My part of the north east coast of England is littered with lighthouses! The jagged coastline traditionally needed the big guys to flash a warning to passing ships. Times have changed, but the coastline remains as rugged as ever.
Souter Lighthouse was the first in the world to be designed and built specifically to use alternating electric current. The lighthouse opened in 1871, and was decommissioned in 1988. It continued as a radio navigation beacon until 1999, when it was finally closed. Today the National Trust own the property and open it to the public.
It’s only a couple of weeks since I was at Roker lighthouse, on a properly murky day. This walk heads north from there, along the cliffs to the magnificent lighthouse at Souter. There’s a long promenade backing the fine stretch of beach, perfect for galloping horses. A straggle of charming houses follow the bay. I’m tempted to take a seat.
Did you spot the fish restaurant sign? Latimers boast smoked haddock, leek and potato pasties. Noted, for later. A sign on the cliff top claims 6 and three-quarter miles to the Tyne Ferry. We won’t be going that far. The smooth expanse of beach left behind, below us rocks scatter the shoreline. Fascinating grooves and grottoes hug the cliff’s base. The potential for shipwreck is easy to see.
Ahead, in the grass, a stone circle has been formed, not unlike a maze. I don’t understand its significance, but there are old military bunkers nearby. The track is a little slippy from recent rain and, peering at the rock formations below, I lose my footing. No damage done! But, looking at the seat of my jeans, I realise that I’m not quite presentable enough for a restaurant. I hope you weren’t looking forward to that pastie.
My favourite part of the walk lies ahead. The stacks teeter at the water’s edge, harbouring only gulls on lookout duty. A first glimpse of Souter’s flamboyant red appears on the horizon. Nearing, I can see the indentations in the rock face, and the stranded islets, clinging to shore.
And then the cove known as The Wherry. In former times there was a Lad’s Wherry and a Lassie’s Wherry, for fishing expeditions and picnics in the bay. A central rock split the bay in two. Nowadays, in part due to erosion, the sea separates the rock from the shoreline at high tide.
Souter lighthouse is about 3 miles south of the River Tyne. Beyond the river, 7 miles to the north, St. Mary’s lighthouse at Whitley Bay is a sister Victorian lighthouse to Souter. With good visibility, the one can be seen from the top of the other.
I love the sound of a foghorn but, were I married to a mariner, the sound would fill me with dread. The Souter foghorn has seen several incarnations, and is still occasionally sounded on special event days at the lighthouse.
Souter lighthouse was revolutionary. Quoting from Wikipedia, “the 800,000 candle power light was generated using carbon arcs and not an incandescent light bulb, and could be seen for up to 26 miles. In addition to the main light a red/white sector light shone from a window in the tower below the lantern, to highlight hazardous rocks to the south; it was powered using light diverted (through a set of mirrors and lenses) from the landward side of the main arc lamp.” As Souter was never automated, it remains pretty much in its original operational state. I thought that this might make a good subject for Paula’s Traces of the Past.
The grassed area north of Souter was once a thriving mining community of 700 people. It was completely demolished after the mine closure in 1968, and the population rehoused in new council housing in Whitburn. A brief history of Souter can be found on the National Trust website, along with details of opening times and how to get there.
Now I know that you will be worrying about your stomach by now. Latimers having been ruled out, I’m glad to inform you that the lighthouse has its own very pleasant cafe. Would you like to try a ‘Singing hinnie’? A warm griddle scone.
Sadly I cannot take you into the lighthouse. It was half term on my visit and very busy, I’m pleased to say. Maybe another time? You might also like my Roker Pier walk. I’m up to my second cup of coffee this morning, after a spectacular sunrise. Please put the kettle on and join me in a visit to some great blogs.
Many thanks to all of you who contributed this week. I’m really happy you can still find time to join me. For any newcomers, you can find details on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo above.
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Benches or snow? Which is it to be? Let’s start with a Gallivant in the woods!
I’ve never been to Mexico, but Jackie’s making up for me. Puerto Vallarta this week :
Amy finds the perfect bench for Jude, while I just laze on the beach!
Monday Walk : A Beach Walk and February Garden : Monochrome
I was blissfully happy with Drake this week, even wearing my gloves!
Turns out I couldn’t even say this correctly, but now I’ve had lessons from Smidge :
I just about managed to avoid getting splashed by Debbie this week :
Broadstairs to Margate : an easy coastal walk
Or absolutely drowned by Jaspa!
Rough Seas Off Land’s End, Cornwall
Wild water doesn’t seem to stop life from happening Down Under, with Pauline and Jack :
Finishing with spectacular beauty in Hawaii! I’ve told Carol I’m green 🙂
Thanks again, everyone! I love having your company. Have a great week! If you’re needing some travel inspiration, pop over to Monday Escapes. See you there!
