy and remain behind the hide. While this may not be the prettiest Landscape, I do hope that you found it interesting.
I know how you all like a cuppa after a walk. RSPB Saltholme is just 2km south of this site, and the cafe has a panoramic lake view. The website includes a map and full details of the area.
Two years and more of walking. It must be time to put the kettle on! Many thanks to all of you who’ve supported me along the way, and made such wonderful contributions. Details of how to join me are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo. You’ll be made very welcome.
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Riverside walks are among my favourites. A smattering of history makes them even better. Thanks, Anabel!
Denzil is leading us intrepidly, step by step, across Belgium :
Jackie combines sunshine with some rather intriguing sculpture this week :
Liesbet takes us roaming about in Connecticut, just one last time :
A Walk in Housatonic Meadows State Park
Time spent with Drake is absolutely never wasted!
Ruth joins us again, amongst some beautiful tree ferns :
Something I know you won’t be able to resist! A trip to Narnia, with Debbie :
Just a little optimistic this early? Elaine goes looking for Bluebells :
Miriam’s got herself great company for her rather cloudy walk :
Jaspa’s walk was written with Easter very much in mind :
BiTi is in love with green. Colour themed walks? Not a bad idea!
Coincidentally, Geoff is already ahead in this game :
Please say hello to Patrick, who’s just starting a walking challenge :
And to lovely Pat, ‘living life almost gracefully’, in Florida :
This week Susan goes looking for seals, (Snap!) and trying not to tumble over cliffs!
While Pauline captures all of nature with her camera. Don’t miss this gem!
7 Day Nature Photo : Day 1- a walk in the national Park
That’s it for another week! Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. I have one more walk for you next week and then I will be missing for a little while. Have a great week everybody!
A note for Joanne : If you’re reading this, there’s a conversation between me and Bill Blackwell, who used to live on the creek, in the comments on my Greatham Creek post. It starts- “I am one of the lucky kids whose family had a boathouse on the creek. At 80years old my memories go back to when in my opinion the creek was at its best, with more people than seals,yet I very much enjoyed the photos.”
restlessjo 
beautiful skies, Jo! I love that you always see the good and beautiful even in the midst of uninviting landscapes. great pictures as always! 🙂 have a wonderful week! 🙂
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Many thanks, LolaWi 🙂 The seals are always good for a smile or two. Wishing you a great week too 🙂
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Jo I love that in the midst of what one could easily call a grim landscape is this magical success story of bring the deals back. Sometimes we have to look very hard for the bright and beautiful spots in this world. I think it is something you are brilliant at doing!
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Making the best of what you have, Sue. 🙂 I’m pretty lucky with what I have on hand most of the time. Thank you very much! Wishing you a great week 🙂
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Such a contrast… the natural beauty of wildlife against the ugliness created by humans! As I’m currently engaged in the A-Z Blogging Challenge with a theme of Wildlife Encounters, your post is very interesting, Jo.
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I shall come and encounter some wildlife with you in a little while, Susan. 🙂
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Thank you for showing how wild life will comeback given careful planning and the right circumstances – despite the industrialization of the area, success of this project is taking hold. I love this post Jo – have a wonderful week.
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Thanks so much, Mary! 🙂 I think you have to show all aspects. Not just the pretty stuff. That’s not life, is it? 🙂
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I agree Jo – it’s the reality of both equations living together peacefully and hopefully over time it will be a called a major success.
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You always give a really clear picture of your walking adventures, Jo, even if it’s industrial like today — I appreciate that. And it’s always good to see when land has been designated a preserve, and a species, like the harbour seals, has been revived.
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There are dunes in close proximity to the power station (not shown) Jet, and in Spring they have wild orchids in the grass. I’m not a fan of the area but it is wonderful that efforts are being made to preserve the natural habitat. 🙂
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These flat, bare landscapes are wonderful walks – makes you take time to think and then to rest your mind. Lovely.
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Generally speaking I don’t like this landscape, Susan, but the skies that day were immense. 🙂
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Somehow the darkish clouds are fitting in with the ugly industrial landscape. They make it look all the more threatening. Interesting that there’s a seal sanctuary in spite of this.
Have a great week,
Pit
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The seals were there first, Pit, and it’s good to know they’re now holding their own. I don’t mind the area too much with dramatic skies but I hate it when it’s grey. You too, Pit! 🙂 🙂
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An interesting walk, Jo. Do you ever sit down, except for a quick cuppa? Lovely to know those seals have a haven of their own. I don’t suppose they notice the ugliness of the landscape. You captured some really exquisite skies in your photos. Have a great week. 🙂
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You obviously don’t count the hours I spend bashing away at this keyboard, Ad. 🙂 🙂 I shall be ‘resting’ in Portugal soon. 🙂 Have a good week too!
