Harbourside in Bristol
Everywhere looks better with blue skies and Bristol’s waterfront is no exception. I thought my luck had changed on the last day of my visit, as the skies turned to steely grey and the damp stuff arrived. But Bristol didn’t let me down. One cappuchino and a visit to the cathedral later, a walk along the waterfront became a distinct possibility. So, what are we waiting for?
I have to confess that the photo above was taken from on board the Bristol Packet. Everything doesn’t always go to plan, and when I turned up for a guided walking tour of the city I was told that it had been cancelled. ‘Too many people in the city’, due to the Balloon Festival, was the reason given. Nothing for it but to take to the water. No hardship there- but I digress!
Bristol’s Floating Harbour is a huge tribute to the resourcefulness of man. In 1809, 80 acres of tidal river were impounded to begin the taming of the estuary. Bristol had developed at the most downstream point at which it was possible to cross the River Avon, 6 miles inland.
The tidal range of the Bristol Channel is the second greatest of any in the world. The tide can rise and fall as much as 14 metres twice a day. This was an advantage and a disadvantage for sailing ships in the old days. They could be carried all the way to Bristol on the current, but equally well they could be stranded in the mud when the tide turned. Bristol merchants had to think of a way of damming the river, allowing the ships that were in the river to stay afloat. Thus, a ‘floating harbour’. I found a fascinating video which explains in more detail.
The cathedral is just beyond the Floating Harbour and I headed for Watershed, a good-looking building which now houses the Tourist Information Office. A series of cafes and restaurants line the harbourside, and behind these are Bristol Aquarium and the Science Centre. Plenty to do on a rainy day, and interesting exhibits outside too.
The water feature was first to attract my attention
But something interesting was going on in the background!
There was a solar energy project, and sculptures I rather liked too. Black and white, for Paula.
Rather damp to be a scribe!
The sky still a little heavy, I returned to the waterfront and continued to follow it inland. Modern and stylish apartments sit back from the promenade, interspersed with cafes and bars.
Heading around the waterfront
Life on a narrowboat?
Beside the ruins of a former mill
And in the background, the ‘SS Great Britain’
Isambard Kingdom Brunel, designer of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, was one of the engineering giants of the 19th century. At age just 27 he was chief engineer of the Great Western Railway, linking Bristol to London. He then turned his attention to trans-Atlantic travel, and his steam ship ‘The Great Western’ crossed the ocean from Bristol to New York in 1838, a journey of 15 days.
Her successor, ‘SS Great Britain’, was the world’s first iron passenger liner. At the time of her launch in 1843 she was the largest ship in the world, and had an innovative screw propeller in place of conventional paddle wheels. She had a long and illustrious career, sailing the world as a passenger ship for 30 years, before converting to cargo. Old and tired, she was finally recovered from the Falklands and returned to Bristol as a hulk in 1970. Restoration has seen her take pride of place today as a first class visitor attraction, in the dock in which she was originally built.
‘SS Great Britain’ visitor centre
Do you remember my friend, ‘On the Waterfront’?
Junction Lock Bridge leading to Cumberland Basin
Is anybody hungry?
I had promised myself a visit to ‘The Pump House’ when I passed it on my long walk home from the Balloon Festival. The building housed the original hydraulic pumping system for operating the lock gates, and is a beautiful conversion. As luck would have it the rain was starting again- the perfect excuse.
When the rain eased, I continued on towards the lock into the Avon Gorge. The current lock was opened in 1873 and can accommodate the largest ships that can navigate the Avon. From here it is 6 miles by water to the mouth of the river, where it joins the Severn estuary. Ahead you can see Clifton Suspension Bridge, but beyond this point a busy road runs close to the river, and it becomes less appealing to follow.
A tour boat passes through the lock
The logical thing to do, if you have the stamina, is to cross over the harbour and return along the opposite shore of the waterfront. You could call in at the SS Great Britain or visit the Museum of Bristol in M-Shed. The wharves here were wiped out during heavy bombing in the Blitz and this free museum tells the story of the city.
Another alternative is to catch a ferry. There are numerous ferry stops along the river, and you can travel all the way round to Temple Meads station (another Brunel wonder) if you wish. It was my last day in Bristol and I wanted to see a little more of Clifton Village, so I rather foolishly clambered back up the steep side of the gorge. Maybe we’ll have time for a look at the village another day, but for now I’m going to amble back along the quay, in my watery element.
