Jo’s Monday walk : Whitby in Winter

In short supply, the winter sun sets over Whitby harbour

In short supply, the winter sun sets over Whitby harbour

I’ve taken you walking along the Whitby cliff tops in summer time, but winter can be a very different proposition. Yet I was amazed at how many people thronged the narrow cobbled streets, leading to Whitby Abbey, on New Year’s Eve day this year.

It was bitterly cold, but I expected the numerous steps around Whitby would soon warm me up. And on such a day, fish and chips would be almost compulsory.  Anyone fancy joining me?

James Cook has a beautiful, if chilly, view

James Cook has a beautiful, if chilly, view

The road across the York Moors had the merest dusting of snow- delicious and crisp, though I don’t know if the sheep would be impressed.  I didn’t stop to ask.  Stepping out of the car on West Cliff, the air was bitingly brisk.  The good news, though, was that parking, often scarce in this town, was free of charge until the end of March.

My destination was St. Mary’s Church, clearly visible on the cliff top across the bay.  That meant either steps down, a meandering road downward, or a combination of the two, and then steps up the other side. I paused for breath, and to admire the view, alongside the statue of James Cook, who served his apprenticeship in the town.  HMS Endeavour, commanded by Captain Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby, in 1764.

I started down the steps from the Whalebone Arch, symbolic of the town’s whaling past.  A ‘halooo’ in the ‘Screaming’ tunnel, allegedly associated with Bram Stoker’s Dracula, just had to be done.  Childish, I know!  If ghost walks are your idea of fun, it’s possible to tour the town with a guide who will point out all the Dracula connections.

The iconic Whalebone Arch
Looking out from the ‘Screaming’ tunnel

Through the tunnel, the steps continue on down, winding between the backs of houses until you reach the quayside. Easy going from here, as you make for the Swing Bridge.

The Swing Bridge spans the River Esk

The Swing Bridge spanning the River Esk

There are plenty of shops and cafes to distract you in the cobbled streets beyond the bridge, but inevitably you will arrive at the foot of 199 steps.  The Abbey, and St. Mary’s Church, await on the cliff top above.  Take your time.  It doesn’t matter if someone overtakes you.  There is space, and opportunity, to loiter and enjoy the view of Whitby harbour down below.  Fill your pockets with goodies from Justin’s before you start.  It might help!

Justin's can tempt at any time of year

Justin’s can tempt at any time of year

And take your mind off the climb
But soon you’ll be looking down

You may think I’m a sadist dragging you up here, but there is a purpose.  Originally the Church Stairs were wooden steps leading to St. Mary’s.  The church can be reached by road, by a circuitous route, but more often a coffin would be carried up the steps for burial in the churchyard.  There are resting places to make this an easier passage.

Our journey today is not so sad.  I’m climbing the steps to see the Christmas trees donated to St. Mary’s by local businesses each December.  Schools take part as well, and it is a lovely enterprise. I noticed this year a Prayer tree where you can tie on a shred of ribbon to leave your personal prayer.  My Six word Saturday featured many of the tree decorations so here I’ll concentrate more on the church.

There was a lovely atmosphere as people came and went, and the volunteers shared their knowledge of the church, some of which dates from the 12th century.  The link will give you much more information.  Meantime, I had a rendezvous with the pier in mind.  The decision whether to have your fish and chips before or after is up to you.  I should tell you that Rick Stein favours The Magpie Cafe, over on Pier Street, but I have a preference for Hadleys, which is just around the corner from here, at 11 Bridge St.

At the bottom of Church Stairs there is a right hand turn into Henrietta St., a row of fishermen’s cottages.  If you follow it past the Smoke House, where you might catch the delicious aroma of smoking fish, it will take you down steeply to one arm of the pier.  This is the point at which you will need that warm hat!

Access to the pier is a little steep

The steep descent to the pier

Beware people doing a crazy dance

Beware people doing a crazy dance (to keep warm?)

And turn your attention to the view

And turn your attention to the view

The sun is starting to set so you don’t have long
You can see right into the estuary
Spot a fossil or two
Or look out to Saltwell Nab

Or look out to Saltwell Nab

I think it must be time to go

But I think it must be time to go

Retrace your steps to the Swing Bridge and you will see a narrow street ahead of you, rising towards the West Cliff. It’s a little steep for the first few yards, but then you can distract yourself by looking in the shop windows as you follow the gentle curve back around to the car park.

NB. You can walk out along the other arm of the pier, which is less strenuous but just as chilly!

I hope you have enjoyed our outing today.  I know some of you will have seen parts of this walk before, but I thought that it was a story worth telling.  As time goes by I will probably need to revisit a few old haunts, but they look different as the seasons change.  I will try to keep them fresh for you.

walking logo

Over the festive season, people have been too busy to do much walking, but I’m happy to say that I still have some walks to share with you.  If you’d like to share a walk in the future, that would be great!  My Jo’s Monday walk page gives you the details, or you can just click on the logo.

Extra special thanks to my contributors this week.  Let me just pop that kettle on and we’ll  start.