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Thank you for showing me the seal sanctuary – I’m glad they have somewhere to call their own. We would love to visit some day
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Monkey would love them! 🙂 They get a good audience, Ting, and mostly they could care less about us humans. Which is how it should be. 🙂
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lovely photos and good to see the seals having a sanctuary- we humans are such a scourge upon this earth.
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We certainly have our moments, Kathe 😦 Thanks, hon!
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I’m taking us to the market today http://www.junkboattravels.blogspot.ca/2016/04/st-lawrence-market.html
We went to a seal sanctuary in New Zealand last year, so cute. Off to read your walk.
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Hang on- I’ll grab my shopping bag 🙂 🙂 Thanks, Jackie!
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Bleak but beautiful – thanks for taking me along on your walk! It’s heartening to hear the seals are staging a comeback. I got to swim with some pups when I was in the Galapagos – no touching, but they were fun!
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That must have been amazing, Noelle! 🙂
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Am glad to see the seals are thriving Jo – that is lovely to read 🙂 The skies look rather foreboding though!
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I did warn you 🙂 🙂 🙂
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Yes I am resigned to gloom and rain so sun will be a bonus!! 🙂
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Expect the unexpected 🙂
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At least you can never get bored with the English weather it keeps you guessing! 🙂
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Nature has a way of reclaiming the land from us humans. 🙂
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Natural England have done quite a lot to redress the balance, Christine- digging out and reclaiming some of the marsh. Nature will do the rest. 🙂
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Most definitely interesting and glad you posted for us to see! Seals are intriguing creatures. Glad they are thriving.
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Thanks a lot, Ruth! 🙂 The seals usually have a good audience, and pretty much turn a blind eye to us inferior beings. 🙂
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Well, that was a different sort of walk. A bit stark, a bit grim but lots interesting. And that’s really exciting about the seals. A success story amongst the mistakes of the past.
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I find the landscape really depressing on a grey day like today, Heather, but those skies had me enthralled. And you have to smile at a seal, don’t you? 🙂
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What a difference this walk to your normal bright and breezy saunters. But it is heartening to know that all that pollution can still be turned around and the seals are back. The sky is quite stunning. Wow 2 years Jo and still going strong. Thank you for hosting this challenge week after week I look forward to seeing where everyone takes us. Are you going to Poland again soon?
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Hi sweetheart! 🙂 Well, I can’t be bright and breezy all the time and actually this walk fit very well with how I was feeling at the time, just after Lisa had gone home. Yes- 2 years of weary legs 🙂 🙂 I do enjoy hosting this! I’m off to the Algarve next Wednesday, Pauline, just briefly, and then to Poland with Dad for 2 weeks. Not sure exactly when I’ll be posting after next Monday, but I’ll keep everyone informed.
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Makes me restless just imagining it. Take care Blogging Buddy and I look forward to seeing your posts whenever you can fit them in.
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Thanks, Jo, for two years of inspiring walks filled with gorgeous photographs! I love seeing the seals reclaim their native lands! Happy hiking 😀
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Many thanks to you, Maryann, for keeping me company and for your kind thoughts. 🙂
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Marsh orchids??? Ears prick up in Warsaw! This is such a different walk from the usual ones, but you have magnificent skies and the return of seals to compensate for the intrusion of extractors and road builders.
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They don’t seem to mind the proximity of the power station at all, Meg! 🙂 Bit like the seals, really. Just us humans that find it depressing. In the sand dunes along that stretch of coast there are usually lots of wild orchids. I haven’t been for a look lately. Very wet forecast this week but I’ll fit it in if I can. Thank you so much for your lovely walk. I’ll be back in a bit for a proper look. Haven’t been home long- a trifle damp, but not miserable. 🙂 (heard from Jude briefly too 🙂 All’s well!)
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We’re bathed in sunshine today. Everyone feels joyous. Maja smiled all the way to pre-school and Jaś is waiting for birds to lay eggs. But we also enjoyed rain on Friday. Good that all’s well with Jude.
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Says she should be back online later today 🙂 🙂 Enjoy your Spring sunshine!
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It’s nice to know wildlife is thriving with all that industry around. It looks like spring is in the air, or at least some blue skies are peeking through. Hope you had a happy Easter! I need to do some backtracking now that I’ve returned from my Texas/Oklahoma trip. 🙂
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Easter was lovely, Cathy, with Lisa home. 🙂 Did you have a good time? I’ll be over to look for posts later. The weather is very hit and miss but we have had the occasional lovely Spring day.
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