Making the most of the sunshine
Now I’m back at my start point on St. Augustine’s Reach, named for the abbey church of St. Augustine (now Bristol Cathedral). The Reach was the course of the River Frome, diverted into this man-made trench in 1247. You will see from the Floating Harbour video that the water once continued into what is now Millenium Square and the heart of the city. I have still to mention Pero’s Bridge (a reference to an enslaved African boy) and then our walking tour is done.
And all ends peacefully
I expect you’re a little tired, but the good news is that I’m missing from the walks for two weeks so you can have a lovely rest. I hope you’ve enjoyed looking at Bristol as much as I did. And now it’s surely time to put that kettle on!
Before I go I have some more wonderful walks to share with you. Thank you so much for all the support and encouragement I receive. If you have any walks that you would like to link up, now or in the future, the details are on my Jo’s Monday walk page. Just click on the logo. Do, please!
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I think I spotted a friend on the beach at Le Havre, with thanks to Drake!
Not quite so cheery trawling a graveyard but the company is good. Cheers, Jude!
Nobody does reflection like Suzanne! Or Impressionism, come to that :
You will not believe how gorgeous these shoes are in stained glass! Thanks, Jackie!
But you can believe that when Amy posts photos of Banff they are fantastic!
Monday walk : Exploring Banff Lakes
Equally beautiful, even with a hint of snow, Ruth tiptoes along a mountain path :
Jaspa is back this week with a South American saga :
Exploring Lima’s Historic Centre on foot
And, responding magnificently to the WP weekly challenge…. thank you, Gilly!
Becky has shared a wonderful reminder of why I’m looking forward to the Algarve this week :
Thanks everybody, and that just leaves me to say that bright and early on Thursday I will be heading south. I hope to catch up with all of you before I go, and there might even be another post. Look after yourselves, happy walking and I’ll see you soon. While I’m gone you might like to try a Monday Escape?
restlessjo 
I love the narrowboat with the teeth! What fun.
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That’s one of the ferry services! Great, aren’t they? 🙂
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I love the brilliant blue whale art installation! Based on the photos and the stories shared, I think it’s clear I could get quite caught up in Bristol. Maybe someday. 🙂
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It’s a city with a lot to offer, Debra! (ooh, your Sunday name 🙂 ) I really enjoyed it!
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Beads were great, loved the statues – the boat ride would have been a favorite for me, gray skies or not. Always love your Monday walks Jo!
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I had intended to sail right through the gorge, Mary, but they were fully booked. 😦 There were ferries everywhere though, and nothing I like so much as bobbing about on boats 🙂 Thank you!
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Love Bristol Jo and your lens has captured it beautifully! In addition to being happy to see that the Shaun’s made your post, I love the Bristol Whales and all the ships! And how ’bout those tides? I sailed for 5 months in the UK in 2011 and understanding the massive tides was key to getting in and out of places and staying off sandbanks :). Enjoy your time away. I am certain that you will miss the UK but be happy to return to Algarve. By the time you return, I may be underway to New Caledonia, but will catch up with you (while enjoying a baguette) when I get there. Cheers!
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It’s the sort of city where I feel sure that something’s always happening, Lisa. It had a great feel to it, and i even liked it in the rain. 🙂 Happy and safe sailing, sweetheart! I look forward to the wonders you will have for me when I get back, but once I’m in the Algarve I forget about everywhere! 🙂
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Are you following the sheep, or are the sheep stalking you?
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You noticed! I think I’ve given them the slip now 🙂
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Oh for once, I have actually explored the waterfront at Bristol, so great to see it through your eyes! Although the whales weren’t there when I visited last. What a gorgeous day you have for your walk!
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It was a mixed bag but did end with brilliant sunshine 🙂 It must have been warm in the Cotswolds? It’s very pretty round there.
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Ooooo some more Shaun photos. What fun! I love the boat with the shark teeth decor. That should clear the canal I think. Thanks for the walk Jo. Looks like such a wonderful spot to visit.
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Those ferries were fun, Sue. I didn’t get to ride on a sharky one 😦 Actually, I didn’t get to ride anywhere much… 😦 Poor feet!
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Wonderful – ie full of wonders. I loved those beads!
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Yes- a clever idea, Viv! 🙂 Really, a great city. I enjoyed it very much 🙂 Thank you!