It was so peaceful with Jude this week, I was compelled to sit a while.  Yes, even me! :

Garden Portrait : Harmony and Balance

Meanwhile, Drake has excelled himself, again!  Don’t miss his beautiful mill in Samso :

The Walking Mill

Gilly has a gentle riverside walk for us and you’ll love it!

Strolling the Byes

Anyone chased their grandbaby round a zoo lately? And in the heat of the day, too!  Thanks a lot, Rosemay  :

Zoo tales from Perth 

Hope to see you all out walking again next week.  Till then, take care!

127 comments

  1. Beautiful images, beautiful skies and a beautiful place. Like Oscar Wilde I can resist everything but tempataion so I know on this walk I would have to pop into Justin’s to stock up on fudge. 😉

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  2. It’s nice to revisit favorite places in different seasons. I agree. A lovely walk and the stairs didn’t bother me a bit. Rather enjoyed them. 🙂 I chuckled at the fact parking is free for the winter. No such luck here. Is that hubby jumping?

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    1. Glad you enjoyed a few steps, Lynne 🙂 Yes, Mick often flaps his arms about in an annoying fashion when I’m trying to take an inspiring shot 🙂 I have to humour him!

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  3. Ahh…hello Jo, a day late but what a wait, a brisk, refreshing and thoroughly interesting walk as I knew it would be, especially as you know how much I adore Whitby and the Abbey. But…never have been there on a cold, winter’s day so this was a real treat to take it all in through your always lovely pics. Would love some of that fudge from Justin’s and love the Christmas trees and the darling fishing boat dec. I have a few little wooden boats in my summerhouse. And fish & chips sound perfect…as you will see from my upcoming walk 🙂 But for now, you and I can settle for a nice cuppa can’t we… have a lovely day 🙂

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    1. Hi Sherri 🙂 Had one of those all too necessary ‘jobs’ day, but here I am with a cuppa and an eye on the TV as Rafa is on soon (a bit scary watching him at the minute, but he’s getting there, and it’s just great to see him again). Many thanks for your lovely company. Look forward to walking with you soon 🙂

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    1. We live on a good bit of coast, Nicole, and not far from the Moors so there are some nice choices. We also have heavy industry near at hand but I don’t tend to point the camera in that direction so often 🙂 This particular walk is about an hour’s drive from home and is about the furthest away of those I have featured lately (unless you count the Algarve 🙂 )

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  7. Yes! Captain Cook was why I went to Whitby. I remember now. 🙂 Well, I also went to see the Parish Church and the Abbey, of course. Just as well I’d already seen them because you left me behind. I didn’t quite make it out of Justin’s.

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      1. Your BBC article link was immensely helpful, thank you! I had always thought Stoker visited Transylvania and heard stories about Dracula there, but turns out Whitby was his true muse and source of information! So we have to thank Whitby library without which there would be no Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

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  11. It’s strange how you can sense the temperature in a photo! yet another lovely walk Jo and I bet the fish is wonderfully fresh up there 🙂 Thanks for putting my link, you are a dear!

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      2. I have an aunt who lives in Dawlish (originally from the north east) but I haven’t seen her for many years. I holidayed down there once when I was young, around Torquay, but I don’t remember much. I always intended to come and see the Eden Project but we haven’t made it yet…

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  12. A great walk, Joanne. The cold never used to bother me much when we lived in New York. But now, having lived in Las Vegas for almost 16 years, my blood has thinned out. We had temperatures in the 40’s last week and I was cold. Still, I’d like to take that walk one day. It looks beautiful. And nicely deserted!

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    1. The thought of living in Vegas rather frightens me, Emilio, and not just for the temperatures 🙂 But it does give you access to some beautiful places- all of them warm! Whitby was actually much busier than I expected but the sensible people were in the cafes and shops 🙂 Thank you very much for walking with me. Have a great week!

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      1. What frightens you about Las Vegas? As I’ve mentioned before we rarely go down to the strip and the neighborhoods have regular people. I mean, I wouldn’t want to raise kids here. But otherwise it hasn’t been too bad!

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      2. I forget that it has a ‘regular’ side too 🙂 I’m just not a fan of crowds and urban sprawl. Nothing about Vegas has ever appealed to me other than access to the Canyon, but we all have to live and work somewhere 🙂

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      3. Well, sounds like it might be time to take you for a walk around our neighborhood! It’s not scary at all, except for our next door neighbor and a guy who lives a block away! And we’re in a community where all the homes look alike. Other than that, it’s typical, I think. But we are not great fans of Las Vegas, either, and plan to move as soon as circumstances permit!

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  16. A wonderful walk Jo but it does look a wee chilly. I’m all for going up the stairs to keep warm. Love the dance going on on the pier. 🙂 Now tell me did you meet Dracula?

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    1. For someone who likes a New Year’s dip, Sue, it would be a doddle! 🙂 Mick says you can come and dance with us anytime. And, no- it was daylight. I made sure I was gone when it got dark 🙂

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