restlessjo 
My kind of walk Jo – this lighthouse is a magnificent structure, loved the history behind it. Beautiful scenery heading to the shoreline, the rock formations are awesome. Thanks for taking us along ~
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Like some of your Maine coastline, Mary. I love the wildness 🙂
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The countryside and seascapes look very similar to parts of New Zealand! I love lighthouses. And waterfalls and viewpoints (if only those could be reached via flat trails)! Check out my “Monday Walk” on http://www.roamingabout.com/walking-and-seeing-the-real-berkshires-in-connecticut/ I finally managed to join your Monday Walk ranks! And, hopefully, there are more to come. I will certainly try…
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I know! I’ve been 🙂 Thank you very much, and please do keep em coming 🙂
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I was actually looking forward to the pasty, but Rick Stein does something similar so I’ll get one of his in the summer and I’m glad you didn’t do yourself a mischief! The red and white light house reminds me of the one at the Ilha Tavira 🙂 this really is my kind of beach, there’s even a twin for Durdle Door, and the stone circle is fab 🙂
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Hmmm, it’s a long way to come for me to get one of Rick’s, Gilly! And could I afford it if I made the effort? I quite like north east prices 🙂 If only the temperature would go up a notch or 5 🙂
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They see you coming in Padstein! But there are plenty of other attractions down here 🙂
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I do love a good lighthouse story Jo…..and that singing hinnie looks very yummy😊
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I’m still mourning the lack of pasty, Seonaid 😦 Just have to return 🙂
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Any excuse Jo😜
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I LOVE these lighthouses!
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I do too! 🙂 Happy to have your company.
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Hellooooo Jo! I had to come back for a Monday walk, and now I feel refreshed. Renewed!! Beautiful shots and wonderful background story. Next time we climb!
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We do! I climbed the other one I mention, St. Mary’s 🙂 So lovely to have you back, Elisa! Summer sojourn over? What am I saying? It’s only Spring! Hope you’ve been busy and happy 🙂
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Busy yes, but should have been busier! Happy always, or at least most of the time. So nice to be back, I look forward to catching up! 🙂
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Looks lovely Jo and such a nice weather day!
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Lucky or what? 🙂 It was perishing on the way back as the clouds rolled in, Andrew. Needed those pasties to keep our hands warm 😦
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what a charming lighthouse, Jo! and i would love to have a seat overlooking the sea! 🙂 this is such a wonderful walk and you take beautiful pictures! 🙂 thanks for taking us along!
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Such a nice spot to sit and gaze, LolaWi, but keep your coat well-buttoned 🙂 Many thanks, darlin.
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Hi Jo,
What a gorgeous coast! I’m envious. 😉 My wife and I love lighthouses. 🙂 And smoked haddock, leek and potato pastry sound yummy to me.
Have a great week,
Pit
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We’re very lucky with our coastline, Pit, and I do appreciate that. Not so lucky with the pasties! We’ll have to go back, of course. 🙂
Have a good one yourself!
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lovely photos! and I’ll be right over for a tasty toasty scone!
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Wish it was time for tea, Kathe. I’m quite peckish 🙂
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Do you know what I like most about your pictures? They are never overly photoshoped like so many others. What a beautiful place to go for a walk; I would be there all the time.
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Thank you for that 🙂 I don’t use Photoshop at all. I have very little patience with the photo editing process so what I see tends to be what you get. If I’m doing something like Jude’s photo challenge I’ll sometimes have a play. ‘Light relief’ 🙂 I’m spoilt for choice when it comes to coastline, and I love it.
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“What you see is what you get,” that’s the same with me 🙂
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Love lighthouses, it is something very mythical about them.
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We have some real beauties around here, Lena, so I’m very lucky. 🙂
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What a pleasant walk you are sharing, Jo! Thank you for taking us there. Beautiful captures!
Here is my entry for this week: https://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2016/02/29/monday-walk-selby-gardens/
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Glad to have your company, Amy 🙂 Have a happy week!
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Scones, love them.
Another wander around Puerto Vallarta.
http://www.junkboattravels.blogspot.mx/2016/02/around-puerto-vallarta.html
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Me too! Especially warm 🙂 Thanks a lot, Jackie!
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This is a great walk Jo! I also went to see a lighthouse this week, this time at St Abbs Nature Reserve in the Scottish Borders (and then for the best crab sandwiches ever!)
http://www.lovefromscotland.co.uk/St-Abbs
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Oh, good lass! I love a crab sandwich 🙂 Thanks a lot!
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So beautiful dear Johanna, I would have liked to walk there… 🙂 But Thank you, as if I walked with you too through your amazing photographs, Love, nia
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You’d need to wrap up warm, Nia, but still the scenery is beautiful 🙂 Thank you so much for joining me. 🙂
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Although the walk was wonderful, Jo, I wish I could sit on one of those chairs and listen to the ocean…like all day. 🙂 Beautiful walk!
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So long as you had a warm coat, Jill! Seriously tempting though (and Latimers is just round the corner 🙂 )
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I love the “traces of the past connection” and the opening up view really shows the stately lighthouse in it’s powerful size and was just a great opener. The horse photo is another one that really spoke to me – thanks for this lovely walk restless one. 🙂
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I was ‘brooding’ on this one for Paula and struggled a bit to make it work, Yvette, but I think it’s ok. I did my St. Mary’s lighthouse for her Thursday’s Special a long time ago now, it seems. 🙂 That horse photo is sadly wonky but I still like it. The intent expressions as they ‘steered’ the horses over the dune. One was more experienced and giving encouragement. The little stories that make a walk 🙂 Thanks for being interested, hon.
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Well thanks for the info – it is quite a unique photo too – hmmm
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Such wonderful views- I love that lighthouse! and I would love to sit in one of those adirondack chairs and watch the sea 🙂
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It’s a cracking bit of coast if you can get a sunny day. This one was a bit nippy but a swift walk back soon cured us. 🙂
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