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Lots to see along the waterfront. The whale is wonderful. I don’t think I’d like to live on a narrowboat but I do love that photo of them. Glad you ventured out, dark skies and all. You’ve got me thinking about the places I’d like to visit right in my own area, Jo. Thanks for the inspiration.
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Oh, I would Torrie! 🙂 I’d never get bored because I could just keep moving along the river 🙂 I’d love you to join me with one of your walks. 🙂
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delicious images!
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Thanks, Kathe! Delicious place 🙂
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What a fantastic tribute to Bristol Jo. Sorry I have been lagging behind, but it is hard to keep up with a gammy foot. You have made a visit to Bristol look most desirable. I’m afraid driving through the city centre wasn’t that appealing, but as usual you find the heart of a place. I shall miss you whilst you are away sunning it up in Tavira, but I shall look forward to some new places of discovery from you on your return as you are sure to have one or two 😀
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If I can prise Michael off the beach, I will! 🙂 I have a few ‘thoughts’ and there’s a Medieval fair on at Castro Marim next weekend which should be great.
Thanks for the kind words, Jude. I thought you could have a quiet sit in the cloisters and admire the stained glass. 🙂
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Thanks for all your recent posts on Bristol. I live only 15 miles from the city but like most places when they’re local to you, I don’t very often go to visit – it reminds me that I really ought to go more regularly and with my camera.
Alison x
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Hi Alison 🙂 For some of the time I stayed with some good friends who live in Yate. They only ever go into the city to see a show so I know exactly where you’re coming from. But it really is a lovely city. 🙂
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Jo, when you work your magic you make anywhere look beautiful!
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Oh, bless you, sweetheart! That’s very kind 🙂
Will email a couple of links tonight, Gilly.
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I said something similar on one of the photos. Wherever Jo goes she finds magic!
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You just did! 🙂 I’m trying to work out which shot it was without going there. One of the whales, I presume? And thanks, ladies!
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What a fascinating walk, Jo. Thanks for braving the wet weather and taking me for lunch at The Pump House. 🙂 The Bristol Whales exhibition is very thought provoking indeed. Love those bench sculptures. They’ll also do well for Jude’s October series. Have a great trip. I’m sure you’ll come back with lots of photos. xx
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I took over 700 in 5 days in Bristol, Ad! Not expecting that many over our two weeks because I’ve taken so many before but… maybe one or two 🙂 Glad you’ve enjoyed Bristol with me.
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Bench sculptures? [head whips round and ears prick up]
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What’s your October theme? 🙂
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October? What happened to September? Surely there has to be a Tavira bench or a Polish bench? September is metal. October is people or things on benches 🙂
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It was only that Ad said my benches with sculptures would work for October. I’m just an innocent by-sitter 🙂
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She is right. They would. SHE pays attention!
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Don’t go picking on me just because I have attention deficit! It’s my advanced age 🙂
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Pffut! As.If
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“One or two.” 😕 Pigs might fly. 😀
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Thanks for taking me on that walk! 🙂
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Thanks for your good company, Pit 🙂
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lovely waterfront walk, Jo! bristol has plenty to offer, lots of interest and charming spots abound. the bristol whales exhibit is awesome! enjoyed it very much! thanks! 🙂
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You just never know what you’re going to find around a corner, do you, LolaWi? Bristol was an excellent place for surprises 🙂 Thanks for your company!
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The waterfront is so beautiful, Jo. Thank you so much for taking us along, I really this relaxing and pleasant waterfront walk. Thank you, Jo. 🙂 Here is my entry: https://shareandconnect.wordpress.com/2015/08/24/monday-walk-castle-in-the-wilderness-part-2/
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Hi Amy 🙂 I seem to get later! I obviously need some time off to get up to speed again 🙂
I thoroughly enjoyed Bristol and it’s been a pleasure to share. Many thanks for your walk!
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I am really enjoying these weekly walks!
Here’s mine – http://www.junkboattravels.blogspot.ca/2015/08/mondays-walk.html
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Thank you very much, Jackie 🙂 I worry a bit that they’re too long but there always seems to be so much to see.
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I must visit Bristol again sometime! The whale exhibit is moving and makes the point about plastic very effectively. Have a great break.
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I keep reading worrying things about plastic bottles too. What a world this is! But we can be so resourceful and amazing when we put our minds to it 🙂 Thank you!
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